Thanks to Jerad → www.youtube.com/@NeevesKnives/featured for contributing some knives and commentary for this, and future videos! Check the description for links to his channel and things mentioned in this video😉 Thanks Friends!
The Veneve 3x8 regular and Dragon are available in Europe and the Poltava resin bonded, and metal bonded. If you are willing to wait about a week for shipping (could be only a few days also depending on the carrier).
I own Venev, Nanawa, Columbia Gorge and Poltava. Venev, very good. Nanawa, better, but more expensive. Columbia Gorge too soft to use edge on. Poltava Metal Matrix CBN, Vastly superior to any of them. There is olne other, the BBB Stones but at 400 bucks +, and mostly obtainium. out of the uunning. Jerad of Neeve's Knives just tested the Poltava CBN and found the same. KnifeMaker/Medically Retired after over 47+ Years in the Craft and in association with the orginial Loveless Shop
Go to wisemancompany and search for the fang or 5x5 combat solutions and you can get pocket flippers for the manix 2. I have both and highly prefer the fang over 5x5
@@OUTDOORS55 yeah, kinda know why John quit. He was the first person I interacted with on TH-cam. U were the 2nd, and I still follow both of u and OCD4edc, Jered, and ZACH for ur content. Others I followed when first gettin into knives and sharpening to absorb as much info as possible. BTW John steered me to have a look at the Benchmade 940…and basically killed the knife search/search addiction. And yes I have 4 940s 🤣
Regarding the grit: As indicated by the F in front of the grit number, it's in the FEPA (Federation of European Producers of Abrasives) grit system. Most sharpening stones are in the japanese JIS grit system, you can find conversion tables online. It is not just times 3! A few examples: 150 FEPA = 150 JIS = 82 micron 320 FEPA = 600 JIS = 30 micron 400 FEPA = 1000 JIS = 17 micron 1000 FEPA = 3000 JIS = 5 micron 1200 FEPA = 4000 JIS = 3 micron 1500 FEPA =6000 JIS = 2 micron 2000 FEPA = 8000 JIS = 1.2 micron
Venev industrial diamonds is located in Russia. You can't get them easily because of sanctions. You need parallel import in your country with 3rd party to get theese and "licensed" as 3rd coundry production to avoid sanctions. It is basically counterfeit as it is because US citizens are prohibited to buy ANY made in Russia good. That's also the reason why Shirogorov knives are very rare to see in US. UPD: I live in Russia and i can buy theese stones for like 24 dollars a piece.
They are available thru Grit O Matic. I have switched to Poltava CBN Metal Matrix stones which are a 3mm mixture of copper and tin. (Bronze) and are cutting much faster and cleaner than the Veneve which I have a good selection of. Even with a lot of use they will last a lifetime. ;
@@cecuca1548961 Yes they do, but only in the very coarse grits. I have complete sets by both companies and the difference in cutting performance is unreal. Also the Veneve is diamond only whereas the Poltava is Diamond or CBN. The abrasive concentration is also much higher in the Poltava with a broader selection of grits. Veneve skipps from 400 to 800 which in Jis scale is actually 1000 and 3000 where as Poltava I have are much more well spaced. I use 80-100-235-335-550-650-1500-3000 JIS All in copper/Tin Matrix (and are developing a new matrix that is going to be a game changer).They also have much higher grits are offered but I don't use higher with sones. Only stropping paste which they have in both water and oil base. Poltava is the originator of the Matrix stones and have been doing them for decades. Sadly, only available in Europe until now. The make their own CNB Grits in which they are the largest industrial maker of CBN Abrasives in the World. (They are a manufacturer of Industrial Aerospace quality of Diamond and CBN machining tools). Veneve is a tiny company in comparison and rather new to the game. I find that CBN cuts faster and smoother with much better feel and gives an outstanding finish and requires no water/lube on them which is a huge win especially when using a fixed angle sharpener which is much cleaner. It is also cleaner hand sharpening but really shines for fixed angle sharpeners. Poltava has just opened a warehouse here in the U.S. with NO issues getting anything you want. No sanctions! Veneve is getting harder (Near impossible) and harder to find. Which is a shame as I do like their products. ;
Can you do a hardness test of Spyderco manix 2 maxament? Really interested to see that. Claims to be 67-68 Rockwell. Also would love your thoughts on it.. Great content as always best knife channel on TH-cam keep it up 👍
To each their own but I close my back lock spydies with one hand. Thumb on the lock, index finger as far up on the handle as you can and just let it drop. The choil lands on your index fingers and you close it the rest of the way, whether that's pivoting the knife in your hand and finish closing with your index finger or just flick it shut the rest of the way.
I’ve encountered that problem and solved it by grinding the internal “heel” of the blade. This acts as a stop bumper when closed. Grind it a bit and the blade will close further without messing with spine of the blade.
Hey Alex, I just wanted to thank you very much! I was able to learn how to sharpen my knives on your videos. Even more important, I was able to overcome the learning plateau and now I can feel if my angle is correct. For me you wrist fixing advises were the most useful and required the most of my attention! Thank you! :)
Great vid! I have been really liking a lot of Spyderco lock backs lately. They don't close as easily as the compression lock or ball bearing locks but I have really gotten used to the way they close and can do them one handed. It just takes for me to be aware of where my fingers are placed in the path of the blade. I try to get them up high as close to the riccaso as possible so that part of the blade will fall onto my knuckle rather than a sharpened portion, then I'm able to reach the blade and close it the rest of the way, all with one hand. When you get used to it it's actually kind of fun. It has its own fidget character that I have learned to love
Single-handed opening/closing is the most important thing for me as well in any tool knife, as my other hand would be often occupied by whatever I'm cutting like cardboard, twine, or whatnot.
Spyderco's midlock is really easy to one hand open and close once you get used to it. My opinion may be different because while I have owned a few larger examples, I only regularly carried the delicas, matriarch, and my favorite summer lightweight won't pull my shorts down knife the calypso Jr super blue. Which BTW is pinned construction, extremely light, holds a great edge and is pretty easy to open, close, sharpen, hone, and strop.
Alex I'm glad you pointed out the problem we lefty’s have in a right handed world. I fully agree that a how a knife closes safely..is just as, if not more important than how it opens. Liner locks and back locking knives are the bane of my existence! 😆 Cheers from Nova Scotia…MikeR.
indeed. Lefty on right handed world is some sort of upside down living. I'm 33, but i still have troubles with scissors, liner locked pocket knives, and a gun's safety flags. When I saw Alex, the left handed Spyderco fan, i thought "This man has the same trouble. Watch how he solve 'em"
M4 was my favorite steel for years. Today, K390 is my favorite. I'm older than you ( much older), and I carried a Buck 110 for years, so I have no problem closing a back-lock pocket knife with one hand.😊
The Endura 4 in zdp-189 has been my edc for two years and as long as you move your index finger high enough on the frame you can pretty easily close it one handed without injury to your finger.
