About 30 seconds in and I had one of my favourite "OH, IT'S THEM!" moments, loved watching Great Model Railway Challenge and it helped get me back into model work again,
Thank you Kathy for taking the time to show us how to do this. I think I will subscribe. Born Isle of Wight now in Dallas Texas via Canada and a few other awesome places in my 53 yrs. That makes us "countrymen" :-)
Wow i certainly wasn't expecting the finish to be that real!! i am massively impressed this looks better than any imitation of wood that i have ever seen , brilliant work,i will definitely be having a go at this,thank you
Thanks Kathy for another helpful video. What a great result! Oh, and I spotted your deliberate mistake, at the start of The Final Result (6:40), when you said "Wood made to look like plastic"!! :-)
I loved it Kathy but when you stated at 6:39 in The Final Result: "Wood made to look like Plastic" I decided to put the cork back in the bottle! ;) LOL!
Hi Kathy. Dave Farrell here. Why didn't you use something like Ronseal. They seem to have all the colours. And it is wood colouring. I know you were working on plastic. So perhaps it wont paint. Just a thought. Thank you x
Fantastic! I have never tried modelling wood before, but I`m starting on some 1/48 WWI fighters now and really need to learn it. And I`m happy to say I nailed it on my first try with your genius technique with using a fine blade saw to make the wood grain first. After some gentle sanding to get rid of the ridges, I painted it with a slightly thin Vallejo Natural Wood, then I gave it a wash with Vallejo Burned Umber to fill in the wood grain, before using several layers of Vallejo Wood Grain (transparent) to reach the shade of wood I wanted. And it turned out almost as good as I`ve seen on the net, just beautiful! Did you come up with the saw trick yourself? If so, please have a Nobel Prize in scale modelling, and if not, have one anyway for letting it on to the rest of us.
Nice tutorial. I really like how you scraped in the grain texture. Great tip. And I agree with the thought that sometimes you need to go bigger than scale to help the eye pick up what it expects to see. :) I was thinking that the scoring for the board separations might be staggered even more, so no boards ends up having matching ends. Sort of stagger a pair of rows, and then stagger the next pair from the first if that makes sense. :) I'm totally psyched to see so many views on this vid. The channel is really starting to pop, and rightly so. Great tutorials everyone can use. Keep on rockin'!
Thanks a lot! I love your channel - it's a real inspiration. I guess they might stagger the ends more but I was thinking like a floor - that there would be some kind of substructure beneath that the ends would have to line up on to be screwed down. That probably isn't the case here so it may be that they could stagger completely randomly although there is a weigh scale underneath. It is great to see so many views and do I appreciate all my viewers and subscribers. It makes doing these videos worthwhile.
Oh, I never thought about lining up the join lines for a substructure attachment. I don't know enough about how that kind of rail station would be built so your idea sounds solid to me. :)
Thanks, it's a track scale house that is used to house the machinery for weighing railroad cars. You can read more about them here: www.kathymillatt.co.uk/blog/2016/09/08/railroad-track-scales/
It gets harder in smaller scales but if you’re doing a large object then it’s doable. I prefer larger scales for detail but the smaller scales allow you to get whole scenes in a reasonable space which can give a huge impact.
ah, sorry i use the wrong words, i mean wood grain, using saw or metal brush like what you do, did you think it sensible to still able to see wood grain on 1/350 wood deck ?
About 30 seconds in and I had one of my favourite "OH, IT'S THEM!" moments, loved watching Great Model Railway Challenge and it helped get me back into model work again,
It was so much fun to do and I learnt loads. I do miss it.
That was very effective! Looked like strip wood once you finished :) Great job, something I'll definitely be trying in the future.
Cheers
Luke
Thanks Luke. Coming from you, that means a lot!
Very nice presentation and great tips. Different.
Thank you.
Thank you Kathy for taking the time to show us how to do this.
I think I will subscribe.
Born Isle of Wight now in Dallas Texas via Canada and a few other awesome places in my
53 yrs. That makes us "countrymen" :-)
+Jeremy Stuckey Thanks! The Isle of Wight is beautiful and very different to Texas. Glad to hear you are enjoying the videos.
oh wow! This is exactly what I need! Thank You!
Thank you for the tutorial. It was great. I have a deck to Fido on a 1/72 Japanese submarine. Thank you.
Glad you found it useful and good luck with your deck.
Wow i certainly wasn't expecting the finish to be that real!! i am massively impressed this looks better than any imitation of wood that i have ever seen , brilliant work,i will definitely be having a go at this,thank you
Thanks Digger. Sometimes the easiest things give the best results. Let me know how yours turns out.
Thanks for yet another helpful demonstration - only benefit of social distancing is more time for modelling. Stay safe.
There’s always a silver lining!
Thanks. I'll definetly do the same when I get back to work.
Brilliant!
Thank you great video plan to use this latter. Also thank you for putting the list of paint you used that is super helpful.
Glad you liked it. Also glad you found the list of paint. So many people ask for stuff in the write up that I wonder if anyone sees it!
Very nice! Thanks!
very good vid!!!
Extremely useful, thank you. 🙏
Glad it helped you.
Great stuff! Came in handy as I am starting this build soon.
