My 16 yr old son has a lawn care business and he has been struggling with the typical starting issues. I came across this and tried it with him tonight. Worked like a champ. Thanks for helping create a perfect father/son teaching moment. It was very fun and rewarding
The only real problem I have had in 7 yrs of owning this Timecutter. Mowed once a couple of weeks ago and yesterday nothing. Thought it was the battery so I bought a new one($60 Lowe’s), nope, so charged the old one all night. This morning, clunks. Watched several videos and thought for sure it was the starter solenoid. Replaced that($18 autozone) and still nothing. Found your video. Whoever designed that POS controller has a special place in hell reserved. Your solution worked like a charm! Thanks.
Thank You!!! you saved my sanity... I had checked everything... and blamed my kids and wife for playing with it and breaking it...lol....Followed your instructions and it works fine. I was able to mow the lawn... Very Grateful!
THANK YOU. This is exactly what I needed. Replaced the solenoid and couldn't understand why the brake just kept engaging. Not going to run a full diagnostic right now so this will 100% do. Thank you.
Toro Mx5050 here, and this worked like a charm, I think the wires were even in the same location in the plug. Thanks very much for taking the time to make this video it is much appreciated.
Hey! I have the same mower. Would your blades engage after bypassing the brake controller. If so, do you recall what you did. I understand it's been a year or so.
Thanks, saved the day! Worked perfect on my MX5060. As mentioned previously the wire locations in the harness are different, but wire colors are the same. I did also remove the brake controler and tied up the brake rods.
I expect this mower will last several seasons with decent care. th-cam.com/users/postUgkx1VWTrayKBdCKAjzAcZ_Eg4dhHTae3LkN also recommend Also, I ran across the problem with it not starting the 2nd time I used it. There is a safety switch which is pushed in by the chute or mulching piece being attached to the deck. I took the cover off and it wouldn't start. Put it back on, no problem. It takes only a minute with 2 easily accessible wingnuts and no tools. This mower starts up first crank each time and it is a joy to use. It also mows in reverse by putting the key to the reverse area after starting and pushing in the triangular button. It will stay in reverse mode until you turn it off. All in all, for my homeowner needs, I really like this mower-and at 70 bucks a cut here in Miami, it's already more than 1/3 paid for itself in a month.
Thank you for mentioning the wire colors that required jumping. I have an MX-5060 and the wires were aligned differently on the connector. Once I realized that, jumping them was a piece of cake. Also, when I started it and tried to move it, one of the wheels was locked up. I removed the linkage from that crappy brake controller to the transmission, and it's running like a champ. I've struggled with the POS for 5 years. Finally, I think it might work for a month or two without locking up.
Thank you so much youre a life saver, our module on a 2022 model just quit it maybe has only 20 hours on it. The plug was a little different but i just connected same color wires and she roared back to life MANY THANKS GOD BLESS
A few days ago my Toro about the same age as this one. I figured out that it was indeed the parking brake. I removed the brake control module. It corrected the issue. I also installed a new ignition switch because the original one came apart. I located another BCM but am debating on whether or not to put it back into the circuit. Ive had this mower for at least 10 years now. It’s been a good one until this happened. Ive worked on the deck a few times. Other than that it keeps on cutting. Thanks for the video. It helped a lot.👍
He’s 100% right though, you are defeating a safety feature. I have identical surgical scars on my left forearm from defeating a tractor safety mechanism and in the process, got my arm broken in four places…. And was extremely lucky that was the extent of my injuries.
@@CP-ux9zd yes, I used this as a temporary measure to get my mower off the lawn so extreme caution should be used and the mower should be repaired ASAP.
Worked perfectly. Thank you. I can repeat the comment by others to follow the wiring colors, not locations... my wires were in different connector slots than shown in the video.
I've had three Toro Time cutters. The brake module is one of the problems you're going to have. I just bypass the switch like he has done in the video. Also, another problem I have is with the deck adjustment because once you bump into something the deck latch on the driver's side will jump out of the holder ad you will be pretty much dragging your deck beyond the lowest setting. The upside-down hook seems to be a bad idea as it bends and jumps out of place. I use a few heavy-duty prybars bend the metal back into place and wrap some baling wire to keep in from jumping off again and it seems to work for a long time. I've also had a problem with the spring going to the clutch, but I think that might have been an isolated issue.
