The Draglink is the one that goes from the Servo to the Steering Arm. The Panhard Rod is the FOURTH link, and prevents side-to-side movement. *It's not something DIFFERENT, because you don't like the Name!!* And, you're suggesting that someone who may not know what they're doing (much like you), replace the Stock 4mm Links, with WEAKER 3mm Links??? And there's a BIG difference between Red and Blue Loctite!!!! If you want to do this to YOUR Rig, that's your right, and choice. Don't encourage others....
PoorManRC he’s using cheap thread locker so it really doesn’t matter he could have spit on it and it would have had the same effect lmfao. I gotta admit, his blatant stupidity is entertaining.
Omg I made it to the "front steering servo arm thingy..." part and I cringed for so long I had to stop and come look at the comments lolol. Like why would u make a video like an expert on a rig u just bought and souped up and crawled for 5 mins with and tell us u dont know the benefits. That's why I searched this video title. I'm fuxkin triggereddddddorndjnsdjobbrid
@@agoodballet he also said the plastic he was threading into was still new enough not to need thread lock, does cheap thread lock like his also work on plastic? :O
Just ordered an SOA mount for my Gatekeeper and will be going 4-link in the front. The 3-link is OK but I like the flex I should be gaining and getting rid of the panhard is a big plus.
You need a axle mounted servo with a 4 link. The steering link and panhard move on the same radius. Red lock tight is harder to undo than blue and in some cases you may have to use heat with red. the axial ball is wider than a traxxas ball.
good video but the link you keep calling a "drag link" is in reality the "panhard bar" ... the drag link is the long link that connects both front tires together.
Because when you compress the shocks, the linkage from the servo stays the same length, it cannot be shortened so that forces everything toward the side the linkage is mounted to on the steering knuckle.
Bump steer occurs because of the drag link, The only way to fully eliminate that is with IFS, or with hydro steering. I guess for an RC that would mean mounting a servo on the axle
If you gonna convert 4 link you have to relocate the servo on the axle and move the battery plate cause that servo is gonna hit and then you wont have a bump steer it was designed like that for or a reason!
That's not a drag link, that's a panhard bar. Secondly, the front suspension geometry is like that to avoid bump steer, now you are going to get a whole lot of bump steer as the suspension moves.
I love the way average Joe thinks he can better this jeep by altering the physics. Its not an upgraded part he is replacing, he thinks that by doing this the jeep will behave better. I think if that was case then it would come like this out of the box.
Lol doing what your doing is going to cause bump steer the way to eliminate that is to mount the servo on the axle with the servo being on the frame 4 link isn't recommended cause of the bump steer and the links names are what they are you can't name them something else cause you don't like saying it you shouldn't miss inform guys that are new to the hobby its just not right cool you have a 4 link set up with all the bump steer that goes with it I also have a 4 link set up but servo on axle so in short no bump steer thank you for your poorly made and poorly narrated video your definitely not Harley from Harley Designs your making and giving opinions after building ONE rig that's hilarious
Don’t but lock tight I’m the hole it is ignorant to do that because you can thread your grub screw all the way In there always put a little dab on the screw not using red lock tight
Loctite is not good for plastic.. it can cause it to become brittle. I like the intent in the video. This is good for how to add the 4th link but the other stuff is very bad information. I'll still thumb up because the intent here.
sorry this is a silly mod 😂 First thing a 3 link with pan hard is a type of 4 link that eliminates pump steer second normal 4 link with a panhard link does not work and will bind becouse the panhard link fights the motion of the normal 4 link if you remove the panhard link and 4 link the front it will turn when you hit bumps or flex on stuff unless you axle mount the servo to taking away from the scale looks! I would never do this to a scx10.2 the front end works is perfect stock messing with it will only mess it up! 😂
did it to my scx10 blazer noticed smoother flex but the sacrifice of bump steer, more front end movement. i moved the shock angles and softened then up the pan hard rod would hit the diff that's why i went with this setup for now
I'm not concerned that much with scale looks in that aspect that's why I 4 linked my front end with servo on axle I would never 4 link a frame mounted servo cause of bump steer just like this video it's steering guys in the wrong direction doing what he's doing is silly so what he can tell his buddies who all bought their 1st rigs together that he's modifying his so he can be the leader of the misguided pack good luck if you follow his modifications lol
Sorry bro but do a video of it moving up and done on the drag link side ... it turns the steering... gotta have it ... still 4 linked but you still have to have the link bar !!! 53007085148__CDDD2104-E870-4FBF-83B2-EB41B34B0228.JPG
6/8/2020 -Thankyou for the how to ! It has helped out sooo much. 🙂 I would rather have a 4-link over a 3-link w/ panhard anyday. Very well done video, with precise step by step details & your stance on this particular subject is equally important to all of us SCX10 II owners. I hope to see more, thanks again. -Paul
The Draglink is the one that goes from the Servo to the Steering Arm. The Panhard Rod is the FOURTH link, and prevents side-to-side movement.
*It's not something DIFFERENT, because you don't like the Name!!*
And, you're suggesting that someone who may not know what they're doing (much like you), replace the Stock 4mm Links, with WEAKER 3mm Links???
And there's a BIG difference between Red and Blue Loctite!!!!
If you want to do this to YOUR Rig, that's your right, and choice. Don't encourage others....
PoorManRC he’s using cheap thread locker so it really doesn’t matter he could have spit on it and it would have had the same effect lmfao. I gotta admit, his blatant stupidity is entertaining.