I drop all my mid backlock spydercos to my finger against the choil on the stretch 2 or the flat at the ricaso as long as they're broken in enough to drop, then move my fingers and pointer finger slap it closed. Being lefty and buying knives for 40 years has put me in the position that I only buy stuff I want and that functions well left handed. I prefer lefty CRK's or ambi locks for sure, now.
Oh, the Venev Stones... Wow... Just wow... I am pleasantly surprised that those are selling in USA and are getting some love in the USA. Those are Russian made by "Venev Industrial Diamonds" factory. They are made for special hand sharpening machines, but work for hand sharpening too. Here in Russia I have bought the 7/5 one for 40 USD.
Its also surprising for me why anyone in USA would buy a products made in terrorist state also known as russia. Why sponsor terrorist, murder and rapist?
I guess we all go through changing seasons of preferences. At one point we probably swore by back locks and how sturdy they were, then suddenly found ourselves spending silly money on compression locks, only to spend even more silly money on button locks, then somehow craved stability and became fix bladers and we cleared out our drawers only to rediscover our first love for slip joints. Ahh... the struggles of knifers.
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Absolutely love your channel. You tought me how to sharpen a knive and how to understand properly burr removal. Thanks for everything and lotsa love from Sweden. You da king 👑
Yes the button or slide button loacks are very easy for drop closure but mid locks and frame locks are also super easy is you depress the lock to disengage and then simply push the back of the blade closed against anything you wish such as the pocket. leg or whatever. A little practice and its quick, safe and very simple
Someday you can easily buy these plates (and of course better, based on OSB bond). But today, you can review the resin-bonded alternatives from Japan - Naniwa-produced diamond plates, and NSK Kogyo diamond plates.
The most important pocket knife feature is TIP UP CARRY and one hand open/close. Also, You can depress the backlock enough to shake the blade down with your finger at the choil and then close it one handed. That is what I do with my endela in k390.
Hello sir! Absolutely love the videos and you do a fantastic job of explaining not only the process of making things sharp, but WHY it happens as well. The material science behind it is fascinating. I had a question these stones - I currently have a full set of the Orion diamond stones and I have the Orion cubed Resin CBN stones on the way. I figured I'd get some hands on experience with both sets to feel the differences between the two stone types myself, but wondering if you have experience between these two stones, as the CBN stones are even more expensive. Thanks for all you do and am loving the more frequent uploads!
I love my Spyderco Enuff 2 in VG10. Live in GA and work part time in a kitchen on the weekends, and a UPS store during the week. Being in a high humid state, working around food, and cutting boxes upon boxes all week long I opted for the more rust resistance blade. (also comes in K390) I LOVE THIS KNIFE!!! No locking mechanism to fail, fixed blades FTW! It is slimer than most folders, making it my go to EDC almost every time. Looking to get a button lock knife next, but cant decide, lot's of competition out there right now on the market. Thank you for this "not a review" video.
The Manix 2 FRN with the rivets was one of my first good knives. I ended up giving it to my brother since it wasn't seeing much pocket time (probably in part because it was eating pockets), but I've almost pulled the trigger on a new one so many times. I got the Shaman thinking it would be similar but with the compression lock, but it's really not the same. Very nearly pulled the trigger on a new one a couple of times now.
Spyderco not only does a great job on their heat treat, they delve deep into exotic steels. My Manix in Maxamet is riveted.😢 Try the button lock CJRB Frack with titanium scales in S90V. Unreal. Fast and smooth opening and closing. My personal favorite from the last year of all the folders purchased.
Thanks for this info! I picked up the same Rex 45 Manix 2 and it's a regular carry for me. One handed open/close makes total sense depending on how often you're using your knife and under what conditions. Like I imagine most folks doing some kind of construction or trades need that because you're on a ladder, holding something against a wall, down on the ground, or otherwise have one hand tied up and you can't use both for closing the knife. OTOH, if you're using the knife in a more standard standing/sitting setting, or only using it a few times a day, it's less of an issue. Wishing you the best with your health!
The lw manix 2 imo have better lock up and less blade play issues than the non lw version. Rex 45 lw I'd a beast.. Paired with the original goat scales..still waiting for mine.
Glad to see your videos popping up more frequently again. I never miss an upload. Have you tried the paramilitary 2? The conpression lock is just tried and true and the pm2 hasnt let me down going on almost a decade now. You've got me looking for a manix 2 to try out. I almost pulled the trigger earlier this week too but bills :(
That locking mechanism looks similar to the Benchmade axis lock. I think I've seen a few other manufacturers with similar mechanisms. The mini griptilian was my favorite knife and EDC for several years, loved the axis mechanism. Maybe there are other designs that might meet your ambidextrous, one-handed open & close requirements.
Great video! I regularly tell people my favorite feature of my OTFs is how easy they are to close and put away, I'm glad to know I'm not the only one that thinks about closing knives when they choose them.
Alex, I totally agree it's very important with a folding knife that it's easy to close, but I'll add a caveat to that... I want it easy to put in your pocket as well. I hate it when the pocket clip doesn’t flare out far enough on the end to easily get it to slide over the pocket opening. As far as ease of closing... that's why I don't use lockbacks as EDC. I also think it's important, though, how easy it is to open the knife with one hand. Beyond that, how it fits in your pocket, and how it feels to use. Just like you, I am left handed and so find it difficult to find knives that are a perfect fit. Some have thumb studs on only the right side, or the liner lock (or frame lock) goes the wrong direction to make it easy for left handers.
How do you feel they compare to the naniwa diamond layered bonded whetstones? They seem like an available-ish alternative. Thanks for another great vid
The naniwas use a harder binder. Id say they work equally well, meaning final results are the same. However the feel when sharpening is vastly different. The venevs feel like shaptons. The naniwas feel like a toilet seat, which i know you're familiar with. 😉 Ps The naniwas grit rating is not the same as the shaptons. The 1k naniwa resin bonded is about equivalent to the 2k shapton.
nice! I will be stuck with the naniwa in my part of the world given availability unless something amazing happens between now and when I’m ready to buy a diamond resin-y stone
They rivet things!!! Two things I want in a knife, single handed ooeration and the ability to dismantle, fix, tune and clean. Especially after cutting food, fruit and dead game.....
