DeWalt 20V Max 3AH Battery Repair
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 พ.ย. 2024
- In this video we take a look into the DeWalt 20V Max 3AH pack. This is the first time I have had the 20V Max on the bench and it is really neat how simple it is. We replace 2 cells which is very easy with no grid and structure retaining the cells once disconnected. We also get the charge level indicator going again. I really like how with this pack you can check all cell voltages externally through the pack connector. Except the cells monitoring all the smarts are really inside the charger/tools, I like that a lot! Hope you find the video helpful. Thanks for watching!
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I love the craftsmanship and attention to detail. I was a little worried about heating the new cells but obviously he knows what he's doing and has tested this type of repair long term.
I do like spot welding better. With new install and new nickel strips, I would spot weld. When I have a tested good used cell and reusing tabs from old pack them I will solder to get a pack back in great working condition. Kind of in-between the to nice to not spend time getting it going and not wanting to rebuild it completely. I have had luck doing this for years just heat and solder quick and cool off so no excess heat in the cells. It's hard spot welding used cells and used strips together properly. Thanks for your comment.
Best explanation and breakdown of the Lithium Battery Pack I've seen. Thanks so much for the video
very good .i have heard different manufactures have protections in the charger and others in the battery .i hooked up a dewalt 2ah battery thru a buck convertor regulated to 12v. i goofed up and let discharge down to 3v.it would not charge it so i give a shock treatment ,it came back to life and took a charge, seems okay. i am going to watch again in case i missed something . anyway i was very impressed
Glad it came back for you. Sometimes the capacity is deminished when they discharge too far. The low cut out boards are very handy. I am doing a shirt video on a smaller 20A board right now.
The few packs that I know of that will cut the power from the power terminals of the packs itself are the TTI brands. The Ryobi, Ridgid and not sure about the Hart, that is usually the failure point on these as well. Most others including Dewalt and Makita the pack monitors the cells but signals to the tools to shutdown.
thanks for sharing this. I had a lot of questions on how this battery worked, and its connections, all of them were answered by watching this one video.
As a self-proclaimed battery geek, I love these videos. I have learned a lot from them. Thanks you.
I would love to see you dig into some issues with the Ryobi 40V batteries. They seem to "break" often.
Thanks for your comment!
Yes they do break often. I have been into the 40V packs and they are so problematic, I put off posting the video because it was hard to not be negative! It's a bad design and I mentioned how they fail so often that I ran my 40v Ryobi stuff on 2 Makita batteries in series and the tools ran fine but with make shift batteries. I did that until I bought my EGO equipment! I may still post the video about the 40v if people may find it helpful?
Yes, please I would love to see them. Most common issue I see is the power meter flashing, yet cells have full, or near full charge.
Thank you again.
I just bought 6 packs off of E-bay for the cells for $90 and the seller seems to have a ton left so yea, they seem to crap out a lot.
@@ipissed
A viewer mentioned in the comments a while back about going to Home Depot and asking if you can go through the recycled batteries box to get some bad packs/cells. It''s a little odd asking that and they look at you sideways 😂 but, they have always said OK.... Last time I checked it was loaded with the Ryobi 40v packs!
@@ThriftyToolShed thats a great idea! take em home , testing and taking out the good cells to make a working battery pack! i may try this next time i go to HD or lowes. i could always use more battery cells!
Thanks for this video I've had a couple DeWalt batteries go out on me before but this gave me the knowledge to repair them.
Quick tip for anyone who is too scared to repair them. Buy new ones with cash, swap the insides, and then return them saying they don't work a week later.
Sweet idea...DeWalt put'n bone in the consumer...screw'm
Thanks man!
Helped out a lot. I realized the batteries in my 2a were all at 3.5 except for one that was at 4.0...batteries are 5 years old. Pack dies under severe stress.
Great vid. Learned a lot here. I have a Dewalt 20v 5.0ah XR lithium with Bluetooth for Tool Connect that won’t charge. Charger goes into Hot/Cold delay and never charges for this battery. Too expensive to throw away. Will rewatch vid an hopefully I can find the bad cells and replace them.
Not familiar with that exact pack, but if temperature error make sure to check the NTC thermistors and there connections. Best of luck to ya!
Really informational. One of the better videos I've watched on tool lithium Batteries.
Thanks for your kind comment!
Thank you. Mine is the Mac red 20v max and it was glued to the top. Was kinda hard not to brake the board getting it apart. Easy fix with the ground being un soldered.
