Note that the prices in the catalogue are really just a starting point for negotiation, if you're spending a reasonable amount. A few years back, I went into one of their south coast stores and bought about five hundred quid's worth of stuff and they knocked off about sixty quid. Just a thought 😁. Of course, you should really try the Chandlery barge on the River Hamble at Bursledon, but it's several hundred miles away from you 😉
Force 4 Chandlery are certainly a force to be reckoned with! I love their colourful book of dreams! They do have everything but it is always worth shopping round for a bargain!
I’m so happy to see you guys haven’t lost your sense of humor! The job you both have taken on is enormous. Keep making the videos I love watching the progress you are making on the boat. Much love from across the pond. A fan in Kentucky!
Another priceless piece of footage for the archive. You guys approach this project with exactly the right attitude. One day you will sail alongside the Medusa and it will all have been worth it.
Your progress is a testament to the commitment you have made toward the restoration of the Sarinda. I look forward to future videos with much anticipation each week. Thanks for sharing your journey with us! God Bless!
Nice work Simon. Hey just a tip on Slip or Channel Lock Pliers. When using them ALWAYS move to the into the slip jaw, opposite of how you were doing it on time index 17:12. By moving into the jaw it wants to bite into the jaw while going the opposite it wants to slip out of the jaw. The same goes for Vise Grip pliers too. If I lived close I would come and help and paint, but I live in the States. Love the show, keep up the fine work guys! Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Looking good! In my area (New England) we have a strong bias against gate valves for through-hulls. We much prefer ball valves. They're quicker to open and close, longer lived, leak less, easier to service, and the failure modes are more benign.
I normally put some Sikaflex on and then tighten the nut until I know all bubbles are squeezed out, but there is still a thick layer of Sikaflex left between the surface and the washer. I then let it dry and tighten a lot the next day when it is dry. This let the Sikaflex creates a nice gasket that fits into all the little unevenness and creates a better seal. Not sure if it will work on wood, but it sure does work on fiberglass :-)
Hi Guys, I have got to hand it to you two + kids, This is a hell of a big restoration you have undertaken! I wish you all the luck in the world with it.
Hi guys.Mac from 🇨🇦 Canada.I live in Ontario in an area called Muskoka.As you investigate her history I thought I'd mention that there were wood war boats built here in a town called Gravenhurst.I think the contract was with Grevette boat Co.cheers...C.C.R real wood boat 🏴☠️ 🚢 😎
Thank you Gemma and Simon! Awsome to see the first new pieces of hardware being installed! Great job on the tools and a creative solution for your needs!
Hello. You should make a challenge coin with your logo. I think a lot of people would like add it to their collection, i would buy one to add to mine. As always great job and keep making awesome progress along with awesome videos for us!
From experience, scrape the hull down to the float line, caulk all the gaps in the planks, seal the surface, then prime the exposed hull with at least two coats. Painting should be your last while it's on the mud flats. That will be easier done after the boat get's taken out of the water. One thing that you need to do before removing any wood is to measure the distances and write them on the wall for reference. Another thing you might consider is finding four or five or more large planks 6-10 inches wide by 2-4", and at least the width of the boat in length. Tie ropes on each end long enough to reach the railings on deck. At the next high tide, when the boat is just clear of the mud, position the planks under the hull and tie them off. This will allow the hull to be somewhat out of the water and expose a greater surface for scraping. We found that this will give a stable platform for the vessel. The use of plugs has long been a necessity, but also squares of rubber that can be quickly pressed against the inner surfaces to stop a leak, with 4X4 timber to buttress the patches
I forgot to add. If you can get the props out of the water, inspect them. I suspect they have been changed out. The previous owners probably exchanged them for a 'sport' version. Since the boat has been sitting in the mud for quite a ling time, at least take some pictures to insure a matched set. If they are chipped, then plan on replacing. They can be pulled in the yard for a balance.
