I'm a licensed master plumber. I have to say I am impressed with your work as someone who stated in part 1 that you are not a plumber. Good explanations and a thorough job sir. I do things pretty much the same as you do but not exactly. First, the crimp rings on your pex tubing should not be too far away from the fitting. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations when crimping the ring onto the tubing. Second, I would have installed no fittings up in the attic if at all possible. Just one solid continuous pipe from the laundry up into the attic and back down into the bathroom. I prefer as few fittings in the attic as possible. Third, the method of using the laser heat gun to determine which is the copper pipe that is leaking is not the best way to go. For starters, if the leak were on a cold pipe, that method is useless. One method is to heat the solder joints on the suspected pipes to see which one's solder joint starts to melt. The pipe without water will melt, the others that are holding water will not. Or, cut them both, then blow compressed air into the lines and have a helper hold his hand on the pipes in the other room. When he feels air blowing up out of the copper pipe, he shouts and then you mark which pipe goes where.All in all a decent job by a very handy man indeed. Thank you for taking time to post.
Sir, thank you very much for the film. I can't understand, where to connect the second part of that red pipe, how do you know, should you connect it to the kitchen sink or where the washer is, where? I watched this second part of your film, and see that the red pipe comes to the attic, then it continues, though it is blue already, where does it go? We have a slab leak (cold!) in the bathroom, we removed a bathtub, and in the hole under the sink of the bathtub a water comes slowly on the bottom, like after one hour of opened water (we keep it closed all the time, but ~1 hour in the morning, we have bad leak, 6 gallons/min). I did a lot of plumbing in the house (I changed all the compression valves, all faucets, changed garbage disposal and kitchen sink, changed hose under the dishwasher, changed toilet, trying to eliminate all possible small leaks and update everything for more fancy staff at the same time). I didn't want to do that rerouting, because I think under the slab repair is better and no water is above your head, though we live in Dallas, and many companies recommended this variant (they charge here 2.5 thousands). I didn't want to spend 2.5 thousands for something I don't like and was looking for the ways to repair under the slab (they come with charges ~4-5 thousands (we are on the budget), and they don't know exactly where it is (with hydrostatic equipment and electronic as well, 2 very reputable companies), so it might be multiple holes, before they find the location of the leak exactly). But here I saw your film, and you said that anyone who can do faucets can do this job, so I want to try to do it myself. Please can you explain where do you end up with that blue pipe exactly, you start from the pipe in the bathroom, I saw those pipes in our bathroom as well, but where to end up finally? And would it be much different if it is a cold water leak? Yes, and I worked in the attic as well, since there was a need to change the busted electric box for one fan. I think I can do it if have more information. Sorry for posting my letter on this second film as well. I would appreciate any ideas about it.
I'm a licensed master plumber. I have to say I am impressed with your work as someone who stated in part 1 that you are not a plumber. Good explanations and a thorough job sir. I do things pretty much the same as you do but not exactly. First, the crimp rings on your pex tubing should not be too far away from the fitting. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations when crimping the ring onto the tubing. Second, I would have installed no fittings up in the attic if at all possible. Just one solid continuous pipe from the laundry up into the attic and back down into the bathroom. I prefer as few fittings in the attic as possible. Third, the method of using the laser heat gun to determine which is the copper pipe that is leaking is not the best way to go. For starters, if the leak were on a cold pipe, that method is useless. One method is to heat the solder joints on the suspected pipes to see which one's solder joint starts to melt. The pipe without water will melt, the others that are holding water will not. Or, cut them both, then blow compressed air into the lines and have a helper hold his hand on the pipes in the other room. When he feels air blowing up out of the copper pipe, he shouts and then you mark which pipe goes where.All in all a decent job by a very handy man indeed. Thank you for taking time to post.
tank you
you help a lot too
Sir, thank you very much for the film. I can't understand, where to connect the second part of that red pipe, how do you know, should you connect it to the kitchen sink or where the washer is, where? I watched this second part of your film, and see that the red pipe comes to the attic, then it continues, though it is blue already, where does it go? We have a slab leak (cold!) in the bathroom, we removed a bathtub, and in the hole under the sink of the bathtub a water comes slowly on the bottom, like after one hour of opened water (we keep it closed all the time, but ~1 hour in the morning, we have bad leak, 6 gallons/min). I did a lot of plumbing in the house (I changed all the compression valves, all faucets, changed garbage disposal and kitchen sink, changed hose under the dishwasher, changed toilet, trying to eliminate all possible small leaks and update everything for more fancy staff at the same time). I didn't want to do that rerouting, because I think under the slab repair is better and no water is above your head, though we live in Dallas, and many companies recommended this variant (they charge here 2.5 thousands). I didn't want to spend 2.5 thousands for something I don't like and was looking for the ways to repair under the slab (they come with charges ~4-5 thousands (we are on the budget), and they don't know exactly where it is (with hydrostatic equipment and electronic as well, 2 very reputable companies), so it might be multiple holes, before they find the location of the leak exactly). But here I saw your film, and you said that anyone who can do faucets can do this job, so I want to try to do it myself. Please can you explain where do you end up with that blue pipe exactly, you start from the pipe in the bathroom, I saw those pipes in our bathroom as well, but where to end up finally? And would it be much different if it is a cold water leak? Yes, and I worked in the attic as well, since there was a need to change the busted electric box for one fan. I think I can do it if have more information. Sorry for posting my letter on this second film as well. I would appreciate any ideas about it.
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