I want to know everything! I'm a little obsessed with exactly this subject. Strange coincidence, but I'm all about it. I got a lot of ideas for a rolling mill.
Hi Tyrell, it is my birthday today. I’m 16 and I wanted to let you know that you are the reason I started making knives. Thank you for making these videos they really help.
Got the press from David. Thing is built like a tank and just awesome. He is just great to deal with and runs a solid side business with these rolling mills. Thank you so much again for the recommendations.
Love the Machine..!! I understand the principles as i ran a " Cold Rolling Mill " for specialised Steel Strip from 1976 to 1981...!! Congrats & enjoy..!! Thanks a Mil' for placing this Video
Love your Machine..used the same principal when i ran a Cold Steel Strip Rolling Mill Company for the Pressings Industry, from 1976- 1981...!! Congrats..it's a Winner...!!
Denis ... nice addition to your shop. I used to manufacture conveyor equipment and used roll set and torch, along with hydraulic bender, to forge-form frames, turns, and guards for all sorts of equipment. Enjoy.
I was lucky enough to get one of David’s first roller mill builds. I use it on almost every project I do. Love your idea with the string. Btw I have done San mai with only the roller mill. So it is possible. I did a video just to see if it was possible.
Rolling mills are how the Japanese companies make san mai. I was hoping with the proliferation of these cheap rolling mills, makers would be able to keep the soft cladding steel out of the cutting edge, but as long as knife collectors don’t catch on, makers have to reason to improve, so they haven’t and they won’t.
Bill I’m not really following your logic. If you’re seeing makers with sanmai issues, they should fix that, regardless of having a rolling mill or not. What do you mean about knife collectors “catching on”?
@@TyrellKnifeworks I hadn't thought of that aspect, thats really cool especially where damascus is concerned. I've seen people having to grind away a lot of precious steel. Steel is not expensive but time and resources certainly are in this sense. It will be interesting to see how much difference it makes..perhaps weighing a billet and see what difference there is.
@@TyrellKnifeworks yup makes good sense a quick clean up then cut and stack it is way better than grinding flat first or worse needing to mill it flat.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Josh Smith uses his to take off cuts and stretches them out to make folder blades. I thought that was a good usage for a small piece that would normally be cast aside and forgotten.
I have the same rolling mill. It is great for drawing out stock without making it wider at the same time. Pays for itself pretty quick by reducing waste on damascus billets.
@@TyrellKnifeworks I don’t do Facebook so I can’t dig any deeper. I saw something for the Oklahoma blacksmiths association so I may try that. That’s the second place I’ve seen this thing listed as selling for $1800. Is that accurate because the only other guy selling of these wanted $4200 for his version. I don’t remember if his was also the “blue crusher “version of the McDonald Mill using a gearbox instead of the multiple drive chains.
That’s a handy tool to have. Can you please tell me what the gear reduction is and the hp and rpm of the motor. 2/4/6/8 pole? I assume it’s single phase. You’ll have a lot of fun using it !!
I think out of most of the ones I've seen, this is a great design in terms of the safety like you mentioned. You can probably still hurt yourself, but you'd have to be really trying :) Will be really good for san-mai
Excellent episode my man! Awesome buy right here👆🏽I still think it's great that you take the time to pass your know-how onto the next Gen of blade smiths 😉👍🏽
If you live in the US, there's a guy in Oklahoma that makes them. Send me an email at tyrellknifeworks at gmail and I'll give you his number (he doesn't do social media or email). Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks I don't live in the US otherwise I might have become friends with you. I actually make similar machines but larger commercial ones. 😁
I bought the plans for this, thinking I'm a decent welder. I learned really quickly that I have no idea how to read machinist plans. I'm thinking 1800$ sounds very reasonable.
Something that jumped out at me: figure out how many threads per inch on that big bolt to adjust your "squeeze". Then, you could figure out how many thou per 1/4 revolution on the turn handle. If you're keeping close track of things you could probably dial in thickness of your drawn stock to 1/64" and allow for cleanup. If you don't like math, then keep going by feel
Honestly when you’re doing it, thinking in 1/64 doesn’t make sense. You usually know your desired end thickness and that’s what you’re shooting for. I know where 1/8”, 3/16” and 1/4” is and that’s what matters. 👍
I would like to have one of these with the ability to change the rollers. With "crowned" barrel shaped rollers it can be used to widen stock. Another idea I had was, if you could time the rollers, you could have rollers machined to have the "negative" of a blade sculpted into them giving yourself the ability to drop forge blades. With two six inch diameter rollers, you could spit out two nine inch knife blanks per revolution.
