Congratulations you are the first person I have found that explains how to programme one of these inverters to run using a standard motor rather than a spindle variety. Thank you ever so much!
Southern Genius to figure out all the codes. I have a VFD and it's the same model you explained. It drove me crazy trying to figure it out. I watched this video, and the gray area came together for me. I'm running my 1960 13" South Bend Lathe on this VFD. I need to wire in the switch now that you explained it. I appreciate what you did to put this together and you did a great job explaining it. I agree that it was done very professionally, thank you. Nothing better than living in the South.
Wow! Thank you for such a kind comment. I’m so glad it was helpful for you. I was in the same situation as you when I first started. I had to watch a ton of videos, read a bunch of forums and talk to the electronics guys where I work before I got it figured out. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video, I was able to get a 3-phase jump saw working using the 5HP HY VFD. I was even able to wire up the old momentary start/stop switches and emergency stop by programming the three communication ports to correspond to the Run, Stop, and Emergency commands. What's great is the VFD will be able to function with either an "NO" or "NC" momentary switch, and it works the same with either style. The saw was previously in a 460v factory directly wired to the industrial 3-phase supply, so instead I re-wired the motor to the low voltage 230v configuration and hooked the motor directly up to the VFD, bypassing the old relay and fuse setup that the saw came with. The VFDs are really awesome, having all the switching built into the unit is great, but it's even better that it has the com ports that are programmable to like 30 different functions you can control with external switches. In my case I only needed start/stop/emergency because it's just a jump saw. I did set my PD014/15 acceleration time to 10s because the saw blade is 14" and I'm hoping the longer time is easier on the motor and belt. By the way, to anybody wondering if they can power a 230v motor when the documentation says the VFD is 220v, you certainly can! Just make sure you set your Pd008 to 230, and make sure that your input voltage is 230v or higher on the lines as measured at the VFD, because the VFD can't step up your voltage, but it can transform down if it needs to, for example if you have 240v at your panel like I did. Also, I used stranded copper 14AWG for the communication wires which may have been overkill but they did fit well, and I used solid copper 10AWG for the power supply and motor supply wires, which were a tight fit. Granted my motor is only rated for 12A, but 10AWG is what I had on hand and it worked.
man you helped me greatly i added a much larger lathe 25x80 and was about to upgrade my phase converter that i built when I watch this video I decided to purchase a huanyang GT 20HP first one arrived beat to crap thank you delivery company emailed company and they had a new one in 4 days they said 4 days and unlike most company's they kept their word hooked it up codes are different than yours but it is awesome from one Southern Boy to another Thanks alot
Really appreciate you taking the time to put out this video. Just bought one of these after my very simple Baldor VFD shit the bed on my 1966 Bport after 25 years. Tried deciphering the manual till my head was ready to explode. Gonna finish wiring it up tonight and follow your steps in programming and hope I don't let the smoke out! Tks again.
@@southerningenuity4458 worked like a champ..the old mill is active again! Thanks again for your video. I tried setting it to use the pot on the front for speed control but couldnt get the full range. It pegged out at like 42 cycles if I remember correctly..I put it back to use the keypad.
Double check your setting for parameter PD005(max frequency). If your motor is 60hz, make sure PD005 is set at 60. For some reason, (I’m not sure why) you have to program PD005 before you program PD003 or PD004. Hope this helps.
@@southerningenuity4458 thanks..I just got done with a waiting job...I thought I did it according to your instructions..ill reset and try again...thank you! Hope these chicom drives last...the fan is quite noisey I noticed...cant hear it over the radio and the mill running tho!
Hey, your info was key to programing my HY inverter. I have the same mill and model inverter so it was easy as jotting the parameters down and run out to the machine to punch them in. It was literally running in minutes. Thank you so much!!
Already this video is incredibly helpful!!! Thank you so much. Not too many ppl on the west coast have info or knowledge on phase conversion or powering manual mills. 🙏🙏🙏
This is an excellent video, I'm trying to replace a fried VFD on our power hammer motor and reading the manual was painful. This gives me something to work on this weekend.
So glad I found this video. I found a couple of WWII motors that are 3 phase at 110v. I was a bit concerned that I would not be able to run them (not sure what I am going to use them for, but they were cheap). I may set one up as a belt sander motor.
You video, knowledge, and presentation are as good as your Country Accent. I loved it. Thank you for very informative upload. I liked it. One of the Best on TH-cam. Thanks for sharing.
Hello! Thanks for a great video! My inverter was working perfectly but now when i turn it on, it goes straight to error01? I press the stop/rest butter and flicks straight to the error again. Ive got the 9100-1t3-00750G 9600 series 7.5kw 220v to 380v. Massive appreciate any help!
Sorry , but my knowledge in this area is limited. I can’t speak to much more than what was covered in the video. It was a learning experience for me as I was working on my project, and I wanted to share what I learned, so I made the video. I wouldn’t want to give you any incorrect advice, so you’ll have to ask someone smarter than me. Sorry I couldn’t help, but thanks for watching.
Great video sir! I seen a Bridgeport on marketplace for cheap and had to have it. Its still wired for high voltage from who knows when and where but I'm going to give it a go! Thanks for clearing up the process!
FYI - They do in-fact sell drives that can step up voltage. I'm currently programming a HE100-T3S-7R5G and it is 1ph 220V Input and 17A 3ph 380V -Great video tho, lot of helpful info.
You don’t know how long I’ve been looking for this video, I’ve became a homegrown DevOps engineer all because of a couple of questions I just couldn’t answer myself. One of those questions was… which way to I face a 2-phase to 3-phase converter? Although it sounds obvious now. I could have used you about 2 years ago!
Thanks again for this great video. I got the same unit and set it up as per your instruction, but for some reason the unit only ramp up 25 HZ when on-board pot is all the way up. I'm running a 208-volt 3 phase ,1750 rpm motor for an exhaust fan. I set it for 4 poles per the chart. any ideas would be appreciated.
Check parameter PD072. Several others have had a similar issue and PD072 had to be adjusted. It controls the upper limit for your HZ when using a pot for speed control. PD073 will set the lower limit. So for example, if you wanted the motor to run at 20hz with the pot turned all the way down, and at 60hz with it turned all the way up, then set PD072 to 60 and PD073 to 20. Hope this helps.
One thing that is looked down upon when putting VFD's on motors is the insulation class of the motor. If the insulation class is for example a B class then the motor could fail prematurely due to the high voltage spikes the vfd outputs. I always make sure the insulation class on the motor is F or greater. another thing to consider is those cheesiness drives typically don't have the heat syncs exposed, and that's important because VFD generate a lot of EMC and it will in term destroy the bearings in the motor if the motor isnt grounded properly to the heat syncs
Great video, thank you! I'm wondering if it will have to be reprogramed if power is lost...also, I'm using it in a barn to run a fan in summertime, it will be off all winter. Will the unit be damaged when sitting through winter in cold ambient? Thanks again.
The unit does not have to be reprogrammed after power loss. I turn mine off every time i leave the shop and it works fine after turning the power back on. I would take measures to protect the unit from moisture, dust, and critters. Not sure how the cold in a barn would affect it. Thanks for watching!
@@southerningenuity4458 Thanks again for this great video. I got the same unit and set it up as per your instruction, but for some reason the unit only ramp up 25 HZ when on-board pot is all the way up. I'm running a 208-volt 3 phase ,1750 rpm motor for an exhaust fan. I set it for 4 poles per the chart. any ideas would be appreciated.
Very good detailed explanations. I was stuck on the amps x 1.73 bit too. Also if my house is 240v 10amp common AC electricity do i get a VFD with 10amp input and 15 amp output? First i ordered the 7.5amp input and the 10 amp output. My motor is rated 3.7 amp about. Side Note: The VFD look the same as the VEVOR ones being sold by VEVOR and on AliExpress as well, i hope these instructions turn out to be the same to follow.
The reason for multiplying the Full Load Amps by 1.73 is to make sure that the drive's internal components will be able to handle the load demanded from the 3 phase motor that is being supplied from a single phase source. This is because the drive itself is being supplied by only 2 lines of single phase power that it must then turn into 3 lines of 3 phase power for the motor. This is called "de-rating" the drive, or "oversizing" the drive. So, if your 240v 3 phase motor has a full load amp rating of 3.7, then multiply the 3.7 amps times 1.73, which gives you 6.4 amps. Your drive should have a rated output of 6.4 amps or more to adequately supply the motor when it is pulling it's full amp rating. Keep in mind, the 1.73 rule should work for pretty much any brand of VFD when being used for converting the single phase power into 3 phase. Oversizing the drive won't hurt the motor. I can't speak to the program parameters for other brands of drives, as this is the only one I've ever used. They may or may not be the same. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
Ok thanks for explaining that. I get that bit clearer now. Seems I should of kept the 7.5amp input and 10amp output VFD drive, would been about right. What i was curious about particularly was if my mains regular house electricity is 240v 10amp supply to the VFD was over its rated input of 7.5amps is that too much for the VFD.
To make sure I understand the question, do you mean: "Will a 240v, 10 amp breaker be too much for a VFD that has a rated output of 7.5 amps?" If this is what you're asking, then no. The VFD should only pull as much current as it needs, up to its rated output. The 10 amp breaker will supply up to 10 amps if needed, but if the circuit draws more than 10 amps, the breaker should trip to prevent damage or overloading the wiring that could cause a fire.
@@southerningenuity4458 You got it. Yep, thats what i was curious about. Arrrr so the VFD only draws as much as it needs being 7.5amps in this case. I was thinking because my house supply electricity is 10amps it would break the VFD or something. Sorry for confusion, i just don't know how electricity gadgets work that well. What I've ascertained from you answers is i made a mistake even sending the VFD i purchased back for a return, i never even received it i just asked for a return before it was posted and it would have worked, but i will buy a bigger one if reordering as i heard you say and have read before that it doesn't hurt if rated for more amps for also if i get a bigger 3 phase motor in future it will be future prove for that too. This current motor being an induction motor 3 phase and 1400 RPM and 1HP or so and i hope to get 2300 RPM at full throttle for 1000 counts (revolutions) the motor may not have enough torque to spin the VE Type Injector Pump that fast . Its a test bench diesel pumps i am diy building.
12/15/23 I have the Huanyang VFD went to hook up the speed control pod book tell use V1 AGM and VR I found the V1 and AGM but where is the VR? any thought or help would be nice. BTW Nice Video Mike E.
