You said there was a ware shim in the rear main seal. I do not believe the white ring is a wear shim. It should be removed pushed out as the seal in pushed over the main journal
I noticed at 11:04 you installed the rods/pistons the wrong way. Just as I did my self! I’m actually rebuilding my 5.9 Cummins for the first time. And this confused me lol If you watch your previous video when you took it apart you can see how the rod caps are facing, I saw you ran into a blow by issue after the rebuild, when I saw you reinstall the pistons the second time they went in the right way lol luckily I caught mine I wasn’t sure until I researched it my self. Things happen. First timer for me on my rebuild process. Thanks for the video it helped me out regardless! Glad yours turned out good.
Dang, you've got a good eye! You're correct, when I originally put it together I put them in the way they came out, not realizing some yahoo had been in there already and installed them backwards 🙄. Got it figured out though in the end 👍
I just subscribed. I watched your no nonsense videos about the Hemi tick, your a humble guy. You don't try to come on as a know-it-all like our favorite UNCLE, we know who that is. Your very thorough in your explanations and you mentioned something about interest in the white board, personally I like that, especially when combined with a knowledgeable teacher like yourself. Keep on truck'n brother, you have great content. Semper Fi, USMC.
I love the way you are doing this. Your an excelent teacher. Proving that things are in right is exactly how I roll. Great video man!! I didnt want to rebuild my 5.9 until I watched this. Now Im going to do it.
Done my share of 855 Cummins engines over the years, wet liners are a bit easier to just drop in the block(PITA to pull out sometimes though!) Great video!
Also I dont think there is such a thing as injection pump timing on a common rail because the pump simply keep massive pressure in the system and the injectors are controlled by the ECU. Enjoying the video series!
When it co.es to gasket adhesive i am a firm believer in Mr Gasket spray gasket maker or the old school indian head shelac. Both work great and help assure a leak free bond
The connecting rod comparison made the video really cool... the throws on a 5.9 Diesel are massive. You should post the weight difference from a built 5.9L Cummins vs. 5.7L Hemi. Google is saying 500 lbs for the Hemi and 1150 lbs for a 5.9L depending on the year... More than double the weight. The Cummins Diesels are definitely better suited for on the asphalt towing and hauling duty and not baja off-road stuff. Obviously not even Chrysler took that difference serious enough where their front ends have struggled to handle the weight of the Cummins w/o constantly having issues.
You're right about that Scott! In 2010 the Ram trucks beefed up their frame and that helped, then in 2014 they beefed it up a LOT, much better now. Those numbers sound correct on the weight of the engines. All I know is, I'm terrified when I've got a cummins on my engine hoist! 😂
@@ReignitedAuto When you shut the engine off, (In cold weather in particular)... I wonder if the oil suction sump line stays completely full of oil and doesn't drain down under gravity due to the tight clearances in the oil pump? (Thus maintaining it's prime... like a siphon hose you put your thumb over). (i.e. It doesn't let the oil sump suction tube fill with air... because none is available and the strainer is submerged in oil too). There could be check valves on the discharge side of the oil pump too for all I know. On the surface, it seems like a high risk that your pump could lose its prime being that long... and say the weather is really cold and the oil is viscous? Quite amazing that the vacuum created by the gear pump can suck up cold oil in the pan that far. Obviously they have it figured out.... because it all works reliably. At the end of the day... there is a lot of engineering trivia most of us haven't even scratched the surface of. I did some work on a Mitsubishi 4 cylinder once and sprayed some cleaning solvent into the oil pump when cleaning out the bottom end of the engine. In that case it did lose it's prime and wouldn't re-prime until I dropped the oil pan again and manually saturated the gears in the pump with oil . I know from that the oil film and seal it creates are critical for the pump to build pressure correctly and quickly especially when the engine is cold. I suppose that goes along with the people that put petroleum jelly or grease in it if they change the pump. You'd lose that prime when you change your oil... so the suction must be powerful.
Great videos, just a thought for maybe a future one. Could you enlighten us on what aftermarket modifications effect the warranty. Just went over 1k miles on my 2020 RAM 1500 and like the exhaust modifications you completed. If a no can do, no worries still like your videos.
