Whenever a new video pops up in my feed I always go grab either a cup of coffee or a cold one and then get the schematic in another tab so I can ''play along at home'' 😊🥼🔈🔉🔊
Thanks Terry. One tip about matching the original wiring when installing a new socket - your iPhone/Android can be your best friend. Take a reference photo of the wiring before you de-solder the original socket. That plus the schematic is a belt and suspenders approach for replacing the socket. I started doing this years ago when doing auto and appliance repairs. Saves me time and improves my odds of getting it right before I power up. :-)
Great video, as usual. By the way. I fixed my Carvin Vintage 16 that had the dead reverb that I wrote to you about. You suggested a new tank. It took some doing because Accutronics are Korean made now, not here by Chicago anymore. I had to get it out of a warehouse in Germany of all places. Plugged it in and Presto! Reverb City!!. Thanks for the great advice. Love the channel.
Camera angle was great. Your verbal instructions and descriptions are just as valuable as the video. I can't tell you how much I've learned about amps from watching this channel. A slow steady stream of osmosis.
Tech Tip: Any unused sections of a can capacitor should have their terminal shorted to ground. This prevents that unused section from building a charge over time, and that charge would not self discharge.
Maybe a resistor to ground would be good, bleed off any charge if the cap shorted internally between sections it wouldn't be a dead short to ground. I'm not sure how common it is for a short between sections to occur.
@Israel Bettle Are you actually telling someone you hacked your girlfriend's account and are telling someone else how to do it? Why? Would you like it if someone hacked yours? Or are you a 'bot that just answered yourself as "Huxley Victor", saying you'd try it out but giving an update without editing your comment?
Hope your doing well Terry. Been watching you for years now and love your content and the knowledge you give to the community. Another great video and repair as always. :)
Those blue caps are not so bad, as long as they are not leaky. Think of all the great sounding Silver Face amps. I doubt any of the bands we all grew up with changed out the caps in their brand new amps. Haha , thanks for the video. Best from Australia
At 10:10 in the video, when you cleaned the new cap solder connections, I did happen to notice that all the original chassis connections have flux residue..
I think the bias res. Should be atleast 8 to 900 ohms 44 ma Will shorten the 6v6 length of. Time 35 Ma cathode current is HOT nun the less Terry You do very fine good Work I like you your also Goofy ha ha. Fine Business ol man KC4ITU
Thanks for another great video Terry. I had a similar "cooking" Champ last week. I replaced the rectifier with a 5Y3 to bring it down to a level more appropriate for a 6V6. Much happier B+ and current. Looking forward to your streaming. Please keep it Aussie time-zone friendly :-)
So fara, any time I've seen burning from arcing like that, it's been from an internal short in the tube, or from arcing from cold solder on the wire on a pin. I've also seen a cockroach bridge itself between pins and get good and fried leaving a stinky mess behind as well,.... yuck.
It also could be caused by movement of loose terminals underneath the socket intermittently touching each other, or at least close enough for a few hundred volts to jump. I agree, and would tap on that tube to be certain that there is no intermittent shorts within the tube. Especially when everything is "nice and hot" inside with a heavy load.
Terry, I had a strange thought (though that's nothing new for me). You didn't have anyone handy to play the guitar there at the end, but how about a separate audio stream over the Internet from the owner's guitar to the amp input at D-Lab? You could actually have the customer test the amp in real time. I can think of a few possible ways to do it. Just a thought, would be neat to try it, but it might be more trouble than it's worth. Oh, and thanks for this video and all the rest of them. 👍☺👍
Terry, great video but I have a question: I’m getting a couple of people (that I like) that are begging me to work on their amps after having bad experiences with other shops. I have no problems with the technical side (maybe lacking in some of the lore and component-sourcing) but really have no idea what to charge. One of these is an SVT monster that needs sockets as well as the usual. I’m not looking forward to all this hand work and due to the extensive nature, they know the have to compensate me. I see a lot of repair videos but not on charging and the money side. If you could give me a little guidance, I’d sure appreciate it! Thanks & 73… 😊
I've got a vintage princeton reverb that's basically a time machine unit, someone bought it yesterday, left it on my front porch.. iots got the brand new stock RCA fenners... its MINT 10++.. the only thing is the power tubes are loose, and they pull out so easily, being upside down they made me nervous so I carefully installed spring retainers you mount at the socket screws.. used rubber bands as to not scratch the screws, what I am looking for is a male to female socket that has extra large male prongs that will snug into those loose fenner sockets real tight then I can plug a tube into that.. no retainers or maybe keep the spring top clamp style on there.. the condition of this I don't even want to tamper with a screw much less heat a solder joint, obviously I need a good solid valve connection so need a good no tamper solution? maybe there are power tubes that have extra large diameter pins? the 6V6 power tubes have a coin base with flimsy thin pins? just seems sketchy to me..
