Excellent Job that you have done on my My Ratty Charger. It's Finally road worthy . I sure have made my mistakes by taking my car to persons I trusted getting my car fixed. Let this be a lesson learned to you Mopar Lovers, don't make the same mistakes as I have. It's costly, time consuming and you get no enjoyment from your Mopar for months. What a big difference from when you first started now. Just so happy to see my '69' Mopar on the road. Thank You Jamie for your expertise as a trusted mechanic. "Mopar Or No Car." Will be watching your Live Video tonight.
I totally agree with what you said about the lesson. Ralph, no offense intended to you in my other message recommending you let him level the car and put on wheels that fit and undo a couple of other things. (electric fuel pump, and fans) I was really thinking about the guy that butchered my 69 440 4 speed GTX before I bought it around 1978.
I had the same problem and decided to go to automotive school. Too many clown mechanics that charge a lot of money to screw things up. This guy is great!
I've recently ended up with a couple of mopar survivors lately, a 67 Charger and a 69 300, both 440s. This channel along with a few others, has been a lot of fun and a lot of help picking up the nuances of these cars.
Check the accuracy of your scales by stopping at the Montesano/Brady state truck scales. Usually the weighmaster will point the readout at the window when he leaves for the day. If he is there he might weigh it for you if he isnt busy and you ask nicely...oh and if he is in a good mood.
Right, that. Haha. I’ve never stopped in there yet. There are other options around too. After the battery charged a bit we were getting much more reliable and repeatable results.
As for the carb I would change the springs before the rods in the secondary circuit. On the drive I felt like this was a sequel to dirty Mary and crazy Larry. What a flash back. No cops and no trains so it ended good. My 70 440 6pac weight is 3807 so that tracks. I wonder what the blown hemi will weigh. The world may never know😅 that build is so far on the back burner I can't see the stove anymore
I just picked up a 68 Satellite with a 273 and 3 speed auto 2 weeks ago. Immediately started watching your channel and i had to put a face to the voice. This is what i imagined but all of the videos i was watching you had the beard. This finally puts it to rest and that is all. Love the videos and the simplistic breakdowns of wiring. You helped me diagnose a bad sending unit (Install an RTE Limiter and used my power probe to determine the limiter and gauge is working but the sending unit is no good). Now i need to figure why the temp gauge doesn't work.
Can’t wait for the launch of your second channel, where you and your brother cruise around in “road worthy” Mopars. Epic. :) Great stuff as always. Very entertaining.
You've done some of the things I've done when I was younger like getting the pin in the u joint well in the wrong place and yeah it didn't last very long I was never a Mopar guy but all the old stuff is pretty much the same olds pontiac were my favs my first car I registered in high school was a 67 cutlass 330 cu inch q jet carb and power glide
Great video! Awesome charger! I've had a couple drive shafts that the u joint moved on like that in the past and I took a dot punch and made them tight.👍
That’s good thinking. I was considering various methods to “stake” the cap like a race that is moving in a hub. But settled on hammer taps and tack welds.
Thanks for the DDG motivation to go out to my Dead Chebby Garage and remove a C5 Corvette torque tube. Yay. I love that old Power Wagon at 15:34. Bucket list truck and my PC screen background picture. A cheap vette owner can dream.
Great video, still watching. You’ve got another option for the loose driveshaft u-joint casting. Using a hammer and center punch stake the inside of the bore in several places as equidistant as you can where the u-joint cap presses in. It sounds barbaric at first but it’s actually just like the old old method of knurling valve guides. That is, before knurling tools that spiral into the guides like a thread tap to create a spiral raised surface. The older tool was similar to a hardened valve stem with a slot cut parallel to the centerline. They had a piece that pinned into the slot that resembles a spur for your cowboy boots. Depending upon how loose a valve guide is you drive the tool thru the guides starting at 1 pass then another at 180 deg to that and finally at every 90 degrees. Anyway it’s a time tested process that’s worked as long as stuff has started wearing out from around the beginning of the Industrial Age. Not sure if you’ll employ it anytime soon but wanted to pass it along. It’s saved me countless times over the years. Good luck 👍
Yep - actually talked about this in another comment. Have used a similar staking technique for loose bearing races in a hub when no other options are available. He is going to replace the driveshaft anyway, so I decided this would be quick and easy enough. Probably should’ve tried staking - for science. Next time… And there will be a next time…
You mentioned how the handling is pretty good on this Charger, and this is one of the things I like about the B-body/small block combo. The lighter engine makes for better handling and weight distribution vs. the big block. And when you can get 408 CI out of a small block, you also have the power. I have a 73 RR 340 and I have always liked the way it handles. It has sway bars front and rear stock from the factory so that helps. Now my dream is to put a stroker kit in the 340 which I believe will get it to 416 cubes, since the 340 has a slightly larger bore than the 360. Another thing I like about the B-body/sb combo is the extra room and clearance under the hood. Things like spark plug changes are a piece of cake, and headers are much easier to live with vs. a big block.
I have a 69 charger with a 440 and I have bee. Working on carb tuning and my engine shakes like this one does which makes adjusting the air mixture screws tricky. I was thinking I had a slight misfire or bad motor mount but seeing thus engine doing the same thing makes me feel better
Just changed the oil in my manual trans and ya, it is a bit of a hassle to refill it cuz I need to jack it up and “guess” at the fluid level - but looking at this video and all the lines and crap that it has, I’ll take that bit of inconvenience lol
I have had to replace the engine a couple times in different cars and trucks and pull out a 360 and could not find another one so had to go with the 318 and to fix the balance problem was simply knocking off the weight on the torque converter, but if you do make sure to save it in case you find a 360 and you want to swap it back in then you will have to weld it back on, forgot to remove the weight once and witnessed a rather spectacular transmission failure than sent the drive shaft a hundred yards or so and only part of the broken off bell housing was left on the engine, that was the older la engines don't know much about the newer magnum engines
…are you sure that was your only problem? I only ask because my Demon has been down a drag strip vibrating due to having the wrong weight (long story,) and this Charger had done a couple hundred miles with a weight where there shouldn’t be one before I fixed it. It pretty clearly still has a transmission in one piece. The balance issue can certainly do bad things to an engine over time (as well as rattling your fillings out) but that shouldn’t be on the menu. I have knocked weights off, and I have also mapped out a converter to add the weight where there never was one with success - although I’m not sure I could get that lucky twice…
When you removed the driveline, I thought "hey I have one just like it!" and had a laugh. I've a 69 road runner that was owned by Micky Mouse and worked on by Hellen Keller at some point prior. Anyway, had the 4 Sp rebuilt and afterwards I had a weird squeak. After some sleuthing I found the yoke was jammed up into the tailshaft seal. Old tran didn't have the seal so it wasn't a problem. I suspect a PO removed the seal to remedy the issue. Anyway, I pulled the driveline and found it was an inch too long. It apparently came out of a dodge charger and looks EXACTLY like the one you dropped.