Love how you're using a Milwaukee drill to open a dewalt battery
I ran through four, 6ah Flexvolt batteries on the new Dewalt 60V chainsaw. Went to charge them and only get a solid light. Tried resetting or jumping pack to pack, etc. Nothing works. I'm mad lol. These things are hundreds a piece. Killed them all but they are over the 2 year warranty (which is the warranty as I understand)
So solid Red is charged on your charger as well I assume then. What is your measured voltage at the pack terminals? I understand the frustrations of bad packs for sure, alot of what drove me to create this channel to share anything we can figure out about these expensive suckers and keep our money and tools from the landfill, lol.
I have never worked on the flex volt pack myself, but should be similar to other packs just larger and more terminals so some tools get 60V from the pack so all in series and only 2ah or 20v with 3 sets in parallel giving 6ah I assume.
the best battery repair i ever seen ,good👍👍 job
Excellent work! Thanks for posting!
This is exactly what I needed, checking for what kind of secondary protection IC it has. BQ771803 at 13:50
Any idea if the 60V Max use the same chip?
Great video work easy to understand, fantastic job
Excellent video, easy to follow, I will tried to fix one of my DeWalt pack. thanks
Thanks very much for great vid❤
Great Video - When replacing the batteries, you mention to utilize a compatible battery size. I have similar DCB200 3.0Ah but when disassembly my battery does not reference a number that I haven't been able to cross on the web UBNX4A3 008165. And in your video you show replacing with Samsung INR18650 15M and I didn't hear you mention the CDR rating such as 15A lower or higher. Such as a Samsung 30Q 3000mAh 15A. At the price of $4-8 each is it better to replace them all at one time? And if replacing all could you increase from 1500mAh to 3000mAh as well or would it require to modify the board on the unit?
I absolutely believe replacing all cells at once is the best practice. I rarely do it because I have so many packs and parts that I always have some good working cells that I have tested and they work great to get an older pack back with still very useful capacity. When I mention compatible battery, I meant even though they are all 18650 physical size, we have to get close as possible on the mAh rating as well as the discharge amp rating. Another important check can be the charge rate allowed, some older cells are not rated for fast charging, some are only 1C rated for charge current and some maybe 2C or 3C etc. I really like to replace 18650 cells with the exact replacement if possible honestly. From time to time just to keep a pack from being garbage, I will put a used cell in that is really close to the same specs. When replacing all new cells, in most packs it is fine to "upgrade" or step up the mAh rating of the cells as long as the internal pack elements like any possible fuse or fuse link or jumpers etc. Are rated for the higher current capable cells. Hope it helps!
I didn't know you could test the cells while they were still connected to each other...thought you had to disconnect them from the cell cluster to get a proper reading!
In parallel you can't test the individual cell. Since they are in parallel though, we simply test Voltage as they will be the same as each other. That does not mean one does not have issues for sure. It's just that almost always if a cell has an issue it shows up on both right. If one is bad and pulling down, it will pull both down etc. If one is open for example and not working at all the other cell will show dropping off much quicker than others under a load. At this point we would have to separate them to test which of the 2 is an issue, I always replace both anyway though. So to answer your question, it is not Proper way just a quick troubleshooting method.
Hi there sir, I have disassembled about 12 18-volt Dewalt batteries, is it worth trying to figure which individual cells can be saved, maybe weld some that might charge back together. I'm an old retired man and love tinkering with things. I have separated all the batteries so their single batts now. Just trying to see if I'm kicking a dead horse or not, lol. Sure would liket to hear from you. thanks!
Hi,
I do believe replacing with brand new cells is the best option for sure. I do also keep cells and do just as you have mentioned. I will test all cells for capacity and even leave them in storage to check the cell and verify it holds charge as well. I will sort cells based on the capacity tested at also the internal resistance the best I can with an OPUS charger etc. I mentioned a little bit more about this in the video called " Lithium Battery FAQ#1". Have fun. It can be a great and fun hobby working on things like this. Best of luck to ya!
I was going to repair a bad 20 VDC 2 Ah Dewalt pack until I realized it was going to cost me more (to repair) than a new 4AH Dewalt pack. By the time I invested in replacement cells and a spot welder, I was up over the cost of a NEW 4Ah unit. Soldering would work, but my temperature-controlled pencil doesn't get hot enough to make it a quick job, so I'd have to buy a new gun as well.
