Great Job! Thanks for doing it. The wood you were looking for is ' kludge /kloo͞j/ noun 1. A system, especially a computer system, that is constituted of poorly matched elements or of elements originally intended for other applications. 2. A clumsy or inelegant solution to a problem. 3. An improvised device, usually crudely constructed. Typically used to test the validity of a principle before doing a finished design.
This guy is a real genuine character who has a neat sense of humor and is a champion kludger. Three cheers for him, his gentlemanly altruism, and this clip. Now I have 2 Watts and 2 Wilkins regulators to overhaul for my beloved neighbors who are elderly and on fixed incomes.
@@RogerPack The effort was not worth it. One worked; two did not. So I went and bought 3 new pressure reducers at the local plumbing supply house. They were cheap enough. I donated them and installed them without charge for 3 old women who were living in poverty. These devices don't last long here because of the high mineral content of our city water supply.
You did a wonderful job of explaining all the hacking and clooging without pictures. The part of having to resized the rubber washers must have been complicated. Congratulations you understood all that needed to be done and did it wonderfully, having to overcome that many "challenges". I'm glad at the end all that effort it paid you back, the valve worked fine again for many years to come and you saved some money.
This was a great video. After watching it, I finally understood what might be wrong with my pressure regulator. It gave me the confidence to open it up. I found that the sliding pin/bolt was stuck almost closed on a bit of corrosion. Mine was a new unit (a year old)so the seals were all fine. Just needed to sand a bit of corrosion off , reassemble and now I have water pressure again in my workshop. My regulator is to reduce our well water supply so that it works for a radiant heat system. I thought the lack of photos would be an issue but you explained and illustrated everything clearly. The humor was also appreciated. Well done.
Thank you so much! The cutaway diagram and your explanation makes the problem and solution very clear. Yes - the rebuild kits are grossly expensive. Nice, very effective kludge (note the official spelling as I define it).
great job on the video, i watched it twice....i just finished doing essentially the same thing on same model, saved me lots of time and money... free rustic shelter space for a day or two, with running water, if ever on the big island....:-)
I appreciate this video, not ready to upgrade the plumbing in the house yet and this temporary fix solved the problem. Thorough explanation made this project go by quick and saved the day!
Thank you so much. My recently replaced HWH TP valve was seeping and I was wracking my brains on why!! Turns out my water pressure regulator had a broken o ring and I was getting around 130PSI into the house. Yep you read that right. I bought a new one from lowes and then saw your video and and decided to take it apart. I used a makeshift o ring and it works. Now getting 60 psi into the house. Many thanks again sir!
I built my house 19 years ago when I installed the regulator. The street is ~100psi. I had set the regulator at 80psi. I know the cautions of this but had no problems till now. The home is sold, but before we close the sale, I need to set the psi in the house to the standard. But the regulator won't do its job anymore. The pressure gauge reads 90psi till another faucet is opened then it drops to ~20psi. Any adjustment only changes the low end. The faucets open at 90psi then quickly drops. This is a perfect case also to rebuild a regulator. How many hundreds of dollars did you say? Well, like you, I hate writing checks to smiling plumbers. Until I'm the smiling plumber, then that check needs to be written. Before the interweb thing, we had to work as an apprentice to learn this stuff. STILL, THANKS FOR ALL YOUR EFFORT INTO THIS PRODUCTION! Next house will be mortgage free!
I like how a certain type of person will criticize others for providing a service taking time from their own life and pay it forward too others - I salute people who do this as a volunteer -- the ones who will complain I do not see them taking the time and producing any thing -- so I can complain what they do - this happens to my video on music also --
There are always professional "complainers" in everything. He did some great explaining and all he deserves is gratitude, in my opinion. You can always slide forward if you are that impatient and timeless fellow. It was very describing, and I liked it.
We've had a few suggestions that it would have been easier and cheaper to replace the unit (typically given as $85 or less) rather than fix the old one. That would be a rational move for a 3/4 inch or smaller unit. Once you move to a 1 1/2 inch unit, the price JUMPS UP BIG TIME, no matter what the gravitational pull is on the planet you're from. Furthermore, until you pull the old one off, there's no way to tell precisely which couplings are required (because there are several variations) for the new one. Until you know that, kind'a tricky to order the right one and wait for it to arrive without putting the bad old one back on to keep water available in one's home. Thanks for all the comments, even the ones not well researched.
There are two reasons why replacing is better. First, lead free. Old unit contains lead upto 8%. New unit contains lead less than 0.25%. Second, it's cheaper as you said (I agree with you. 3/4" model only). HomeDepot sells LF25AUB-S-DU for $50. It's not listed on their website, but they sell it in store.
great posting! I just changed out the same regulator have done a lot of home work that might help too. First off I paid 325 bucks for an I dentical part number because my piping was all brass nipples no copper outside wall. Went to install it and though it would be a no brainer as the watts service center I called on phone assured me a perfect fit . Well it wasent Woulda used a much cheaper unit had i known I would be in such a mess. Ok Mr noessl;ic I found out that the pictures online at watts dont match the actual product thats why it looked differant a double union regulator is the same as a single unin regulator except it has a malethreaded union installed on one end. (its not noticeable looking at it but the top union is removeable) . Any way I am a plumber but never screwed around rebuilding but now I had 2 watts reg and one wilkins old ones in garage and they were simple to disassemble and now I understand how they work and will rebuild regulators at times cuz it is so easy Thanks Mr Noesslc. BTW the end caps have an oring its not brass to brass but its very hard to see. Also smart repair you made but I will usea kit because I will charge 2 or so labor just not worth my time but for my own property or emergency you got great idea!!
After 6 years I think the parts became too corroded to move correctly. I just replaced the whole unit. See new vid I just posted, Watts Water Pressure Regulator Replacement Of Previously Repaired One.
Hey, you are a marvelous teacher. Your teaching style and materials are great. Thanks a lot, I am hooked to see more of your videos and learn how my house works. Thanks again.
Always appreciate a video that teaches how something works before suggesting what to do with it. I don't have the same valve (I can't even find the model on google) but this showed me what I wanted to know for troubleshooting.
I've got the 3/4" version of this valve on my house. New valve is $75 on Amazon. Rebuild Kit is $69. It doesn't make sense to buy the rebuild kit...but I certainly could save a few bucks using the "kludge" you describe... Thanks for the video!!
Thanks for the video! You have given me another idea on how to rebuild my regulator. I bought a knew pressure regulator to replace the old one but plan on rebuilding the old one to have as a spare. And you are absolutely right on the price jump once you get into the 1-1/2" size.
Yes, it is a bit verbose but the delivery is smooth and doesn't insult with arrogance. I found it educational. I've been involved with the home remodeling business for 40+ yrs. Done quite a bit of plumbing. I replace PRVs. They don't cost what you were quoted. While I compliment you "kludging" that washer, this isn't always easy. You can get them "out of round". I've done both. But, since it worked for you, kudos. I would offer this advice: be VERY careful when working on a PRV (or any valve) while it's still connected to the copper pipe. It's easy to over torque a wrench on a nut and break or bend a soldered connection above or below the unit. Take the PRV off and work on it .. on a bench. Plumbing requires balance. Copper is unforgiving when bent.
