Thanks Dave, i have been looking to buy an A4 B8 2010 - 2011 for a month now, test drove 5 Audi A4 2.0TDI 136bhp, 141bhp and 170bhp , all of them had tempretaure guage going from 75 to under 90oC, some taking 25miles of driving to get close to 90oC. Did not buy any as i thought they had thermostat and temperature sender fault. Now i can buy a car with that extra pice of mind this is normal.
Cheers dave that just put my mind at rest. Was having the thermostat dropping problem or not thanks to you i now know its normal. 2014 audi a4 avant tdi. Took along time to get to 90 then when put heater on it dropped between 50 to 70. Was about to spend a shit load of cash on thermostats etc. Thanks once again on your video at least one person knows their stuff.
Mines just been diagnosed with the "Burst Tea Bag". Needs a flush and new heater matrix. You mentioned the symptom as being a cold heater. Apparently the first symptom is the cooling system vents being different temperatures on each side of the car. This is what my car was doing prior to the heat stopping altogether. It was around 8 to10 degrees different.
On my old Toyota Corolla diesel in the winter I just blocked 2/3 of the radiator with a piece of thin plywood. It never had a problem and warmed up nice and fast. Having some of automatic system to do this would be more fuel efficient than a 1kW electric heater. Anyway, thanks Dave. If I ever buy an Audi Tdi I'll know what to look for.
Good video dave , I had a customer complaining of no heat in the cab , they had purchased the car in the summer , there was no silica bag in the expansion bottle so I told them it must of split in the past and had been removed , but obviously it had a blocked the heater matrix , but it's a very complex cooling system as you say , thanks for sharing your knowledge Rob mobileman
Yes Robert. the matrix's can block anyways, the mk4 and mk5 golfs were prone to it and they had no silica bag. The coolant only really ever gets changed if you pull the water pump on a timing belt job in reality
I’d been aware of the burst T-bag issue and your previous video gave me inspiration Dave. Ever since you made me think about it a bit harder, during timing belt and water pump changes, I’ve been removing the T-bags while the system was drained down anyway and rightly or wrongly, I’ve been filling them with G12. My logic is, G12 worked fine before the creation of the silica T-bag although I appreciate there are cars with G13 and no T-bag. I’m still deliberating about fitting non genuine water pumps to these types. So far I’ve been fitting genuine VAG pumps but I’m waiting for this to bite me on the a$$ one day. Quite rightly, there would be a customer expectation that the replacement water pump should last for the service life of the timing belt. Of course, we’re removing faulty pumps during belt jobs so we know that’s not really working out!! Incidentally, the two stuck pumps I’ve found so far during belt jobs have not been accompanied by any customer concerns over overheating 🤷 Decent of you to share all this info Dave. At least if folks are informed they can make their own decisions based on having all the relevant facts. Do you mind me asking if you’re retro fitting non-actuated pumps to these vehicles and if you have a preference for any particular aftermarket brand of pump?
Cheers Russell. ive fitted a couple of Febi non-actuated and one Firstline(seemed ok) again non-actuated. I had one sticking at 50k so dont see the point of refitting the switchable plus the aftermarket non-switchable are a lot cheaper which my punters go for when given the option
@@davesterl I've just replaced my water pump with genuine VAG part no. 04L121011N which is a newer version - unsure if this will wear and stick like the old one?
Dave I noticed it working on a Skoda Octavia 1.6 tdi last week , the temp gauge moving to about 70°c then 50°c , I kept monitoring the temp and it did it again, I was a bit confused but now I know 👍, great information as always much appreciated mate
very valuable information I think and with 2 VW vehicles both 2.0tdi specs I will make the checks for the silica bags and take on board the info on the heating systems and their complexities. Thank you Dave.
Brilliant information Dave. I usually change the coolant bottle. When I order the new bottle two weeks ago for a Skoda it said with Silica. The bottle it's self was a smokey colour not the usual white, and when you look inside the silica seems to be sealed away. After a few phone calls it seems this new bottle was brought out in Jan 2020,and seems to be a mod.
Just an update Dave. My A4 Allroad TDI (2012) uses G12 so fine. The Polo (2015) however uses G13. Importantly it doesn't say 'Mit Silikat' on the coolant expansion bottle but did have the silica bag. Now safely out, so thanks again for the top-tip.
I've had my polo gti 6c for 7 years now, I did thermo housing myself year n half ago , and switched to g12 evo, vw dealerships don't offer g13 anymore,,, I removed silica bag,, just noticed this is 3years ago😅
Hello from Sweden! I just changed my expansion bottle which had mit silikat on it , fitted a new one without silikat and filled the new bottle with fresh g13 coolant. Will change the cambelt and waterpump in 25000 km so the system will have a fresh coolant then . Thanks for advice Dave!
I switched to a non switchable water pump and noticed no differences in heating characteristics. Only reason being it was a cheaper option during changing my timing belt.
Very informative Dave. I'm checking my A4 Allroad and Polo TDI first thing. You wouldn't mind so much if they designed the silica bag that was located in partitioned part of the expansion tank with aluminium mesh as a security back up, but honestly that thing looks like a Tetley tea-bag in a mug of builders tea!
Excellent video, I’m having issues with my heating currently where it’s intermittent at best. Sometimes I’ll have luke warm heating and sometimes it’ll die altogether and blow cold regardless of temp setting. My expansion tank says it had the bag of silicate however I’ve checked and there was no evidence of it being there so previous owner may have removed it. No idea why the heating has suddenly decided to mess about. Any ideas anyone? I’ve changed water pump and timing belt…
I've had the same issue with my A3. You will need to change the heater matrix, which sits behind your dashboard. I've had it changed today and it fixed the problem.
