It looks like my issue, the entire plastic connector with the copper wires inside was deteriorating, i went to pull it out and half the plug stayed in the VVT. I'll buy a new one and replace it. My car runs and likely uses more gas until i fix it, it won't leave me dead on the side of the road.
Thank you for sharing this information, I have a BRZ and I use the OEM oil filter but want to use the same tall oil filter on that car. What filter was on that car?
Hey so I have an fb20 and I think these oil control valves are bad it’s the last thing I’ve narrowed it down to but wanted your opinion or advise on what type of noise it would make if they were bad. My car at idle doesn’t make the noise only around 2-4K rpm and only one side it sounds like I have no oil like valve slap but only one valve and if I run through a gear hard it won’t make it only used like light load it’ll make the sound which confuses me or if I rev it when it peaks and starts to drop when load leaves so I’m pretty stumped. Took off valve covers all the lash seems writhing spec for mileage so I’m either going to buy a new motor bc I don’t want to dump more money into it and not find the issue when I can get an engine for 600$ and swap myself then rebuild it... so maybe you can help??
Have an 86; have a spare engine; did an engine swap and got a P000c reading? Replaced the part using the original engine (I know it's not advised but the original didn't have any error codes; just a spun bearing) Still have the code. The problem is the car doesn't limp like it's advised to should have. Really don't want to crack open the timing chain cover to find the problem but if i have to that really sucks.
today I replace one this variable cam timing actuator for my Outback. This unit got oil leakage. the engine oil leaked and soak the cable plug and connector. Changed a new one to avoid cable soaked by oil and finally the ECU choked by oil.
Can the oil control valve be faulty without engine light? I have poor accereleration at low rpm's and this is my number one guess. Idle is good and no warning lights.
I really hope this fixes my problem. I have a P0018 Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 2 Sensor A). But now that he is mentioning it as I type this... I am running 05W-30 Synthetic Oil with a K&N Oil Filter... Haha I will revert back.
I got the P0018 code earlier this year. Replaced the part with a new one from Toyota and reset the ecu with OFT. Been running stage1 with the OFT and I've had no issues since.
I recently built a new engine for a 2013 that I got that had a spun rod bearing. When I started the car with the new engine I noticed after it warmed up it dropped to a low idle, the throttle became twitchy, wanted to stall and had the check engine light and slip light on. I put a scan tool on it and I have 4 codes p0102 - Mass or Volume air flow circuit low input, p0113 - Intake air temp circuit high input, p0017 - Crankshaft position camshaft position correlation bank 1 sensor b and P219a - Bank 1 Air-fuel imbalance. All four codes are marked permanent. When I delete them they are immediately there again once the scan tool rescans without ever starting the engine. So curious why I would get and p219a code without ever starting the engine? I tested the vvt solenoid and it checks out. It operates on 12 volts, ohms at 8.4, no continuity when grounded, I also checked the power to the plug and am getting 10v with the battery at 12v. Not sure if 10v is the correct voltage at the plug though? I also checked the ocv behind the solenoid and the button is sprung and seems to be working. Trying to avoid pulling the front cover to replace a ocv if possible.
if the solenoid is faulty, possibly. but you also need to check the cam sensor and their is a possible issue with the timing being off or the oil control system in the sprocket being defective.
@@subtledriver It can also be that they drove it awhile with the CEL and now the timing is off in the ECU, and have to replace that or possibly have is flashed after they have fixed the original timing issue.