If I’m understanding the question correctly, you’re wanting to use a potentiometer to control the speed of the motor. If so, there is a jumper on the drive near the control circuit terminals. It will need to be positioned on either the VI or VR side depending on whether you’re using an external potentiometer or the onboard potentiometer. Rewatch starting at time frame 11:00 minutes for the visual and explanation. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Howdy again, ordered a VFD, for my 2 HP 3 Phase motor that FLA is 5.22. in your video you said that you ordered one a little under what you needed as to the VFD and looking at the chart you said the the Bridgeport is 60 Hz, but you showed the 50 Hz VFD HY02D223B Did I miss something.? I ordered the Genesis 27 D, didn't want to go that expensive but no worries now. Thanks again, 👍👍👍👍
From what I could find online, the HY series drives from Haunyang should be able to accept input frequencies ranging from 47hz to 63hz and deliver output frequencies from 0.10hz to 400.00hz. After I learned about the calculation for sizing the VFD, I realized that mine was slightly under rated for my 2HP motor. This shouldn't be a major issue unless I put a really heavy load on the motor that would require it to use the full 2HP. If that were to occur, the motor would pull more amps than the drive is rated to deliver, and thus potentially cause the drive to overheat, fault out, or fail. The motor on my Bridgeport can operate at either 50hz or 60hz with no problems. The RPM will be less when operated at 50hz (1430 RPM) vs operating at 60hz (1700 RPM) according to the nameplate. It would also require slightly more amps to produce the rated 2HP when operated at 50hz (6.8 amps) vs 60hz (6.5 amps). I have my drive set to operate the motor at 60hz all the time. Hope this helps!
Vfd have a over current function up to 150% for 60 sec of the max amp they’re rated for, that’s why you don’t have any issues with yours, your motor needs the full power only at startup to brake inertia or resistance for a compressor for example pretty smart that little thing
Did Chop sticks come with the drive or did u have to purchase them separately?? AB wojodneve been better in my opinion but threat is just my preference as Inwirk with them daily. Anyways good video and electrical work if you’re not an electrician.
Great video. I have a 3hp 3ph spindle Moulder that I’d like to run on single ph. The machine also has a seperate 3ph power feed unit .75hp. Is it possible to run both on the same VFD? If so how would I achieve this, wiring etc.
I'm not an expert with these things, but my first thought is you would need 2 VFDs to do that. The power feed would most likely be started and stopped independently from the spindle, and would thus need its own VFD. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
I don't believe that you need to multiply the FLA on the motor by 1.73 to figure the amperage draw of the motor. The term Full Load Amps is already the draw of the motor for the input of the three varying legs. The FLA is taken from Tables in the NEC 430-150 for overcurrent protection and thusly the conductor size. This number is then multiplied by a minimum of 125% to allow for inrush of the motor starting but can be increased to a larger percent allowed by the NEC if it won't start. The manufacturer may indicate a maximum overcurrent protection device specific to the unit model. What you've done should work it may not have the best over current protection.
I probably could have explained it a little better in the video, but multiplying the FLA by 1.73 isn't to figure the amp draw of the motor, it's for identifying the proper size drive that will be needed. The VFD is using 2 input legs (phases) to create 3 output legs (phases). Concentrating the same required motor amperage (FLA) on the two input phases instead of three can cause the VFD’s input diodes to fail. Therefore over sizing the drive is recommended. I searched and read information from numerous web sights trying to understand this myself. Some recommended doubling the size, but most used the 1.73 figure. Thanks for the input and thanks for watching!
The 1.73 multiplier is a current conversion from three phase to single phase. Once you get the current value for the motor using the 1.73 multiplier, you still have to multiply that value by 125% to size the circuit correctly.
You did a great job with this Video! My only problem is that my Motor is running on half RPM and hrz that it should run, eben though i have set the right parameter.
Not exactly sure what is causing that, but double check parameters PD003, 004, and 005. PD005 is the max frequency (Hz) and has to be set first before the other two. Also, make sure the correct pole number was entered for PD143. Another viewer had the same issue with his motor and he had to adjust parameter PD072. Look at the previous comments on this video to see where he and I discussed the issue. Let me know what you find out. Thanks for watching!
@@timo_str3359 Setting PD002 to 0 means that the speed will be controlled by the arrow buttons on the front of the VFD. So did you mean that you can adjust the speed with the arrow buttons? PD002 needs to be set to 1 to control speed via potentiometer (onboard or external). Be sure to set the jumper to the correct position (either "VI" or "VR" ) if you haven't already. Check out this video. This guy has his drill press running on one of these drives and he has his set up with a pot for speed control. th-cam.com/video/0_nHzpN2xyI/w-d-xo.html I went out to my shop and experimented with a potentiometer on my setup. I set the jumper to "VI" and PD002 to 1, I found that the max Hz I could get was 50. That's because PD072 factory setting is 50. I changed it to 60. That gave me 60 Hz when the pot was at the lowest resistance setting. PD073 will set the lower Hz limit for when the pot is at its highest resistance setting. Factory setting is 0. I set it to 20. These 2 parameters gave me a Hz range from 20 to 60 when using the pot for speed control.
Hey.... Found this video so inspiring I went out and got myself a 220v 3ph table saw.... It's a slightly different brand vfd, but everything else lines up.... I entered all the same parameters as you had, it ran for a second then shut off stating an 'overcurrent during running' error... Now it won't spin the motor and gives that error right away, even when the motor is disconnected..... I only have so much hair left to pull out..... Any thoughts?
I'm not an electrical expert, my knowledge with these VFDs is limited to not much more than what was covered in the video. That being said, here are a few things to try/check. Make sure the drive is sized correctly using the calculation in the video. Make sure to use the start/stop buttons on the front of the panel, or external switch attached to the control circuit terminals to start the motor. (Don't use a switch between the VFD and the motor) Experiment with the acceleration/deceleration times. You may need a longer acceleration time to avoid the over current. You may need a longer deceleration time too once you get it going. If I have my milling machine running at a really high RPM and shut it off, the momentum in the spindle will cause it to error out. Hope this helps. If not then you'll need to consult someone more qualified than I. Thanks for watching, and let me know how it turns out.
Very good video, now that all I wanted to do is find a VFD variable speed drive for a 2" belt sander, I really confused, have a 2HP motor to purchase but they don't list all the info on it. Want it to be 3 phase motor and convert my 220 single phase to 3 phase to run the motor. But sure found out some very important info here. Any ideas be sure to let me know👍👍👍👍
Do you know if a vfd would work on a bridge crane with 4 motors drawing 15amps of all functions. Motors are 3 phase at 480V 2 motors at 2.5 amps. 2 motors at 4.5 amps. I’ve heard that I may have to get a rotary phase converter due to hard start load due to lifting.
I'm sure it can be done, however, I don't know enough about it to give sufficient advice. Gonna have to defer that one to someone else. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for your video. I'm in exactly the same spot (i.e. a Bridgeport mill with a 575v motor). Just curious what motor you swapped onto the mill? Size and specs would be a helpful guide for me. Thank again.
I purchased another motor on EBay with the same frame (145TY-4). It’s an older motor labeled to be able to run on 200 or 400 volts at either 50 or 60 hertz. It’s 2 HP and operates at 1700rpm. Even though it was labeled as being wired for 208 volts, I made sure to check and verify the wiring. Thanks for watching!
The neutral is not connected to the VFD. The VFD can run without the neutral as long as the red and black wires are connected as shown and the earth ground is connected to the VFD as shown. The neutral is connected to the 110v outlet on the bottom of the cabinet so I can run my DRO and power feed. The earth ground is connected to all parts in the cabinet (toggle switch, 110v outlet, the VFD, and the cabinet itself, and the motor casing.) The 110v outlet is supplied by the black wire on one side of the double pole toggle switch. (basically using 110v of the 220v from the breaker panel.)
220v and 240v are basically the same on residential power. You can safely supply something labeled as 220v with the 240v breaker as long as the amp rating of the breaker is not higher than the amp rating of the wire(s) it supplies.
@@southerningenuity4458 thank you so much. Very informative. So both of the ground cables are going through the VFD. The one coming from the breaker and the one going to the machine are connected to the same ground terminal. For the neutral cable do we need to make the 110 outlet at the bottom to use it. like is the outlet necessary? Again thank you so much for the effort you put into this I appreciate it
Yes, the bare wire from the breaker panel is connected to the VFD and the machine. The neutral wire (white wire) isn't necessary to run the VFD. The VFD can run with just the 2 power wires and the earth ground. I just used a neutral wire so I could put a 110v outlet in the bottom of my cabinet.
I'm not an electrical expert, but my first thought would be, yes, if configured correctly. It would probably require more than what I covered in the video, especially with the heat pump cycling on and off, and the cooker varying temperatures. But, I just can't say for certain, so you its probably best to seek advice from someone more experienced with those types of applications. Thanks for watching!
Great content and well explained. I just bought a used lathe that runs on 220 volt, 3-phase power. The inverter is a great idea but I just ran into a snag. The motor I have is a 2-speed motor. Is your motor a single or two speed? I can't find anything on using a VFD with a duel speed motor and the manufacture isn't answering my questions. What got my attention was you going through the programming. I noticed you had to enter the number of poles. With a two speed motor, the poles change depending on which speed you are using. Any insight on this?
My knowledge in this area is limited. The content in the video is based on what I learned during my project, so I can’t speak with certainty on some of the broader subject matter questions. So, I don’t know for sure the best way to handle the issue of a two-speed motor (my motor is single speed), but you may be able to connect the VFD to the motor’s high-speed wiring configuration and run it at high-speed RPM as normal. When the low speed is required, use the VFD’s potentiometer to adjust the frequency so the motor runs at the low-speed RPM. (or vice versa) Just make sure the VFD is programmed with the correct pole number based on which wiring configuration you use. Let me know how it turns out! Thanks for watching!
@@southerningenuity4458 Thanks for the quick response. We are on the same page as far as the best way to use a VFD on a duel speed motor. I just need to decide if I want to go with one of these cheap Chinese made VFD or pull the trigger on decent rotary phase converter. $169 vs. $1100 is a big difference in price. Like worth taking a chance on the VFD knowing that if it doesn't work, I'll need the rotary phase converted.
In short, yes, but there are factors to be considered for correct operation. I searched and found many articles on google regarding this, but I’m not familiar enough with it to give proper advice. Thanks for watching!