Looks like a 318 drive shaft. You might want to try some Big Band Music. It's nearly impossible to be sad when listening to it. The car sounds great! Even this ratty that car looks great!
I want you to know that I got a ridiculous chuckle out of the big band music comment. Haha. It really sounds awesome now. Ralph picked it up on Thursday and seemed impressed.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Don't know if that's a good thing about Big Band music or not. I like playing this when driving auto cross. th-cam.com/video/BcAPcGCd_bc/w-d-xo.html
Suggestions: I. replace electric fans with a good clutch drive fan and shroud 2. delete electric fuel pump and add mechanical fuel pump, if possible 3. Put the narrower front tires and wheels on the rear and level the car by lowering the back. Put better fitting wheels on the front and start search for wheels that match the other four centerlines but with correct size 4. Iron down whatever is flopping around on the rear shelf. 5. Find a matching bezel to surround the thumb wheel radio.
One and two are literally what I told him. Unfortunately these operations just aren’t in the budget right now, so it’s going to have to stay as it is. The entire fuel line was changed to 3/8” and routed in such a way that it won’t work for a mechanical pump at all. Also, there is a really good chance the engine doesn’t have a fuel pump eccentric. They would’ve had to add that intentionally. As for the ridiculous wheels, tires and stance… there was this time called the late 70s. I bet you’ve heard of it. And in that time, this look was apparently “the thing.” It has endured in the hearts and minds of many - and personally, I love it. It’s large and in charge, which was done intentionally. It’s not at all ideal, but it’s awesome. You saw me test the handling. Considering the way the suspension is set up and the staggered wheels, one would expect it to corner horribly - but one would be pleasantly surprised. I’ve found the same thing with my car. Unfortunately I’ve also found the rear driver side tire’s sidewall with my car… I’ll be changing some things there. Someone has set a random wrong size package tray cover on the package tray. I didn’t even realize it was there until reviewing the footage. I’ll probably move it… probably. And I’m sure a bezel is in the plan some day. A passenger door panel might be nice too.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Oh, I was there in the 70's. I've been screaming about the stance ever since I bought a 69 GTX that had all this idiocy in the back that made the car dangerous and look ridiculous. I've bought cars that had every single stupid thing ever done to them. That is one reason why I could afford them. They were butchered. I am thinking of making a channel mocking this stuff. Take it from me. The guys that put the ladder bars and air shocks and Pro-Trac L 60 14 belted tires on chrome reverse wheels sticking past the quarters, who threw away the chokes on their Holleys and milled off the choke horns, threw away their double snorkel air cleaner and put on chrome 9 inch diameter ones, put a frame shaking rattle box electric fuel pump on the rear frame, fixed the bad ignition switch with two jumper wires you rub together to operate the starter, slapped giant "Plymouth" decals like Richard Petty's NASCAR track car on the quarters of their GTX, covered their windows and sheet metal with free decals from Gratiot Auto Supply, Put L-88 style hood scoops on a Javelin, had Earl Scheib repaint their cars purple, put on small diameter Grant steering wheels.... well, these guys were in the minority and every real car guy knew they were idiots even in 1978. They are the same now-old-guys that look at a 67 AMC Marlin at the car show and tell you that they bought one brand new, and bought "the 396 Hemi option". When you politely tell them what was more likely, they say, "It was my car!" "Do you still have it?" "No I sold it 50 years ago!" It is like saying ,"Oh, those back alley coat hanger abortions.... I hear that was a big part of romance in those days. Let's do one for nostalgia reasons." I don't know how old your customer is. Either he is under the age of 65 and he learned everything he knows about the 70's from the "Street Freaks" issues of "Car Craft" and a couple of TH-cam guys that bizarrely copy this today, or he was one of the culprits who now is in his mid to late 60's that didn't know what he was doing then and has not learned anything since.
@@auteurfiddler8706 I get what you are saying - and I am just as disgusted by "that guy" as you are, believe me. BUT... and this is a big old honkin' but... the stance cool! I like it, and I'm well under the age where any of this sort of thing was anywhere near my high school parking lot. I've seen the cars and I love them. I'm not alone in this in my age bracket. I've never read Car Craft. But I have owned a Challenger that came equipped with shock extensions, air shocks, slapper bars, side dump exhaust, and slot mags that stuck out two inches past the quarter panels... (I did opt to remove the slapper bars, and go for skinnier mag wheels that actually fit.) And while it's all totally not right, I'm willing to suffer to a certain degree for style. Hell, we all are, if we're willing to actually drive these cars... There's a certain mystique to that style of car - when done tastefully. Especially one that looks like it's been there and done that like Ralph's. I understand why it disgusts you. The same reason lifted Ford pickups covered in mud disgust me, I think... because we remember that guy.
@@DeadDodgeGarage I was at a cruise night in Whittier about 30 years ago at a big shopping mall. Some people were standing around looked at a low rider. An older woman asked me why anyone would do that to their car. I answered carefully because the car owner and low rider fans were listening. And a lot of other people, too. I began with a history of how the older stodgier cars of the late 40s and early 50s that poor communities owned were being customized by lowering them to partly imitate the new longer, lower, wider cars of the later 50's. I said that all the modifications were done for the purpose of style . Just like the trucks with four big tires and lift kits and the coupes with big fat tires on the back. I said they provide no practical benefit and a lot of disadvantages. But these cars were not meant to take the family to Vegas or Yosemite. They were not expected to drive at faster than a walking pace and then only to car events. Surprisingly, none of the low rider guys objected to that summary. They seemed actually grateful. I guess I can be charitable and say that about stink bug cars, too. It is hard to be that objective since so many of mine were and sadly still are, stinked up.