QUESTION: Hello Alex, I see you use a strop with diamond compound 6, or 2 µm - I remember my hairdresser from long time ago using wax for his razor strop; his strop consisted on a leather strap with one end attached to the wall; he used it by holding and pulling on it with his left hand, and stroping the blade with his right hand. You are recommending a leather strap affixed to a flat surface. Do you know what rationale explains these different uses and processes?
A great place to get Venev stones is Gritomatic. They also have a handy chart showing how different grit ratings compare (FEPA-F vs JIS vs .....) And is that a Kizer Drop Bear at the end? Their crossbar lock with the adjustable tension seems like a brilliant next step for that type of lock.
Ayo! you're left handed too?! That's awesome! I've been wanting to get a Manix 2 with the clear blue hand but I just dont do enough knife things to warrant going over the 50 dollar range for an EDC. (and have too many other expensive hobbies.) Might look around and see if I can find any deals.
I like the manix 2, but I find it takes quite a bit of effort to pull the ball-bearing lock. I've found that their compression locks take a little less effort, they also meet your easy to close requirement.
Dude you are so good at this. Years ago when I first started tubing I found your channel and you did great comedic stuff while delivering good info about my interests. I really like close-ups…as they helped me grasp concepts. I wish you well and good fortune. And know…all that you have created will linger…probably as long as people do. Like a joy providing echo bouncing through Observable Reality. There…about 2 sentences too long…this makes 3. Cheers
When I got my manix I looked at the tip and noticed it was really close to the handle and sometimes my shirt will catch on the tip, I was also wondering how long it would take to come out of the handle like your knife. The manix 2 is still my favorite knife! It's something you have to buy if you want a knife.
Hi, i have some question 1. Do i need to form a burr each time i change my stone ? For example i already form a burr each side from coarse stone and i want to progress to finer stone. Do i need to do the same thing again ? Or i can just try to polish the scratch pattern ? 2. How do you flatten or maintenance your kuromaku stone series ? I hope its not stupid but i try to use the cheap aluminum oxide stone with my kuromaku. Thanks in advance i currently working in meat industry as slicer and i really need to maintain my knife but im just a beginner.
I love Spyderco Manix. I started with Manix 2 then switch to Shaman and back to Manix. Alex if u have an ocasion please try Manix in magnacut and test it please. I am only affraid that edge retention on s110v will be better then magancut steel. From the other heand we cant go wrong with HT from Spyderco i think so. I love both channels, yours and Jerad too👍
Hi Alex. Wanna ask you about Manix and Spyderco bubble. What about Benchnade's axis-lock? For me, left handed axis-lock is a great decision. Did you ever think about jump into Benchnade bubble?
i agree with the backlock problem i have a spyderco C36GOR it's a framelock, and one day as i'm making feather stickes, i pushed the lock and and the blade i had sharpened 2 hours ago up to 4000 grit came down like a guillotine on my fingers and caused me a very nasty wound that took 3 weeks to heal
I'm sure you already know this, but they make the paramilitary 2 in a left handed version. Have you tried it? The compression lock they use is my favorite style on any knife I've owned and also by far the fastest for me to open/close.
Hello! Would you please consider making a video on your thoughts on different steels, specifically 8cr13Mov, VG10, and S30V/S35VN? I'm very curious if you feel that they can all be sharpened to the same level of sharpness, I'm less concerned/curious on retention and ease of sharpening. The reason why I'm so curious about this is I have some basic 8CR13Mov Spyderco knives which I love, but swallowing the 100-200 dollar price tag difference for the premium steel spydercos hurts to think about. Thanks!!
Could someone explain what I was looking at and what he was talking about with the number "65" when looking at the "cone of truth"? I'm going to assume 65 is the HRC or hardness, but what is the image we are looking at?
When this happens to my slipjoints I just adjust the point that interfaces with the stop pin or back spring to determine how far inwards the blade sits. Surely there was a way to do this here as well?
Would you recommend these over the naniwa chocera (formerly pro) stones? Here in the EU these are available up to 2500 grit from the tsprof website, thanks
Thanks for this channel. I have learned so much. I have noticed that sometimes you use oil and sometimes not. Can you comment on your decision to or not to use oil and which oil do you recommend? Best, Ed
Thank you for the recommendation of the Venev stones. I am new to sharpening and your channel brought me really up to speed. At first I overlooked this video and wanted to get my hands on the Sharpal. However shipping was expensive. Luckily I found this hidden recommendation for the Venev stones, they are much more available than the Sharpal where I live. Just a reminder that you have an audience around the globe and when it comes to availability of certain stones these issues can be upside down. 😅
Would you recommend the Veneer 1200 or 1500? I have the tan EE DMT stone which, micron wise, should be the equivalent to the Venev 1200. But Im sure quality wise the Veneer 1200 would be a huge improvement. Or would it not be and then I should get the 1500?
Thanks for (again) a great video! I saw it on Friday evening and as you predicted: I googled afterwards, but the Vevev Orion wasn't in stock anywhere. Saturday evening I had a little more time and on Google page 13-15(?) I found a link to a German webshop where they had 6 different stones in stock! I bought all 6!
Awesome content as always! I have a 3 set of DMT stones, corse, fine and extra fine. I’ve had a hard time getting razor sharp do you think I need a finer stone or just a strop? I have neither
Hi, can you share how you flatten your kuromaku ceramic stone ? I saw your video of flatten your whetstone but is it the same with ceramic ? Does a lower and finer grit have difference methode of flatten ?
I'm right handed so I have a high preference for compression lock knives for exactly the same reason: it's the quickest, safest knife to go back in my pocket after I'm done cutting the thing I need to cut so I can continue the task at hand.
I love my Ontario Utilitac II. I've had it for over a 12 years now and it still works amazingly and it's the best single hand open/close knife I seen. I honestly just wish I bought another one (without black paint on the blade) to have as a backup... Tired to get one from few stores that said they are capable of getting it, but in the end the order just got canceled :(
I've been carrying a blade every day since 1978. Sadly arthritis has limited my knife options. I really need a flipper with a button lock. It puts the least strain on my hand. I am also a wharncliffe /sheepsfoot fan. Which limits my options even further. I'm carrying a Sitivien these days.
The endura 4 was my first real knife. I remember using a couple of different ways to open/close it with one hand and got pretty good at it. Then one day I realized I could just keep my fingers in the same place (as long as they're not really low on the handle), use my thumb to unlock and let the blade fall until the unsharpened part below the sharpening choil get stopped by my index finger, then partially open my fingers to get out of the path of the blade and let it drop the rest of the way. It's really easy, quick, effective, and satisfying in its own way. Definitely more than I'd thought it'd be.
