Beautimous, Brian. Best description and version of a westcoast I've ever seen. Being a wimp I would have been adding another rotation of the standing part after 4-1.
Watching the video again I couldn't help noticing my catahoula pointer beagle dalmation terrier's twin brother, who recently, at 17, moved on to a better place. Thanks!
hats off sir nice job i really admire your work here i never comment on any video but after seeing the hard work of doing this job i could not stop myself from appraising your job thank you very much.
Note: the one way this splice varies from the BC splicing manual is that the core is tucked with strand 4, not as the seventh strand. Our testing showed that when tucked as the seventh strand, the splice is approximately 7% weaker.
I've done thousands of these at our familys sling company as a kid. We used a splicing vice and had a second vice holding the other end which spun around to take the tension out of the rope. Also stood on this side - maybe he's over there for the camera. Also, we just unwound the whole tail to start with rather than the way he's unwinding one at a time. I saw someone mention racing against others. Me and my brother would race, and I can't imagine anyone doing them much faster that we could. Mostly, we were doing 1/2" x 8' slings, but I've done up to 7/8" - that's a beast.
Thank you for the comment Hulio, Where are you located. Competition times are around 2 minutes for 7/8" line. I never really competed although I have done up to 1-1/2" line. Never had the opportunity to splice in a vertical vice either. Would be interesting.
@@briantuor1231 I'm in Houston. Dad had a sling company here for about 25 years. We had the right equipment though - a rigger's vise with the back attachment, whatever it's called, that spins to take tension off. Lot easier to slide the spike in. We only did Flemish eyes in a vertical vise. Nothing unique about that vise, just mounted waist high. I started out making garage door cables at home in our garage - my dad set me up with a hand press. Paid me real well, 10c each IIRC, and I could make 100 in an hour. Which was all the money I needed in the 8th grade, but the customer wanted more; so, I paid my buddies 3c each and watched them work, lol. After college, I became the company sales guy and did safety inspections for our customers. Got to see a lot of manufacturing facilities up close, oil field/offshore. My granddad sold to the E. Tx loggers. He was retired and it gave him something to do. He drove around with a truck full and sold them on the spot to loggers.
@@huliodrives8852 Thanks for replying ,sounds like a good deal to me. A bit of Tom Sawyer in your blood. Lots of good experiences. A Link on wire rope in case you are interested. th-cam.com/video/BX2Iv3CmNJk/w-d-xo.html
Nice job, Brian. What size line is that? It looks like 7/8" or 1". I taught high school forestry at Sweet home High School years ago and this was one of our skills contest events where we used 5/8" line. We had a couple teams that were very good. The best I ever saw though was a team out of Eagle Point, Oregon who did a perfect three tuck eye in 2:30. It was really something to see. The best our teams ever did was a 2:50. There is a good reason we had them wearing safety glasses and bucking chaps. Moving that fast can get dangerous. Again, nice work.
3/4 EIPS. Good to see that it is still being taught in a few places in Oregon. I never competed for time although a friend of mine and I did a 1-1/8" drum line for a cat once in the back of the rigging shop in about 3 minutes or less. We each got new rigging pants and a pair of white ox gloves out of it. A $18 value at the time. so 20x18$ is about $160 per hour each. Not bad for the day.
Before the "Gold Rush" to be a rigger starts, that's $160.00/hr in the shop. Those of us that splice in the field first have to get all our crap to the site. In our case that means whatever barge or fishing boat we're working on. Don't get me wrong, we still clear a good 5, sometimes 6 dollars an hour. Tip: Working on site, your best friend is going to be a mess of 10" (traditional) woodworker's hand screw clamps! Thank You@@briantuor1231
Those were the days. Never wore gloves though because if a wire strand does go in your hand with gloves on you can’t see which way to go to pull it out. It happened a few times.
Note: the one way this varies from the BC splicing manual is that the core is tucked with strand 4, not as the seventh strand. Our testing showed that when tucked as the seventh strand, the splice is approximately 7% weaker.
There are a number of variations on the technique to create this splice. Where I am dropping down two strands and picking up two, you can go in the same hole that the spike is in and go the other way around the core and pick up the same two strands. If you leave the spike in the hole after the second tuck and pull back on it, sometimes it will open up the hole a bit and makes getting a second spike in the back door a bit easier. The tucks are the same just how you pick up the two strands for the second tuck is slightly different. Both ways work. Hope this helps.