That's a simple tube socket to replace. I'm currently looking at a Philco radio with a bad socket. It's dense with wiring, resistors, & capacitor connections. Simply desoldering is going to be a nightmare. I'll be replacing all components attached to facilitate replacement. Simply cut off attached parts.
I have a general question for All Bench Tech's out there. How much do you charge for repair work? Do you charge by the hour? Do you have a minimum charge? It has been suggested to me that I am not charging what I should. I looked online and see a bench Tech should make a minimum of $15 per hour. I would really appreciate some advice.
What wattage soldering iron do you use? Reason I ask is: soldering or unsoldering directly on the chassis is always a challenge for me; due to the dissipation of heat on the large surface area.
Always love these videos, particularly with Champs. Can anyone comment on the choice to use two 40s on the can cap? I've heard of one bumped to 40 from 20, but not two? Obviously, just extra filtering, but original spec is usually 20 on all, or later schematics 40 in one stage, but not two.
So if your line voltage is over 120 volts A/C, what is that doing to the heater voltage on your 12ax7 and 6v6 tubes? Won't that make it too high as well Ter?
What kind of soldering iron do you use when you are soldering to the chassis? I bought a 100 Watt iron that is supposed to get up to 1000 degrees but the solder just beads up when I try to use it.
I always enjoy your videos, thanks. A question; is it common to find that the cathode bias resistor called for in the schematic is actually wrong and allows it to run too hot? I'm just finishing a rebuild of a Hallicrafters S-76 and found that the bias resistor on the 6K6 output tube, 390 ohms, allowed about 46ma of plate current or 171% of max. I replaced it with a 680 ohm resistor and now have about 26ma plate current. I'm just wondering if this a common thing to find that it had been biased hot from the factory? It makes me feel a bit weird to ignore what's on the schematic.
Schematics were designed to work from the lower power supply voltage ( 110VAC) in the past compared to today's (125VAC). So it would prudent to lower the current to the specs level so you don't overdrive your tube! Following vintage schematics is OK but you have to think what about what is really going on in today"s world and make the appropriate adjustments.
@@hestheMaster I also calculated the current using the voltages they list on the schematic, (mine are little higher) and it would still be running very hot. It's like they didn't mind. Also, this radio is rated up to 125VAC. I'm curious what their thinking was or if this is common on communications rigs. It's not very loud...I've been thinking of subbing a 6v6 for the 6K6 and going back to the 390 ohm cathode resistor.
@@TheDevice9 Sounds like you need to visit Antique Radios Forums. There are a lot of posts on this receiver as well as some mods to make it sound better. What you purpose sounds reasonable BTW
I'm going to build a 5F2A Princeton amp from Mojo, I don't think I want my 6v6 passing 44 mA at 429 vac rms (I'm assuming that is plate volts you are measuring), and 18.5 watts. I've got a 1k Ohm 5 watt and a 750 Ohm 5 watt to choose from in the bias circuit. I get up to 122 vac rms at my house at off peak hours.
Those Fender style sockets are not hard to get. Mojotone and Tube Depot sells them. Getting NOS micanol brown Fender sockets would be something entirely different. I’d buy everyone out!
I have two of those sockets that I've been saving to build something nice for myself. For some reason that pattern in the brown always reminds me of a bowling ball ? :O)
As nice as it is to use original type sockets, I replace everything with Belton micalex now. The quality and characteristics of micalex are just too good to ignore.