I've had huge problems with the Timecutter electrical.. replaced every switch, solenoid, PTO, Brake Controller over the years. starter has a dead spot which appears to occasionally jam against the flywheel. Now it's back to No Start again.. turns out the start switch is getting hot again and either the fuel solenoid or ignition ON is flakey. wiggle the starter switch connector and things start clicking.. loose connection. Looks like another starter switch for me or more wiring to defeat interlocks. Total trash electrically, but awesome mower as been modified. Hydrostatic drives are STRONG! Deck is trash as well, bent my entire deck about 3 degrees hitting a big rock. Welded in more steel, hub braces, skirt reinforcement, majorily improved deck air flow, crossed blades. Wowza! Will suck the chrome off of trailer hitches now..
Love it I will surely try to monkey mine too else I will have to spend money on the module then along the way this thing will need to be replaced again Thank you for the video. You have not told us what to do with the brakes bracket connecting to the module. Should I put the module back and hook them up like it was or should I just disconnect the brakes bracket and throw them away or put them away? I understand I will not hold you responsible for the answer…I will take full responsibility for my actions.
Man oh man you saved my day 😢mine want crank and also that brake control box will not switch back and forth it will not crank jumping the solenoid I guess the safety feature for the and everything else but thanks again 😁 I'm going to put the green and black and pink and yellow together tomorrow and hopefully it cranks I will let you know
I wish they made these a little more reliable. Constant issues with the safety switches and mysteries why it doesn't start sometimes. This is great info to get the f-ing thing mowing.
Yeah I realized I had bought a product engineered to fail so I sold it for $1500 and bought myself a Gravely commercial mower. Problem solved, and it has a mechanical hand brake.
Video is old, but, I've just done this to my toro, the fuel didn't shut off when turning the key off? Shouldn't the fuel shut off be on a switch if bypassing?
Dan, impressed with you video showing exactly what I want to do with my TORO. My plan will be to set up a handbrake connected to the controller brake arms so that I can have a manual brake. Also, I plan to wire thru the seat and mower safeties so that these are functional. I don't think I need to handles safety??? I've gone thru 3 controllers. Any suggestions?
That's really the best way to do it. It boggles my mind why they did it this way, and why it's so unreliable. Manual handbrakes are what all of the commercial mowers use, and for good reason: THEY WORK! I ended up just throwing a new controller on and selling the mower. Bought a Gravely to replace it.
Disclaimer: Anytime you touch the safety system on a lawn mower, you do so at you're own risk. Please use common sense when working with these systems !!! After looking at this video and the wiring diagram for my Toro 74633 / 313009502, this fix isn't a good choice. If you're completely bypassing the module you will see an issue with engine cutoff or kill. The mag wire goes into the module and since the module is the heart of the safety system, it's going to ground this wire in the event you come off the seat or turn the key switch off. Turning the key off in most ( my )cases will kill the fuel solenoid and the engine will shut off after a couple of seconds. However, if my butt comes unglued the mower will still run. If the blades are engaged, something could go horribly wrong. He mentions the fuel solenoid and the module. In my case, the fuel solenoid is wired outside of the module. This means you should hear it click when the key is turned on. This is NOT part of the safety system. But I am only looking at the wiring diagram for the above mower... However, a relay could be added for the kill system and wired into the seat safety switch for safe operation. Since I need to do this mod ( bad module ) I will look into the wiring and see what I can't fix. Hit me up if you have questions. Please include your Model & Serial #'s or I WILL NOT help. Not all wiring or safety systems are the same. Christian aka Terminal Frost - here, Unfocused_Adventure on IG
I completely agree. This is just something I did to get the mower working so I could mow my lawn while my replacement unit arrived. I definitely don't recommend keeping this configured that way.
Just got a timecutter 50 inch and thinking about doing this before it even gets a chance to mess up when I’m in the middle of a customers yard would you recommend it it’s a newer model so not sure if it’s the same wires as you show in the video
Proceed with caution. This is only a temporary measure to allow you to cut your grass and nothing else. You will not have a parking brake while it’s bypassed, which is a safety concern. If you had a way to install a manual parking brake, I’d do it for sure.
