Hi Jerome, In general after watching a few of your videos. I want to congratulate you on the successes you have had and also thank you for sharing the in's and out's. most bonsai channels just tell you that they will cut here and wire their and that's it. What I like about your teaching style is that you don't just say you will cut here or there, or fertilize, you also explain why, when and how and also the consequences for the steps you take on each tree. Well done, and thank you.
Great tutorial again Jerome! These maples do grow like crazy one they get going so ive no doubt this tree will look vey diffeent a couple of monhs down the line.
Good question Cheryl! I would say I am going to let the leader grow for another 3-4 years to get better taper and to thicken up the base, by that time I should have all the main branches in place. So I would say around 5-7 years and I will start refinement. I would work on the roots right away, as soon as it starts to harden, get it into our bonsai soil and a shallow pot.
@@cherylandrews3195 it actually speeds up the thickening process as the roots can only grow laterally, they will start to pull the trunk with the root flair. So you are basically widening the root flair and thickening the trunk and if you have a sacrifice branch on top of the tree it will thicken even wuicker
Unrelated to the maple, but is it safe to move an adenium I've been growing indoors directly into full outside sun without any transition period? Thanks! Love your videos!
That's a great maple, bro. Here, I do not want to teach you or something because I am still beginner in bonsai, but I just wanna say one thing. I have ever heard that if we want to get the branches bigger until they big enough in a faster way, do not ever cut the main branches (the main shoots of branches) and just let them growing well. In my opinion, those branches are not big enough if compared with the trunk. So, it would be better if you just wired them and let them growing. Big loves from Indonesia.
Hey Mukrim, your feedback is welcome and appreciated. I am not entirely sure I like that first branch and cut it back for that reason, but you are correct if you want to thicken a branch let it grow to thicken. For now I’m letting the lead branch grow to thicken the tree and then decide a little later
Not necessarily, Japanese maples naturally push out branches this low. If you look at some pictures online, you will see that mostly JP have multi trunk or push branches this low. Having said that, I am not too big off a fan of that lower branch on this tree, I may remove it and then later graft one at a better place.
Boy that tree has been through a lot. Can I ask why you cut the tip on the lowest branch? Wouldn't it have made more sense to leave it to grow out and thicken significantly more than the branches above it to provide an aged look?
Hey Michael I like the way you think!! I wasn’t entirely sure about that bottom branch, I don’t like where it is placed.I thought it would be smarter to let the top grow out to thicken the entire tree and fix that taper. I can always do thread grafts later and have the branches exactly where I want them.
Hi! you can absolutely do that, and I sometimes do it! However, I prefer to keep as much as of the branch because once I place the branch, it changes everything. So what I would have thought would be a good length to cut before I wire would now be too short.
Hello, thank for sharing this video. I think j Your first brach on the bottem of the three is to low. Better to cut it. Over rhe years there will be deyback on the top of the three. That is normal by Acer palmatums. Succes. sorry for my english
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Thanks for the great video Jerome!
Umm honey! Where is my turkey cutter? I have this turkey I need to cut. 😬😂😂 great video!!!
😂😂😂
Thanks buddy for the great tutorial 👍👍👍. Keep providing such information.
Thank you, will do!
Hey Jerome...I appreciate your clear and understandable teaching style.
Hey Jim, thank you very much 🙏🌳
Great tutorial, as usual, Jerome. Keep growing. Thanks
Thank you brother!
Hi Jerome, In general after watching a few of your videos. I want to congratulate you on the successes you have had and also thank you for sharing the in's and out's. most bonsai channels just tell you that they will cut here and wire their and that's it. What I like about your teaching style is that you don't just say you will cut here or there, or fertilize, you also explain why, when and how and also the consequences for the steps you take on each tree. Well done, and thank you.
Hey Jaco! Thank you so much for your kind words, that means a lot!!
@@WeareTheBonsaiSupply Oh and my apologies for not mentioning Mari, great work as a team also. Great to have your wife also an a bonsai enthusiast.
@@WeareTheBonsaiSupply Oh and my apologies for not mentioning Mari, great work as a team also. Great to have your wife also as a bonsai enthusiast.
@@jacostrauss9167 no worries 🙂 I couldn’t do it without her!
As always Jerome! Awesome information!!! Makes me go out and cut my neighbors tree down. 🤔
Come out nice for the beginner stage .
Sometimes it is difficult to find the beauty at the beginner stages, I’m glad you can see it 🙂
Great tutorial again Jerome! These maples do grow like crazy one they get going so ive no doubt this tree will look vey diffeent a couple of monhs down the line.