Yes, if you only use the spot welder for one repair it is not worth it at all. Some people feel this way and I understand that. It's easy for me to view it the same way I do any tool or any repair. I may have $10K in tools but I never used them on one vehicle repair or on any particular vehicle, but I use them often and on many projects. I spend money on parts, but nothing like the dealership and auto shops charge. Like an oil change the first time I bought a jack was an expensive oil change and the lube place was much cheaper that one time. So it's definitely how you look at it and how far you are willing to go. Cells can be costly and I have mentioned before cheaper ways to get them at times like the sale items at 18650batterystore.com etc. I personally enjoy making my packs even better than new and cheaper, but every one is different. Just sharing the options if viewers do enjoy DIY. Thanks for your comment.
Dude. Well done. That was fun. Thanks.
Thanks so much for your comment!
Thanks for the video, I have a question.... ¿where can I buy parts to fix my battery?
I just cracked open a 60v.....um yikes I think ill just drink a beer and look at it
Did you ever fix it?
@patmaloney5735
I do have a couple videos on the FlexVolt. Tool scientist mentioned he will be working on a FlexVolt video as well. So it should be really good information!
good walkthrough. Thank you.
Excellent video extremely thorough
I found most li-ion packs that show uneven cell voltage are just out of balance so just
balance the low ones to match the others and put it in charge and go .
In many videos I have shown that the reason most of these get unbalanced is because over time cells get decreased capacity and when capacity testing you will find these cells are very unmatched and for that reason alone most of the time not all the time these cells will pull down and end up unbalanced again. I try to match my replacement cells very closely in capacity as well as internal resistance. Sometimes balancing cells back up works short term. Thanks for your comment!
impressive work. What is considered too dead for the charger to recognize ? I've got a 20v Dewalt battery that is at 14v, and won't charge. Each individual cell measures 2.74
That level is the borderline line. I would think most DeWalt chargers will still charge @ or above around 2.5V each cell. I would most likely manually charge that pack a little and then if still not charging I would look at the individual cells really well. If they are that well balanced then I would check the spot welds on each cell end and the soldered wire to the board for cell monitoring.
Best of luck to ya!
I have a 20v Max battery pack that has been wet. I replaced 3 cells that were bad. Now shows to have 20v after charging each cell independently. The led lights all 3, but when put on charger it blinks one time and shuts off? When I try it in a drill the illumination led comes on when the trigger is pulled but just for a second.
Doesn't even try to run the drill, but doesn't drop any voltage. Drill works fine with other batteries. I will take the board off and look at it more closely, but don't know enough about components to identify them all. Just a challenge that I have to pursue !!!
Challenge indeed. If the 20v is not dropping off, I would say for sure yes, it is in the board. I tried to touch a little on how the board monitors the pack in the DeWalt repair videos. Hopefully something will show up when checking accross the individual cells connection, the NTC thermistor connection, and the feedback "resistance" connection.
Best of luck to ya!
Good stuff. My kind of channel.
Excellent Job mate. Thanks for sharing. Cheers
It is amazing because you can repair dewalt battery, but it is better if you make the soldering with spot welder, It's just by the high temperature side by side onto the cell 18650 may be peel off. Specially with saw and grinder, the battery is overheating.
Thanks for your comment. Are you asking is spot welding better than soldering?
@@ThriftyToolShed I mean, soldering on 18650 batteries is better with spot welding than soldering iron and solder wire.
Yes, I agree and in several videos I have mentioned that and I am about to post the 60V Flex Volt repair video. In that video I repair with mostly spot welding. It is difficult sometime to spot weld on repair packs unless time is taking to prep the cells and strips very well unless it's all new strips and cells and good surface. But, one thing I try to mention alot is that we don't want to get the cell too warm, so quick with a high wattage iron and cool quickly.
Thanks for your comment!
This is an awesome video as the same thing happened to me I only got one question how did you find The way to unscrew those screws I can't figure it out what kind of tool is it
Security torx bit set is what you need to fit the screws. Similar to these...
amzn.to/3QDoM7O
A beautiful thing to watch - smooth as 12 year old scotch. Thanks
Thank you so much for your kind comment!
Who else thinks the thumbnail is on point?
Are there any electronics that can't be soaked in vinegar or alcohol or any other liquid without getting damaged?
Awesome tutorial, sir! If I have this same pack, can I not upgrade all pf my cells and have a 5ah or higher pack? Would I have to use a different bms circuit board or find a different one?
I have not done that to say for sure. I would think going from 4ah to 5ah would be OK. Thanks for your comment!
Hi Friend, I am trickle charging my car battery through Dewalt 20V using LM2596 and it's working really good and have been using it for about an year from now. Now my question is I want to protect my Dewalt Battery from going too low on Voltage and I tried using XH-M609 and LM2596 together but it didn't work. Now what do you suggest me to buy which might help. I appreciate any help please.
