Thanks for watching and if you enjoyed the content, please LIKE and SHARE the video and please consider SUBSCRIBING to my channel th-cam.com/users/MountainFencingHomeGarden to see more similar content in the future. This would mean a lot to me and be greatly appreciated 😊
Cool video and some nice tips I wouldn't have thought about , although shame about leaving the damp proof membrane showing,. That kinda ruins it for me and removing it would have been the polish on this project, or just using a black material instead, to blend better with the soil.
@@JamesMontana I had old railway sleepers in my garden but now are bleeding the old creosote out, wish I'd gone for these oak ones! Plus they cut them with a chain saw so not decent joins like you say! Wish you were in Manchester 😄
Great video - going to be tackling this job in next few weeks. I need to get myself one of those circular saws. Also what bench are you using with that? Thanks!
I was told if softwpod sleepers are treated before use, they can last 20 to 30 years. Hope this helps. I have softwood gates and they recommend every couple of years to treat them. A friend has softwood sleepers and paints the outside of them with stain and protect, 16 years now and look as good as new. 😊
Nice step by step video. Can I ask, re the sleeper link in the description, what grade of sleepers did you use for this job? Good content!! Subscribed.
Did you use oak or a soft wood for the posts? As you staggered the sleepers, did you put a post at each joint, or how did you join the posts at the staggers?
Timber rots more quickly mainly due to water not being able to seep away. So is it really ideal to use bitumen paint on the base? If the base of the timber is constantly saturated with water then this could be a problem?
Great video, thank you, I now feel more confident tackling this project myself. Question, why didn’t you run the plastic right to the bottom of the sleepers and maybe slide it underneath the sleepers? Obvs not a criticism
I think it was because he used Bitumen on the bottom of the sleepers and they weren't placed directly onto the soil. The amount of liner he used will stop the damp soil from touching most of the sleeper.
Given this is not a fence and so not going to be getting wind etc, do I need a whole 20kg post mix bag per post, or you think half a bag will do given the weights and number of posts over all?
Not sure by flipping sleepers by 180 is going to give you an exact straight cut everytime. Better to just turn 90 each cut if possible to get a perfect cut.
Use brick/block instead of sleeper at back to save costs. It isn't visible when complete. Use black/dark DPM to line insides. Cut posts at angle to repel water. Don't staple DPM as any puncture will impede its function. Just tape prior to backfilling. DPM needs to lap onto top of sleeper or water will be trapped between sheet and timber. Don't have exposed groin hole in shorts...! 😂
One thing to keep in mind when using bitumen or other 'toxic' substances in gardens, is leaching. A disclaimer for DIYers would be advisable (in case I missed it), as the specific treatment of sleepers matters such as chemical treatments, and substances such as bitumen can leach and be consumed through ingestion of vegetables. Therefore in my opinion this garden is not suitable for growing foods.
Looks good but you have to use stainless fixings with oak really. The oak reacts to normal steel. I know the ones you used are coated so should be fine. Especially in a landscape environment I found out the hard way after spending £200 on bloody stainless screws
Yeah i know. Think i mentioned in the video. Plus i always recommend having your fixings on the inside. Keeps it all neat and tidy then. But the stainless steel screws you used are going to last alot longer 👍
Thanks for watching and if you enjoyed the content, please LIKE and SHARE the video and please consider SUBSCRIBING to my channel th-cam.com/users/MountainFencingHomeGarden to see more similar content in the future. This would mean a lot to me and be greatly appreciated 😊
Thanks for this mate, really useful. Best video I’ve seen on the topic 👍🏻
Thank you so much for putting this tutorial together; just what I've been looking for! 👍🏻
You're very welcome!
GREAT VIDEO THANK YOU .
Thank you for the details! Can I ask the depeth of post in ground?
Thankyou so much for the tutorial. Can I please asl how much postcrete you used per sleeper post?
Great stuff, like ALL of your videos, very thorough yet straight to the point. 👍
Great just what I am planning. The product list is super useful!
Good video and well done job. I liked the idea of using Pitumin for timber protection.
Thanks for the tutorial
Thanks james.
Excellent video this..going to be doing this shortly..will let you know how good your instructions were ,thanks v.much 👍🏻
Cool video and some nice tips I wouldn't have thought about , although shame about leaving the damp proof membrane showing,. That kinda ruins it for me and removing it would have been the polish on this project, or just using a black material instead, to blend better with the soil.