I would've bought the kit just for preventive maintenance. You didn't need to buy a whole new unit so I agree with that. You may very well be back fixing this thing a lot sooner with your hack or kluge. My guess is the kit included everything other than that heavy housing. So just replace everything inside and it would be just like having a whole new unit. The real cost is the plumber's labor and you saved that. Your time alone is worth more than $87 isn't it? I enjoyed your video. My Watts N45B (discontinued) must be clogged because my water pressure was down to 32 PSI but then I adjusted it as much as possible and got it up to 42 PSI. My guess is that it is gradually going back down. I'll just replace the whole thing with the 3/4 LFN45BM1-U because the LF means it is Lead Free. It was only $68.36 at Lowes, including tax. If the old one was lead free then I would've just tried cleaning the screen. I'm hoping the installer put in union nuts so it will be easy to replace if watts kept the same housing as the N45B, which would make sense for all the N45B owners such as myself. My research on the web said that these water pressure regulators only last between 10 and 15 years. My regulator is 12 years old so it is due for replacement/repair. A week ago I didn't even realize that I had a water regulator. I called the water company and she said my water pressure regulator is probably bad. I've been researching all this ever since and feel a lot more confident now. The water line coming in from the meter at the road in 1" polyethylene pipe buried 3 feet deep. Anything above ground is wrapped with heat tape then wrapped with insulation and then sealed with tape. You keep that heat tape plugged in so the water line doesn't freeze. I live in a singlewide so the water line comes up out of the ground under the home and then goes through the belly-wrap (black plastic sheeting with insulation on top that covers the entire bottom of the home). So anything below the belly-wrap and above the ground is subject to freezing. So I'm not going to mess with it until this spring when I don't have to worry about the water line freezing in case I need to order a different size regulator. The Watts web site says the regulator "comes in a variety of end connections including: threaded, solder, PEX, quick-connect and CPVC with both union and double union connections." I've got the 3/4 inch threaded connection with one union, which is all that Lowes had in stock. So I'm hoping the installer just used an adapter to go from 1 inch PE pipe to 3/4 inch threaded brass male pipe thread fitting and used double union connections. If the pressure drops too low before this spring then I'll have to just try cleaning the screen on the old N45B. I wouldn't have to remove any of the heat tape to do that. Everything unscrews similar to what you showed but unlike your regulator, I can just lift everything out from one side. There is nothing to unscrew on the other side. I already practiced on my new unit so I know how to do it.
MacGyver must be so proud! I luv your running commentary and hear a lot of my thought process in your approach. I’m a Harbor Freight guy myself, but apparently you buy most of your tools from the “Handy Dandy TM” company 😀. While everything you did was logical and straightforward, I have found these units on eBay for
Excellent but rather lengthy video with good explanations. I now feel prepared to try it on my son's home with him helping and learning. Thanks, Make-believe-jack-of-all-trades.
Thank you for an inspiring and informative video. This gives me another thing to check on a home where the pressure drops when more than one faucet is opened.
This was interesting. I appreciate the effort you put into fixing your regulator and saving the cost of the repair cut. I hope the job holds up for a lease another 13 years.
Thanks for the video. It inspired me to either fix (or replace)our pressure regulator. (I've purchased a new Watts) one. But was also the existing's replacement parts (service kit: piston, washers, union nut and union tail piece). Thanks again.
1 1/4" sure seems large for a prv located at the house. Most house connections are 3/4 or 1", depending on how many bathrooms you have. If you have high pressure (over 70 lb.) On the house service line, you could use a 3/4 or 1" prv valve at the house and just reduce the pipe service connection from 1 1/4 to your house size of 3/4 or 1". The 3/4 and 1" prv valves are way less expensive than 1 1/4" prv valves. Also the 3/4 prv valve I use at my place has unions on it. I just turn the water off, unscrew the onions and replace the whole valve. Quick and inexpensive, especially if its above ground. I like your drawings.
I just replaced my pressure reducing valve and shut off ball valve. Replaced with shark bite push fitting units. New pressure valve 68$, ball valve 29$, some pex pipe 5$, pressure checker 13$. Retailer Home Depot. Long story short, 120$ and 15 minutes of my time, done and done. Pressure was 110, now 45 psi. I can adjust up to 75 but 45 is working well for my needs. Plumber 600$, sure. 🤔
nice to hear you fixed your 1 1/4" regulator with a few 'hacks'... i put the factory repair kit on one of the houses i maintain and it didn't hold. had the same issue you did with the diaphragm nut not wanting to release and ended up having to loosen the disk holder to pull the shaft out from the wrong side. noticed right away the O-ring slot was devoid of it's piece so i'm thinking, "right on! this will be an easy fix". only in a perfect world. grrrr.. before i started, i had noticed the paint was chipped off the bolt heads that hold the bell to the regulator. even though the edges of the diaphragm were still covered in paint meaning it hadn't been replaced (yet), i should've picked up that someone had altered the settings of this regulator. after putting the unit back together, slowly opened the valve and with the adjustment nut backed out, had about 5 psi.... started increasing the pressure and once i got past 50, you could hear the water force it's way thru and stop at the street pressure of 150 psi. i took it apart and tightened everything i could and ended up with the same result once it was back under pressure. only thing i can think of is someone had increased the pressure on this house above the 50-75 psi recommended by the manufacturer and over the years, the inside tolerances have been worn by the water flow under the increased pressure. instead of installing a $60 repair kit (uh... that's what they're designed for), i'm out $60, my time and now have to tell the owner they need to cough up another $230 plus tax and shipping for a new regulator because some jack wagon messed with something they shouldn't have messed with in the first place. thanks for the video. it's nice to see ( or maybe not so nice), someone had the same issues i did. 'cept you got the better results. ;) lol
Keay, yeah I got lucky (so far) and my cheap fix is still holding. I checked the pressure last week and it was OK. One of the comments early on was about the composition of the rings I used but as they were part of a sprinkler system anti-siphon valve I expected them to work equally well in this application, and they do.
I was amused by your instructions. I bought a 3/4” valve only to return it for a 1” version. Too bad, it cost $50 more at HD. Then I thought, there must be kits for this. And they’re online $52. But now that I see what you did, well, what the heck I’ll give it a try.
Thanks for posting this excellent video. My watts regulator is not working properly. Your video shows me what is involved in repairing it. Very clearly presented info. Thanks
@@iqmicro I have a PRV with one bonnet, so I had to cut the pipe and use compression fittings to install the new one. Had to get a plumber bc those tools are expensive
very nice video My pressure reads 145 My water heater has been leaking from the over flow and my handle stopped flushing on my sloan toilet. I think you just saved me some money if I can find the pressure regulater thank you
I totally enjoyed your detailed video. Your thinking is a lot like mine. I was working on my boiler yesterday and fixed the leaking Bell & Gossett 790-30 relief valve with a garden hose washer. That relief valve is not adjustable, so the thickness of the washer will raise the escape threshold. I'm wondering what material the hose washer is made of and if it will last.
Thank you for making the video. Mine wasn't working and got a replacement. Once I opened up the old one, the spring, nuts were all rusted. Surprised they didn't use the stainless steel/brass parts inside. Too much work to replace all the parts.
It's a matter of choice and it also depends on how much fix vs replace costs. I just replaced mine and put a new video up about doing it. Replacement for units 3/4" and below retail for under $100, but my 1 1/4" was over $400 and the 1 1/2" units are over $500.
@@otd80 agreed. I estimate how much time I need to put in, research for the parts (not sure if it's going to fit), shipping time and the time to replace the parts vs replace the whole item. Mine is 1-1/4 and I bought the one with fittings ($450, tax + shipping) which I don't need fittings. DIY is always cheaper than hiring a plumber to replace it.
There is a step I've seen in other repair videos that you omitted - putting silicon plumber's grease on the new rubber parts. I'm going to replace mine next week. Luckily for me it's the less expensive 3/4 XL70.
Well this video is now 7 years old, in rebuilt pressure regulator age I am guessing you have replaced it or had to rebuild again. I bought one of those gauges with a red secondhand, red hand on 110 in the morning and pressure was 70 to 80. I called the city, two guys came out,checked the pressure,80 lbs. I was think the city had a pressure regulator in my meter box. The guys told me the water pressure coming out of the plant was 56 lbs. and the city has no pressure regulators anywhere. So now I am looking at buying a regulator. By the way nice presentation.
Good video,hopefully you used petroleum jelly on the bottom and the top where the parts screw together in case you ever need to disassemble the parts again.I feel your pain,I recently ordered a repair kit for my PRV and it cost me $63.00 plus $12.00 for flat rate shipping and I'm still waiting because the plumbing supplier that I ordered from has no idea when the repair kit will be sent to them for them to then ship the repair kit to me.Thanks again for the video,God bless you and yours.
In terms of less than ten bucks, that's only if you leave out the cost of your time and labor, including research and driving places to buy tools. I can get a brand new Watts PRV for around $100 more or less, so the time it would take to repair a very old one + the cost of the repair kit vs. simply replacing it ends up pointing to replacement.