Love this car. With dual electric fans and an electric fuel pump, I sure hope there's a direct connection from the alternator to the battery! Or the ammeter has been bypassed.
Trunk battery… basically none of it is ideal. It needs a larger alternator, that’s for damn sure. I’m well familiar with shunt wires. I kinda made a video about that. 🙂
Did you know on your Carburetor the 2 vacuum ports one is manifold vacuum and the other 1 is for your distributor vacuum The lower one is straight manifold vacuum The upper one is for distributor vacuum✊️😎
I'm very envious! You get to drive 2 bitching Chargers and I get to drive none!😂😂 I am definitely digging the 70s stance and the foot gas pedal. That's classic 70s!
10:44. The Duplicolor actually seems pretty close. And it's readily available. 13:28 And why does that canister look like an empty can of beans? Oh...Chrysler, gotta love ya.
I call it a coffee can. Haha. The duplicolor is quite close, but that is “GM Blue,” not “Chrysler Blue.” No one has the Chrysler color in stock anymore… that’s going to be a problem.
Hey Jamie is it me or is the charger running a lil warm maybe you have a 195 thermostat idk but I always get a lil nervous when I see any race or older motors running that warm. When I had my coyote swap fox on dyno the power always starts to go south over 170/175ish but like I said before I’ve been a ford guy for 30 years. Again I love you’re Mopar videos that’s why I’ve been around hear over a year and I was only asking about the temp I know you know you’re mopars
I cut it out of the video for time, but realized that I was misreading the tick marks on that gauge. It is hanging right around 200. For a street driving engine, that’s fine. Less wear and better fuel efficiency around the 190-210 mark. Newer engines are intentionally calibrated to run there - or even higher. It is most likely a 195 stat, which will give an operating temperature just above that. I’m confident it will do fine. Thanks!
Just watching your other videos and noticed something so im gonna try and hope for an answer.. My 69 Charger had the same wobble on the odometer then suddenly stuck on 60 mph, do you know if it’s just a new odometer wire i need or something else? Love the channel glad to see it get the attention it deserves. Regards from norway :)
The speedometer cable is the likely cause of the up and down movement, but it shouldn’t be able to stick your speedometer like that. You might pop the cable off the back and see if it is bound up and the gauge goes back down, but unfortunately, you probably need both a speedometer and a speedometer cable at this point.
Kind of. There is an adjusting screw inside some (most?) pods that changes the engagement point, but it doesn’t limit the total advance achieved. That has to be done through mechanical methods - some use a piece of mechanic’s wire apparently. It’s something I’ve read about but have never messed with to this point, but I plan to dive in on that in the future.
@DeadDodgeGarage it adjusts the spring preload that the diaphragm pulls against makes a big difference. It will limit total travel as well if adjusted enough. It's a Alan screw that you access through the vacuum port nipple. At least that way you don't lose.the benefits of vacuum advance for cruising and part throttle
It’s just not at all ideal. Part of it is my little compressor sucks, but at least one of them would just never do anything but leak air. Which is weird, it was in service right before I got it.
Ok so the vacuum advance thing on boosted applications? I'm confused on that one I'm currently building a twin turbo 318 la and have pondered this many times also power brakes is that even an option?
I’m not totally sure on the inner workings of power brakes with boost, but lots and lots of factory turbo cars have vacuum boosters, so it must work somehow. I think due to the check valve in the booster, there will be vacuum stored even under boost, meaning there is enough present for a good stop until no longer under boost. But I’m not completely sure. The thinking behind the vacuum advance is this - you use regular manifold vacuum for the vacuum advance signal, meaning it is always in play and advancing the timing at idle, and (likely utilizing a recurved distributor and custom amount of advance from the vacuum unit,) you account for that vacuum advance in your timing curve. Under boost, the vacuum advance will be fully disengaged, taking away whatever amount of timing it allows. If your vacuum pod yields 17 degrees of advance like this one does, *all* of that will be gone as soon as the turbo builds any boost, which will likely be too much, and will rob a bunch of power, among other things. But with some careful tuning and science, it could be used to boost reference your ignition timing, subtract a suitable amount, and prevent detonation.
Some guys say the fresh Motors that get beat as soon as you drop them in are the fastest Motors!😂 I've never had the nerve to try that, because I'm not a millionaire!😂 and I didn't want to scatter my freshly rebuilt big block Chevy all over the street!
Yes I’ve heard that “drive it how you’re going to drive it” kind of thing a good few times. A friend recalls firing up a brand new engine and immediately doing donuts. It lived a long and happy life. Definitely need to build some cylinder pressure so a bit of beans here and there is fine. Just don’t want to beat the snot out of it while it’s still fresh, at least in my opinion.
@@DeadDodgeGarage It's fine. Too many cars too many mufflers... I get that But if you have a wild fever dream that isn't all about corn dogs or mail trucks and you somehow remember that muffler. Let me know 😀 Ps. I'm kinda jealous of your 68 charger that's a mint car
But it is well there's a Marshal's in there and file them out to fit the dejoint and well demanded and stacked him up to put the metal back in the yolk then you wouldn't have any problem a better way of cobbling
Jamie...question sir....the 46RE in my '90 RamCharger is FUBAR.... 1. I could save up $2800 to $3000 for a Jasper 2. Source the parts and re-build it myself 3. Find a junkyard trans of the same "flavor"..... my question is....which other Dodges shared the 46RE/A518??..... that I could just shove another trans in there without too much hassle I Appreciate your "Dodge Whispering Ways".....
Is it factory? That wouldn’t be an RE, it’s a 46RH. Pickups used those through ‘96. The later electronic 46RE is similar, but won’t shift itself without the intervention of electronics. In my experience, just about every used one you’ll find is going to be junk too… it is probably worth sending the money to Jasper. If you think you’re handy enough to rebuild it, go for it! I’ve done it… it didn’t work out, let’s just say that. But I hope to get better at that at some point.