I've got a Bassman Ten of this vintage in my office here and when I just plugged it in for the first time in like 10 years (long story) it did the old loud feedback hum which I later figured out was called redplating after about a minute of playing. I reached back there to shut if off before it melted down and there was so much heat I pulled my hand away. Before I could unplug it from the wall the fuse took care of shutting her down. Pulled it apart and I found that both power amp tube sockets are toasty like the ones in the video (loose pins and signs of arcing) and the one was bad enough that one of the soldered terminals had partially melted. My question for you is, would it be worth just soldering in new sockets (would that likely semi-permanently fix it)? If that's a no go, can you quote me what it would cost to have it gone through like you do in the video here? It's a bit of a family heirloom at this point, so I'm looking to get it back up and running, and I definitely don't want to do more damage to it.
I'm looking at it some more and it looks like the input lines that go into the transformer might have joined the party with the arcing. It looks like the hot lead going from the power switch to the transformer may have been arcing across two of the terminals there. I'd be really stoked if that's all that was wrong with it. A couple wire splices and a new socket might fix it right up.
Oh man I think I got lucky here. I don't even think the sockets are damaged other than the metal at the very tip of those two terminals that arced across the hot lead. I might re-wet the solder but otherwise those sockets look fine. I'm going to try re-splicing those leads and see if that fixes it. Looks like a simple case of wire chafing on the input power.
I have -two- three questions, Terry: 1) How do _you_ spell Snozzeramus / Snauzeramous / ??? 😉 2) Do you prefer using a heavy-duty iron over a soldering gun? And if so, why? Just curious. 3) Are you ever going to make a compilation video of clips, every time you said or used Snozzeramus? ( Only half joking, I'd enjoy watching that; as busy as you are, get your son to do it! ) As always, Terry, thanks for sharing your experience with us.
I just got copywrong nailed for a little Beatles in the background for a bit. I hope it''s allowed for fair use. Copyright is the tight to sue, so YT should not be so freaky about it, nobody Sue's unless losses are worth it.
TH-cam has gone way too far with not allowing fair use of snips of any music content. Radio repair guys are getting their vids pulled down or flagged just for radio dial tuning through stations. Totally stupid, like someone is going to make a copy of a crappy microphone recording that is 15 seconds long and play it over and over. Boy have we gone way to far with this stuff, remember Napster? But this is not that.
I adopted an POS solid state Fender M-80 rack mount head. I was forced to take it with the 2 cabs that I bought. It's in rough shape, but works, for the most part So, I got it cleaned up and relabled (front panel is missing). It makes an intermittent "buzzing" sound when powered on, towards the rear of the chassis. *NOT* a hum or "noise" that is typical from high(ish in this case) gain amps. This *literally* sounds like an active hornet's nest. If it helps it sounds like it is coming from the rear, right hand side of the chassis. Any suggestions? I know I should just throw it out but there is something about this turd that seems worth polishing. Like OJ, let's take a stab at it!
Just a guess but 50 year old electrolytic capacitors may be to blame. . You really want to replace all the electrolytic capacitors in the power supply section with slightly higher voltage ratings. If its 100 volts got to 160 volts, 100 volts go to 120 volts etc. Anything higher it is OK to leave as same but I doubt there are higher voltage rated capacitors in it. You need to check resistors too. Some go open! Often you may see burn marks on the PC board for the higher wattage ones! Watch Terry's video on a fine Fender amp capacitor replacement: "How to repair Fender Deluxe tube guitar amp Filter capacitor Buzz " It's from May 28,2017. You may need a copy of the parts list and schematic for sure here. It's available , so do a Google search. If not handy electronics wise just dump it on someone who repairs stuff like Ebay ! Probably not Terry, too busy now!