Whew, repair kit prices have gone up quite a bit (about $120), and I can't tell what model I have either. I think I might have to go with this kludge on our house too, we hit 170psi last night, not sure how much more our pipes can take!
I’m stuck not on removing the nut and diaphragm, but instead unthreading the stem assembly as a whole. I have a good hold on that 35mm nut you referred to, but can’t loosen it and have gummed up the screw slot a bit. Any tips?
That was thermal expansion happening. When you open a faucet it releases the extra pressure in the pipes - Notice the needle dropped to 60. The regulator was fine. The reason the needle went up is because the prv creates a Closed Water system & that's why you NEED the expansion tank.
Kudos on your "Kluge"... yes I'm that old also... I know that it must have taken you a fair amount of time to prepare your photos and diagrams so, thank you.
Randy O. Thanks for the comment. Yes, many of our posts take considerable time to produce but it does keep us engaged with the software and eclectic subjects of interest. We'll have some more up shortly on subjects unrelated to this one. How we make Crunchy Cream Tuna on Biscuits and some 1943 video of My Grandfather's Gravely Walk-behind Tractor are in the works now. Both are Eclectic and Tangible. Look for them "at a theater or drive-in near you soon"...and if that phrase sounds familiar...you actually may be nearly as old as the guy typing it.
This is an awesome DIY, thank you. In my case I developed a leak on the filter plug, do not know how that happened, but the pressure certainly ate away on the brass plug and finally developed a needle hole leak and eventually got bigger. Now is that piece available as a single purchase, you would say yes, but I will find out soon. Thanksagain.
Great video! What if your pressure regulator doesn’t seem to be regulating the pressure? I have a loosen the bolt out but it continues to be too high of a pressure at about 85 psi. Does that mean the spring is just old or could the diaphragm be broken or something?
It's definitely "something." Here's my SWAG as to what that may be. Either the rubber O rings are no longer sealing properly thus allowing "street pressure" of 80 psi to constantly leak thru -OR- the O ring bearing shaft that moves to counter street pressure is frozen in an open position. Unlikely to be a leaking diaphragm if there's no water coming from the bell housing. Either scenario would require repair/replacement of the regulator. We recently posted a update to this video showing how we replaced this "repaired" unit with a new one. It's fast and easy, but very expensive if it's the same size as this one.
I had a water leak coming from the ceiling and onto a smoke detector. The guy came and after 647 bucks I got two tee unions changed. I am seeing (my wife noticed this before this leak happened) that the water pressure is higher than normal. So now I know after watching your video that I need to measure the pressure with a gauge and then check the regulator. The house is only 3 years old so it might only need to be adjusted (the regulator)
The black rock stuff is called magnetite. It is also known as black rust. The only difference between black and red rust is whether or not there is the presence of oxygen.
We did finally replace it after 10 years. Depends on the size of the regulator and your local labor charges as to how much a replacement actually costs. Here's our replacement vid th-cam.com/video/GRpvqcRfjTM/w-d-xo.html
Ian Fenty Thanks for the word fix. Looks like I was a klutz about spelling kluge. It would have been a better vid if I'd photo'd the parts when disassembled but I was focused on getting it reassembled asap. Didn't think my wife would appreciate going down to the beach for a salt water bath if I didn't get it all put back together quickly.
I found pressure reducers on Alibaba for around $15 (fifteen ) and it includes a pressure gauge. (ten years ago) They are also easier to fix. Two "O"rings and a rubber washer. It also includes an allen wrench to adjust the pressure. I found the adjustment rather tricky. It needs to be done very little at a time. and re-adjusted after the washer has been worn in. PS: what you buy at HD comes from China anyway.. 3/4" pressure reducer+ $100.- You may also have noticed that the pressure relieve valve at the water heater failed, as they always do. Another POS from Watts. About ten years ago I devised a pro-active fail save pressure reducer for about thirty dollar and it provides total peace of mind. I will search if anyone else has done a video on it. If not, I might publish my contraptions. (I designed two different ones)
Probably better to buy a new unit for this application, unless you need to do soldering to replace it and don't have the tools/skill. In my situation, I have a 1/2 " low-pressure regulator for my hot water heating system. A standard pressure reducing regulator is indeed quite cheap, about the same price as a rebuild kit. However, the LP (low pressure) version, which is exactly the same, except with a Teflon diaphragm protector, and an extra spring, costs 3-5 times as much, if you can find one. The rebuild kits are the same. You may have to buy the Teflon protector separately. In the 1/2 " version, the nut is 25 mm (1" will work). The LP version works 10-35 psi. Paid USD 44.97 on eBay for a rebuild kit. P.S. I have an old house and there is no pressure regulator. I think someone removed it at some point. My household pressure is around 120 psi. Can't imagine what it would be like at 55-60 psi.
Great descriptive video! TY Wish i saw this video before wasting alot of money on a plumber who replaced my high quality Watts with a cheap plastic bell china knock off. Next time ill fix it my self
There is nothing “illegal” about having your water heater installed by an unlicensed plumber, and it is very easy for any buyer’s home inspector to see whether it’s been done correctly.
I have the same quandary, where my tag says 1-1/4", but the dimensions do not match that. Specifically, the "bell housing" is ~3-15/16", which is closer to the 4-1/16" of the 1-1/2" valve (according to Watts spec sheet) than the 3-5/8", but not exactly. Did you measure the ID, OD, and thickness of the Disc? O-ring?
The tag on the unit (1 1/4) is the number to use for either replacing the entire (expensive) unit or the repair kit (also expensive). There is only one repair kit for the (LeadFree) LF25AUB-Z3-S (Solder) - DU (Double Union). It's easy to get completely confused relative to the external sizes and connection types (male/female/solder/threaded) if replacing the unit, but the kit for all is Order Code 0864944 Repair Kit Number 1 1/4 LF25AUB-RK. Here's a retail site I've used when I can't find stuff locally. (www.supplyhouse.com/Watts-0864944-1-1-4-25AUB-RK-Repair-Kit). It may be the one you've referenced because the kit is $101.98. You'll notice the "Manual" gives no dimensions for the rubber parts. If you're just trying to make your own rubber replacements; I didn't measure the rubber sprinkler parts...just kept removing material with a razor to make the big disc fit and then looked thru my junk drawer to find an O ring of suitable size and thickness.
@@otd80 Thanks. BTW, I took off the cover for the screen, and mine did have a seal. Not a gasket, but what seems to be a narrow o-ring (maybe 1mm) recessed in a groove in the cover, barely protruding from flush. I lubed it up on the protruding surface, and it sealed back just fine.
Hah... my house also "aged"... I myself have installed the water pressure regulator in 2006 when the water heater was leaking too much. Last week I had a plumber come over to check a leak in the inlet and he let some dirty come inside the pipe and that messed up the regulator. The water pressure is great now (approx 80 psi ) but I'd rather have it around 65-70 psi max. I have fumbled with trying to adjust but it's very erratic... a maintenance is in order now. You did a great write up on repairing the dang thing. I'm gonna check mine to see if I can redo your steps.Thanks.
new rubber ring ( the small one)The rubber may be a low quality and will last a shorter time. That kind of thing has been my experience on other things. Nice project with a hint of what can easily occur. I can never explain to the wife the stuff that happens with all the trips to town back and forth. This is why you may see lots of stuff in my garage cause you really never know when you save something that will come in handy saving the trip to town or savins in money. many times its just easier to pay for it out of pocket . These projects accumulate in the psyche to the point of breaking.
Thank you for your video.. Question: If the city pressure measured at the meter is 50 psi can I still increase the pressure by adjusting the PRM? Say to 60 psi?
+Carlos Lopez Sorry Carlos, the regulator can only reduce high pressure to a lower pressure. The only way to increase your house pressure is to install a pump and that would only work if the city supply capacity is large enough coming to your house. It's a pretty simple equation. Low pressure with large volume + pump = high pressure with smaller volume.