I was already think of coming up with a manual parking brake I just wanted to know if I do this can I run it this way forever I understand the brake will no longer work wich really shouldn’t affect me because the only time it’s on any ways is when it’s on my trailer and the handles are out but I have chalks that I drive into on my trailer that keeps it from going anywhere weather there’s a brake or not
My problem was that the mower would die when I pulled in the steering handles. This fixed my problem. The mower won't shut off as soon as I turn it off but it will die after a few seconds. I think it just runs out of gas after the fuel switch is de-energized. I actually have an exmark quest it seems they are the same
Exactly. Runs out of fuel because you've lost the "kill" wire for the ignition coil. The reason this fixed the problem is the module was bad or the seat switch is bad.
Zero turns with this electric brake module are wired much different than any other mower. So if you’re trying to diagnose an electrical problem, nothing makes sense. When you test the ignition switch you’ll be like,” what the hell?!”. Lol
Believe I have same issue with 2020 5000 model 75750, but a 10-wire harness. Tried it following wire colors indicated with no luck. Won’t even start. Thoughts?
See my comment above. Remove the linkage from the brake controller to the transmission. On the MX-5060, there is just one pin to pull at the transmission end and one at the brake controller to remove the linkage bar.
I removed my brake rods a few years ago, runs fine without em, but now the safety switches shut my engine of as soon as I pull the handles in, I jumped like the video says but the mower will not move, any suggestions??? Thanks in advance.
@@davesdigitalmarketing on my cub cadet the reverse safety switches had 3 blue wires running to each side that simply needed all wired together with a wire nut and now it mows forward and in reverse. Not sure if toro is same but if the wires are all same color id assume it will work
ok thanks@@AndreiDPop- i think i've tried everything. replaced battery, spark plug, solenoid, banged the brake controller with wood (saw that on youtube), and then your method. nothing. which also means I cant move it
Had same problem with my Toro Model SW4200 (74784) - runs after bypass but no blade engagement. My manual includes an electical schematic - near the back of manual after troubleshooting. On this model, the PTO (mower engagement) is routed through the brake box module. In my case, I had to jump the "PTO State" wire (Blue / White Stripe) to the "PTO Clutch" wire (Brown). This allows the blades to engage from the pull switch. As many others have indicated, these jumpers bypass a number of safety systems. With the PTO jumper, your blades will keep turning if you get off the seat, etc. so use with extreme caution. I ordered a new brake module for mine but am using the jumper arrangement to get me by until it arrives. Very disappointed in Toro for tying so many Interlock featues into the brake module that appears to be very prone to failure.
My brake controller has been getting progressively weaker last couple years especially when I engage key & hydrostat rods to manually push/move mower into/out of garage. It’s like the brake controller unlocks but then I get a little gear noise and the rods to controller slip tiny bit locking wheels. Springtime related, 2nd year in a row I’ve had to remove and test both little lever arm neutral safety switches so it doesn’t stall when pulling in handles. I “THINK” my ignition switch has been progressively corroding (thus) affecting the current to brake controller. Good battery goes dead if “left sitting” hooked up two weeks due to parasitic draw. Ignition Switch just fell apart minutes ago right after getting neutral switches working. New ignition switch on the way, but anyone care to comment on theory of old crusty ignition switch affecting brake controller performance?
The arm neutral switches rarely go bad. However the seat switch will. 2 wire switch is easy to jump, a 4 wire switch needs a little more work... Your question. Low voltage through the switch causing delayed or no response. Relays don't work well with low voltage.
@@terminalfrost3358 The new ignition switch has helped the brake controller (BC) considerably, but a few times NOW acts like it’s 100% opposite of where it needs to be requiring a cycling of key, waiting, and then hoping for the starter to engage. Multi-tested the seat switch, & both lever switches, so future diagnosing is ongoing to catch this intermittent issue. Few other changes, I installed a battery cutoff (knob type) to unhook current when not mowing, I use backpack blower to remove all damp grass from everywhere, & I’m never keeping it outside in the elements (even under a tarp). Maybe the starter solenoid wants new wire terminal ends sometime this summer. Likely my occasionally exposing mower to elements (light rain several times when garage full) has caused my issues.
