para los que no hablan ingles les escribo en español, me sirvio mucho ver este video y el problema que tenia con este mismo equipo era que estaba todo bien, no tiraba error pero calentando saltaba la termica o el disyuntor y no sabiamos por que, miramos los cables por dentro, el consumo y esta todo ok, decidimos mirando este video desarmar el calentador y el problema estaba en el cable que le da corriente, energia al calentador que la ficha estaba totalmente quemada por la temperatura, tiene ese cable blanco que por dentro es un alambre, sacamos la ficha pusimos al tornido el alambre bien puesto y andan sin problema, consejo: no ajustar mucho el tornillo por que toca el tornillo sin fin que lleva la chispa al ventilador y queda trabado. // For those who do not speak English, I am writing to you in Spanish, it was very helpful for me to watch this video and the problem I had with this same equipment was that everything was fine, it did not throw an error but when heating up the thermal or circuit breaker tripped and we did not know why, we looked the cables inside, the consumption and everything is ok, we decided watching this video to disassemble the heater and the problem was in the cable that gives power, power to the heater that the plug was completely burned by the temperature, it has that white cable that Inside is a wire, we took out the tab, we put the wire in place and they work without problem, advice: do not tighten the screw too much because it touches the endless screw that carries the spark to the fan and gets stuck.
I have not worked on these but an obvious tactic to removing the feed funnel and reservoir is to set the machine carefully on it's side (being careful of the attached wires and panel). That way the outlet is facing sideways (less or no spillage), and also any powder spillage won't be dropping on the motors or the circuitry! My preference would be the 'left' side (as viewed @ 11:00), so any spillage is straight down; but personally I would do this with the circuit panel side attached to the base, so it is not pulling on the wires and flopping around [I think there should be plenty of room with it attached]. Alternatively, I would set it on 'chimney blower' side... This would be better if the circuit panel is detached, as it is shown here; so it doesn't stress the wires. I think the top cap on the feed funnel on most machines can unscrew for cleaning or manufacturing purposes. PS: I would be careful around the bearings if you used compressed air, as he suggested, those bearings likely are high-temp grease lubed: Be cautious not to blow directly on the face-shields on the of the bearings, which could blow some grease out, or blow abrasive powder into, the races... I have no problem with using air as long as you watch where you are aiming the downstream of the air blast. Be careful if you remove the heater shield, that refractory insulation is typically very fragile and crumbly! Likewise, the heater supply wire insulation is also often delicate, and can be easily penetrated by the shield and short circuit, if you pinch it during reassembly. [Depends on if it is Teflon or fiberglass (or asbestos) covering]. Mr K L
great vid! Just got my first 2 Blitzz FX and i've wondering about the maintenance for them. this vid thoroughly explains what i have to do. really quick though how often do you do this? since mine is brand new when should i start doing this type of deep cleaning?
I have 2 Jmaz Firestorm. If you remove the granules from the container and you empty those which stayed inside I don't think so you will need to do it frequently. I actually haven't done it in 2 years but it depends of the use as well.
Deep cleaning with complete removal/opening of the heating element we would recommend 1 time a year (if you clean out machines from sparks initially every time you use them - dumping out granules and activating machine to clear all chambers out) however should you not do this or machine starts clogging sooner, then sooner than 1 year. Unless your machine is faulty for some other reason which you would know since problem still exists after cleaning! Most importantly you don't want the heating element cooling off with granules inside it and reheating again, this continued action will build up particles on the element itself.
When i used 1 to 4 times highest height of spark is very good ... After then 4 to 5 events ,the highest hight is performing like low hight or medium hight. I means to say after the 4 event the hight of spark has been low compare to when i brought new machines ... this problem same in all 4 pcs machines. Is it Affected due to different type power or it can be other reason behind ?
I can’t get the corkscrew out of the heating element. I’m sure there is a ton of build up making it so difficult…any suggestions?? I have the ProX Blitzz.
everything is working as expected and it is heating up perfectly. I have a problem as the sparklers are not coming out even the fan is running.looks like the corckscrew and cylinder is blowing the granules and not burning them or sometimes blow a thin line
Sounds like a temp issue (IMO, just a guess); There is another YT about replacing the temp sensor on a certain model. Your temp sensor could be defective, so temp is not correct... DMMs have become very affordable and you can get one with a thermocouple, so you can check the actual temp (or borrow someones?). (you would have to get it inside the heater, nearby the machine sensor). Can the powder get 'old'?? -dunno, maybe research that. Mr K L
I don't know what your objections are to solvents, as long as they are evaporating kind, and the part is out of the assembly, and it is thoroughly dry before reassembly. (and NOT on the bearings). That said, I don't think they are needed for cleaning powder off in these machines...
Old post but here's my answer: I don't know the circuitry, but very likely it is powered with triac controlled 120VAC (or grid power of your country), The heater itself is most certainly resistive, and doesn't matter if it gets AC or DC.
