Absolutely superb tutorial video. My 4 mix was getting really brutal to start. Got the kit. Followed your step by step instructions. Job done. Thanks. 10/10 👍
Hi quick question, if the machine starts easily, is that a sign that valves don't need adjustment or would you still say they need to be adjusted as a matter of course? Friend said to me I need to adjust them every 25 hours of use. Thanks
@@fatsoulcrew100 hours is the required adjustment schedule for valves. Whenever I've adjusted them, they've never been in spec. A KM131r lasted me 4-years of self-employed gardening use. The new one isn't like the last.. It's leaking on the air-filter already. Just adjust them and change the valve-cover and washer... They come in a kit with the feeler-gauge. Do the filters and plug as well.
@@ReggieChump ah thanks reggiechump, really appreciate the advice. 100 hrs much better than 25, was worried would have to do it all the time. have bought the feeler gauge will be doing it soon.
I much preferred the older Stihls which didn't have valves... had a 185 I think it was... trouble free for 15 years, finally wore out, bought a new 'improved' model with valves, made it to year#2.. valve bent... junked that thing. Bought an old 2nd hand stihl with an 009 engine.. put a 10'' saw blade on.. it's a BEAST!!
I just got one that was highly abused in a commercial concrete setting. Filled with dust. Left in the back of a truck tools and everything thrown on on it really heavy stuff it lived in the weather rain snow everything...... The shaft on the power brush is a little bent. Still works and starts fine but pulling the cord seems pretty rough to me. I forget what it felt like brand new but I have chain saws that pull easier. The things only a year old I think it has a lot more life in it. Boss was throwing it out because the little plastic orange carb switch broke off. He went and spent 800 bucks on new one instead of a 14 dollar part.... Needless to say I got it running I just need to do this to it I think and change all the filters
Adjusted mine today as I was having some running problems. This was one of two issues, the second being carb related. Damn E10 fuel :-(. Thanks for the help
@@RJLgardens Something has gone wrong when your garden tools run on a better quality fuel than your car. They generally get E5, the car gets E10. I tend to use E5 with a fuel preserver from Mountfield, but there's always the time when you run out and have to use what you've got on hand.
Sir,thank you on an excellent video 👍.Now I know what my problem is.I own Stihl FS 260,I use the same kit and the same procedure , right ? Greetings from Croatia.
Could this explain an engine that seems to run a bit rough when over 50% throttle? Any ideas if not this? Maybe it's me, but seems like it should be smoother at full throttle.
It could be a number of things, I would check air filter, fuel filter, sparkplug, fuel quality and then look at the carb itself and check its adjusted correctly, it may even need a carb clean. Always check the basics before doing the valves, but could be those as well. 🤷♂️
@@RJLgardens The valves seemed ok when I checked. The carb seems quite complex and messy, so I haven't opened that up. I swapped the chainsaw plug in and got the same result. Tried with air filter off. It might be the case that nothing is wrong, but it just sounds rough to me when over 50% throttle. I haven't tried it under load and maybe that matters for this engine (unlike a chainsaw for example) I couldn't find much on TH-cam to confirm how the engine should sound. This one briefly shows the sound I'm talking about when throttle gets close to wide open. th-cam.com/video/vC81047EeRs/w-d-xo.html And this one shows what I would consider a smoother running engine th-cam.com/video/IOotUxoTR5w/w-d-xo.html It's a KM 130 R, but they all seem similar.
If you are on about the burbling when at full throttle, that could be just the revs hitting the limiter, my km131 does this and makes it sound rough but its nothing to worry about. You could open up (Counter clockwise) the H adjustment screw on the carb a little bit to possibly stop that.
I’ve had running issues with my 131 since I bought it three years ago. It’s had the pistons adjusted soon after buying it, the tank valve changed twice and I’m about to change it again myself. When I asked my local authorised stihl service centre what would cause a tank valve to fail so often, they seemed guarded or reluctant to offer a suggestion. I’ve owned km130 and a km131 before buying a third km and never had any issues. I’ve bought and used stihl tools professionally for 27 years and never replaced a tank valve. This thing is so unreliable, I’ve bought a kma135 with a 500s battery
Late to the party but what was the tank valve issue causing? I’ve a couple, one of which has become a pain in the arse, fires up fine initially, then if I switch off, floods so bad it’s dripping out the filter😂 I’m thinking it’s possibly the diaphragm, but also wondering what else it could be & tank vent was one I thought of… though I’m fairly clueless😂 Apologies for the essay & thanks👍🏻
Bad-Apple.... Friday finish from Stihl. Same here, 4 years of every day use (well serviced by myself) no problems. Sold it, still running, but worn out! New one won't stop getting the air-filter wet and cuts out.