Great video. I need a vfd for my used rotary car lift but was not sure how to wire it. Do you think the parameters you went over is all I need for the lift. It's just a small hydraulic motor. I just want something to be simple for once. Lol
Thanks! It should work if all you need it to do is run a 3 phase electric motor from a single phase source with no need to control the speed of the motor. That's assuming it is one of the Huanyang drives with identical parameter functions. I have no experience with any other brand of drive as of now. Be careful, and thanks for watching!
The one I used is 2.2kW (about 3HP) model # HY02D223B, but it was slightly under rated for my motor. Be sure to use the calculation mentioned in the video to find the correct size drive for your motor. (Time frame in the video is 3:50 to 5:50). Below is a link to the one that I bought. (I don't receive any compensation from anyone to promote or endorse any products.) www.amazon.com/Variable-Frequency-Inverter-Converter-HUANYANG/dp/B0775S7KFW/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=KQ0CR89ITM5B&keywords=huanyang%2Bhy%2Bvfd&qid=1676253027&sprefix=huanyang%2BHY%2Caps%2C116&sr=8-1-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFMV0VNNkNHOTZEWjEmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA3OTUwNTYyMUk3SUc4WE41TEIwJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2NjIzMTkzQ0M0MUxGMEc2TTRRJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1
Hey brother I got a question about why you hooked your manual on/off switch up through the control circuit terminal on the drive? Could you have just left it the way it was wired and still used the switch? Or does it HAVE to be wired through the vfd now? Reason I’m asking is because I have blown a few of these trying to get it working correctly and I have not tried it as you did? Thanks for any help brother
The manual says not to use any kind of switching device/circuit breaker between the VFD and the motor. I think it can damage the VFD if it's wired that way. I just used the old switch because it was already located in a convenient location and I could still wire it in a way that allowed forward or reverse operation. The VFD's common terminal sends a low voltage to the switch. Activating the switch directs that voltage to either the "forward" or "reverse" terminal, and the VFD then sends power to the motor accordingly. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the reply. I am also hooking up a mill Like you. It’s a tawianese Bridgeport copy. I just had the motor rebuilt and is brand new. So… I guess I missed where in the manual Is says not to hook the switch between the motor and vfd. My switch is also forward/reverse. I’ve honestly never used a mill in reverse but it’s there. I’m thinking I should try it wiring like yours is(IE, switch to vfd then to motor), not vfd to switch to motor. Is there a way you could Call me so I can pick your brain for a min? Thanks again brother
I’m curious, since my home has 3 phase and I wanna go off grid using solar, is it possible to use my 5kw inverter which outputs a single phase , hook it up to a vfd which will be also 5 kw and feed 3 phase to the mains to run my house ?
I honestly don't know the answer to that question. I suppose it could be possible with the right setup, but now you have me curious. Why does your home need 3 phase instead of single phase?
I have a metal muncher and a band saw I want to run with a vfd can I do this off of a single vfd or would I have to reprogram every time I change machines? Thanks for any advice!
It might be possible to do that if you're just using it as a phase converter. The motors on both machines would have to have the same parameters (voltage, RPM, frequency, and poles). You would also need to consider whether or not you would need to run one of them in reverse. You wouldn't want to accidentally start one in reverse if it's not meant to run in reverse, but this could probably be prevented with some creative start/stop control wiring. The drive and supply wire would need to be sized to accommodate the motor with the highest full load amp rating. You would need a properly rated triple pole/double throw switch to direct the power to the desired machine. (This switch should only be actuated when the drive is OFF to prevent damaging the drive.) There are probably other things (that I can't currently think of) that should be considered as well, so you would definitely need to research it further and consult someone more qualified than me. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
So if I’m reading and watching all this correctly. This drive converts the voltage from 240 to 208 (what your motor is ) to a three phase set up? So if I had 240 volt 3 phase motor, and 240 volt single phase power, this would make it 240 volt 3 phase?
That’s correct. But be sure to correctly size the drive for your motor. I can only speak to the particular kind of drive that I used, but everything I found about them said it’s best to oversize (or some call it “de-rate”) the drive to be sure the internal components can handle the differences associated with converting the 2 lines of single phase power into 3 lines of 3 phase power. (That’s the part of the video where I talk about multiplying the FLA by 1.73.) Thanks for watching!
@@southerningenuity4458 thanks for the help. This would be running a small variable speed grinder. I’ve looked for single phase variable drives and while they have them, you loose torque at low speed, which is why I want a 3 phase. Appreciate the guidance and your time in replying 👍
I don't have 3 phase power in my shop to run a 3 phase transformer. I consulted the electrical gurus where I work about possibly buying a phase converter and then running it through a transformer to the motor. They said that wouldn't be a good idea. After some research and more guru consultation we decided it would be better to just buy another motor and run it with the VFD. Thanks for watching!
i just order new VFD and 2,2KW spindle, i need know what cable i need 230V 1-phase wall socket to VFD cable AWG and fuse size 16Amp maybe need, and VFD to spindle cable 3 phase+ground. shield or not ? power to wall have 230V 16Amp, VDF is 2,2KW 220V in 1-phase, 220V out 3-phase. spindle 3.phase 2,2KW motor. need know cable size, power cable need be 13AWG because supply have 220C/16A, but what need be VFD to spindle motor ? 3-phase 2.2KW motor.
Hello, I’m not sure I fully understand your question. But, just be sure to find the “full load amp” (FLA) rating for your spindle and multiply it by 1.73. Use this value to determine proper AWG and breaker to supply the VFD. (12AWG is suitable for up to 20 amps.) The same AWG should work for connecting the spindle to the VFD. I honestly don’t know if you need shielded cable or not, but if in doubt, it won’t hurt anything to use shielded cable. Thanks for watching.
The bare ground wire from the breaker panel is connected to the “earth” grounding points on everything in the system (the toggle switch, the enclosure, 120v receptacle, VFD, and motor). The white “neutral” wire from the breaker panel is connected to the 120v receptacle. Hope this helps, and I hope it’s a long time before I leave.
When you ran power for the 110v receptacle, I see you just dragged a leg with the neutral and ground over to it and continued on to the vfd. I'm worried running power feed and dro might be too many amps to pull off the leg and still run the vfd. Did you ever have any problems running all on one leg?
Well I took your information and just outfitted my home shop mill with this same setup, just as you have it programmed. But I will be using a potentiometer for some rpm control. After setup I wasn't able to get above 30hz on my motor. Could only get 0-30hz on the potentiometer. After extensive guess work I found that it's critical that P072 needs to be set. For some reason P072 needs to be double the rated hz of the motor to get the full 60hz high range. Parameter 73 sets the base hz (if using a potentiometer) allows me to have a range from 30hz to 60hz on a potentiometer. Was modifying p072 relevant to your setup?
I didn't have to use PD072 for my setup, but I don't use the drive to control the speed, I just used it as a phase converter. I'm not sure what's going on with the 0-30hz issue unless it's something to do with parameters PD003, 004, and 005. PD005 is the max frequency limit, and for some reason, it has to be set first before setting PD003, or 004. Don't know if this would be an issue or not, but it sounds like you got it working. I may try to incorporate a POT on my setup and see what I can learn about setting it up to control speed.
@southerningenuity4458 I just found it strange. Even when the on board controls and potentiometer is disabled. (As it would be for mechanical rpm control) it Would only start and run at 30hz. I wonder if your factory setting for 72 is different then this one, mine is set from factory at 50hz. or if its simply some mathematical difference between a 2 or 4 pole winding as the culprit. My motor is electronically 2 speeds and i run it off the high speed 3430rpm winding and I believe you have a lower rpm winding. If thats the case and its the pole count doubling the hz for me, you may be able to get a bit more rpm out of your motor if you change your p072 to 60hz from 50.
I suppose it's possible that the pole number could have caused an issue. Did you set parameter PD143 to 2 or 4? Mine is set at 4 because it is a 1700 RPM motor. If you're using the 3430 RPM winding, try setting PD143 to 2 if you haven't already done so.
Sorry, basic question.. how do you know if a AC motor is 'synchronous' or 'asynchronous'? For example, I've got a small, low-speed, 3-phase (400hz) 110 ac motor. The rating on the label doesn't say much except that it's input power is 1.6A RMS Max. Reason I ask is that I'm looking for a portable power-supply and found a $75 "HKS VFD 0.75KW 1HP 110V 1 Phase Input 3 Phase 0-400HZ Output 10A" but it says in bold letters, "for ASYNCHRONOUS motors ONLY!" It also says it uses a 5V or 10V PWM control frequency. So I'm confused if this will work, or is there something better suited/cheaper like Vevor? All I need is to spin the motor, one direction, at a constant/default speed (no "PWM").. and turn it on/off from the panel (RS485 would be nice but not necessary).
That's a little beyond my level of expertise. I'm not going to pretend to know more than I do, so that's a question you should direct to someone who is more learned than I. I wouldn't want to give you any wrong information. Sorry I couldn't help, but thanks for watching!
Thanks for reminding me that my circuit breaker needs to be appropriately sized for the wiring. I looked at it, and it was extremely oversized. Dangerous.
Excuse me but want to know the " 1.73 " that u multiplied to the motor's current. what does it stand for ? I need an answer pls i'am in the same situation and i want to undeestand it.
If the VFD is being powered by single phase 240 volts, which is two, 120 volt lines (or "phases"), it has to generate a third phase to send to the motor for it to function correctly. The 1.73 takes into account the extra amperage across the two supply wires to provide the motor it's Full Load Amps across 3 phases. This is to make sure the drive will be able to handle the extra load without damaging the internal components. This link can probably explain it better than I can. Hope this helps, thanks for watching! www.precision-elec.com/derate-three-phase-vfd-for-single-phase-power/
Hello ~~ I am going to purchase this for 110v, 3 phase, 400hz output for aircraft. I have a question for you. Do I only need to input 110v for 110v output? Or is it converted to 110v even if I put in 220v?
If you bought one of these Huan Yang inverters you absolutely need to do two things if you want it to survive. 1) make damn sure you make up the ground wire on the inverter power terminal strip. I don't care if the case is plastic, the ground is to shunt electrical noise to ground. 2) most importantly, you need to connect properly sized MOVs from each leg to ground (150 volt MOVs) and from line to line (250 volt MOVs). The MOVs the factory installed are rated at 820 volts while the IGBT module is rated at 600 volts. This means a nearby lighting strike will destroy the IGBT module before the factory MOVs will ever begin to conduct. Oversizing (derating) these inverters is a GOOD idea as the bus filter capacitors are NOT the best quality and will fail soon.