Thanks for watching! Comment questions and we will be sure to answer them! More info available here: CryoFX.com
How repair E 6 fault error
para los que no hablan ingles les escribo en español, me sirvio mucho ver este video y el problema que tenia con este mismo equipo era que estaba todo bien, no tiraba error pero calentando saltaba la termica o el disyuntor y no sabiamos por que, miramos los cables por dentro, el consumo y esta todo ok, decidimos mirando este video desarmar el calentador y el problema estaba en el cable que le da corriente, energia al calentador que la ficha estaba totalmente quemada por la temperatura, tiene ese cable blanco que por dentro es un alambre, sacamos la ficha pusimos al tornido el alambre bien puesto y andan sin problema, consejo: no ajustar mucho el tornillo por que toca el tornillo sin fin que lleva la chispa al ventilador y queda trabado. // For those who do not speak English, I am writing to you in Spanish, it was very helpful for me to watch this video and the problem I had with this same equipment was that everything was fine, it did not throw an error but when heating up the thermal or circuit breaker tripped and we did not know why, we looked the cables inside, the consumption and everything is ok, we decided watching this video to disassemble the heater and the problem was in the cable that gives power, power to the heater that the plug was completely burned by the temperature, it has that white cable that Inside is a wire, we took out the tab, we put the wire in place and they work without problem, advice: do not tighten the screw too much because it touches the endless screw that carries the spark to the fan and gets stuck.
Muchas gracias por tu observacion dejame saber si tienes dudas
Hi, Can I do the general cleaning the day after the show or ir has to be the same nite? Some times I get out really exhausted from a gig.
Hello, I am writing to you since I need the resistance.
What do they use for the boiler of the BlitzzFX machine?
I have not worked on these but an obvious tactic to removing the feed funnel and reservoir is to set the machine carefully on it's side (being careful of the attached wires and panel).
That way the outlet is facing sideways (less or no spillage), and also any powder spillage won't be dropping on the motors or the circuitry!
My preference would be the 'left' side (as viewed @ 11:00), so any spillage is straight down; but personally I would do this with the circuit panel side attached to the base, so it is not pulling on the wires and flopping around [I think there should be plenty of room with it attached].
Alternatively, I would set it on 'chimney blower' side...
This would be better if the circuit panel is detached, as it is shown here; so it doesn't stress the wires.
I think the top cap on the feed funnel on most machines can unscrew for cleaning or manufacturing purposes.
PS: I would be careful around the bearings if you used compressed air, as he suggested,
those bearings likely are high-temp grease lubed:
Be cautious not to blow directly on the face-shields on the of the bearings, which could blow some grease out, or blow abrasive powder into, the races...
I have no problem with using air as long as you watch where you are aiming the downstream of the air blast.
Be careful if you remove the heater shield, that refractory insulation is typically very fragile and crumbly!
Likewise, the heater supply wire insulation is also often
delicate, and can be easily penetrated by the shield and short circuit, if you pinch it during reassembly.
[Depends on if it is Teflon or fiberglass (or asbestos) covering].
Mr K L
This video is awesome. Thanks so much
great vid! Just got my first 2 Blitzz FX and i've wondering about the maintenance for them. this vid thoroughly explains what i have to do.
really quick though how often do you do this?
since mine is brand new when should i start doing this type of deep cleaning?
I have 2 Jmaz Firestorm. If you remove the granules from the container and you empty those which stayed inside I don't think so you will need to do it frequently. I actually haven't done it in 2 years but it depends of the use as well.
Deep cleaning with complete removal/opening of the heating element we would recommend 1 time a year (if you clean out machines from sparks initially every time you use them - dumping out granules and activating machine to clear all chambers out) however should you not do this or machine starts clogging sooner, then sooner than 1 year. Unless your machine is faulty for some other reason which you would know since problem still exists after cleaning!
Most importantly you don't want the heating element cooling off with granules inside it and reheating again, this continued action will build up particles on the element itself.
Thank you !
Uber informative. Thanks
Great video. Super informative! Thanks!
What would be a good brand to buy?
When i used 1 to 4 times highest height of spark is very good ...
After then 4 to 5 events ,the highest hight is performing like low hight or medium hight.
I means to say after the 4 event the hight of spark has been low compare to when i brought new machines ... this problem same in all 4 pcs machines.
Is it Affected due to different type power or it can be other reason behind ?
I can’t get the corkscrew out of the heating element. I’m sure there is a ton of build up making it so difficult…any suggestions?? I have the ProX Blitzz.
Hi, Jeffrey. I am having the same issue with ProXBlitzz. Did you ever get it resolved and if so, how?
Thx, C.
Nice video :)
everything is working as expected and it is heating up perfectly. I have a problem as the sparklers are not coming out even the fan is running.looks like the corckscrew and cylinder is blowing the granules and not burning them or sometimes blow a thin line
The same thing happens to me with 3 of these machines. How can I get the spark out since it only throws away the gunpowder?

Sounds like a temp issue (IMO, just a guess);
There is another YT about replacing the temp sensor on a certain model.
Your temp sensor could be defective, so temp is not correct...
DMMs have become very affordable and you can get one with a thermocouple, so you can check the actual temp (or borrow someones?). (you would have to get it inside the heater, nearby the machine sensor).
Can the powder get 'old'?? -dunno, maybe research that.
Mr K L
Where can i buy a new heating element for my cold spark machine?
👍
Tengo problemas con 2 de estás no detonan porque
some questions how safe are close to smoke detectors and sensors???
One of my bearing is stuck, I can rotate it loose but as soon as I put it back together and turn it on it jams again
I don't know what your objections are to solvents, as long as they are evaporating kind, and the part is out of the assembly, and it is thoroughly dry before reassembly. (and NOT on the bearings). That said, I don't think they are needed for cleaning powder off in these machines...
hi it's knowledgeable but please let me know operating voltage of element and it's ac or dc
Old post but here's my answer:
I don't know the circuitry, but very likely it is powered with triac controlled 120VAC (or grid power of your country), The heater itself is most certainly resistive, and doesn't matter if it gets AC or DC.