Crowned rollers are not going to do what you want. If you want to widen stock, just send it through at an angle, then again at the reverse angle to remove the curve it will introduce. I don't think you'd have the accuracy you want for any kind of sculpting. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks i can't seem to get a straight answer about something : can you roll hot steel on a benchtop jewelry mill? this setup here doesn't seem all that much more rigid than a large benchtop jewelers mill (maybe im wrong though), and it would be so easy to be able to just get one of those. The guys on the bladesmith forums can't seem to make up their minds on whether it's possible.
@@bilbo_gamers6417 no way it would support coke rolling steel unless it was something like a 1/8” round bar. Anything like a flat bar would be a no go.
@@bilbo_gamers6417 sorry, I thought you asked about coke rolling for some reason. On a jewelry mill I suspect you’d be limited to 1/8” steel round stock. It wouldn’t have the force for anything like flat bar. My rolling mill is much beefier than a jewelry mill.
yeah ive been looking around for something liek this i think im going to have to build my own one, any idea why ppl using gear boxes on eclectic motor and not a worm drive/Archimedes screw like on windscreen wiper ext?
I would guess the gear box is cheaper and easier to find, but I’m not sure. It’s a great machine though. I use it on every Damascus project. Thanks for watching.
Possibly, but scale tends to fall off the billet and hit the ground and it would burn the mat. Instead I’ve taken a piece of foam with a sticky backing and put it on the underside of the pedal, problem solved! 👍. Thanks for watching
Woohoo! "Tool up or die" as MB Neils Van den Berg says.....enjoyed the video, I've seen these often used on other channels but no one ever rly showed how they work or their perks...quick question when will be see the dagger challenge winner, the challenge got me making my own dagger lol...I will probably have the nerve to join the next challenge...can't wait for the next video!
It’s going to be a very useful tool for sure! The dagger challenge winners will be announced on the Art of Craftsmanship podcast tomorrow as well as on a video that all the channels will post/share. Thanks for watching
Just watching you operate it, looks fairly cut and dry how its built, I could build one if I find a motor and gearbox, thinking maybe automobile window motor and gearbox might work, they're fairly strong. Got my fingers caught in an old washer ringer system as a kid, glad that spits out the steel towards the user, crushed fingers aren't as fun as they sound.
Hi, is faster than a hidraulic press to reduce thickness in billets?? For example, if you set the weld in the hidraulic press first and then use the rolling to reduce thickness it would be faster than using only the press?
It says: CALM63-60/1-56C-1.00. I hope that helps. You can buy the plans for this milling machine for $25. Google Hugh McDonald Milling Machine plans and you’ll probably find it.
Bom dia Tyrell! Assisto seu trabalho pelo youtube, sempre que sobra um tempo. Fique interessado nessa máquina e aqui faço uma pergunta: É possível o caldeamento para peças san mai, utilizando esse sistema de prensagem? Grato. Aprendiz de cuteleiro, 66 anos, morador de Minas Gerais - Brasil.
Não tenho certeza se entendi sua pergunta. Pode ter sido confundido na tradução. Isso certamente pode ajudar você a forjar um san-mai. Eu uso isso em todos os meus constructios em camadas, damasco, tudo. Obrigado por assistir!
do you know the size of the reduction gearbox? i have the plans to build one but it uses gears/pulleys rather then a reduction box which seems a much smarter way to go about it
I would seriously suggest you use a gear reducer. They are cheap and WAY easier to build than a pulley system. I don’t have the reduction on hand but you can buy the plans for these. Just Google Hugh McDonald Rolling Mill. Thanks for watching
@@TyrellKnifeworks there the plans i got, but there the original design with pulleys and gears hence why i was asking about the size of the reduction gear box. seems to be alot of choice on the Internet 😅
Wow that is a super simple machine. Any idea how much power and rpm the motor is rated for. Hopefully it will take some time off with the surface grinder.
Just a question if you don't mind : would you recommend using a 4 mm steel plate for a blade that would be beveled on both sides ? (not sure if "bevel" is the right english word). Cause I tried to do that kind of bevel on 2 mm steel and failed completely (I'm trying to do my first knife), so I assume 2 mm is to thin for that kind of bevel, at least for a beginner, don't you think ? Maybe I should make a first attempt with an ugly but simpler one-sided bevel ? Thanks.
A guy in Oklahoma builds these for sale. If you want his number, email me at tyrellknifeworks at gmail. He doesn’t do social media. Thanks for watching.
Once you get good at it and you keep it at the right angle, bowing is a minimum. You just take it to the press and give it some light presses with the flat dies and it’s perfect. 👍
It is possible to quench 5160 in canola. I’m not sure on other oils but if they have a similar viscosity they would probably work. 5160 is probably the most forgiving steel to heat treat.
