3 CONCERT PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS FROM THE PIT!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ก.ย. 2024
- This CONCERT PHOTOGRAPHY HOW TO VIDEO cover 3 real world tips to use when photographing live music events. We cover things that other Creators don't! This video covers an alternative to AUTO ISO, EVIL WHITE SPOT LIGHTS! and the ever changing lineups in bands!
Welcome to my Concert Photography How To Series. Over the years I have photographed Queen, Bad Company, Van Halen, Ted Nugent, Charlie Daniels, Journey, Fleetwood Mac, The Moody Blues and many many others. In this series I will provide tips, tricks, stories and much more from my over 45 years of Music Photography Experience! There will be a lot of information that you just will not find anywhere else. Concert photography and music photography business and practices, concert photography gear with out breaking the bank, music photography must haves to name a few. My work has been published in newspapers, magazines and online world wide. Some of my latest work can be found at buddymagazine.... Last year we photographed 42 shows! Want to see some examples? Check out my music photography portfolio at robertcmaxfield.com, my instagram @robertc.maxfield and for more concert photography tips check out my TH-cam Channel @robertc.maxfieldiiphotography and Subscribe! If your band is looking for photos we would love to talk with you! Send me a note at robert@robertcmaxfield.com
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Auto ISO is really what you want, so much better to use that and sometimes change shutter speed a little depending on artist movement and just shoot wide open the whole time.
Hi Account! I prefer not to use auto ISO. I like the total control I get and I like to make the decision rather than the camera doing it. There are times I intentionally like to under expose. The auto ISO would fight me by trying to make a decision I wouldn't want. With the ISO set to a specific setting I only need to worry about 2 things as far as exposure . I will admit that I use lower ISO settings than a lot of modern photographers. With the ISO set I can determine the shutter speed depending on the focal length of the lens I am using and using spot metering I get my exposure off the face most of the time. If the auto ISO misreads the exposure it would end up being a mess. I know some people use it and like it. It's a personal preference. The only auto settings I use are focusing and white balance. Thanks for watching! -R
@@robertc.maxfieldiiphotography You can set a min and a max range. I like to think I am quick on my fingers to change settings but I will never be as quick as my camera to adjust for changing lights back and forth.
You also pretty much do not touch the other settings for exposure, ISO for the most part should be all that changes no? Shooting pretty much wide open all the time and setting shutter speed based on how much the artist is moving to freeze it. ISO really is the only setting you change for exposure in concerts. You might adjust shutter speed slightly up or down for a talking segment vs high energy stage and you might stop down for a wider group shot but not often.
You set your shutter speed based on your focal length? I understand the whole wider has less shake side of things but usually you still want to be fast enough that if someone suddenly moves you can freeze everything. So sitting somewhere over 1/640 all the time.
Especially with RAW if you are +/- 1 or 2 stops it's usually not even noticeable once corrected in post. Just wondering because with setting shutter speed and aperture and using auto ISO you pretty much do not have to think about exposure at all and can focus on other things.
You also mentioned in one video you usually sit around 1600 ISO or lower. That would be only in decent lighting conditions yeah? Cause even at 2.8 and 1600 ISO you are really limiting your shutter speed to being very slow.
Jeb, The way I shoot I never or rarely have to worry about it. I was shooting a festival and another photographer asked me how I was handling auto ISO and I told him I wasn't. I leave mine set at 1600 and never move it unless I need to bump to 2000 in rare occasions. I am quick enough to be able to handle shutterspeed and aperture and even focus point and spot metering. I know it gives some Canon shooters fits because the metering and focusing are different from Nikon to Canon in the way they work. Sony's work like Canon's until you set to the proper firmware update. Basically it is the exact same way I photographed concerts in the 70's and 80's using film. The film was a constant ASA/ISO 400 and the ISO never changed. We didn't use metering in some cases unless the camera had spot metering. What you did was to set the shutterspeed the same as the focal length of the lens and then decided on the aperture by how bright the stage lighting was. If you use this system there is no need at all for auto ISO. The system has been used for concert photography since the late 1960's. -R
Jeb, I have been shooting concerts for nearly 50 years in all kinds of conditions, stadiums,, arenas, small and large clubs, extreme heat and cold and even rain. Major touring legendary bands such as Fleetwood Mac, Journey, Van Halen and so on. I have photographed for magazines and newspapers. I am very well versed in handling my cameras. You might look at my website at www.robertcmaxfield.com AND look at my historical archives. Many of which were shot on TRI-X 400 ISO black and white film OR Ektachrome 400 slide film. The historical archive most were done with an Olympus OM-1N manual camera with a 200mm f3.5 lens no auto focus no auto anything. ISO does not change on film at all. Take a look at the whole site. 40 years or more ago photographers did not have many of the features some people depend on today. We got the job done. Music photography did not start in the year 2000.
@@robertc.maxfieldiiphotography I just cannot see that actually working, shutter speed matching focal length will very frequently lead to motion blur if not most almost always. You cannot freeze a person moving around on stage at 1/60th.
Am sure with experience you can move focus point and change a setting or 2 quick-ish but no human will be able to keep up with the camera using auto ISO. 1600 is also going to be way too low if you have a fast enough shutter speed to freeze a moving person even when wide open.
ISO is also the best setting to change for exposure since it is the only one that can be 'corrected' in post. If you have motion blur or wrong DoF you cannot recover that but you can fix a good amount of noise after the fact. ISO is the only one of the 3 that doesn't have a creative impact which makes it best for using as the exposure dial and given how fast the camera can change it letting it decide between 100-12800 itself is always going to be the best bet.