Hi Dave, I have a query please which is driving us insane! 🤯 so exact same car, only overheats and spews out coolant at motorway speed. Is okay locally for the most part. Thermostat, heater matrix, thermostat sensor, water pump, All been changed! No gunk in the oil, engine sounds fine. No smoke from exhaust. Just Perplexed as to what it is. Has been manually flushed and coolant added several times. Pressure tested, no leaks identified. Just spews out the coolant tank when it gets too hot 😑 any advice greatly appreciated pls 🙏
PTC heater element (positive temperature coefficient) as it gets hot the resistance goes up in effect turning it off. No eed for ant external electrical control other than on/off IIRC
Hi Dave , thanks for the informative video . I took my silicate bag out but decided to keep the g13 in the cooling system instead of you changing to g12 . All I do is to keep it up to strength is to change it every year with fresh g13. Everything today is over engineered and it’s a complete nightmare to us mechanics. You say the both g12 and g13 are mix able I did not know that .
Great video Dave , just sent this video to 2 of my mates that drive audis , and as always going away with a bit of knowledge I didn’t have half an hour ago 👍
Interesting...Wouldn’t the low (ish) ECT result in higher fuel consumption (wider injectors PW’s). Perhaps this is not as much of an issue on diesels. Makes you wonder though ???
Ian , they've messed about with these cooling systems so much they end up with the owners seeing all these strange occurrances which Audi have to say are all ok. Some say sand picked up by the castings perforate the silica bag which turns the coolant into gel. Yeah, the contradiction is they switch the main engine pump off to get it up to temp quicker, but the engine can't sustain it at lower ambient temps!!! Thanks for asking, end of rant - yeah bound to use more fuel but only cools at lower engine speeds so hopefully nobody notices
Another excellent video Dave. Extremely informative as I didn't know half that info. I know some Peugeot 308s use the electric heater in the diesels but didn't know Audi were using them too.
Glad I saw this, my 2007 1.9 tdi 105 says g12, issue I'm having is it doesn't properly get to temp and stay there also seems to lack power in 3rd gear. Seems strange as the engine runs smooth no knocks or noises at all, could you offer any advice as to what it is? Bugging me as its a nice car runs well apart from this 1 issue
Really informative. I've a tdi 2014 engine. Silica bag intact. First symptoms was no heat in the cabin and then some funny noise from behind the dash. Car had been motorway driven for an hour. Then went for another hour drive parked up for the day. Came back 6 hours later... Low coolant warning.... Only had water with me in the middle of nowhere so topped up with 500ml. Level was fine on two hour journey home. Temp set at 90 no bother. But still no cabin heat. What's your thoughts of you have time to answer. Thank you 😊
i also get the funny noise behind the dash. Sometimes its sound like liquid circulating, other times it sounds like an angry plastic creeking as if something is struggling to move but its stuck.
A lot of useful information here.talking about the cooling and heating system my 2.0 trip blows hot air when it wants and it also dumps the coolant out the expansion tank through the cap now and again.any ideas what that could be?
Ok thanks for getting back to me .I’ve not long just replaced the cap but to be honest it doesn’t feel very tight and a good seal when I screw it closed.I will get a new expansion tank and a new cap?
@@davesterl I will let you know how I get on.this isn’t the first time this has happened.seams to happen when the fan’s are constantly running.I’ve topped up the coolant this morning with the engine stone cold and I will see what happens on the drive home.
Nice explanation, I only became aware of this bad a couple of weeks ago when I got in a golf with poor interior heating . Is there any flush method you can recommend to get this stuff out of the cooling system , I don't fancy changing the heater matrix if possible
Hi Dave, hope you can assist. i have a 2013 Audi A5 2.0 petrol which always overheats after a few kilometers. I tried to change the waterpump and thermostat but it didn't help. There are no pipes leaking, the fault detector /scanner can't detect where the fault is. I'm stuck withno answers. What could be possibly wrong?
Fantastic information again bud👍What was the symptoms for changing the heater got the exact same model coming in next week with at best a luke warm heater.
We just purchased an 2015 audi a3. Within 2 weeks, we've had to fill coolant twice. The silicone bag is still in there. How can this situation be fixed?
What about the tempreture gauge sitting at 70-80 when the outside tempreture is above 5 degrees ..e.g. 15-30 degrees in the summer and driving 100s of miles and sits at 70 ..barely manages to hit 80-85 when in long period of stop start traffic ?
@@davesterl is that normal ? For it to constantly run at those low temperature . Is it a possible thermostat problem.? As the advice was not to worry when outside tempreture is 5 degrees or lower but have this problem even in summer....stop/ start doesn't work either
I own a 2012 Audi Q3 TSFI. I'm getting no heat all. I can hear something happening behind the dash but no air hot or cold is coming out of the vents. Do you have any idea what the problem / solution might be?
You guys do indeed Cuba!!! My pal John(from Belfast) lives in NC did a vid on his TFSI and i shouted out to him to remove the silica bag as he had the wee badge on the bottle.