Not sure if someones mentioned this but is it possible to throw P0011,P0021, P0244 code with OCV intake sensors out? I removed my valve covers and nothing looked bent or out of place. Now I'm assuming skipped a tooth or OCV out. Input appreciated. Great videos
I don't know if I had 3/4 of these go out or if 3/4 of my sprokets went out all at once but I just got a bunch of codes out of nowhere. Now I am running 5w30 as per the turbo kit recommendation. P0021 P0024 P0014 P0011 P0420 P0018 P0016 P000B P000D
I had P000A, got a new part from oreilley. Dorman. Oil change with 0w20 & an aftermarket filter. problem went away for about 3 days, then came back. I ignored it for a month. I then swapped the the solenoids, and the code followed; P000A --> P000C. Ok, so to me, this is confirmation it's the part at fault. So, My dumbass ordered another Dorman part from Oreilley. Changed out the part, and just kept it in the same spot of P000C vs swapping again. I did an Oil change with 0w-20, with a new a Subaru brand filter. This time I left the drain plug out and ran a quart of oil through in hopes it'd clear out any extra debris/gunk. After the reinstall, I reconnected my battery (which resets the codes/clears CEL), scanned and P000C was listed as "historic". After about 4 or 5 days, the code returned; P000C. Should I just bite the bullet, and redo this procedure with a Subaru brand VVT? Is there anything someone would recommend else I can do? Hitting my head against the wall.
IF you still get on youtube and see this, I talked with the directors of sales in North America and they are looking into the P0018 code being and issue and the fact that SOOOO many FR-S vehicles get these types of codes constantly and they "DONT KNOW" whats wrong. So, if you never got this fixed please call the number to report a complaint. It will help this all become a recall
Hello so what exactly was the issue? i get a strong ratteling noise from that part of the vvt. Only when the engine is warm. i dont get any errors when i run a diagnosis with the computer.
Hey man i need your help please 🙏 idk if u heard about the recall and having knocking sounds and all that and im actually having that same issue but im out of warranty what can it be the cause of the engine knocking sound? And got some codes about camshaft vvt timing slow response and all that. Code is p0024 , p0014 , p000b
I would simply look up the part on subaru parts website and compare them between intake and exhaust. Hopefully you just have a bad OCV and not require a new AVCS gear sprocket :(
its 99% of the time the sprocket, im about to replace mine right now. I have p0366 code that comes back instantly. Connector is getting power so im going straight to where the most common issue is. Sprocket.
@@RusstyCoDskills yep, any kind of issues after electrical that deal with either intake cams has always been the sprocket backplate stuck open. Sold my car last April. Haven't missed it since. Lol
Idk if you can help but: I have a P0020 check engine light on for the cam sensor for bank 2 sensor A. I’ve tried replacing the sensor and checked all others, Cleared the codes and so on. Check engine light goes away and comes back on. What else could it be? Possibly worth noting, the check engine light for this code did not come on until after we replaced the slave cylinder and clutch, is there anything we could have missed, unplugged, or etc that could be causing the issue?
Hey Subtledriver, I was researching for days trying to understand my code P000A (Camshaft position slow response bank 1) on December 2018 but after after one week the CEL disappeared. I decided not to address it. Perhaps a mistake. Now, March 2019, I’ve been on a mission researching code P000B which I understand to be the same problem just a different position (A & B) on the engine. I have very VERY little knowledge about cars and how they work but I’m trying my best to learn. Scion FRS is my first vehicle I work on. I’m trying to learn and do most of the work myself since I no longer trust Toyota to have knowledge to do the job correctly. Will the method you used in this video help me with my codes P000A (which no longer appears, but wouldn’t mind addressing) and my current P000B? Also, I took a look at my engine very carefully I noticed I have four of these, what I now I’ve learn to be Actuators. I’m assuming because the engine has four cylinders. Would it best to only change two of these but all four? Thanks in advance. And I apologizing for long message and my ignorance in the question and statements I made, again I’m trying to learn on how cars work. LOL! Thanks again.
Also, on the driver side, bottom actuator (Bank 2 Exhaust side) I see a lot, A LOT of greasy, oily dry grime. I don’t think it’s normal. All three of the other actuators seem to be in better shape, free from the grime. The only people that were allow to ever work on my car was Toyota so I know this isn’t something that I caused. Third question would be, is this normal on an engine and fourthly, if it’s not is it safe to clean it out with a tooth brush and warm water? Thanks again.
Sorry for the late reply. Yeah, I change the Engine Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoid for Bank 1-A but it’s was actually the camshaft itself that needed to be replace. I had to take it to Toyota because it was out of my car fixing experience. So they had to work on for a few days. It was a big job. Cost a lot to repair.