It's an RH....youre absolutey right about that....really I just changed the fluid and filter and found a magical world of silvery sludge and "hairy magnets"...so.....yes ..it's time to source a rebuilt...apparently Jasper has been kicking claims back so I'll see if I can source one online @@DeadDodgeGarage
Yes - but the 408 is also really good, much simpler, a better fit, and so much cheaper to do. Obviously the EFI and six speed help the drivability on the hemi side. Haha.
Is it me or after doing aton of work and not 100% if it will work and covered in grease and tired as hell i just jump in and drive far away for a bite to eat and not give a fuck if it breaks
@@DeadDodgeGarage it's even better if you do it in the middle of the night so if you break down you are really screwed. Haven't failed to make it back yet
I’ll never be able to own a dodge charger, any time I wanted to buy one for a slightly good deal at 60K someone always outbid me, some old fat dude with millions just buys them and never drives them. If I did manage to somehow find a dodge charger I wouldn’t be able to drive it because zero mechanics in NY state will work on classic cars and only Chevys…I could not fix it myself because I don’t have a garage or tools, my X wife stole my house and tools. Even if I found a classic charger for sale at a classic dealership I’m sure I would be scammed.
Ugh. It's really tough out there. I wasn't sure I would ever have one either. I made a couple decent life decisions and got really, really lucky - and mine is far from perfect. But it's better than I ever thought I'd have.
@@DeadDodgeGarage don’t mind me, I’m a grumpy old man, get off my lawn you kids! I could never buy a charger that needed body work, I don’t trust any NY garages and I know it would cost millions to repair. My only chance is buy a rust free example with a 318 and later drop it off at your shop to have a 440 installed 😜
@@charlieb308 Well... that would work! Haha. There are lots and lots of people (young and grumpy alike) that want a Charger and can't get one - that's a big part of why the prices have gotten so stupid. It's a problem...
Your a Chevy guy i take it, you don't know much about old Mopar's they like to run cool 180 is stock thermostat on all 1960- 72 Mopar the cooler the under hood temp is the better. Expecially Big cubic inch engine's that make allot of engine heat. @@DeadDodgeGarage
@@jmendo2546 I'm a Chevy guy?! I'm a FUCKING CHEVY GUY?! I've had some insults thrown my way in the comments, but that one takes the god damn cake! How many Chevys do you see on my channel, exactly? I have been living and breathing old Mopars for longer than I have had a driver's license. You would need both hands and at least one foot to count the number of classic Mopars on my property right now. There are almost a dozen LA engines in my shop right now. At the *Mopar only* restoration shop I work at a few days a week, I am currently building a factory detail correct, numbers matching 440 for a fucking wing car. I KNOW OLD MOPARS. I also happen to know a good bit about modern engine technology and regular cars, and if you do too, then you may well know that hotter operating temperatures lead to less engine wear and better fuel economy, and are commonplace today. This engine has the Magnum's factory rated 195 thermostat - and it's fucking fine. It also has a giant aluminum radiator and dual electric fans. A cooler operating temperature is not necessarily what you want. Ask any old schooler and they'll tell you that you need to run a 160 thermostat. No.
It’s like 15x11, and the back spacing? Not enough… it appears to measure 4”. If it was 4.5”, I wouldn’t have tire rub. 5” might even fit with the springs in the stock locations.
Excellent Job that you have done on my My Ratty Charger. It's Finally road worthy . I sure have made my mistakes by taking my car to persons I trusted getting my car fixed. Let this be a lesson learned to you Mopar Lovers, don't make the same mistakes as I have. It's costly, time consuming and you get no enjoyment from your Mopar for months. What a big difference from when you first started now. Just so happy to see my '69' Mopar on the road. Thank You Jamie for your expertise as a trusted mechanic. "Mopar Or No Car." Will be watching your Live Video tonight.
Thanks Ralph! Happy to help - and very excited by the “finished” product. You’re going to have quite the street machine on your hands.
I totally agree with what you said about the lesson.
Ralph, no offense intended to you in my other message recommending you let him level the car and put on wheels that fit and undo a couple of other things. (electric fuel pump, and fans)
I was really thinking about the guy that butchered my 69 440 4 speed GTX before I bought it around 1978.
I had the same problem and decided to go to automotive school. Too many clown mechanics that charge a lot of money to screw things up. This guy is great!
This channel is dangerously close to becoming my favorite youtube car channel, a lot I could learn here
I've recently ended up with a couple of mopar survivors lately, a 67 Charger and a 69 300, both 440s. This channel along with a few others, has been a lot of fun and a lot of help picking up the nuances of these cars.
That’s awesome! I’m here to help with that! Have fun.
Check the accuracy of your scales by stopping at the Montesano/Brady state truck scales. Usually the weighmaster will point the readout at the window when he leaves for the day. If he is there he might weigh it for you if he isnt busy and you ask nicely...oh and if he is in a good mood.
Right, that. Haha. I’ve never stopped in there yet. There are other options around too. After the battery charged a bit we were getting much more reliable and repeatable results.
That looks like a pretty solid car underneath. And relatively sanitary. Just missed a few details on assembly.
As for the carb I would change the springs before the rods in the secondary circuit. On the drive I felt like this was a sequel to dirty Mary and crazy Larry. What a flash back. No cops and no trains so it ended good. My 70 440 6pac weight is 3807 so that tracks. I wonder what the blown hemi will weigh. The world may never know😅 that build is so far on the back burner I can't see the stove anymore
I just picked up a 68 Satellite with a 273 and 3 speed auto 2 weeks ago. Immediately started watching your channel and i had to put a face to the voice. This is what i imagined but all of the videos i was watching you had the beard. This finally puts it to rest and that is all. Love the videos and the simplistic breakdowns of wiring. You helped me diagnose a bad sending unit (Install an RTE Limiter and used my power probe to determine the limiter and gauge is working but the sending unit is no good). Now i need to figure why the temp gauge doesn't work.
Outstanding! Haha. Well the beard is back now. Mostly. Anyway, happy to help.
" I know the reason, but...still..." 😆
Your brothers Impala is awesome !!! The four speed is so cool and unexpended, i want one !!!
Can’t wait for the launch of your second channel, where you and your brother cruise around in “road worthy” Mopars. Epic. :)
Great stuff as always. Very entertaining.
Haaahaha. No, that’ll all be right here. No need to hit subscribe again.
Groovy wheels!
Thank you for your courage.