I have seen the 6v6 take some awful abuse. not a good thing to do to it. since the amp runs class A it may be a good thing to put an appropriate resistor in series with the power trans primary so everything runs at the appropriate voltage.
first!!!! thx terry. your videos help in this dark time im having...hope you have a great day. still looking with the police for all my equipment that was stolen 25k worth :(
@@Retro.Studio i have some. 2020 sucked. not only did i come home on the 16th of nov. to all my stuff being stolen but 3 months before on Aug 28th my son and I lost my wife of 25yrs. So being 48 a single father and on disability. 2020 has taken almost everything from me and my family :(
@@Retro.Studio Thx very much. with everything going on and so far nothing has turned up in pawn shops around here and its almost been 90days my friend told me to think about a go fund me since it took 30 years b4 and 1 day for it to be taken. but thank you . hope you have a great day.
Whenever a new video pops up in my feed I always go grab either a cup of coffee or a cold one and then get the schematic in another tab so I can ''play along at home'' 😊🥼🔈🔉🔊
That's a darn good idea.
Thanks Zed, I enjoy kind comments. Thanks for your support
Thanks Terry. One tip about matching the original wiring when installing a new socket - your iPhone/Android can be your best friend. Take a reference photo of the wiring before you de-solder the original socket. That plus the schematic is a belt and suspenders approach for replacing the socket. I started doing this years ago when doing auto and appliance repairs. Saves me time and improves my odds of getting it right before I power up. :-)
I like the new camera angle, and the tube guy
Great video, as usual. By the way. I fixed my Carvin Vintage 16 that had the dead reverb that I wrote to you about. You suggested a new tank. It took some doing because Accutronics are Korean made now, not here by Chicago anymore. I had to get it out of a warehouse in Germany of all places. Plugged it in and Presto! Reverb City!!. Thanks for the great advice. Love the channel.
Camera angle was great. Your verbal instructions and descriptions are just as valuable as the video. I can't tell you how much I've learned about amps from watching this channel.
A slow steady stream of osmosis.
Cool deal man, I will do my best to keep good content
Tech Tip:
Any unused sections of a can capacitor should have their terminal shorted to ground. This prevents that unused section from building a charge over time, and that charge would not self discharge.
Good call.
Sounds plausible, sure wouldn't hurt to be on the safe side.
Maybe a resistor to ground would be good, bleed off any charge if the cap shorted internally between sections it wouldn't be a dead short to ground. I'm not sure how common it is for a short between sections to occur.
@Israel Bettle Are you actually telling someone you hacked your girlfriend's account and are telling someone else how to do it? Why? Would you like it if someone hacked yours? Or are you a 'bot that just answered yourself as "Huxley Victor", saying you'd try it out but giving an update without editing your comment?
Hope your doing well Terry. Been watching you for years now and love your content and the knowledge you give to the community. Another great video and repair as always. :)
I have the same amp. Thanks Terry! Love the champ vids and congrats on the new partnership! Well deserved!
Be good to see more in depth 2:56 - To have more detail of why you plugged in the test leads where you did when checking transformers were ok - Thanks
Nice fix Terry...Love to see the old ones still making noise..🎸😀
Nice job Terry..... A Champ restore the Champ !!!! Cool intro !!!!
The view is great Terry!
Terry, we love all your amazing educational videos!!!
Those blue caps are not so bad, as long as they are not leaky. Think of all the great sounding Silver Face amps. I doubt any of the bands we all grew up with changed out the caps in their brand new amps. Haha , thanks for the video. Best from Australia
At 10:10 in the video, when you cleaned the new cap solder connections, I did happen to notice that all the original chassis connections have flux residue..
in 1080p, Nice
I think the bias res. Should be atleast
8 to 900 ohms 44 ma
Will shorten the 6v6 length of. Time 35
Ma cathode current is
HOT nun the less Terry
You do very fine good
Work
I like you your also
Goofy ha ha. Fine
Business ol man
KC4ITU
Thanks for another great video Terry. I had a similar "cooking" Champ last week. I replaced the rectifier with a 5Y3 to bring it down to a level more appropriate for a 6V6. Much happier B+ and current. Looking forward to your streaming. Please keep it Aussie time-zone friendly :-)
What did you do with the death cap? I've gotten in the habit of installing X1/Y2 safety caps in everything now.