Hi mate , I drive the exact same car 2.0 tdi Audi A3 2014 and have just had the problem of my coolant tank being empty after starting the car this morning , I topped it up with water to see if it leaks again today ( so far nothing yet ) but when I put the heating in to check if it was working it’s only working on the passenger side and Luke warm on the drivers side, I haven’t had the system pressure tested yet as everywhere seems to be fully booked until next month but I have been told it could be the heater matrix needing replaced? Is that a big job as I have been quoted around £350 just to strip the dash to get to it then I have to pay for parts and labour 🙈, the silica bay was removed when I had the car serviced just after I bought it about 2 & 1/2 years ago , I’ve just find it very strange for the coolant to empty like that if there’s no visible leak. Do you know if that would be the cause before I commit to having this done specially if it can just reoccur , thanks
@@andrewl7869 yes the silica bag had split and the entire engine was compromised , I had the system blew out and flushed out 3 times but kept getting big chunks of silica from her , I was told I would need to replace the heater matrix , all hoses & pipes , radiator and head gasket that would cost around 4 grand so I just scrapped it , if you catch it on time you can replace the heater matrix and it can fix this issue but mine was too far gone to save unfortunately, I hope you can get your sorted mate 😊
Hi how do you bleed these drained my coolant and swapped out the heater matrix due to a blockage now i can hear gurgling noise in the dash guessing its an air lock
Why not fit a 2 bar electric fire in the dash Dave 😂😂, design gone loopy fire hazards of the future , no hope for the new guys joining our job nowadays, great info there Dave , not many will know about this , Top man for sharing it 😂😂💪💪🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
@@davesterl had another crazy car last week , 2013 fiesta petrol engine, came in no heater blower , no heated rear screen , customer arrived with it , I noticed when she parked it up no outer brake lights , I put a new bulb in the offside , she was in the car , started it up checked new bulb for illumination, worked ok , same to passenger side, again she started it up after new bulb fitted and guess what works now , heater blower and heated rear screen , crazy canbus ?
i’m noob i plan to change the coolant tank with no silicat , can i just top up or fill up with the G12evo since my car have G13 now??? much appreciated thank you 🙏
Hi, can you tell me how much cooling fluid comes out of the hose into the header tank when the rpm is raised as on mine it is a steady slow flow at idle but it stops when I increase the rpm also it is overheating at over 50 mph, I have just replaced the pump and belt ( just because it was 6 years old, there was no issues) so I was wondering if I could have installed a faulty new pump. Thanks Steve.
What if my coolant temp on my audi fluctuates but not between 50 and 90, but between 90 and 110? This doesnt happen on my dads audi at all and he has a tdi too?
Hi I have a audi a5 b9 40 tdi and have an issue with the temperature gauge on the dash. The car takes in my opinion bit longer than normal to reach to 90degrees. When it does, and the heaters are turned on, it blows out hot air but the temperature gauge will start to reduce block by block until it gets back to 50degrees. The temperature of the heat from the heaters is exactly the same and doesnt change Any ideas if this is a symptom of a failed thermostat or if the coolant temperature sensor needs replacing?
I need you expertise mate. A4 CJCB 2014 FL. Cannot get above 70c with the heaters on. Replaced the inline stat and block stat with new ones from TPS. Inline opens at 75c and block opens at 87c. Warm air immediately in the cab. Will get to 90 with heaters off, heaters on drops to 70/75c. Any advice mate?
Just doing a 2013 sirocco with g12 on the bottle has something similar inside look like 2 plastic shot gun cases are these the same thing and are they best removed Says nothing about silica on bottle
Son has an a3 2lt s line had one of the excillery pump at the back of the engine ni when he is driving the coolant light comes on when he stops he looks at the coolant bottle shows it’s empty when he opens it the bottle refills itself back to the top. Any ideas. Thanks in advance
Hi dave , I could do with some advice on audi a5 2.0tdi ,2010 the dreaded hunting at idle fault , theyve had new fuel filter and inlet metering valve replaced but still same , car drives fine , just idles rough , I checked out the drv valve back of fuel rail and decided it wasnt t holding pressure , data was very erratic , so I replaced the valve reset both valves through vag.com , it idles great now but soon as you drive it it goes in to limp mode and fault code p0087 low fuel pressure , strange how it drove fine before just idle issues.. now it's the opposite idles great but no power any ideas ? Thanks rob
Hi Dave, I have an Audi A3 2016, TDI 2.0 the temperature gauge in the car, takes about 1-3kms of driving to go from 0-90 Degrees and it will go up slowly. The outside temperature is 23 plus degrees. What do you suggest I look at? Is this normal?
VW covering their arse there for a fault they don't understand. I have two virtually identical 2014 Mk7 Golf GTDs. One reaches 90C easily, the other barely makes it above 50C. Same weather conditions, same driving conditions. I have noticed by logging with VCDS that the temperature on both reaches 57C quickly - probably within 5 minutes or starting to drive but then 'something' happens on both. The temperature drops. On the one that warms up properly it drops a few degrees for a minute or so then continues climbung to 90C but on the one that never warms up it drops back below 50C, sometimes down to 40C and never really gets above 50C after that. At the same time that the temp starts dropping, I see 'Heater support pump 1 bank 1 primary circuit: activation' go from 5% to 95%. I guess this is the main coolant pump activation? Would make sense to me that activation of the main coolant pump would cause overcooling if the thermostat is stuck open. I'll be taking mine apart in the next day or so and will post the results here.
@@Rasle500 Yes, it was the main thermostat towards the air intake end of the cylinder head. Not too bad of a job, easier than on a Mk6 TDI anyway! Buy a genuine one, or one made by Meyle - they are the OEM manufacturers.
Thanks for the information, I have done a timing belt and pump on one of these engine I was told it had to be vacuum bleed. I have not done that not had any issues in 800miles, could you clear this up on if it needs it
Wanted to see if anyone can help. I’ve got a full service for my car and a coolant change. Since I had the coolant change my heaters are not working properly. I have dual climate control the passenger side is giving out hot air however the driver-side is giving lukewarm air. Both temperatures are set on high. Any ideas anyone?