I have no idea what the manufacturers warrantees are but I can say that in our development it appears that around the 12 to 15 year mark the internal rubber parts start failing. This (in addition to crappy copper piping used in many of the tracts in our very large development) has no doubt contributed to the many instances of re-piping and epoxy sealing needed to fix leaks from poorly regulated pressure. Perhaps the water quality also has an effect because I've noticed that replacement toilet valves enjoy brisk sales at the local hardware store. I've replaced the flap-doodles in every toilet in the house at least once over this time frame.
I have my valve set for 70 ps. When I turn on water, I have great pressure but then over 5 minutes the pressure drops to 20 ps. ( I have no leaks) Could a bad PRV cause this? New hot water heater was installed a few months back.
My GUESS is you have a flow restriction before the regulator. Imagine the pipe going into the regulator is the size of a soda straw. If no water is being used in your house the straw's very restricted GPM would still allow the regulator (and house pipes) to gradually build up toward the street pressure and then operate to hold the house at 70psi. When you turn on a tap, the existing pipe pressure (and perhaps any expansion devices) would provide an initial flow that diminishes down to what ever amount can then be provided by the soda straw's small volume per minute. Old galvanized pipe was notorious for this kind of thing...or...a valve is not fully open in the feed from the street. (Did the plumber installing the new heater turn ALL the supply valves on after install?)...or...the water meter at the street is failing. I'm not a plumber (don't even play one on TV) but I'm older than dirt and have worked in many equally generic houses with this kind of problem so, that's my best SWAG.
Thanks for posting this video! I loved it! I am however extremely worried about your hot water heater blowing up again if that PRV goes in say 6 months to a year. I think you did a great job making those rubber rings, but did you notice what they're made out of? If you ordered that kit from Watts your rings would be made out of EPDM cured rubber which can withstand the affects of chlorine over time. I know you don't want another explosion so you should put in the higher quality rings and save yourself future suffering. EPDM- Ethylene Propylene Diene Monamer Peroxide curing these polymers gives a higher crosslink density compared with their amorphous counterpart. With peroxide cures, the diene (or third monomer) functions as a coagent, which provides resistance to unwanted tackiness, creep, or flow during end use. Very useful in a High Chlorine environment, but not useful for most oils, gasoline, kerosene, or other hydrocarbons.
PointSourceMedia Thanks for the tech info about the rubber. I don't know what the sprinkler anti-siphon rings I used are made of but they too are exposed to the same chlorinated water we're drinking so I hope the'll hold up as well. Next time I'm at the store I'll check the kit I bought and see if they list the rubber type. I'll certainly keep an eye on the PSI and probably break down and get the repair kit...if I can ever figure out which one to order. It's an easy fix with the correct parts. Just a point of clarification, the tank never blew up, it just developed a corrosion leak after 15 years. Even if my possible non-EPDM rings prematurely fail, the street pressure is generally around 115 and the tank valve operates around 150, so other than stressing the pipes once again I don't expect it to launch from its pedestal...I hope.
I'm a water operator and to repair/rebuild several PRVs annually. It doesn't matter what series PRV you have as long as you know your model and size of PRV, the rebuild kit is the same. Watts (size) LF25AUB-xxxxx all have the same internal parts, though some kits might include plastic, stainless, or brass versions of the same replaceable parts.
Somebody asked about the o rings on Amazon. Watts replied "O-Ring is Uniform dash #123. Dimensions are 1 3/8 inch OD x 1 3/16 inch ID x 3/32 inch thick. Material is EPDM. All I could find that size was Nitrile Rubber or 123 Buna-N. This is the O-Ring that forms a seal at the 3/4 inch threaded brass union.
if the rubber diaphragm is torn and water is dripping into the bell housing like mine is will the water pressure still be getting regulated properly to the house ?
+Matowix Hard to say but my guess on both questions is ... yes the big diaphragm has a leak and it's probably a small one that closes when it moves a little and it may still be regulating adequately ... but even if it is, it's unlikely to do so for much longer. You should get it fixed before the diaphragm tears completely. It's also likely that if the rubber of this part is so old that it's leaking, the other seals are also worn and corroded. Time to fix or replace.
+Matowix The only way to know what is going on with the pressure is to go to a local plumbing supply and get the parts to make a screw-on pressure gauge - the gauge itself, a fitting to screw on to an *outside water faucet* and a bushing to join them + pipe dope or white Teflon tape (yellow Teflon tape is for gas connections). Depending on the local water pressure, you gauge should read a minimum of 100 psi, or go for one that reads up to 150psi or 200psi. Having one is the only way to adjust your pressure, if needed, and it will tell if your regulator is 'bleeding' pressure - limiting water flow at the set point but allowing pressure to build past that point after water flow stops - 2 to 3 minutes.
I have some problems with my water pressure I can not use the sink and shower at same time because the pressure will go down immediately is not just my first floor same its with my basement. I have noticed that I have 3/4 new main line, PRV, check valve and shut off valve are new too but I saw something that I don't understand and it looks weird for me because between my new PRV and 3/4 old pipe galvanized there is small 1/2 inch reducing fitting I do not understand why is there if my water system pipe its 3/4 maybe you may give some advices or someone else can explain me this.
Jorge Montalvo I'm not a plumber, although it may appear I play one on TV. The best I can do is a S.W.A.G to suggest that the real low pressure problem is not just a restriction from the weirdly installed reducer but an overall restriction in the galvanized plumbing of the whole house. Depending on how old it is, and the chemical composition of the water, I've seen rust and corrosion in old galvanized pipe that reduces the inside diameter to less than an eight of an inch. I've lived in A LOT of old houses and this was a common issue with old galvanized plumbing. Unfortunately, no cheap easy fix if this is the problem.
+Jorge Montalvo Sounds like the 1/2" reducing fitting is used to join the 3/4" galvanized pipe to a 1/2" PRV outlet. Some joker just used that instead of a 3/4" PRV. Regardless, a 1/2" reducer would not dramatically restrict the water volume with decent pressure behind it. Unless your PRV inlet screen has become severely clogged, Noesslic's explanation make sense, Get the PRV screen checked first!
Hey I’m the best in west service plumber up here Vancouver Island and that guy was totally going to rip you off for his prv swap here it’s about a 20 min job at the most an hr so 200 bucks would get ya a new one installed
Wow, $3k for a water heater? I sold water heaters with installations until a couple years ago and it wouldn't have been much more than $1,000 for a 75 gallon with install.
![SAFEPLANET - ดาวเคราะห์ [ THE PLANET ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4X1XL3I_k3c/mqdefault.jpg)
Great Job! Thanks for doing it. The wood you were looking for is '
kludge /kloo͞j/ noun
1. A system, especially a computer system, that is constituted of poorly matched elements or of elements originally intended for other applications.
2. A clumsy or inelegant solution to a problem.
3. An improvised device, usually crudely constructed. Typically used to test the validity of a principle before doing a finished design.
This guy is a real genuine character who has a neat sense of humor and is a champion kludger. Three cheers for him, his gentlemanly altruism, and this clip. Now I have 2 Watts and 2 Wilkins regulators to overhaul for my beloved neighbors who are elderly and on fixed incomes.
Did it work? :)
@@RogerPack The effort was not worth it. One worked; two did not. So I went and bought 3 new pressure reducers at the local plumbing supply house. They were cheap enough. I donated them and installed them without charge for 3 old women who were living in poverty. These devices don't last long here because of the high mineral content of our city water supply.
@@KOLODNY95 cool. Two rebuilds didn't work? :)
You did a wonderful job of explaining all the hacking and clooging without pictures. The part of having to resized the rubber washers must have been complicated. Congratulations you understood all that needed to be done and did it wonderfully, having to overcome that many "challenges". I'm glad at the end all that effort it paid you back, the valve worked fine again for many years to come and you saved some money.
This was a great video. After watching it, I finally understood what might be wrong with my pressure regulator. It gave me the confidence to open it up. I found that the sliding pin/bolt was stuck almost closed on a bit of corrosion. Mine was a new unit (a year old)so the seals were all fine. Just needed to sand a bit of corrosion off , reassemble and now I have water pressure again in my workshop. My regulator is to reduce our well water supply so that it works for a radiant heat system. I thought the lack of photos would be an issue but you explained and illustrated everything clearly. The humor was also appreciated. Well done.
Thank you so much! The cutaway diagram and your explanation makes the problem and solution very clear.