Please comment , if this is useful or interesting for you. Good to see who is watching and learning from this. Let us know where you are from, as well.
Nice work! Haven't had to do any splicing for a few years now and I still use railroad spikes lol Haven't seen my "knitting needles" in a while. I learnt to tuck the core on 4... easy to remember. I helped do a skyline spice once.... that was fun, we just did a short long, we were almost done and the line was burnt. With all the mechanical harvesting this is getting to be a lost art. Thanks for posting.
Great that you’re sharing some real skills here. Is there anything done with the jagged ends of the cut wire after the grinder work in your industry? I’m in mining now and have seen them tucked back in to the cable body, or peened down with a hammer when rigging slusher cables.
Most draggers (used to) use 6x7, instead of the 6x19 shown here. Some of it is Tightly laid, some of it is easy to poke. My favorite was always Rochester, which laid on the reel quietly and didn't really rotate much. It had a thick plastic sheath, and it's downfall was it's (made in USA) price, not cheap. 6x7 seems to stay protected by its galvanizing longer than 19 wire strand, naturally. I especially liked the way the Rochester really did not need to be coated with tar. Of course these days many boats are going to dyneema or spectra. In the case of Dux, which (being heat-set or whatever they do to it), is not all that repairable, we have used (tin plated copper! not aluminum) Nicopress sleeves to repair it instead of trying to splice. This has worked out A Lot better than we ever thought it would, in diameters up to 5/8 anyway. The ! is there because on the surface it sounds like the stupidest thing ever, but works like you won't believe. We use a portable NTSC 930 hydraulic press.
Technique with the spike is very helpful. I've been using it wrong. I gather that when you drop down 2 and pick up 2 strands then you say drop down one, you are stepping back one strand and grabbing 2? Or are you progressing down the rope the whole way?
Nice! I hadn’t seen the cable splice since I was a young man. I never accomplished the feat with any degree of mastery. Too bad TH-cam wasn’t available 50 years ago!
Don't know about used but can buy good new ones from "Cleveland Machine" I think they have a website. Woods logging supply, in either Sedro Woolley, or Longview, Washington. Roberts Supply in Springfield, Oregon. Rigging shop in St. Maries , Idaho. Many more.
Why use this type of eye? I know that there is no ferrule and a hundreds of tons press involved with a typical flemish eye but is there a functional reason that a logger's eye is a choice over another type?
Probably because you can do it in the woods, and it is flexible and will go thru a block/pulley and its cheaper if you can do it yourself. It is stronger than most other hand spliced eyes. Doesn't fatigue at the base of the crimped eye.
When I was learning, I did a lot of logger eyes in the straw line for practice. In my day, I could slice an eye in the haulback (7/8)in less than 10 minutes. No hammering the marlin spike. I still remember the first time I spliced the mainline (1 1/4"). Took forever. Biggest line I ever put an eye in was 1 3/8". I never did a true long splice, but did quite a few short longs and short splices. Also the "c" or passing splice. To me, splicing was a specialty, and I took it on.
Quick answer is No. 99% of the time I’ve made a Flemish Eye I was pushed for time and without the tools to tuck the tail. The practice in my industry is to lay the tail strand back into their original position in the wire. Some companies require a wire clamp, clamping the tail to the wirerope. I can say from personal experience making and using 1000s of Flemish Eyes, I have never seen one fail by pulling the eye apart. When they have failed it’s almost always right at the point the strands are separated to form each side of the eye. Which coincides where the natural lay is altered. I would expect tucking the tail ends into the wirerope would change the expected point of failure to the area where the tucks begin.
What industry? The point of failure moves to the last tuck. Which in our experience pull testing eyes, is where they all fail. Your point of failure on your farmers eye is the same as ours. Thank you for your comments, helps us all to learn.
hmm... I've been doing that wrong... they've all held but looked sloppy as frig, I guess I missed the bit about skip 2 back door skip one front door... and I always tuck the core twice which just causes problems
From this day forward, I will never just cut the core off without a tuck! BTW: (Technical nomenclature) Front Door: With the Lay, like a Liverpool or Sailmaker's Splice Back Door: Against the Lay, like a regular rope splice. We call the entry location the "cut".
@@bansheefreestyler if you subscribe to the channel, you’ll see every video I post. I don’t post that many, so I won’t be all over your phone. I’ll tag you if I remember though bud.