Have you tried tapering by setting it a "bit too narrow" and stomping harder as you pull the billet? I know the original desing had that extra lever, but it supposedly wasn't all that intuitive,
@@TyrellKnifeworks Hugh McDonald and some other guy said you could do it with the full spec mill with that extra lever, but other folks said yeah but not all that well. Lol I guess I’ll just have to do the tapers on kitchen knife stock with a polished flat face hammer. Anything else I would just grind it in, but I’m looking to play around with some laminated steel with a Damascus jacket and a W-2 Cru Forge V core. Looking for an easy way to keep everything centered all the way out.
I love mine! Watch out for bevels they will make a banana when you run it through there. I've also found that you need to brush your steel a good bit, it will force forge scale down. It can cause you to miss your target thickness trying to grind it out
This is the Hugh McDonald rolling mill. If you google that, you should find the plans for it for purchase. If you just want to buy it, there's a guy in the US in Oklahoma that builds them which is where I got mine. If you want his number, drop me an email at tyrellknifeworks at gmail. Thanks for watching.
I do have one question; do you expect this to replace the surface grinding process? I would imagine you still might have to use a flatter if the stock bent in this, but if this effectively replaces a surface grinder my eyes have been opened. Thanks!
No, it won’t replace a surface grinder but it certainly will lessen its use. I se my press to straighten the billets out of the mill but after that they are u inform and very flat! This will be great for restacking Damascus!
@@TyrellKnifeworks Thats what I'm trying to work out as I'm in Australia. If the gearbox is 60:1 and motor 1800RPM it would give you 30RPM at the Roller. Does your motor have the RPM on it?
@@83144600 Note, if you google Hugh McDonald rolling mill plans, you can probably find the original plans you can purchase for about $25. Hugh is actually from Australia as well.
They are made from a guy in Oklahoma, David Barfield. He doesn’t do social media or email so email me at tyrellknifeworks at gmail and I’ll give you his number. Thanks for watching
I'm not sure what you're referring to. If you don't get the billet perfectly flat in the rollers, you can introduce a curve, but that's easily removable. Thanks for watching.
A painted knob doesn’t tell you how many turns have occurred. Only where the center point is. I think the string will work out if I just put a weight on it. I’ll play with it. Thanks for watching.
Looking at your Amazon tool list, I see the parts list for the forge press…how many tons does that produce? And what piston/ram did you use? Thanks brotha! 🔪❤️🇺🇸
Answering the question on how to make it easier to roll them out without them catching i would make 2 concave notches on either side of the flat end of the billet right in front of the rebar, make them deep enough so the thickness in the notches is less than the desired thickness off the finished billet. Or maybe round stock with a tapered front end made on the lathe. Hope this helps.
Just taking it down to the thickness of the rebar is the easiest way. That way I don't have to do any other manipulation on the billet first. Thanks for watching.
For 2.5 times as much money as a press and one of these if the price stated is correct. YOu cant get a normal knifemaker size press to get stock that thin without half of it ending up as scale on the floor. This machine and a coal Iron 16 ton press with a bucket full of dies would be not much different in price than a 34 pound Anyang hammer.
@@TyrellKnifeworks or, best case scenario, we can’t use anything bigger than a 25 pound little giant or a 33/34 pound Anyang because of noise issues. Some folks say that little Anyang may be the best blade forging hammer that you can get for the money. But it’s not only still a lot of money, like over $7000, but it’s not really suitable for doing the 3 inch tall by 1 1/2 inch wide by 6 inch long Damascus bullets that I have typically Forge welded in the past.
Not sure you would be interested. Could you make a Chef's knife with the barest of tools. I would like to buy a strip of metal and make it in ti a knife. I have no tools. Want to make something to see if I like metal working. A video which metal to buy, cut out shape, heat treat, make wooden handle.
This is really amazing tool and I'm thrilled to have it! Any questions you have about it?
I want to know everything! I'm a little obsessed with exactly this subject. Strange coincidence, but I'm all about it. I got a lot of ideas for a rolling mill.
@@astormofwrenches5555 you can buy the plans for this rolling mill and make it yourself if you do choose.
Lol, I'm still trying to fight through the HouseMade grinder build. I'm in over my head on that already.
what is the diameter on the rols?
@@yair6093 I think they are 2"
Hi Tyrell, it is my birthday today. I’m 16 and I wanted to let you know that you are the reason I started making knives. Thank you for making these videos they really help.
Happy birthday, Colton! That’s great to hear that my videos inspired you to start. Send me some pics for Viewer Knives to tyrellknifeworks at gmail! 👍
@@TyrellKnifeworks Thank you! I will definitely send you some.