Yes - the rebuild kits are grossly expensive.
Nice, very effective kludge (note the official spelling as I define it).
great job on the video, i watched it twice....i just finished doing essentially the same thing on same model, saved me lots of time and money... free rustic shelter space for a day or two, with running water, if ever on the big island....:-)
Cool, thanks!
WELL DONE you have taught me how they work as I have mine to look at because the shower does not have the pressure it once had.
I appreciate this video, not ready to upgrade the plumbing in the house yet and this temporary fix solved the problem. Thorough explanation made this project go by quick and saved the day!
Thank you so much. My recently replaced HWH TP valve was seeping and I was wracking my brains on why!! Turns out my water pressure regulator had a broken o ring and I was getting around 130PSI into the house. Yep you read that right. I bought a new one from lowes and then saw your video and and decided to take it apart. I used a makeshift o ring and it works. Now getting 60 psi into the house. Many thanks again sir!
I built my house 19 years ago when I installed the regulator. The street is ~100psi. I had set the regulator at 80psi. I know the cautions of this but had no problems till now. The home is sold, but before we close the sale, I need to set the psi in the house to the standard. But the regulator won't do its job anymore. The pressure gauge reads 90psi till another faucet is opened then it drops to ~20psi. Any adjustment only changes the low end. The faucets open at 90psi then quickly drops. This is a perfect case also to rebuild a regulator. How many hundreds of dollars did you say? Well, like you, I hate writing checks to smiling plumbers. Until I'm the smiling plumber, then that check needs to be written. Before the interweb thing, we had to work as an apprentice to learn this stuff. STILL, THANKS FOR ALL YOUR EFFORT INTO THIS PRODUCTION!
Next house will be mortgage free!
I like how a certain type of person will criticize others for providing a service taking time from their own life and pay it forward too others - I salute people who do this as a volunteer -- the ones who will complain I do not see them taking the time and producing any thing -- so I can complain what they do - this happens to my video on music also --
There are always professional "complainers" in everything. He did some great explaining and all he deserves is gratitude, in my opinion. You can always slide forward if you are that impatient and timeless fellow. It was very describing, and I liked it.
@@ccv3237 or play at 1.75x speed. Works great. It's a lot faster to listen than to speak.
We've had a few suggestions that it would have been easier and cheaper to replace the unit (typically given as $85 or less) rather than fix the old one. That would be a rational move for a 3/4 inch or smaller unit. Once you move to a 1 1/2 inch unit, the price JUMPS UP BIG TIME, no matter what the gravitational pull is on the planet you're from. Furthermore, until you pull the old one off, there's no way to tell precisely which couplings are required (because there are several variations) for the new one. Until you know that, kind'a tricky to order the right one and wait for it to arrive without putting the bad old one back on to keep water available in one's home. Thanks for all the comments, even the ones not well researched.
There are two reasons why replacing is better. First, lead free. Old unit contains lead upto 8%. New unit contains lead less than 0.25%. Second, it's cheaper as you said (I agree with you. 3/4" model only). HomeDepot sells LF25AUB-S-DU for $50. It's not listed on their website, but they sell it in store.
great posting! I just changed out the same regulator have done a lot of home work that might help too. First off I paid 325 bucks for an I dentical part number because my piping was all brass nipples no copper outside wall. Went to install it and though it would be a no brainer as the watts service center I called on phone assured me a perfect fit . Well it wasent Woulda used a much cheaper unit had i known I would be in such a mess. Ok Mr noessl;ic I found out that the pictures online at watts dont match the actual product thats why it looked differant a double union regulator is the same as a single unin regulator except it has a malethreaded union installed on one end. (its not noticeable looking at it but the top union is removeable) . Any way I am a plumber but never screwed around rebuilding but now I had 2 watts reg and one wilkins old ones in garage and they were simple to disassemble and now I understand how they work and will rebuild regulators at times cuz it is so easy Thanks Mr Noesslc. BTW the end caps have an oring its not brass to brass but its very hard to see. Also smart repair you made but I will usea kit because I will charge 2 or so labor just not worth my time but for my own property or emergency you got great idea!!
Have this same pressure regulator and followed your instructions! Worked perfectly!! Thank you!!
After 6 years I think the parts became too corroded to move correctly. I just replaced the whole unit. See new vid I just posted, Watts Water Pressure Regulator Replacement Of Previously Repaired One.
Hey, you are a marvelous teacher. Your teaching style and materials are great. Thanks a lot, I am hooked to see more of your videos and learn how my house works. Thanks again.
Always appreciate a video that teaches how something works before suggesting what to do with it. I don't have the same valve (I can't even find the model on google) but this showed me what I wanted to know for troubleshooting.
Glad to help
I've got the 3/4" version of this valve on my house. New valve is $75 on Amazon. Rebuild Kit is $69. It doesn't make sense to buy the rebuild kit...but I certainly could save a few bucks using the "kludge" you describe... Thanks for the video!!
Thanks for the video! You have given me another idea on how to rebuild my regulator. I bought a knew pressure regulator to replace the old one but plan on rebuilding the old one to have as a spare. And you are absolutely right on the price jump once you get into the 1-1/2" size.
Fantastic vid my friend. Thanks for taking the time to help us all.
Yes, it is a bit verbose but the delivery is smooth and doesn't insult with arrogance. I found it educational. I've been involved with the home remodeling business for 40+ yrs. Done quite a bit of plumbing. I replace PRVs. They don't cost what you were quoted. While I compliment you "kludging" that washer, this isn't always easy. You can get them "out of round". I've done both. But, since it worked for you, kudos. I would offer this advice: be VERY careful when working on a PRV (or any valve) while it's still connected to the copper pipe. It's easy to over torque a wrench on a nut and break or bend a soldered connection above or below the unit. Take the PRV off and work on it .. on a bench. Plumbing requires balance. Copper is unforgiving when bent.
I would've bought the kit just for preventive maintenance. You didn't need to buy a whole new unit so I agree with that. You may very well be back fixing this thing a lot sooner with your hack or kluge. My guess is the kit included everything other than that heavy housing. So just replace everything inside and it would be just like having a whole new unit. The real cost is the plumber's labor and you saved that. Your time alone is worth more than $87 isn't it? I enjoyed your video.
My Watts N45B (discontinued) must be clogged because my water pressure was down to 32 PSI but then I adjusted it as much as possible and got it up to 42 PSI. My guess is that it is gradually going back down. I'll just replace the whole thing with the 3/4 LFN45BM1-U because the LF means it is Lead Free. It was only $68.36 at Lowes, including tax. If the old one was lead free then I would've just tried cleaning the screen. I'm hoping the installer put in union nuts so it will be easy to replace if watts kept the same housing as the N45B, which would make sense for all the N45B owners such as myself. My research on the web said that these water pressure regulators only last between 10 and 15 years. My regulator is 12 years old so it is due for replacement/repair. A week ago I didn't even realize that I had a water regulator. I called the water company and she said my water pressure regulator is probably bad. I've been researching all this ever since and feel a lot more confident now.
The water line coming in from the meter at the road in 1" polyethylene pipe buried 3 feet deep. Anything above ground is wrapped with heat tape then wrapped with insulation and then sealed with tape. You keep that heat tape plugged in so the water line doesn't freeze. I live in a singlewide so the water line comes up out of the ground under the home and then goes through the belly-wrap (black plastic sheeting with insulation on top that covers the entire bottom of the home). So anything below the belly-wrap and above the ground is subject to freezing. So I'm not going to mess with it until this spring when I don't have to worry about the water line freezing in case I need to order a different size regulator.
The Watts web site says the regulator "comes in a variety of end connections including: threaded, solder, PEX, quick-connect and CPVC with both union and double union connections." I've got the 3/4 inch threaded connection with one union, which is all that Lowes had in stock. So I'm hoping the installer just used an adapter to go from 1 inch PE pipe to 3/4 inch threaded brass male pipe thread fitting and used double union connections. If the pressure drops too low before this spring then I'll have to just try cleaning the screen on the old N45B. I wouldn't have to remove any of the heat tape to do that. Everything unscrews similar to what you showed but unlike your regulator, I can just lift everything out from one side. There is nothing to unscrew on the other side. I already practiced on my new unit so I know how to do it.