Good Question, I'd like to know as Well
I dont miss a single show subscribed
So fara, any time I've seen burning from arcing like that, it's been from an internal short in the tube, or from arcing from cold solder on the wire on a pin.
I've also seen a cockroach bridge itself between pins and get good and fried leaving a stinky mess behind as well,.... yuck.
It also could be caused by movement of loose terminals underneath the socket intermittently touching each other, or at least close enough for a few hundred volts to jump. I agree, and would tap on that tube to be certain that there is no intermittent shorts within the tube. Especially when everything is "nice and hot" inside with a heavy load.
A dead mouse will work too. ;-)
Terry, I had a strange thought (though that's nothing new for me). You didn't have anyone handy to play the guitar there at the end, but how about a separate audio stream over the Internet from the owner's guitar to the amp input at D-Lab? You could actually have the customer test the amp in real time. I can think of a few possible ways to do it.
Just a thought, would be neat to try it, but it might be more trouble than it's worth.
Oh, and thanks for this video and all the rest of them. 👍☺👍
Saved for later, can't wait!
great sounding guitar!!!
Once more, success! Looking good. Thanks.
Terry, great video but I have a question: I’m getting a couple of people (that I like) that are begging me to work on their amps after having bad experiences with other shops. I have no problems with the technical side (maybe lacking in some of the lore and component-sourcing) but really have no idea what to charge. One of these is an SVT monster that needs sockets as well as the usual. I’m not looking forward to all this hand work and due to the extensive nature, they know the have to compensate me. I see a lot of repair videos but not on charging and the money side.
If you could give me a little guidance, I’d sure appreciate it! Thanks & 73… 😊
I've got a vintage princeton reverb that's basically a time machine unit, someone bought it yesterday, left it on my front porch.. iots got the brand new stock RCA fenners... its MINT 10++..
the only thing is the power tubes are loose, and they pull out so easily, being upside down they made me nervous so I carefully installed spring retainers you mount at the socket screws.. used rubber bands as to not scratch the screws, what I am looking for is a male to female socket that has extra large male prongs that will snug into those loose fenner sockets real tight then I can plug a tube into that.. no retainers or maybe keep the spring top clamp style on there..
the condition of this I don't even want to tamper with a screw much less heat a solder joint, obviously I need a good solid valve connection so need a good no tamper solution? maybe there are power tubes that have extra large diameter pins? the 6V6 power tubes have a coin base with flimsy thin pins? just seems sketchy to me..
Love your repair vids! Sure wish you offered a repair tech course via Patriot or similar.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Nice amp holding fixture also!
That's a simple tube socket to replace. I'm currently looking at a Philco radio with a bad socket. It's dense with wiring, resistors, & capacitor connections. Simply desoldering is going to be a nightmare. I'll be replacing all components attached to facilitate replacement. Simply cut off attached parts.
Nice clean overhaul.
What is the value of the big blue cap? Mine is rubbed off and all I can make out is the 600volt.
I have a general question for All Bench Tech's out there. How much do you charge for repair work? Do you charge by the hour? Do you have a minimum charge? It has been suggested to me that I am not charging what I should. I looked online and see a bench Tech should make a minimum of $15 per hour.
I would really appreciate some advice.
Nice Terry, could be overflow of contact spray and used too soon? 😃
What wattage soldering iron do you use? Reason I ask is: soldering or unsoldering directly on the chassis is always a challenge for me; due to the dissipation of heat on the large surface area.
I wish I was this smart.
Always love these videos, particularly with Champs. Can anyone comment on the choice to use two 40s on the can cap? I've heard of one bumped to 40 from 20, but not two? Obviously, just extra filtering, but original spec is usually 20 on all, or later schematics 40 in one stage, but not two.
Important thing to remember is what the rectifier tube specs call for.
Cute to tube-a-mason
Terry, will you still be repairing amateur radios equipment when you get involved with the guitar amp company?
Maybe I am missing something here, but isn't the max plate voltage for a 6V6 tube 350V?
So if your line voltage is over 120 volts A/C, what is that doing to the heater voltage on your 12ax7 and 6v6 tubes? Won't that make it too high as well Ter?