Exhaust mods IMO if its just lets say a muffler resonator ect, nothing emmisions or even a pair of headers might scare them, but simple things shouldn't void anything. Not affecing how the car runs and would not void warranty. Any tunes ect for sure could easily void it.
@ReignitedAuto Hey man so a mechanic friend of mine told me to set the cylinder heads in the freezer overnight or just into dry ice and the metal will contract enough that the piston will just slip in to the bore with no effort. Have you heard of this before?
When I inspected them they still had good factory cross-hatch present, so I didn't. Now after the engine is together I'm regretting that decision. Definitely should have ran my hone through a few times just to rough them up a bit so the new rings would seat better. 👍
Hello, not sure if you respond to comments or not. Just found you tonight and you're a cool fellow bald guy! I'm wondering why you didn't clean the engine? Like as in power wash it or something? I've looking to rebuild my first engine so maybe that is something I'm not supposed to do. Anyway, cool shop and nice videos :)
Cummins part numbers are a nightmare. I ended up using mostly aftermarket parts for this rebuild. For the crankshaft I purchased a used crank from Ebay. The crankshaft part numbers are all over the place, but from my research they are largely the same physically, the different part numbers just reference what type of vehicle they came out of.
I actually got mine used from Ebay. It's a tricky proposition because there are so many factory part numbers and it's tough to know which ones interchange. From my research it seems most of the crankshafts are identical, and the varying part numbers generally reference what type of vehicle they came from (manual or automatic/ crew cab or mega cab/ 2wd or 4wd.... ect) I took a bit of a gamble with the one that I chose because it wasn't the exact same part number as the one that came out of the truck, but physically it's identical. 👍
i have a chrysler 300c same as you i cant get it to start after putting head gasket on....i need your advice..o i deleted the mds 4 plugs out and put the white plastic plugs in. put back together and now wont start. turn over but no start. help...
check fuel delivery, check spark. check all of your fuses. make sure your crank/cam sensors are plugged in. I would spray a quick shot of starting fluid into the intake.. if it fires, you got a fuel delivery issue.. check your crank and cam sensors again.. are you getting any activity on your tach when it cranks? no. Check your cam and crank sensors and make sure they are plugged in.. and last but not least.. have you tried unplugging and plugging it back in?!?
oh yeah!! a lot of times you can plug into the wrong circuit to a sensor because some sensors use the same plug configuration on the harness. I've seen it happen.
Ok i will check all connections. I have to ground a wire on the back of the head on drivers side! Would that have anything to do with it? Thanks ken i will do what you say to double check everything!
@@kenrobinson1099 Ok i will check all connections. I have to ground a wire on the back of the head on drivers side! Would that have anything to do with it? Thanks ken i will do what you say to double check everything!
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I just love Diesel engines, espeically Cummins. I'm late to this party....So Far extremely Enjoyable
You said there was a ware shim in the rear main seal. I do not believe the white ring is a wear shim. It should be removed pushed out as the seal in pushed over the main journal
Thanks for this series Sky. It is good to be shown a diesel rebuild this way. Leaning a lot!
Thanks Tom, I can still make little mistakes here or there, but overall you can see what's involved 👍
@@ReignitedAuto that's true but it's good to see that even someone at your skill level can make a mistake. It gives the rest of us hope!
Really great video on this rebuild. BTW, the rear main seal support housing is 89-inch pounds of torque.
I noticed at 11:04 you installed the rods/pistons the wrong way. Just as I did my self! I’m actually rebuilding my 5.9 Cummins for the first time. And this confused me lol If you watch your previous video when you took it apart you can see how the rod caps are facing, I saw you ran into a blow by issue after the rebuild, when I saw you reinstall the pistons the second time they went in the right way lol luckily I caught mine I wasn’t sure until I researched it my self. Things happen. First timer for me on my rebuild process. Thanks for the video it helped me out regardless! Glad yours turned out good.
Dang, you've got a good eye! You're correct, when I originally put it together I put them in the way they came out, not realizing some yahoo had been in there already and installed them backwards 🙄. Got it figured out though in the end 👍
You should have way more videos and vids like your teaching people how to rebuild motors the right way
Thank for the kind words, and thank you for watching! 👍
I just subscribed. I watched your no nonsense videos about the Hemi tick, your a humble guy. You don't try to come on as a know-it-all like our favorite UNCLE, we know who that is. Your very thorough in your explanations and you mentioned something about interest in the white board, personally I like that, especially when combined with a knowledgeable teacher like yourself. Keep on truck'n brother, you have great content. Semper Fi, USMC.