Hey mate,oiling at purchasing a turbo 86 but it has this code. Was Ur car acting up at all with this code because this car runs beautifully.. Can't imagine it being a camshaft? Owner says it's a dirty cam position sensor but don't trust it. When you replaced the ocv did you immediately realise it was not the issue or did it take some time for the code to reappear?
I got a 2015 sti. And my cel came on giving me the code for cam shaft slow response bank1 and subaru says its my oil control valve which they gonna fix on tuesday.. this is the second time i took it because of ocv. Im just making sure they know what they are doing im tired of taking it in
I believe this is the exact same sensor for p0018. I have the exact same issue. I just pulled the part of a spare motor and I will one day find the time to install it.
@@ardikasulistija6574 I swapped the solenoid and the issue remained. Oddly enough, I tried to clear the code and it doesn't come back until I shut the car off. Next time I start it again, the code is still gone for a random amount of time. Usually it will come back when I am either at a stop or going slowly and put a huge load on the engine like hard acceleration. But there is no mechanical issues when the code is cleared. The timing is where it should be, power delivery is as it should be. I will try to swap the sensors and maybe also the ecu if anyone has a spare one. Eventually I will probably go haltech or motec
@@joshuaszeto yeah everytime I clear the code, the car runs perfectly. I tried swapping the sensors but it remained on the same side (same code, P0018). My friend and I will next trouble shoot the OCV sensor. Did you ever happen to flash your ECU with Open flash tablet btw? I flashed it to e85 and the reflashed it back to the UEL 93 tune, so I'm curious if that may have caused the issue.
subtledriver All at once. I have changed the oil and the filter just yesterday and reset👌 But it's so hard to race up to 5k rpm. Maybe I'll.drive around for 2 weeks or so as per.your description. Less likely they fail all at once, the only common thing all four has is the engine oil and the filter
Will this going bad cause low power or hesitation in acceleration? Also do the left and the right cylinder head run the same timing advance and retard ... while engine is operating ?
this is the first step, I would also reflash the pcm with updated firmware and change the oil with fresh 0w20. If not, you will need to replace the cam sprocket (aka oil control valve) and/or pcm as well.
subtledriver My fully built motor has 500 miles on it. The p000a and p000c came on the first time at 100~ miles. Using 10w40 mineral. Switched to 5w30 synthetic and now all I'm getting is p000c. Entire motor is new except the timing cover and solenoids so my 2013 one could just be going out.
who built this motor (i would ask them if they used a brand new 2017 cam gear set and oil control valves)? is it a 2013-14? the 15 and up have been revised. if they used older parts, its probably just "expected" if your bearing clearances are close to stock, i would try resetting codes, and run 0w20 through it, or 0w30. and see if it comes back.
subtledriver definitely not running 0w20 unless if it gets really cold here in Tennessee this summer. I'll try 0w30 once I switch my solenoid if it still comes back. Emerld coast motorsports at built fa20 built my motor. The motor from my understanding is all brand new but not the 2017+ model. So I guess 2014-2016
there is a difference between first year 2012/13/14 vs 2015 and up the parts have been revised many times and old part numbers superseded. 0w20 is what we race on the track with in 100 degree weather, its also how the factory robot built motors are built for. the variable valve timing system doesnt like too thick of oil, or it wont flow properly in the small passages. too think of an oil will cause internal engine damage. I would not even switch the solenoid, i would try the factory oil first and see what happens. my customers get vvt codes if they run too thick of an oil. so keep that in mind. too thick will also cause overheating and drag/ loss of power. so unless the bearing clearance and vvt passages were set up for slow moving/oldschool engine oils, i would try factory fill (will not damage anything unless you abuse the hell out of it) and see what happens. if there is still a problem, you need to take it up with your builder. you need to ask if they used updated parts, or old problematic parts.