Yeah, I was following along and for the first half it was working for me, then I got confused and stabbed my hand with the spike. Try again later I suppose
@@dennyofthepines1457 Sorry about your hand. Some claim that this is a blood sport, or to put it another way, "If you're not bleeding , you're not splicing" however, I disagree. If you are doing it correctly, you should not be bleeding. Keep trying and it will get easier.
@@dennyofthepines1457 Agree, proper marlin spikes work good. Did one in a 1-1/8 inch drumline for a dozer once with a pair of screwdrivers. Hard work but I got it.
@@briantuor1231 when out in the sticks you make do with what you have! Us guys working in our wire store would probably come out in hives if we were asked to do what you do, good work sir!
Maybe, This would normally test out at between 80 and 90+% of the strength of the wire that it is made from. A Flemish eye will test out between 80 and 100%, depending on how it is finished.
"Now you try" Challenge accepted! th-cam.com/users/shortsefBy06Vz4jI?si=1O_9UTteiJST33-H This is some 3/8 stainless I found in the scrap bin at work. Some of this wasn't easy to follow, but I believe I have done it correctly, although it isn't as tight as I'd like it.
Well, historically with sailing a rope was a rope until it was used, which is when it becomes a line. So it could be that it is a cable until it is spooled on a drum. But it is “cable logging.” Last I checked.
I would watch our rigors at Napa Kaiser Steel build our lifting cables as a journeyman fabricator and it was impressive but it’s been so long ago that I forgotten how labor-intensive it was and this is a prime example of how men in America built this country and no one can ever take that away from those of us who built it but don’t be fooled there are monsters on the horizon just take a look at how they’re demolishing Palestine in that same destructive force can happen in the United States and knowing this skill is useful no matter what generation you are!
Who would have thought that over 200,000 would view this. Glad it has helped some and entertained others.
Beautimous, Brian. Best description and version of a westcoast I've ever seen.
Being a wimp I would have been adding another rotation of the standing part after 4-1.
This man spent a day or two in the woods, thankyou for the video sir.
Watching the video again I couldn't help noticing my catahoula pointer beagle dalmation terrier's twin brother, who recently, at 17, moved on to a better place.
Thanks!
hats off sir nice job i really admire your work here i never comment on any video but after seeing the hard work of doing this job i could not stop myself from appraising your job thank you very much.
Note: the one way this splice varies from the BC splicing manual is that the core is tucked with strand 4, not as the seventh strand. Our testing showed that when tucked as the seventh strand, the splice is approximately 7% weaker.
YOU WORE ME OUT! Great description.
It gets easier as you do more of them.
I've done thousands of these at our familys sling company as a kid. We used a splicing vice and had a second vice holding the other end which spun around to take the tension out of the rope. Also stood on this side - maybe he's over there for the camera. Also, we just unwound the whole tail to start with rather than the way he's unwinding one at a time.
I saw someone mention racing against others. Me and my brother would race, and I can't imagine anyone doing them much faster that we could. Mostly, we were doing 1/2" x 8' slings, but I've done up to 7/8" - that's a beast.
Thank you for the comment Hulio, Where are you located. Competition times are around 2 minutes for 7/8" line. I never really competed although I have done up to 1-1/2" line. Never had the opportunity to splice in a vertical vice either. Would be interesting.
@@briantuor1231 I'm in Houston. Dad had a sling company here for about 25 years. We had the right equipment though - a rigger's vise with the back attachment, whatever it's called, that spins to take tension off. Lot easier to slide the spike in. We only did Flemish eyes in a vertical vise. Nothing unique about that vise, just mounted waist high. I started out making garage door cables at home in our garage - my dad set me up with a hand press. Paid me real well, 10c each IIRC, and I could make 100 in an hour. Which was all the money I needed in the 8th grade, but the customer wanted more; so, I paid my buddies 3c each and watched them work, lol.
After college, I became the company sales guy and did safety inspections for our customers. Got to see a lot of manufacturing facilities up close, oil field/offshore. My granddad sold to the E. Tx loggers. He was retired and it gave him something to do. He drove around with a truck full and sold them on the spot to loggers.
as a time reference, this was the early 1970s. $10/hr was crazy money for a kid.
@@huliodrives8852 Thanks for replying ,sounds like a good deal to me. A bit of Tom Sawyer in your blood. Lots of good experiences. A Link on wire rope in case you are interested. th-cam.com/video/BX2Iv3CmNJk/w-d-xo.html
Don’t know how I ended up here but this is pretty damn awsome
It’s really a phenomenal process.