Omg I made it to the "front steering servo arm thingy..." part and I cringed for so long I had to stop and come look at the comments lolol. Like why would u make a video like an expert on a rig u just bought and souped up and crawled for 5 mins with and tell us u dont know the benefits. That's why I searched this video title. I'm fuxkin triggereddddddorndjnsdjobbrid
@@agoodballet he also said the plastic he was threading into was still new enough not to need thread lock, does cheap thread lock like his also work on plastic? :O
Please you folks new to crawling don't do this to your SCX10 II. This will cause major bump steer unless you move your servo to the axle.
have fun with all that bump steer
Hahaha 🤣 I just added it and already taking that 4 link off not a upgrade
Just ordered an SOA mount for my Gatekeeper and will be going 4-link in the front. The 3-link is OK but I like the flex I should be gaining and getting rid of the panhard is a big plus.
You need a axle mounted servo with a 4 link. The steering link and panhard move on the same radius. Red lock tight is harder to undo than blue and in some cases you may have to use heat with red. the axial ball is wider than a traxxas ball.
Impressed how.to ruin a 10.2 in less then 30 minutes
Glad you said it. I only drove it for ten minutes and I hate that it's not 4 link
Well it comes 4 linked in the rear ..keep the front as is ...no bump steer ..
And also always start your rod ends by hand to not mess up the new threads u made or the previous ones
good video but the link you keep calling a "drag link" is in reality the "panhard bar" ... the drag link is the long link that connects both front tires together.
Hi quick question, do you have bumpsteer issues with this setup, many ppl on facebook groups say to "good luck" ??? Thanks !!
Removing the panhard link will give u bump steer.
Because when you compress the shocks, the linkage from the servo stays the same length, it cannot be shortened so that forces everything toward the side the linkage is mounted to on the steering knuckle.
Lol, Bump steer Is most definitely not a problem for crawlers going as slow as they do.
Bump steer occurs because of the drag link, The only way to fully eliminate that is with IFS, or with hydro steering. I guess for an RC that would mean mounting a servo on the axle
Jeffrey bump steer is a problem period it doesn't matter how slow your going
If you gonna convert 4 link you have to relocate the servo on the axle and move the battery plate cause that servo is gonna hit and then you wont have a bump steer it was designed like that for or a reason!
That's not a drag link, that's a panhard bar.
Secondly, the front suspension geometry is like that to avoid bump steer, now you are going to get a whole lot of bump steer as the suspension moves.
I got Traxxas trx4 axles on a scx10 with 4 links all round.
It’s a 5 link front end 🤣
That is not a drag link! The drag link is what is attached to the servo that drags your tires from side to side hence the drag link!
I love the way average Joe thinks he can better this jeep by altering the physics. Its not an upgraded part he is replacing, he thinks that by doing this the jeep will behave better. I think if that was case then it would come like this out of the box.
nice what's the the red things on the bottom links
Those are the differential covers
Ever notice that one end of the link screw has an opening for a hex driver?👎
Lol doing what your doing is going to cause bump steer the way to eliminate that is to mount the servo on the axle with the servo being on the frame 4 link isn't recommended cause of the bump steer and the links names are what they are you can't name them something else cause you don't like saying it you shouldn't miss inform guys that are new to the hobby its just not right cool you have a 4 link set up with all the bump steer that goes with it I also have a 4 link set up but servo on axle so in short no bump steer thank you for your poorly made and poorly narrated video your definitely not Harley from Harley Designs your making and giving opinions after building ONE rig that's hilarious
Don’t but lock tight I’m the hole it is ignorant to do that because you can thread your grub screw all the way In there always put a little dab on the screw not using red lock tight
Loctite is not good for plastic.. it can cause it to become brittle. I like the intent in the video. This is good for how to add the 4th link but the other stuff is very bad information. I'll still thumb up because the intent here.
My scx10 II transmission mounts differently than his and my drive shaft is more offset to one side. Is that a stock mounting plate or modified?
The ready to run version has the drive lines off to the side. The kit version has the drivelines more centered.
@@SunTzu2024 not my honcho nor the raw builders kit
sorry this is a silly mod 😂
First thing a 3 link with pan hard is a type of 4 link that eliminates pump steer second normal 4 link with a panhard link does not work and will bind becouse the panhard link fights the motion of the normal 4 link if you remove the panhard link and 4 link the front it will turn when you hit bumps or flex on stuff unless you axle mount the servo to taking away from the scale looks!
I would never do this to a scx10.2 the front end works is perfect stock messing with it will only mess it up! 😂
did it to my scx10 blazer noticed smoother flex but the sacrifice of bump steer, more front end movement. i moved the shock angles and softened then up the pan hard rod would hit the diff that's why i went with this setup for now
I'm not concerned that much with scale looks in that aspect that's why I 4 linked my front end with servo on axle I would never 4 link a frame mounted servo cause of bump steer just like this video it's steering guys in the wrong direction doing what he's doing is silly so what he can tell his buddies who all bought their 1st rigs together that he's modifying his so he can be the leader of the misguided pack good luck if you follow his modifications lol
Sorry bro but do a video of it moving up and done on the drag link side ... it turns the steering... gotta have it ... still 4 linked but you still have to have the link bar !!!
53007085148__CDDD2104-E870-4FBF-83B2-EB41B34B0228.JPG
4 link and pan hard bar will cause a bind....you choose one or the other. Not both
6/8/2020 -Thankyou for the how to ! It has helped out sooo much. 🙂 I would rather have a 4-link over a 3-link w/ panhard anyday. Very well done video, with precise step by step details & your stance on this particular subject is equally important to all of us SCX10 II owners. I hope to see more, thanks again. -Paul
Was your chassis mounted servo aftermarket or like that in the kits?
Outdoor Life the chassis mounted servo com's stock like that on the scx10 2 kit and rtr
Salut as tu le liens des pièces ? Merci 👍😉
OK, this video should be titled "what not to do with cms"
Wtf 🤦♂️
Bruh why tf is there no links