great! many yesrs ago i tried to repair k-jetronik too, the best way i found was throw it away and instal carburator :) I changed rubber gasket on every injector (sprayer) and also disasembled injector dispenser and also had many leaks :) Now i watch many youtube clips and know that leaks have 100% of people who disaseble dispenser. Of course Your stainless steel plate in injector dispenser can be changed if it has wearout, and often it has it Also I found that people rather change the whole injector dispenser to used one, without disasembling :)
Enjoyed the video thanks, your right you can adjust the metering head using an Allen key down that little tube, atleast that's how it was on my golf, but you should only ever adjust it with the engine off. Your also right in saying adjusting it doesn't just effect the idle, but the whole rev range. I've got a kjet manual in PDF format which I could send in an email if you were interested and if I could still find it that is!
I once owned one of these cars, a very rare automatic Anniversary model with beautiful grey leather. But it had had a hard life and was in poor health. Sometimes it would run, sometimes it wouldn't. One day it broke down on a carpark, it simply wouldn't start and as it was late I locked it up and got a lift home. I rang the breakdown service and arranged to meet them at the car next day. I went back next morning with some tools and started checking it. Looking at connectors and pulling at cables, then one cable just pulled away in my hand, the copper strands had just rotted away. It was an earth (ground) cable that was disconnected from a threaded stud that was welded to a chassis crossmember directly under the radiator. There were many cables connected to that stud and every one just pulled away by hand, they were all rotten. I had a box of crimp connectors and remade every connection, cleaned all the dirty steel and reconnected all the cables and clamped them down. I couldn't try the starter because I had run the battery flat so waited for the breakdown truck. When he arrived I told him what I'd done so he put his jump cables on the battery and it fired straight up. We left it running for a while and stopped and started it a number of times and I never had any more starter trouble after. That threaded stud was the main earthing point for all main systems, what a silly place to put it.
K-jet is awesome but it relies on very precise pressures. You need to measure and correct both the system and control pressure. The fuel accumulator won't affect starting. P.S. Loved the look inside the fuel distributor.
Firstly, if there was adequate fuel, the cold start valve should have fired the engine for a moment. Secondly, the "small" diameter distributor rotors are notorious for shorting into the distributor shaft. You will see spark externally BUT that does not indicate a good, strong spark at the plugs under compression. Anxious to see more of this resurrection. Thanks!
The disconnection philosophy as described in the 1970s book _'Zen and the art of Motorcycle Maintenance'_ where the idea is put forward that we shouldn't own anything until we understand fully how it works and can fix it ourselves. Which, I suspect, is why I get so upset when so much of my stuff breaks down.🙂
As they often said on Mythbusters, "Failure is always an option", because we learn from failures, mistakes and oopsies for when we try again in the future, everything's a learning process, and we don't have to understand it to be able to fix it, I'm like that with electronics, it's all magic to me, but I enjoy fixing it anyway... :)
i think you need to check every where for vacuum leaks. The K jet is very sensitive to any un-metered air entering the intake. there is also a sensor/ pot type on the throttle plate that wears out
Loved your episode. Please keep them coming. Your observations about the nature of failure and it's relationship to learning are spot on. This episode's content was perfectly timed for me. I'm a recreational mechanic who is working on the k-jet of a non starting Volvo 242. I felt like I was in your shoes as you went to work on the fuel distributor. By the time fuel hits the cylinder it has passed through 5 separate fine mesh filters. Fuel tank sock, fuel filter, filter inside distributor around central piston, each individual CD output valve has a little basket filter, and then again in the injector nozzle. Talk about overkill. In my case I determined that fuel arrived at the distributor but did not pass through to the injector nozzle by removing the nozzles and placing them in clear plastic water bottles. When I fired the pump and lifted the air meter lever almost no fuel came out of the nozzles. I see a fuel distributor rebuild in my future. Cheers.
I had K-jet in my 4 cylinder 2 litre Porsche 924. There was a 5th injector in the plenum chamber or maybe in your inlet manifold on the SAAB. Although the K-jet is mechanical fuel injection... there is one electronic fuel injector that needs a 12v supply during cold start cranking. Make sure this injector gets a 12v supply when turning over the engine. There will also be a bi-metal temperature switch on the cylinder block somewhere. The temperature switch interrupts the supply to the 5th (cold start) injector when the engine is warm because it is not needed for hot starting. This switch may be stuck open.
De är mycket viktigt att man har tillräckligt med systemtryck (det är särskild högtryckspump på K-Jet och ska inte förväxlas med vanliga pumpar som t.ex. till LH 2.x) sen måste styrtrycksventilen vara hel. Har man låg CO så kan de bli svårstartade. Har man bränslepumpen igång så kan man trycka upp luftmängmätarskivan fram och tillbaks "choke" starta och hålla lite gas. Man kan ta ur spridarna och sätta en flaska till varje spridare, bygla bränslerelät så bensinpumpen går hela tiden, tryck upp luftmängdmätarskivan så ser man om det kommer bensin, hur sprut bilden ser ut, och att det kommer samma mängs från alla spridare.
