Thank you for showing each step in great detail! There's a million videos about cabinet building in the shop, but installer videos are harder to find on youtube. Thank you for this.
Great job - one thing to make it a bit better?? RABBIT. Builders and Craftsmen often forget about who comes after them. In this case - the painters. When projects are built flush to a painted surface more than likely over time with repeated paintings of the abutting surface, that edge is going to start to look like crap. To avoid this - I cut a thin rabbit in the pieces that are going flush against a wall. This allows the tip of the paint brush to get in between the project and the painted surface and leave a super neat line with repeated painting for decades to come. The rabbit won't even be appreciated by the eye as it will appear to be more of a thin dark shadow. I do this with all door and widow moldings I install too. I put a rabbit (about 1/8 inch) along the back outer edge of the piece for painting. Just let the home owner know what you are doing so that they can appreciate the extra convenience you provided to them when they go to paint in the future. Plus - your work is going to continue to look great for years to come. I wish they would sell moldings with this feature already included.
Hey youngster, nice work! Old timey cabinet maker here. Toe kicks are for cabinets at which you will perform some kind of work. Think kitchen countertop or bathroom vanity. Toe kicks allow you to get closer and more comfortable to the work. That’s a storage cabinet: no need for a toe-kick and to this old guy it looks kind of odd. Yeah, it’s nit-picky but something to keep in mind.
I definitely appreciate the feedback, sir! In this situation, it felt most appropriate to match the design of the existing vanity in the bathroom. It was also a decision of the client as well, but I will definitely keep that in mind!
True craftsmanship. It's very nice, especially with caulk-less side pieces. It's just enjoyable to watch. Your video editing is very nice just like your woodworking. :D Thank you.
Soo so nice. Installing and scribing to those tolerances in an enclosed space is super difficult. If you've never done it, you just don't know. Many TH-camrs who cover scribing get to a 1/16", caulk and call it a day .. and rarely show a closeup at the end. Granted some have high volume and just cannot afford this level of detail but they don't tell you that, nor how disappointing the final result really comes out to be. Love the tricks -- tape + razor, double domino, no-clamp or nailer CA glue install. With a tight fit, I imagine the dominos can remain flexed and keep the filler pressured to the wall .. as would those tight rails. I also settled on tracksaw and sander as the best method to cut for me. Some of my tips: after years of chasing perfect no-gaps-at-all scribes, I find that just breaking the scribed edge with some sandpaper to give it a hairline shadow reveal produces a better result as it blends the tight spots with the loose ones. Even white on white because caulking the hairline comes out better. And sometimes too tight is bad - e.g. shelves creaking when flexed - so a back bevel with a broken edge and a few layers of paper to space it off the wall when installing .. no creaking and a tiny line to caulk. Your clients are so lucky to get someone who cares .. also rare. Can't wait to see more. :)
Wow thanks so much for that response and for the tip! That’s a good point about breaking the edge to blend the tight spots, will definitely give that a go next time!
That was a great demonstration of scribing to the space, as I’m always a bit intimidated by that skill. The big butt turning the light off made me laugh at the beginning and finishing the video with that was a bonus chuckle. Thx
That’s an interesting idea, you’re right about that. I wonder if it will bother me seeing the exposed part of the cleat on the side when the doors are opened. I’ll definitely try that in the future. Thanks!
@@paxwoodworking This is why the domino thing is cool but could be done differently since you can't really pack it out without making the fillers 1/8" thicker which is also an option with the domino. I make filler and sub filler. The subfiller is narrower as it does not need to touch the wall. After my scribe I attach the subfiller and filler together from behind and attach the subfiller to the cabinet behind where the hinges would go thru the box holding that 1/8 proud so the doors flush with the filler
@@paxwoodworking I use the same material as the faces so it's not an issue. If you are using solid, you can mill the fillers an 1/8" thicker than the doors and get the same result.
Looks great! New subscriber here! Scribing does wonders when the walls aren't perfect. Your method seems very efficient and well thought out. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and talent.
Very nice job! I always use the U Scribe Jig to scribe the fillers. That's the same principle as your way. Only your way works better with wider fillers i think. The U Scribe Jig is not strong enough then. Next time i'll try it your way. Thanks for sharing!