I’m with you on the ease of closing knives. I still rank ease and speed of opening higher than closing, but closing is still very important. So far my favorite mechanism for both actions is the Super Lock in the CIVIVI Vision FG. 100% ambidextrous, and super-fidgety. Even cooler than crossbar style locks.
Great video, Alex. You are super entertaining. Dude, i can't wait to see all of the knives Jerod sent for u to check out.😮 From following you for the last 4yrs or more you are the person that turned me into a mega Spyderco fan boy. 200 Spyderco's and increasing. See you in the next one.
I bought the diamond resin bonded stones in a few different grits and shapes years ago and they are very nice for knives with hard to grind steels. I swear the fewer passes I have to make, the crisper the edge as long as I don't drop the ball stropping.
Wow! So THAT's how the Spyderco Harpy came to be... Not the origin story I was expecting, but ok. Great video Alex - good to see ya doing your thing as usual bro. Have a great day!
Do you agree with Jerad, that plates diamond stones are fine, up to 1200 (so like the DMT Extra Fine, or the Atoma 1200), and that you shouldn't bother with a far more expensive resin bonded one, at those grits?
Yes, 100% I wouldn't waste money on resin bonded below 1k grit. Above that is where resin bonded shines, since plated stones can't be made above 1k without longevity problems.
@@OUTDOORS55 Nice to know that a 1000/1200 plated stone is still fine, then. Makes me wonder what the considerations would be, for choosing between the 1000 grit Kuromaki you recommend, vs something like the DMT Extra Fine, or the Atoma 1200.
Venev stones? I have those! They are actually very easy to get... If you're in Russia. And considering the current events, yeah, exporting those is quite an issue. And they're still not the cheapest, $20-50 for a single grit stone, and they mostly produce them for knife sharpening systems, not for free hand sharpening. The downside is that they aren't usually perfectly flat out of the box and require additional preparation. Basically, you'll need to get a stone for your stones.
Cold steel tuff lite as handy as the Spyperco Manix at 1/3 price yet handles identically. The blade shape and handle make them both and the cold steel has the better lock and quicker sharpening/touch ups. Good options for presents, work sites, or scattering among kit at the better price. Can close onehanded no fingies in way just retract hand or reverse it and use heel of hand when stiff in early days.
10:23 Not that you want to spend money for something that might not work... but way back, I used to work in industrial manufacturing and we used a handheld tester. I think it was by Webster instruments.
Can you do a video sharing what you think of all the knife sharpness testing methods you’re aware of, including the cutting calibrated plastic wires on a scale (Best brand?), paper towels, folded sheets of paper, and this new one I just saw with a diagonal cut through rolled paper? Link in my reply to this comment.
I know without watching what stones Alex is talking about in this video. You know how? I'm a channel member =) And you should be, too (it costs almost nothing btw). Support the guy!
@@OUTDOORS55 Man, I just reached the part where you say can't close an Endura with one hand. But you totally can Relax the screw just a little bit so the blade can fall down freely. When the knife is opened, move your point finger forward closer to the blade. Then press the lock with you thumb and catch the falling blade on it's blunt part with you point finger, so the angle between the blade and the handle is ~90-110°. Then just move all your fingers away from the blade and finish closing the knife while putting it away into your pocket. It sounds scarier than it is =) I do it for 20 years with this knife, zero accidents Not as convenient as Manix, I agree, but still pretty good I hope my chaotic explanation makes sense
i got caught on the spyderco dragonfly 2 for the size, weight, and shape of the blade/handle. only issues for me are that it has a back lock and you can't change it to tip down carry.
You can still buy the 3x8 Venevs directly from Hapstone in Ukraine. Excellent stones, but for the lower grits i prefer the electroplated stones. Venevs tend to cut a little slower, however they dont max out around 1200 JIS. Love my 15V Manix, AWT Scales make it even better!
Thanks to Jerad → www.youtube.com/@NeevesKnives/featured for contributing some knives and commentary for this, and future videos! Check the description for links to his channel and things mentioned in this video😉 Thanks Friends!
The Veneve 3x8 regular and Dragon are available in Europe and the Poltava resin bonded, and metal bonded. If you are willing to wait about a week for shipping (could be only a few days also depending on the carrier).
I own Venev, Nanawa, Columbia Gorge and Poltava. Venev, very good. Nanawa, better, but more expensive. Columbia Gorge too soft to use edge on. Poltava Metal Matrix CBN, Vastly superior to any of them. There is olne other, the BBB Stones but at 400 bucks +, and mostly obtainium. out of the uunning.
Jerad of Neeve's Knives just tested the Poltava CBN and found the same.
KnifeMaker/Medically Retired after over 47+ Years in the Craft and in association with the orginial Loveless Shop
@@michaell397 interesting, i dont like my naniwas as much as the venevs. How old are your venevs? I believe they changed the resin at some point.
Go to wisemancompany and search for the fang or 5x5 combat solutions and you can get pocket flippers for the manix 2. I have both and highly prefer the fang over 5x5
Great video. You and Jerad are two of the best freehand sharpeners I’ve learned from!
Bro…I’m not just saying this… I’m a KnifeTuber myself…This is the best knife channel on TH-cam right now. It’s not even close.
Hey I appreciate that! Just having fun making videos in my garage. Thanks my friend 🙏👍
Just subscribed 👍
Absolutely.
Alex is such a great asset to the community, lets hope he doesnt go anywhere
Both of you guys are!
I'm glad you'll teamed up. One legend = good. Two = better.
He and JDavis us how I got into proper sharpening
@@tariqkamil7853 bro jdavis is OLD school. An interesting story though about why he disappeared.
@@OUTDOORS55 yeah, kinda know why John quit. He was the first person I interacted with on TH-cam. U were the 2nd, and I still follow both of u and OCD4edc, Jered, and ZACH for ur content. Others I followed when first gettin into knives and sharpening to absorb as much info as possible. BTW John steered me to have a look at the Benchmade 940…and basically killed the knife search/search addiction. And yes I have 4 940s 🤣
Regarding the grit: As indicated by the F in front of the grit number, it's in the FEPA (Federation of European Producers of Abrasives) grit system. Most sharpening stones are in the japanese JIS grit system, you can find conversion tables online. It is not just times 3! A few examples:
150 FEPA = 150 JIS = 82 micron
320 FEPA = 600 JIS = 30 micron
400 FEPA = 1000 JIS = 17 micron
1000 FEPA = 3000 JIS = 5 micron
1200 FEPA = 4000 JIS = 3 micron
1500 FEPA =6000 JIS = 2 micron
2000 FEPA = 8000 JIS = 1.2 micron
I love the humor u put 8nto your videos. Its what got me started watching you, which has also started my journey in sharpening.
