Solid video. I've done front suspension on 4 different 9th gens (coilovers and aftermarket spring installs) and this was a clear cut and concise video on how to do it. Getting the LCA bolt holes to line up with the holes in the subframe and getting the bolts through is the single handedly hardest part of this job. Some people undo the lower ball joint from the control arm and press out the axle instead of removing the LCA as an alternative. For those who might use this for reference, there are also 3 bolts under the car for the front connection of the LCA that when undone, can give even more room for the strut to wriggle out. And if the endlinks are just too rusty to remove with the allen key method, you can put a vice grip on the back of the tie rod (behind the mounting tab on the strut), and use to hold the end link while you undo the bolt
Just did this yesterday, all four corners. Rears were easy. Using this method, just beware of pulling your CV joints out a little when hammering down on the hub and wriggling out your strut. I found the "bear hug" you mentioned was necessary because the CV joint popped out a little, but i was able to get it back in. If you see a CV joint boot which looks like it is "stretching", you probably pulled it out and need to hug it back in. If I had it to do over again, I'd just unstake the axle nut, remove the nut, and let the axle slide more freely. Other than that, great vid. I also used FCS, came fully assembled and are a direct replacement...no adjustments needed. Thanks again!
Very informative and helpful video, thank you! One note from when I did it, the speed sensor does not have to be taken out, just remove it from the three brackets and it has plenty of slack.
I must not have been a strong enough bear to pull the lower control arm in to put in the two bolts. So, I put a come-along on the control arm and hooked the other end to the other control arm on the other side of the car and cranked the arm in place. Still had to fight it a little to get the bolts to align but I was able to do that with a pry bar and big screw driver.
Great video! About to do mine later this week once parts deliver. Question, What torque specs do I crank everything to? Such as the lower control arm bolts, sway bar links, etc, or did you just throw some threadlocker down and zip it on? My peace of mind comes from going off torque spec but I'm having trouble finding them online. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
Sorry for late reply. , I buzzed them on but also used a breaker bar on it, I would suggest 85 -100 ft lbs. but I always go tighter since I’m paranoid lol
I have 115k on my 2013 accord. I'm starting to get a slight dull thud noise at cruising/freeway speeds from the right front suspension over small bumps. I checked the sway bar links and upper strut mount, they're tight. Starting to think the struts are going bad but no signs of leakage. How many miles were on your Accord when you replaced your struts?
Great video. I used your video as a guide on 2014 accord. For someone trying to do this in their garage, without a lift, your video is the only one that shows a workable install. My only small improvement to your technique is that it's unnecessary to remove the lower bolt from the tire rod end. Once your steps have been gone through, there's a blond "C" hair of needed room to actually remove and replace the new strut, but there is enough room.
Im glad it helped a little, I’ll take a look at that next time I do another accord. I pretty much do all my little jobs in a garage or driveway since I don’t own a show yet
200 Doritos later! I just saw this video and I like it. But question I have a 2013 accord ex what’s the brand on the shocks you got or did you get the original from dealer. also since you installed them have you had any issues with it ?
No problems at all. But I suggest to change the control arms and others parts as well. The brand I used was FCS from rockauto.com They have a front end suspension kit. I’m going to change all that soon. I wish I did it when I changed the struts.
I’m having the hardest time for those two bolts for the LCA to catch. The holes look center but since there is about 5mm of smooth surface on the bolt before the threads start, it’s tough lol unfortunately I feel I’ve cross threaded one hole. Did you just muscle it in or how can I get them to thread up?
Had to keep moving positions to get it to line up. Another way you can do it is drop the whole control arm, Also use your jack to lift up on it as well
@@luckycarguy I was able to get them in after some time. I dropped 2 of the LCA bolts underneath the subframe and loosened one (outer bolt). Then like you said maneuvering the jack and putting your body into it all while using a pry bar for additional leverage to align the holes Your video helped out a lot and those two bolts were definitely a struggle. Thanks for replying
What brand do you recommend would be the best option for a 2013 Honda Accord LX-S coupe that's daily driven ? I live in the countryside of Arkansas and the roads are bumpy as hell and a lot of gravel. Need the perfect struts to survive the roads and give me a smooth ride
I'm trying to get through this. Front left strut is in, but I can't get the lower control arm to swing into the frame so I can reattach it. Doesn't matter how hard I try - it just won't swing in toward the frame
It took me a long time as well. I eventually got it. But I just had a conversation with a co worker who had this problem as well. He told me he took a lot of things off. Meaning the brake caliper and etc. I haven’t Tried his method but he swares it made things much easier. I think it’s because all the weight coming off makes it easier 🤷♂️
I'm having the same problem. Once the all the bolts are off and I lower the control arm, there is not enough room for the strut to clear the knuckle. The control arm is all the way at the bottom and the strut still mounted at the top and I'm still 1 inch off. Could the 2013 model be different in this regards with the 2014 year model? @@luckycarguy
Did you end up getting them in. It can be a pita, you have to position your self , it helped when i lifted both wheels off the ground so I move the hub around.