What kind of soldering iron do you use when you are soldering to the chassis? I bought a 100 Watt iron that is supposed to get up to 1000 degrees but the solder just beads up when I try to use it.
Your little tube man sounds like TH-camr Just Some Bigfoot with Internet Access !😄
When did Fender stop using the brass grounding plate?
I know you were using a speaker cabinet at the end of the video, but I just couldn't see it...
I always enjoy your videos, thanks. A question; is it common to find that the cathode bias resistor called for in the schematic is actually wrong and allows it to run too hot? I'm just finishing a rebuild of a Hallicrafters S-76 and found that the bias resistor on the 6K6 output tube, 390 ohms, allowed about 46ma of plate current or 171% of max. I replaced it with a 680 ohm resistor and now have about 26ma plate current. I'm just wondering if this a common thing to find that it had been biased hot from the factory? It makes me feel a bit weird to ignore what's on the schematic.
Schematics were designed to work from the lower power supply voltage ( 110VAC) in the past compared to today's (125VAC).
So it would prudent to lower the current to the specs level so you don't overdrive your tube! Following vintage schematics is OK but you have to think
what about what is really going on in today"s world and make the appropriate adjustments.
@@hestheMaster I also calculated the current using the voltages they list on the schematic, (mine are little higher) and it would still be running very hot. It's like they didn't mind. Also, this radio is rated up to 125VAC. I'm curious what their thinking was or if this is common on communications rigs. It's not very loud...I've been thinking of subbing a 6v6 for the 6K6 and going back to the 390 ohm cathode resistor.
@@TheDevice9 Sounds like you need to visit Antique Radios Forums. There are a lot of posts on this receiver as well as some mods to make it sound better. What you purpose sounds reasonable BTW
I'm going to build a 5F2A Princeton amp from Mojo, I don't think I want my 6v6 passing 44 mA at 429 vac rms (I'm assuming that is plate volts you are measuring), and 18.5 watts. I've got a 1k Ohm 5 watt and a 750 Ohm 5 watt to choose from in the bias circuit. I get up to 122 vac rms at my house at off peak hours.
Hi. Yes, the 1K is a better choice
Those Fender style sockets are not hard to get. Mojotone and Tube Depot sells them.
Getting NOS micanol brown Fender sockets would be something entirely different. I’d buy everyone out!
I have two of those sockets that I've been saving to build something nice for myself. For some reason that pattern in the brown always reminds me of a bowling ball ? :O)
As nice as it is to use original type sockets, I replace everything with Belton micalex now. The quality and characteristics of micalex are just too good to ignore.
I've got a Bassman Ten of this vintage in my office here and when I just plugged it in for the first time in like 10 years (long story) it did the old loud feedback hum which I later figured out was called redplating after about a minute of playing. I reached back there to shut if off before it melted down and there was so much heat I pulled my hand away. Before I could unplug it from the wall the fuse took care of shutting her down. Pulled it apart and I found that both power amp tube sockets are toasty like the ones in the video (loose pins and signs of arcing) and the one was bad enough that one of the soldered terminals had partially melted.
My question for you is, would it be worth just soldering in new sockets (would that likely semi-permanently fix it)? If that's a no go, can you quote me what it would cost to have it gone through like you do in the video here? It's a bit of a family heirloom at this point, so I'm looking to get it back up and running, and I definitely don't want to do more damage to it.
I'm looking at it some more and it looks like the input lines that go into the transformer might have joined the party with the arcing. It looks like the hot lead going from the power switch to the transformer may have been arcing across two of the terminals there. I'd be really stoked if that's all that was wrong with it. A couple wire splices and a new socket might fix it right up.
Oh man I think I got lucky here. I don't even think the sockets are damaged other than the metal at the very tip of those two terminals that arced across the hot lead. I might re-wet the solder but otherwise those sockets look fine. I'm going to try re-splicing those leads and see if that fixes it. Looks like a simple case of wire chafing on the input power.
Another quality D-Lab refurb. The lack of proper background introduction for the Snauzeramous is cause for concern... ;^)
Yes Sir, Very limited on time today, sorry
What is that, like a 75 watt jobber? Heard him mention it before.