@@8m617 make sure your battery is good and then go through the process of testing for a voltage drop. This module will not work correctly when voltage drops below 11. Also check cranking voltage. This should not drop below 10 when cranking. A little bit of water won't kill it unless you have corrosion present.
Also, after re-reading your original post. The defective iggy switch can cause a voltage draw/drain. Especially if it was in poor shape as you said. Replace the switch and then test.
@@terminalfrost3358 I usually (past couple years) had various levels of last minute recharging on battery if I did not unhook it manually after mowing. Something had been running battery down but now with the cutoff, I won’t ever give it a chance when not in use. Likely was crusty ignition switch corrosion is my guess. Never have tested battery cranking but it sometimes does cut out (likely from varying charge levels). Battery is only one year old & stayed inside this winter. I’ll move checking crank voltage up on my diagnostic list. Original starter solenoid & wiring never unhooked from it & they are crusty. Now wondering if starter solenoid can “progressively” have less throughput due to unseen corrosion. Next best step might be to redo all wiring & throw on a new solenoid if I hear comments that they can progressively go bad. Originally thought starter solenoid was either functioning or NOT functioning, but might be the weak link now. Thanks for the replies which help me consider new areas to concern myself with.
Toro went from having a reputation as a decent mower brand to complete crap because of this one part. I steer everyone away from anything made by Toro now.
Yep. I actually sold my mower over this issue. I looked at exmark but avoided those also because I knew they were made by Toro. I ended up with a Gravely. The actual defining reason I didn't go with an exmark was the lack of a usable cupholder and storage on the Radius models.
Mine does not have a harness that the brake module. Just about a dozen of wires that go into the module. Had to take all kinds of stuff off just just to get the brake module out. I hate engineers! They don't give a damn about how they design the product to make it so you can work on them ! All they want to do is sell the product and make money off of you. I won't be buying another Toro ever again.
My bad. The harness is located under the cover of the brake module. You have to take the cover off of the brake module to get to where you can unplug the harness.
My 16 yr old son has a lawn care business and he has been struggling with the typical starting issues. I came across this and tried it with him tonight. Worked like a champ. Thanks for helping create a perfect father/son teaching moment. It was very fun and rewarding
This is my 4th year of trouble free service, until three days ago. You saved me $130. Thank you.
The only real problem I have had in 7 yrs of owning this Timecutter. Mowed once a couple of weeks ago and yesterday nothing. Thought it was the battery so I bought a new one($60 Lowe’s), nope, so charged the old one all night. This morning, clunks. Watched several videos and thought for sure it was the starter solenoid. Replaced that($18 autozone) and still nothing. Found your video. Whoever designed that POS controller has a special place in hell reserved. Your solution worked like a charm! Thanks.
After watching your video I fix my Touro time cutter I can’t thank you enough 2:56
@@JohnMorel-g4l glad to help!
Thank You!!! you saved my sanity... I had checked everything... and blamed my kids and wife for playing with it and breaking it...lol....Followed your instructions and it works fine. I was able to mow the lawn... Very Grateful!
Your the greatest to ever do it lol, fought with this problem for 3 hours & you help me get it started in 2 mins
@@sadfrgameplay6478 glad to hear this helped!
THANK YOU. This is exactly what I needed. Replaced the solenoid and couldn't understand why the brake just kept engaging. Not going to run a full diagnostic right now so this will 100% do. Thank you.
After my 2nd brake module went out, I decided to bypass it. Thanks for the video. Worked perfectly. 😊
Toro Mx5050 here, and this worked like a charm, I think the wires were even in the same location in the plug. Thanks very much for taking the time to make this video it is much appreciated.
Hey! I have the same mower. Would your blades engage after bypassing the brake controller. If so, do you recall what you did. I understand it's been a year or so.
Thanks, saved the day! Worked perfect on my MX5060. As mentioned previously the wire locations in the harness are different, but wire colors are the same. I did also remove the brake controler and tied up the brake rods.