I've been binge watching your series and it's really interesting the only problem I have being from the U.S. is when you two get excited about something and talking fast and at the same time you kind of lose me with your accent but the more I watch the more accustomed I become to it and getting easier to understand. It's a learning process for me. On to the next episode. Thanks.
You don't want to leave paint chips in the estuary. Wait until you can put the boat on the hard before scraping and painting. You should be using a ball valve on that through hull. Gate valves collect crud in the gate slot which can interfere with operation of the valve.
Excellent progress! A word to the wise though (if I may be so bold) - gate valves shouldn’t really be used, especially below the waterline as they have a nasty habit of failing in an open or closed position. Marine grade ball valves are the way to go - they have the added benefit of visually indicating whether they’re open or closed from the handle position. Also, if those skin fittings are brass, please, please ensure they are DZR - if they’re not they won’t last very well in a salt water environment. Early signs of failure will be if you scrape the outside instead of revealing that traditional brass colour they’ll have a pink hue indicating that the zinc is leaching out of the copper. Good luck, you guys make a brilliant (& very entertaining) team!!
Look into a steam box long enough to handle the hull ribs that need replacing. Once steamed it’s relatively easy to drive them into place. Once fastened, depending upon the wood selected, they will stay formed. Really enjoy watching you guys work through the problems. Cheers!
Re the eyelets, bloody amazing! Got the clips on the right way around, got the minimum number of them for a 10mm rope, and even got them pretty close to the right spacing. Bravo Zulu
Way to go. I really enjoyed your last couple of videos. It was very interesting seeing the naval history ships and how they were built. Please keep up the great work and I am looking forward to viewing future episodes.
Your making great progress on the boat, you are definitely a great team! I am really enjoying your videos, and am impressed with the progress you have made, your doing everything the way you want to, and that's important! Wishing you luck and success from Reno Beach ohio, on the shores of Lake Erie!
I think someone may have mentioned this before but you should get fixed reference points where you can check for any movement. Don't forget that the hull will probably stretch and compress with the rise and fall of the tide. I have said this before but you should really speak to one of the Marina's and see if they will sponsor a hard for you to put Sarina on. In the long run it will be cheaper and much better for you as you won't have to rely on the tides as to when you can work on your boat. Rubbish removal will be easier and if you need any material you won't have to pull it down the river all the time. I realise it may cost you a little more but I think that over time it will actually work out cheaper. Looking forward to see your progress with the frames - you will need a steamer though as bending oak is not any easy process - I know I have done it.
Bilge pumps! So I laughed out loud when Gemma was looking through the catalog describing how good it was and all of the sudden she stops and exclaimed bilge pumps! I love y’all’s passion.
Sarinda is going to be a fine looking ship when you guys complete her restoration , you're doing an awesome job. Be well ... keep smiling .... Later Later.
Hi,Gemma If I didn't live an ocean away I would loooove to help.I'm a DIYer .I hope u get the help u need.Ur a hardworking,funny couple and I love that about the 2 of u.
You did good. Now, get back to work. ;) What a crew you have, first aid trained and all. Have a good weekend you guys. Oh yeah forgot, Loved the Medusa video, Simon didn't hit anything, and you all lived. YAYYYY!!!!!
You could paint the hull unconventionally by working in manageable bits, for example in 5' x 5' or 5' x 10' areas, whatever you can reasonably prep and paint in the time available.
Copper nailing code works well. Assuming the nail is already in. Person inside puts Rove onto nail and taps gently so person outside knows to hold on. Bang rove down until it just bites into wood. Noise stops and outside see nail head pull into wood hopefully just below surface and rests. Inside snips nail leaving about eighth. Nips hard up on rove about right . Inside gently taps so outside holds on then inside hammers away with double tap when finished. Done.
Just a thing normally you let the sika go off some then tighten as this doesn't push all the dealer out I know you have tide to worry about but something to keep in mind
@@michaelramstedt3380 never had an issue with ball valves leaking, and yes they do seize but so do gate valves and I can generally free a ball valve fairly quickly.