Got the press from David. Thing is built like a tank and just awesome. He is just great to deal with and runs a solid side business with these rolling mills. Thank you so much again for the recommendations.
I’m glad it worked out and you’re happy with it! 👍. Thanks for watching
I have been wanting one of these for a long time. I am glad to see more people making them, and seeing them become more mainstream.
Super useful tool indeed! Thanks for watching.
Love the Machine..!! I understand the principles as i ran a " Cold Rolling Mill " for specialised Steel Strip from 1976 to 1981...!!
Congrats & enjoy..!!
Thanks a Mil' for placing this Video
Love your Machine..used the same principal when i ran a Cold Steel Strip Rolling Mill Company for the Pressings Industry, from 1976- 1981...!!
Congrats..it's a Winner...!!
It's a super useful machine! I use it all the time. 👍🏻
Very cool! Rolling mills are a wonderful addition to the shop. We couldn't live without ours!
The way you guys crank out billets, I'm surprised you don't have a few of these in the shop! I see your stuff everywhere these days! Nice work!
That’s a very cool and compact version!
I bet it makes a big difference 👍🏻
I feel like I’m going to do a loss less grinding now. Restacking Damascus should be a breeze. 👍
Looks like a great piece of equipment. I can definitely see how it can make a major difference. Thanks for sharing!
It’ll mean grinding less and saving more steel. Particularly on Damascus restacks and thinning the final billet. 👍
That things is cool. Way more compact then I thought it would be.
Thanks brother! It’s going to be super useful
Congratulations on getting one. I've been wanting to build myself one for years now. Have fun with it.
It's going to be part of my normal process for sure now. Thanks for watching.
Denis ... nice addition to your shop. I used to manufacture conveyor equipment and used roll set and torch, along with hydraulic bender, to forge-form frames, turns, and guards for all sorts of equipment. Enjoy.
It’s a fun tool to have for sure! Doing restacks of Damascus and thinning stock will be a breeze now. I’ll grind less and save more steel. 👍
thanks for your videos, the subtitles help a lot. Greetings from Brazil.
Thanks for watching!
I was lucky enough to get one of David’s first roller mill builds. I use it on almost every project I do. Love your idea with the string. Btw I have done San mai with only the roller mill. So it is possible. I did a video just to see if it was possible.
Yeah, I'm quite sure I'll be using it a ton! Thanks for watching, Jay!
Rolling mills are how the Japanese companies make san mai. I was hoping with the proliferation of these cheap rolling mills, makers would be able to keep the soft cladding steel out of the cutting edge, but as long as knife collectors don’t catch on, makers have to reason to improve, so they haven’t and they won’t.
Bill I’m not really following your logic. If you’re seeing makers with sanmai issues, they should fix that, regardless of having a rolling mill or not. What do you mean about knife collectors “catching on”?
Very nice Denis ....showing off just a little a bit lol ...Honestly looks like a really useful piece of kit, I can see why you wanted one so much now.
It’s going to be sooo nice for rolling out billets. I feel like I’m going to grind less and save more steel. 👍
@@TyrellKnifeworks I hadn't thought of that aspect, thats really cool especially where damascus is concerned. I've seen people having to grind away a lot of precious steel. Steel is not expensive but time and resources certainly are in this sense. It will be interesting to see how much difference it makes..perhaps weighing a billet and see what difference there is.
@@TalRohan I think just time at the grinder is the biggest factor.
@@TyrellKnifeworks yup makes good sense a quick clean up then cut and stack it is way better than grinding flat first or worse needing to mill it flat.
This is pretty damn cool!
Thanks for taking a look, James! I'm sure this one will become part of my regular tool rotation on each build. 👍🏻
That rolling mill is nice. Works great for stretching out end cuts to give them a use. I cant wait until i can afford to get one for my shop.
It’s going to be super useful! Less grinding! 👍
@@TyrellKnifeworks Josh Smith uses his to take off cuts and stretches them out to make folder blades. I thought that was a good usage for a small piece that would normally be cast aside and forgotten.
@@JPsBladeworks I'm gonna save so many little pieces now and stretch them out or sure!
@@TyrellKnifeworks i have a bucket full of off cuts from my builds just waiting for the day i get a rolling mill to give them new life
@@TyrellKnifeworks I love your work where can I buy one of those roller mills?
Absolutely LOVE this!! Have mini mill next up on forge tools but man oh man this would be a game changer in getting leaf spring steel ready
Nothing beats a rolling mill for thinning out stock! Thanks for watching.
I have the same rolling mill. It is great for drawing out stock without making it wider at the same time. Pays for itself pretty quick by reducing waste on damascus billets.
Where did you buy it?
@@joem1256 same place Denis did. From David Barfield in Oklahoma.