I expect this mower will last several seasons with decent care. th-cam.com/users/postUgkx1VWTrayKBdCKAjzAcZ_Eg4dhHTae3LkN also recommend Also, I ran across the problem with it not starting the 2nd time I used it. There is a safety switch which is pushed in by the chute or mulching piece being attached to the deck. I took the cover off and it wouldn't start. Put it back on, no problem. It takes only a minute with 2 easily accessible wingnuts and no tools. This mower starts up first crank each time and it is a joy to use. It also mows in reverse by putting the key to the reverse area after starting and pushing in the triangular button. It will stay in reverse mode until you turn it off. All in all, for my homeowner needs, I really like this mower-and at 70 bucks a cut here in Miami, it's already more than 1/3 paid for itself in a month.
Thank You. Was my Son B party and needed to cut lawn. I copied you and worked for me. Thanks for the info.
Thank you for mentioning the wire colors that required jumping. I have an MX-5060 and the wires were aligned differently on the connector. Once I realized that, jumping them was a piece of cake. Also, when I started it and tried to move it, one of the wheels was locked up. I removed the linkage from that crappy brake controller to the transmission, and it's running like a champ. I've struggled with the POS for 5 years. Finally, I think it might work for a month or two without locking up.
12hrs in and found this video. Thanks a ton
Thank you so much youre a life saver, our module on a 2022 model just quit it maybe has only 20 hours on it. The plug was a little different but i just connected same color wires and she roared back to life MANY THANKS GOD BLESS
A few days ago my Toro about the same age as this one. I figured out that it was indeed the parking brake.
I removed the brake control module. It corrected the issue. I also installed a new ignition switch because the original one came apart.
I located another BCM but am debating on whether or not to put it back into the circuit.
Ive had this mower for at least 10 years now. It’s been a good one until this happened.
Ive worked on the deck a few times. Other than that it keeps on cutting. Thanks for the video. It helped a lot.👍
Thanks for the video, on my second brake module in a year, decided to go this route, should have done this to begin with.
Incredible! Had no idea what was happening until I watched this quick and to the point video. Thank you so much!! What a TERRIBLE design by Toro!!
He’s 100% right though, you are defeating a safety feature. I have identical surgical scars on my left forearm from defeating a tractor safety mechanism and in the process, got my arm broken in four places…. And was extremely lucky that was the extent of my injuries.
@@CP-ux9zd yes, I used this as a temporary measure to get my mower off the lawn so extreme caution should be used and the mower should be repaired ASAP.
Worked perfectly. Thank you. I can repeat the comment by others to follow the wiring colors, not locations... my wires were in different connector slots than shown in the video.
Brilliant stuff... different plug layout on my ZS3200S, but the wiring colours are the same - worked a treat :)
Thank you! I have a 2020 model.. The wire harness is different than this video but as long as you get the colors correct it still works perfect
I've had three Toro Time cutters. The brake module is one of the problems you're going to have. I just bypass the switch like he has done in the video. Also, another problem I have is with the deck adjustment because once you bump into something the deck latch on the driver's side will jump out of the holder ad you will be pretty much dragging your deck beyond the lowest setting. The upside-down hook seems to be a bad idea as it bends and jumps out of place. I use a few heavy-duty prybars bend the metal back into place and wrap some baling wire to keep in from jumping off again and it seems to work for a long time. I've also had a problem with the spring going to the clutch, but I think that might have been an isolated issue.
Thank you! Solved my issue and allowed me to mow 👍
Thanks for posting this up I’m back up and running 👍
Saved my day Dan.
This is my second Timecutter. I like the mower over all but this controller is junk.
I've had huge problems with the Timecutter electrical.. replaced every switch, solenoid, PTO, Brake Controller over the years. starter has a dead spot which appears to occasionally jam against the flywheel. Now it's back to No Start again.. turns out the start switch is getting hot again and either the fuel solenoid or ignition ON is flakey. wiggle the starter switch connector and things start clicking.. loose connection. Looks like another starter switch for me or more wiring to defeat interlocks. Total trash electrically, but awesome mower as been modified. Hydrostatic drives are STRONG! Deck is trash as well, bent my entire deck about 3 degrees hitting a big rock. Welded in more steel, hub braces, skirt reinforcement, majorily improved deck air flow, crossed blades. Wowza! Will suck the chrome off of trailer hitches now..