There is a 14/3 wire (black, red, white, and ground) coming from the breaker panel into the toggle switch junction box. The bare ground wire is connected to all of the following components via wire nut splice connections: The toggle switch, 120v receptacle, VFD, enclosure cabinet, and motor. The black and red wires connect to the bottom terminals of the toggle switch. There is a 14/3 wire that connects the toggle switch to the VFD. It's black and red wires are connected to the top terminals of the toggle switch and then to the VFD at terminals R & S. It's white wire is capped off on both ends with a wire nut. There is a 14/2 wire (black, white, and ground) that powers the 120v receptacle. It's black wire is connected to one of the top terminals of the toggle switch and then to the receptacle. It's white wire is spliced to the 14/3 white wire (from the breaker panel) inside the toggle switch junction box and then connects to the receptacle. NOTE: The white wire that goes from the VFD to the motor is NOT a neutral wire. It is a "hot" power wire just like the black and red.
I would think so, if sized correctly. You must start and stop the motor via the drive itself by either the buttons on the front panel, or by an external switch (something like I have on my machine in the video). It's not recommended to put any switching device(s) between the motor and the power outputs on the drive. Thanks for watching!
The white wire from the breaker is not connected to the VFD. It is connected to the 120v receptacle on the bottom side of the enclosure. The VFD is powered by the red and black wires. It doesn't need a neutral wire to run on 240 volts. The 120v receptacle must have a neutral to operate correctly. Thanks for watching!
what is the reason to select a vfd 1.73x amps of the motor? i personally have a dilemma where the 240 from my panel is wired to my current single phase irrigation pump for 50a. the new 3 phase pump uses 36a. if the vfd needs to draw 62a im thinking i may need to dig up and upgrade wires.. unless i put the vfd at the panel then the draw would be like 36a to the pump.. can you do that or does it need to be at the motor?
I'm not sure of all the specifics of how a VFD works, but basically, the 1.73 calculation is for adequately sizing the VFD when converting single phase into 3 phase. (According to what I found while researching for my project) I'm sure there are some higher end VFDs out there that would not require this, but for the cheap ones like I used, it was recommended to oversize the drive. If you're using a cheaper unit like I did, you should be able to put the VFD near the panel and use properly sized wires to connect it to the breaker. You'll need at least 3 insulated wires and an earth ground wire between the VFD and the motor. There are wire sizing charts online that you can reference for proper wire sizing for a 3 phase motor based on it's amp rating. There are also factors to keep in mind when there is a long distance between the VFD and the motor, but my knowledge in this area is limited, so you'll probably want to do some research on that. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
@@southerningenuity4458 thanks. it is about 150 ft and so there may be some issues with that. i think im going to build a rotary converter and just add one more 50a wire in the trench to run the 36a pump. if the pump is too big then ill go smaller and the wiring is overkill. its cheaper to downsize the pump than try to use a vfd to regulate the pump motor.. and that way having a converter by the panel will allow me to use shorter 3awg wire and let me other 3 phase motors in that shop if i want in the future.. thanks for the reply
To start/stop the motor in either forward or reverse, all that is needed is a single pole double throw (SPDT) toggle switch. Connect the common terminal of the switch to the DCM port on the VFD. (Time 8:20 in the video) Connect the forward port (FOR) on the VFD to one of the remaining terminals on the switch and connect the reverse (REV) port to the other terminal. This should allow you to flip the switch one way to start the motor in forward, and flip it the opposite way for reverse. To control the speed with a potentiometer, reference the video linked in the description of this video. Thanks for watching!
I don't know if that is possible or not. When I turn on the power switch, it takes it a few seconds to "boot up" (like a computer) and then the fan comes on. But just out of curiosity, why would you want to do that? Is it for ease of installation, to not have to wire up an on/off switch?
The 3 phase motor is for the water pump on a parts washer. There was an add a phase wired into the supply to the motor. It burned up and I am replacing it with the VFD. The parts washer runs on a timer. I am looking for the simplest way to wire it, and I am wondering if installing a jumper between DCM and FWD would start the VFD in forward when it was powered up (without damaging the drive). Thanks for the reply.
I honestly don't know for sure if that would damage the drive or not. You may have to consult with the manufacturer to find out for sure. But, if you had 2 timers, (or a programmable one with multiple channels) and one turns on the drive and then a minute or so later the other connects the DCM /forward terminals, that would probably work. Then to shut down, have the second timer disconnect the DCM/Forward connection and a minute later the first timer turns off the drive. This may not be a "simple" wiring scheme, but it should function like you want without damaging the VFD. Hope this helps. Let me know how it turns out!
I'm not an electrical expert, so this may not be "technically" correct or "proper" electrical code. But basically, in normal household wiring (in the USA), a 220v circuit does not need a neutral to function correctly, but a 120v circuit does. The white wire from my breaker panel is not connected to the VFD. It is connected to the 120v outlet in the bottom of the VFD cabinet. (Both the 120v and 220v circuits must have the earth ground for safety reasons.) I used the 14-3 wire so I could supply everything associated with the milling machine with just 1 double pole breaker, and only have to run 1 wire. This saved time and money. The toggle switch on the side of the VFD cabinet is double pole. The red and black wires come from the breaker panel and connect to the bottom side of the switch. They continue on, from the top of the switch, to the VFD. I connected an additional black wire to one of the top side terminals of the switch and ran it to the 120v outlet. So, when I turn the switch on, 220v goes to the VFD and 120v goes to the outlet. I needed 3 insulated wires to run the 3 phase motor, so the 14-3 wire was also used to connect the motor to the VFD. These wires probably should have been color coded yellow, orange and brown because it's a 3 phase circuit, but I had enough of the 14-3 wire left over, so I used it instead. Hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
@@southerningenuity4458 If you automatically assume you need a 5 hp VFD for a 2.5 HP motor, you are effectively underrating the VFD. Soft start your motor with the built-in programming option, and a VFD suitable for a 2.5 HP motor will work just fine.
The video is intended to give information concerning the Huanyang "HY" series drives. If your drive is another brand or series, the information may not be relevant. However, if it is one of the models listed in the video description, it should except single phase input on terminals "R" and "S", and output 3 phase on terminals "U", "V", and "W". The description also lists the parameters that will need to be programmed and an explanation on how to do the programming. Wiring and programming are covered in the video starting at time frame 06:45. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
I'm not sure if the particular VFD I used in the video would be suitable or not. There would be factors to consider given the starting loads and currents associated with air compressors. But it should possible if the VFD is properly sized. (Please consult a qualified electrical professional.) There would also be the issue of starting and stopping the motor based on the pressure in the tank. It's not recommended to install switching devices between the VFD and the motor. You would have to connect the motor leads directly to the VFD and start/stop the motor via the low voltage control circuits on the drive. This could be done by removing all line power from the contacts on the pressure switch and use the pressure switch to activate the control circuit. Thanks for watching! www.phaseconverterinfo.com/phaseconverter_app_aircompressors.htm
Sorry, but my knowledge is pretty much limited to what was covered in the video. I don't want to tell you something wrong, so you'll need to ask someone more qualified than me. Thanks for watching!
Congratulations you are the first person I have found that explains how to programme one of these inverters to run using a standard motor rather than a spindle variety. Thank you ever so much!
I hope it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
Southern Genius to figure out all the codes. I have a VFD and it's the same model you explained. It drove me crazy trying to figure it out. I watched this video, and the gray area came together for me. I'm running my 1960 13" South Bend Lathe on this VFD. I need to wire in the switch now that you explained it. I appreciate what you did to put this together and you did a great job explaining it. I agree that it was done very professionally, thank you. Nothing better than living in the South.
Wow! Thank you for such a kind comment. I’m so glad it was helpful for you. I was in the same situation as you when I first started. I had to watch a ton of videos, read a bunch of forums and talk to the electronics guys where I work before I got it figured out. Thanks for watching!
Can I ask what size motor you are using?
Thanks for the video, I was able to get a 3-phase jump saw working using the 5HP HY VFD. I was even able to wire up the old momentary start/stop switches and emergency stop by programming the three communication ports to correspond to the Run, Stop, and Emergency commands. What's great is the VFD will be able to function with either an "NO" or "NC" momentary switch, and it works the same with either style. The saw was previously in a 460v factory directly wired to the industrial 3-phase supply, so instead I re-wired the motor to the low voltage 230v configuration and hooked the motor directly up to the VFD, bypassing the old relay and fuse setup that the saw came with. The VFDs are really awesome, having all the switching built into the unit is great, but it's even better that it has the com ports that are programmable to like 30 different functions you can control with external switches. In my case I only needed start/stop/emergency because it's just a jump saw. I did set my PD014/15 acceleration time to 10s because the saw blade is 14" and I'm hoping the longer time is easier on the motor and belt.
By the way, to anybody wondering if they can power a 230v motor when the documentation says the VFD is 220v, you certainly can! Just make sure you set your Pd008 to 230, and make sure that your input voltage is 230v or higher on the lines as measured at the VFD, because the VFD can't step up your voltage, but it can transform down if it needs to, for example if you have 240v at your panel like I did. Also, I used stranded copper 14AWG for the communication wires which may have been overkill but they did fit well, and I used solid copper 10AWG for the power supply and motor supply wires, which were a tight fit. Granted my motor is only rated for 12A, but 10AWG is what I had on hand and it worked.
Well said. I’m glad it worked well for you. Thanks for watching!
man you helped me greatly i added a much larger lathe 25x80 and was about to upgrade my phase converter that i built when I watch this video I decided to purchase a huanyang GT 20HP first one arrived beat to crap thank you delivery company emailed company and they had a new one in 4 days they said 4 days and unlike most company's they kept their word hooked it up codes are different than yours but it is awesome from one Southern Boy to another Thanks alot
Thank you sir, I'm glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
Really appreciate you taking the time to put out this video. Just bought one of these after my very simple Baldor VFD shit the bed on my 1966 Bport after 25 years. Tried deciphering the manual till my head was ready to explode. Gonna finish wiring it up tonight and follow your steps in programming and hope I don't let the smoke out! Tks again.
Thanks! Let me know how it turns out.