Having trouble finding him.
Check the FB page and contact them there. I think that's David's relative or something.
@@TyrellKnifeworks I don’t do Facebook so I can’t dig any deeper. I saw something for the Oklahoma blacksmiths association so I may try that. That’s the second place I’ve seen this thing listed as selling for $1800. Is that accurate because the only other guy selling of these wanted $4200 for his version. I don’t remember if his was also the “blue crusher “version of the McDonald Mill using a gearbox instead of the multiple drive chains.
Wow, now that's fancy!!
It’s a fun too to have in the shop! 👍
Nice shop upgrade!!! I have been used for a couple years now, You can forge weld on, important don't try to crush a lot on the two first heats
I've had mine for about 6 months. It's a great tool for sure! Thanks for watching, Roberto!
Very useful 👍🏻tool. Best of luck🍀 with it. May you make a thousand, thousand knives with it.🍀🇺🇸🇺🇸
I'm sure this one will be used on pretty much every forging project from now on. 👍🏻
Very cool machine. Never heard of it before you mentioned it on the podcast.
It’s going to be great for Damascus restacks and drawing out billets. 👍
That’s awesome! Seems very useful, looking forward to what you make with it.
I'll be using it on pretty much every damascus build from now on I think! Thanks for watching, Drew!
Cool tool, thanks for the review video.
Thanks for watching!
Love your Triple T videos mate - cheers
Thanks for watching, John!
That’s a handy tool to have.
Can you please tell me what the gear reduction is and the hp and rpm of the motor. 2/4/6/8 pole?
I assume it’s single phase.
You’ll have a lot of fun using it !!
I think out of most of the ones I've seen, this is a great design in terms of the safety like you mentioned. You can probably still hurt yourself, but you'd have to be really trying :)
Will be really good for san-mai
Yes, will be amazing for any layered construction! Just restacking Damascus will be nice, less grinding. 😮
Excellent episode my man! Awesome buy right here👆🏽I still think it's great that you take the time to pass your know-how onto the next Gen of blade smiths 😉👍🏽
Thanks, brother! This tool will become a great addition to the shop for sure!
@@TyrellKnifeworks for a time saver/more efficient means of getting builds done.......um hells yes!
You want one, then you get one. This is so cool.
If you live in the US, there's a guy in Oklahoma that makes them. Send me an email at tyrellknifeworks at gmail and I'll give you his number (he doesn't do social media or email). Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks I don't live in the US otherwise I might have become friends with you. I actually make similar machines but larger commercial ones. 😁
I still love that video.
Thanks for watching, Michael!
pretty slick little machine!
It's going to be part of my regular rotation I'm sure!
I bought the plans for this, thinking I'm a decent welder. I learned really quickly that I have no idea how to read machinist plans. I'm thinking 1800$ sounds very reasonable.
Haha.. yeah I thought about making it then figured I don't have the time for that. Plus this way I know it works perfectly. 😜
Nice new tool! Seems like it has its quirks like any other tool, but it appears to be very useful!
It's extremely useful I think. I'll be putting into regular rotation. Thanks for watching, Isaac.
Looks like it would be a nice tool to have. I like that it is 110V.
It’s already proving to be extremely useful! I think it’ll be part of my regular process now. 👍
awesome new toy and for what it does - it's really affordable!
Thanks for checking it out, Daniel! It's become a regular rotation in my shop for sure!
Something that jumped out at me: figure out how many threads per inch on that big bolt to adjust your "squeeze". Then, you could figure out how many thou per 1/4 revolution on the turn handle.
If you're keeping close track of things you could probably dial in thickness of your drawn stock to 1/64" and allow for cleanup.
If you don't like math, then keep going by feel
Honestly when you’re doing it, thinking in 1/64 doesn’t make sense. You usually know your desired end thickness and that’s what you’re shooting for. I know where 1/8”, 3/16” and 1/4” is and that’s what matters. 👍
I would like to have one of these with the ability to change the rollers. With "crowned" barrel shaped rollers it can be used to widen stock. Another idea I had was, if you could time the rollers, you could have rollers machined to have the "negative" of a blade sculpted into them giving yourself the ability to drop forge blades. With two six inch diameter rollers, you could spit out two nine inch knife blanks per revolution.
Crowned rollers are not going to do what you want. If you want to widen stock, just send it through at an angle, then again at the reverse angle to remove the curve it will introduce. I don't think you'd have the accuracy you want for any kind of sculpting. Thanks for watching.
Right on! That’s awesome!
Thanks, Spencer! It’s going to be a lifesaver and anything that helps reduce grinding is a plus! 👍
seems like an insanely useful tool that most shops overlook.