MacGyver must be so proud! I luv your running commentary and hear a lot of my thought process in your approach. I’m a Harbor Freight guy myself, but apparently you buy most of your tools from the “Handy Dandy TM” company 😀. While everything you did was logical and straightforward, I have found these units on eBay for
Excellent but rather lengthy video with good explanations. I now feel prepared to try it on my son's home with him helping and learning. Thanks, Make-believe-jack-of-all-trades.
Thank you for an inspiring and informative video. This gives me another thing to check on a home where the pressure drops when more than one faucet is opened.
This was interesting. I appreciate the effort you put into fixing your regulator and saving the cost of the repair cut. I hope the job holds up for a lease another 13 years.
Google says it’s a kluge, sir! Thank you for taking the time to share your experience.
Amazing. This is probably just how I would have approached this being a tool and do it yourself person
Thanks for the video. It inspired me to either fix (or replace)our pressure regulator. (I've purchased a new Watts) one. But was also the existing's replacement parts (service kit: piston, washers, union nut and union tail piece). Thanks again.
1 1/4" sure seems large for a prv located at the house. Most house connections are 3/4 or 1", depending on how many bathrooms you have. If you have high pressure (over 70 lb.) On the house service line, you could use a 3/4 or 1" prv valve at the house and just reduce the pipe service connection from 1 1/4 to your house size of 3/4 or 1". The 3/4 and 1" prv valves are way less expensive than 1 1/4" prv valves. Also the 3/4 prv valve I use at my place has unions on it. I just turn the water off, unscrew the onions and replace the whole valve. Quick and inexpensive, especially if its above ground. I like your drawings.
I just replaced my pressure reducing valve and shut off ball valve. Replaced with shark bite push fitting units. New pressure valve 68$, ball valve 29$, some pex pipe 5$, pressure checker 13$. Retailer Home Depot.
Long story short, 120$ and 15 minutes of my time, done and done.
Pressure was 110, now 45 psi. I can adjust up to 75 but 45 is working well for my needs.
Plumber 600$, sure. 🤔
You kick butt on this! Congratulations on thinking through the problem!
nice to hear you fixed your 1 1/4" regulator with a few 'hacks'... i put the factory repair kit on one of the houses i maintain and it didn't hold. had the same issue you did with the diaphragm nut not wanting to release and ended up having to loosen the disk holder to pull the shaft out from the wrong side. noticed right away the O-ring slot was devoid of it's piece so i'm thinking, "right on! this will be an easy fix". only in a perfect world. grrrr..
before i started, i had noticed the paint was chipped off the bolt heads that hold the bell to the regulator. even though the edges of the diaphragm were still covered in paint meaning it hadn't been replaced (yet), i should've picked up that someone had altered the settings of this regulator.
after putting the unit back together, slowly opened the valve and with the adjustment nut backed out, had about 5 psi.... started increasing the pressure and once i got past 50, you could hear the water force it's way thru and stop at the street pressure of 150 psi. i took it apart and tightened everything i could and ended up with the same result once it was back under pressure.
only thing i can think of is someone had increased the pressure on this house above the 50-75 psi recommended by the manufacturer and over the years, the inside tolerances have been worn by the water flow under the increased pressure.
instead of installing a $60 repair kit (uh... that's what they're designed for), i'm out $60, my time and now have to tell the owner they need to cough up another $230 plus tax and shipping for a new regulator because some jack wagon messed with something they shouldn't have messed with in the first place.
thanks for the video. it's nice to see ( or maybe not so nice), someone had the same issues i did. 'cept you got the better results. ;) lol
Keay, yeah I got lucky (so far) and my cheap fix is still holding. I checked the pressure last week and it was OK. One of the comments early on was about the composition of the rings I used but as they were part of a sprinkler system anti-siphon valve I expected them to work equally well in this application, and they do.
I was amused by your instructions. I bought a 3/4” valve only to return it for a 1” version. Too bad, it cost $50 more at HD. Then I thought, there must be kits for this. And they’re online $52. But now that I see what you did, well, what the heck I’ll give it a try.
You are a genius! I appreciate all the information and the step by step on this video, plus your very good sense of humor 😊
Excellent, well thought out video. Thanks for your hard work helping out us DIYers.
Thanks for posting this excellent video. My watts regulator is not working properly. Your video shows me what is involved in repairing it. Very clearly presented info. Thanks
Buck Rodgers Thanks Buck, I think most of us DIY folks do a lot of searching before opening up a mysterious box. Glad I could help you out.
Very informative video MacGyver, thank you. I went ahead and bought a whole new PRV and hope I can get it installed tomorrow
Did u replace yours how did it go? Tks
@@iqmicro I have a PRV with one bonnet, so I had to cut the pipe and use compression fittings to install the new one. Had to get a plumber bc those tools are expensive
@@TheCodesterr tks
very nice video My pressure reads 145 My water heater has been leaking from the over flow and my handle stopped flushing on my sloan toilet. I think you just saved me some money if I can find the pressure regulater thank you
I love your hack. You used your brans and saved your money = fun.
3k??? Omgosh! Well thanks for the vid and enjoy the geiser rides while you can, im right behind you. 😄
I totally enjoyed your detailed video. Your thinking is a lot like mine. I was working on my boiler yesterday and fixed the leaking Bell & Gossett 790-30 relief valve with a garden hose washer. That relief valve is not adjustable, so the thickness of the washer will raise the escape threshold. I'm wondering what material the hose washer is made of and if it will last.
Thank you for making the video. Mine wasn't working and got a replacement. Once I opened up the old one, the spring, nuts were all rusted. Surprised they didn't use the stainless steel/brass parts inside. Too much work to replace all the parts.
It's a matter of choice and it also depends on how much fix vs replace costs. I just replaced mine and put a new video up about doing it. Replacement for units 3/4" and below retail for under $100, but my 1 1/4" was over $400 and the 1 1/2" units are over $500.
@@otd80 agreed. I estimate how much time I need to put in, research for the parts (not sure if it's going to fit), shipping time and the time to replace the parts vs replace the whole item. Mine is 1-1/4 and I bought the one with fittings ($450, tax + shipping) which I don't need fittings. DIY is always cheaper than hiring a plumber to replace it.
There is a step I've seen in other repair videos that you omitted - putting silicon plumber's grease on the new rubber parts. I'm going to replace mine next week. Luckily for me it's the less expensive 3/4 XL70.
This was an excellent explanation and very helpful to me. THANK YOU!!!
Well this video is now 7 years old, in rebuilt pressure regulator age I am guessing you have replaced it or had to rebuild again. I bought one of those gauges with a red secondhand, red hand on 110 in the morning and pressure was 70 to 80. I called the city, two guys came out,checked the pressure,80 lbs. I was think the city had a pressure regulator in my meter box. The guys told me the water pressure coming out of the plant was 56 lbs. and the city has no pressure regulators anywhere. So now I am looking at buying a regulator. By the way nice presentation.
Good video,hopefully you used petroleum jelly on the bottom and the top where the parts screw together in case you ever need to disassemble the parts again.I feel your pain,I recently ordered a repair kit for my PRV and it cost me $63.00 plus $12.00 for flat rate shipping and I'm still waiting because the plumbing supplier that I ordered from has no idea when the repair kit will be sent to them for them to then ship the repair kit to me.Thanks again for the video,God bless you and yours.
In terms of less than ten bucks, that's only if you leave out the cost of your time and labor, including research and driving places to buy tools. I can get a brand new Watts PRV for around $100 more or less, so the time it would take to repair a very old one + the cost of the repair kit vs. simply replacing it ends up pointing to replacement.
Whew, repair kit prices have gone up quite a bit (about $120), and I can't tell what model I have either. I think I might have to go with this kludge on our house too, we hit 170psi last night, not sure how much more our pipes can take!
What a great explanation. Bravo Thank you
You are welcome!
I’m stuck not on removing the nut and diaphragm, but instead unthreading the stem assembly as a whole. I have a good hold on that 35mm nut you referred to, but can’t loosen it and have gummed up the screw slot a bit. Any tips?
