@DoURC seriously, yours was the fifth video I posted this question, and you're the only one who awnserd so far.. qudos for your great and helpful spirit. Knowledge sharing at its best..
THANK YOU!!! You explained the forward/reverse thing PERFECTLY!! Other videos, I swear they were leaving out a step and the manual was no help! Thanks again!
Thank you for tips and showing me how. I came here to program my remote instead of reading the book 😅. Thanks again. Just got my K5 Blazer Today. She is my first crawler. Ill be back when want to oil shox.
Yes big difference ain’t it 👍👍😎 Love driving my K5’s I have three of them now black one orange and white and just got their first modded silver one from fair RC so now I have to convert another set over actually two sets haven’t done the black one yet. Well appreciate you sharing I’ll be watching for the next one until then peace and chicken grease 😁👍👍😎
Thanks very much mate, appreciate you watching and commenting. 👍 Sounds like you've got a nice collection there. I was looking at the silver one from Fair RC, looks nice. 👍
Yeah convert my shocks over to oil one of the best mods And don’t cost you nothing but the oil. Watching now appreciate the info I also already did the screws put them in the back side Yep big difference
It makes a massive difference doesn't it, transforms it if you ask me. The screws is a great little free mod too isn't it. 👍 I really enjoy running the K5 and it's a fantastic looking rig. 👍😎
1:53 - Better Driveability - Crawler Mode Changes Double click the REV, blinking, press once the BIND, it will be FWD-BRK-REV, press the BIND again, then it will enable the FWD-REV
@@DoURC I know, but if you do not press BIND twice, it will not change to FWD-REV. Press once, stays in F-B-R, even if it was already in F-B-R from factory, press again, it changes to F-R.
@@DoURC You aint lying! No more body rattle or roll over in 2nd gear. Creeps way better over the rocks too! Just need some weighted black wheels and squishier tires and she's gold!
@audiosoil1 Yeah it's so much nicer. I fitted the Injora black brass wheels to mine with their comp pin tyres and it made a huge difference. Video on my channel if you haven't seen it. 👍
@@DoURC I'll be sure to check it out. Weighted wheels and tires are next on the list. Already put injora metal drive shafts on. They literally broke on the 1st run.
@unloveableandre Do you mean why put them in the same bag? If so I don't know. For the shocks I'd suggest just using one o ring on the bottom as I said in my video, then the larger o ring on the threaded shock cap. I've had no leaking on all the ones I've done. 👍
Hello friend, I used my washers for the top of the tower... I assume they are accounting for the difference from the o-ring on the top threads. That was my best guess.
It should still do it, works on the newer FCX24 Lemur and they all use the same ESC. You should be double tapping the Rev button very quickly, then the LED will flash. 👍
Nope, I've tried all manner of tappings. No flashing. The rev button does work because I can get the channel to reverse. It just seems like the feature has been disabled. I may email FMS. @@DoURC
Are you trying to change between forward, brake, reverse and just forward, reverse? I'd try it again, just make sure you're doing it pretty quickly like I did in the video. It should work. 👍
@DoURC where the control arm meets the steering knuckle. The screws you loosened were hit that part, where it appears to have a lot of plastic that can be sanded down. But, I see you're happy with your work too.
@Outrjs I guess you could do. The ally and brass upgrades you can get I believe have more clearance too. Tbh with the screws removed, the next part it would start hitting if you added more angle would be the diff housing I reckon.
Well it's definitely not going to work if you don't have the cap, as all the oil will just fall out. The bottom cap should just pull off the shock body, the top hat you screw on. If you didn't have the cap, you'd be able to fully see inside the shock body and the shock shaft would have lots of side play! Is that what you've got?
@brianbiro9094 That's weird, as it can't fall off as the shock shaft goes through it. I'd contact FMS or where you bought it from, see if you can get a replacement. 👍
YOU ARE A SAINT!!
YOU HAVE NO FRIGGIN IDEA HOW MUCH I HAVE SUFFRED TO KNOW THE DRIVER TYPE AND SIZE BIT FOR THOSE LOUSY SCROWES!!!
🤣 No worries, glad to be of help. 👍
@DoURC seriously, yours was the fifth video I posted this question, and you're the only one who awnserd so far.. qudos for your great and helpful spirit. Knowledge sharing at its best..
@MyGTisxHUNTER07x No worries, happy to help. 👍
THANK YOU!!! You explained the forward/reverse thing PERFECTLY!! Other videos, I swear they were leaving out a step and the manual was no help! Thanks again!