More awesome! Thanks
Love the collection of Mopars especially the chargers and the power wagon
Thanks Jamie
It sounds Great! Fine Job on the Fine Tune. I love the paint. Leave that alone. Regards from Ody Slim
You've done some of the things I've done when I was younger like getting the pin in the u joint well in the wrong place and yeah it didn't last very long I was never a Mopar guy but all the old stuff is pretty much the same olds pontiac were my favs my first car I registered in high school was a 67 cutlass 330 cu inch q jet carb and power glide
i like this charger a lot,
📢 "THE DIMMER SWITCH IS BAAAAAAAADDDD!"📢
Excellent Work Those Classic Cars Are Good I Don't See Many Here In Brownsville Texas 😎 Which Some Day I Might Be Able To Own One 👍🇺🇸
The '69 Charger has to be one of the coolest looking cars ever made.
Second only to the ‘68 Charger 🙂 seriously though, they’re fantastic.
Great video! Awesome charger! I've had a couple drive shafts that the u joint moved on like that in the past and I took a dot punch and made them tight.👍
That’s good thinking. I was considering various methods to “stake” the cap like a race that is moving in a hub. But settled on hammer taps and tack welds.
Thanks for the DDG motivation to go out to my Dead Chebby Garage and remove a C5 Corvette torque tube. Yay.
I love that old Power Wagon at 15:34. Bucket list truck and my PC screen background picture. A cheap vette owner can dream.
You can do eeeet! I love it too. Video on the power wagon coming next week, finally. It’s been almost a year since the last video.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Torque tube out. Destroyed an aluminum coupler inside it this time...running out of durable options
Love that car it just NEEDS a MANUAL. And the hide aways work.
While I understand the notion, I like an automatic for a daily driver. Don’t mind it at all. For an all party all the time car, well… different story.
I’m loving this channel and those 69 chargers are just gorgeous! Your brother looks a lot like a young Ian Anderson . Kinda giving my age away huh ?
Only slightly 😅
Cool i think that bridge is a hold my corn dog as you punch it 😂😂😂😂
I have had good results using loctite 648 on loose u-joint caps. There is another loctite which will fill in even greater clearances.
Great video, still watching. You’ve got another option for the loose driveshaft u-joint casting. Using a hammer and center punch stake the inside of the bore in several places as equidistant as you can where the u-joint cap presses in. It sounds barbaric at first but it’s actually just like the old old method of knurling valve guides. That is, before knurling tools that spiral into the guides like a thread tap to create a spiral raised surface. The older tool was similar to a hardened valve stem with a slot cut parallel to the centerline. They had a piece that pinned into the slot that resembles a spur for your cowboy boots. Depending upon how loose a valve guide is you drive the tool thru the guides starting at 1 pass then another at 180 deg to that and finally at every 90 degrees. Anyway it’s a time tested process that’s worked as long as stuff has started wearing out from around the beginning of the Industrial Age.
Not sure if you’ll employ it anytime soon but wanted to pass it along. It’s saved me countless times over the years. Good luck 👍
Yep - actually talked about this in another comment. Have used a similar staking technique for loose bearing races in a hub when no other options are available. He is going to replace the driveshaft anyway, so I decided this would be quick and easy enough. Probably should’ve tried staking - for science. Next time… And there will be a next time…
You mentioned how the handling is pretty good on this Charger, and this is one of the things I like about the B-body/small block combo. The lighter engine makes for better handling and weight distribution vs. the big block. And when you can get 408 CI out of a small block, you also have the power. I have a 73 RR 340 and I have always liked the way it handles. It has sway bars front and rear stock from the factory so that helps. Now my dream is to put a stroker kit in the 340 which I believe will get it to 416 cubes, since the 340 has a slightly larger bore than the 360.
Another thing I like about the B-body/sb combo is the extra room and clearance under the hood. Things like spark plug changes are a piece of cake, and headers are much easier to live with vs. a big block.
Of course! I love it. We were trying to prove that when we weighed the car at the end... it didn't quite work out that way.
I have a 69 charger with a 440 and I have bee. Working on carb tuning and my engine shakes like this one does which makes adjusting the air mixture screws tricky. I was thinking I had a slight misfire or bad motor mount but seeing thus engine doing the same thing makes me feel better
Just changed the oil in my manual trans and ya, it is a bit of a hassle to refill it cuz I need to jack it up and “guess” at the fluid level - but looking at this video and all the lines and crap that it has, I’ll take that bit of inconvenience lol
I have had to replace the engine a couple times in different cars and trucks and pull out a 360 and could not find another one so had to go with the 318 and to fix the balance problem was simply knocking off the weight on the torque converter, but if you do make sure to save it in case you find a 360 and you want to swap it back in then you will have to weld it back on, forgot to remove the weight once and witnessed a rather spectacular transmission failure than sent the drive shaft a hundred yards or so and only part of the broken off bell housing was left on the engine, that was the older la engines don't know much about the newer magnum engines
…are you sure that was your only problem? I only ask because my Demon has been down a drag strip vibrating due to having the wrong weight (long story,) and this Charger had done a couple hundred miles with a weight where there shouldn’t be one before I fixed it. It pretty clearly still has a transmission in one piece. The balance issue can certainly do bad things to an engine over time (as well as rattling your fillings out) but that shouldn’t be on the menu. I have knocked weights off, and I have also mapped out a converter to add the weight where there never was one with success - although I’m not sure I could get that lucky twice…
When you removed the driveline, I thought "hey I have one just like it!" and had a laugh. I've a 69 road runner that was owned by Micky Mouse and worked on by Hellen Keller at some point prior. Anyway, had the 4 Sp rebuilt and afterwards I had a weird squeak. After some sleuthing I found the yoke was jammed up into the tailshaft seal. Old tran didn't have the seal so it wasn't a problem. I suspect a PO removed the seal to remedy the issue. Anyway, I pulled the driveline and found it was an inch too long. It apparently came out of a dodge charger and looks EXACTLY like the one you dropped.
Yep… that’d be a Dodge shaft. Nice.
Hey Jamie, have a drive shaft made. Also, vibrations created by the driveshaft can and will break the tail housing on the transmission.
I’ve never seen it yet, and I’ve had some pretty awful driveshaft vibrations. I advised the owner to do exactly that.