Ive just had the same problem with my 2017 A3 2.0 tdi . Needed cam belt at 60k , so had new water pump. I month later - blocked matrix . My thoughts are either some sludge that gets stirred up when the coolant’s changed and blocks the heated matrix, Or , its possible that if you didn’t use the G13 coolant , the magnesium alloy heater matrix may have corroded. Theres lots of ersatz ;gXX coolants out there , not all are as good as the factory fitted type & not all have same protection against corrosion. The silicates in the G13 prevent corrosion in the high precision cooling components , some are magnesium alloy and corrode with deionised water & G12+ / ++ If. The 2 types of coolant mix , a gungy pink sludge seems to appear .
@@tonyperkins9549 thanks for your response. Was one side giving hot air and the other side giving cool/Luke warm ? If it is the heater matrix that gets blocked then why does the passenger side still work fine? Would it not all stop working? Also I have had a check what coolant I used and it is G12+ (this was given to me by the shop) 🤦🏼♂️ I took it back to the garage and he’s adamant there’s nothing to do with the coolant change and has told me it is ‘Blend Door Actuator’ however I don’t know as my heater stopped working when I did the coolant change. Not sure what to do :(
Hello i have a Audi A6 c6 2011 2.0tdi i have an issue whit the temperature gauge. I have changed the timing belt waterpump cirkulationpump thermostat. The car reaches 90 but when i stand still and put full heat in the car the temperatur gauge drops can someone help???
@@davesterl i checked it but Audi dealer here in sweden Said that my car doesnt have another thermostat then the large one i have changed. I really dont know what to to anymore
Acording to Audi the bag is there for when you add only water to keep the silica levels up. I fully agree with Dave remove the bag . EA288 engine th-cam.com/video/1wauedXMKbc/w-d-xo.html Audi training video
Another environmental cheat by VW group eh Dave , if they know they burst , they should recall them and do flushing for free , did an Audi A4 saloon on Friday ,rear spring , what a job , rusted seized bolts, stuck in bushes ended up lowering the subframe to get out the broken spring and fitting compressed new one , at least it passed mot💪, great video as usual Dave , take care
Dont buy vw audi cars they use to be bullet proof now they have all sorts of problems. My problem is I drive vw golf I'm thinking of getting rid of it after watching this video and maybe buy fiat punto.
That letter is rubbish. The coolant temperature should not fluctate if coolant system is working correctly. I actually have similar problem with engine under heating and even changing the in hose thermostat didnt help to solve the problem. Even audi dealership and german technicians dont know how to fix my car lol
@@davesterl issued by the manufacturer to cover themself. Unfortunately we dont have the lemon laws like the US. I have a diesel that have consumption like petrol car because the engine cant reach optimal temperature. Mine was staying at audi for more than a month and they were saying that is normal. My question was why the first 5 years car was working fine and then suddenly started underheating. Everything was changed or tested with a donor part and nothing solved the problem. If is normal it will do it straight out of the factory, not 5 years later. My only theory is that the firmware upgrade for the AC control unit is messed up and is not regulating the coolant flow properly when heating is on. They made upgrade in august 2016, ive noticed the issue september/october. Still not fixed 5 years later.
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I service lots of VAG vehicles, but I didn’t know half of that. This is an excellent video. Thank you 🙏
you are very welcome
After I changed the thermostat myself on my A3 1.6 TDI and it didn't help, I came across your video. THANK YOU, you have given me peace of mind.
Did this work
@@hpls8160 No, changing the thermostat didn't help. In fact, it looks like it got a little worse.
What was the issue if it wasn't the TS thanks
Thanks Dave, i have been looking to buy an A4 B8 2010 - 2011 for a month now, test drove 5 Audi A4 2.0TDI 136bhp, 141bhp and 170bhp , all of them had tempretaure guage going from 75 to under 90oC, some taking 25miles of driving to get close to 90oC. Did not buy any as i thought they had thermostat and temperature sender fault. Now i can buy a car with that extra pice of mind this is normal.
My God man is there no end to your talent 👍👍👍
Powerful message and very insightful content. Thank you for sharing your thoughts and experience.
Cheers dave that just put my mind at rest. Was having the thermostat dropping problem or not thanks to you i now know its normal. 2014 audi a4 avant tdi. Took along time to get to 90 then when put heater on it dropped between 50 to 70. Was about to spend a shit load of cash on thermostats etc. Thanks once again on your video at least one person knows their stuff.
Mines just been diagnosed with the "Burst Tea Bag". Needs a flush and new heater matrix.
You mentioned the symptom as being a cold heater.
Apparently the first symptom is the cooling system vents being different temperatures on each side of the car.
This is what my car was doing prior to the heat stopping altogether.
It was around 8 to10 degrees different.
Did this fix the issue of cold
Heating?
@@nickbathie99 Yes... It's working now.
On my old Toyota Corolla diesel in the winter I just blocked 2/3 of the radiator with a piece of thin plywood. It never had a problem and warmed up nice and fast. Having some of automatic system to do this would be more fuel efficient than a 1kW electric heater.
Anyway, thanks Dave. If I ever buy an Audi Tdi I'll know what to look for.