Thanks for the kind words, and I definitely appreciate you watching and subscribing! 👍
even new bearing very ion size oil clearances must be checked
I love the way you are doing this. Your an excelent teacher. Proving that things are in right is exactly how I roll. Great video man!! I didnt want to rebuild my 5.9 until I watched this. Now Im going to do it.
Those internals are massive!
It's pretty amazing to look at, especially since I just did that Ford 6.7 and it wasn't near as beefy as this thing!
Nice work Sky, making it look easy 👍
Thanks brother!
That work table was groaning with that block on it and taping on that wrist pin ! Lol!
You're not wrong 😄I've been very impressed with this work table!
I just found your channel and probably have watched about 3 hours today's. Very nice. Looking forward to watching the others
Thank you for the kind words Michael, and I appreciate you watching!
Done my share of 855 Cummins engines over the years, wet liners are a bit easier to just drop in the block(PITA to pull out sometimes though!)
Great video!
Thanks Mark!
Honestly the scariest thing for me when it comes to separating the head from the block is timing. So glad the 5.9s are gear driven
Thank you for the great info! Awesome video
Also I dont think there is such a thing as injection pump timing on a common rail because the pump simply keep massive pressure in the system and the injectors are controlled by the ECU.
Enjoying the video series!
When it co.es to gasket adhesive i am a firm believer in Mr Gasket spray gasket maker or the old school indian head shelac. Both work great and help assure a leak free bond
Yess!! Finally!!!
different than hemi!! great video!
Thanks for watching Walter! 👍
As always good job sir
Thanks Carl, always appreciate you watching 👍
Great video thanks for the the informative info.
The connecting rod comparison made the video really cool... the throws on a 5.9 Diesel are massive. You should post the weight difference from a built 5.9L Cummins vs. 5.7L Hemi. Google is saying 500 lbs for the Hemi and 1150 lbs for a 5.9L depending on the year... More than double the weight. The Cummins Diesels are definitely better suited for on the asphalt towing and hauling duty and not baja off-road stuff. Obviously not even Chrysler took that difference serious enough where their front ends have struggled to handle the weight of the Cummins w/o constantly having issues.
You're right about that Scott! In 2010 the Ram trucks beefed up their frame and that helped, then in 2014 they beefed it up a LOT, much better now. Those numbers sound correct on the weight of the engines. All I know is, I'm terrified when I've got a cummins on my engine hoist! 😂
@@ReignitedAuto When you shut the engine off, (In cold weather in particular)... I wonder if the oil suction sump line stays completely full of oil and doesn't drain down under gravity due to the tight clearances in the oil pump? (Thus maintaining it's prime... like a siphon hose you put your thumb over). (i.e. It doesn't let the oil sump suction tube fill with air... because none is available and the strainer is submerged in oil too). There could be check valves on the discharge side of the oil pump too for all I know. On the surface, it seems like a high risk that your pump could lose its prime being that long... and say the weather is really cold and the oil is viscous? Quite amazing that the vacuum created by the gear pump can suck up cold oil in the pan that far. Obviously they have it figured out.... because it all works reliably. At the end of the day... there is a lot of engineering trivia most of us haven't even scratched the surface of. I did some work on a Mitsubishi 4 cylinder once and sprayed some cleaning solvent into the oil pump when cleaning out the bottom end of the engine. In that case it did lose it's prime and wouldn't re-prime until I dropped the oil pan again and manually saturated the gears in the pump with oil . I know from that the oil film and seal it creates are critical for the pump to build pressure correctly and quickly especially when the engine is cold. I suppose that goes along with the people that put petroleum jelly or grease in it if they change the pump. You'd lose that prime when you change your oil... so the suction must be powerful.
Good video
Good job
Keep it up!!!!!!!!
nice job. any concern about the ring gap? Or same concept as bearing clearance? You should see the piston/rod setup on a Fairbanks Morse 38-8-1/8!!