Thanks my friend 🙏👍
Venev industrial diamonds is located in Russia. You can't get them easily because of sanctions. You need parallel import in your country with 3rd party to get theese and "licensed" as 3rd coundry production to avoid sanctions. It is basically counterfeit as it is because US citizens are prohibited to buy ANY made in Russia good. That's also the reason why Shirogorov knives are very rare to see in US.
UPD: I live in Russia and i can buy theese stones for like 24 dollars a piece.
They are available thru Grit O Matic. I have switched to Poltava CBN Metal Matrix stones which are a 3mm mixture of copper and tin. (Bronze) and are cutting much faster and cleaner than the Veneve which I have a good selection of. Even with a lot of use they will last a lifetime. ;
@@michaell397 venev does also have stones with tin-copper compond. They also have elbor variant.
@@cecuca1548961 Yes they do, but only in the very coarse grits. I have complete sets by both companies and the difference in cutting performance is unreal. Also the Veneve is diamond only whereas the Poltava is Diamond or CBN. The abrasive concentration is also much higher in the Poltava with a broader selection of grits.
Veneve skipps from 400 to 800 which in Jis scale is actually 1000 and 3000 where as Poltava I have are much more well spaced. I use 80-100-235-335-550-650-1500-3000 JIS All in copper/Tin Matrix (and are developing a new matrix that is going to be a game changer).They also have much higher grits are offered but I don't use higher with sones. Only stropping paste which they have in both water and oil base.
Poltava is the originator of the Matrix stones and have been doing them for decades. Sadly, only available in Europe until now. The make their own CNB Grits in which they are the largest industrial maker of CBN Abrasives in the World. (They are a manufacturer of Industrial Aerospace quality of Diamond and CBN machining tools). Veneve is a tiny company in comparison and rather new to the game.
I find that CBN cuts faster and smoother with much better feel and gives an outstanding finish and requires no water/lube on them which is a huge win especially when using a fixed angle sharpener which is much cleaner. It is also cleaner hand sharpening but really shines for fixed angle sharpeners.
Poltava has just opened a warehouse here in the U.S. with NO issues getting anything you want. No sanctions! Veneve is getting harder (Near impossible) and harder to find. Which is a shame as I do like their products. ;
@@michaell397 Poltava CBN Metal Matrix are really grate!
Oh, bro. I miss St Petersburg. fun thing only russian thing I took in US its my Kizlyar supreme knife.
Can you do a hardness test of Spyderco manix 2 maxament?
Really interested to see that.
Claims to be 67-68 Rockwell.
Also would love your thoughts on it..
Great content as always best knife channel on TH-cam keep it up 👍
Damn, bruh, you have been pumping out videos like crazy recently. I'll take it as a sign your health is back on track.
To each their own but I close my back lock spydies with one hand. Thumb on the lock, index finger as far up on the handle as you can and just let it drop. The choil lands on your index fingers and you close it the rest of the way, whether that's pivoting the knife in your hand and finish closing with your index finger or just flick it shut the rest of the way.
Wanna race😉👍
That's how I close my back lock spydercos as well.
@@OUTDOORS55bring it lol
The knife in the video isn't a backlock, what are you guys talking about
@@jamess3241 watch the whole video bud
I’ve encountered that problem and solved it by grinding the internal “heel” of the blade. This acts as a stop bumper when closed. Grind it a bit and the blade will close further without messing with spine of the blade.
Hey Alex,
I just wanted to thank you very much! I was able to learn how to sharpen my knives on your videos. Even more important, I was able to overcome the learning plateau and now I can feel if my angle is correct. For me you wrist fixing advises were the most useful and required the most of my attention! Thank you! :)
same here 😊
Great vid! I have been really liking a lot of Spyderco lock backs lately. They don't close as easily as the compression lock or ball bearing locks but I have really gotten used to the way they close and can do them one handed. It just takes for me to be aware of where my fingers are placed in the path of the blade. I try to get them up high as close to the riccaso as possible so that part of the blade will fall onto my knuckle rather than a sharpened portion, then I'm able to reach the blade and close it the rest of the way, all with one hand. When you get used to it it's actually kind of fun. It has its own fidget character that I have learned to love
Single-handed opening/closing is the most important thing for me as well in any tool knife, as my other hand would be often occupied by whatever I'm cutting like cardboard, twine, or whatnot.
sure i could plan ahead, but knives are for when we already deep in the project.
Spyderco's midlock is really easy to one hand open and close once you get used to it. My opinion may be different because while I have owned a few larger examples, I only regularly carried the delicas, matriarch, and my favorite summer lightweight won't pull my shorts down knife the calypso Jr super blue. Which BTW is pinned construction, extremely light, holds a great edge and is pretty easy to open, close, sharpen, hone, and strop.
Alex I'm glad you pointed out the problem we lefty’s have in a right handed world. I fully agree that a how a knife closes safely..is just as, if not more important than how it opens. Liner locks and back locking knives are the bane of my existence! 😆 Cheers from Nova Scotia…MikeR.
For some rei dont mind liners or frame locks as much. I can still close them pretty easily. The back locks i just can't manage as easily 🙂👍
indeed. Lefty on right handed world is some sort of upside down living. I'm 33, but i still have troubles with scissors, liner locked pocket knives, and a gun's safety flags.
When I saw Alex, the left handed Spyderco fan, i thought "This man has the same trouble. Watch how he solve 'em"
M4 was my favorite steel for years. Today, K390 is my favorite. I'm older than you ( much older), and I carried a Buck 110 for years, so I have no problem closing a back-lock pocket knife with one hand.😊
The Endura 4 in zdp-189 has been my edc for two years and as long as you move your index finger high enough on the frame you can pretty easily close it one handed without injury to your finger.
I drop all my mid backlock spydercos to my finger against the choil on the stretch 2 or the flat at the ricaso as long as they're broken in enough to drop, then move my fingers and pointer finger slap it closed. Being lefty and buying knives for 40 years has put me in the position that I only buy stuff I want and that functions well left handed. I prefer lefty CRK's or ambi locks for sure, now.
Oh, the Venev Stones... Wow... Just wow... I am pleasantly surprised that those are selling in USA and are getting some love in the USA. Those are Russian made by "Venev Industrial Diamonds" factory. They are made for special hand sharpening machines, but work for hand sharpening too. Here in Russia I have bought the 7/5 one for 40 USD.
yep. That's surprised me as well. But we all (i mean knife users all over the world) must admit quality of Venev Diamonds.