Love watching you all fixing up your boat, i so want to see you sail away in it, . Coming from yorkshire, boats and I don't mix to well, i go green then white n sick, your both stars
How exciting for you!! Amazing!!! Both my husband and myself are finding it extremely interesting.. Love you guys, Simon is such a wag..❤️⛴ Lyn Kiama, South Coast NSW, Australia
When installing permanent pipework in new tunnels we would always install a blank to cover an open end, regardless of if there's a valve or not. This was to prevent dust etc entering the valve end, make it difficult for poor minded persons to stuff rubbish in or open a valve even though the handle had been removed to a safe place. Good to see some permanent work being done and something to check off the long list, a journey starts with the first step.
Wish we could come be a part of the hull painting brigade, but we are over in Canada. We love watching your process, though, and all of your clever innovations.
Congratulations on WGN Chicago picking up your story! It's a HUGE accomplishment. WGN is seen all over North America and I even receive the channel on cable here in Vancouver, Canada ... some 3,500 km away. Remember the topic of the channel is what initially hooks the viewer but it is the people who produce the channel that keep the viewer coming back. Cheers Guys.
this was quite possibly the funniest video yet....ship looks great guys,,, wish i was closer i would love to help with the rebuild cant wait to see what its like next year
Another great company for chandlery parts are Vetus. Your 'windows' are portlights/potholes. Well done on changing your skin but i thought i was watching the wrong video with the "a bit faster love, pulled out and deeper, there you go, oh yeah" !!! 🤣🤣🤣
You might well consider a "surface preparation tool" available from eastwood.com here, and probably many other sources. It uses a grinder type setup, but has a fairly wide (around 15cm) rotary tool with flap wheel design and others also depending on the job. The best and most economical tool I've found for removing paint from surfaces like auto bodies. Should work wonders on the hull, strip it down to bare wood and no chemicals required.
Removing and replacing one frame at a time shouldn’t be too much of a concern with regard to the hull changing shape. The double planked hull will hold its shape pretty well for a reasonable length of time. Be careful when selecting valves and other fittings for through hulls (skin fittings). Only use bronze or non metallic fittings. Never use brass! Brass will quickly corrode as the copper is dissolved leaving only zinc, which has no strength.
Use the catalogue to check prices against E-Bay to save yourself money. Buy your bowls at the pound shop, ASDA or a similar shop to save even more money. Check out Lidl or Aldi for your tools. love the Vlog.
So enjoy your banter. You two are fine! Please hang in there, stay at it. We here in coastal bend of Tx. Love your videos and esp. your progress. Thank you
The hull will need to be calked before priming and painting, won’t it? Also faired, she’s been so neglected for so long. I think you’ll need to haul the boat and move to the dry to do this work.
Great fun ...had me laughing again especially the sanding of the through hull scene. Not sure if you're going to be steaming the frames. Peter Knowles from Travels with Geordie channel has set up a nice little I frame sized foam steamer box using a kettle or a wall steamer.his channel is great viewing if you haven't already seen it. He currently has his 1950s wooden boat out on the hard and is adding extra white oak and high density plastic frames to strengthen his boat at a weak point.
Another absolutely totally amazing Vlog the 4 of are always spot on!!! Simon your little gadget u came up with will probably be forsake on Amazon very soon lol. Keep up the great work!!’nn
Gatevalves on a boat are not a good idea because there's no way to tell at a glance whether they're open or shut. The lever type valves are a much better indicator...and much quicker to open or shut.