No problem at all, glad it was helpful. I'm not a fan of using the brake, much prefer just forward/reverse. 👍
Very true I prefer just forward to reverse much better aswell
@iTsBagOchips Yeah, if you've got a decent drag brake you don't really need the brake for most stuff. 👍
@iTsBagOchips Yeah, if you've got a decent drag brake you don't really need the brake for most stuff. 👍
@DoURC yep for sure, I have the fms power wagon and I turned off the brake reverse immediately
Thank you for tips and showing me how. I came here to program my remote instead of reading the book 😅. Thanks again. Just got my K5 Blazer Today. She is my first crawler. Ill be back when want to oil shox.
No problem at all, glad it helped. 👍😎
They're great little rigs. 👍
That steering mod is mint!
It's neat isn't it. 👍
Just like most things in life, anything that's free is always that little bit better! 🤣👍
Yes big difference ain’t it 👍👍😎 Love driving my K5’s I have three of them now black one orange and white and just got their first modded silver one from fair RC so now I have to convert another set over actually two sets haven’t done the black one yet. Well appreciate you sharing I’ll be watching for the next one until then peace and chicken grease 😁👍👍😎
Thanks very much mate, appreciate you watching and commenting. 👍
Sounds like you've got a nice collection there. I was looking at the silver one from Fair RC, looks nice. 👍
Yeah convert my shocks over to oil one of the best mods And don’t cost you nothing but the oil. Watching now appreciate the info I also already did the screws put them in the back side Yep big difference
It makes a massive difference doesn't it, transforms it if you ask me.
The screws is a great little free mod too isn't it. 👍
I really enjoy running the K5 and it's a fantastic looking rig. 👍😎
Nice tips!
As always, pleasant video, explanations are perfect (I’m french viewer and your speech flow is right) illustrated and proved !
Thanks very much, glad it was useful and easy to follow. 👍
Appreciate your feedback 👍
It's pushing the cap off because your not seating the o rings in the shock body right. There is a recessed area there that both rings fit snuggly in
Thanks for the advice. Seems to work fine with just 1 o ring too though. 👍
1:53 - Better Driveability - Crawler Mode Changes
Double click the REV, blinking, press once the BIND, it will be FWD-BRK-REV, press the BIND again, then it will enable the FWD-REV
It comes stock in fwd-brake-reverse, so you just need to change it to fwd-reverse if you want to ditch the brake. 👍
@@DoURC I know, but if you do not press BIND twice, it will not change to FWD-REV. Press once, stays in F-B-R, even if it was already in F-B-R from factory, press again, it changes to F-R.
This is a great video, I just purchased this rig and it helped a lot, much appreciated..
Thanks very much, glad it was helpful.👍
The forward/ reverse setting. Thank god for your video 👍 was bugging me like hell
🤣 You're welcome, glad it helped. I can't stand the brake, forward/reverse all day long for me. 👍😎
VERY VERY VERY helpful! Thank you so much for being thorough! My blazer has no more bounce!
No problem at all, glad it was helpful. It's so much nicer with oil filled shocks isn't it. 👍
@@DoURC You aint lying! No more body rattle or roll over in 2nd gear. Creeps way better over the rocks too! Just need some weighted black wheels and squishier tires and she's gold!
@audiosoil1 Yeah it's so much nicer. I fitted the Injora black brass wheels to mine with their comp pin tyres and it made a huge difference. Video on my channel if you haven't seen it. 👍
@@DoURC I'll be sure to check it out. Weighted wheels and tires are next on the list. Already put injora metal drive shafts on. They literally broke on the 1st run.
@audiosoil1 Excellent. 👍
That's no good on the drive shafts. Mine have been fine so far thankfully, even after mudding it. 👍
Yess thank u I’m setting her bout to buy new shocks to put oil in 😂😂😂 saved me 50 bucks
🤣 Excellent, glad it helped. The stock shocks with oil make a noticeable difference, much nicer movement imo. 👍
Another MOD would be to grease up the portal axle gears with Marine Grease!! They are somewhat very dry from factory! ;)
Thanks for the tip, I'll be adding brass soon so I'll do it all then. 👍
@@DoURCToo bad they didn't do steel rather than brass. Steel weighs more.
@@keldonator Brass weighs more than Steel, dude. IDK who told you otherwise lol. It's also, plenty strong for only a small RC.
@@bra1nc417d Yea I'm dumb.
Looks Great probably better than a trx4m now it has oil
It's definitely much better with oil filled shocks, looks much more scale too. 👍
Great video. Thank you!