@@southerningenuity4458 worked like a champ..the old mill is active again! Thanks again for your video. I tried setting it to use the pot on the front for speed control but couldnt get the full range. It pegged out at like 42 cycles if I remember correctly..I put it back to use the keypad.
Double check your setting for parameter PD005(max frequency). If your motor is 60hz, make sure PD005 is set at 60. For some reason, (I’m not sure why) you have to program PD005 before you program PD003 or PD004. Hope this helps.
@@southerningenuity4458 thanks..I just got done with a waiting job...I thought I did it according to your instructions..ill reset and try again...thank you! Hope these chicom drives last...the fan is quite noisey I noticed...cant hear it over the radio and the mill running tho!
You did a great job on this video. Thank you for all the hard work in putting this together. Professional and slick.
Thank you sir!
I was about ready to throw it against the wall, so happy I found this video. You rock.
Wow, thanks! I'm glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
I hope you’re a comprehensive husband then 😂😂😂
@@1conu593 huh?
@@Avataranian in case he didn’t understand his wife
@@1conu593 Are we speaking English
Very helpful, thanks for posting this for those who are not familiar with this process!
I’m glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
This video is thorough and well done. I appreciate the indexing and VFD programming chart!
I’m glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
Hey, your info was key to programing my HY inverter. I have the same mill and model inverter so it was easy as jotting the parameters down and run out to the machine to punch them in. It was literally running in minutes. Thank you so much!!
I’m glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for such a step by step video. Excellent information.
I'm glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
Already this video is incredibly helpful!!! Thank you so much. Not too many ppl on the west coast have info or knowledge on phase conversion or powering manual mills. 🙏🙏🙏
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
This is an excellent video, I'm trying to replace a fried VFD on our power hammer motor and reading the manual was painful. This gives me something to work on this weekend.
Thank you! Hope you get it straightened out. Let me know how it goes.
@@southerningenuity4458 I definitely will.
Excellent content, pace, level of detail. Went through a lot of videos to get to this one! Thanks!
Thank you, and thanks for watching!
So glad I found this video. I found a couple of WWII motors that are 3 phase at 110v. I was a bit concerned that I would not be able to run them (not sure what I am going to use them for, but they were cheap). I may set one up as a belt sander motor.
Awesome! Let me know how it turns out. Thanks for watching!
Great info- straight to the point!
I'm glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
Very good video. It explains the connections to and the programming of the VFD very well. The manual might as well have been written in Swaheli.
Thank you. I'm glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
Very helpful having the codes explained l.
Thanks for watching!
You video, knowledge, and presentation are as good as your Country Accent. I loved it. Thank you for very informative upload. I liked it. One of the Best on TH-cam. Thanks for sharing.
Wow, thank you! Thanks for watching!
Hello! Thanks for a great video! My inverter was working perfectly but now when i turn it on, it goes straight to error01? I press the stop/rest butter and flicks straight to the error again. Ive got the 9100-1t3-00750G 9600 series 7.5kw 220v to 380v. Massive appreciate any help!
Sorry , but my knowledge in this area is limited. I can’t speak to much more than what was covered in the video. It was a learning experience for me as I was working on my project, and I wanted to share what I learned, so I made the video. I wouldn’t want to give you any incorrect advice, so you’ll have to ask someone smarter than me. Sorry I couldn’t help, but thanks for watching.
Great video sir! I seen a Bridgeport on marketplace for cheap and had to have it. Its still wired for high voltage from who knows when and where but I'm going to give it a go! Thanks for clearing up the process!
Awesome! Let me know how it goes. Thanks for watching!
FYI - They do in-fact sell drives that can step up voltage. I'm currently programming a HE100-T3S-7R5G and it is 1ph 220V Input and 17A 3ph 380V -Great video tho, lot of helpful info.
Thanks! I'll keep that in mind if have another motor that wont run on 240v. Thanks for watching!
Excellent job, clear and precise, well done
Thank you!
Awesome video, showed exactly how to do what I was wanting to do with very good explanations!
Thank you!
I'm glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
You don’t know how long I’ve been looking for this video, I’ve became a homegrown DevOps engineer all because of a couple of questions I just couldn’t answer myself. One of those questions was… which way to I face a 2-phase to 3-phase converter? Although it sounds obvious now. I could have used you about 2 years ago!
I’m glad it was helpful for you. Thanks for watching!
Thanks again for this great video. I got the same unit and set it up as per your instruction, but for some reason the unit only ramp up 25 HZ when on-board pot is all the way up.
I'm running a 208-volt 3 phase ,1750 rpm motor for an exhaust fan. I set it for 4 poles per the chart. any ideas would be appreciated.
Check parameter PD072. Several others have had a similar issue and PD072 had to be adjusted. It controls the upper limit for your HZ when using a pot for speed control. PD073 will set the lower limit. So for example, if you wanted the motor to run at 20hz with the pot turned all the way down, and at 60hz with it turned all the way up, then set PD072 to 60 and PD073 to 20. Hope this helps.
One thing that is looked down upon when putting VFD's on motors is the insulation class of the motor. If the insulation class is for example a B class then the motor could fail prematurely due to the high voltage spikes the vfd outputs. I always make sure the insulation class on the motor is F or greater. another thing to consider is those cheesiness drives typically don't have the heat syncs exposed, and that's important because VFD generate a lot of EMC and it will in term destroy the bearings in the motor if the motor isnt grounded properly to the heat syncs
That’s good information to know. Thanks!
great explanations...great video..
Thank you!
Great video, thanks for all the work you put into creating it. My 3 phase compressor works like a charm on single phase.
Great to hear! Thanks for watching!
Very good I had to figure this a few years back with a click plc and rs485 fairly easy
Thank you sir, and thanks for watching!
You really know how to explain things THANKS
Thank you, I hope it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
Thanks Gomer Pyle!
Shazam! Thanks for watching!
@@southerningenuity4458 Jokes aside, this was a very helpful video. Thanks for making it
@@Dev_Everything Thank you!
Definitely a great video for the world thank you so much!
Thank you sir! Thanks for watching!
Great video, thank you! I'm wondering if it will have to be reprogramed if power is lost...also, I'm using it in a barn to run a fan in summertime, it will be off all winter. Will the unit be damaged when sitting through winter in cold ambient? Thanks again.
The unit does not have to be reprogrammed after power loss. I turn mine off every time i leave the shop and it works fine after turning the power back on. I would take measures to protect the unit from moisture, dust, and critters. Not sure how the cold in a barn would affect it. Thanks for watching!
@@southerningenuity4458 thank you for that information. That is helpful. I just ordered mine yesterday thanks to this video
@@willpartin622 Let me know how it turns out.
@@southerningenuity4458 Thanks again for this great video. I got the same unit and set it up as per your instruction, but for some reason the unit only ramp up 25 HZ when on-board pot is all the way up.
I'm running a 208-volt 3 phase ,1750 rpm motor for an exhaust fan. I set it for 4 poles per the chart. any ideas would be appreciated.
Excellent video! Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
Very informative. I really appreciate the video!
I'm glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
Very good detailed explanations. I was stuck on the amps x 1.73 bit too. Also if my house is 240v 10amp common AC electricity do i get a VFD with 10amp input and 15 amp output? First i ordered the 7.5amp input and the 10 amp output. My motor is rated 3.7 amp about. Side Note: The VFD look the same as the VEVOR ones being sold by VEVOR and on AliExpress as well, i hope these instructions turn out to be the same to follow.
The reason for multiplying the Full Load Amps by 1.73 is to make sure that the drive's internal components will be able to handle the load demanded from the 3 phase motor that is being supplied from a single phase source. This is because the drive itself is being supplied by only 2 lines of single phase power that it must then turn into 3 lines of 3 phase power for the motor. This is called "de-rating" the drive, or "oversizing" the drive. So, if your 240v 3 phase motor has a full load amp rating of 3.7, then multiply the 3.7 amps times 1.73, which gives you 6.4 amps. Your drive should have a rated output of 6.4 amps or more to adequately supply the motor when it is pulling it's full amp rating.
Keep in mind, the 1.73 rule should work for pretty much any brand of VFD when being used for converting the single phase power into 3 phase. Oversizing the drive won't hurt the motor. I can't speak to the program parameters for other brands of drives, as this is the only one I've ever used. They may or may not be the same. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
Ok thanks for explaining that. I get that bit clearer now. Seems I should of kept the 7.5amp input and 10amp output VFD drive, would been about right.
What i was curious about particularly was if my mains regular house electricity is 240v 10amp supply to the VFD was over its rated input of 7.5amps is that too much for the VFD.
To make sure I understand the question, do you mean: "Will a 240v, 10 amp breaker be too much for a VFD that has a rated output of 7.5 amps?" If this is what you're asking, then no. The VFD should only pull as much current as it needs, up to its rated output. The 10 amp breaker will supply up to 10 amps if needed, but if the circuit draws more than 10 amps, the breaker should trip to prevent damage or overloading the wiring that could cause a fire.
@@southerningenuity4458 You got it. Yep, thats what i was curious about. Arrrr so the VFD only draws as much as it needs being 7.5amps in this case. I was thinking because my house supply electricity is 10amps it would break the VFD or something. Sorry for confusion, i just don't know how electricity gadgets work that well.
What I've ascertained from you answers is i made a mistake even sending the VFD i purchased back for a return, i never even received it i just asked for a return before it was posted and it would have worked, but i will buy a bigger one if reordering as i heard you say and have read before that it doesn't hurt if rated for more amps for also if i get a bigger 3 phase motor in future it will be future prove for that too.
This current motor being an induction motor 3 phase and 1400 RPM and 1HP or so and i hope to get 2300 RPM at full throttle for 1000 counts (revolutions) the motor may not have enough torque to spin the VE Type Injector Pump that fast . Its a test bench diesel pumps i am diy building.
@@jaffasoft8976 I'm glad I could help. Let me know how your project turns out.
Thank you this has been very extremely helpful.
Thank you. I’m glad it was helpful.
Outstanding!
Thank you!
12/15/23 I have the Huanyang VFD went to hook up the speed control pod book tell use V1 AGM and VR I found the V1 and AGM but where is the VR? any thought or help would be nice. BTW Nice Video Mike E.