Good video dave , I had a customer complaining of no heat in the cab , they had purchased the car in the summer , there was no silica bag in the expansion bottle so I told them it must of split in the past and had been removed , but obviously it had a blocked the heater matrix , but it's a very complex cooling system as you say , thanks for sharing your knowledge
Rob mobileman
Yes Robert. the matrix's can block anyways, the mk4 and mk5 golfs were prone to it and they had no silica bag. The coolant only really ever gets changed if you pull the water pump on a timing belt job in reality
I’d been aware of the burst T-bag issue and your previous video gave me inspiration Dave. Ever since you made me think about it a bit harder, during timing belt and water pump changes, I’ve been removing the T-bags while the system was drained down anyway and rightly or wrongly, I’ve been filling them with G12. My logic is, G12 worked fine before the creation of the silica T-bag although I appreciate there are cars with G13 and no T-bag. I’m still deliberating about fitting non genuine water pumps to these types. So far I’ve been fitting genuine VAG pumps but I’m waiting for this to bite me on the a$$ one day. Quite rightly, there would be a customer expectation that the replacement water pump should last for the service life of the timing belt. Of course, we’re removing faulty pumps during belt jobs so we know that’s not really working out!! Incidentally, the two stuck pumps I’ve found so far during belt jobs have not been accompanied by any customer concerns over overheating 🤷 Decent of you to share all this info Dave. At least if folks are informed they can make their own decisions based on having all the relevant facts. Do you mind me asking if you’re retro fitting non-actuated pumps to these vehicles and if you have a preference for any particular aftermarket brand of pump?
Cheers Russell. ive fitted a couple of Febi non-actuated and one Firstline(seemed ok) again non-actuated. I had one sticking at 50k so dont see the point of refitting the switchable plus the aftermarket non-switchable are a lot cheaper which my punters go for when given the option
@@davesterl I've just replaced my water pump with genuine VAG part no. 04L121011N which is a newer version - unsure if this will wear and stick like the old one?
Dave I noticed it working on a Skoda Octavia 1.6 tdi last week , the temp gauge moving to about 70°c then 50°c , I kept monitoring the temp and it did it again, I was a bit confused but now I know 👍, great information as always much appreciated mate
Lots of useful information here Dave, thanks for sharing this 👍
no worries, cheers matt
very valuable information I think and with 2 VW vehicles both 2.0tdi specs I will make the checks for the silica bags and take on board the info on the heating systems and their complexities. Thank you Dave.
Brilliant information Dave. I usually change the coolant bottle. When I order the new bottle two weeks ago for a Skoda it said with Silica. The bottle it's self was a smokey colour not the usual white, and when you look inside the silica seems to be sealed away. After a few phone calls it seems this new bottle was brought out in Jan 2020,and seems to be a mod.
oh, interesting thanks for that
@@davesterl I wonder if the temperature guage dropping off gets worse when the modified water pump is put in.
Mine was the same, silica bag behind some more plastic, however mine was manufactured in 2018, the same year as the car (VW Passat)
Just an update Dave. My A4 Allroad TDI (2012) uses G12 so fine. The Polo (2015) however uses G13. Importantly it doesn't say 'Mit Silikat' on the coolant expansion bottle but did have the silica bag. Now safely out, so thanks again for the top-tip.
I've had my polo gti 6c for 7 years now, I did thermo housing myself year n half ago , and switched to g12 evo, vw dealerships don't offer g13 anymore,,, I removed silica bag,, just noticed this is 3years ago😅
Hello from Sweden! I just changed my expansion bottle which had mit silikat on it , fitted a new one without silikat and filled the new bottle with fresh g13 coolant. Will change the cambelt and waterpump in 25000 km so the system will have a fresh coolant then . Thanks for advice Dave!
Glad to help my friends in Sweden
I switched to a non switchable water pump and noticed no differences in heating characteristics. Only reason being it was a cheaper option during changing my timing belt.
very informative Dave was taught this from my time in euro car parts.
Very informative Dave. I'm checking my A4 Allroad and Polo TDI first thing. You wouldn't mind so much if they designed the silica bag that was located in partitioned part of the expansion tank with aluminium mesh as a security back up, but honestly that thing looks like a Tetley tea-bag in a mug of builders tea!
Excellent video, I’m having issues with my heating currently where it’s intermittent at best. Sometimes I’ll have luke warm heating and sometimes it’ll die altogether and blow cold regardless of temp setting. My expansion tank says it had the bag of silicate however I’ve checked and there was no evidence of it being there so previous owner may have removed it. No idea why the heating has suddenly decided to mess about. Any ideas anyone? I’ve changed water pump and timing belt…
I've had the same issue with my A3. You will need to change the heater matrix, which sits behind your dashboard. I've had it changed today and it fixed the problem.
Hi Dave, I have a query please which is driving us insane! 🤯 so exact same car, only overheats and spews out coolant at motorway speed. Is okay locally for the most part. Thermostat, heater matrix, thermostat sensor, water pump, All been changed! No gunk in the oil, engine sounds fine. No smoke from exhaust. Just Perplexed as to what it is. Has been manually flushed and coolant added several times. Pressure tested, no leaks identified. Just spews out the coolant tank when it gets too hot 😑 any advice greatly appreciated pls 🙏
PTC heater element (positive temperature coefficient) as it gets hot the resistance goes up in effect turning it off. No eed for ant external electrical control other than on/off IIRC
yep, 2 relays low and high. detailed vid on the PTC heater coming next
Hi Dave , thanks for the informative video . I took my silicate bag out but decided to keep the g13 in the cooling system instead of you changing to g12 . All I do is to keep it up to strength is to change it every year with fresh g13. Everything today is over engineered and it’s a complete nightmare to us mechanics. You say the both g12 and g13 are mix able I did not know that .
A very honest and helpful video dave 👍🏻 👏 👌
Some top information dave. Thanks a lot
I pulled the bag outta my black one the other Dave on your recommendation....great info mate...
Aye mate, kinda inspired this vid
One of my friends had this problem and it cost £900 to get it fixed. Both heater and main radiator had to be replaced.
Great video Dave , just sent this video to 2 of my mates that drive audis , and as always going away with a bit of knowledge I didn’t have half an hour ago 👍
Awesome, thank you!