Nice job, Brian. What size line is that? It looks like 7/8" or 1". I taught high school forestry at Sweet home High School years ago and this was one of our skills contest events where we used 5/8" line. We had a couple teams that were very good. The best I ever saw though was a team out of Eagle Point, Oregon who did a perfect three tuck eye in 2:30. It was really something to see. The best our teams ever did was a 2:50. There is a good reason we had them wearing safety glasses and bucking chaps. Moving that fast can get dangerous. Again, nice work.
3/4 EIPS. Good to see that it is still being taught in a few places in Oregon. I never competed for time although a friend of mine and I did a 1-1/8" drum line for a cat once in the back of the rigging shop in about 3 minutes or less. We each got new rigging pants and a pair of white ox gloves out of it. A $18 value at the time. so 20x18$ is about $160 per hour each. Not bad for the day.
Before the "Gold Rush" to be a rigger starts, that's $160.00/hr in the shop. Those of us that splice in the field first have to get all our crap to the site. In our case that means whatever barge or fishing boat we're working on.
Don't get me wrong, we still clear a good 5, sometimes 6 dollars an hour.
Tip: Working on site, your best friend is going to be a mess of 10" (traditional) woodworker's hand screw clamps!
Thank You@@briantuor1231
Cheers man. I forgot about this splice. Great lesson!
Those were the days. Never wore gloves though because if a wire strand does go in your hand with gloves on you can’t see which way to go to pull it out. It happened a few times.
Hell yeah!! Thank you much. I've always had a difficult time with backdooring but with this video I'll 100% be able to on my own 😂
Excellent video! We'll use this in our yarding training, thanks for posting it.
Note: the one way this varies from the BC splicing manual is that the core is tucked with strand 4, not as the seventh strand. Our testing showed that when tucked as the seventh strand, the splice is approximately 7% weaker.
There are a number of variations on the technique to create this splice. Where I am dropping down two strands and picking up two, you can go in the same hole that the spike is in and go the other way around the core and pick up the same two strands. If you leave the spike in the hole after the second tuck and pull back on it, sometimes it will open up the hole a bit and makes getting a second spike in the back door a bit easier. The tucks are the same just how you pick up the two strands for the second tuck is slightly different. Both ways work. Hope this helps.
Best splicing video and yes very easy to follow.
Thank you.
Please comment , if this is useful or interesting for you. Good to see who is watching and learning from this. Let us know where you are from, as well.
Nice work! Haven't had to do any splicing for a few years now and I still use railroad spikes lol Haven't seen my "knitting needles" in a while. I learnt to tuck the core on 4... easy to remember. I helped do a skyline spice once.... that was fun, we just did a short long, we were almost done and the line was burnt. With all the mechanical harvesting this is getting to be a lost art.
Thanks for posting.
Please do a video on the long splice! Very instructional video!
I would love to see some pictures of your vise; looks like an efficient device. Very neat looking finish to your splice as well. Thank you.
It’s slick, I have a pipe Vice, Brian’s Vice is way better.
Beautiful! This is the first wire splice I learned, and still one of my favorites.
He’s a talented splicer. Well practiced. It was a pleasure to learn from him.
@@jrmehaffey2484 and unlike so many videos, the audio is very clear.
Great that you’re sharing some real skills here. Is there anything done with the jagged ends of the cut wire after the grinder work in your industry? I’m in mining now and have seen them tucked back in to the cable body, or peened down with a hammer when rigging slusher cables.
No, I just leave the ends. The frayed ends are just part of the gig. Thanks for the support bro.
The jagged ends will eventually break off and lay down along the cable
Yuh rekon yall could demonstrate a short long splice ... Cheers
I work on a shrimp boat I need this for the cables thanks for the video brother Definitely helps!!!
My pleasure, have you used this on the boat?
Most draggers (used to) use 6x7, instead of the 6x19 shown here. Some of it is Tightly laid, some of it is easy to poke. My favorite was always Rochester, which laid on the reel quietly and didn't really rotate much. It had a thick plastic sheath, and it's downfall was it's (made in USA) price, not cheap. 6x7 seems to stay protected by its galvanizing longer than 19 wire strand, naturally. I especially liked the way the Rochester really did not need to be coated with tar.