Thank you for this video mr
Very good ... think if you capable to do this yourself self it's a cheap fix ... if you have to take it to a shop for a repair would it really be cost effective???
I have always enjoyed fixing things and learning more about how things work. You either enjoy it or you don't. With paying someone labor it would be really hard to come out ahead of course. Especially in a complete cell replacement of a pack. Cells are typically around $4-$6 each. I test and keep spare cells and I enjoy learning. Many people comment that their time is worth more than that and that's up to them. If you enjoy it as a hobby, you don't look at it that way. Not typically cost effective to pay someone else though. Thanks for your comment!
@ThriftyToolShed thanks for the reply I've got one that needs fixing if you want to have a look at it 🤠🍻
This is gold.
Thanks alot learned alot from this video
Note: Don't use a paper clip. as soon i connected the negative it turned super hot. Use insulated wire
What are you using the paperclip mentioned for? Are you replacing the wire from cells to board?
Thrifty Tool Shed reboot battery that will not charge
@@jayare1851 What are you connecting the jumper to when you "reboot" as you call it?
Do you think you can do a video on a DeWalt 12Volt battery repair?
If I come across one I will surely try to get to it. Thanks for your comment.
@@ThriftyToolShed Thank you
Nice videos very detailed 😀
Can you please tell me where you sourced your replacement batteries? Great video by the way.
Thanks for your comment.
Sorry, I keep lots of spare cells from almost new packs parted out as well as other cells tested very well for capacity. I just about always have what I need for spares. I usually do not recommend cells because so many times it's hard to verify that they are not fake cells. The main thing to make sure is that the seller is truly selling genuine cells. Of course we should always keep the capacity of the cells exactly the same. The manufacturers even match cells based on test data. I try to keep them very similar.
@@ThriftyToolShed oh okay no worries and thanks for the information.. I'll have to learn how to test the capacity so I can safely do this myself. That said, I'd sourced a "genuine" Samsung 21700 from someone in the UK for what seemed like a fair price. What's the risk I face if I replace the dead cell in my pack with this one if it's ingenue/vastly different capacity? Thanks!
The 21700 is different size than the 18650 physically the 18 is 18mm diameter and the 650 is 65.0mm long I believe. So the 21700 would be 21mm dia. and 70mm long I believe. I have always stuck with the 18650 cells so dimensions are the same and try to stay around the same capacity. Most packs may not care if all cells are replaced with higher capacity, but I am unsure, some may not like it.
@@ThriftyToolShed yeah my 3AH battery pack has the 21700s in it interestingly enough.
That is very interesting! I have not seen a pack with the 21700s in them yet, I did hear awhile back some manufacturers were looking at putting these in them. That awesome! I wanted to mention that most are 18650 in case you were not fimilar with the difference. My thoughts were that most packs old enough to be giving issues would not have the 21700s yet. Great to know!
I find when trying to pry as delicately as i can , that I always almost always leave a small pin size puncture on the flat side of the negative end of the battery. Releasing a sweet smell. I have always assumed that it was the electrolyte of the battery or the lithium. What are your thoughts on procedure and if what was released was in fact electrolytes or lithium. I find that leaving the nickel tabs cut short but not pried off is more practical for me. Thanks.
Yes, with my experience if you smell the sweet smell you have infact puntured the cell case and the CID protection is most likely not working any longer. I have non-issue leaving tabs on mine sometimes, but if they are being reused it is usually too thick to work back in a battery case.
When I use the flat nose pliers I rarely have issues pulling the tabs off. Usually the little dots stay on the cell and the strip Rips and pulls away.
@Thrifty Tool Shed thanks for the reply. Just looked up what CID protection was (haha). I did wonder about that as I saw a video where a guy pushed down on them to reset a dead battery. On further reading, it looks like not a great idea. One thing I could not get a clear answer on was that 1, 2 second hissing and sweet smell. Info on that varied all over the place. Was it the electrolyte or lithium? Thanks again for your time and thoughts on it. preciate it.
I believe it is the electrolyte. The electrolyte in a lithium-ion battery is flammable and generally contains lithium hexafluorophosphate (LiPF6) or other Li-salts containing fluorine. I believe this pressure builds up high enough it will press out on the positive tip of the cell to activate the CID protection. I have an older video talking a bit about the CID.
th-cam.com/video/yididXWl9D0/w-d-xo.html
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks for the reply and information. Great Chanel 👍
What do you use for cleaning the surface before soldering ?
I usually use a little Emory cloth to clean and rough up the surface, then high % isopropyl alcohol and also use Flux. Something like RA rosin flux works well but you will have to clean up the flux residue a bit with some alcohol also.