Thanks very much, glad you enjoyed it 👍
Thanks a lot buddy!!
Hope it was helpful. 👍
Very much bro. I've got this now. Do you recommend getting the axial scx24 Chevy?
It’s better to lubricate the shaft are use green slime because the rubber O-ring is dry they slide on a lot easier and without tearing
Thanks very much, great tip. 👍👍
1.5 Hex wrench is what I use easy Peezy
Everything is so small on these mini crawlers isn't it. If you've got big butter fingers like me, I just drop everything! 🤣
6:35 The bag comes with 4 metal washers, what are those for?
Not sure, I never used them. They look like they'd be used for shimming the diffs maybe?! 🤷♂️🤔
@@DoURC but why put in the o-rings shocks bag?
@unloveableandre Do you mean why put them in the same bag? If so I don't know.
For the shocks I'd suggest just using one o ring on the bottom as I said in my video, then the larger o ring on the threaded shock cap. I've had no leaking on all the ones I've done. 👍
Hello friend, I used my washers for the top of the tower... I assume they are accounting for the difference from the o-ring on the top threads. That was my best guess.
@@royalshank3267 that's what it's for
If we wanted to upgrade the servo. What are you recommending?
I haven't changed it yet, Injora do a 7kg one for a decent price though. 👍
I'm totally torn between the defender and k5, can't afford both so which do i get 1st. the $64000 question. 🤔
Good question, I'd suggest waiting until the new FCX18 is released and see what that's like, as you may change your mind. 👍😎
You made the shock conversion look not as hard as I thought!
Controversial opinion but I kinda like this particular trucks bouncy-ness haha
Excellent, hope it was helpful. 👍
I can understand that, it's definitely more stable with the oil filled shocks though. 👍
@DoURC I think when I buy a second one for a comp build I'll oil them 😄 thanks
@@caseys_cozy_garage Sounds like a plan. 👍
I cant seem to get into the double tap flashing mode. Perhaps the latest batch has this disabled?
It should still do it, works on the newer FCX24 Lemur and they all use the same ESC. You should be double tapping the Rev button very quickly, then the LED will flash. 👍
Nope, I've tried all manner of tappings. No flashing. The rev button does work because I can get the channel to reverse. It just seems like the feature has been disabled. I may email FMS. @@DoURC
wen i double click the reverse,the green button stays solid[it wont blink] any ideas? cheers
Are you clicking it too slow maybe?
What should i do if i press the rev twice but the green light does not blink for me to continue setting the throttle
Are you trying to change between forward, brake, reverse and just forward, reverse? I'd try it again, just make sure you're doing it pretty quickly like I did in the video. It should work. 👍
@@DoURC Yes. i tried a couple if times. The greenlight does not blink , hence i cant continue with the setting. Same goes to the drag brake serting
Can the transmitter be reset?
@@AlexChang-c8k Sounds a bit weird. Do you still have the manual, or see if you can download it online and see what it says in there. 👍
@@AlexChang-c8k You can re-bind it. Should tell you how in the manual. 👍
Could you sand down the control arm?
You talking about the suspension links or something else?
@DoURC where the control arm meets the steering knuckle. The screws you loosened were hit that part, where it appears to have a lot of plastic that can be sanded down.
But, I see you're happy with your work too.
@Outrjs I guess you could do. The ally and brass upgrades you can get I believe have more clearance too. Tbh with the screws removed, the next part it would start hitting if you added more angle would be the diff housing I reckon.
@@DoURC Thank you. I'm enjoying your videos.
How much is that remote¿
About $140, use the Linktree link in my Bio to see more. 👍
Well my shock body has No CAP so o-rings just slide on the shaft NO Difference from Stock........WTF🙁😠😡
Well it's definitely not going to work if you don't have the cap, as all the oil will just fall out. The bottom cap should just pull off the shock body, the top hat you screw on.
If you didn't have the cap, you'd be able to fully see inside the shock body and the shock shaft would have lots of side play! Is that what you've got?
@@DoURC yup no cap on it wtf 🙁
@brianbiro9094 That's weird, as it can't fall off as the shock shaft goes through it. I'd contact FMS or where you bought it from, see if you can get a replacement. 👍
@@DoURC it's from Amazon
Awesome Info Man, thinking about getting 1 of these😜👊👍✌️🦅🇺🇸🦼
Thanks very much, glad it was helpful. 👍
They are great little rigs. Got a full review on my channel too plus a review of the new FCX18 👍