There was a lot of problems with casting sand left in the engine in the making of them also blocking the heater matrix also
yeah Shaun that's right, some say it's the sand that bursts the bag
Interesting...Wouldn’t the low (ish) ECT result in higher fuel consumption (wider injectors PW’s). Perhaps this is not as much of an issue on diesels. Makes you wonder though ???
Ian , they've messed about with these cooling systems so much they end up with the owners seeing all these strange occurrances which Audi have to say are all ok. Some say sand picked up by the castings perforate the silica bag which turns the coolant into gel. Yeah, the contradiction is they switch the main engine pump off to get it up to temp quicker, but the engine can't sustain it at lower ambient temps!!! Thanks for asking, end of rant - yeah bound to use more fuel but only cools at lower engine speeds so hopefully nobody notices
Thanks Dave I'll be checking my son's polo it's not TDI but I check anyway. Love the channel keep up the good work👍
Frank! Who's Steve? Wrong channel.
@@d.d4184 sorry heads away 🙈😂🤣
@@johnfittis5764 🤣🤣
Another excellent video Dave. Extremely informative as I didn't know half that info. I know some Peugeot 308s use the electric heater in the diesels but didn't know Audi were using them too.
Cool, thanks
Great top drawer info as ever Dave.
Thank you, Gary
Excellent video Dave
Glad I saw this, my 2007 1.9 tdi 105 says g12, issue I'm having is it doesn't properly get to temp and stay there also seems to lack power in 3rd gear. Seems strange as the engine runs smooth no knocks or noises at all, could you offer any advice as to what it is? Bugging me as its a nice car runs well apart from this 1 issue
Really informative.
I've a tdi 2014 engine. Silica bag intact. First symptoms was no heat in the cabin and then some funny noise from behind the dash.
Car had been motorway driven for an hour.
Then went for another hour drive parked up for the day. Came back 6 hours later... Low coolant warning.... Only had water with me in the middle of nowhere so topped up with 500ml.
Level was fine on two hour journey home. Temp set at 90 no bother.
But still no cabin heat.
What's your thoughts of you have time to answer.
Thank you 😊
i also get the funny noise behind the dash. Sometimes its sound like liquid circulating, other times it sounds like an angry plastic creeking as if something is struggling to move but its stuck.
A lot of useful information here.talking about the cooling and heating system my 2.0 trip blows hot air when it wants and it also dumps the coolant out the expansion tank through the cap now and again.any ideas what that could be?
You need a new cap
Ok thanks for getting back to me .I’ve not long just replaced the cap but to be honest it doesn’t feel very tight and a good seal when I screw it closed.I will get a new expansion tank and a new cap?
@@petermcculloch423 do not use non-oe caps
@@davesterl I will let you know how I get on.this isn’t the first time this has happened.seams to happen when the fan’s are constantly running.I’ve topped up the coolant this morning with the engine stone cold and I will see what happens on the drive home.
Nice explanation, I only became aware of this bad a couple of weeks ago when I got in a golf with poor interior heating . Is there any flush method you can recommend to get this stuff out of the cooling system , I don't fancy changing the heater matrix if possible
Not really, its whatever you can rig up
@@davesterl grand so , thanks for the quick response.
great video , will tis be the same on a 2014 TT ?
Good video Dave ..very informative
Hi Dave, hope you can assist. i have a 2013 Audi A5 2.0 petrol which always overheats after a few kilometers. I tried to change the waterpump and thermostat but it didn't help. There are no pipes leaking, the fault detector /scanner can't detect where the fault is. I'm stuck withno answers. What could be possibly wrong?
Fantastic information again bud👍What was the symptoms for changing the heater got the exact same model coming in next week with at best a luke warm heater.
Detailed vid on the PTC Heater coming next
We just purchased an 2015 audi a3. Within 2 weeks, we've had to fill coolant twice. The silicone bag is still in there. How can this situation be fixed?
And people complain about Fiat buy in reality they make the best engines
good video dave
What about the tempreture gauge sitting at 70-80 when the outside tempreture is above 5 degrees ..e.g. 15-30 degrees in the summer and driving 100s of miles and sits at 70 ..barely manages to hit 80-85 when in long period of stop start traffic ?
What about it
@@davesterl is that normal ? For it to constantly run at those low temperature . Is it a possible thermostat problem.? As the advice was not to worry when outside tempreture is 5 degrees or lower but have this problem even in summer....stop/ start doesn't work either
exactly same in my A6 2.0 tdi c7, coolant temp never reached 90, always between 70-80 even when its 20 Celsius outside ...
Appreciate this info thanks a ton
Very informative Dave well worth knowing thank you
Very welcome
How about the petrol 2.0 s3 engines? Do they also have the mechanical water pump in the same location driven by the belt?
Great info Dave. 👍
Are you the great Harry Wilson of Honda fame that owes me a pint?
@@davesterl certainly is, more than happy to buy you a pint, but can't keep up with your drinking 😂
Hope you're keeping well 👍
Very good information, thanks 🙏
You're welcome mate
I own a 2012 Audi Q3 TSFI. I'm getting no heat all. I can hear something happening behind the dash but no air hot or cold is coming out of the vents. Do you have any idea what the problem / solution might be?
Very interesting. I agree, I would rather not have that bag either. I'll have to check to see if we have that here.
Even more interesting, just got to the part of the PTC... i don't work on VW often but this is extremely informative & helpful.
Lol 🥰 "high 5" 🖐🏻
You guys do indeed Cuba!!! My pal John(from Belfast) lives in NC did a vid on his TFSI and i shouted out to him to remove the silica bag as he had the wee badge on the bottle.
for coolant top ups / change after removing bag would you now reccomend G12 evo ?