Looks great 👍🏽
Thanks mate 👍 Does add a little something to the garden and its great for growing veg and fruit in.
@@JamesMontana I had old railway sleepers in my garden but now are bleeding the old creosote out, wish I'd gone for these oak ones! Plus they cut them with a chain saw so not decent joins like you say! Wish you were in Manchester 😄
@@dannybardsley If you can re oil them or creasote if you can. They last forever ! Shame i cant help you out though. I like working with oak.
Great video - going to be tackling this job in next few weeks. I need to get myself one of those circular saws. Also what bench are you using with that? Thanks!
great video @JamesMontana. do you know how long a softwood sleepers last, i am thinking about the cost and planning to do DIY for my garden
I was told if softwpod sleepers are treated before use, they can last 20 to 30 years. Hope this helps. I have softwood gates and they recommend every couple of years to treat them. A friend has softwood sleepers and paints the outside of them with stain and protect, 16 years now and look as good as new. 😊
Good video
Thanks
Nice step by step video. Can I ask, re the sleeper link in the description, what grade of sleepers did you use for this job? Good content!! Subscribed.
Did you use oak or a soft wood for the posts? As you staggered the sleepers, did you put a post at each joint, or how did you join the posts at the staggers?
Timber rots more quickly mainly due to water not being able to seep away. So is it really ideal to use bitumen paint on the base? If the base of the timber is constantly saturated with water then this could be a problem?
Great video, thank you, I now feel more confident tackling this project myself. Question, why didn’t you run the plastic right to the bottom of the sleepers and maybe slide it underneath the sleepers? Obvs not a criticism
I think it was because he used Bitumen on the bottom of the sleepers and they weren't placed directly onto the soil. The amount of liner he used will stop the damp soil from touching most of the sleeper.
We have the same screws and they don’t go through the sleepers they just cause the drill to spin out
Given this is not a fence and so not going to be getting wind etc, do I need a whole 20kg post mix bag per post, or you think half a bag will do given the weights and number of posts over all?
What oil did you use on the final finish please mate?
Is there anything else then bitumen ,to protect wood touching the ground? I dont want to poison my food….
Use plastic sheeting underneath
Great video. Are the supporting posts oak too?
No, that's why they are heavily treated
@@MountainRugCleaning thanks. How many screws did you use per post. I’m wondering how many boxes of stainless screws I need to buy.
Just a couple each sleeper
What's the depth on these sleepers?
Where did you get the oak sleepers from?
I got them from The Fencing Centre. Great supplier in the south, and reasonable prices 👍
What thickness posts did you use?
They're 75x75s
Not sure by flipping sleepers by 180 is going to give you an exact straight cut everytime. Better to just turn 90 each cut if possible to get a perfect cut.
Had a spliff avee?
No unfortunately not lol
Use brick/block instead of sleeper at back to save costs. It isn't visible when complete.
Use black/dark DPM to line insides.
Cut posts at angle to repel water.
Don't staple DPM as any puncture will impede its function. Just tape prior to backfilling.
DPM needs to lap onto top of sleeper or water will be trapped between sheet and timber.
Don't have exposed groin hole in shorts...! 😂
One thing to keep in mind when using bitumen or other 'toxic' substances in gardens, is leaching. A disclaimer for DIYers would be advisable (in case I missed it), as the specific treatment of sleepers matters such as chemical treatments, and substances such as bitumen can leach and be consumed through ingestion of vegetables. Therefore in my opinion this garden is not suitable for growing foods.
How much would the materials for this roughly cost?
A 'kin fortune.😂
👍
🤗👍
Looks good but you have to use stainless fixings with oak really. The oak reacts to normal steel. I know the ones you used are coated so should be fine. Especially in a landscape environment
I found out the hard way after spending £200 on bloody stainless screws
Yeah i know. Think i mentioned in the video. Plus i always recommend having your fixings on the inside. Keeps it all neat and tidy then. But the stainless steel screws you used are going to last alot longer 👍
And yet the ugly plastic was still visible at the end?! 🤷🏻🤦🏻
Why spend all that money on oak, and then use white plastic!
To protect the oak. Most the plastic will be hidden
Keep the noise down little person
Why would you not just paint the inside of the sleepers in bitumen rather than using that awkward ugly white cover up?
Cheaper, Faster, Lasts longer
Fantastic. Info is just what I need. Cheers