If I’m understanding the question correctly, you’re wanting to use a potentiometer to control the speed of the motor. If so, there is a jumper on the drive near the control circuit terminals. It will need to be positioned on either the VI or VR side depending on whether you’re using an external potentiometer or the onboard potentiometer. Rewatch starting at time frame 11:00 minutes for the visual and explanation. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Howdy again, ordered a VFD, for my 2 HP 3 Phase motor that FLA is 5.22. in your video you said that you ordered one a little under what you needed as to the VFD and looking at the chart you said the the Bridgeport is 60 Hz, but you showed the 50 Hz VFD HY02D223B Did I miss something.? I ordered the Genesis 27 D, didn't want to go that expensive but no worries now. Thanks again, 👍👍👍👍
From what I could find online, the HY series drives from Haunyang should be able to accept input frequencies ranging from 47hz to 63hz and deliver output frequencies from 0.10hz to 400.00hz. After I learned about the calculation for sizing the VFD, I realized that mine was slightly under rated for my 2HP motor. This shouldn't be a major issue unless I put a really heavy load on the motor that would require it to use the full 2HP. If that were to occur, the motor would pull more amps than the drive is rated to deliver, and thus potentially cause the drive to overheat, fault out, or fail. The motor on my Bridgeport can operate at either 50hz or 60hz with no problems. The RPM will be less when operated at 50hz (1430 RPM) vs operating at 60hz (1700 RPM) according to the nameplate. It would also require slightly more amps to produce the rated 2HP when operated at 50hz (6.8 amps) vs 60hz (6.5 amps). I have my drive set to operate the motor at 60hz all the time. Hope this helps!
Great presentation. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Well done sir 👍
Thank you!
Vfd have a over current function up to 150% for 60 sec of the max amp they’re rated for, that’s why you don’t have any issues with yours, your motor needs the full power only at startup to brake inertia or resistance for a compressor for example pretty smart that little thing
That’s good information to know. Thanks, and thanks for watching!
Very good video thank you for your showing your precious knowledge !
Thank you, I'm glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching!
Did Chop sticks come with the drive or did u have to purchase them separately?? AB wojodneve been better in my opinion but threat is just my preference as Inwirk with them daily. Anyways good video and electrical work if you’re not an electrician.
I never could figure out how to use chop sticks, so I opted for the unit that came with 2 fortune cookies instead. Thanks for watching!
Great video. I have a 3hp 3ph spindle Moulder that I’d like to run on single ph.
The machine also has a seperate 3ph power feed unit .75hp. Is it possible to run both on the same VFD? If so how would I achieve this, wiring etc.
I'm not an expert with these things, but my first thought is you would need 2 VFDs to do that. The power feed would most likely be started and stopped independently from the spindle, and would thus need its own VFD. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
@@southerningenuity4458 agree the more I thought about it. Thanks for prompt reply.
I don't believe that you need to multiply the FLA on the motor by 1.73 to figure the amperage draw of the motor. The term Full Load Amps is already the draw of the motor for the input of the three varying legs. The FLA is taken from Tables in the NEC 430-150 for overcurrent protection and thusly the conductor size. This number is then multiplied by a minimum of 125% to allow for inrush of the motor starting but can be increased to a larger percent allowed by the NEC if it won't start. The manufacturer may indicate a maximum overcurrent protection device specific to the unit model. What you've done should work it may not have the best over current protection.
I probably could have explained it a little better in the video, but multiplying the FLA by 1.73 isn't to figure the amp draw of the motor, it's for identifying the proper size drive that will be needed. The VFD is using 2 input legs (phases) to create 3 output legs (phases). Concentrating the same required motor amperage (FLA) on the two input phases instead of three can cause the VFD’s input diodes to fail. Therefore over sizing the drive is recommended. I searched and read information from numerous web sights trying to understand this myself. Some recommended doubling the size, but most used the 1.73 figure. Thanks for the input and thanks for watching!
Yes. More clarity on this needed as it is the most important part of the video
The 1.73 multiplier is a current conversion from three phase to single phase. Once you get the current value for the motor using the 1.73 multiplier, you still have to multiply that value by 125% to size the circuit correctly.
You did a great job with this Video! My only problem is that my Motor is running on half RPM and hrz that it should run, eben though i have set the right parameter.
Not exactly sure what is causing that, but double check parameters PD003, 004, and 005. PD005 is the max frequency (Hz) and has to be set first before the other two. Also, make sure the correct pole number was entered for PD143. Another viewer had the same issue with his motor and he had to adjust parameter PD072. Look at the previous comments on this video to see where he and I discussed the issue. Let me know what you find out. Thanks for watching!
I have not found the issue yet but if I set PD002 on 0 ist works. Now my only Problem that i can‘t adjust the speed with the poti.
@@timo_str3359 Setting PD002 to 0 means that the speed will be controlled by the arrow buttons on the front of the VFD. So did you mean that you can adjust the speed with the arrow buttons?
PD002 needs to be set to 1 to control speed via potentiometer (onboard or external). Be sure to set the jumper to the correct position (either "VI" or "VR" ) if you haven't already.
Check out this video. This guy has his drill press running on one of these drives and he has his set up with a pot for speed control. th-cam.com/video/0_nHzpN2xyI/w-d-xo.html
I went out to my shop and experimented with a potentiometer on my setup. I set the jumper to "VI" and PD002 to 1, I found that the max Hz I could get was 50. That's because PD072 factory setting is 50. I changed it to 60. That gave me 60 Hz when the pot was at the lowest resistance setting. PD073 will set the lower Hz limit for when the pot is at its highest resistance setting. Factory setting is 0. I set it to 20. These 2 parameters gave me a Hz range from 20 to 60 when using the pot for speed control.
Hey.... Found this video so inspiring I went out and got myself a 220v 3ph table saw.... It's a slightly different brand vfd, but everything else lines up.... I entered all the same parameters as you had, it ran for a second then shut off stating an 'overcurrent during running' error... Now it won't spin the motor and gives that error right away, even when the motor is disconnected..... I only have so much hair left to pull out..... Any thoughts?
I'm not an electrical expert, my knowledge with these VFDs is limited to not much more than what was covered in the video. That being said, here are a few things to try/check.
Make sure the drive is sized correctly using the calculation in the video.
Make sure to use the start/stop buttons on the front of the panel, or external switch attached to the control circuit terminals to start the motor. (Don't use a switch between the VFD and the motor)
Experiment with the acceleration/deceleration times. You may need a longer acceleration time to avoid the over current. You may need a longer deceleration time too once you get it going. If I have my milling machine running at a really high RPM and shut it off, the momentum in the spindle will cause it to error out.
Hope this helps. If not then you'll need to consult someone more qualified than I. Thanks for watching, and let me know how it turns out.
Very good video, now that all I wanted to do is find a VFD variable speed drive for a 2" belt sander, I really confused, have a 2HP motor to purchase but they don't list all the info on it. Want it to be 3 phase motor and convert my 220 single phase to 3 phase to run the motor. But sure found out some very important info here. Any ideas be sure to let me know👍👍👍👍
I’m glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching.
Excellent video thank you I understood everything and that’s unusual for me Lol.
I’m glad you liked it. Thanks for watching!
Do you know if a vfd would work on a bridge crane with 4 motors drawing 15amps of all functions.
Motors are 3 phase at 480V
2 motors at 2.5 amps.
2 motors at 4.5 amps.
I’ve heard that I may have to get a rotary phase converter due to hard start load due to lifting.
I'm sure it can be done, however, I don't know enough about it to give sufficient advice. Gonna have to defer that one to someone else. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for your video. I'm in exactly the same spot (i.e. a Bridgeport mill with a 575v motor). Just curious what motor you swapped onto the mill? Size and specs would be a helpful guide for me. Thank again.
I purchased another motor on EBay with the same frame (145TY-4). It’s an older motor labeled to be able to run on 200 or 400 volts at either 50 or 60 hertz. It’s 2 HP and operates at 1700rpm. Even though it was labeled as being wired for 208 volts, I made sure to check and verify the wiring. Thanks for watching!
Great video. Quick question: Where did you plug the neutral and ground that’s coming from the breaker to the input side of the VFD?
Also how did you get 220v from the breaker, isn’t the circuit breaker 240v?
The neutral is not connected to the VFD. The VFD can run without the neutral as long as the red and black wires are connected as shown and the earth ground is connected to the VFD as shown. The neutral is connected to the 110v outlet on the bottom of the cabinet so I can run my DRO and power feed. The earth ground is connected to all parts in the cabinet (toggle switch, 110v outlet, the VFD, and the cabinet itself, and the motor casing.) The 110v outlet is supplied by the black wire on one side of the double pole toggle switch. (basically using 110v of the 220v from the breaker panel.)
220v and 240v are basically the same on residential power. You can safely supply something labeled as 220v with the 240v breaker as long as the amp rating of the breaker is not higher than the amp rating of the wire(s) it supplies.
@@southerningenuity4458 thank you so much. Very informative. So both of the ground cables are going through the VFD. The one coming from the breaker and the one going to the machine are connected to the same ground terminal. For the neutral cable do we need to make the 110 outlet at the bottom to use it. like is the outlet necessary? Again thank you so much for the effort you put into this I appreciate it
Yes, the bare wire from the breaker panel is connected to the VFD and the machine. The neutral wire (white wire) isn't necessary to run the VFD. The VFD can run with just the 2 power wires and the earth ground. I just used a neutral wire so I could put a 110v outlet in the bottom of my cabinet.
Can you use one of these VFDs to run a 3 phase appliance, like a cooker or heatpump?
I'm not an electrical expert, but my first thought would be, yes, if configured correctly. It would probably require more than what I covered in the video, especially with the heat pump cycling on and off, and the cooker varying temperatures. But, I just can't say for certain, so you its probably best to seek advice from someone more experienced with those types of applications. Thanks for watching!
Great content and well explained. I just bought a used lathe that runs on 220 volt, 3-phase power. The inverter is a great idea but I just ran into a snag. The motor I have is a 2-speed motor. Is your motor a single or two speed? I can't find anything on using a VFD with a duel speed motor and the manufacture isn't answering my questions. What got my attention was you going through the programming. I noticed you had to enter the number of poles. With a two speed motor, the poles change depending on which speed you are using. Any insight on this?
My knowledge in this area is limited. The content in the video is based on what I learned during my project, so I can’t speak with certainty on some of the broader subject matter questions. So, I don’t know for sure the best way to handle the issue of a two-speed motor (my motor is single speed), but you may be able to connect the VFD to the motor’s high-speed wiring configuration and run it at high-speed RPM as normal. When the low speed is required, use the VFD’s potentiometer to adjust the frequency so the motor runs at the low-speed RPM. (or vice versa) Just make sure the VFD is programmed with the correct pole number based on which wiring configuration you use. Let me know how it turns out! Thanks for watching!