I think next time I’ll remove more stuff. I did have to muscle out the lower control arm to line up. My way is kinda faster but harder to do. And if your not careful you can mess up the threads on the control arm. But other than that it was ok. Now if you go with aftermarket coil overs it’ll be a piece of cake, in which I wish I did lol.
@luckycarguy can you please tell me the brand and where you got them from . I am trying to get new ones for mine. I was trying to get the OEM but can't get them.
This looks like one of the worse engineered front strut and control arm assy. I have ever seen. I have worked on cars for over 50 years and this setup sucks. Way too many nuts and bolts here.
Solid video. I've done front suspension on 4 different 9th gens (coilovers and aftermarket spring installs) and this was a clear cut and concise video on how to do it. Getting the LCA bolt holes to line up with the holes in the subframe and getting the bolts through is the single handedly hardest part of this job. Some people undo the lower ball joint from the control arm and press out the axle instead of removing the LCA as an alternative.
For those who might use this for reference, there are also 3 bolts under the car for the front connection of the LCA that when undone, can give even more room for the strut to wriggle out. And if the endlinks are just too rusty to remove with the allen key method, you can put a vice grip on the back of the tie rod (behind the mounting tab on the strut), and use to hold the end link while you undo the bolt
Thank you I really appreciate it , that means a lot.
Just did this yesterday, all four corners. Rears were easy. Using this method, just beware of pulling your CV joints out a little when hammering down on the hub and wriggling out your strut. I found the "bear hug" you mentioned was necessary because the CV joint popped out a little, but i was able to get it back in. If you see a CV joint boot which looks like it is "stretching", you probably pulled it out and need to hug it back in.
If I had it to do over again, I'd just unstake the axle nut, remove the nut, and let the axle slide more freely. Other than that, great vid. I also used FCS, came fully assembled and are a direct replacement...no adjustments needed. Thanks again!
Great video. All the other videos related to this have you remove the entire hub which I do not wish to do. I am glad I found a different route.
Thank you. It was challenging to do. If you use aftermarket coil overs it would be super easy
You did a commendable job. Thanks
Thank you 😊
Very informative and helpful video, thank you!
One note from when I did it, the speed sensor does not have to be taken out, just remove it from the three brackets and it has plenty of slack.
Sorry for the ridiculous late reply. Thank you, I get paranoid with sensors lol
I must not have been a strong enough bear to pull the lower control arm in to put in the two bolts. So, I put a come-along on the control arm and hooked the other end to the other control arm on the other side of the car and cranked the arm in place. Still had to fight it a little to get the bolts to align but I was able to do that with a pry bar and big screw driver.
At least you were able to get it. It did take me some time to wrestle with it
Great video! About to do mine later this week once parts deliver. Question, What torque specs do I crank everything to? Such as the lower control arm bolts, sway bar links, etc, or did you just throw some threadlocker down and zip it on? My peace of mind comes from going off torque spec but I'm having trouble finding them online. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!
Sorry for late reply. , I buzzed them on but also used a breaker bar on it, I would suggest 85 -100 ft lbs. but I always go tighter since I’m paranoid lol
Good job buddy! Quick question , if my car doesn't bounce but dips forward on braking .... would that indicate bad shocks?
I would say yes, they are probably worn.
I have 115k on my 2013 accord. I'm starting to get a slight dull thud noise at cruising/freeway speeds from the right front suspension over small bumps. I checked the sway bar links and upper strut mount, they're tight. Starting to think the struts are going bad but no signs of leakage. How many miles were on your Accord when you replaced your struts?
Did mine at around 128k, I noticed my rear tires had lumps so that told me the rear were bad. So I decided to do all of them.
U need struts
Great video. I used your video as a guide on 2014 accord. For someone trying to do this in their garage, without a lift, your video is the only one that shows a workable install. My only small improvement to your technique is that it's unnecessary to remove the lower bolt from the tire rod end. Once your steps have been gone through, there's a blond "C" hair of needed room to actually remove and replace the new strut, but there is enough room.
Im glad it helped a little, I’ll take a look at that next time I do another accord. I pretty much do all my little jobs in a garage or driveway since I don’t own a show yet
I'm having issues lining up the lower control arm bolts
Me too- can't figure it out
I like “RCH” I’ve never had a “BCH” 😂
@interstategamer sorry for late reply. Idk why TH-cam doesn’t show some comments. Did you ever figure it out???
200 Doritos later! I just saw this video and I like it. But question I have a 2013 accord ex what’s the brand on the shocks you got or did you get the original from dealer. also since you installed them have you had any issues with it ?
No problems at all. But I suggest to change the control arms and others parts as well. The brand I used was FCS from rockauto.com They have a front end suspension kit. I’m going to change all that soon. I wish I did it when I changed the struts.
Did you get the suspension kit they have at rock auto? Do the work good ?
@angelsreview25 no I only got the struts but I should have. I plan to a little later tho
I’m having the hardest time for those two bolts for the LCA to catch. The holes look center but since there is about 5mm of smooth surface on the bolt before the threads start, it’s tough lol unfortunately I feel I’ve cross threaded one hole.