Hi mate , I drive the exact same car 2.0 tdi Audi A3 2014 and have just had the problem of my coolant tank being empty after starting the car this morning , I topped it up with water to see if it leaks again today ( so far nothing yet ) but when I put the heating in to check if it was working it’s only working on the passenger side and Luke warm on the drivers side, I haven’t had the system pressure tested yet as everywhere seems to be fully booked until next month but I have been told it could be the heater matrix needing replaced? Is that a big job as I have been quoted around £350 just to strip the dash to get to it then I have to pay for parts and labour 🙈, the silica bay was removed when I had the car serviced just after I bought it about 2 & 1/2 years ago , I’ve just find it very strange for the coolant to empty like that if there’s no visible leak. Do you know if that would be the cause before I commit to having this done specially if it can just reoccur , thanks
You’ve just described exactly the same symptoms my car is experiencing. Did you manage to find out what was the issue?
@@andrewl7869 yes the silica bag had split and the entire engine was compromised , I had the system blew out and flushed out 3 times but kept getting big chunks of silica from her , I was told I would need to replace the heater matrix , all hoses & pipes , radiator and head gasket that would cost around 4 grand so I just scrapped it , if you catch it on time you can replace the heater matrix and it can fix this issue but mine was too far gone to save unfortunately, I hope you can get your sorted mate 😊
Hi how do you bleed these drained my coolant and swapped out the heater matrix due to a blockage now i can hear gurgling noise in the dash guessing its an air lock
My car is collant out of reservator why is Water Pump..?
Why not fit a 2 bar electric fire in the dash Dave 😂😂, design gone loopy fire hazards of the future , no hope for the new guys joining our job nowadays, great info there Dave , not many will know about this , Top man for sharing it 😂😂💪💪🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
Wait to you see the next video
@@davesterl had another crazy car last week , 2013 fiesta petrol engine, came in no heater blower , no heated rear screen , customer arrived with it , I noticed when she parked it up no outer brake lights , I put a new bulb in the offside , she was in the car , started it up checked new bulb for illumination, worked ok , same to passenger side, again she started it up after new bulb fitted and guess what works now , heater blower and heated rear screen , crazy canbus ?
i’m noob i plan to change the coolant tank with no silicat , can i just top up or fill up with the G12evo since my car have G13 now???
much appreciated thank you 🙏
Hi, can you tell me how much cooling fluid comes out of the hose into the header tank when the rpm is raised as on mine it is a steady slow flow at idle but it stops when I increase the rpm also it is overheating at over 50 mph, I have just replaced the pump and belt ( just because it was 6 years old, there was no issues) so I was wondering if I could have installed a faulty new pump. Thanks Steve.
What if my coolant temp on my audi fluctuates but not between 50 and 90, but between 90 and 110? This doesnt happen on my dads audi at all and he has a tdi too?
Hi
I have a audi a5 b9 40 tdi and have an issue with the temperature gauge on the dash. The car takes in my opinion bit longer than normal to reach to 90degrees. When it does, and the heaters are turned on, it blows out hot air but the temperature gauge will start to reduce block by block until it gets back to 50degrees. The temperature of the heat from the heaters is exactly the same and doesnt change
Any ideas if this is a symptom of a failed thermostat or if the coolant temperature sensor needs replacing?
I need you expertise mate. A4 CJCB 2014 FL. Cannot get above 70c with the heaters on. Replaced the inline stat and block stat with new ones from TPS. Inline opens at 75c and block opens at 87c. Warm air immediately in the cab. Will get to 90 with heaters off, heaters on drops to 70/75c. Any advice mate?
I should add that the temp today was ambient 11c. Plugged in VCDS when I got home and the coolant was 78c and engine oil 79c.
Cool good info do you think that ea288 engine will be more or less reliable than the older ea189?
no idea
useful info there ,i knew about the water pump as have had it happen ,but didn't know about the silica gel or the electric heater thanks for the video
No problem 👍
Just doing a 2013 sirocco with g12 on the bottle has something similar inside look like 2 plastic shot gun cases are these the same thing and are they best removed
Says nothing about silica on bottle
No idea what they are simon
@@davesterl look like a version of the t bag just rattling around the coolant tank
How do you bleed this coolant system? Does it need bled via VCDS? Or will it bleed on its own?
VCDS will run the electric pumps to purge the system. You can do the same by running the engine, lettingit cool down and topping up.
Should the auxiliary water pump run after engine switch off if so shoud itvdo it every time on 2.0 tdi
Yes
Son has an a3 2lt s line had one of the excillery pump at the back of the engine ni when he is driving the coolant light comes on when he stops he looks at the coolant bottle shows it’s empty when he opens it the bottle refills itself back to the top. Any ideas. Thanks in advance
Do not open when hot
Had the same behaviour on a Skoda Octavia MK3 - The root cause was the Intake manifold intercooler Skoda Part number (04L129766S)
Hi dave , I could do with some advice on audi a5 2.0tdi ,2010 the dreaded hunting at idle fault , theyve had new fuel filter and inlet metering valve replaced but still same , car drives fine , just idles rough , I checked out the drv valve back of fuel rail and decided it wasnt t holding pressure , data was very erratic , so I replaced the valve reset both valves through vag.com , it idles great now but soon as you drive it it goes in to limp mode and fault code p0087 low fuel pressure , strange how it drove fine before just idle issues.. now it's the opposite idles great but no power any ideas ? Thanks rob
Only thing springs to mind is the low pressure side.
Hi Dave,
I have an Audi A3 2016, TDI 2.0 the temperature gauge in the car, takes about 1-3kms of driving to go from 0-90 Degrees and it will go up slowly.