@Vivicect0r, what size is your diamond stone and do you sharpen by hand?
@@Jack-gh2yi I mainly use plated diamond from Taidea, Venev one serves for finishing polish. Its small, like 3*9 cm or so. Yea, I do it by hand.
Its also surprising for me why anyone in USA would buy a products made in terrorist state also known as russia. Why sponsor terrorist, murder and rapist?
I guess we all go through changing seasons of preferences. At one point we probably swore by back locks and how sturdy they were, then suddenly found ourselves spending silly money on compression locks, only to spend even more silly money on button locks, then somehow craved stability and became fix bladers and we cleared out our drawers only to rediscover our first love for slip joints.
Ahh... the struggles of knifers.
Absolutely love your channel. You tought me how to sharpen a knive and how to understand properly burr removal. Thanks for everything and lotsa love from Sweden. You da king 👑
Yes the button or slide button loacks are very easy for drop closure but mid locks and frame locks are also super easy is you depress the lock to disengage and then simply push the back of the blade closed against anything you wish such as the pocket. leg or whatever. A little practice and its quick, safe and very simple
Someday you can easily buy these plates (and of course better, based on OSB bond). But today, you can review the resin-bonded alternatives from Japan - Naniwa-produced diamond plates, and NSK Kogyo diamond plates.
The most important pocket knife feature is TIP UP CARRY and one hand open/close.
Also, You can depress the backlock enough to shake the blade down with your finger at the choil and then close it one handed. That is what I do with my endela in k390.
Of course you CAN close it one hand. Just not as easily👍
Hello sir! Absolutely love the videos and you do a fantastic job of explaining not only the process of making things sharp, but WHY it happens as well. The material science behind it is fascinating. I had a question these stones - I currently have a full set of the Orion diamond stones and I have the Orion cubed Resin CBN stones on the way. I figured I'd get some hands on experience with both sets to feel the differences between the two stone types myself, but wondering if you have experience between these two stones, as the CBN stones are even more expensive.
Thanks for all you do and am loving the more frequent uploads!
I love my Spyderco Enuff 2 in VG10. Live in GA and work part time in a kitchen on the weekends, and a UPS store during the week. Being in a high humid state, working around food, and cutting boxes upon boxes all week long I opted for the more rust resistance blade. (also comes in K390) I LOVE THIS KNIFE!!! No locking mechanism to fail, fixed blades FTW! It is slimer than most folders, making it my go to EDC almost every time. Looking to get a button lock knife next, but cant decide, lot's of competition out there right now on the market. Thank you for this "not a review" video.
@03:39, can you add drop shadows to the white text so it's easier to read on bright backgrounds?
The Manix 2 FRN with the rivets was one of my first good knives. I ended up giving it to my brother since it wasn't seeing much pocket time (probably in part because it was eating pockets), but I've almost pulled the trigger on a new one so many times. I got the Shaman thinking it would be similar but with the compression lock, but it's really not the same. Very nearly pulled the trigger on a new one a couple of times now.
Spyderco not only does a great job on their heat treat, they delve deep into exotic steels. My Manix in Maxamet is riveted.😢 Try the button lock CJRB Frack with titanium scales in S90V. Unreal. Fast and smooth opening and closing. My personal favorite from the last year of all the folders purchased.
The only Mannix to not yet get upgraded to screw construction. I'm sure they'll get to it soon, and I'll be waiting on that day lol
fixed blade + nice sheathe > any folder < boxcutter
Thanks for this info! I picked up the same Rex 45 Manix 2 and it's a regular carry for me.
One handed open/close makes total sense depending on how often you're using your knife and under what conditions. Like I imagine most folks doing some kind of construction or trades need that because you're on a ladder, holding something against a wall, down on the ground, or otherwise have one hand tied up and you can't use both for closing the knife. OTOH, if you're using the knife in a more standard standing/sitting setting, or only using it a few times a day, it's less of an issue.
Wishing you the best with your health!
The lw manix 2 imo have better lock up and less blade play issues than the non lw version. Rex 45 lw I'd a beast.. Paired with the original goat scales..still waiting for mine.
Glad to see your videos popping up more frequently again. I never miss an upload. Have you tried the paramilitary 2? The conpression lock is just tried and true and the pm2 hasnt let me down going on almost a decade now. You've got me looking for a manix 2 to try out. I almost pulled the trigger earlier this week too but bills :(
Thank you for what you do.
I have the Rex 45 manix so I’m glad to see it do so well on the hardness test. Hope you’re feeling well. Keep the videos coming and thanks!!!
THE MOST IMPORTANT THING!!!! I'm left handed too!
That locking mechanism looks similar to the Benchmade axis lock. I think I've seen a few other manufacturers with similar mechanisms. The mini griptilian was my favorite knife and EDC for several years, loved the axis mechanism. Maybe there are other designs that might meet your ambidextrous, one-handed open & close requirements.
Great video! I regularly tell people my favorite feature of my OTFs is how easy they are to close and put away, I'm glad to know I'm not the only one that thinks about closing knives when they choose them.
Alex, I totally agree it's very important with a folding knife that it's easy to close, but I'll add a caveat to that... I want it easy to put in your pocket as well. I hate it when the pocket clip doesn’t flare out far enough on the end to easily get it to slide over the pocket opening. As far as ease of closing... that's why I don't use lockbacks as EDC. I also think it's important, though, how easy it is to open the knife with one hand. Beyond that, how it fits in your pocket, and how it feels to use. Just like you, I am left handed and so find it difficult to find knives that are a perfect fit. Some have thumb studs on only the right side, or the liner lock (or frame lock) goes the wrong direction to make it easy for left handers.
How do you feel they compare to the naniwa diamond layered bonded whetstones? They seem like an available-ish alternative. Thanks for another great vid
The naniwas use a harder binder. Id say they work equally well, meaning final results are the same. However the feel when sharpening is vastly different. The venevs feel like shaptons. The naniwas feel like a toilet seat, which i know you're familiar with. 😉
Ps The naniwas grit rating is not the same as the shaptons. The 1k naniwa resin bonded is about equivalent to the 2k shapton.
nice! I will be stuck with the naniwa in my part of the world given availability unless something amazing happens between now and when I’m ready to buy a diamond resin-y stone
They rivet things!!!
Two things I want in a knife, single handed ooeration and the ability to dismantle, fix, tune and clean.
Especially after cutting food, fruit and dead game.....