@@southerningenuity4458 Thanks for the quick response. We are on the same page as far as the best way to use a VFD on a duel speed motor. I just need to decide if I want to go with one of these cheap Chinese made VFD or pull the trigger on decent rotary phase converter. $169 vs. $1100 is a big difference in price. Like worth taking a chance on the VFD knowing that if it doesn't work, I'll need the rotary phase converted.
Can use a generator to run a VFD device? I have a 10kw motor.
In short, yes, but there are factors to be considered for correct operation. I searched and found many articles on google regarding this, but I’m not familiar enough with it to give proper advice. Thanks for watching!
@@southerningenuity4458 Thanks very much, for my 10kw 3 phases motor what VFD would be sufficient?
Great video, thank you
Thanks for watching!
thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Great video. I need a vfd for my used rotary car lift but was not sure how to wire it. Do you think the parameters you went over is all I need for the lift. It's just a small hydraulic motor. I just want something to be simple for once. Lol
Thanks! It should work if all you need it to do is run a 3 phase electric motor from a single phase source with no need to control the speed of the motor. That's assuming it is one of the Huanyang drives with identical parameter functions. I have no experience with any other brand of drive as of now. Be careful, and thanks for watching!
I couldn't find the one you mentioned on Amazon. What is the hp and kw on the one you showed and do you have a link for it? Thanks
The one I used is 2.2kW (about 3HP) model # HY02D223B, but it was slightly under rated for my motor. Be sure to use the calculation mentioned in the video to find the correct size drive for your motor. (Time frame in the video is 3:50 to 5:50). Below is a link to the one that I bought.
(I don't receive any compensation from anyone to promote or endorse any products.)
www.amazon.com/Variable-Frequency-Inverter-Converter-HUANYANG/dp/B0775S7KFW/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=KQ0CR89ITM5B&keywords=huanyang%2Bhy%2Bvfd&qid=1676253027&sprefix=huanyang%2BHY%2Caps%2C116&sr=8-1-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFMV0VNNkNHOTZEWjEmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA3OTUwNTYyMUk3SUc4WE41TEIwJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA2NjIzMTkzQ0M0MUxGMEc2TTRRJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1
Damn good video
Thanks for watching!
Hey brother I got a question about why you hooked your manual on/off switch up through the control circuit terminal on the drive? Could you have just left it the way it was wired and still used the switch? Or does it HAVE to be wired through the vfd now? Reason I’m asking is because I have blown a few of these trying to get it working correctly and I have not tried it as you did? Thanks for any help brother
The manual says not to use any kind of switching device/circuit breaker between the VFD and the motor. I think it can damage the VFD if it's wired that way. I just used the old switch because it was already located in a convenient location and I could still wire it in a way that allowed forward or reverse operation. The VFD's common terminal sends a low voltage to the switch. Activating the switch directs that voltage to either the "forward" or "reverse" terminal, and the VFD then sends power to the motor accordingly. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the reply. I am also hooking up a mill
Like you. It’s a tawianese Bridgeport copy. I just had the motor rebuilt and is brand new. So… I guess I missed where in the manual Is says not to hook the switch between the motor and vfd. My switch is also forward/reverse. I’ve honestly never used a mill in reverse but it’s there. I’m thinking I should try it wiring like yours is(IE, switch to vfd then to motor), not vfd to switch to motor. Is there a way you could
Call me so I can pick your brain for a min? Thanks again brother
I’m curious, since my home has 3 phase and I wanna go off grid using solar, is it possible to use my 5kw inverter which outputs a single phase , hook it up to a vfd which will be also 5 kw and feed 3 phase to the mains to run my house ?
I honestly don't know the answer to that question. I suppose it could be possible with the right setup, but now you have me curious. Why does your home need 3 phase instead of single phase?
I have a metal muncher and a band saw I want to run with a vfd can I do this off of a single vfd or would I have to reprogram every time I change machines? Thanks for any advice!
It might be possible to do that if you're just using it as a phase converter. The motors on both machines would have to have the same parameters (voltage, RPM, frequency, and poles). You would also need to consider whether or not you would need to run one of them in reverse. You wouldn't want to accidentally start one in reverse if it's not meant to run in reverse, but this could probably be prevented with some creative start/stop control wiring. The drive and supply wire would need to be sized to accommodate the motor with the highest full load amp rating. You would need a properly rated triple pole/double throw switch to direct the power to the desired machine. (This switch should only be actuated when the drive is OFF to prevent damaging the drive.) There are probably other things (that I can't currently think of) that should be considered as well, so you would definitely need to research it further and consult someone more qualified than me. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
@@southerningenuity4458 yes this does help and I have considered some of the things that you mentioned!
So if I’m reading and watching all this correctly. This drive converts the voltage from 240 to 208 (what your motor is ) to a three phase set up? So if I had 240 volt 3 phase motor, and 240 volt single phase power, this would make it 240 volt 3 phase?
That’s correct. But be sure to correctly size the drive for your motor. I can only speak to the particular kind of drive that I used, but everything I found about them said it’s best to oversize (or some call it “de-rate”) the drive to be sure the internal components can handle the differences associated with converting the 2 lines of single phase power into 3 lines of 3 phase power. (That’s the part of the video where I talk about multiplying the FLA by 1.73.) Thanks for watching!
@@southerningenuity4458 thanks for the help. This would be running a small variable speed grinder. I’ve looked for single phase variable drives and while they have them, you loose torque at low speed, which is why I want a 3 phase. Appreciate the guidance and your time in replying 👍
👍@@tattoosteveneo
Great video but why didn't you install a 575 transformer?
I don't have 3 phase power in my shop to run a 3 phase transformer. I consulted the electrical gurus where I work about possibly buying a phase converter and then running it through a transformer to the motor. They said that wouldn't be a good idea. After some research and more guru consultation we decided it would be better to just buy another motor and run it with the VFD. Thanks for watching!
i just order new VFD and 2,2KW spindle, i need know what cable i need 230V 1-phase wall socket to VFD cable AWG and fuse size 16Amp maybe need, and VFD to spindle cable 3 phase+ground. shield or not ? power to wall have 230V 16Amp, VDF is 2,2KW 220V in 1-phase, 220V out 3-phase. spindle 3.phase 2,2KW motor. need know cable size, power cable need be 13AWG because supply have 220C/16A, but what need be VFD to spindle motor ? 3-phase 2.2KW motor.
Hello, I’m not sure I fully understand your question. But, just be sure to find the “full load amp” (FLA) rating for your spindle and multiply it by 1.73. Use this value to determine proper AWG and breaker to supply the VFD. (12AWG is suitable for up to 20 amps.) The same AWG should work for connecting the spindle to the VFD. I honestly don’t know if you need shielded cable or not, but if in doubt, it won’t hurt anything to use shielded cable. Thanks for watching.
Good info. Thank you.
I'm glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
You Sir...are going straight to heaven but before you leave us...what did you do with the ground coming from your 220v to the VFD?
The bare ground wire from the breaker panel is connected to the “earth” grounding points on everything in the system (the toggle switch, the enclosure, 120v receptacle, VFD, and motor). The white “neutral” wire from the breaker panel is connected to the 120v receptacle. Hope this helps, and I hope it’s a long time before I leave.
When you ran power for the 110v receptacle, I see you just dragged a leg with the neutral and ground over to it and continued on to the vfd. I'm worried running power feed and dro might be too many amps to pull off the leg and still run the vfd. Did you ever have any problems running all on one leg?
So far I haven’t had any issues with mine. Thanks for watching!
Well I took your information and just outfitted my home shop mill with this same setup, just as you have it programmed. But I will be using a potentiometer for some rpm control. After setup I wasn't able to get above 30hz on my motor. Could only get 0-30hz on the potentiometer. After extensive guess work I found that it's critical that P072 needs to be set. For some reason P072 needs to be double the rated hz of the motor to get the full 60hz high range. Parameter 73 sets the base hz (if using a potentiometer) allows me to have a range from 30hz to 60hz on a potentiometer. Was modifying p072 relevant to your setup?
I didn't have to use PD072 for my setup, but I don't use the drive to control the speed, I just used it as a phase converter. I'm not sure what's going on with the 0-30hz issue unless it's something to do with parameters PD003, 004, and 005. PD005 is the max frequency limit, and for some reason, it has to be set first before setting PD003, or 004. Don't know if this would be an issue or not, but it sounds like you got it working. I may try to incorporate a POT on my setup and see what I can learn about setting it up to control speed.
@southerningenuity4458 I just found it strange. Even when the on board controls and potentiometer is disabled. (As it would be for mechanical rpm control) it Would only start and run at 30hz. I wonder if your factory setting for 72 is different then this one, mine is set from factory at 50hz. or if its simply some mathematical difference between a 2 or 4 pole winding as the culprit. My motor is electronically 2 speeds and i run it off the high speed 3430rpm winding and I believe you have a lower rpm winding. If thats the case and its the pole count doubling the hz for me, you may be able to get a bit more rpm out of your motor if you change your p072 to 60hz from 50.
I suppose it's possible that the pole number could have caused an issue. Did you set parameter PD143 to 2 or 4? Mine is set at 4 because it is a 1700 RPM motor. If you're using the 3430 RPM winding, try setting PD143 to 2 if you haven't already done so.
Sorry, basic question.. how do you know if a AC motor is 'synchronous' or 'asynchronous'? For example, I've got a small, low-speed, 3-phase (400hz) 110 ac motor. The rating on the label doesn't say much except that it's input power is 1.6A RMS Max.
Reason I ask is that I'm looking for a portable power-supply and found a $75
"HKS VFD 0.75KW 1HP 110V 1 Phase Input 3 Phase 0-400HZ Output 10A"
but it says in bold letters, "for ASYNCHRONOUS motors ONLY!"
It also says it uses a 5V or 10V PWM control frequency.
So I'm confused if this will work, or is there something better suited/cheaper like Vevor? All I need is to spin the motor, one direction, at a constant/default speed (no "PWM").. and turn it on/off from the panel (RS485 would be nice but not necessary).
That's a little beyond my level of expertise. I'm not going to pretend to know more than I do, so that's a question you should direct to someone who is more learned than I. I wouldn't want to give you any wrong information. Sorry I couldn't help, but thanks for watching!