How are you measuring how far back to set the scribed piece so that it not only is scribed to the wall correctly but the other side is also perfectly flush with the cabinet? Hopefully that question makes sense. I guess if you offset it an inch, and then use an inch block to scribe, for example, then it should finish at the right place. I think I just answered my own question and figured out something I've been pondering on for a bit. 😆
This is the whole trick, but it goes by quick! There are two rows of mortises (dominoes) in the back of the filler strips. One will hold the strip in the final position flush with the edge of the cabinet, and the other is offset by a known distance, which is used with dry-fit loose tenons to hang the strip while scribing with a block sized to match the offset.
Ideally that would be nice, but I didn’t have access to the same countertop that was in the bathroom. However, that would also waste a lot of stone just to see an inch and a half of it.
That's the way to do it!!! My neighbor payed a trim carp a ton of money to put a bookcase in a nook like that. The made the face frame 1/8" less that the closest point of the walls and THEN USED A FILLER STRIP to cover the gaps. Its ugly as the devil
Nice job ! One of my pet peeves is using boards with a lot of cathedral grain especially when it is being stained. The face sawn grain next to nice straight grain doesn’t look good imo. Wonder what your thoughts are ?
Did you for the doors to cabinets to the cabinets onsite or at the shop? Meaning, did you drill for the hinge plates onsite or at the shop? I’ve tried fitting them before install and I swear they never fit right.
Good question, I’ve had the same problem and have done it both ways as well. Blum makes a small mounting template for their hinges and that works well, but you have to measure the distance between the center points of the hinges along with even spacing on top and bottom. A metric tape measure helps for this type of thing.
@@paxwoodworkingthanks for the reply. I have the jig for drilling the hinge plate holes but don’t no about any jig for lining them up. I need to check that out. Thanks so much for the info.
You could scribe the faceplate to match the slope of the floor then use shims and whatnot to level the actual box. Since the box itself is covered it doesnt matter too much
Depending on the situation, a full back panel isn’t always necessary. If the cabinet is fully exposed with no doors, then there should one (e.g. bookshelves). Some situations a set of cleats will do and this situation is one of those times.
Just to save material next time you do not even need to make the counter top. Make a finished 2x6 basically for the front and just 2 or 3 blocks same thickness for the back. Obviously you need to measure the reveal instead of just pushing it to the back wall but that is 2 seconds
That’s not true. We Europeans work in millimetres-way more accurate than feet and inches. As for the hinges-they are easily adjusted and don’t ‘just’ happen to fall out of line…it’s a doddle to tweak them into alignment. Stop your bitchin’
Thank you for showing each step in great detail! There's a million videos about cabinet building in the shop, but installer videos are harder to find on youtube. Thank you for this.
My thoughts exactly. Thanks and glad you enjoyed it!
Great job - one thing to make it a bit better?? RABBIT.
Builders and Craftsmen often forget about who comes after them. In this case - the painters. When projects are built flush to a painted surface more than likely over time with repeated paintings of the abutting surface, that edge is going to start to look like crap. To avoid this - I cut a thin rabbit in the pieces that are going flush against a wall. This allows the tip of the paint brush to get in between the project and the painted surface and leave a super neat line with repeated painting for decades to come. The rabbit won't even be appreciated by the eye as it will appear to be more of a thin dark shadow.
I do this with all door and widow moldings I install too. I put a rabbit (about 1/8 inch) along the back outer edge of the piece for painting. Just let the home owner know what you are doing so that they can appreciate the extra convenience you provided to them when they go to paint in the future. Plus - your work is going to continue to look great for years to come. I wish they would sell moldings with this feature already included.
That’s a really interesting point that I haven’t thought of before. Thanks for sharing!
Custom cabinetry upgrades a house instantly. You did an excellent job on these, they look so nice, Thanks for sharing.
Appreciate that, thank you!
Hey youngster, nice work! Old timey cabinet maker here. Toe kicks are for cabinets at which you will perform some kind of work. Think kitchen countertop or bathroom vanity. Toe kicks allow you to get closer and more comfortable to the work. That’s a storage cabinet: no need for a toe-kick and to this old guy it looks kind of odd. Yeah, it’s nit-picky but something to keep in mind.
I definitely appreciate the feedback, sir! In this situation, it felt most appropriate to match the design of the existing vanity in the bathroom. It was also a decision of the client as well, but I will definitely keep that in mind!
@ customer is always right…no matter what they want!
Beautifully done. You always make it look easy, too.
Thanks for watching!