Yeah, it’s definitely a luxury tool, but I’m thrilled to have it!
@@TyrellKnifeworks i can't seem to get a straight answer about something : can you roll hot steel on a benchtop jewelry mill? this setup here doesn't seem all that much more rigid than a large benchtop jewelers mill (maybe im wrong though), and it would be so easy to be able to just get one of those. The guys on the bladesmith forums can't seem to make up their minds on whether it's possible.
@@bilbo_gamers6417 no way it would support coke rolling steel unless it was something like a 1/8” round bar. Anything like a flat bar would be a no go.
@@TyrellKnifeworks what about hot rolling?
@@bilbo_gamers6417 sorry, I thought you asked about coke rolling for some reason. On a jewelry mill I suspect you’d be limited to 1/8” steel round stock. It wouldn’t have the force for anything like flat bar. My rolling mill is much beefier than a jewelry mill.
Not seeing the info re buying the mill. Can you help?
yeah ive been looking around for something liek this i think im going to have to build my own one, any idea why ppl using gear boxes on eclectic motor and not a worm drive/Archimedes screw like on windscreen wiper ext?
I would guess the gear box is cheaper and easier to find, but I’m not sure. It’s a great machine though. I use it on every Damascus project. Thanks for watching.
oooh New Toys!
This one is a really nice one to have! I’m excited to put it in rotation!
Could you put a small piece of rubber mat where the pedal hits the ground? May make it even quieter. Just a thought.
Possibly, but scale tends to fall off the billet and hit the ground and it would burn the mat. Instead I’ve taken a piece of foam with a sticky backing and put it on the underside of the pedal, problem solved! 👍. Thanks for watching
Woohoo! "Tool up or die" as MB Neils Van den Berg says.....enjoyed the video, I've seen these often used on other channels but no one ever rly showed how they work or their perks...quick question when will be see the dagger challenge winner, the challenge got me making my own dagger lol...I will probably have the nerve to join the next challenge...can't wait for the next video!
It’s going to be a very useful tool for sure! The dagger challenge winners will be announced on the Art of Craftsmanship podcast tomorrow as well as on a video that all the channels will post/share. Thanks for watching
Just watching you operate it, looks fairly cut and dry how its built, I could build one if I find a motor and gearbox, thinking maybe automobile window motor and gearbox might work, they're fairly strong. Got my fingers caught in an old washer ringer system as a kid, glad that spits out the steel towards the user, crushed fingers aren't as fun as they sound.
It’s a pretty solid design. I use it all the time. 👍
Hello. Well done! I would like to ask you about the power of the engine and the speed of the gearbox. Thank you very much!
It’s a 1hp motor with a 1:56 speed reducer. Thanks for watching
Thank you!
Hi, is faster than a hidraulic press to reduce thickness in billets??
For example, if you set the weld in the hidraulic press first and then use the rolling to reduce thickness it would be faster than using only the press?
The rolling mill is great at thin material which is exactly what the press is not good at. They do not replace each other. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks could you tell me how much it cost the machine?? aproximatelly
@@matiasshanahan5164 This one was about $1800 plus shipping.
@@TyrellKnifeworks and any caracteristic of machine you could tell me?? type of motor? diamater of rollings?
@@matiasshanahan5164 Best to google "Hugh MacDonald Rolling Mill plans". You can buy them online from the original maker.
Very cool tool! Can you list the model number of the gearbox?
It says: CALM63-60/1-56C-1.00. I hope that helps. You can buy the plans for this milling machine for $25. Google Hugh McDonald Milling Machine plans and you’ll probably find it.
Bom dia Tyrell! Assisto seu trabalho pelo youtube, sempre que sobra um tempo. Fique interessado nessa máquina e aqui faço uma pergunta: É possível o caldeamento para peças san mai, utilizando esse sistema de prensagem? Grato. Aprendiz de cuteleiro, 66 anos, morador de Minas Gerais - Brasil.
Não tenho certeza se entendi sua pergunta. Pode ter sido confundido na tradução. Isso certamente pode ajudar você a forjar um san-mai. Eu uso isso em todos os meus constructios em camadas, damasco, tudo. Obrigado por assistir!
Devices like this were used by the Weta Workshop in New Zealand to forge sword blades for the Lord Of The Rings movies.
I can certainly see how they would use one. Thanks for watching, Larry!
Very Cool Tool !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks, it will become a valuable part of my rotation!
Thanks for the video. Aaaand…. Damnit Denis…. More stuff I want but can’t have, haha.