Of course these days many boats are going to dyneema or spectra. In the case of Dux, which (being heat-set or whatever they do to it), is not all that repairable, we have used (tin plated copper! not aluminum) Nicopress sleeves to repair it instead of trying to splice. This has worked out A Lot better than we ever thought it would, in diameters up to 5/8 anyway.
The ! is there because on the surface it sounds like the stupidest thing ever, but works like you won't believe. We use a portable NTSC 930 hydraulic press.
2 next1 and 2 next strand wow easy very nice presentation
I think the most crazy is lines for ski lifts
Gondola lines. What’s more crazy there’s only a hand full of people in the world that do it.
Technique with the spike is very helpful. I've been using it wrong. I gather that when you drop down 2 and pick up 2 strands then you say drop down one, you are stepping back one strand and grabbing 2? Or are you progressing down the rope the whole way?
yes sir
Nice! I hadn’t seen the cable splice since I was a young man. I never accomplished the feat with any degree of mastery. Too bad TH-cam wasn’t available 50 years ago!
I used to be able to get logger pants similar to those? But then I couldn't find them anymore. What brand are yours? Thanks.
Key Brand. Get my last ones from BiMart
@@briantuor1231 Thanks.
We would spike and twist the wires together at the end, burn/weld them together and then tuck them and hammer. At Wire Rope Corp we called it T&C
Excellent tutorial!
Where can I purchase several of the used Marlin spikes? Thanks.
Don't know about used but can buy good new ones from "Cleveland Machine" I think they have a website. Woods logging supply, in either Sedro Woolley, or Longview, Washington. Roberts Supply in Springfield, Oregon. Rigging shop in St. Maries , Idaho. Many more.
Thanks Brian! Wonder what the heck ind of of redneck manufactured that spike?? lol@@briantuor1231
Great video!
Awesome video Brian 👍🏻
Thank you, Bradd.
Why use this type of eye? I know that there is no ferrule and a hundreds of tons press involved with a typical flemish eye but is there a functional reason that a logger's eye is a choice over another type?
Probably because you can do it in the woods, and it is flexible and will go thru a block/pulley and its cheaper if you can do it yourself. It is stronger than most other hand spliced eyes. Doesn't fatigue at the base of the crimped eye.
OUTSTANDING !
THANK YOU VERY MUCH !
Thank you.
i like this splice on the strawline
Legally you can two tuck haywire, but it makes more sense to me to just 3 tuck it to have a more durable eye.
When I was learning, I did a lot of logger eyes in the straw line for practice.
In my day, I could slice an eye in the haulback (7/8)in less than 10 minutes. No hammering the marlin spike. I still remember the first time I spliced the mainline (1 1/4"). Took forever. Biggest line I ever put an eye in was 1 3/8".
I never did a true long splice, but did quite a few short longs and short splices. Also the "c" or passing splice.
To me, splicing was a specialty, and I took it on.
Good job, but think I’ll stick with the Flemish Eye.
Do you tuck the strands after making the flemish eye.
Quick answer is No. 99% of the time I’ve made a Flemish Eye I was pushed for time and without the tools to tuck the tail. The practice in my industry is to lay the tail strand back into their original position in the wire. Some companies require a wire clamp, clamping the tail to the wirerope. I can say from personal experience making and using 1000s of Flemish Eyes, I have never seen one fail by pulling the eye apart. When they have failed it’s almost always right at the point the strands are separated to form each side of the eye. Which coincides where the natural lay is altered. I would expect tucking the tail ends into the wirerope would change the expected point of failure to the area where the tucks begin.
What industry? The point of failure moves to the last tuck. Which in our experience pull testing eyes, is where they all fail. Your point of failure on your farmers eye is the same as ours. Thank you for your comments, helps us all to learn.
Eastern Oregon?
No,eastern Washington. Bickleton, Washington.
hmm... I've been doing that wrong... they've all held but looked sloppy as frig, I guess I missed the bit about skip 2 back door skip one front door... and I always tuck the core twice which just causes problems
Thats the beauty of these splices, they can look really bad and they still hold. Hope this helps.
Nice work. Thank you.
Where can you get a splice g block like that?
Shop made.
From this day forward, I will never just cut the core off without a tuck!
BTW:
(Technical nomenclature)
Front Door: With the Lay, like a Liverpool or Sailmaker's Splice
Back Door: Against the Lay, like a regular rope splice.
We call the entry location the "cut".