Check out Force 4 Chandlery here - bit.ly/3cthnFH
And follow them on TH-cam-
th-cam.com/users/Force4Chandleryltd
Note that the prices in the catalogue are really just a starting point for negotiation, if you're spending a reasonable amount. A few years back, I went into one of their south coast stores and bought about five hundred quid's worth of stuff and they knocked off about sixty quid. Just a thought 😁. Of course, you should really try the Chandlery barge on the River Hamble at Bursledon, but it's several hundred miles away from you 😉
I just adore you guy's so very much!! Thanks for sharing your lives with us ✌🏻💗😊❣️
Simon has a great teaching technique; showing and asking questions.
Force 4 Chandlery are certainly a force to be reckoned with! I love their colourful book of dreams!
They do have everything but it is always worth shopping round for a bargain!
I’m so happy to see you guys haven’t lost your sense of humor! The job you both have taken on is enormous. Keep making the videos I love watching the progress you are making on the boat. Much love from across the pond. A fan in Kentucky!
Another priceless piece of footage for the archive. You guys approach this project with exactly the right attitude. One day you will sail alongside the Medusa and it will all have been worth it.
Thanks John xx
Your progress is a testament to the commitment you have made toward the restoration of the Sarinda. I look forward to future videos with much anticipation each week. Thanks for sharing your journey with us! God Bless!
Nice work Simon. Hey just a tip on Slip or Channel Lock Pliers. When using them ALWAYS move to the into the slip jaw, opposite of how you were doing it on time index 17:12. By moving into the jaw it wants to bite into the jaw while going the opposite it wants to slip out of the jaw. The same goes for Vise Grip pliers too. If I lived close I would come and help and paint, but I live in the States. Love the show, keep up the fine work guys! Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Mark of a true craftsman there.. proper tool doesn't exist or is cost-prohibitive... LOOK WHAT I MADE THAT WORKS!
Congratulations on the first permanent fix to your ship! Great work.
Looking good! In my area (New England) we have a strong bias against gate valves for through-hulls. We much prefer ball valves. They're quicker to open and close, longer lived, leak less, easier to service, and the failure modes are more benign.
First time I've ever seen gate valves used for a through hull. I've only ever seen ball valves in nz
I normally put some Sikaflex on and then tighten the nut until I know all bubbles are squeezed out, but there is still a thick layer of Sikaflex left between the surface and the washer. I then let it dry and tighten a lot the next day when it is dry. This let the Sikaflex creates a nice gasket that fits into all the little unevenness and creates a better seal. Not sure if it will work on wood, but it sure does work on fiberglass :-)
Hi Guys, I have got to hand it to you two + kids, This is a hell of a big restoration you have undertaken! I wish you all the luck in the world with it.
In America. From one ex- sailor to you. I love what your doing. Love your videos.
Hi guys.Mac from 🇨🇦 Canada.I live in Ontario in an area called Muskoka.As you investigate her history I thought I'd mention that there were wood war boats built here in a town called Gravenhurst.I think the contract was with Grevette boat Co.cheers...C.C.R real wood boat 🏴☠️ 🚢 😎
well done guys your doing a great job wish you all the best in your hard work
Thank you Gemma and Simon! Awsome to see the first new pieces of hardware being installed! Great job on the tools and a creative solution for your needs!
Been using force4 for years, think most boat owners know of them, excellent customer support too
You can tell when life is good. When one gets excited over bilge pumps that pretty much tells the old story.
Agreed mate lol
Hello. You should make a challenge coin with your logo. I think a lot of people would like add it to their collection, i would buy one to add to mine. As always great job and keep making awesome progress along with awesome videos for us!
"It's got a picture of a boat on it. It must be right." My entire sailboat restoration career summed up perfectly.