I pulled the 4 sccrews off and the top does not come off. I think they glued it on.
Very good !
So one of my battery's got broken. I noticed a tab torn away from the ground wire inside the pack. However now the battery will not charge. What's the relevance with this extra piece of metal? Connected to the ground
I am not sure of which tab you are referring to. These packs do have a thinner tab used as a fusible link connected at the minus side on some. That may be what you are seeing. Its hard to say. If you have Facebook you can share a photo on our Facebook group called On The Bench, and you can get clearer answers that way usually.
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks for the reply it is a tab inside attached to the ground at the battery cell. Then the plastic cover has a foil tape above it anyway the wire is still soldered on but with that extra now broken off. When I plug it to charge the light comes on then goes out. Then nothing.the cells are all good also. Thanks for you input much appreciated. And great video.
what cells do I buy, unfortunately there are no labels on the batteries, it is the DCB204 4ah battery
18650batterystore.com has lots to choose from depending on the capacity you are looking for.
Great!
Thanks mate
Hi what’s that heat gun by way ?i have fun like that a weller and don’t get hot quick 😂
It is a weller 150W. The reason it starts off well is the Rosin flux. The flux helps tremendously in heat transfer as well as help with impurities in the solder joint.
@@ThriftyToolShed is that pure rosin flux or what ratio please
.whats the cloth you dab joints with after ?
I use a RA rosin activated flux, especially for the larger and older parts that need all the help it can get on the surface. It is superior to the no clean flux on the larger and oxidized parts for sure. It helps great with older wire as well when soldering to the old strands. The cloth or tissue I use is simply a damp cloth to cool the cell faster to keep the heat from pulling into cell. Although we are taught it is best not to rapid cool a solder joint, one with this much adhesion area and importance of the cell temperature is why I always cool these.
Sir I’d like to credit your expertise in this type of work wish I knew more about this . Do you work on others batteries and if so do you have contact information? If not who do I reach out to for this type of work? Thank you
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in an Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have found with a repair as we learn together. I don't have a lot of time left. I hope you can find someone you know that likes to tinker and hopefully after watching the video can help you out. I wish you the best of luck with yours.
Awesome Job.
12:36 Is that an important technique right there? Were you pushing down hard with the screwdriver to make this solder joint better? 'cause that makes the joint stick to the battery and the connector better.?
I feel like it does help and also provides a heatsink to cool even faster. So both are positives, I believe. I basically always spot weld these days since spot welders have finally gotten pretty good for reasonable prices. I have many newer videos showing using the cheaper spot welder boards powered by Lipo packs, and they work well. I shared the solder method back then since I had success with it for many years (as long as the cells don't heat up much). I started with this soldering technique working with the older NiCad Packs in the 90s. Many discourage Soldering with Li-ion, but I learned it was still fine if you did it really quick. I am not arguing with the point that spot welders are best if you have one, though!
ok , that was a dumb question any way. what about my other question: do you know if soaking pcbs to clean them can damage any kind of electronic components or should it be ok if you let everything dry sufficiently? I have been reluctant to get things wet. Because I'm not sure if it will break anything. thank you. if you don't have time for this i totally understand. TY for your time. i will watch the newer videos soon
I somehow missed this question, but I see it now in this comment. I soak boards in 99% IPA and I have not had any issues. The main concern is electrolytic capacitors or possibly relays on a board that could hold the liquid in and drying time may have to be extended much longer than simple allowing the board surface dry. I would be careful with any thing less than 91% alcohol. If it still has the battery power connected to the board, I would only use plastic safe electronics cleaner designed for use on live circuits for that.
Hello
I have a brand new Dewalt battery 20v 5Ah that doesn’t charges. I already jumped it with another one and still doesn’t do anything
What should I do ???
Can’t return it because I bought it in Facebook Marketplace
I LOVE THRIFT!!!!!
Hey everyone, the best results that ive ever had was by using the Magic Mender Wizard (i found it on google) definately the best course that I have ever followed.
92q
Does the tool needs any extra inputs to work other than B+B-? I have a made battery pack for Dewalt dcf880 but it doesnt worked
Most tools connect to 4 terminals. The power as well as the TH for temperature monitoring and C3 which is most likely measuring the C3 cell to also check if it gets below say 2.7 - 2.9v it will most likely shut down tool. I have not experienced alot with these, so I assume it reads the 20V if it drops below say 14-15V it will shut down or individually based off of C3? That if it drops below say 2.8V and if TH or thermistor gets out of range! Not 100% on these, I have worked on a few,but not a lot of experience on them. I shared in the video most of what I have learned so far really.