Just wanted to say thanks for sharing your solution. Problem solved here too. :o)
Love it
I will surely try to monkey mine too else I will have to spend money on the module then along the way this thing will need to be replaced again
Thank you for the video.
You have not told us what to do with the brakes bracket connecting to the module.
Should I put the module back and hook them up like it was or should I just disconnect the brakes bracket and throw them away or put them away?
I understand I will not hold you responsible for the answer…I will take full responsibility for my actions.
Man oh man you saved my day 😢mine want crank and also that brake control box will not switch back and forth it will not crank jumping the solenoid I guess the safety feature for the and everything else but thanks again 😁 I'm going to put the green and black and pink and yellow together tomorrow and hopefully it cranks I will let you know
than you ive been looking for a way to get rid of the safetys and this is my fix
I wish they made these a little more reliable. Constant issues with the safety switches and mysteries why it doesn't start sometimes. This is great info to get the f-ing thing mowing.
Yeah I realized I had bought a product engineered to fail so I sold it for $1500 and bought myself a Gravely commercial mower. Problem solved, and it has a mechanical hand brake.
Beauty! Mine won't engage the cutter unfortunately though any advice ?
Depending on your model; the wire colors will work but youll need to jump them accordingly*
Lol God bless you always brother thx for looking out.
Well Dre, I did the same thing following you video but now the ignition switch won't turn off the engine!
then you have the fuel cutoff solenoid powered the whole time or you managed to bypass the kill wire for the ignition coil.
Video is old, but, I've just done this to my toro, the fuel didn't shut off when turning the key off? Shouldn't the fuel shut off be on a switch if bypassing?
Actually no, I have more issues. 😅 awesome. Love toro, they are eXcElLeNt
Fantastic Project please make more
Dan, impressed with you video showing exactly what I want to do with my TORO. My plan will be to set up a handbrake connected to the controller brake arms so that I can have a manual brake. Also, I plan to wire thru the seat and mower safeties so that these are functional. I don't think I need to handles safety??? I've gone thru 3 controllers. Any suggestions?
That's really the best way to do it. It boggles my mind why they did it this way, and why it's so unreliable. Manual handbrakes are what all of the commercial mowers use, and for good reason: THEY WORK! I ended up just throwing a new controller on and selling the mower. Bought a Gravely to replace it.
@@AndreiDPop Thank you. Appreciate you taking the time!
Disclaimer: Anytime you touch the safety system on a lawn mower, you do so at you're own risk. Please use common sense when working with these systems !!!
After looking at this video and the wiring diagram for my Toro 74633 / 313009502, this fix isn't a good choice. If you're completely bypassing the module you will see an issue with engine cutoff or kill. The mag wire goes into the module and since the module is the heart of the safety system, it's going to ground this wire in the event you come off the seat or turn the key switch off. Turning the key off in most ( my )cases will kill the fuel solenoid and the engine will shut off after a couple of seconds. However, if my butt comes unglued the mower will still run. If the blades are engaged, something could go horribly wrong.
He mentions the fuel solenoid and the module. In my case, the fuel solenoid is wired outside of the module. This means you should hear it click when the key is turned on. This is NOT part of the safety system. But I am only looking at the wiring diagram for the above mower...
However, a relay could be added for the kill system and wired into the seat safety switch for safe operation. Since I need to do this mod ( bad module ) I will look into the wiring and see what I can't fix. Hit me up if you have questions. Please include your Model & Serial #'s or I WILL NOT help. Not all wiring or safety systems are the same.
Christian aka Terminal Frost - here, Unfocused_Adventure on IG
I completely agree. This is just something I did to get the mower working so I could mow my lawn while my replacement unit arrived. I definitely don't recommend keeping this configured that way.
I have a Timecutter 75750 408999. Can’t figure out the wiring. Help out?