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Thanks for the video, very clear and concise!
only thing that bothered me was when you slowly watched the bolt drop LOL
One hand lol
I thought that too, then promptly did the same on mine! The bolts are shorter threads than you expect.
Finally I found the video that explain that parts name. Thanks a lot.👍
Just like me we on the same page
Looked easy enough thanks for the video
crazy thing is i noticed my first oil leak and its around that area.
Did you get a CEL which led you to replace this sensor?
Thank uuuuuuuuuu was looking for this part number for a while
great job on the video
It looks like my issue, the entire plastic connector with the copper wires inside was deteriorating, i went to pull it out and half the plug stayed in the VVT. I'll buy a new one and replace it. My car runs and likely uses more gas until i fix it, it won't leave me dead on the side of the road.
Thank you for sharing this information, I have a BRZ and I use the OEM oil filter but want to use the same tall oil filter on that car. What filter was on that car?
Hey so I have an fb20 and I think these oil control valves are bad it’s the last thing I’ve narrowed it down to but wanted your opinion or advise on what type of noise it would make if they were bad. My car at idle doesn’t make the noise only around 2-4K rpm and only one side it sounds like I have no oil like valve slap but only one valve and if I run through a gear hard it won’t make it only used like light load it’ll make the sound which confuses me or if I rev it when it peaks and starts to drop when load leaves so I’m pretty stumped. Took off valve covers all the lash seems writhing spec for mileage so I’m either going to buy a new motor bc I don’t want to dump more money into it and not find the issue when I can get an engine for 600$ and swap myself then rebuild it... so maybe you can help??
Can you provide the part numbers you used? This would be very helpful to me. Are all OCV parts the same in each location? Thanks!
0:52 for the p/n...surprised it wasn't seen....
I replaced this, but my BRZ is still slow.
you need a performance tune! haha
@@subtledriver I'll just get the STi vers...oh...
@@AD-iw4vy go stage 2, header, k/n or aem intake, exhaust and tune/flex fuel. And it will really wake up with additional 30 or more hp.
😂
Can I use the same part number for a 2013 Scion FR-S?
Robert Ordonez yes same engine. They might even have newer versions by now.
Have an 86; have a spare engine; did an engine swap and got a P000c reading?
Replaced the part using the original engine (I know it's not advised but the original didn't have any error codes; just a spun bearing)
Still have the code. The problem is the car doesn't limp like it's advised to should have.
Really don't want to crack open the timing chain cover to find the problem but if i have to that really sucks.
today I replace one this variable cam timing actuator for my Outback. This unit got oil leakage. the engine oil leaked and soak the cable plug and connector. Changed a new one to avoid cable soaked by oil and finally the ECU choked by oil.
Wondering for the bottom sensors (bank 1 and 2 -exhaust) can be replaced without draining the oil?
No need to drain the oil
Can the oil control valve be faulty without engine light? I have poor accereleration at low rpm's and this is my number one guess. Idle is good and no warning lights.
Wondering if this would resolve a P0011 code. Engine doesn't stall, no rough idle, oil is changed recently, car doesn't run rough at all.
Do I have to replace the camshaft sensor at long with the oil valve ?
the plastic connector decided to break off for me. thanks for the video tho, i thought the process to fix it would be a lot worse.
story of my life. Thanks for the comment and good luck with your repair. maybe grab one off a used harness and solder it in.
Thanks man! Easy. Great design.
I really hope this fixes my problem.
I have a P0018 Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 2 Sensor A).
But now that he is mentioning it as I type this... I am running 05W-30 Synthetic Oil with a K&N Oil Filter... Haha I will revert back.
I got the P0018 code earlier this year. Replaced the part with a new one from Toyota and reset the ecu with OFT. Been running stage1 with the OFT and I've had no issues since.
Did this fix you problem?
Is this a 2.0L? The same engine as the 2013 Subaru Crosstrek XV?