That was thermal expansion happening. When you open a faucet it releases the extra pressure in the pipes - Notice the needle dropped to 60. The regulator was fine. The reason the needle went up is because the prv creates a Closed Water system & that's why you NEED the expansion tank.
Kudos on your "Kluge"... yes I'm that old also... I know that it must have taken you a fair amount of time to prepare your photos and diagrams so, thank you.
Randy O. Thanks for the comment. Yes, many of our posts take considerable time to produce but it does keep us engaged with the software and eclectic subjects of interest. We'll have some more up shortly on subjects unrelated to this one. How we make Crunchy Cream Tuna on Biscuits and some 1943 video of My Grandfather's Gravely Walk-behind Tractor are in the works now. Both are Eclectic and Tangible. Look for them "at a theater or drive-in near you soon"...and if that phrase sounds familiar...you actually may be nearly as old as the guy typing it.
You have convinced me to buy a new one😂
This is an awesome DIY, thank you. In my case I developed a leak on the filter plug, do not know how that happened, but the pressure certainly ate away on the brass plug and finally developed a needle hole leak and eventually got bigger. Now is that piece available as a single purchase, you would say yes, but I will find out soon. Thanksagain.
Was it? :)
Wow i can't believe these are serviceable lol. You might have luck going to a local "plumbing repair" store for the washers for what it's worth :)
Very informative, very helpful. Thank you.
Great video! What if your pressure regulator doesn’t seem to be regulating the pressure? I have a loosen the bolt out but it continues to be too high of a pressure at about 85 psi. Does that mean the spring is just old or could the diaphragm be broken or something?
It's definitely "something." Here's my SWAG as to what that may be. Either the rubber O rings are no longer sealing properly thus allowing "street pressure" of 80 psi to constantly leak thru -OR- the O ring bearing shaft that moves to counter street pressure is frozen in an open position. Unlikely to be a leaking diaphragm if there's no water coming from the bell housing. Either scenario would require repair/replacement of the regulator. We recently posted a update to this video showing how we replaced this "repaired" unit with a new one. It's fast and easy, but very expensive if it's the same size as this one.
I had a water leak coming from the ceiling and onto a smoke detector. The guy came and after 647 bucks I got two tee unions changed. I am seeing (my wife noticed this before this leak happened) that the water pressure is higher than normal. So now I know after watching your video that I need to measure the pressure with a gauge and then check the regulator. The house is only 3 years old so it might only need to be adjusted (the regulator)
The black rock stuff is called magnetite. It is also known as black rust. The only difference between black and red rust is whether or not there is the presence of oxygen.
Thank you for convincing me to pay the plumber $300.
We did finally replace it after 10 years. Depends on the size of the regulator and your local labor charges as to how much a replacement actually costs. Here's our replacement vid th-cam.com/video/GRpvqcRfjTM/w-d-xo.html
thank you for your extensive discussion. extremely helpful.
Ian Fenty
Thanks for the word fix. Looks like I was a klutz about spelling kluge. It would have been a better vid if I'd photo'd the parts when disassembled but I was focused on getting it reassembled asap. Didn't think my wife would appreciate going down to the beach for a salt water bath if I didn't get it all put back together quickly.
I found pressure reducers on Alibaba for around $15 (fifteen ) and it includes a pressure gauge. (ten years ago) They are also easier to fix. Two "O"rings and a rubber washer. It also includes an allen wrench to adjust the pressure. I found the adjustment rather tricky. It needs to be done very little at a time. and re-adjusted after the washer has been worn in.
PS: what you buy at HD comes from China anyway.. 3/4" pressure reducer+ $100.-
You may also have noticed that the pressure relieve valve at the water heater failed, as they always do. Another POS from Watts.
About ten years ago I devised a pro-active fail save pressure reducer for about thirty dollar and it provides total peace of mind. I will search if anyone else has done a video on it. If not, I might publish my contraptions. (I designed two different ones)
Probably better to buy a new unit for this application, unless you need to do soldering to replace it and don't have the tools/skill. In my situation, I have a 1/2 " low-pressure regulator for my hot water heating system. A standard pressure reducing regulator is indeed quite cheap, about the same price as a rebuild kit. However, the LP (low pressure) version, which is exactly the same, except with a Teflon diaphragm protector, and an extra spring, costs 3-5 times as much, if you can find one. The rebuild kits are the same. You may have to buy the Teflon protector separately. In the 1/2 " version, the nut is 25 mm (1" will work). The LP version works 10-35 psi. Paid USD 44.97 on eBay for a rebuild kit. P.S. I have an old house and there is no pressure regulator. I think someone removed it at some point. My household pressure is around 120 psi. Can't imagine what it would be like at 55-60 psi.
very well done. Is it a rube goldberg No. NIce fix.
Great descriptive video! TY Wish i saw this video before wasting alot of money on a plumber who replaced my high quality Watts with a cheap plastic bell china knock off. Next time ill fix it my self
Wow what an amazing explanation!
This might be an excellent how-to video, but I come to be informed, not entertained. I couldn't get to the nuggets soon enough.
There is nothing “illegal” about having your water heater installed by an unlicensed plumber, and it is very easy for any buyer’s home inspector to see whether it’s been done correctly.
Thank you. Great video. I need to check and repair mine. I like the sound effects.
I have the same quandary, where my tag says 1-1/4", but the dimensions do not match that. Specifically, the "bell housing" is ~3-15/16", which is closer to the 4-1/16" of the 1-1/2" valve (according to Watts spec sheet) than the 3-5/8", but not exactly. Did you measure the ID, OD, and thickness of the Disc? O-ring?
The tag on the unit (1 1/4) is the number to use for either replacing the entire (expensive) unit or the repair kit (also expensive). There is only one repair kit for the (LeadFree) LF25AUB-Z3-S (Solder) - DU (Double Union). It's easy to get completely confused relative to the external sizes and connection types (male/female/solder/threaded) if replacing the unit, but the kit for all is Order Code 0864944 Repair Kit Number 1 1/4 LF25AUB-RK. Here's a retail site I've used when I can't find stuff locally. (www.supplyhouse.com/Watts-0864944-1-1-4-25AUB-RK-Repair-Kit). It may be the one you've referenced because the kit is $101.98. You'll notice the "Manual" gives no dimensions for the rubber parts. If you're just trying to make your own rubber replacements; I didn't measure the rubber sprinkler parts...just kept removing material with a razor to make the big disc fit and then looked thru my junk drawer to find an O ring of suitable size and thickness.
@@otd80 Thanks. BTW, I took off the cover for the screen, and mine did have a seal. Not a gasket, but what seems to be a narrow o-ring (maybe 1mm) recessed in a groove in the cover, barely protruding from flush. I lubed it up on the protruding surface, and it sealed back just fine.
what do you recommend for calcium deposit removal?
my pressure regulating valve drips from the adjustment screw lock nut area and sometimes it stops dripping any idea ?
Same
screen strainer very common the upper nut you dont take off unless the seat is damaged
Hah... my house also "aged"... I myself have installed the water pressure regulator in 2006 when the water heater was leaking too much. Last week I had a plumber come over to check a leak in the inlet and he let some dirty come inside the pipe and that messed up the regulator. The water pressure is great now (approx 80 psi ) but I'd rather have it around 65-70 psi max. I have fumbled with trying to adjust but it's very erratic... a maintenance is in order now.
You did a great write up on repairing the dang thing. I'm gonna check mine to see if I can redo your steps.Thanks.
new rubber ring ( the small one)The rubber may be a low quality and will last a shorter time. That kind of thing has been my experience on other things. Nice project with a hint of what can easily occur. I can never explain to the wife the stuff that happens with all the trips to town back and forth. This is why you may see lots of stuff in my garage cause you really never know when you save something that will come in handy saving the trip to town or savins in money. many times its just easier to pay for it out of pocket . These projects accumulate in the psyche to the point of breaking.
Awesome thank you for sharing gotta do this asap.
Thanks you just saved me from crawling under the house
It is my expansion tank
This is a very nice video. Thank You.
