Great video. I actually watched your whole installation sitting in bed at 7am on New year's morning. I just bought my inverter to fit in my MH yesterday. And like yourself l chose the Edecoa brand. Although like yourself l only bought it to run a microwave, l bought the 3500w model. Simply because if l plan on using higher rated appliencies at a later date l don't need to worry about the inverter getting too hot. My battery bank consists of 4 X 120ah AGM batteries (480ah). To feed them l bought a Victron smartsolar 100/50 console + 3 150w panels (all of which l have yet to instal). I am qualified in electronics so l frowned when you intended to link that earth to your van. Then was relieved when you thought to seek advice from a guy who knows better. You are a smart guy. Safety matters. Even for me. I am retired but l promised my 6yr old grandson a camping trip, so l will also take measures to ensure little fingers can't access 240v.
Very nice job. Just want to point out that a 600 watt output power (cooking power) microwave typically requires 900 - 975 watts input power. So perhaps more like around 45 to 50 min of run time. Also most vehicles have an accessory position on the key which doesn't operate fans, etc. But a separate auxiliary radio on/off switch would be a nice conveyance.
I have an off grid caravan I use throughout the year. I have a leisure battery and solar panel, but no mains hookup. I'm looking at run microwave, phone charger, electric blanket. I've should I invest in an inverter or portable power pack? Thanks for the great work.
Hi there, I’m curious how you avoided voltage drop below the normal 11.8v which resets the inverter? I have a 1500 watt inverter with two 12 volt lead acid battery’s connected in parallel and every time I start my microwave it trips out.
I’ve been watching many videos for a few months now, trying my best to understand how to do this as safe and as simply as possible. I’m trying to divert my caravan’s shore power to my inverter, isolation switch and solar equipment so I can use my fridge and sockets off-grid. One of the first videos I ever watched was this one but at the time, I found it a bit overwhelming. Coming full-circle after lots of research, many hours just sat eating breakfast trying to understand the wiring (2002 model Bailey caravan). I’m at a point now where I think I understand fully. I have been advised to something similar to your approach, but to isolate the DC from the AC by connecting the original caravan charger and fuse box positives to the switch, and the negatives to my Victron smart BMV. Does that make sense to you? Thanks for such an in-depth video explaining this. There is hardly any content on TH-cam that fits a caravan. Perhaps I should film my own. :)
Hi there. i know this is an old video but hopefully you remember. At 28.05 ish you connect your permanent live (black wire) direct to the terminal block. Does this not mean that your permanent live from hook up to the changeover switch is not now protected by the RCD? or is the black wire being fed by the RCD? Many thanks.
Cottoned on to your earlier videos Nick coz I’m a Volvo enthusiast. Im not a camper van owner but really enjoyed this video and look forward to seeing your future projects. As an eagle-eyed ice hockey fan i couldnt help but notice your NYR cap, whats your connection? Ice hockey? New York? Both or neither?! 😀
Hi again David, It was the cameraman's. Yes, he's a Rangers fan! Glad you cot something out of the vid. In theory you could fit a microwave in the volvo using this method. :o)
It’s honestly not missed a beat. A massive upgrade and I particularly like the little remote with this inverter. If we’re popping out for day trips now, I don’t bother getting the gas kettle out. The electric kettle is quicker and cheaper! I will be off-grid for three days of camping with the family in early August…. I’ve just upgraded to 160Ah AGM leisure battery, so we’ll have all the power we need. Best of all with the system, if you run the engine, you can run power as long as you like pff the alternator. It works a treat.
@@NicksProjectsUK not sure you'll read this, but I'm surprised a 160Ah battery fits. I have the same setup under the rear seat (battery+truma combi) and there's barely space for the 100Ah battery installed by the dealer.
@@NicksProjectsUK You would be suprised Nick - the narrower gap add to the chimney convection effect - I do the same with my EpEver solar controller and workshop grid tie inverter - I run 25mm + 25% cables from my Lithium battery via a 120 amp relay and 200a fuse - it draws 80a powering the microwave with very little sag.