I recently built a new engine for a 2013 that I got that had a spun rod bearing. When I started the car with the new engine I noticed after it warmed up it dropped to a low idle, the throttle became twitchy, wanted to stall and had the check engine light and slip light on. I put a scan tool on it and I have 4 codes p0102 - Mass or Volume air flow circuit low input, p0113 - Intake air temp circuit high input, p0017 - Crankshaft position camshaft position correlation bank 1 sensor b and P219a - Bank 1 Air-fuel imbalance. All four codes are marked permanent. When I delete them they are immediately there again once the scan tool rescans without ever starting the engine. So curious why I would get and p219a code without ever starting the engine? I tested the vvt solenoid and it checks out. It operates on 12 volts, ohms at 8.4, no continuity when grounded, I also checked the power to the plug and am getting 10v with the battery at 12v. Not sure if 10v is the correct voltage at the plug though? I also checked the ocv behind the solenoid and the button is sprung and seems to be working. Trying to avoid pulling the front cover to replace a ocv if possible.
I am having a similar issue. Only thing my code isn't permanent.
I have same issues can you explain me how to clear problem
Im having the same issues after my engine rebuild, did you ever figure it out?
Long shot but. What do we call that White sensor thing on the left. The one next to the copper color thing. Thanks.
would doing this may help solve my P0016 Code frs
if the solenoid is faulty, possibly. but you also need to check the cam sensor and their is a possible issue with the timing being off or the oil control system in the sprocket being defective.
@@subtledriver It can also be that they drove it awhile with the CEL and now the timing is off in the ECU, and have to replace that or possibly have is flashed after they have fixed the original timing issue.
I've got the dreaded P0016 on my Forester XT... I was curious if you replaced the oil control valve and, if so, did P0016 disappear?
Did this work out for you?
Many places suggest you cannot use the updated valve on the 2013 - 2014 engine.
Question so drive with the cel on?
Hello @subtledriver, how did you dignose to change this part? was CEL P000?
Not sure if someones mentioned this but is it possible to throw P0011,P0021, P0244 code with OCV intake sensors out? I removed my valve covers and nothing looked bent or out of place. Now I'm assuming skipped a tooth or OCV out. Input appreciated. Great videos
Any updates bro I'm having exactly the same issue
@@Rise_Ambition what up. Subaru had to replace my ECU. It's been about a year and I haven't had the codes since.
did your car run fine even with the codes on? im having the same issue but my car is running rough
do you possibly know which valve is for p000b? i don't want to be buying all 4 if only 1 is bad.
Kenny exhaust cam bank 2. (opposite bank of cylinder # 1) according to my Google search.....
I have a p000b code too! Did this work for you?! My car is 3 weeks out of warranty and I want to try this before bringing it in.
it went away after i drove to pick up the part. i have the part incase the code comes back on.
Haha wtf mine comes back on every couple hundred miles
Kenny what oil and filter are you using? And how often do you change and check the level?
I got a P000A code. Will this fix it?
Great video! Thanks
Great vid thanks man!
I don't know if I had 3/4 of these go out or if 3/4 of my sprokets went out all at once but I just got a bunch of codes out of nowhere. Now I am running 5w30 as per the turbo kit recommendation.
P0021
P0024
P0014
P0011
P0420
P0018
P0016
P000B
P000D
Try 0w40 instead
Where can I get that o ring and plastic spacer at or will it come with the part?
I got a code it said camshafts timing advances
This it the code talking about, not the camshafts position sensor rite?
basically yes.
What code popped up for you brotha?? I own a frs and feel like I have to do the same thing
I had P000A, got a new part from oreilley. Dorman. Oil change with 0w20 & an aftermarket filter. problem went away for about 3 days, then came back. I ignored it for a month. I then swapped the the solenoids, and the code followed; P000A --> P000C. Ok, so to me, this is confirmation it's the part at fault. So, My dumbass ordered another Dorman part from Oreilley. Changed out the part, and just kept it in the same spot of P000C vs swapping again. I did an Oil change with 0w-20, with a new a Subaru brand filter. This time I left the drain plug out and ran a quart of oil through in hopes it'd clear out any extra debris/gunk. After the reinstall, I reconnected my battery (which resets the codes/clears CEL), scanned and P000C was listed as "historic". After about 4 or 5 days, the code returned; P000C.