Thank you for your repair videos, has helped me greatly to repair my Dewalt batteries.
Question: if positive and negative terminal test 19v and all cluster cells showing balanced 3.5 something volts
But the ID terminal to positive shows 13-14 volts only which causes charger not to charge
Have you seen this issue before ?
Thank you
Hi,
I can remember measuring from ID to negative terminal in ohms and getting around 820 ohms (type 2 pack) and reading from TH to positive reading around 9k-10K at room temperature. It is way more to the circuit of course than just resistance and it was just the measurement that I read once I realized the ID circuit has a transistor that will seemingly put the resistor in the circuit for the tool to see if the board was in good health. Just an observation. Glad you found the videos helpful. Thanks so much for your kind comment!
Where do you get the new battery cells from?
I keep lots of spare cells from almost new packs parted out as well as other cells tested very well for capacity. I just about always have what I need for spares. I usually do not recommend cells because so many times it's hard to verify that they are not fake cells. The main thing to make sure is that the seller is truly selling genuine cells. I have used 18650batterystore.com with good success!
This. This was what I was searching for, thanks a lot man.
So, if I want to use a different brand battery pack (same voltage of course: Parkside X20V Team) on a DeWalt 18v XR series drill, how can I trick him into believing it's its battery I hooked up? Maybe connect TH to B+, so that the tool would always "sense" a normal temperature? The drill doesn't even move a tiny bit with only the powerpoles connected, it just flashes the LEDs near the chuck when I press the trigger, then absolutely nothing. I thank everybody in advance for the help!!!
Good job
I have Dewalt 20v DCS381 reciprocating saw and a 3.0 battery just like that one.i have a quick charger and the battery charges good and the power is good.but when it gets down to one dot the saw drags like it was a Ni -cad battery. Do you know why it might be doing that.Cuz i've never had a Lithium battery do that before.
I have not had a Li-ion do that either unless it was going below the lower voltage limit of the cells. I do notice the packs get a little bit weaker/ lower during the end of run time, but like you mention it is nothing like the old Ni-Cad days. Just wondering if the same pack does the same thing in other tools or does other packs do the same thing in the Jigsaw?
I would test the individual cells when it pulls down low and see if by chance one or more of the cells has dropped off more than the others in series. None of the cells should reach below 2.7V or so. If so you may have a bad cell(s) even though typically the pack should shut down before depleting that low. The neat thing about these packs is that you can test the cells voltage from the outside of the pack like I showed in the video. I really like that about these packs, that some test points are available like that.
Where did you purchase the replacement battery cells?
I keep lots of spare cells from almost new packs parted out as well as other cells tested very well for capacity. I just about always have what I need for spares. I usually do not recommend cells because so many times it's hard to verify that they are not fake cells. The main thing to make sure is that the seller is truly selling genuine cells. I have had good luck in the past finding what I need in stock at 18650batterystore.com.
i shorted a new dewalt 12v 5a pack trying to wire a light on a motorcycle. i heard something pop maybe a fuse? can it be fixed?
Possibly, I have not worked on a 12V DeWalt myself, but it may have a fuse or like most packs has a thinner part of the nickel strip coming from the cells to the board that act as a fusible link. You have to look inside and most likely it will be obvious if it has a strip that has blown. Best of luck to ya!
Good stuff man!👍🏻
Had to laugh at the like loading an over and under 😅 it's such a manly comment. It's a great video! I'm really enjoying watching it and it's so informative and helpful to me. But it did make me lol because it was such a stereotypically manly comment! Reminds me of all my cousins 💛
i was wondering if i can connect the battery to a hobby lipo balance charger, will it charge without issue?
I have done it without issue. using the balance leads is the best option for charging of course, but to me it does pose the most risk of damaging something on the DeWalt board. Straight to the plus and minis is typically not an issue, but the balance checking will need to be monitored manually.
@@ThriftyToolShed ok nice, what are the TH and ID pins on the pack, what do they do?
@@devjitpaul1191
I have shared this in some of the DeWalt pack videos in more detail. TH is temperature feedback from the packs NTC and ID is a resistor in the circuit to feedback which type of pack it is.
@@ThriftyToolShed thank you
Where did you buy the replacement batteries?
th-cam.com/video/f9SOPVEqgkw/w-d-xo.html
I use white vinegar in my bucket.window cleaner 37years 😀
Did you clean the windows up on tall towers etc?