The outside temperature is 23 plus degrees.
What do you suggest I look at? Is this normal?
It goes from 0 to 90 degrees in 1 to 3 kilometres?
VW covering their arse there for a fault they don't understand. I have two virtually identical 2014 Mk7 Golf GTDs. One reaches 90C easily, the other barely makes it above 50C. Same weather conditions, same driving conditions.
I have noticed by logging with VCDS that the temperature on both reaches 57C quickly - probably within 5 minutes or starting to drive but then 'something' happens on both. The temperature drops. On the one that warms up properly it drops a few degrees for a minute or so then continues climbung to 90C but on the one that never warms up it drops back below 50C, sometimes down to 40C and never really gets above 50C after that.
At the same time that the temp starts dropping, I see 'Heater support pump 1 bank 1 primary circuit: activation' go from 5% to 95%. I guess this is the main coolant pump activation? Would make sense to me that activation of the main coolant pump would cause overcooling if the thermostat is stuck open.
I'll be taking mine apart in the next day or so and will post the results here.
Did you find the problem?
@@Rasle500 Yes, it was the main thermostat towards the air intake end of the cylinder head. Not too bad of a job, easier than on a Mk6 TDI anyway! Buy a genuine one, or one made by Meyle - they are the OEM manufacturers.
Hi buddy what does p023a charge air coolant pump circuit open. Cheers and heaters are only blowing cold heat. Coolant pump been changed/electric pump.
electric pump for intercooler
I've changed it. It's still the samev
@@awaishussain4918 you have a circuit code
Thanks for the information, I have done a timing belt and pump on one of these engine I was told it had to be vacuum bleed. I have not done that not had any issues in 800miles, could you clear this up on if it needs it
id say you'll be ok after 800 miles. i rarely do a vacuum bleed
Wanted to see if anyone can help. I’ve got a full service for my car and a coolant change. Since I had the coolant change my heaters are not working properly. I have dual climate control the passenger side is giving out hot air however the driver-side is giving lukewarm air. Both temperatures are set on high. Any ideas anyone?
Ive just had the same problem with my 2017 A3 2.0 tdi . Needed cam belt at 60k , so had new water pump.
I month later - blocked matrix .
My thoughts are either some sludge that gets stirred up when the coolant’s changed and blocks the heated matrix,
Or , its possible that if you didn’t use the G13 coolant , the magnesium alloy heater matrix may have corroded.
Theres lots of ersatz ;gXX coolants out there , not all are as good as the factory fitted type & not all have same protection against corrosion.
The silicates in the G13 prevent corrosion in the high precision cooling components , some are magnesium alloy and corrode with deionised water & G12+ / ++
If. The 2 types of coolant mix , a gungy pink sludge seems to appear .
@@tonyperkins9549 thanks for your response. Was one side giving hot air and the other side giving cool/Luke warm ? If it is the heater matrix that gets blocked then why does the passenger side still work fine? Would it not all stop working?
Also I have had a check what coolant I used and it is G12+ (this was given to me by the shop) 🤦🏼♂️ I took it back to the garage and he’s adamant there’s nothing to do with the coolant change and has told me it is ‘Blend Door Actuator’ however I don’t know as my heater stopped working when I did the coolant change.
Not sure what to do :(
Hello i have a Audi A6 c6 2011 2.0tdi i have an issue whit the temperature gauge. I have changed the timing belt waterpump cirkulationpump thermostat. The car reaches 90 but when i stand still and put full heat in the car the temperatur gauge drops can someone help???
Can't really tell you any more than what's in the video, i tried to cover most things. Did you check out my other video anout the 2nd thermostat
@@davesterl i checked it but Audi dealer here in sweden Said that my car doesnt have another thermostat then the large one i have changed. I really dont know what to to anymore
Acording to Audi the bag is there for when you add only water to keep the silica levels up. I fully agree with Dave remove the bag . EA288 engine th-cam.com/video/1wauedXMKbc/w-d-xo.html
Audi training video
Another environmental cheat by VW group eh Dave , if they know they burst , they should recall them and do flushing for free , did an Audi A4 saloon on Friday ,rear spring , what a job , rusted seized bolts, stuck in bushes ended up lowering the subframe to get out the broken spring and fitting compressed new one , at least it passed mot💪, great video as usual Dave , take care
Aye mike, you know it. Its why i said for people to make up their own mind.
this is why i only buy Japanese!!
Dont buy vw audi cars they use to be bullet proof now they have all sorts of problems. My problem is I drive vw golf I'm thinking of getting rid of it after watching this video and maybe buy fiat punto.
im sure its a great video, but i was done after hearing the stupid what ever it is he said at the start.
Hahaha tough shit
That letter is rubbish. The coolant temperature should not fluctate if coolant system is working correctly. I actually have similar problem with engine under heating and even changing the in hose thermostat didnt help to solve the problem. Even audi dealership and german technicians dont know how to fix my car lol
Take from it what you want. It is a Technical Product Information document issued by the manufacturer, not a letter.
@@davesterl issued by the manufacturer to cover themself. Unfortunately we dont have the lemon laws like the US. I have a diesel that have consumption like petrol car because the engine cant reach optimal temperature.
Mine was staying at audi for more than a month and they were saying that is normal. My question was why the first 5 years car was working fine and then suddenly started underheating. Everything was changed or tested with a donor part and nothing solved the problem. If is normal it will do it straight out of the factory, not 5 years later. My only theory is that the firmware upgrade for the AC control unit is messed up and is not regulating the coolant flow properly when heating is on. They made upgrade in august 2016, ive noticed the issue september/october. Still not fixed 5 years later.