Should I just bite the bullet, and redo this procedure with a Subaru brand VVT? Is there anything someone would recommend else I can do? Hitting my head against the wall.
Did you figure this one out?
Will this help to solve codes P0011 and P0021, it revolves around a timing over advanced code for both banks 1 and 2 intake cams.
IF you still get on youtube and see this, I talked with the directors of sales in North America and they are looking into the P0018 code being and issue and the fact that SOOOO many FR-S vehicles get these types of codes constantly and they "DONT KNOW" whats wrong. So, if you never got this fixed please call the number to report a complaint. It will help this all become a recall
@@Chris-ex2sl which number can we call?
@@ej-rg2ww My apologies man, it's been a while I forgot that entire mess. A company bought it at full price and didn't even check it so, I got lucky.
Hello so what exactly was the issue? i get a strong ratteling noise from that part of the vvt. Only when the engine is warm. i dont get any errors when i run a diagnosis with the computer.
Hey man i need your help please 🙏 idk if u heard about the recall and having knocking sounds and all that and im actually having that same issue but im out of warranty what can it be the cause of the engine knocking sound? And got some codes about camshaft vvt timing slow response and all that. Code is p0024 , p0014 , p000b
Then your ocv need to be changed
Thanks
What issues were you having? I'm guessing 1500-2500 rpm engine stumble
Would this solve a p0172?
How to get this part and what is exactly called please let me know if u can mine got rusted from outside in canada
Would p0019 code relate to this? I have a 2015 WRX also are all 4 ocv's the same? Could I theoretically swap 2 and see if the code changes?
I would simply look up the part on subaru parts website and compare them between intake and exhaust. Hopefully you just have a bad OCV and not require a new AVCS gear sprocket :(
Is this the part that goes out, when you boost the FA20 motor?
its 99% of the time the sprocket, im about to replace mine right now. I have p0366 code that comes back instantly. Connector is getting power so im going straight to where the most common issue is. Sprocket.
@@RusstyCoDskills yep, any kind of issues after electrical that deal with either intake cams has always been the sprocket backplate stuck open. Sold my car last April. Haven't missed it since. Lol
Idk if you can help but:
I have a P0020 check engine light on for the cam sensor for bank 2 sensor A. I’ve tried replacing the sensor and checked all others, Cleared the codes and so on. Check engine light goes away and comes back on. What else could it be?
Possibly worth noting, the check engine light for this code did not come on until after we replaced the slave cylinder and clutch, is there anything we could have missed, unplugged, or etc that could be causing the issue?
I have the same issue, did you find your solution?
How would you know if it's the upper or lower one that has gone bad?
The Code will tell you Sensor A is the top one and Sensor B will be the bottom one , they are the same part .
The other part right underneath this one that looks the same, does it go by the same name?
The top one is the Intake side and the bottom one is the exhaust side
But they both use the same external solenoid part .
I'd imagine same for the 2013 Impreza. Mine are working but all completely rusted.
do i have to drain the oil first before doing this?
No
help, my subaru forester oil cap broke, and a little piece of plastic fall into the motor, is it dangerous?
mine has the p000B code. do u think its the same?
same for all 4 sensor ?
Yes, same procedure.
Hey Subtledriver, I was researching for days trying to understand my code P000A (Camshaft position slow response bank 1) on December 2018 but after after one week the CEL disappeared. I decided not to address it. Perhaps a mistake. Now, March 2019, I’ve been on a mission researching code P000B which I understand to be the same problem just a different position (A & B) on the engine.
I have very VERY little knowledge about cars and how they work but I’m trying my best to learn. Scion FRS is my first vehicle I work on. I’m trying to learn and do most of the work myself since I no longer trust Toyota to have knowledge to do the job correctly.