Just got a timecutter 50 inch and thinking about doing this before it even gets a chance to mess up when I’m in the middle of a customers yard would you recommend it it’s a newer model so not sure if it’s the same wires as you show in the video
Proceed with caution. This is only a temporary measure to allow you to cut your grass and nothing else. You will not have a parking brake while it’s bypassed, which is a safety concern. If you had a way to install a manual parking brake, I’d do it for sure.
I was already think of coming up with a manual parking brake I just wanted to know if I do this can I run it this way forever I understand the brake will no longer work wich really shouldn’t affect me because the only time it’s on any ways is when it’s on my trailer and the handles are out but I have chalks that I drive into on my trailer that keeps it from going anywhere weather there’s a brake or not
My problem was that the mower would die when I pulled in the steering handles. This fixed my problem. The mower won't shut off as soon as I turn it off but it will die after a few seconds. I think it just runs out of gas after the fuel switch is de-energized. I actually have an exmark quest it seems they are the same
Exactly. Runs out of fuel because you've lost the "kill" wire for the ignition coil. The reason this fixed the problem is the module was bad or the seat switch is bad.
Zero turns with this electric brake module are wired much different than any other mower. So if you’re trying to diagnose an electrical problem, nothing makes sense. When you test the ignition switch you’ll be like,” what the hell?!”. Lol
Believe I have same issue with 2020 5000 model 75750, but a 10-wire harness. Tried it following wire colors indicated with no luck. Won’t even start. Thoughts?
Did you ever figure this out? Also have a 75750 and can’t get the wiring right.
I did this it fixed the starting problem now the right lever doesn’t work
Ty fixed my problem is sec
Mine is a swx5050 and I tried this and the blades won't engage. I have a picture of the schematics if you can please help me out with this.
I did this and it all works but the mower won’t move seems like the clutch won’t engage the wheels. Any suggestions??
See my comment above. Remove the linkage from the brake controller to the transmission. On the MX-5060, there is just one pin to pull at the transmission end and one at the brake controller to remove the linkage bar.
I removed my brake rods a few years ago, runs fine without em, but now the safety switches shut my engine of as soon as I pull the handles in, I jumped like the video says but the mower will not move, any suggestions??? Thanks in advance.
@@davesdigitalmarketing on my cub cadet the reverse safety switches had 3 blue wires running to each side that simply needed all wired together with a wire nut and now it mows forward and in reverse. Not sure if toro is same but if the wires are all same color id assume it will work
thanks a lot!!!!
I tried this and it fired right up, moved about 6’ and died now I have no life whatsoever
Any thoughts?
Check fuses first. then: Possibly the jumper wires aren't making good contact. Your wiring is set up different? Need more info
Thanks, good match on an MX 5000
I need help. Not even this truck will start my tractor
I’d offer help but I got rid of that turd 5 years ago and have been using a commercial gravely since.
ok thanks@@AndreiDPop- i think i've tried everything. replaced battery, spark plug, solenoid, banged the brake controller with wood (saw that on youtube), and then your method. nothing. which also means I cant move it
And fuses too
I did this and the blades wont engage?
Did u figure out how to get them to engage? I'm having sane issue.....
Had same problem with my Toro Model SW4200 (74784) - runs after bypass but no blade engagement. My manual includes an electical schematic - near the back of manual after troubleshooting. On this model, the PTO (mower engagement) is routed through the brake box module. In my case, I had to jump the "PTO State" wire (Blue / White Stripe) to the "PTO Clutch" wire (Brown). This allows the blades to engage from the pull switch. As many others have indicated, these jumpers bypass a number of safety systems. With the PTO jumper, your blades will keep turning if you get off the seat, etc. so use with extreme caution. I ordered a new brake module for mine but am using the jumper arrangement to get me by until it arrives. Very disappointed in Toro for tying so many Interlock featues into the brake module that appears to be very prone to failure.
What wires would I jump for my battery to charge ?@@danpatrick2175
Thank you
Thanks a bunch Buddy.
My mower cranked after bypassing the brake module. However, the blade won't engage. Could you possibly tell me what I didn't do?
wish I could help more. I sold the mower shortly after this and bought a gravely with a manual brake lever.