Yes necromancer does have a point
Needs a couple of blow thru windows on the shroud, with rubber flaps.
Looks like a 318 drive shaft. You might want to try some Big Band Music. It's nearly impossible to be sad when listening to it.
The car sounds great! Even this ratty that car looks great!
I want you to know that I got a ridiculous chuckle out of the big band music comment. Haha. It really sounds awesome now. Ralph picked it up on Thursday and seemed impressed.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Don't know if that's a good thing about Big Band music or not. I like playing this when driving auto cross. th-cam.com/video/BcAPcGCd_bc/w-d-xo.html
Don't know what it is about that car, but it has copious amounts of something. The owner is one lucky SOB.
Suggestions:
I. replace electric fans with a good clutch drive fan and shroud
2. delete electric fuel pump and add mechanical fuel pump, if possible
3. Put the narrower front tires and wheels on the rear and level the car by lowering the back. Put better fitting wheels on the front and start search for wheels that match the other four centerlines but with correct size
4. Iron down whatever is flopping around on the rear shelf.
5. Find a matching bezel to surround the thumb wheel radio.
One and two are literally what I told him. Unfortunately these operations just aren’t in the budget right now, so it’s going to have to stay as it is. The entire fuel line was changed to 3/8” and routed in such a way that it won’t work for a mechanical pump at all. Also, there is a really good chance the engine doesn’t have a fuel pump eccentric. They would’ve had to add that intentionally.
As for the ridiculous wheels, tires and stance… there was this time called the late 70s. I bet you’ve heard of it. And in that time, this look was apparently “the thing.” It has endured in the hearts and minds of many - and personally, I love it. It’s large and in charge, which was done intentionally. It’s not at all ideal, but it’s awesome. You saw me test the handling. Considering the way the suspension is set up and the staggered wheels, one would expect it to corner horribly - but one would be pleasantly surprised. I’ve found the same thing with my car. Unfortunately I’ve also found the rear driver side tire’s sidewall with my car… I’ll be changing some things there.
Someone has set a random wrong size package tray cover on the package tray. I didn’t even realize it was there until reviewing the footage. I’ll probably move it… probably. And I’m sure a bezel is in the plan some day. A passenger door panel might be nice too.
@@DeadDodgeGarage Oh, I was there in the 70's. I've been screaming about the stance ever since I bought a 69 GTX that had all this idiocy in the back that made the car dangerous and look ridiculous. I've bought cars that had every single stupid thing ever done to them. That is one reason why I could afford them. They were butchered. I am thinking of making a channel mocking this stuff.
Take it from me. The guys that put the ladder bars and air shocks and Pro-Trac L 60 14 belted tires on chrome reverse wheels sticking past the quarters, who threw away the chokes on their Holleys and milled off the choke horns, threw away their double snorkel air cleaner and put on chrome 9 inch diameter ones, put a frame shaking rattle box electric fuel pump on the rear frame, fixed the bad ignition switch with two jumper wires you rub together to operate the starter, slapped giant "Plymouth" decals like Richard Petty's NASCAR track car on the quarters of their GTX, covered their windows and sheet metal with free decals from Gratiot Auto Supply, Put L-88 style hood scoops on a Javelin, had Earl Scheib repaint their cars purple, put on small diameter Grant steering wheels....
well, these guys were in the minority and every real car guy knew they were idiots even in 1978.
They are the same now-old-guys that look at a 67 AMC Marlin at the car show and tell you that they bought one brand new, and bought "the 396 Hemi option". When you politely tell them what was more likely, they say, "It was my car!" "Do you still have it?" "No I sold it 50 years ago!"
It is like saying ,"Oh, those back alley coat hanger abortions.... I hear that was a big part of romance in those days. Let's do one for nostalgia reasons."
I don't know how old your customer is. Either he is under the age of 65 and he learned everything he knows about the 70's from the "Street Freaks" issues of "Car Craft" and a couple of TH-cam guys that bizarrely copy this today, or he was one of the culprits who now is in his mid to late 60's that didn't know what he was doing then and has not learned anything since.
Take a look at Thunderhead289's new 70 Torino project. Now THAT car's rear treatment makes you think.
@@auteurfiddler8706 I get what you are saying - and I am just as disgusted by "that guy" as you are, believe me. BUT... and this is a big old honkin' but... the stance cool! I like it, and I'm well under the age where any of this sort of thing was anywhere near my high school parking lot. I've seen the cars and I love them. I'm not alone in this in my age bracket.
I've never read Car Craft. But I have owned a Challenger that came equipped with shock extensions, air shocks, slapper bars, side dump exhaust, and slot mags that stuck out two inches past the quarter panels... (I did opt to remove the slapper bars, and go for skinnier mag wheels that actually fit.) And while it's all totally not right, I'm willing to suffer to a certain degree for style. Hell, we all are, if we're willing to actually drive these cars...
There's a certain mystique to that style of car - when done tastefully. Especially one that looks like it's been there and done that like Ralph's. I understand why it disgusts you. The same reason lifted Ford pickups covered in mud disgust me, I think... because we remember that guy.
@@DeadDodgeGarage I was at a cruise night in Whittier about 30 years ago at a big shopping mall. Some people were standing around looked at a low rider. An older woman asked me why anyone would do that to their car. I answered carefully because the car owner and low rider fans were listening. And a lot of other people, too. I began with a history of how the older stodgier cars of the late 40s and early 50s that poor communities owned were being customized by lowering them to partly imitate the new longer, lower, wider cars of the later 50's. I said that all the modifications were done for the purpose of style . Just like the trucks with four big tires and lift kits and the coupes with big fat tires on the back. I said they provide no practical benefit and a lot of disadvantages. But these cars were not meant to take the family to Vegas or Yosemite. They were not expected to drive at faster than a walking pace and then only to car events.
Surprisingly, none of the low rider guys objected to that summary. They seemed actually grateful.
I guess I can be charitable and say that about stink bug cars, too. It is hard to be that objective since so many of mine were and sadly still are, stinked up.
I do like those tires and wheels the gold one. Seems like " header clearance," is always an oxymoron :-)
Jonny Mopar just did a video on throttle linkages , but his is a big block , may help you anyway !!!