Haha, sorry to put another tool on your wish list. 😜. Thanks for checking it out, Shaun.
do you know the size of the reduction gearbox? i have the plans to build one but it uses gears/pulleys rather then a reduction box which seems a much smarter way to go about it
I would seriously suggest you use a gear reducer. They are cheap and WAY easier to build than a pulley system. I don’t have the reduction on hand but you can buy the plans for these. Just Google Hugh McDonald Rolling Mill. Thanks for watching
@@TyrellKnifeworks there the plans i got, but there the original design with pulleys and gears hence why i was asking about the size of the reduction gear box. seems to be alot of choice on the Internet 😅
Hi, nice vid, can you tell me how much kw the motor has?
Thanks
It's not that big, it's probably a 1hp at most, if that. They key is the gear reducer. Thanks for watching.
That's pretty cool. 👍✌
Thanks for watching, Michael!
Awesome video
Thanks for checking it out!
Great video thanks.
Thanks for watching, David!
Hi, i this time build rollmill. What is the height of the lower roller from the ground? Thank you. Jan
I would suggest you look up the Hugh McDonald rolling mill and acquire the plans. It will help you more than a few measurements. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks thank you
That is slick!
Thanks, James! It will be a cool addition for sure.
I thought you where going to post the anouncement video for the dagger challenge the 29th of April
I’ll go up tomorrow morning.
@@TyrellKnifeworks awesome
Wow that is a super simple machine. Any idea how much power and rpm the motor is rated for. Hopefully it will take some time off with the surface grinder.
I'll have to check on the motor. I think it's probably a 1hp. Thanks for watching, Erik.
Just a question if you don't mind : would you recommend using a 4 mm steel plate for a blade that would be beveled on both sides ? (not sure if "bevel" is the right english word). Cause I tried to do that kind of bevel on 2 mm steel and failed completely (I'm trying to do my first knife), so I assume 2 mm is to thin for that kind of bevel, at least for a beginner, don't you think ? Maybe I should make a first attempt with an ugly but simpler one-sided bevel ? Thanks.
4mm would be fine. You'll just have to practice grinding bevels, that's what all beginners struggle with. Keep at it!
@@TyrellKnifeworks Thanks !
Oh that's so cool! I need one! 😫 lol
You definitely need one! 😜. It will become one of my new favorite tools I think.
Is there a link for the plans please?
I didn’t make this, it was purchased. If you want the guy’s phone number, email me at tyrellknifeworks at gmail. Thanks for watching, Jim.
Is this rolling mill commercially produced or is this one something someone built at home?
A guy in Oklahoma builds these for sale. If you want his number, email me at tyrellknifeworks at gmail. He doesn’t do social media. Thanks for watching.
very nice tool, how thin can you go with it
You can dial it down to zero, but realistically I would think 1/16 would be as thin as you’d want to go.
@@TyrellKnifeworks nice, so it is more than enough for all knife making applications
That's the coolest ever. I bet it makes it soooo flat. Is bowing an issue? Do you have to straighten much afterward?
Once you get good at it and you keep it at the right angle, bowing is a minimum. You just take it to the press and give it some light presses with the flat dies and it’s perfect. 👍
Can I quench 5160 in a refined soy oil or any other vegetable oil otherwise?
It is possible to quench 5160 in canola. I’m not sure on other oils but if they have a similar viscosity they would probably work. 5160 is probably the most forgiving steel to heat treat.
Have you tried tapering by setting it a "bit too narrow" and stomping harder as you pull the billet? I know the original desing had that extra lever, but it supposedly wasn't all that intuitive,
There isn't much travel on the foot pedal, probably about a 1/16". You wouldn't be able to control a taper. Thanks for watching, Joe.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Hugh McDonald and some other guy said you could do it with the full spec mill with that extra lever, but other folks said yeah but not all that well. Lol I guess I’ll just have to do the tapers on kitchen knife stock with a polished flat face hammer. Anything else I would just grind it in, but I’m looking to play around with some laminated steel with a Damascus jacket and a W-2 Cru Forge V core. Looking for an easy way to keep everything centered all the way out.
I love mine! Watch out for bevels they will make a banana when you run it through there. I've also found that you need to brush your steel a good bit, it will force forge scale down. It can cause you to miss your target thickness trying to grind it out
Good tip, thanks Derrick!
Do you have plans on this machine
This is the Hugh McDonald rolling mill. If you google that, you should find the plans for it for purchase. If you just want to buy it, there's a guy in the US in Oklahoma that builds them which is where I got mine. If you want his number, drop me an email at tyrellknifeworks at gmail. Thanks for watching.
I do have one question; do you expect this to replace the surface grinding process? I would imagine you still might have to use a flatter if the stock bent in this, but if this effectively replaces a surface grinder my eyes have been opened. Thanks!