Gracias saludos bro🎉
I have a 4ah that shows that it is charging and then I use it and it goes dead in a few seconds of use. Any idea what could be the problem? It's really not got that much use on it I don't think.
My guess would either be a bad cell dropping off quickily (similar in some degree to the repair video) or maybe even a loose connection to one of the cells (either power connection or the cell monitoring circuit) It could still be a bad NTC or bad monitoring circuit board, but less likely if it is happy charging! Best of Luck to ya! Thanks for your comment!
Qual a especificação da bateria que vc usou?
This is a good video
Thanks for your comment!
Where do you buy the replacement cells?
Sorry, I keep lots of spare cells from almost new packs parted out as well as other cells tested very well for capacity. I just about always have what I need for spares. I usually do not recommend cells because so many times it's hard to verify that they are not fake cells. The main thing to make sure is that the seller is truly selling genuine cells.
What battery did you use for the rebuild?
I have lots of spares that I test and store by there amp and capacity rating from spare packs over the years. I have some new cells also, but lots of my repairs of older packs, I will use the tested used cells. Of course the exact replacement is best, I have great success with very similar cells as long as capacity and amp rating is the same!
You know your stuff.
Thanks for your kind comment!
Don't think this will work for mine. Because it was not a battery issue.
Turns out that these packs have a "fusible link" inside. Mine burned in two. Apparently, it got very hot and melted the inside plastic as well! Can't find any video to show this. Looking for a replacement has turned up nothing.
I have the same problem. I have a new 5.0ah battery that stopped working and the charger wouldn't even light up when I try to charge...I tried jumping from one charged battery to this bad one but it didnt work. I cant dind anything on any type of fuse inside... have you had any luck fixing yours yet??
Eaton 5 amp fused link, connect anywhere in series with batteries and output, don't forget to bridge out original fused link
Hi,
I am just now seeing this part of the comments here for whatever reason. Just to mention these packs can produce very high current in many cases over 100A depending on the pack. It's just a moment and then it will drop down to under 20A for many tools (again depending on what it is). The 5A link mentioned will not last long in many tools it may actually work in some drills and drivers, but not many. Usually these have a link much like the nickel strips attacking the cells together. You will see a spot that is more narrow than the other strips and that is the weakest link on purpose. I typically add in a thin nickel strip.
Where buy the cells. How much each ...👍
I usually have cells from donors from collecting bad packs and testing as I mentioned in the video Lithium Battery FAQ #1.
th-cam.com/video/f9SOPVEqgkw/w-d-xo.html
Hi which do you recomend 5amp or 20 voltios max
What exactly are you asking?
@@ThriftyToolShed ups which batteries do you recomend dewalt 20 vlt 5 amp or 20 volt max lithium ion
Interesting video but it's left me with some questions. How is the BQ7718 used to prevent over charging and how is the pack protected from over discharge?
Although I have not had the charger apart or the newer tools for that matter. I believe in the DeWalt 20V Max the charger and tool is taking the condition from the connections and the pack protection is done in the charger and tools controller. Thanks for your comment!
Late reply, but I'm just looking into protection circuitry. the BQ7718 does balancing and protects against overvoltage. It's designed to be used with a fuse that the 7718 can blow on demand if one of the cells is FUBAR or the pack is over a preset voltage that would depend on which 7718x it is. That kind of fuse would be something like the SFK-3030 or Littelfuse ITV5432L2030. F1, though, looks like a standard 2-pin fuse
The charger or the tool itself would interpret the temperature sensor data and manage other protections. The 7718 just counts as 'secondary protection', aka nothing programmable, just a failsafe.
The 2.4V cells deserve a second chance before replacing them. New generation of cells recover fully after a low discharge. I would say 2.4V is not a even a deep discharge, it's safe to bring them back to 3.3 and balance the pack. I have a video restoring 0.1V, yes, 0.1V depleted cells that actually work. See here: th-cam.com/video/ouqORBMTU1s/w-d-xo.html .
I truly give all cells a second chance. I guess it's been a while so not sure what this comment is really referring to exactly, but I have many videos on lithiums over the last 5 years with some at close to zero volts and some just below cut off voltage. It should always be checked with capacity testing as I mention in many videos and I have a video explaining my testing of Lithium cells in " Lithium Battery FAQ#1"
th-cam.com/video/f9SOPVEqgkw/w-d-xo.html
@@ThriftyToolShed this is more for other people seeing your particular video, not to challenge you on how you fix batteries in the present times. You actually show in your video (one that I commented) that you replace the 2.4V cells. That was all I wanted to say. Kudos for all your other videos, very informative.
Thanks for sharing!