Did you just muscle it in or how can I get them to thread up?
Had to keep moving positions to get it to line up. Another way you can do it is drop the whole control arm, Also use your jack to lift up on it as well
@@luckycarguy I was able to get them in after some time. I dropped 2 of the LCA bolts underneath the subframe and loosened one (outer bolt). Then like you said maneuvering the jack and putting your body into it all while using a pry bar for additional leverage to align the holes
Your video helped out a lot and those two bolts were definitely a struggle. Thanks for replying
Anytime, I’m glad I was able to help. It took me forever to figure a way to get those bolts in.
What brand do you recommend would be the best option for a 2013 Honda Accord LX-S coupe that's daily driven ? I live in the countryside of Arkansas and the roads are bumpy as hell and a lot of gravel. Need the perfect struts to survive the roads and give me a smooth ride
I’m not entirely sure tbh, I’ll have to do some research
Bilstein but those are expensive
@@JohnS-il1drfor Accord they are very very tough
KYB for a slight upgrade or FCS for direct factory setting replacement.
Did you get an alignment right after your installs?
Yes
Hi! What it’s that spray you used before unscrew ? and blue color paste ?
PB Blaster is the yellow top can, the blue paste is breakable loctite
@@luckycarguy thank U
how did you remove the bolt at 1:40 so easily? i’ve exhausted all my strength trying to get it off. should i use an impact gun?
Penetrating fluid and a pry bar.
I used pb blaster since mine was a little rusted. It helped
I'm trying to get through this. Front left strut is in, but I can't get the lower control arm to swing into the frame so I can reattach it. Doesn't matter how hard I try - it just won't swing in toward the frame
Do you have a second jack? Mabe put a jack stand under hub and put the hydraulic jack under control arm and try to lift
I’m curious if you got it?
What I did was I used a ratchet strap to keep it from moving away from the holes then i jacked up the knuckles until the holes lined up.
I almost did that but got away with using my body lol , probably should have used the straps since it would have made it easier
How long did it take you to change ?
A few hours. I would read the comments to see what your getting yourself into. It’s a pita to do
Hey buddy where do you purchase the front struts thank you
I used Rockauto.com, you can choose from a few different brands
@@luckycarguy thank you
? I’m planning on replacing mine.
Take your time when doing it, read the other comments, others ran into trouble and there’s a few things they tried to help get the struts in
Did the whole thing in like 40 minutes but im still stuck on the 2 bolts that hold the lower control arm been trying for about 2 hours now 🤦🏽♂️
Any help?
It took me a long time as well. I eventually got it. But I just had a conversation with a co worker who had this problem as well. He told me he took a lot of things off. Meaning the brake caliper and etc. I haven’t Tried his method but he swares it made things much easier. I think it’s because all the weight coming off makes it easier 🤷♂️
I hope this helps. I did put a warning in the vid that this is a pita to do and it may take a while to get those bolts.
Thankss😂!
Np. We’re you able to get it?
Hi, what brand struts did you use?
FCS Auto
Hi, was there a specific website you purchased FCS Auto suspension? I cannot order from the FCS Auto website.
Rockauto.com. You can choose what brand you want
TY much appreciated
How many miles have the FCS GAVE you? I bought some Monroe’s but they only gave me about 25 k miles.
What brand of struts u used
FCS
Exl model
@@luckycarguy! Thanks
I'm I missing something...I can't get enough clearance to pull the strut out...smh
Hey sorry for the late reply. Did you figure it out? I’m curious to know why you didn’t have enough room for the strut to come out
I'm having the same problem. Once the all the bolts are off and I lower the control arm, there is not enough room for the strut to clear the knuckle. The control arm is all the way at the bottom and the strut still mounted at the top and I'm still 1 inch off. Could the 2013 model be different in this regards with the 2014 year model? @@luckycarguy
Lining up the 2 LCA bolts is kicking my ass right now. SMH.
Did you end up getting them in. It can be a pita, you have to position your self , it helped when i lifted both wheels off the ground so I move the hub around.
I don't understand why in other videos, they disassemble the whole suspension to remove the strut. This video proves all that work is not necessary.
I think next time I’ll remove more stuff. I did have to muscle out the lower control arm to line up. My way is kinda faster but harder to do. And if your not careful you can mess up the threads on the control arm. But other than that it was ok. Now if you go with aftermarket coil overs it’ll be a piece of cake, in which I wish I did lol.
How the aftermarket struts work for you ?
They’re good, haven’t had any issues
@luckycarguy can you please tell me the brand and where you got them from . I am trying to get new ones for mine. I was trying to get the OEM but can't get them.
FCS auto. I ordered them off rockauto.com
@luckycarguy thank you I'll look it up.
These struts go bad pretty quick. Most cars I owned last 175k
These only 90k
Wtf
I wonder why. I might change these to aftermarket coil overs later on if I keep it.
This looks like one of the worse engineered front strut and control arm assy. I have ever seen. I have worked on cars for over 50 years and this setup sucks. Way too many nuts and bolts here.
pretty sure all the new gen cars are going this route unfortunately