Jeff keep watching the videos in this series to see the results of not checking the ring gap 😄
I wonder if the plastic in the oil pan was a piece of the ring from the rear main that is supposed to be removed after the seal is installed.....??
Great video
Thanks for watching!
Nice!! Great work... :-)
Great videos, just a thought for maybe a future one. Could you enlighten us on what aftermarket modifications effect the warranty. Just went over 1k miles on my 2020 RAM 1500 and like the exhaust modifications you completed. If a no can do, no worries still like your videos.
I actually am planning a video that talks about that, should be out in a few weeks 👍
Exhaust mods IMO if its just lets say a muffler resonator ect, nothing emmisions or even a pair of headers might scare them, but simple things shouldn't void anything. Not affecing how the car runs and would not void warranty. Any tunes ect for sure could easily void it.
Can you post link where you got all the parts for the whole entire rebuild
The thrust bearing goes in #7
Mine is on #6
So I found small chunks of non magnetic metal in my oil pan . Engine runs great what could it be from and what do you think I should do
@ReignitedAuto
Hey man so a mechanic friend of mine told me to set the cylinder heads in the freezer overnight or just into dry ice and the metal will contract enough that the piston will just slip in to the bore with no effort. Have you heard of this before?
Did you bother to hone those cylinder walls? they look completely glazed over.
When I inspected them they still had good factory cross-hatch present, so I didn't. Now after the engine is together I'm regretting that decision. Definitely should have ran my hone through a few times just to rough them up a bit so the new rings would seat better. 👍
Why did u place the rods in the long side to exhaust vs intake?
Hey did you put in rod bolts or reused it
I Need First Two
Hello, not sure if you respond to comments or not. Just found you tonight and you're a cool fellow bald guy! I'm wondering why you didn't clean the engine? Like as in power wash it or something? I've looking to rebuild my first engine so maybe that is something I'm not supposed to do. Anyway, cool shop and nice videos :)
Your videos are horrible because they make me think I can rebuild an engine too in my garage. Hahaha! Love the content mate!
It's definitely not rocket science, you can do it! 👍
do you have links to parts? I am in the process of rebuilding mine and having trouble locating stock parts! THANK YOU
Cummins part numbers are a nightmare. I ended up using mostly aftermarket parts for this rebuild. For the crankshaft I purchased a used crank from Ebay. The crankshaft part numbers are all over the place, but from my research they are largely the same physically, the different part numbers just reference what type of vehicle they came out of.
Where did you get your new crankshaft from. Do you have OME# I'm looking for a crank for my isb 5.9 Ho
I actually got mine used from Ebay. It's a tricky proposition because there are so many factory part numbers and it's tough to know which ones interchange. From my research it seems most of the crankshafts are identical, and the varying part numbers generally reference what type of vehicle they came from (manual or automatic/ crew cab or mega cab/ 2wd or 4wd.... ect) I took a bit of a gamble with the one that I chose because it wasn't the exact same part number as the one that came out of the truck, but physically it's identical. 👍
@@ReignitedAuto thanks you for replying sir this helps me alot I have a better understanding of why my part numbers are all over the place.
i have a chrysler 300c same as you i cant get it to start after putting head gasket on....i need your advice..o i deleted the mds 4 plugs out and put the white plastic plugs in. put back together and now wont start. turn over but no start. help...
check fuel delivery, check spark. check all of your fuses. make sure your crank/cam sensors are plugged in. I would spray a quick shot of starting fluid into the intake.. if it fires, you got a fuel delivery issue.. check your crank and cam sensors again.. are you getting any activity on your tach when it cranks? no. Check your cam and crank sensors and make sure they are plugged in.. and last but not least.. have you tried unplugging and plugging it back in?!?
oh yeah!! a lot of times you can plug into the wrong circuit to a sensor because some sensors use the same plug configuration on the harness. I've seen it happen.
Ok i will check all connections. I have to ground a wire on the back of the head on drivers side! Would that have anything to do with it? Thanks ken i will do what you say to double check everything!
@@kenrobinson1099 Ok i will check all connections. I have to ground a wire on the back of the head on drivers side! Would that have anything to do with it? Thanks ken i will do what you say to double check everything!
that ground is there for a purpose. it needs to be connected. grounds are crucial for all of the electronics to work correctly.
You didn't even hone the cylinders