Good luck with your build!
MASTERFUL
Thanks.
Excellent tutorial, one question what color is the Mig wash you used Kathy?
There’s a link to my website in the description with all the products used. I think this was dark wash.
Thanks Kathy for another helpful video. What a great result!
Oh, and I spotted your deliberate mistake, at the start of The Final Result (6:40), when you said "Wood made to look like plastic"!! :-)
It was an oops and I kept doing it. 😶🙄😳
Looks like real wood! Thanks for sharing it :)
Thanks Felis.
Just subscribed, well....yesterday I think it was, bloody nice and inspiring videos!
Great looking wood lookalike there!
Duececoupe Thanks a lot. Glad you're enjoying them.
I loved it Kathy but when you stated at 6:39 in The Final Result: "Wood made to look like Plastic" I decided to put the cork back in the bottle! ;) LOL!
Yep, sometimes things just come out wrong!
Excellent 'how to' Kathy, something useful for every type of modelling there :-D
Thanks a lot.
Nicely Done.
Thanks!
great how to. thanks for sharing
Thanks a lot - they're fun to do.
Awesome👍
Thanks.
@6:42 "Wooood made to look like plastic..."!!
Hi Kathy. Dave Farrell here. Why didn't you use something like Ronseal. They seem to have all the colours. And it is wood colouring. I know you were working on plastic. So perhaps it wont paint.
Just a thought. Thank you x
You can use it but it doesn’t sink in. I tend to use it on real wood not plastic.
Real nice!
+John Chandra V. Thanks!
Fantastic! I have never tried modelling wood before, but I`m starting on some 1/48 WWI fighters now and really need to learn it. And I`m happy to say I nailed it on my first try with your genius technique with using a fine blade saw to make the wood grain first.
After some gentle sanding to get rid of the ridges, I painted it with a slightly thin Vallejo Natural Wood, then I gave it a wash with Vallejo Burned Umber to fill in the wood grain, before using several layers of Vallejo Wood Grain (transparent) to reach the shade of wood I wanted.
And it turned out almost as good as I`ve seen on the net, just beautiful!
Did you come up with the saw trick yourself? If so, please have a Nobel Prize in scale modelling, and if not, have one anyway for letting it on to the rest of us.
Hi. I’m afraid the saw trick isn’t mine but I’m so glad it worked well for you.
Nice tutorial. I really like how you scraped in the grain texture. Great tip. And I agree with the thought that sometimes you need to go bigger than scale to help the eye pick up what it expects to see. :)
I was thinking that the scoring for the board separations might be staggered even more, so no boards ends up having matching ends. Sort of stagger a pair of rows, and then stagger the next pair from the first if that makes sense. :)
I'm totally psyched to see so many views on this vid. The channel is really starting to pop, and rightly so. Great tutorials everyone can use.
Keep on rockin'!
Thanks a lot! I love your channel - it's a real inspiration.
I guess they might stagger the ends more but I was thinking like a floor - that there would be some kind of substructure beneath that the ends would have to line up on to be screwed down. That probably isn't the case here so it may be that they could stagger completely randomly although there is a weigh scale underneath.
It is great to see so many views and do I appreciate all my viewers and subscribers. It makes doing these videos worthwhile.
Oh, I never thought about lining up the join lines for a substructure attachment. I don't know enough about how that kind of rail station would be built so your idea sounds solid to me. :)
It's a common enough theme when modelling wood buildings so I'm sure that it must be similar with track scales...
Fantastic, looked easy enough,what is the building attached to that is it a gates house for a crossing.?
Thanks, it's a track scale house that is used to house the machinery for weighing railroad cars. You can read more about them here: www.kathymillatt.co.uk/blog/2016/09/08/railroad-track-scales/
Mini Kathy....LOL!
Nice!
Gaabinubat Rafinulifilit Thanks!
Awesome very handy :)
Thanks a lot!
Kathy, just subscribed, Stephen Bennett mentioned you on his latest video. Great tips and great work!
Thanks a lot, hope you enjoy the videos.
thank Kathy, may i ask, does 1/350 still a good enough scale to do scratch effect like what you do ?
It gets harder in smaller scales but if you’re doing a large object then it’s doable. I prefer larger scales for detail but the smaller scales allow you to get whole scenes in a reasonable space which can give a huge impact.
It also depends on your eyesight and nimbleness of fingers!
ah, sorry i use the wrong words, i mean wood grain, using saw or metal brush like what you do, did you think it sensible to still able to see wood grain on 1/350 wood deck ?
I wouldn’t but sometimes the eye likes to see textures so it knows what it is. At 1/350, it’s probably a little unrealistic in my view.
I am sure you can still buy handbook with all info you need on woodprix. Just google it.
Seroiously, get the camera closer and focused properly.
Seriously, learn how to spell “seriously”!
very nice work enjoy watching your video's however you spelled color wrong lol opps lol
Thanks Lee, spelling's all a matter of perspective :)
Lee, 'color' is the American spelling. In the UK it's 'colour' :-)
lol you said wood made to look like plastic... at 6:42
That’s a real art form. 😁
Objects are much too far away.Dont wanna see you. OMG and what is that Shit at 07:10???