well done project very tidy job, only thing , your microwave is 600w output it draws about 1250w ac, so your calculation is based on that, great safe tidy job thou
It very safe as long as you use the right type of battery. When I filmed this, it was with a sealed, maintenance free leisure battery. This was fitted in the cabinet in the factory and conforms to necessary safety standards. I have just upgraded to a 160Ah AGM battery, so even safer now. 👍
I do have a wattmeter somewhere that should be able to answer this question, but I’m not sure I need to know... For what it’s worth, my little 75 amp hour battery, can run the microwave for about ten minutes on full power, and still have enough voltage left for a couple of slices of toast from an electric toaster and a single boil from my travel kettle. All appliances run in succession, rather than at once! Perfect for beans on toast and a cuppa when doing chilly day trips. I’ve also discovered, that when the battery does run flat, I simply need to run the engine and then everything runs indefinitely from the alternator. Not an ideal solution, but when camping off-grid it’s been a great back up. As always, I’m careful to limit the strain on the system by running appliances individually.
connect an alkaline battery between earth and line on the 13a mains plug tall, then search at the junction -box for the presence of the 1.5v, to discover that sockets source wire. DEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEER ?
Quality components but a theme mistake. This is the electronics olympics. I have a pure sine wave inverter ( best choice ), but i never use it for more than 1/3 it's continuous power. Dumping this juice draw on anything less than submarine batteries is scatterbrain. Putting this science experiment into a sleep - in tiny enclosure is a barbecue waiting to happen. If every house was wired like this, there would be a fire department on every block.
![[Part 1] ทารกน้อยถูกทิ้ง👶 หญิงชราเก็บขวดขายเลี้ยงดูเขาจนโต #โลกการละคร](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nPTDvFCExks/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video. I actually watched your whole installation sitting in bed at 7am on New year's morning.
I just bought my inverter to fit in my MH yesterday. And like yourself l chose the Edecoa brand. Although like yourself l only bought it to run a microwave, l bought the 3500w model. Simply because if l plan on using higher rated appliencies at a later date l don't need to worry about the inverter getting too hot.
My battery bank consists of 4 X 120ah AGM batteries (480ah).
To feed them l bought a Victron smartsolar 100/50 console + 3 150w panels (all of which l have yet to instal).
I am qualified in electronics so l frowned when you intended to link that earth to your van. Then was relieved when you thought to seek advice from a guy who knows better. You are a smart guy. Safety matters. Even for me. I am retired but l promised my 6yr old grandson a camping trip, so l will also take measures to ensure little fingers can't access 240v.
Brilliantly crafted and clearly explained… Top Job👍🏼
Where to start In praising you? What a natural you are at explain ing the project!! Easy style, informative and helpful! ! One to watch!!
Very nice job. Just want to point out that a 600 watt output power (cooking power) microwave typically requires 900 - 975 watts input power. So perhaps more like around 45 to 50 min of run time. Also most vehicles have an accessory position on the key which doesn't operate fans, etc. But a separate auxiliary radio on/off switch would be a nice conveyance.
I have an off grid caravan I use throughout the year. I have a leisure battery and solar panel, but no mains hookup. I'm looking at run microwave, phone charger, electric blanket.
I've should I invest in an inverter or portable power pack? Thanks for the great work.
Hi there, I’m curious how you avoided voltage drop below the normal 11.8v which resets the inverter? I have a 1500 watt inverter with two 12 volt lead acid battery’s connected in parallel and every time I start my microwave it trips out.
I’ve been watching many videos for a few months now, trying my best to understand how to do this as safe and as simply as possible. I’m trying to divert my caravan’s shore power to my inverter, isolation switch and solar equipment so I can use my fridge and sockets off-grid. One of the first videos I ever watched was this one but at the time, I found it a bit overwhelming. Coming full-circle after lots of research, many hours just sat eating breakfast trying to understand the wiring (2002 model Bailey caravan). I’m at a point now where I think I understand fully. I have been advised to something similar to your approach, but to isolate the DC from the AC by connecting the original caravan charger and fuse box positives to the switch, and the negatives to my Victron smart BMV. Does that make sense to you? Thanks for such an in-depth video explaining this. There is hardly any content on TH-cam that fits a caravan. Perhaps I should film my own. :)
Thanks Nick, nice job ! All the best and a happy new year !
Perfect video, so much information! Thank you!
Hi there. i know this is an old video but hopefully you remember. At 28.05 ish you connect your permanent live (black wire) direct to the terminal block. Does this not mean that your permanent live from hook up to the changeover switch is not now protected by the RCD? or is the black wire being fed by the RCD? Many thanks.
Excellent video really helpfull to get an understanding of the electrics
Glad you liked it!