Good morning
Could you do a video on a long splice ? Joining a severed cable back together ? I have had to do it a couple times but I know I’m doing it wrong
That is in the works. Splicing series Brian, Joe Bryant and I are working on.
@@jrmehaffey2484 that would be awesome. When you put it up tag me in it if you don’t mind
@@bansheefreestyler if you subscribe to the channel, you’ll see every video I post. I don’t post that many, so I won’t be all over your phone. I’ll tag you if I remember though bud.
Is this a back to front farmer eye?
No, it’s a west coast three truck
His strength test videos were sweet
The man is a rigging wizard and I am proud to call him my friend and mentor.
Thanks
He makes that look so easy.
Yeah, I was following along and for the first half it was working for me, then I got confused and stabbed my hand with the spike. Try again later I suppose
@@dennyofthepines1457 Sorry about your hand. Some claim that this is a blood sport, or to put it another way, "If you're not bleeding , you're not splicing" however, I disagree. If you are doing it correctly, you should not be bleeding. Keep trying and it will get easier.
@@briantuor1231 I think the key is to use the proper tool, a simple scratch awl is not the right thing
@@dennyofthepines1457 Agree, proper marlin spikes work good. Did one in a 1-1/8 inch drumline for a dozer once with a pair of screwdrivers. Hard work but I got it.
@@dennyofthepines1457 Are you saying that what i am using is a scratch awl?? Not sure what you are saying.
Haven't seen a splice done that way before, can someone get him a splicing vice though!
@Zayden Jose I can confirm that no one does care.
If you wish to send me one I can supply my address. Normally we just use railroad spikes and spike the line/cable/wirerope to a stump or a log.
@@briantuor1231 when out in the sticks you make do with what you have! Us guys working in our wire store would probably come out in hives if we were asked to do what you do, good work sir!
Is that stronger than a Flemish eye?
Maybe, This would normally test out at between 80 and 90+% of the strength of the wire that it is made from. A Flemish eye will test out between 80 and 100%, depending on how it is finished.
林業のワイヤー編み方ですか？
Thank you.
Yes.
big demand for these guys big money
If you hear of any big money splicing jobs, let me know.
"Now you try"
Challenge accepted!
th-cam.com/users/shortsefBy06Vz4jI?si=1O_9UTteiJST33-H
This is some 3/8 stainless I found in the scrap bin at work. Some of this wasn't easy to follow, but I believe I have done it correctly, although it isn't as tight as I'd like it.
Nice job Man 😎
Thank you.
This way seems ridiculously difficult
Just like anything else, if you’re unfamiliar with it, it is difficult
Please show us the easy way.
@@jrmehaffey2484 I got whacked in the shin working on a splice lol
@@69jairamize64 I’m sorry about your luck?
I bet half the veiwers here are Watching this On deck with an old flat head screwdriver and a pair of rubber gloves.
sir wire end weld cutting machine show in your chinal
Nice job Mr most men can't a good rigging man can
A link to a wire rope workshop if you are interested. th-cam.com/video/BX2Iv3CmNJk/w-d-xo.html
I spent 40 years in the woods and we always referred to wire rope as lines, not cables. I guess things are changing.
Well, historically with sailing a rope was a rope until it was used, which is when it becomes a line. So it could be that it is a cable until it is spooled on a drum. But it is “cable logging.” Last I checked.
Look good
Sir your first point is not ok,it's very loose ropping wire point
сool!
Good
Unreal. I got lost at "put it close to the vice". That is on "manly" job.
Mahirap na trabaho yan pero sa katulad muh sisiw lng yan idol
Thank you, I think. Not sure what you said, but hope you enjoyed the video.
art form
T&C
h.d comlicated
Пайду пакакаю.
Страмота, но швейки норм)
Làm vậy chưa chuẩn
Yes it is, but would be interested in how you do it.
🤣👎
👎👎👎👎👎
what industry are you in. Would be interesting to hear what you didn't like about this video.
Полная хрень!
You need to show us the better way.
I would watch our rigors at Napa Kaiser Steel build our lifting cables as a journeyman fabricator and it was impressive but it’s been so long ago that I forgotten how labor-intensive it was and this is a prime example of how men in America built this country and no one can ever take that away from those of us who built it but don’t be fooled there are monsters on the horizon just take a look at how they’re demolishing Palestine in that same destructive force can happen in the United States and knowing this skill is useful no matter what generation you are!