Thank you for your video.. Question: If the city pressure measured at the meter is 50 psi can I still increase the pressure by adjusting the PRM? Say to 60 psi?
+Carlos Lopez Sorry Carlos, the regulator can only reduce high pressure to a lower pressure. The only way to increase your house pressure is to install a pump and that would only work if the city supply capacity is large enough coming to your house. It's a pretty simple equation. Low pressure with large volume + pump = high pressure with smaller volume.
Thank you, I was thinking that was the case. I appreciate your expertise.
easier to just replace ..most homes are 1/2 or 3/4 ones... when you get in the commercial sizes then it makes sense to rebuild.
Good stuff. The rubber seals they make nowadays are worthless .they can't hold up to the chlorine and the chloramines..in today's water supplies.
wiche washer is 1"25 or 1"05 and the thickness of that rubber washer ? Home Depot haw some for ex Paulin 3/8 Rubber Washer 7/8Od 1/16Thk
what is the approximate expected lifespan of these? thanks!
I have no idea what the manufacturers warrantees are but I can say that in our development it appears that around the 12 to 15 year mark the internal rubber parts start failing. This (in addition to crappy copper piping used in many of the tracts in our very large development) has no doubt contributed to the many instances of re-piping and epoxy sealing needed to fix leaks from poorly regulated pressure. Perhaps the water quality also has an effect because I've noticed that replacement toilet valves enjoy brisk sales at the local hardware store. I've replaced the flap-doodles in every toilet in the house at least once over this time frame.
@@otd80 thanks!
I have my valve set for 70 ps. When I turn on water, I have great pressure but then over 5 minutes the pressure drops to 20 ps. ( I have no leaks)
Could a bad PRV cause this?
New hot water heater was installed a few months back.
My GUESS is you have a flow restriction before the regulator. Imagine the pipe going into the regulator is the size of a soda straw. If no water is being used in your house the straw's very restricted GPM would still allow the regulator (and house pipes) to gradually build up toward the street pressure and then operate to hold the house at 70psi. When you turn on a tap, the existing pipe pressure (and perhaps any expansion devices) would provide an initial flow that diminishes down to what ever amount can then be provided by the soda straw's small volume per minute. Old galvanized pipe was notorious for this kind of thing...or...a valve is not fully open in the feed from the street. (Did the plumber installing the new heater turn ALL the supply valves on after install?)...or...the water meter at the street is failing. I'm not a plumber (don't even play one on TV) but I'm older than dirt and have worked in many equally generic houses with this kind of problem so, that's my best SWAG.
@@otd80 Thank you so much for the response!
Thanks for posting this video! I loved it! I am however extremely worried about your hot water heater blowing up again if that PRV goes in say 6 months to a year. I think you did a great job making those rubber rings, but did you notice what they're made out of? If you ordered that kit from Watts your rings would be made out of EPDM cured rubber which can withstand the affects of chlorine over time. I know you don't want another explosion so you should put in the higher quality rings and save yourself future suffering.
EPDM- Ethylene Propylene Diene Monamer
Peroxide curing these polymers gives a higher crosslink density compared with their amorphous counterpart. With peroxide cures, the diene (or third monomer) functions as a coagent, which provides resistance to unwanted tackiness, creep, or flow during end use. Very useful in a High Chlorine environment, but not useful for most oils, gasoline, kerosene, or other hydrocarbons.
PointSourceMedia Thanks for the tech info about the rubber. I don't know what the sprinkler anti-siphon rings I used are made of but they too are exposed to the same chlorinated water we're drinking so I hope the'll hold up as well. Next time I'm at the store I'll check the kit I bought and see if they list the rubber type. I'll certainly keep an eye on the PSI and probably break down and get the repair kit...if I can ever figure out which one to order. It's an easy fix with the correct parts. Just a point of clarification, the tank never blew up, it just developed a corrosion leak after 15 years. Even if my possible non-EPDM rings prematurely fail, the street pressure is generally around 115 and the tank valve operates around 150, so other than stressing the pipes once again I don't expect it to launch from its pedestal...I hope.
I'm a water operator and to repair/rebuild several PRVs annually. It doesn't matter what series PRV you have as long as you know your model and size of PRV, the rebuild kit is the same. Watts (size) LF25AUB-xxxxx all have the same internal parts, though some kits might include plastic, stainless, or brass versions of the same replaceable parts.
Somebody asked about the o rings on Amazon. Watts replied "O-Ring is Uniform dash #123. Dimensions are 1 3/8 inch OD x 1 3/16 inch ID x 3/32 inch thick. Material is EPDM. All I could find that size was Nitrile Rubber or 123 Buna-N. This is the O-Ring that forms a seal at the 3/4 inch threaded brass union.
You nailed it.
This is a hack, a "kludge" is a different beast.
if the rubber diaphragm is torn and water is dripping into the bell housing like mine is will the water pressure still be getting regulated properly to the house ?
+Matowix Hard to say but my guess on both questions is ... yes the big diaphragm has a leak and it's probably a small one that closes when it moves a little and it may still be regulating adequately ... but even if it is, it's unlikely to do so for much longer. You should get it fixed before the diaphragm tears completely. It's also likely that if the rubber of this part is so old that it's leaking, the other seals are also worn and corroded. Time to fix or replace.
+Matowix The only way to know what is going on with the pressure is to go to a local plumbing supply and get the parts to make a screw-on pressure gauge - the gauge itself, a fitting to screw on to an *outside water faucet* and a bushing to join them + pipe dope or white Teflon tape (yellow Teflon tape is for gas connections). Depending on the local water pressure, you gauge should read a minimum of 100 psi, or go for one that reads up to 150psi or 200psi.
Having one is the only way to adjust your pressure, if needed, and it will tell if your regulator is 'bleeding' pressure - limiting water flow at the set point but allowing pressure to build past that point after water flow stops - 2 to 3 minutes.
@@fredenglish3690 thank you for the tip
Any annual maintenance needed for PRV?
None that I know of. I just put a pressure meter on a hose bib every few months to make sure it's still regulating properly.
Awesome video. I wish you were my neighbor :).
Good job.
Oh sorry I thought you said it was a 3/4” prv not a 1 1/4” but it would still be 350 for the whole job
I have some problems with my water pressure I can not use the sink and shower at same time because the pressure will go down immediately is not just my first floor same its with my basement.
I have noticed that I have 3/4 new main line, PRV, check valve and shut off valve are new too but I saw something that I don't understand and it looks weird for me because between my new PRV and 3/4 old pipe galvanized there is small 1/2 inch reducing fitting I do not understand why is there if my water system pipe its 3/4
maybe you may give some advices or someone else can explain me this.
Jorge Montalvo I'm not a plumber, although it may appear I play one on TV. The best I can do is a S.W.A.G to suggest that the real low pressure problem is not just a restriction from the weirdly installed reducer but an overall restriction in the galvanized plumbing of the whole house. Depending on how old it is, and the chemical composition of the water, I've seen rust and corrosion in old galvanized pipe that reduces the inside diameter to less than an eight of an inch. I've lived in A LOT of old houses and this was a common issue with old galvanized plumbing. Unfortunately, no cheap easy fix if this is the problem.
+Jorge Montalvo Sounds like the 1/2" reducing fitting is used to join the 3/4" galvanized pipe to a 1/2" PRV outlet. Some joker just used that instead of a 3/4" PRV. Regardless, a 1/2" reducer would not dramatically restrict the water volume with decent pressure behind it. Unless your PRV inlet screen has become severely clogged, Noesslic's explanation make sense, Get the PRV screen checked first!
You are very good! Thank you!
35 MM (1.378") is about 1 3/8".
Thank You
Hey I’m the best in west service plumber up here Vancouver Island and that guy was totally going to rip you off for his prv swap here it’s about a 20 min job at the most an hr so 200 bucks would get ya a new one installed
In the computer world we use the word "kluge" for less than ideal fit and "hack" for a serious problem solving.
Guy you are the best wow
L. Ron Hubbard spelled it "kludge." And I believe it was German.
Rhymes with "spooge".
Wow, $3k for a water heater? I sold water heaters with installations until a couple years ago and it wouldn't have been much more than $1,000 for a 75 gallon with install.