I have -two- three questions, Terry:
1) How do _you_ spell Snozzeramus / Snauzeramous / ??? 😉
2) Do you prefer using a heavy-duty iron over a soldering gun? And if so, why? Just curious.
3) Are you ever going to make a compilation video of clips, every time you said or used Snozzeramus? ( Only half joking, I'd enjoy watching that; as busy as you are, get your son to do it! )
As always, Terry, thanks for sharing your experience with us.
How do I go about getting a silver faced control panel repaired?
The actual panel or the entire amp?
I just got copywrong nailed for a little Beatles in the background for a bit. I hope it''s allowed for fair use. Copyright is the tight to sue, so YT should not be so freaky about it, nobody Sue's unless losses are worth it.
TH-cam has gone way too far with not allowing fair use of snips of any music content. Radio repair guys are getting their vids pulled down or flagged just for radio dial tuning through stations. Totally stupid, like someone is going to make a copy of a crappy microphone recording that is 15 seconds long and play it over and over. Boy have we gone way to far with this stuff, remember Napster? But this is not that.
@7:44 "... is that my mother on the phone?"
I adopted an POS solid state Fender M-80 rack mount head. I was forced to take it with the 2 cabs that I bought. It's in rough shape, but works, for the most part So, I got it cleaned up and relabled (front panel is missing).
It makes an intermittent "buzzing" sound when powered on, towards the rear of the chassis.
*NOT* a hum or "noise" that is typical from high(ish in this case) gain amps.
This *literally* sounds like an active hornet's nest.
If it helps it sounds like it is coming from the rear, right hand side of the chassis.
Any suggestions?
I know I should just throw it out but there is something about this turd that seems worth polishing.
Like OJ, let's take a stab at it!
Just a guess but 50 year old electrolytic capacitors may be to blame. . You really want to replace all the electrolytic capacitors in the power supply section
with slightly higher voltage ratings. If its 100 volts got to 160 volts, 100 volts go to 120 volts etc. Anything higher it is OK to leave as same but I doubt there are
higher voltage rated capacitors in it. You need to check resistors too. Some go open!
Often you may see burn marks on the PC board for the higher wattage ones! Watch Terry's video on a fine Fender amp capacitor replacement:
"How to repair Fender Deluxe tube guitar amp Filter capacitor Buzz " It's from May 28,2017.
You may need a copy of the parts list and schematic for sure here. It's available , so do a Google search.
If not handy electronics wise just dump it on someone who repairs stuff like Ebay ! Probably not Terry, too busy now!
@@hestheMaster that's such AWESOME advice my friend! Thank you very, very much!!
There's a fungus among us!
I have seen the 6v6 take some awful abuse. not a good thing to do to it. since the amp runs class A it may be a good thing to put an appropriate resistor in series with the power trans primary so everything runs at the appropriate voltage.
My question is why not install a pot to set bias??
bigger the glob better the job
first!!!! thx terry. your videos help in this dark time im having...hope you have a great day. still looking with the police for all my equipment that was stolen 25k worth :(
Serious bro? Hang them high! do you have serials of your equipment?
@@Retro.Studio i have some. 2020 sucked. not only did i come home on the 16th of nov. to all my stuff being stolen but 3 months before on Aug 28th my son and I lost my wife of 25yrs. So being 48 a single father and on disability. 2020 has taken almost everything from me and my family :(
@@kenhancock8931 dgeee i’m so sorry for your loss. Speechless sorry for that
@@Retro.Studio Thx very much. with everything going on and so far nothing has turned up in pawn shops around here and its almost been 90days my friend told me to think about a go fund me since it took 30 years b4 and 1 day for it to be taken. but thank you . hope you have a great day.
@@kenhancock8931 use Ebay and Reverd and add some special keywords of your equipment maybe it pop ups sometime.. take care my friend
If you are working on my amp I don't want you talking on the phone.concentrate on the repair.
I bet that arcing happened because someone sprayed WD40 in there.
Maybe a bug got zapped
@@d-labelectronics Ahh yes could be spider or box bug, but usually there is a carcass.