This is a good Idea. Maybe even make it hollow so it feels like one of those RC Car tires and provides even more shock absorption when slamming against the other door.
I have some silk PLA+ rainbow filament and it's honestly the most amazing filament I've ever had, used it mostly for strong prints, if i had to guess it's closer to PETG as I can use it to bond PLA and PETG together. Unfortunately i can't find anyone that still sells it anymore but it has the beauty of silk PLA with none of the flaws.
Being someone who lives on the Eastern Shore of MD, right next to the water, my house sits between 65 and 70% humidity, I have to dry ALL my filaments, regardless of type. I did not know you could anneal the PLA by drying it at too high a temperature, however. I usually do 50C for 6-18 hours depending on the age of the filament. Probably too high a temp. I have noticed a spool I have been printing from for a while degrading in print quality and I thought it was my printer. Gonna have to do some testing now. Thanks for the info!
Two things I didn't know that were interesting to me. 1 don't dry PLA to hot and 2 additives can be used to create nucleating sites in the material. I imagine this could potentially benefit other materials as well in perhaps more ways than only resistance to deformation from ambient heat but also load induced elongation over time. Perhaps could be implemented as well for modifying ductility? Hardness? Toughness? You know... And in a wide range of plastic types. Yeah super interesting. Thanks for the great content Keep up the good work
I use a $50 pressure cooker with the pressure safety bits reversed to dry filament plus I also dry other stuff. An HVAC vacuum pump new or used is also needed. For the vacuum hose I used a natural gas SS flexible metal hose and 3D printed the transition diameter parts with O-ring seals. Basically, a vacuum is vastly better dehumidifier. Cheers-Peter
You need a very low vacuum for that to work and its still better to add some energy to the system. YouÄd also need to keep the vacuum pump running constantly, otherwise the out gassing equalizes the pressure and the drying stops. Just use some silica gel man.. so much cheaper and you need it anyways in your storage box
If you have access to an MMU, try alternating PLA and TPU in either order for inside/middle/outer, I've heard TPU bonds to PETG but not PLA very easily, so might act like peelable support material and be softer for impacts.
Hi, a few years ago I watched one of your videos, in the intro you showed a quote about creativity - it was about someone stealing an idea of a foldable 3d printer. I can't find this video. I'm looking for the quote...
7:04 pretty sure it supposed to be a degree sign, but what's with math??? "Anything to the Zero power is Zero, right?" NO! Anything to the 0 power is 1. Why did you have to make such obnoxious comment?
Well, fart biscuits, that is obnoxious. I should have checked myself when I was editing. It's been a WHILE since I was in a Math class. th-cam.com/video/PV3_UHG73oQ/w-d-xo.html
13:20 If you were to have a "food safe" path for the filament. Then use this PLA X filament to make a one time use cookie cutter would it then be safe to use?
Food safe would mean, new tube, new extruder-gears, new print bed, new extruder, new nozzle. And all of that including the filament of course cannot have materials which leak out onto your print. Chances are you cannot really get Filament which is labeled as food safe anyways or only at some high cost.
can test out the anti bacterial claim, agar isnt that hard to make. should be an interesting test to try with the anti bac filament, normal filament and other things
learning how to do the modeling is its own reward? sharing how to design something like this is useful to other people? to piss off random curmudgeons who make negative comments on free content? Probably all of the above tbh.
@@DesignPrototypeTest I'm not one of those prusa fanbois attacking you, just pointing out this video was wasted effort. Why didn't you make a better choice for content? I sub for your original content not to watch a rehashing of an old model. And don't be such a drama queen, no one said any such thing.
Anything to power 0 is 1 by definition not 0. So it does exist ;)
You tried putting a TPU sleeve with the new Cura multi material link setttings, to the outside of the gearbox diameter?
This is a good Idea. Maybe even make it hollow so it feels like one of those RC Car tires and provides even more shock absorption when slamming against the other door.
I have some silk PLA+ rainbow filament and it's honestly the most amazing filament I've ever had, used it mostly for strong prints, if i had to guess it's closer to PETG as I can use it to bond PLA and PETG together.
Unfortunately i can't find anyone that still sells it anymore but it has the beauty of silk PLA with none of the flaws.