Thanks for the video. Loved your bit about alienation from our surroundings. Even though you brought it up in another context, it is totally true. I think there was a german philosopher who really delved into the concept of alienation. I think his name sounded a bit like Marl Karx or something like that.
Great video! Thanks for this attempt and showing the inside of k-jet. Thanks for inspiring us to try fix something. I love all the lessons learned including failures :). I'm just so thankful my 240 has lh2.2 fuel system 🤣
Another brilliant video. I like showing all my failures and mistakes (and there are plenty!) as it hopefully will stop others from repeating them. Watching successful repairs 100% of the time can be dull. A little failure is real life, for every success, there are probably ten failures. I think a little sealer will cure the housing leak. I'm sure you will fix it!
really good video. i think a thin layer of liquid gasket does the trick. there is much stuff that need to work for the K-jetronic system to work correctly. tempsensor, accumulator or how it spells =), fuelpump, and many more small things as you already know =) i think youre gonna fix it =)
There is a pressure regulator that also "feels" the engine temp... I am suspecting that at the moment.. But I got to get it inside and try to be a bit methodical this time...
Even though it was "failure" that it might not have been the culprit, I do find your videos and inspiring and hope to be able to put things together one day, even though I struggle to put together my computer mouse when I clean it! Wish me luck lol
Thanks for this video. Seems that I may have the same problem. Took my 1986 for a first drive, parked it and wouldn't start the next day. I have bee trouble shooting since. Any luck?
Not a failure. Simply learning. Since the engine started when you lifted the plate (system toward Rich) is there a possibility it’s currently too lean to start? I am no K jetronic authority (not even close) but if memory serves there was usually cold start enrichment facility. (Aux air valve/cold start injector). I am certain you have considered this, and quite sure this would not have escaped your attention. Good luck. It’s entertaining to follow. Cheers 🍻
@@SeasideGarage Desværre nej jeg ved hvordan det virke, men har aldrig haft indsprøjtnings hovedet adskilt. De fleste fejl er dårlige dyser, og lavt benzintryk, det er min erfaring med det system
Back in the early 80's I worked as a BMW tech in NJ, usa. One simple step is to pull the injectors, and place them on a piece of cardboard laying on the valve cover. Jump the fuel pump relay and reach in and lift the arm to to get some fuel flowing. The spray pattern is probably a mess. We had a jig that you could attach the injectors to and pump cleaning fluid through, it usually worked quite well. Perhaps a diesel shop could do the same for you. But being at a dealer, we would replace the fuel distributor not repair. Good luck :)
I actually think I could use my "Hydrogas" pump I use for pumping up the Princess and Metro to force some cleaner though the injectors.. But I am not suspecting the injectors to be the main issue at the moment... But its should be done in the future.. :)
I love the content Seppo.I hope the best for you. (finally somewhat caught up in the playlists :D ) I'd want to advise you to check ChrisFix's video on re-upholstering the steering wheel. I dont know how to do something about the center part but color change in the rim would not be a problem I assume. keep up the good work. Commands are counting on you :)
I have also a problem with my K-Jet Turbo and I can say: I hate this piece of shit!! I have a doner Saab 900 T16 and I am thinking about to swap the whole unit! The engine is stronger, the Bosch LH is running properly and the engine has Hydros. The LH injektion needs no adjustment and I think it needs only one wire for power suply.
Extremely poignant message at the beginning of this video keep up the fantastic work!
Loved those Bosch K tronic systems .
Ingenious and simple.
As we say in the UK "every day is a school day", you always learn something even if you don't succeed
great!
many yesrs ago i tried to repair k-jetronik too, the best way i found was throw it away and instal carburator :)
I changed rubber gasket on every injector (sprayer) and also disasembled injector dispenser and also had many leaks :)
Now i watch many youtube clips and know that leaks have 100% of people who disaseble dispenser.
Of course Your stainless steel plate in injector dispenser can be changed if it has wearout, and often it has it
Also I found that people rather change the whole injector dispenser to used one, without disasembling :)
Enjoyed the video thanks, your right you can adjust the metering head using an Allen key down that little tube, atleast that's how it was on my golf, but you should only ever adjust it with the engine off. Your also right in saying adjusting it doesn't just effect the idle, but the whole rev range.
I've got a kjet manual in PDF format which I could send in an email if you were interested and if I could still find it that is!
Yes a manual would be nice thanks! :D
I once owned one of these cars, a very rare automatic Anniversary model with beautiful grey leather. But it had had a hard life and was in poor health. Sometimes it would run, sometimes it wouldn't. One day it broke down on a carpark, it simply wouldn't start and as it was late I locked it up and got a lift home. I rang the breakdown service and arranged to meet them at the car next day.