I know what I’m doing with them 🙂
Love this car. With dual electric fans and an electric fuel pump, I sure hope there's a direct connection from the alternator to the battery! Or the ammeter has been bypassed.
Trunk battery… basically none of it is ideal. It needs a larger alternator, that’s for damn sure. I’m well familiar with shunt wires. I kinda made a video about that. 🙂
Did you know on your Carburetor the 2 vacuum ports one is manifold vacuum and the other 1 is for your distributor vacuum The lower one is straight manifold vacuum The upper one is for distributor vacuum✊️😎
Uh, yeah, I know. Lol.
I'm very envious! You get to drive 2 bitching Chargers and I get to drive none!😂😂 I am definitely digging the 70s stance and the foot gas pedal. That's classic 70s!
I apologize in advance for this, but in the coming weeks you’re going to have even more to be envious of then 😅 I love this thing. It’s awesome.
Driveshafts which leave the car are...exciting.
Oh very much so. I’ve been excited a good couple times over the years… once at 65+ in the left lane, at night.
Brother needs a haircut too! 😂
I watched him catch it on a chunk of coat hangar up under the Barracuda twice yesterday, and once under a creeper wheel last week… yeah it’s time.
@Dead Dodge Garage It's nearly perfect, when can I come get it?
Ralph might be more than a little displeased 😅
10:44. The Duplicolor actually seems pretty close. And it's readily available. 13:28 And why does that canister look like an empty can of beans? Oh...Chrysler, gotta love ya.
I call it a coffee can. Haha. The duplicolor is quite close, but that is “GM Blue,” not “Chrysler Blue.” No one has the Chrysler color in stock anymore… that’s going to be a problem.
I thought the made a unit joint with the odd size cross for drive shafts like that...maybe not anymore.
They do. I think it’s a 438? Something like that
Hey Jamie is it me or is the charger running a lil warm maybe you have a 195 thermostat idk but I always get a lil nervous when I see any race or older motors running that warm. When I had my coyote swap fox on dyno the power always starts to go south over 170/175ish but like I said before I’ve been a ford guy for 30 years. Again I love you’re Mopar videos that’s why I’ve been around hear over a year and I was only asking about the temp I know you know you’re mopars
I cut it out of the video for time, but realized that I was misreading the tick marks on that gauge. It is hanging right around 200. For a street driving engine, that’s fine. Less wear and better fuel efficiency around the 190-210 mark. Newer engines are intentionally calibrated to run there - or even higher. It is most likely a 195 stat, which will give an operating temperature just above that. I’m confident it will do fine. Thanks!
Just watching your other videos and noticed something so im gonna try and hope for an answer.. My 69 Charger had the same wobble on the odometer then suddenly stuck on 60 mph, do you know if it’s just a new odometer wire i need or something else?
Love the channel glad to see it get the attention it deserves.
Regards from norway :)
The speedometer cable is the likely cause of the up and down movement, but it shouldn’t be able to stick your speedometer like that. You might pop the cable off the back and see if it is bound up and the gauge goes back down, but unfortunately, you probably need both a speedometer and a speedometer cable at this point.
And thank you!
@@DeadDodgeGarage thank you for the reply😊
As I former marching band geek I find your video highly offensive. Also highly entertaining.
Haaaahaha. I’ve been listening to that marching band play the same fight song for over twenty years, and I’ve had just about enough 🤣 thank you.
I've got one of those too at the school on the next hill. It echoes off of the large building across from mine. Drums sound like a tribe is looming 😂
Life is a garden... dig it. Lol
"Don't try to church it up, son. Your name is *DIRT*!"
@@DeadDodgeGarage Just as sure as god made little green apples. Lol
Some more quality mopar content!! Such a bitchin car
Hey Jamie, you know you can adjust the vacuum advance pot so it doesn't pull as much right?
Kind of. There is an adjusting screw inside some (most?) pods that changes the engagement point, but it doesn’t limit the total advance achieved. That has to be done through mechanical methods - some use a piece of mechanic’s wire apparently. It’s something I’ve read about but have never messed with to this point, but I plan to dive in on that in the future.
@DeadDodgeGarage it adjusts the spring preload that the diaphragm pulls against makes a big difference. It will limit total travel as well if adjusted enough. It's a Alan screw that you access through the vacuum port nipple. At least that way you don't lose.the benefits of vacuum advance for cruising and part throttle
@@Desertwolf426 Good to know. I think learning all this is definitely a good future video project for me.
The air lock release.... .is anused. My lift sucks too.
It’s just not at all ideal. Part of it is my little compressor sucks, but at least one of them would just never do anything but leak air. Which is weird, it was in service right before I got it.
Ok so the vacuum advance thing on boosted applications? I'm confused on that one I'm currently building a twin turbo 318 la and have pondered this many times also power brakes is that even an option?
I’m not totally sure on the inner workings of power brakes with boost, but lots and lots of factory turbo cars have vacuum boosters, so it must work somehow. I think due to the check valve in the booster, there will be vacuum stored even under boost, meaning there is enough present for a good stop until no longer under boost. But I’m not completely sure.
The thinking behind the vacuum advance is this - you use regular manifold vacuum for the vacuum advance signal, meaning it is always in play and advancing the timing at idle, and (likely utilizing a recurved distributor and custom amount of advance from the vacuum unit,) you account for that vacuum advance in your timing curve. Under boost, the vacuum advance will be fully disengaged, taking away whatever amount of timing it allows. If your vacuum pod yields 17 degrees of advance like this one does, *all* of that will be gone as soon as the turbo builds any boost, which will likely be too much, and will rob a bunch of power, among other things. But with some careful tuning and science, it could be used to boost reference your ignition timing, subtract a suitable amount, and prevent detonation.
Thanks man
Are those 295's in the back? What kind of wheels are on that car?
Yep! Centerlines!
Well, I didn't see anything to comment on in this video. Oh wait! It's not raining there!
Not yet…
Some guys say the fresh Motors that get beat as soon as you drop them in are the fastest Motors!😂 I've never had the nerve to try that, because I'm not a millionaire!😂 and I didn't want to scatter my freshly rebuilt big block Chevy all over the street!