Will the method you used in this video help me with my codes P000A (which no longer appears, but wouldn’t mind addressing) and my current P000B? Also, I took a look at my engine very carefully I noticed I have four of these, what I now I’ve learn to be Actuators. I’m assuming because the engine has four cylinders. Would it best to only change two of these but all four? Thanks in advance. And I apologizing for long message and my ignorance in the question and statements I made, again I’m trying to learn on how cars work. LOL! Thanks again.
Also, on the driver side, bottom actuator (Bank 2 Exhaust side) I see a lot, A LOT of greasy, oily dry grime. I don’t think it’s normal. All three of the other actuators seem to be in better shape, free from the grime. The only people that were allow to ever work on my car was Toyota so I know this isn’t something that I caused. Third question would be, is this normal on an engine and fourthly, if it’s not is it safe to clean it out with a tooth brush and warm water? Thanks again.
kaevn hey sorry if this is too late but did you manage to find a solution for this? I just got the same code
Sorry for the late reply. Yeah, I change the Engine Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoid for Bank 1-A but it’s was actually the camshaft itself that needed to be replace. I had to take it to Toyota because it was out of my car fixing experience. So they had to work on for a few days. It was a big job. Cost a lot to repair.
Hey mate,oiling at purchasing a turbo 86 but it has this code. Was Ur car acting up at all with this code because this car runs beautifully.. Can't imagine it being a camshaft? Owner says it's a dirty cam position sensor but don't trust it. When you replaced the ocv did you immediately realise it was not the issue or did it take some time for the code to reappear?
*looking
can a bad ocv lead to over advance timing?
it is possible, yes.... but it is also possible you have other more expensive issues. but this is a good place to start.
subtledriver I just rebuilt my motor
so maybe someone didnt time the chain correctly, or re-used older cam sprockets.
subtledriver I followed the service manual. But it's possible I did something wrong.
Is there just the one oil control valve I notice a similar looking one underneath it, thanks in advance
There are 4 total, one for each cam.
which part is the p000b?
All 4 cams use the same part. The latest version is 10921AA241
I have a jdm fa20e. My oil cap says 5w30
Torque spec?
I asked the dealership last week about this. 5 lbs.
Would this help resolve P0018?
Were you able to get rid of the P0018?
@@ManuelXx8xX i have subaru xv 2014 and my car have p0018 and noone can fix it
Did you ever fix it
Is this for a p0016? I've got low oil pressure as well...
low oil pressure from the pump? or to the cam?
yea i have P0016 Code too will this help im not sure if i have low oil pressure or not i recently change my oil too so it should be fine
Matt Jones have you got that code fixed ? I got that code too
Bobby Sitanggang did this help your code ? Or what else did you to ? I have that code and my check engine is on with traction control
Thrill Original I’ve the same code and issue too, already changed the censors and the cel is still on. Have you got it fixed?
I got a 2015 sti. And my cel came on giving me the code for cam shaft slow response bank1 and subaru says its my oil control valve which they gonna fix on tuesday.. this is the second time i took it because of ocv. Im just making sure they know what they are doing im tired of taking it in
_nfamous this is completely different motor to the sti. the wrx has the same type of setup. if under warranty, let them do their process.
tired of taking it in! lol second time, lol
There are 5 of these. How do u know which one is faulty
the code will tell you.
If that valve goes out will it throw a cel?
It will literally cause engine problems like rod knocking sound
@@Rise_Ambition but will it throw a cel? How would I know if it was bad? Leaking? Or probe the connection?
Just got P0018 code a few weeks ago. This is the same thing correct? Cam sensor bank 2 sensor A. Not sure which sensor that is on the car tbh.
what did you do to fix it? That's the same issue I'm having
I believe this is the exact same sensor for p0018. I have the exact same issue. I just pulled the part of a spare motor and I will one day find the time to install it.
@@joshuaszeto did you ever fix this code by installing a new OCV?