My brake controller has been getting progressively weaker last couple years especially when I engage key & hydrostat rods to manually push/move mower into/out of garage. It’s like the brake controller unlocks but then I get a little gear noise and the rods to controller slip tiny bit locking wheels. Springtime related, 2nd year in a row I’ve had to remove and test both little lever arm neutral safety switches so it doesn’t stall when pulling in handles. I “THINK” my ignition switch has been progressively corroding (thus) affecting the current to brake controller. Good battery goes dead if “left sitting” hooked up two weeks due to parasitic draw. Ignition Switch just fell apart minutes ago right after getting neutral switches working. New ignition switch on the way, but anyone care to comment on theory of old crusty ignition switch affecting brake controller performance?
The arm neutral switches rarely go bad. However the seat switch will. 2 wire switch is easy to jump, a 4 wire switch needs a little more work...
Your question. Low voltage through the switch causing delayed or no response. Relays don't work well with low voltage.
@@terminalfrost3358 The new ignition switch has helped the brake controller (BC) considerably, but a few times NOW acts like it’s 100% opposite of where it needs to be requiring a cycling of key, waiting, and then hoping for the starter to engage. Multi-tested the seat switch, & both lever switches, so future diagnosing is ongoing to catch this intermittent issue. Few other changes, I installed a battery cutoff (knob type) to unhook current when not mowing, I use backpack blower to remove all damp grass from everywhere, & I’m never keeping it outside in the elements (even under a tarp). Maybe the starter solenoid wants new wire terminal ends sometime this summer. Likely my occasionally exposing mower to elements (light rain several times when garage full) has caused my issues.
@@8m617 make sure your battery is good and then go through the process of testing for a voltage drop. This module will not work correctly when voltage drops below 11. Also check cranking voltage. This should not drop below 10 when cranking. A little bit of water won't kill it unless you have corrosion present.
Also, after re-reading your original post. The defective iggy switch can cause a voltage draw/drain. Especially if it was in poor shape as you said. Replace the switch and then test.
@@terminalfrost3358 I usually (past couple years) had various levels of last minute recharging on battery if I did not unhook it manually after mowing. Something had been running battery down but now with the cutoff, I won’t ever give it a chance when not in use. Likely was crusty ignition switch corrosion is my guess. Never have tested battery cranking but it sometimes does cut out (likely from varying charge levels). Battery is only one year old & stayed inside this winter. I’ll move checking crank voltage up on my diagnostic list. Original starter solenoid & wiring never unhooked from it & they are crusty. Now wondering if starter solenoid can “progressively” have less throughput due to unseen corrosion. Next best step might be to redo all wiring & throw on a new solenoid if I hear comments that they can progressively go bad. Originally thought starter solenoid was either functioning or NOT functioning, but might be the weak link now. Thanks for the replies which help me consider new areas to concern myself with.
Toro went from having a reputation as a decent mower brand to complete crap because of this one part. I steer everyone away from anything made by Toro now.
Yep. I actually sold my mower over this issue. I looked at exmark but avoided those also because I knew they were made by Toro. I ended up with a Gravely.
The actual defining reason I didn't go with an exmark was the lack of a usable cupholder and storage on the Radius models.
Awesome
I can't hear it
Just replace the whole thing
@@billmartin7081 that’s what I did. Got a gravely pro turn 152 now.
Hey dan you got any other social platform i can contact you on.
I need to show you a pic and get feed back on knowledge of what i need to do
Use the contact form on cruzekits.com and I can get a hold of you through that. I'd rather not share other info publicly.
This is the reason I wont be getting one.I need something reliable.
I hate that bloody box, over 200 bucks for it over here
Mine does not have a harness that the brake module. Just about a dozen of wires that go into the module. Had to take all kinds of stuff off just just to get the brake module out. I hate engineers! They don't give a damn about how they design the product to make it so you can work on them ! All they want to do is sell the product and make money off of you. I won't be buying another Toro ever again.
I was wrong. The harness was covered by the cover of the brake module and I could not see it till I pulled the whole module out and pulled cover off.
My bad. The harness is located under the cover of the brake module. You have to take the cover off of the brake module to get to where you can unplug the harness.