Being someone who lives on the Eastern Shore of MD, right next to the water, my house sits between 65 and 70% humidity, I have to dry ALL my filaments, regardless of type. I did not know you could anneal the PLA by drying it at too high a temperature, however. I usually do 50C for 6-18 hours depending on the age of the filament. Probably too high a temp. I have noticed a spool I have been printing from for a while degrading in print quality and I thought it was my printer. Gonna have to do some testing now. Thanks for the info!
Didn't even weave a maark. Too cute. 👍
Great video 🙂
Great design, love the application.
Thanks for sharing your expirenceses with all of us 🙂
Two things I didn't know that were interesting to me. 1 don't dry PLA to hot and 2 additives can be used to create nucleating sites in the material. I imagine this could potentially benefit other materials as well in perhaps more ways than only resistance to deformation from ambient heat but also load induced elongation over time. Perhaps could be implemented as well for modifying ductility? Hardness? Toughness? You know... And in a wide range of plastic types. Yeah super interesting.
Thanks for the great content
Keep up the good work
I use a $50 pressure cooker with the pressure safety bits reversed to dry filament plus I also dry other stuff. An HVAC vacuum pump new or used is also needed. For the vacuum hose I used a natural gas SS flexible metal hose and 3D printed the transition diameter parts with O-ring seals. Basically, a vacuum is vastly better dehumidifier.
Cheers-Peter
yea i just use a modified food dehydrator
You need a very low vacuum for that to work and its still better to add some energy to the system.
YouÄd also need to keep the vacuum pump running constantly, otherwise the out gassing equalizes the pressure and the drying stops.
Just use some silica gel man.. so much cheaper and you need it anyways in your storage box
If you have access to an MMU, try alternating PLA and TPU in either order for inside/middle/outer, I've heard TPU bonds to PETG but not PLA very easily, so might act like peelable support material and be softer for impacts.
Hi, a few years ago I watched one of your videos, in the intro you showed a quote about creativity - it was about someone stealing an idea of a foldable 3d printer. I can't find this video. I'm looking for the quote...
The secret to creativity is knowing how to hide your sources
7:04 pretty sure it supposed to be a degree sign, but what's with math??? "Anything to the Zero power is Zero, right?" NO! Anything to the 0 power is 1.
Why did you have to make such obnoxious comment?
Well, fart biscuits, that is obnoxious. I should have checked myself when I was editing. It's been a WHILE since I was in a Math class. th-cam.com/video/PV3_UHG73oQ/w-d-xo.html
@@DesignPrototypeTest Aside from the math error, I thought it was playful not obnoxious. 🤷
@@DesignPrototypeTest it's also a degree symbol. hex° by theta°. poor marketing because its hard to search for. had to use your link to find it.
13:20 If you were to have a "food safe" path for the filament. Then use this PLA X filament to make a one time use cookie cutter would it then be safe to use?
Food safe would mean, new tube, new extruder-gears, new print bed, new extruder, new nozzle.
And all of that including the filament of course cannot have materials which leak out onto your print.
Chances are you cannot really get Filament which is labeled as food safe anyways or only at some high cost.
Ok. Thanks for the reply.
Hex degrees lol ... i just got one of those too...i am really not happy with it compared to other units i have owned.
👍 Can you share a 3d file of the knob?
thangs.com/mythangs/file/918121
Anything to the 0 is 1, not 0 (except 0^0).
can test out the anti bacterial claim, agar isnt that hard to make. should be an interesting test to try with the anti bac filament, normal filament and other things
So you designed a bearing gear that has been shared and redesigned on thingyverse for years, why?
You got me. I'm completely unoriginal. Everything has already been done. There is no point to anything. I should just unalive myself.
learning how to do the modeling is its own reward? sharing how to design something like this is useful to other people? to piss off random curmudgeons who make negative comments on free content? Probably all of the above tbh.
So you trolled a content creator for making an original design instead of just doing a copy/paste of work done by others, why?
@@DesignPrototypeTest Maybe if you came up with an original way to do it lol
@@DesignPrototypeTest I'm not one of those prusa fanbois attacking you, just pointing out this video was wasted effort.
Why didn't you make a better choice for content?
I sub for your original content not to watch a rehashing of an old model.
And don't be such a drama queen, no one said any such thing.