From experience, scrape the hull down to the float line, caulk all the gaps in the planks, seal the surface, then prime the exposed hull with at least two coats. Painting should be your last while it's on the mud flats. That will be easier done after the boat get's taken out of the water. One thing that you need to do before removing any wood is to measure the distances and write them on the wall for reference. Another thing you might consider is finding four or five or more large planks 6-10 inches wide by 2-4", and at least the width of the boat in length. Tie ropes on each end long enough to reach the railings on deck. At the next high tide, when the boat is just clear of the mud, position the planks under the hull and tie them off. This will allow the hull to be somewhat out of the water and expose a greater surface for scraping. We found that this will give a stable platform for the vessel. The use of plugs has long been a necessity, but also squares of rubber that can be quickly pressed against the inner surfaces to stop a leak, with 4X4 timber to buttress the patches
I forgot to add. If you can get the props out of the water, inspect them. I suspect they have been changed out. The previous owners probably exchanged them for a 'sport' version. Since the boat has been sitting in the mud for quite a ling time, at least take some pictures to insure a matched set. If they are chipped, then plan on replacing. They can be pulled in the yard for a balance.
I've been binge watching your series and it's really interesting the only problem I have being from the U.S. is when you two get excited about something and talking fast and at the same time you kind of lose me with your accent but the more I watch the more accustomed I become to it and getting easier to understand. It's a learning process for me. On to the next episode. Thanks.
You don't want to leave paint chips in the estuary. Wait until you can put the boat on the hard before scraping and painting. You should be using a ball valve on that through hull. Gate valves collect crud in the gate slot which can interfere with operation of the valve.
we are really getting to know your boat inch by inch through your videos keep them coming well done
Excellent progress! A word to the wise though (if I may be so bold) - gate valves shouldn’t really be used, especially below the waterline as they have a nasty habit of failing in an open or closed position. Marine grade ball valves are the way to go - they have the added benefit of visually indicating whether they’re open or closed from the handle position. Also, if those skin fittings are brass, please, please ensure they are DZR - if they’re not they won’t last very well in a salt water environment. Early signs of failure will be if you scrape the outside instead of revealing that traditional brass colour they’ll have a pink hue indicating that the zinc is leaching out of the copper.
Good luck, you guys make a brilliant (& very entertaining) team!!
What he says, my in laws boat nearly sank cos the Brass Valves disintegrated and snapped off.
Ahh Emilia is a good little nurse 😊😊😊
I like the idea of replacing the one that is doing the least good first. I did not see that reason coming.
Valves only last 5to 10 max years normally there not made to last plus in Australia insurance companies require you to change them on a regular basis
Look into a steam box long enough to handle the hull ribs that need replacing.
Once steamed it’s relatively easy to drive them into place. Once fastened, depending upon the wood selected, they will stay formed.
Really enjoy watching you guys work through the problems.
Cheers!
As always nice to see your vids. Small progress are also progress, keep it up
Re the eyelets, bloody amazing!
Got the clips on the right way around, got the minimum number of them for a 10mm rope, and even got them pretty close to the right spacing.
Bravo Zulu
The Viktron system looks really good
This helped me take apart some commercial Air-conditioning three port valves. Thanks!!
Way to go. I really enjoyed your last couple of videos. It was very interesting seeing the naval history ships and how they were built. Please keep up the great work and I am looking forward to viewing future episodes.
Your making great progress on the boat, you are definitely a great team! I am really enjoying your videos, and am impressed with the progress you have made, your doing everything the way you want to, and that's important! Wishing you luck and success from Reno Beach ohio, on the shores of Lake Erie!
I think someone may have mentioned this before but you should get fixed reference points where you can check for any movement. Don't forget that the hull will probably stretch and compress with the rise and fall of the tide.
I have said this before but you should really speak to one of the Marina's and see if they will sponsor a hard for you to put Sarina on. In the long run it will be cheaper and much better for you as you won't have to rely on the tides as to when you can work on your boat. Rubbish removal will be easier and if you need any material you won't have to pull it down the river all the time.
I realise it may cost you a little more but I think that over time it will actually work out cheaper.
Looking forward to see your progress with the frames - you will need a steamer though as bending oak is not any easy process - I know I have done it.
Your valve played us some light jazz 😏
See you next week guys, great stuff as usual, lovely to watch ❤️👍xx
Thanks for the video. Glad your family is doing well. Warmest regards to All.