@@ReggieChump I don’t use the motor much - unless it’s for particularly heavy work - soon after posting, I bought a kma131 with two 300s batteries and has become my go to kombi. I also bought the reciprocating cutter - no more strimming dramas with clients smashed double glazed patio doors for me!
Hello. Help me, please.... The KM131r keeps leaking and getting the air-filter wet. Valves adjusted, new air-filter, plug, fuel-filter. Thank you for the content 👍
Try as i might I cant get to see a video of this running in order to be allowed to see the exhaust fumes, if it needs 2 stroke oil going in ? then therefore you 2 stroke emissions coming out ? yeah ? so what is point ? this thing poses more questions than answers, if its so good how come it takes a Manufacturer of very small engines to create the concept ?
No smoke in the exhaust at all. This operates totally different than a 2-stroke engine with half as many compression strokes and more complete fuel burn due to the valves vs transfer ports on a 2 stroke.
Today at 22.04.24. I just did that procedure and rectifieed the problem. You are spot on mate. Thank you so much!
Nice one mate, glad it helped 👍
Absolutely superb tutorial video. My 4 mix was getting really brutal to start. Got the kit. Followed your step by step instructions. Job done. Thanks. 10/10 👍
Nice one, glad it helped 👍
Hi quick question, if the machine starts easily, is that a sign that valves don't need adjustment or would you still say they need to be adjusted as a matter of course?
Friend said to me I need to adjust them every 25 hours of use. Thanks
@@fatsoulcrew100 hours is the required adjustment schedule for valves. Whenever I've adjusted them, they've never been in spec. A KM131r lasted me 4-years of self-employed gardening use. The new one isn't like the last..
It's leaking on the air-filter already.
Just adjust them and change the valve-cover and washer... They come in a kit with the feeler-gauge. Do the filters and plug as well.
@@ReggieChump ah thanks reggiechump, really appreciate the advice. 100 hrs much better than 25, was worried would have to do it all the time. have bought the feeler gauge will be doing it soon.
I much preferred the older Stihls which didn't have valves... had a 185 I think it was... trouble free for 15 years, finally wore out, bought a new 'improved' model with valves, made it to year#2.. valve bent... junked that thing. Bought an old 2nd hand stihl with an 009 engine.. put a 10'' saw blade on.. it's a BEAST!!
Yes quality of things certainly going down hill fast. Cheers
I like the 4 stokes they have more power
It's an EPA thing. The emissions are cleaner on the 4-mix.
I just got one that was highly abused in a commercial concrete setting. Filled with dust. Left in the back of a truck tools and everything thrown on on it really heavy stuff it lived in the weather rain snow everything...... The shaft on the power brush is a little bent. Still works and starts fine but pulling the cord seems pretty rough to me. I forget what it felt like brand new but I have chain saws that pull easier. The things only a year old I think it has a lot more life in it. Boss was throwing it out because the little plastic orange carb switch broke off. He went and spent 800 bucks on new one instead of a 14 dollar part.... Needless to say I got it running I just need to do this to it I think and change all the filters
Amazes me that most pros dont look after their equipment considering its what earns them a living. Good luck sorting it out 👍
I did cge pistons rings seals ..gasket..fly wheel.adjust valve ..but wks great
Adjusted mine today as I was having some running problems. This was one of two issues, the second being carb related. Damn E10 fuel :-(. Thanks for the help
Cheers, yeh i stay away from e10, not worth the risk in my eyes.
@@RJLgardens Something has gone wrong when your garden tools run on a better quality fuel than your car. They generally get E5, the car gets E10.
I tend to use E5 with a fuel preserver from Mountfield, but there's always the time when you run out and have to use what you've got on hand.
What is that white electrical looking plug for on the engine, next between the coil and air filter housing?
Looks like just an electrical wire connector, nothing special.
Great vid thank you fr the help
No problem 👍
Do you do this adjustment with a cold or warm engine?
I've always done it on a cold engine 👍
Do you adjust carburetor in this model same as in any other kombi engine or leaf blower?
yeh same way
Sir,thank you on an excellent video 👍.Now I know what my problem is.I own Stihl FS 260,I use the same kit and the same procedure , right ? Greetings from Croatia.