QUESTION:
Hello Alex, I see you use a strop with diamond compound 6, or 2 µm - I remember my hairdresser from long time ago using wax for his razor strop; his strop consisted on a leather strap with one end attached to the wall; he used it by holding and pulling on it with his left hand, and stroping the blade with his right hand. You are recommending a leather strap affixed to a flat surface.
Do you know what rationale explains these different uses and processes?
At 7:49 it appears that your handle, or scale if you will, is broken/cracked.
What happened, or am I seeing things?
Whats your thoughts on a 1x30 belt sander with a leather strop. I have a leather belt ordered. Im gonna try
A great place to get Venev stones is Gritomatic. They also have a handy chart showing how different grit ratings compare (FEPA-F vs JIS vs .....)
And is that a Kizer Drop Bear at the end? Their crossbar lock with the adjustable tension seems like a brilliant next step for that type of lock.
Ayo! you're left handed too?! That's awesome!
I've been wanting to get a Manix 2 with the clear blue hand but I just dont do enough knife things to warrant going over the 50 dollar range for an EDC. (and have too many other expensive hobbies.)
Might look around and see if I can find any deals.
I like the manix 2, but I find it takes quite a bit of effort to pull the ball-bearing lock. I've found that their compression locks take a little less effort, they also meet your easy to close requirement.
Okay .. bro , the rap beat drop at 7:40 while unveiling the M4 Manix
Makes this video a certified classic
In my favourites forever ♾️ 🔥
Dude you are so good at this. Years ago when I first started tubing I found your channel and you did great comedic stuff while delivering good info about my interests. I really like close-ups…as they helped me grasp concepts. I wish you well and good fortune. And know…all that you have created will linger…probably as long as people do. Like a joy providing echo bouncing through Observable Reality. There…about 2 sentences too long…this makes 3. Cheers
Thanks, Really appreciate the feedback! And thanks for taking the tome to watch🙏
When I got my manix I looked at the tip and noticed it was really close to the handle and sometimes my shirt will catch on the tip, I was also wondering how long it would take to come out of the handle like your knife.
The manix 2 is still my favorite knife! It's something you have to buy if you want a knife.
Hi, i have some question
1. Do i need to form a burr each time i change my stone ? For example i already form a burr each side from coarse stone and i want to progress to finer stone. Do i need to do the same thing again ? Or i can just try to polish the scratch pattern ?
2. How do you flatten or maintenance your kuromaku stone series ? I hope its not stupid but i try to use the cheap aluminum oxide stone with my kuromaku.
Thanks in advance i currently working in meat industry as slicer and i really need to maintain my knife but im just a beginner.
I love Spyderco Manix. I started with Manix 2 then switch to Shaman and back to Manix. Alex if u have an ocasion please try Manix in magnacut and test it please. I am only affraid that edge retention on s110v will be better then magancut steel. From the other heand we cant go wrong with HT from Spyderco i think so. I love both channels, yours and Jerad too👍
Hi Alex. Wanna ask you about Manix and Spyderco bubble. What about Benchnade's axis-lock? For me, left handed axis-lock is a great decision. Did you ever think about jump into Benchnade bubble?
i agree with the backlock problem
i have a spyderco C36GOR
it's a framelock, and one day as i'm making feather stickes, i pushed the lock and and the blade i had sharpened 2 hours ago up to 4000 grit came down like a guillotine on my fingers and caused me a very nasty wound that took 3 weeks to heal
I'm sure you already know this, but they make the paramilitary 2 in a left handed version. Have you tried it? The compression lock they use is my favorite style on any knife I've owned and also by far the fastest for me to open/close.
Hello! Would you please consider making a video on your thoughts on different steels, specifically 8cr13Mov, VG10, and S30V/S35VN? I'm very curious if you feel that they can all be sharpened to the same level of sharpness, I'm less concerned/curious on retention and ease of sharpening.
The reason why I'm so curious about this is I have some basic 8CR13Mov Spyderco knives which I love, but swallowing the 100-200 dollar price tag difference for the premium steel spydercos hurts to think about.
Thanks!!
Great video as always Alex. Keep em coming.
Could someone explain what I was looking at and what he was talking about with the number "65" when looking at the "cone of truth"? I'm going to assume 65 is the HRC or hardness, but what is the image we are looking at?
The anvil poking the blade
When this happens to my slipjoints I just adjust the point that interfaces with the stop pin or back spring to determine how far inwards the blade sits. Surely there was a way to do this here as well?
Would you recommend these over the naniwa chocera (formerly pro) stones? Here in the EU these are available up to 2500 grit from the tsprof website, thanks
At 7:49 .Was that a crack in the green spyderco?
Thanks for this channel. I have learned so much. I have noticed that sometimes you use oil and sometimes not. Can you comment on your decision to or not to use oil and which oil do you recommend?
Best, Ed
Does Spyderco offer replacement blades for heavy users (sharpeners)?
Have you tried the Manix 2 in MagnaCut? I'm curious about your impressions
Thank you for the recommendation of the Venev stones. I am new to sharpening and your channel brought me really up to speed.
At first I overlooked this video and wanted to get my hands on the Sharpal. However shipping was expensive. Luckily I found this hidden recommendation for the Venev stones, they are much more available than the Sharpal where I live.
Just a reminder that you have an audience around the globe and when it comes to availability of certain stones these issues can be upside down. 😅
Would you recommend the Veneer 1200 or 1500? I have the tan EE DMT stone which, micron wise, should be the equivalent to the Venev 1200. But Im sure quality wise the Veneer 1200 would be a huge improvement. Or would it not be and then I should get the 1500?
I'm very curious if cutting tape dulls a knife or if it's very negligible and just the residue that makes it cut worse.
Thanks for (again) a great video! I saw it on Friday evening and as you predicted: I googled afterwards, but the Vevev Orion wasn't in stock anywhere. Saturday evening I had a little more time and on Google page 13-15(?) I found a link to a German webshop where they had 6 different stones in stock! I bought all 6!
Dude your vids are such good entertainment along with info. Your natural sense of humor makes it work. Take care.
Awesome content as always! I have a 3 set of DMT stones, corse, fine and extra fine. I’ve had a hard time getting razor sharp do you think I need a finer stone or just a strop? I have neither
You definitely need a strop. Finer stones won't help. Make sure your apexed and you can whittle hair off of the fine and a strop👍
@@OUTDOORS55 thanks ok 👍
Don't know why, but this is my favorite video of yours yet. Great job.
Hi, can you share how you flatten your kuromaku ceramic stone ? I saw your video of flatten your whetstone but is it the same with ceramic ? Does a lower and finer grit have difference methode of flatten ?