@@ardikasulistija6574 I swapped the solenoid and the issue remained. Oddly enough, I tried to clear the code and it doesn't come back until I shut the car off. Next time I start it again, the code is still gone for a random amount of time. Usually it will come back when I am either at a stop or going slowly and put a huge load on the engine like hard acceleration. But there is no mechanical issues when the code is cleared. The timing is where it should be, power delivery is as it should be. I will try to swap the sensors and maybe also the ecu if anyone has a spare one. Eventually I will probably go haltech or motec
@@joshuaszeto yeah everytime I clear the code, the car runs perfectly. I tried swapping the sensors but it remained on the same side (same code, P0018). My friend and I will next trouble shoot the OCV sensor. Did you ever happen to flash your ECU with Open flash tablet btw? I flashed it to e85 and the reflashed it back to the UEL 93 tune, so I'm curious if that may have caused the issue.
ALWAYS use thicker oil in a subaru.
I’m having code P0017. Anything to do with this OCV?
Same issue ATM. Did you ever have any luck? I'm having a terrible idol randomly.
@@CONSTANTLY_ changing the RH side exhaust cam gear solved my problem.
Most of the time it'll fix your issue if you're throwing code P0017
@@TheRed86 so replacing the control valve didn't help your issue?
@@CONSTANTLY_ no, ocv valve hardly gv issue
@@CONSTANTLY_ u can try swapping the ocv, if it still throwing the same code then it's the cam gear.
Hello, is this for P000B code?
Kim Gary Have you fixed the problem? I have the same code
Unknown Drift did this fix your problem
I got P000c A bank 2 what does that mean anyone?
What ??
Mine went out all four at once... Diagnostic code shows for all P000A to D :(
change your oil/filter with new synthectic 0w20 and reset, see what happens. did they all come on at once, or over time fail, one-by-one?
subtledriver All at once. I have changed the oil and the filter just yesterday and reset👌 But it's so hard to race up to 5k rpm. Maybe I'll.drive around for 2 weeks or so as per.your description. Less likely they fail all at once, the only common thing all four has is the engine oil and the filter
Will this going bad cause low power or hesitation in acceleration? Also do the left and the right cylinder head run the same timing advance and retard ... while engine is operating ?
Hopefully this fixes my p000C
this is the first step, I would also reflash the pcm with updated firmware and change the oil with fresh 0w20. If not, you will need to replace the cam sprocket (aka oil control valve) and/or pcm as well.
subtledriver My fully built motor has 500 miles on it. The p000a and p000c came on the first time at 100~ miles. Using 10w40 mineral. Switched to 5w30 synthetic and now all I'm getting is p000c. Entire motor is new except the timing cover and solenoids so my 2013 one could just be going out.
who built this motor (i would ask them if they used a brand new 2017 cam gear set and oil control valves)? is it a 2013-14? the 15 and up have been revised. if they used older parts, its probably just "expected" if your bearing clearances are close to stock, i would try resetting codes, and run 0w20 through it, or 0w30. and see if it comes back.
subtledriver definitely not running 0w20 unless if it gets really cold here in Tennessee this summer. I'll try 0w30 once I switch my solenoid if it still comes back.
Emerld coast motorsports at built fa20 built my motor. The motor from my understanding is all brand new but not the 2017+ model. So I guess 2014-2016
there is a difference between first year 2012/13/14 vs 2015 and up the parts have been revised many times and old part numbers superseded. 0w20 is what we race on the track with in 100 degree weather, its also how the factory robot built motors are built for. the variable valve timing system doesnt like too thick of oil, or it wont flow properly in the small passages. too think of an oil will cause internal engine damage. I would not even switch the solenoid, i would try the factory oil first and see what happens. my customers get vvt codes if they run too thick of an oil. so keep that in mind. too thick will also cause overheating and drag/ loss of power. so unless the bearing clearance and vvt passages were set up for slow moving/oldschool engine oils, i would try factory fill (will not damage anything unless you abuse the hell out of it) and see what happens. if there is still a problem, you need to take it up with your builder. you need to ask if they used updated parts, or old problematic parts.
Part no., 10921AA240.
Updated part number: 10921AA241
TripleTapHK will the newly revised 10921aa241 fit the 2013 brz/frs models?
This man didn’t give any part number nor code.
subaru part #:10921AA231