This is only for 4-mix engines. I believe the fs260 is a 2-mix. so this procedure doesnt apply to you and not needed. 👍
@@RJLgardens Thank you Sir.
Could this explain an engine that seems to run a bit rough when over 50% throttle? Any ideas if not this? Maybe it's me, but seems like it should be smoother at full throttle.
It could be a number of things, I would check air filter, fuel filter, sparkplug, fuel quality and then look at the carb itself and check its adjusted correctly, it may even need a carb clean. Always check the basics before doing the valves, but could be those as well. 🤷♂️
@@RJLgardens The valves seemed ok when I checked. The carb seems quite complex and messy, so I haven't opened that up. I swapped the chainsaw plug in and got the same result. Tried with air filter off. It might be the case that nothing is wrong, but it just sounds rough to me when over 50% throttle. I haven't tried it under load and maybe that matters for this engine (unlike a chainsaw for example) I couldn't find much on TH-cam to confirm how the engine should sound. This one briefly shows the sound I'm talking about when throttle gets close to wide open. th-cam.com/video/vC81047EeRs/w-d-xo.html And this one shows what I would consider a smoother running engine th-cam.com/video/IOotUxoTR5w/w-d-xo.html It's a KM 130 R, but they all seem similar.
If you are on about the burbling when at full throttle, that could be just the revs hitting the limiter, my km131 does this and makes it sound rough but its nothing to worry about. You could open up (Counter clockwise) the H adjustment screw on the carb a little bit to possibly stop that.
@@RJLgardens It starts at about 50% throttle and gets a little worse from there.
@@kiwicam6419 Dunno mate, i would defo be checking the carb adjusting screws to start with
I’ve had running issues with my 131 since I bought it three years ago. It’s had the pistons adjusted soon after buying it, the tank valve changed twice and I’m about to change it again myself. When I asked my local authorised stihl service centre what would cause a tank valve to fail so often, they seemed guarded or reluctant to offer a suggestion. I’ve owned km130 and a km131 before buying a third km and never had any issues. I’ve bought and used stihl tools professionally for 27 years and never replaced a tank valve. This thing is so unreliable, I’ve bought a kma135 with a 500s battery
That sounds annoying. I've had no issues with mine its been spot on. 🤷♂️
Late to the party but what was the tank valve issue causing?
I’ve a couple, one of which has become a pain in the arse, fires up fine initially, then if I switch off, floods so bad it’s dripping out the filter😂
I’m thinking it’s possibly the diaphragm, but also wondering what else it could be & tank vent was one I thought of… though I’m fairly clueless😂
Apologies for the essay & thanks👍🏻
Bad-Apple.... Friday finish from Stihl. Same here, 4 years of every day use (well serviced by myself) no problems. Sold it, still running, but worn out! New one won't stop getting the air-filter wet and cuts out.
@@ReggieChump I don’t use the motor much - unless it’s for particularly heavy work - soon after posting, I bought a kma131 with two 300s batteries and has become my go to kombi. I also bought the reciprocating cutter - no more strimming dramas with clients smashed double glazed patio doors for me!
Exact problem ive had, again 3 yrs old from new. Did you sort it?
Hello. Help me, please.... The KM131r keeps leaking and getting the air-filter wet. Valves adjusted, new air-filter, plug, fuel-filter.
Thank you for the content 👍
Sounds like a carb issue, possible needle valve problems. 👍
@@RJLgardens Thank you. Will try to adjust the carb 👍
@@ReggieChump carb will likely need taking apart and cleaning, you prob have a bit of debris in there.
I laughed when I saw the air filter because that sht never got cleaned. I think I know where to start lol
@@KF1 This video is specifically about just the valves, and the filter did get a blow out before putting back together.
All u got to do take the very top off and take value cover off
I just guess and have no problems use dame gasket too
Try as i might I cant get to see a video of this running in order to be allowed to see the exhaust fumes, if it needs 2 stroke oil going in ? then therefore you 2 stroke emissions coming out ? yeah ? so what is point ? this thing poses more questions than answers, if its so good how come it takes a Manufacturer of very small engines to create the concept ?
No smoke in the exhaust at all. This operates totally different than a 2-stroke engine with half as many compression strokes and more complete fuel burn due to the valves vs transfer ports on a 2 stroke.