True craftsmanship. It's very nice, especially with caulk-less side pieces. It's just enjoyable to watch. Your video editing is very nice just like your woodworking. :D Thank you.
Soo so nice. Installing and scribing to those tolerances in an enclosed space is super difficult. If you've never done it, you just don't know. Many TH-camrs who cover scribing get to a 1/16", caulk and call it a day .. and rarely show a closeup at the end. Granted some have high volume and just cannot afford this level of detail but they don't tell you that, nor how disappointing the final result really comes out to be. Love the tricks -- tape + razor, double domino, no-clamp or nailer CA glue install. With a tight fit, I imagine the dominos can remain flexed and keep the filler pressured to the wall .. as would those tight rails. I also settled on tracksaw and sander as the best method to cut for me. Some of my tips: after years of chasing perfect no-gaps-at-all scribes, I find that just breaking the scribed edge with some sandpaper to give it a hairline shadow reveal produces a better result as it blends the tight spots with the loose ones. Even white on white because caulking the hairline comes out better. And sometimes too tight is bad - e.g. shelves creaking when flexed - so a back bevel with a broken edge and a few layers of paper to space it off the wall when installing .. no creaking and a tiny line to caulk. Your clients are so lucky to get someone who cares .. also rare. Can't wait to see more. :)
Wow thanks so much for that response and for the tip! That’s a good point about breaking the edge to blend the tight spots, will definitely give that a go next time!
Great job
My grandfather was a master cabinet maker from England.
Very interesting. Ive never seen that method with the spaced out dominos on the face frame. That is so nifty!
It’s a very satisfying trick, definitely recommend trying it out!
Looks amazing!
Thanks!
Great job bro. I love the explanation for the faux countertop. I like to miter the face but your method is cool too!!
Thanks man!
BEAUTIFUL! Thank you for sharing this project.
That was a great demonstration of scribing to the space, as I’m always a bit intimidated by that skill. The big butt turning the light off made me laugh at the beginning and finishing the video with that was a bonus chuckle. Thx
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks!
2:44 looks like you need a new or adjusted zero clearance insert.
These cabinets look stunning!
super work, as always!
Thank you! Always appreciate the support!
Beautiful work Sir. My son wants to build a wall of bookshelves with a Murphy door in them. Your work is inspiring.
Thank you! That would be great project! Murphy Door hardware or Invisidor Hardware both work well for that type of job.
Beautiful work!!
Great looking cabinets! I am working a closet built in and I'm going to use the double domino idea to scribe the sides.
Awesome! I think you’ll enjoy the process. Definitely a satisfying feeling!
Nicely done, every homeowner would like that.
Looks great. Thank you.
nice work nice video thanx rick
Solid video with good information. I do closet systems and have to deal with wavy walls most daily.
Nice! 👍
Looks great.
nice work
Great video. Thanks for posting
Very nice!
That is lovely work!
Thanks!
Looks really good. I hate the separator in the middle of the cabinet doors. I do not have it in my cabinets. Makes using the cabinets much better.
Nice cuts! If you push the cleats that the fillers are attached to forward by an 1/8", your fillers will be flush with your doors.
That’s an interesting idea, you’re right about that. I wonder if it will bother me seeing the exposed part of the cleat on the side when the doors are opened. I’ll definitely try that in the future. Thanks!
@@paxwoodworking This is why the domino thing is cool but could be done differently since you can't really pack it out without making the fillers 1/8" thicker which is also an option with the domino. I make filler and sub filler. The subfiller is narrower as it does not need to touch the wall. After my scribe I attach the subfiller and filler together from behind and attach the subfiller to the cabinet behind where the hinges would go thru the box holding that 1/8 proud so the doors flush with the filler
@@paxwoodworking I use the same material as the faces so it's not an issue. If you are using solid, you can mill the fillers an 1/8" thicker than the doors and get the same result.
Looks great! New subscriber here! Scribing does wonders when the walls aren't perfect. Your method seems very efficient and well thought out. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and talent.
Appreciate that! Thanks for watching :)
I liked the kick base design.
Very nice job! I always use the U Scribe Jig to scribe the fillers. That's the same principle as your way. Only your way works better with wider fillers i think. The U Scribe Jig is not strong enough then. Next time i'll try it your way. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks! I’ve got the U Scribe as well, though I haven’t actually used it yet. I’m sure I’ll come around to a time when I will though.