Bilge pumps! So I laughed out loud when Gemma was looking through the catalog describing how good it was and all of the sudden she stops and exclaimed bilge pumps! I love y’all’s passion.
'Oooh bilge pumps!' Would you have said that six months ago? 🤣
Sarinda is going to be a fine looking ship when you guys complete her restoration , you're doing an awesome job.
Be well ... keep smiling .... Later Later.
Thanks Art x
Simon Laugh is everything I Love it
Great progress, good prep work, look ⏩ to the board replacements. You guys rock.
Hi,Gemma If I didn't live an ocean away I would loooove to help.I'm a DIYer .I hope u get the help u need.Ur a hardworking,funny couple and I love that about the 2 of u.
What a great family... love you guys!
shot blasting will remove that paint back to bare wood in no time. Outside of course. Re curves for new timber frames may require steaming to shape.
DZR ball valves are best these days
Great video good to see things to back on the boat thank for sharing keep up the good work 👍
Very awesome milestone, congrats!
You did good. Now, get back to work. ;) What a crew you have, first aid trained and all. Have a good weekend you guys. Oh yeah forgot, Loved the Medusa video, Simon didn't hit anything, and you all lived. YAYYYY!!!!!
So exciting to see the first new permanent item!
You could paint the hull unconventionally by working in manageable bits, for example in 5' x 5' or 5' x 10' areas, whatever you can reasonably prep and paint in the time available.
Good job guys you will get there!cheers
Love the home made gadgets,awesome work.
Copper nailing code works well. Assuming the nail is already in. Person inside puts Rove onto nail and taps gently so person outside knows to hold on. Bang rove down until it just bites into wood. Noise stops and outside see nail head pull into wood hopefully just below surface and rests. Inside snips nail leaving about eighth. Nips hard up on rove about right . Inside gently taps so outside holds on then inside hammers away with double tap when finished. Done.
If I lived in the UK I would be there painting. How cool would that be. Look forward to seeing it on camera. Keep them coming.
Just a thing normally you let the sika go off some then tighten as this doesn't push all the dealer out I know you have tide to worry about but something to keep in mind
Why not use Ball Valves below the water line and not gate valves? Gate valves can break the stem and be open or will not close.
Definitely ball valves should be used!
Ball valves can leak after time or stick quicker than a gate valves leaver valves way to go.
Anybody on TH-cam replacing thru hull uses Ball Valves. I have never had an issue, just open and close every now and then. Gate Valves can jam.
@@michaelramstedt3380 never had an issue with ball valves leaking, and yes they do seize but so do gate valves and I can generally free a ball valve fairly quickly.
Love watching you all fixing up your boat, i so want to see you sail away in it, .
Coming from yorkshire, boats and I don't mix to well, i go green then white n sick, your both stars
Keep happy keep laughing keep those big smiles 🤗😎🙄😬☠️👨👩👧👦
How exciting for you!!
Amazing!!!
Both my husband and myself are finding it extremely interesting..
Love you guys, Simon is such a wag..❤️⛴
Lyn Kiama, South Coast NSW, Australia
When installing permanent pipework in new tunnels we would always install a blank to cover an open end, regardless of if there's a valve or not. This was to prevent dust etc entering the valve end, make it difficult for poor minded persons to stuff rubbish in or open a valve even though the handle had been removed to a safe place.
Good to see some permanent work being done and something to check off the long list, a journey starts with the first step.
Great work this week, keep going guys, a new mile stone..... Jack n Steve .. 🐶😎
Progress, excellent, thanks
Progress!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Wish we could come be a part of the hull painting brigade, but we are over in Canada. We love watching your process, though, and all of your clever innovations.
Is that all you've got?? TOO funny. Great Video. Keep'em coming. Thanks guys!