I went back next morning with some tools and started checking it. Looking at connectors and pulling at cables, then one cable just pulled away in my hand, the copper strands had just rotted away. It was an earth (ground) cable that was disconnected from a threaded stud that was welded to a chassis crossmember directly under the radiator. There were many cables connected to that stud and every one just pulled away by hand, they were all rotten. I had a box of crimp connectors and remade every connection, cleaned all the dirty steel and reconnected all the cables and clamped them down. I couldn't try the starter because I had run the battery flat so waited for the breakdown truck. When he arrived I told him what I'd done so he put his jump cables on the battery and it fired straight up. We left it running for a while and stopped and started it a number of times and I never had any more starter trouble after.
That threaded stud was the main earthing point for all main systems, what a silly place to put it.
Very wierd location for important grounds..... mystery really...
K-jet is awesome but it relies on very precise pressures. You need to measure and correct both the system and control pressure.
The fuel accumulator won't affect starting.
P.S. Loved the look inside the fuel distributor.
Firstly, if there was adequate fuel, the cold start valve should have fired the engine for a moment.
Secondly, the "small" diameter distributor rotors are notorious for shorting into the distributor shaft. You will see spark externally BUT that does not indicate a good, strong spark at the plugs under compression.
Anxious to see more of this resurrection. Thanks!
The disconnection philosophy as described in the 1970s book _'Zen and the art of Motorcycle Maintenance'_ where the idea is put forward that we shouldn't own anything until we understand fully how it works and can fix it ourselves. Which, I suspect, is why I get so upset when so much of my stuff breaks down.🙂
An honest authentic video Thank you for that. Edward
Your wisdom does you proud my friend. Have you watched My Mate Vince on YT...he loves making things work again? Love your passion and no small skill.
M539 restorations had the same leaking metal disc on his K jet tronic. Worthwhile watch his tinkering on it
Great vid as ever thank you 😊
If it was all slick successes I would not be watching. Nor would most others I suspect. Real world reality, that’s the best.
As they often said on Mythbusters, "Failure is always an option", because we learn from failures, mistakes and oopsies for when we try again in the future, everything's a learning process, and we don't have to understand it to be able to fix it, I'm like that with electronics, it's all magic to me, but I enjoy fixing it anyway... :)
I had it easy. I put an 8 valve into a 16v turbo body. All I had to do was modify the fuel rail and bam! EFI 8 valve.
i think you need to check every where for vacuum leaks. The K jet is very sensitive to any un-metered air entering the intake. there is also a sensor/ pot type on the throttle plate that wears out
Loved your episode. Please keep them coming. Your observations about the nature of failure and it's relationship to learning are spot on. This episode's content was perfectly timed for me. I'm a recreational mechanic who is working on the k-jet of a non starting Volvo 242. I felt like I was in your shoes as you went to work on the fuel distributor. By the time fuel hits the cylinder it has passed through 5 separate fine mesh filters. Fuel tank sock, fuel filter, filter inside distributor around central piston, each individual CD output valve has a little basket filter, and then again in the injector nozzle. Talk about overkill. In my case I determined that fuel arrived at the distributor but did not pass through to the injector nozzle by removing the nozzles and placing them in clear plastic water bottles. When I fired the pump and lifted the air meter lever almost no fuel came out of the nozzles. I see a fuel distributor rebuild in my future. Cheers.
Mercedessource YT channel has some nice videos on K-Jetronic trouble shooting, fixing, maintenance, etc 👍
The center pin needs to move, very precisely machined. I have worked on them for years
4:37 life-long Kraftwerk fan here. I'm 50, today.
I had K-jet in my 4 cylinder 2 litre Porsche 924. There was a 5th injector in the plenum chamber or maybe in your inlet manifold on the SAAB. Although the K-jet is mechanical fuel injection... there is one electronic fuel injector that needs a 12v supply during cold start cranking. Make sure this injector gets a 12v supply when turning over the engine.
There will also be a bi-metal temperature switch on the cylinder block somewhere. The temperature switch interrupts the supply to the 5th (cold start) injector when the engine is warm because it is not needed for hot starting. This switch may be stuck open.
Thanks! I will go though the system a bit more in-depth next time.. I was just pretty sure that I had found the fault... but apparently not.. :)
There's no failure in trying so good on you for that.
John
De är mycket viktigt att man har tillräckligt med systemtryck (det är särskild högtryckspump på K-Jet och ska inte förväxlas med vanliga pumpar som t.ex. till LH 2.x) sen måste styrtrycksventilen vara hel. Har man låg CO så kan de bli svårstartade. Har man bränslepumpen igång så kan man trycka upp luftmängmätarskivan fram och tillbaks "choke" starta och hålla lite gas.