Cottoned on to your earlier videos Nick coz I’m a Volvo enthusiast. Im not a camper van owner but really enjoyed this video and look forward to seeing your future projects. As an eagle-eyed ice hockey fan i couldnt help but notice your NYR cap, whats your connection? Ice hockey? New York? Both or neither?! 😀
Hi again David, It was the cameraman's. Yes, he's a Rangers fan! Glad you cot something out of the vid. In theory you could fit a microwave in the volvo using this method. :o)
🤔😂🇸🇪👀
excellent video thank you for the time you taken to do this
Thanks. It’s well worth doing! 👍
Most Helpful... :)
Hi just wondering if you had any problems with the inverter since fitting ???
And thinking of fitting same inverter for the microwave on my boat
It’s honestly not missed a beat. A massive upgrade and I particularly like the little remote with this inverter. If we’re popping out for day trips now, I don’t bother getting the gas kettle out. The electric kettle is quicker and cheaper! I will be off-grid for three days of camping with the family in early August…. I’ve just upgraded to 160Ah AGM leisure battery, so we’ll have all the power we need. Best of all with the system, if you run the engine, you can run power as long as you like pff the alternator. It works a treat.
@@NicksProjectsUK not sure you'll read this, but I'm surprised a 160Ah battery fits. I have the same setup under the rear seat (battery+truma combi) and there's barely space for the 100Ah battery installed by the dealer.
I put a 6mm spacer to hold my inverter off the wall - it lets some air get in and has a chimney effect - so much so that the fan seldom goes on full
Great idea. I don't think you need a massive air gap, but it really helps. I've just enjoyed 4 days off-grid without any issues whatsoever. :o)
@@NicksProjectsUK You would be suprised Nick - the narrower gap add to the chimney convection effect - I do the same with my EpEver solar controller and workshop grid tie inverter - I run 25mm + 25% cables from my Lithium battery via a 120 amp relay and 200a fuse - it draws 80a powering the microwave with very little sag.
well done project very tidy job, only thing , your microwave is 600w output it draws about 1250w ac, so your calculation is based on that, great safe tidy job thou
You can programme the radio to power on 20 mins or never power off. it's in the settings google is your friend.
Gassing from a charging battery in a enclosed space could make it a bomb.
It very safe as long as you use the right type of battery. When I filmed this, it was with a sealed, maintenance free leisure battery. This was fitted in the cabinet in the factory and conforms to necessary safety standards. I have just upgraded to a 160Ah AGM battery, so even safer now. 👍
yogurt ? Plastic-bag with taped hole for the switch-shaft to pas through, then cable-tied around the connecting cable-loom would suffice.
Use chequer plate from Screwfix not tin foil?
Great idea. In reality, even with heavy use, the aluminium foil is barely warm to the touch. So it does the job.
hot glue a black screw-cap over the led-light , with perhaps a fine pin-hole in it.
If you want to cook with a microwave you are going to need at least a 1000 Watt(output)unit which means a 2500 W or more inverter.
600w output power but isn't the microwave drawing more power. It will tell you on the back of it
I do have a wattmeter somewhere that should be able to answer this question, but I’m not sure I need to know... For what it’s worth, my little 75 amp hour battery, can run the microwave for about ten minutes on full power, and still have enough voltage left for a couple of slices of toast from an electric toaster and a single boil from my travel kettle. All appliances run in succession, rather than at once! Perfect for beans on toast and a cuppa when doing chilly day trips.
I’ve also discovered, that when the battery does run flat, I simply need to run the engine and then everything runs indefinitely from the alternator. Not an ideal solution, but when camping off-grid it’s been a great back up. As always, I’m careful to limit the strain on the system by running appliances individually.
connect an alkaline battery between earth and line on the 13a mains plug tall, then search at the junction -box for the presence of the 1.5v, to discover that sockets source wire. DEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEER ?
Where’s the Volvo. 🤔
Don't worry. I still have it! Loving the CarPlay upgrade :o) There will be further volvo stuff to come of course....
A little close to that wall ain’t it ?
Quality components but a theme mistake. This is the electronics olympics. I have a pure sine wave inverter ( best choice ), but i never use it for more than 1/3 it's continuous power. Dumping this juice draw on anything less than submarine batteries is scatterbrain. Putting this science experiment into a sleep - in tiny enclosure is a barbecue waiting to happen. If every house was wired like this, there would be a fire department on every block.
tinfoil ? A baking-tray, self-tapped with nylon washer spacers at each corner, would do better maybe.
This is NOT the correct way !