Great video+explanation+presentation! Thank you for sharing! Well done mate - NEW SUB 🙏🏻
Appreciate that, thanks!
Beautiful job!
Thank you!
Nice job!👍🏻
Thanks!
Great work!
Good job dude;).
Very Nice!
Lowell
Great video, thanks!!
Really nice work good sir
Great Job Nicely Done 🔨🪚📐📝
Thanks!
Very nice
Two big drawers at bottom would like nice too.
Sure thing. I’ll have some drawers in my next video!
How are you measuring how far back to set the scribed piece so that it not only is scribed to the wall correctly but the other side is also perfectly flush with the cabinet? Hopefully that question makes sense. I guess if you offset it an inch, and then use an inch block to scribe, for example, then it should finish at the right place. I think I just answered my own question and figured out something I've been pondering on for a bit. 😆
This is the whole trick, but it goes by quick! There are two rows of mortises (dominoes) in the back of the filler strips. One will hold the strip in the final position flush with the edge of the cabinet, and the other is offset by a known distance, which is used with dry-fit loose tenons to hang the strip while scribing with a block sized to match the offset.
very nice
sharp. Another way I would go would be to use the same counter as the vanity for the shelf instead of wood. :)
Ideally that would be nice, but I didn’t have access to the same countertop that was in the bathroom. However, that would also waste a lot of stone just to see an inch and a half of it.
That's the way to do it!!! My neighbor payed a trim carp a ton of money to put a bookcase in a nook like that. The made the face frame 1/8" less that the closest point of the walls and THEN USED A FILLER STRIP to cover the gaps. Its ugly as the devil
nice work, except you could have cleaned the floor at 4:20 before installing the cabinet.
Do you have more information about your shop building?
Sure do! My next video is planned to be a shop story video, so be sure to check back.
Looking forward to it.
Nice job ! One of my pet peeves is using boards with a lot of cathedral grain especially when it is being stained.
The face sawn grain next to nice straight grain doesn’t look good imo.
Wonder what your thoughts are ?
It is also reversed…as in face grain in the door next to straight grain in the face frame.
Outstanding
what do you use for a scribe?
Typically I use a block of 3/4 " ply and a knife or razor blade against the block to score the wood.
Did you for the doors to cabinets to the cabinets onsite or at the shop? Meaning, did you drill for the hinge plates onsite or at the shop? I’ve tried fitting them before install and I swear they never fit right.
Good question, I’ve had the same problem and have done it both ways as well. Blum makes a small mounting template for their hinges and that works well, but you have to measure the distance between the center points of the hinges along with even spacing on top and bottom. A metric tape measure helps for this type of thing.
@@paxwoodworkingthanks for the reply. I have the jig for drilling the hinge plate holes but don’t no about any jig for lining them up. I need to check that out. Thanks so much for the info.
Very nice detailed video..
Just one question isn't more easy with adjustable legs instead of the toe kick base?
I guess you can do that. There’s so many ways to do toe kicks whether integrated or separate like I did here.
@paxwoodworking the way you did the fillers was awesome by using the same thickness of the cabinet box
How would you make the toekick box if your floor is extremely sloped?
You could scribe the faceplate to match the slope of the floor then use shims and whatnot to level the actual box. Since the box itself is covered it doesnt matter too much
I can tell you're a "maker." Nice technique, old as the hills.
What should someone expect to pay to have this done?
Why no back panel?
Depending on the situation, a full back panel isn’t always necessary. If the cabinet is fully exposed with no doors, then there should one (e.g. bookshelves). Some situations a set of cleats will do and this situation is one of those times.
I learned this from Norm Abram years ago. Everyone should watch "The New Yankee Workshop" since Norm is the OG and everything else is derivative.
Just to save material next time you do not even need to make the counter top. Make a finished 2x6 basically for the front and just 2 or 3 blocks same thickness for the back. Obviously you need to measure the reveal instead of just pushing it to the back wall but that is 2 seconds
That’s a good point. This is the first time I’ve done that method, wasn’t perfect, but I like your suggestion, thanks!
I really hate European style hinges. They are always going out of alignment. They are for lazy cabinetmakers.
That’s not true. We Europeans work in millimetres-way more accurate than feet and inches. As for the hinges-they are easily adjusted and don’t ‘just’ happen to fall out of line…it’s a doddle to tweak them into alignment. Stop your bitchin’
I prefer to make with WoodPrix plans.
I’ll have to check that out. Thanks!