Thank you.
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for reminding me that my circuit breaker needs to be appropriately sized for the wiring. I looked at it, and it was extremely oversized. Dangerous.
Thanks for watching!
Excuse me but want to know the " 1.73 " that u multiplied to the motor's current. what does it stand for ? I need an answer pls i'am in the same situation and i want to undeestand it.
If the VFD is being powered by single phase 240 volts, which is two, 120 volt lines (or "phases"), it has to generate a third phase to send to the motor for it to function correctly. The 1.73 takes into account the extra amperage across the two supply wires to provide the motor it's Full Load Amps across 3 phases. This is to make sure the drive will be able to handle the extra load without damaging the internal components.
This link can probably explain it better than I can. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
www.precision-elec.com/derate-three-phase-vfd-for-single-phase-power/
Hello ~~ I am going to purchase this for 110v, 3 phase, 400hz output for aircraft. I have a question for you. Do I only need to input 110v for 110v output? Or is it converted to 110v even if I put in 220v?
I don't know for sure if it will convert 220v down to 110v. Thanks for watching!
If you bought one of these Huan Yang inverters you absolutely need to do two things if you want it to survive. 1) make damn sure you make up the ground wire on the inverter power terminal strip. I don't care if the case is plastic, the ground is to shunt electrical noise to ground. 2) most importantly, you need to connect properly sized MOVs from each leg to ground (150 volt MOVs) and from line to line (250 volt MOVs). The MOVs the factory installed are rated at 820 volts while the IGBT module is rated at 600 volts. This means a nearby lighting strike will destroy the IGBT module before the factory MOVs will ever begin to conduct.
Oversizing (derating) these inverters is a GOOD idea as the bus filter capacitors are NOT the best quality and will fail soon.
Thanks for the information, and thanks for watching!
Quick question, what did you do with the ground and neutral wires coming in from the toggle switch?
There is a 14/3 wire (black, red, white, and ground) coming from the breaker panel into the toggle switch junction box. The bare ground wire is connected to all of the following components via wire nut splice connections: The toggle switch, 120v receptacle, VFD, enclosure cabinet, and motor.
The black and red wires connect to the bottom terminals of the toggle switch. There is a 14/3 wire that connects the toggle switch to the VFD. It's black and red wires are connected to the top terminals of the toggle switch and then to the VFD at terminals R & S. It's white wire is capped off on both ends with a wire nut.
There is a 14/2 wire (black, white, and ground) that powers the 120v receptacle. It's black wire is connected to one of the top terminals of the toggle switch and then to the receptacle. It's white wire is spliced to the 14/3 white wire (from the breaker panel) inside the toggle switch junction box and then connects to the receptacle.
NOTE: The white wire that goes from the VFD to the motor is NOT a neutral wire. It is a "hot" power wire just like the black and red.
@@southerningenuity4458 much appreciated!!
Thanks for watching!
Can that vfd be used on a industrial meat grinder?
I would think so, if sized correctly. You must start and stop the motor via the drive itself by either the buttons on the front panel, or by an external switch (something like I have on my machine in the video). It's not recommended to put any switching device(s) between the motor and the power outputs on the drive. Thanks for watching!
Well done!
Thanks “Little B”.
Where did you hook up the white wire into the vfd on the single phase side
The white wire from the breaker is not connected to the VFD. It is connected to the 120v receptacle on the bottom side of the enclosure. The VFD is powered by the red and black wires. It doesn't need a neutral wire to run on 240 volts. The 120v receptacle must have a neutral to operate correctly. Thanks for watching!
@southerningenuity4458 Thank you, your viedo has helped me with my dilemma
I'm glad it helped.
what is the reason to select a vfd 1.73x amps of the motor? i personally have a dilemma where the 240 from my panel is wired to my current single phase irrigation pump for 50a. the new 3 phase pump uses 36a. if the vfd needs to draw 62a im thinking i may need to dig up and upgrade wires.. unless i put the vfd at the panel then the draw would be like 36a to the pump.. can you do that or does it need to be at the motor?
I'm not sure of all the specifics of how a VFD works, but basically, the 1.73 calculation is for adequately sizing the VFD when converting single phase into 3 phase. (According to what I found while researching for my project) I'm sure there are some higher end VFDs out there that would not require this, but for the cheap ones like I used, it was recommended to oversize the drive. If you're using a cheaper unit like I did, you should be able to put the VFD near the panel and use properly sized wires to connect it to the breaker. You'll need at least 3 insulated wires and an earth ground wire between the VFD and the motor. There are wire sizing charts online that you can reference for proper wire sizing for a 3 phase motor based on it's amp rating. There are also factors to keep in mind when there is a long distance between the VFD and the motor, but my knowledge in this area is limited, so you'll probably want to do some research on that. I hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
@@southerningenuity4458 thanks. it is about 150 ft and so there may be some issues with that. i think im going to build a rotary converter and just add one more 50a wire in the trench to run the 36a pump. if the pump is too big then ill go smaller and the wiring is overkill. its cheaper to downsize the pump than try to use a vfd to regulate the pump motor.. and that way having a converter by the panel will allow me to use shorter 3awg wire and let me other 3 phase motors in that shop if i want in the future.. thanks for the reply
@@firetoy911 I hope it turns out great, let me know how it goes!
how you can make a panel to control this invertor external?
To start/stop the motor in either forward or reverse, all that is needed is a single pole double throw (SPDT) toggle switch. Connect the common terminal of the switch to the DCM port on the VFD. (Time 8:20 in the video) Connect the forward port (FOR) on the VFD to one of the remaining terminals on the switch and connect the reverse (REV) port to the other terminal. This should allow you to flip the switch one way to start the motor in forward, and flip it the opposite way for reverse. To control the speed with a potentiometer, reference the video linked in the description of this video. Thanks for watching!
Can the unit be set up to start and stop when the input power is turned on or off?
I don't know if that is possible or not. When I turn on the power switch, it takes it a few seconds to "boot up" (like a computer) and then the fan comes on. But just out of curiosity, why would you want to do that? Is it for ease of installation, to not have to wire up an on/off switch?
The 3 phase motor is for the water pump on a parts washer. There was an add a phase wired into the supply to the motor. It burned up and I am replacing it with the VFD. The parts washer runs on a timer. I am looking for the simplest way to wire it, and I am wondering if installing a jumper between DCM and FWD would start the VFD in forward when it was powered up (without damaging the drive). Thanks for the reply.
I honestly don't know for sure if that would damage the drive or not. You may have to consult with the manufacturer to find out for sure. But, if you had 2 timers, (or a programmable one with multiple channels) and one turns on the drive and then a minute or so later the other connects the DCM /forward terminals, that would probably work. Then to shut down, have the second timer disconnect the DCM/Forward connection and a minute later the first timer turns off the drive. This may not be a "simple" wiring scheme, but it should function like you want without damaging the VFD. Hope this helps. Let me know how it turns out!
Thanks for the help. I'll let you know how it works when it is up and running.
Im still confused on where the white wire coming from the 220v goes
I'm not an electrical expert, so this may not be "technically" correct or "proper" electrical code. But basically, in normal household wiring (in the USA), a 220v circuit does not need a neutral to function correctly, but a 120v circuit does. The white wire from my breaker panel is not connected to the VFD. It is connected to the 120v outlet in the bottom of the VFD cabinet. (Both the 120v and 220v circuits must have the earth ground for safety reasons.) I used the 14-3 wire so I could supply everything associated with the milling machine with just 1 double pole breaker, and only have to run 1 wire. This saved time and money. The toggle switch on the side of the VFD cabinet is double pole. The red and black wires come from the breaker panel and connect to the bottom side of the switch. They continue on, from the top of the switch, to the VFD. I connected an additional black wire to one of the top side terminals of the switch and ran it to the 120v outlet. So, when I turn the switch on, 220v goes to the VFD and 120v goes to the outlet.
I needed 3 insulated wires to run the 3 phase motor, so the 14-3 wire was also used to connect the motor to the VFD. These wires probably should have been color coded yellow, orange and brown because it's a 3 phase circuit, but I had enough of the 14-3 wire left over, so I used it instead. Hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
How much amp this vfd use?
The VFD that I used in this video is rated to deliver 10 amps. Thanks for watching!
If you always soft start your motors, you dont need to be drastically underrating the VFD's you install..
Underrate, or overrate? Please explain, I'd like to know more.
@@southerningenuity4458 If you automatically assume you need a 5 hp VFD for a 2.5 HP motor, you are effectively underrating the VFD. Soft start your motor with the built-in programming option, and a VFD suitable for a 2.5 HP motor will work just fine.
Falling asleep listening to you. Get to the point. I can explain everything you said in a 1 minute video.
.....and yet you wasted even more time telling me about it. Thanks for watching!
Not helpful. The input of the inverter is 3 phase. How do I connect and how do I program it
The video is intended to give information concerning the Huanyang "HY" series drives. If your drive is another brand or series, the information may not be relevant. However, if it is one of the models listed in the video description, it should except single phase input on terminals "R" and "S", and output 3 phase on terminals "U", "V", and "W". The description also lists the parameters that will need to be programmed and an explanation on how to do the programming. Wiring and programming are covered in the video starting at time frame 06:45. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!
Video audio is horrible
Maybe so, but it's a TH-cam video, not a multi-million dollar Hollywood production. Thanks for watching!
Must be your connection. Audio is very good here on my end.
why does this have to be so F*cking complicated
LOL! What are you having trouble with?
Hi. Would this vfd be ok for an air compressor motor ?
I'm not sure if the particular VFD I used in the video would be suitable or not. There would be factors to consider given the starting loads and currents associated with air compressors. But it should possible if the VFD is properly sized. (Please consult a qualified electrical professional.) There would also be the issue of starting and stopping the motor based on the pressure in the tank. It's not recommended to install switching devices between the VFD and the motor. You would have to connect the motor leads directly to the VFD and start/stop the motor via the low voltage control circuits on the drive. This could be done by removing all line power from the contacts on the pressure switch and use the pressure switch to activate the control circuit. Thanks for watching!
www.phaseconverterinfo.com/phaseconverter_app_aircompressors.htm
please ask! Can a 220V inverter be used for a 110V motor?
Sorry, but my knowledge is pretty much limited to what was covered in the video. I don't want to tell you something wrong, so you'll need to ask someone more qualified than me. Thanks for watching!
Great video. Thanks
Thank you.