No, it won’t replace a surface grinder but it certainly will lessen its use. I se my press to straighten the billets out of the mill but after that they are u inform and very flat! This will be great for restacking Damascus!
U could use a zip tie instead of string 👍
Yeah that would work. Thanks for watching
Just a thought, paint one of them instead of a string that can get caught or burn off.
But that doesn't tell you how much its been twisted, only where the center is. The string actually works well once it was weighted.
Looks like a pro to me
Thanks for checking it out, Keith!
That is bad ass dude
Thanks for checking it out, Matt!
Hi Whats the RPM of the motor and RPM of the Roller? Thankyou
There’s a gear reducer in it so you could do any rpm of the motor with the right reducer. I would guess the rpm of the roller is around 30ish.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Thats what I'm trying to work out as I'm in Australia. If the gearbox is 60:1 and motor 1800RPM it would give you 30RPM at the Roller.
Does your motor have the RPM on it?
@@83144600 I’m not in the shop right now
@@83144600 Note, if you google Hugh McDonald rolling mill plans, you can probably find the original plans you can purchase for about $25. Hugh is actually from Australia as well.
where did you buy the mill?
I mentioned in the video, it was purchased from David Barfield. There's a link to a FB page in the video description where you can get more info.
Where can I find one?
They are made from a guy in Oklahoma, David Barfield. He doesn’t do social media or email so email me at tyrellknifeworks at gmail and I’ll give you his number. Thanks for watching
Fantástico!!🖖
É uma máquina realmente ótima! Obrigado por assistir!
Where did you purchase it.
I mentioned in the video, it was purchased from David Barfield. There's a link to a FB page in the video description where you can get more info.
You think it would work with a hand rolling mill
It might work. You’d just need gears. It would be a lot of work though. Thanks for watching.
It's cool but it seems there's a kind of bending while pulling. 🙂
I'm not sure what you're referring to. If you don't get the billet perfectly flat in the rollers, you can introduce a curve, but that's easily removable. Thanks for watching.
Just paint one of the knob ears…the string is going to drive you nuts! Nice machine!
A painted knob doesn’t tell you how many turns have occurred. Only where the center point is. I think the string will work out if I just put a weight on it. I’ll play with it. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Now I see where you’re going with the string…misunderstood.
Looking at your Amazon tool list, I see the parts list for the forge press…how many tons does that produce? And what piston/ram did you use? Thanks brotha! 🔪❤️🇺🇸
If you watch my Triple-T #3, I do a full overview of my press. It's a 30 ton cylinder. Thanks for watching.
Answering the question on how to make it easier to roll them out without them catching i would make 2 concave notches on either side of the flat end of the billet right in front of the rebar, make them deep enough so the thickness in the notches is less than the desired thickness off the finished billet. Or maybe round stock with a tapered front end made on the lathe. Hope this helps.
Just taking it down to the thickness of the rebar is the easiest way. That way I don't have to do any other manipulation on the billet first. Thanks for watching.
I need that……
It's a wonderful tool! Btw, congrats on the challenge!! 👍🏻
@@TyrellKnifeworks Thank you and congratulations to you as well.
Able to make a sheet out of meteorite.
Yeah, it probably could. Thanks for watching.
40 threads per inch
I'm not really sure what your comment was about, but thanks for watching.
🦍
Sheesh
Thanks for watching!
Glad I never built one ,the press and power hammer makes lighter work of the steel than that
For 2.5 times as much money as a press and one of these if the price stated is correct. YOu cant get a normal knifemaker size press to get stock that thin without half of it ending up as scale on the floor. This machine and a coal Iron 16 ton press with a bucket full of dies would be not much different in price than a 34 pound Anyang hammer.
@@joem1256 100% agree
The issue is that many of us can't get a power hammer, it's just too much noise.
@@TyrellKnifeworks true that ….I live in the country and my shop is the equivalent of five track homes away from my house
@@TyrellKnifeworks or, best case scenario, we can’t use anything bigger than a 25 pound little giant or a 33/34 pound Anyang because of noise issues. Some folks say that little Anyang may be the best blade forging hammer that you can get for the money. But it’s not only still a lot of money, like over $7000, but it’s not really suitable for doing the 3 inch tall by 1 1/2 inch wide by 6 inch long Damascus bullets that I have typically Forge welded in the past.
Not sure you would be interested. Could you make a Chef's knife with the barest of tools. I would like to buy a strip of metal and make it in ti a knife. I have no tools. Want to make something to see if I like metal working. A video which metal to buy, cut out shape, heat treat, make wooden handle.
If you checkout my Beginner Series playlist, I did just that. Just hammer and anvil. Check that out. Thanks for watching.
@@TyrellKnifeworks Thanks, I thought I had watched all your videos. Guess not.