This video is fantastic. I have a layering that I did last year. Perfect timing . Thanks 😊
Glad it was helpful!
Great simple explanation and demonstration... looking forward to a follow up this fall/autumn?
When is the right time to do this in tropical climate, specifically Costa Rica??? Thanks!!!
Should be about the same time. Although you shouldn’t grow Japanese maples in a tropical climate
Did I hear right. You said its a New Zealand Japanese maple...?
I'm in NZ and don't know of it. Can you elaborate some plz?
Thanks.
What's the brand of that small saw?
Also are there different kinds of cut past or do they all do the same function
There are many different types and brands, but they all do the same
Great video ty
Thank you Calvin
Great video, as always. Is it to late in the year to air layer from a Florida native Silver Maple? I’m in Melbourne, Florida?
Hey Jim, I would wait until spring unless you are very far south.
Is there an update to this tree?
Jerome, can this be done now, in late July? I’m in Connecticut. I have a JM which needs the exact same thing. Thanks
Yes absolutely Matt, I did this video two days ago.
Thanks Jerome. I’ll get right to it.
thx for the video! how many years till this could be a tree in refinement? How many years would you leave a JM seedling before working on it?
Good question Cheryl! I would say I am going to let the leader grow for another 3-4 years to get better taper and to thicken up the base, by that time I should have all the main branches in place. So I would say around 5-7 years and I will start refinement. I would work on the roots right away, as soon as it starts to harden, get it into our bonsai soil and a shallow pot.
@@WeareTheBonsaiSupply wouldnt the shallow pot stop the trunk from thickening?
@@cherylandrews3195 it actually speeds up the thickening process as the roots can only grow laterally, they will start to pull the trunk with the root flair. So you are basically widening the root flair and thickening the trunk and if you have a sacrifice branch on top of the tree it will thicken even wuicker
@@WeareTheBonsaiSupply thank you so much for the info! Have a great weekend :)
Unrelated to the maple, but is it safe to move an adenium I've been growing indoors directly into full outside sun without any transition period? Thanks! Love your videos!
Hi! So typically I would do a shade transition period. However Adenium are tuff as nails, I would defoliate it and stick it right into full sun.
@@WeareTheBonsaiSupply Awesome, thanks for the reply! I think I'll set it outside in the shade for a week or so and then put it into full sun then.
Awesome video thanks. Where can someone get material like this? I would love to have a maple like that to work with
Hey Oscar, I would look at landscaping nurseries, they often have pretty cool stuff
Cool thanks
That's a great maple, bro.
Here, I do not want to teach you or something because I am still beginner in bonsai, but I just wanna say one thing. I have ever heard that if we want to get the branches bigger until they big enough in a faster way, do not ever cut the main branches (the main shoots of branches) and just let them growing well.
In my opinion, those branches are not big enough if compared with the trunk. So, it would be better if you just wired them and let them growing.
Big loves from Indonesia.
Hey Mukrim, your feedback is welcome and appreciated. I am not entirely sure I like that first branch and cut it back for that reason, but you are correct if you want to thicken a branch let it grow to thicken. For now I’m letting the lead branch grow to thicken the tree and then decide a little later
isn't the lower branch too low compared to the other branches?
Not necessarily, Japanese maples naturally push out branches this low. If you look at some pictures online, you will see that mostly JP have multi trunk or push branches this low. Having said that, I am not too big off a fan of that lower branch on this tree, I may remove it and then later graft one at a better place.
Boy that tree has been through a lot. Can I ask why you cut the tip on the lowest branch? Wouldn't it have made more sense to leave it to grow out and thicken significantly more than the branches above it to provide an aged look?
Hey Michael I like the way you think!! I wasn’t entirely sure about that bottom branch, I don’t like where it is placed.I thought it would be smarter to let the top grow out to thicken the entire tree and fix that taper. I can always do thread grafts later and have the branches exactly where I want them.
Any update?
Why not cut the branches to size first and then wire them?
Hi! you can absolutely do that, and I sometimes do it! However, I prefer to keep as much as of the branch because once I place the branch, it changes everything. So what I would have thought would be a good length to cut before I wire would now be too short.
👍👍
Hello, thank for sharing this video. I think j
Your first brach on the bottem of the three is to low. Better to cut it. Over rhe years there will be deyback on the top of the three. That is normal by Acer palmatums. Succes. sorry for my english
Hey man! you should watch the maple videos of ''Herons bonsai''...
Don't forget your safety ⚠️ goggles or glasses please ⚠️ 🙈 Thank you.