Man kan ta ur spridarna och sätta en flaska till varje spridare, bygla bränslerelät så bensinpumpen går hela tiden, tryck upp luftmängdmätarskivan så ser man om det kommer bensin, hur sprut bilden ser ut, och att det kommer samma mängs från alla spridare.
tak!
Thanks for the video. Loved your bit about alienation from our surroundings. Even though you brought it up in another context, it is totally true. I think there was a german philosopher who really delved into the concept of alienation. I think his name sounded a bit like Marl Karx or something like that.
hehe.... I think I have read some of that guys stuff.... ;)
Great video! Thanks for this attempt and showing the inside of k-jet. Thanks for inspiring us to try fix something. I love all the lessons learned including failures :). I'm just so thankful my 240 has lh2.2 fuel system 🤣
Vise ord 👍
Another brilliant video. I like showing all my failures and mistakes (and there are plenty!) as it hopefully will stop others from repeating them. Watching successful repairs 100% of the time can be dull. A little failure is real life, for every success, there are probably ten failures.
I think a little sealer will cure the housing leak. I'm sure you will fix it!
I'm about to refresh the fuel system on my 1983 Porsche 928s, it has the same K-jetronic system..... I'm hoping I don't need to strip it.
really good video. i think a thin layer of liquid gasket does the trick. there is much stuff that need to work for the K-jetronic system to work correctly. tempsensor, accumulator or how it spells =), fuelpump, and many more small things as you already know =) i think youre gonna fix it =)
There is a pressure regulator that also "feels" the engine temp... I am suspecting that at the moment..
But I got to get it inside and try to be a bit methodical this time...
@@SeasideGarage yes your right. i think that one is called styrtrycksventil in swedish =)
Even though it was "failure" that it might not have been the culprit, I do find your videos and inspiring and hope to be able to put things together one day, even though I struggle to put together my computer mouse when I clean it!
Wish me luck lol
haha Good luck!
Thanks for this video. Seems that I may have the same problem. Took my 1986 for a first drive, parked it and wouldn't start the next day. I have bee trouble shooting since. Any luck?
Not a failure. Simply learning. Since the engine started when you lifted the plate (system toward Rich) is there a possibility it’s currently too lean to start? I am no K jetronic authority (not even close) but if memory serves there was usually cold start enrichment facility. (Aux air valve/cold start injector). I am certain you have considered this, and quite sure this would not have escaped your attention. Good luck. It’s entertaining to follow. Cheers 🍻
Yes its very much possible... but I find it weird that I don't even get a single detonation or cough from the engine.. even if its lean... :)
trin 1 er at kontrollere benzin trykket, det reguleres efter temperaturen på motoren
trin 2 er faktisk at adskille stemplet som du ikke ville røre
Jeg mistænker tryk reguleringen pt.
Jeg kunne ikke umiddelbart trække stemplet ud, er der nogen tips? :)
@@SeasideGarage Desværre nej jeg ved hvordan det virke, men har aldrig haft indsprøjtnings hovedet adskilt.
De fleste fejl er dårlige dyser, og lavt benzintryk, det er min erfaring med det system
du bør se denne th-cam.com/video/-HdFXsanYNk/w-d-xo.html
han har flere andre gode videoer om udmåling reparation og virkemåde af k jetronic
Back in the early 80's I worked as a BMW tech in NJ, usa. One simple step is to pull the injectors, and place them on a piece of cardboard laying on the valve cover. Jump the fuel pump relay and reach in and lift the arm to to get some fuel flowing. The spray pattern is probably a mess. We had a jig that you could attach the injectors to and pump cleaning fluid through, it usually worked quite well. Perhaps a diesel shop could do the same for you. But being at a dealer, we would replace the fuel distributor not repair. Good luck :)
I actually think I could use my "Hydrogas" pump I use for pumping up the Princess and Metro to force some cleaner though the injectors..
But I am not suspecting the injectors to be the main issue at the moment... But its should be done in the future.. :)
I love the content Seppo.I hope the best for you. (finally somewhat caught up in the playlists :D )
I'd want to advise you to check ChrisFix's video on re-upholstering the steering wheel. I dont know how to do something about the center part but color change in the rim would not be a problem I assume.
keep up the good work. Commands are counting on you :)
I have also a problem with my K-Jet Turbo and I can say: I hate this piece of shit!! I have a doner Saab 900 T16 and I am thinking about to swap the whole unit! The engine is stronger, the Bosch LH is running properly and the engine has Hydros. The LH injektion needs no adjustment and I think it needs only one wire for power suply.
Not a failure, look at it as a opportunity to succeed🤔
Thinking that awesome car needs a modern haltec type ECU with modern injectors. 250 angry horses await you.
Reverse switch