Yes I’ve heard that “drive it how you’re going to drive it” kind of thing a good few times. A friend recalls firing up a brand new engine and immediately doing donuts. It lived a long and happy life. Definitely need to build some cylinder pressure so a bit of beans here and there is fine. Just don’t want to beat the snot out of it while it’s still fresh, at least in my opinion.
Do you know what mufflers are under the car? Sounds great
I can’t remember exactly. I always get asked this, I need to start writing down what mufflers are in what car…
@@DeadDodgeGarage It's fine. Too many cars too many mufflers... I get that
But if you have a wild fever dream that isn't all about corn dogs or mail trucks and you somehow remember that muffler.
Let me know 😀
Ps. I'm kinda jealous of your 68 charger that's a mint car
But it is well there's a Marshal's in there and file them out to fit the dejoint and well demanded and stacked him up to put the metal back in the yolk then you wouldn't have any problem a better way of cobbling
Those words literally make no sense at all.
Jamie...question sir....the 46RE in my '90 RamCharger is FUBAR....
1. I could save up $2800 to $3000 for a Jasper
2. Source the parts and re-build it myself
3. Find a junkyard trans of the same "flavor".....
my question is....which other Dodges shared the 46RE/A518??..... that I could just shove another trans in there without too much hassle
I Appreciate your "Dodge Whispering Ways".....
Is it factory? That wouldn’t be an RE, it’s a 46RH. Pickups used those through ‘96. The later electronic 46RE is similar, but won’t shift itself without the intervention of electronics. In my experience, just about every used one you’ll find is going to be junk too… it is probably worth sending the money to Jasper. If you think you’re handy enough to rebuild it, go for it! I’ve done it… it didn’t work out, let’s just say that. But I hope to get better at that at some point.
It's an RH....youre absolutey right about that....really I just changed the fluid and filter and found a magical world of silvery sludge and "hairy magnets"...so.....yes ..it's time to source a rebuilt...apparently Jasper has been kicking claims back so I'll see if I can source one online @@DeadDodgeGarage
Anyone have any Nice side trim stainless for a short wheelbase 64 Sweptline ?
I certainly don’t…
Does that engine have the magnum water pump on it?
No, it is running all LA accessories.
392 hemi better drive than 408 stroker?
Yes - but the 408 is also really good, much simpler, a better fit, and so much cheaper to do. Obviously the EFI and six speed help the drivability on the hemi side. Haha.
Geez it sounds like a quadrajet
Does it though?
I'm here, what did I miss?
…breakfast?
@@DeadDodgeGarage As the great hobbits once said..... What about second breakfast?
@@bigwrenchtech "I don't think he knows about second breakfast, Pip."
Salut my friend super car super video subscribe subscribe ...
Damn auto carrot
Haaaahaha. Auto carrot. I love it.
Is it me or after doing aton of work and not 100% if it will work and covered in grease and tired as hell i just jump in and drive far away for a bite to eat and not give a fuck if it breaks
I can’t say that has ever been my method precisely - but you’ve gotta test it!
@@DeadDodgeGarage it's even better if you do it in the middle of the night so if you break down you are really screwed. Haven't failed to make it back yet
I’ll never be able to own a dodge charger, any time I wanted to buy one for a slightly good deal at 60K someone always outbid me, some old fat dude with millions just buys them and never drives them. If I did manage to somehow find a dodge charger I wouldn’t be able to drive it because zero mechanics in NY state will work on classic cars and only Chevys…I could not fix it myself because I don’t have a garage or tools, my X wife stole my house and tools. Even if I found a classic charger for sale at a classic dealership I’m sure I would be scammed.
Ugh. It's really tough out there. I wasn't sure I would ever have one either. I made a couple decent life decisions and got really, really lucky - and mine is far from perfect. But it's better than I ever thought I'd have.
@@DeadDodgeGarage don’t mind me, I’m a grumpy old man, get off my lawn you kids! I could never buy a charger that needed body work, I don’t trust any NY garages and I know it would cost millions to repair. My only chance is buy a rust free example with a 318 and later drop it off at your shop to have a 440 installed 😜
@@charlieb308 Well... that would work! Haha. There are lots and lots of people (young and grumpy alike) that want a Charger and can't get one - that's a big part of why the prices have gotten so stupid. It's a problem...
You. Need. A. Manudo. Can
Do I? Lol
Why does the car have a 205 thermostat it should be 180 will let the fuel be 25 degree's cooler under hood and be a little richer
It doesn’t, it has a 195. Why would we want it to be a little richer? We want it to be as lean as possible without melting itself to pieces.
Your a Chevy guy i take it, you don't know much about old Mopar's they like to run cool 180 is stock thermostat on all 1960- 72 Mopar the cooler the under hood temp is the better. Expecially Big cubic inch engine's that make allot of engine heat. @@DeadDodgeGarage
@@jmendo2546 I'm a Chevy guy?! I'm a FUCKING CHEVY GUY?! I've had some insults thrown my way in the comments, but that one takes the god damn cake! How many Chevys do you see on my channel, exactly? I have been living and breathing old Mopars for longer than I have had a driver's license. You would need both hands and at least one foot to count the number of classic Mopars on my property right now. There are almost a dozen LA engines in my shop right now. At the *Mopar only* restoration shop I work at a few days a week, I am currently building a factory detail correct, numbers matching 440 for a fucking wing car. I KNOW OLD MOPARS. I also happen to know a good bit about modern engine technology and regular cars, and if you do too, then you may well know that hotter operating temperatures lead to less engine wear and better fuel economy, and are commonplace today. This engine has the Magnum's factory rated 195 thermostat - and it's fucking fine. It also has a giant aluminum radiator and dual electric fans. A cooler operating temperature is not necessarily what you want. Ask any old schooler and they'll tell you that you need to run a 160 thermostat. No.
Lol expected
I hate it when a marching band plays smash mouth. But nirvana is even worse 😡
Copycat
Me?
What a turd
What is the backspace and wheel size and tire size on the rear of your red charger?? Thank you
It’s like 15x11, and the back spacing? Not enough… it appears to measure 4”. If it was 4.5”, I wouldn’t have tire rub. 5” might even fit with the springs in the stock locations.
maybe your from canada? A
The Washington State coast, which apparently is like… Canada light?
Externally Balanced small block Mopar’s are junk chargers need big blocks not small blocks son
Ok buddy