Congratulations on WGN Chicago picking up your story! It's a HUGE accomplishment. WGN is seen all over North America and I even receive the channel on cable here in Vancouver, Canada ... some 3,500 km away. Remember the topic of the channel is what initially hooks the viewer but it is the people who produce the channel that keep the viewer coming back. Cheers Guys.
Brill video, great progress being made
this was quite possibly the funniest video yet....ship looks great guys,,, wish i was closer i would love to help with the rebuild cant wait to see what its like next year
Progress !
next task
Another great company for chandlery parts are Vetus. Your 'windows' are portlights/potholes. Well done on changing your skin but i thought i was watching the wrong video with the "a bit faster love, pulled out and deeper, there you go, oh yeah" !!! 🤣🤣🤣
You might well consider a "surface preparation tool" available from eastwood.com here, and probably many other sources. It uses a grinder type setup, but has a fairly wide (around 15cm) rotary tool with flap wheel design and others also depending on the job. The best and most economical tool I've found for removing paint from surfaces like auto bodies. Should work wonders on the hull, strip it down to bare wood and no chemicals required.
keep up the great work.
Removing and replacing one frame at a time shouldn’t be too much of a concern with regard to the hull changing shape. The double planked hull will hold its shape pretty well for a reasonable length of time.
Be careful when selecting valves and other fittings for through hulls (skin fittings). Only use bronze or non metallic fittings. Never use brass! Brass will quickly corrode as the copper is dissolved leaving only zinc, which has no strength.
Use the catalogue to check prices against E-Bay to save yourself money. Buy your bowls at the pound shop, ASDA or a similar shop to save even more money. Check out Lidl or Aldi for your tools. love the Vlog.
nice
Saludos desde puerto rico
Wish I was there to help u A bit of a drive. St. Marys Georgia.
So enjoy your banter. You two are fine! Please hang in there, stay at it. We here in coastal bend of Tx. Love your videos and esp. your progress. Thank you
The hull will need to be calked before priming and painting, won’t it?
Also faired, she’s been so neglected for so long. I think you’ll need to haul the boat and move to the dry to do this work.
Our hull doesn't have caulk, it's double diagonal planking with a layer of calico.
Over....Over:))))
Great fun ...had me laughing again especially the sanding of the through hull scene. Not sure if you're going to be steaming the frames. Peter Knowles from Travels with Geordie channel has set up a nice little I frame sized foam steamer box using a kettle or a wall steamer.his channel is great viewing if you haven't already seen it. He currently has his 1950s wooden boat out on the hard and is adding extra white oak and high density plastic frames to strengthen his boat at a weak point.
Travels with Geordie is a great channel full of amazing wooden boat restoration wonders.
“Soft Ollies” lol 😂
Make sure you trademark
Flopper stopper as a tool
Not an after dark toy or item of clothing 😁😁😁
Good progress guys , I’ve ordered the catalogue too !👍🏻
Excellent homemade tools! Nice goin! Looking forward to the framing. You an yours stay safe, vertical an well eh!
Good job on the WGN interview in America......
The Crab was like " Fuck me it's getting warm in here" lol
It's a family channel.
Great job again, can’t wait till next week!!
You also need to buy some loctite 577 for watertight valves
the handle of your stilly's (Stillson) are a good fit for the skin fitting.
With the painting competition have 2 teams put on a meal and have prizes for fastest team but must it properly
Thats what she said.
Hook the air horn to the alarm!
Hi guys how are you going to move the boat when ready??From Texas U.S.A.
Be careful you don't squeeze out all the Sika on those fittings. If you overtighten them you'll squeeze out all the Sika and it won't seal adequately.
Another absolutely totally amazing Vlog the 4 of are always spot on!!!
Simon your little gadget u came up with will probably be forsake on Amazon very soon lol. Keep up the great work!!’nn
Gatevalves on a boat are not a good idea because there's no way to tell at a glance whether they're open or shut. The lever type valves are a much better indicator...and much quicker to open or shut.
Funs over, back to work! :D