I'm right handed so I have a high preference for compression lock knives for exactly the same reason: it's the quickest, safest knife to go back in my pocket after I'm done cutting the thing I need to cut so I can continue the task at hand.
I love my Ontario Utilitac II. I've had it for over a 12 years now and it still works amazingly and it's the best single hand open/close knife I seen.
I honestly just wish I bought another one (without black paint on the blade) to have as a backup... Tired to get one from few stores that said they are capable of getting it, but in the end the order just got canceled :(
I've been carrying a blade every day since 1978. Sadly arthritis has limited my knife options. I really need a flipper with a button lock. It puts the least strain on my hand. I am also a wharncliffe /sheepsfoot fan. Which limits my options even further. I'm carrying a Sitivien these days.
The endura 4 was my first real knife. I remember using a couple of different ways to open/close it with one hand and got pretty good at it. Then one day I realized I could just keep my fingers in the same place (as long as they're not really low on the handle), use my thumb to unlock and let the blade fall until the unsharpened part below the sharpening choil get stopped by my index finger, then partially open my fingers to get out of the path of the blade and let it drop the rest of the way. It's really easy, quick, effective, and satisfying in its own way. Definitely more than I'd thought it'd be.
can you please do a review on high grit diamond stones? like 3k+.
I’m with you on the ease of closing knives. I still rank ease and speed of opening higher than closing, but closing is still very important. So far my favorite mechanism for both actions is the Super Lock in the CIVIVI Vision FG. 100% ambidextrous, and super-fidgety. Even cooler than crossbar style locks.
Great video, Alex. You are super entertaining. Dude, i can't wait to see all of the knives Jerod sent for u to check out.😮 From following you for the last 4yrs or more you are the person that turned me into a mega Spyderco fan boy. 200 Spyderco's and increasing. See you in the next one.
I bought the diamond resin bonded stones in a few different grits and shapes years ago and they are very nice for knives with hard to grind steels. I swear the fewer passes I have to make, the crisper the edge as long as I don't drop the ball stropping.
Crisp is the word for sure👍
Wow! So THAT's how the Spyderco Harpy came to be... Not the origin story I was expecting, but ok. Great video Alex - good to see ya doing your thing as usual bro. Have a great day!
I want to see more of those "resin bound" stones. are there cheaper alternatives?
There are alternatives but not really much cheaper.
@@OUTDOORS55 at least some of them are in stock
your green msnix has a pressure crack in it near pivot. shows in close up LOOK LOOK LOOK
Had to scroll for a minute to see if anyone else caught it. Hope he can warranty
A lot of them are like that. He'll more than likely just change the scales if he wants to keep the M4
Can you do a video about how to sharpen the tip of the knife? Mine always gets less sharp than the rest.
Enjoy those Manix's!! I love REX I'm sure you'll enjoy it, if you haven't used it before. Thanks for sharing the hardness tests
Do you agree with Jerad, that plates diamond stones are fine, up to 1200 (so like the DMT Extra Fine, or the Atoma 1200), and that you shouldn't bother with a far more expensive resin bonded one, at those grits?
Yes, 100% I wouldn't waste money on resin bonded below 1k grit. Above that is where resin bonded shines, since plated stones can't be made above 1k without longevity problems.
@@OUTDOORS55 Nice to know that a 1000/1200 plated stone is still fine, then. Makes me wonder what the considerations would be, for choosing between the 1000 grit Kuromaki you recommend, vs something like the DMT Extra Fine, or the Atoma 1200.
Hey Alex how much would a replica cold steel OSI with metal guards and a wood handle cost?
Venev stones? I have those! They are actually very easy to get... If you're in Russia. And considering the current events, yeah, exporting those is quite an issue. And they're still not the cheapest, $20-50 for a single grit stone, and they mostly produce them for knife sharpening systems, not for free hand sharpening.
The downside is that they aren't usually perfectly flat out of the box and require additional preparation. Basically, you'll need to get a stone for your stones.
Gritomatic and Hapstone have some Venev stones
Cold steel tuff lite as handy as the Spyperco Manix at 1/3 price yet handles identically. The blade shape and handle make them both and the cold steel has the better lock and quicker sharpening/touch ups. Good options for presents, work sites, or scattering among kit at the better price. Can close onehanded no fingies in way just retract hand or reverse it and use heel of hand when stiff in early days.
Can you not take both screws out and the blade comes out on the pivot, I may be wrong I have not taken mine apart.
I do love your videos and the manix 2 lw is one of my favorites as well, thank you and keep on and please do more reviews like this!
10:23 Not that you want to spend money for something that might not work... but way back, I used to work in industrial manufacturing and we used a handheld tester. I think it was by Webster instruments.
Can you do a video sharing what you think of all the knife sharpness testing methods you’re aware of, including the cutting calibrated plastic wires on a scale (Best brand?), paper towels, folded sheets of paper, and this new one I just saw with a diagonal cut through rolled paper? Link in my reply to this comment.
How easy to close is one of the major reasons I stil like my aging benchmade 551, the blade basically just falls shut, plus it is light.
I have idea to try, test using Autosol metal polish or valve grinding compound instead of diamond compound?
I know without watching what stones Alex is talking about in this video. You know how? I'm a channel member =)
And you should be, too (it costs almost nothing btw). Support the guy!
Haha thanks my friend 😉
@@OUTDOORS55 Man, I just reached the part where you say can't close an Endura with one hand. But you totally can
Relax the screw just a little bit so the blade can fall down freely. When the knife is opened, move your point finger forward closer to the blade. Then press the lock with you thumb and catch the falling blade on it's blunt part with you point finger, so the angle between the blade and the handle is ~90-110°. Then just move all your fingers away from the blade and finish closing the knife while putting it away into your pocket. It sounds scarier than it is =) I do it for 20 years with this knife, zero accidents
Not as convenient as Manix, I agree, but still pretty good
I hope my chaotic explanation makes sense
12:14 - "i dont know why im angry" rofl .... relatable.
i got caught on the spyderco dragonfly 2 for the size, weight, and shape of the blade/handle. only issues for me are that it has a back lock and you can't change it to tip down carry.
You can still buy the 3x8 Venevs directly from Hapstone in Ukraine. Excellent stones, but for the lower grits i prefer the electroplated stones. Venevs tend to cut a little slower, however they dont max out around 1200 JIS. Love my 15V Manix, AWT Scales make it even better!
Only available in the low grits. High grits are out of stock -- and have been for at least a year now.
Fepa 1200/2000 is still available, but I hadn't checked in a while. Those Venev Dragons will last a lifetime...
I'm more of a bugout guy personally. But I guess it's really a matter of preference between thumb stud vs thumb loop.