Man...not sure what I did wrong but that thing burnt my neighbor's garden shed down after I hacked the voltage!
Man, what did you hack?
Yeah, Lithium is no joke. I have a video called "Lithium Battery FAQ #1" that talks about how Lithium cells should be respected for sure.
Do you know what is that white thing at 8:06 next to your left thumb ??
You might be asking about the white silicone blob that is under where the board is mounted. It is support for the thermistor on the bottom of the board. When you pull the board up, the Thermistor pulls up from this blob.
@@ThriftyToolShed do you know any vander sells on Amazon, Link it for me please.
sometimes they use this white thing on electronic circuit board to hold wires like a cable tie. If you know any vander sell on Amazon.
This may be similar? I have not used it to say for sure though!
www.amazon.com/dp/B0063U2RHK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_fabc_QZYGF6HNNZT4X0AMKPTD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
@@ThriftyToolShed thank you friend.
This guy is fluent in voltagespeak. I think I'll just buy a new one. 🤣
What type of torx screw? It has a pin in the middle.
That is a security screw. Most packs and even alot of tools have the security screws in them. You need the security torx bit.
Thanks.
How could you have known those 2 batteries where bad, when there are 4 batteries connected?
This is a much older video, but I Believe I do share how to test voltage from the outside on these DeWalts. I show that in some videos. It does not work the same for FlexVolt unfortunately. It does help locate the cells that are unbalanced. You still have 2 in parallel in the 2P packs of course. Sometimes you can balance the cells and the pack will work again for a little while and it will give issues again. Usually a cell or more than one has become a lower capacity. The best test is individually capacity testing each cell as I do take time to show on my channel.
I Have A Ryobi Battery With Test Light
Issues The Light Works When I
Throw It On The Charger But It
Dont Work When I Push The Yellow
Test Button. So It's Probly The
Button It's Self Huh?
Sounds very likely.
B+= positive B-= negative ?
Correct
nice!
Can I replace batteries and put a Duracell
No!
I have a Question, do all dewalt 20V has a low voltage protection circuit? anyone answer will be greatly appreciated, thanks
Well the pack monitors and the tool will shut down based on the pack. The pack does not cut the power to the battery terminals. So care must be taken so not to discharge the pack too low if used out of the tool!
@@ThriftyToolShed Thank you for your quick reply, I understood now.
Hi Friend, I am trickle charging my car battery through Dewalt 20V using LM2596 and it's working really good and have been using it for about an year from now. Now my question is I want to protect my Dewalt Battery from going too low on Voltage and I tried using XH-M609 and LM2596 together but it didn't work. Now what do you suggest me to buy which might help. I appreciate any help please.
I do have a video that I show a low voltage cut out module that may be helpful. The video is about Low voltage cut out for my ego battery packs but the cut out controller works from 10-60v I believe.
This is a link for a 30A module and a smaller 20A module that work great for the money. I have a video on the 20A board as well but I have not edited it yet, hopefully will have it up soon. Here are the links to the boards...
eBay Link to 10-60VDC 30A Low voltage Cut-out Panel (the one I used)
ebay.us/jN8bXN
eBay Link to Aiyima 6-60VDC 20A Low voltage Cut-out Board
ebay.us/rHNgBY
@@ThriftyToolShed But with these 2 modules you mention the Dewalt 20V battery gets discharge completely to 000 and battery gets destroyed. Can you read my question again please.
Merhaba süre 7:41 devre soğukken makine çalışmıyor sıcak ortamda çalıştırıyor sebep ne olabilir teşekkür ederim
Possible a NTC thermistor issue. Typically around 10K ohms at room temp.
The balancing is dies via the charger.
C= cell cluster ?
Most likely. Cell or Cell group when in a cluster like 2P....or even 3P?
Thrifty Tool Shed rephrase that plz
Are you asking about the 2P and 3P?
Just typical battery meaning for 2 cells in parallel in pack or 3P for 3 cells in parallel. So I was mentioning that for your cluster comment. So a 2ah pack for example is usually just 5S or (5) 4 volt cells in series giving you an output of 20V. If a higher capacity pack such as a 4ah pack is 2P so each of the 5S series cells also has a parallel cell making it a 2P 5S. Even higher capacity pack may be a 6ah and 3P so it has 3 parallel. hope that makes sense.
Thrifty Tool Shed oh I get it thanks
If I sent you batteries do you repair them
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in an Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have found with a repair as we learn together. I don't have alot of time left. I hope you can find someone you know that likes to tinker and hopefully after watching the video can help you out. I wish you the best of luck with yours.