"… For the first section of the boulder I used the knee pads which transforms an extremely powerful move into an extremely technical one. Among the 8c that I have climbed, this boulder remains far more difficult, despite the new beta cause it requires a mix of power, precision and above all power endurance, which is a key factor since the total difficulty of the line is determined by keep an high level of strenght during all the climb together with a steady brain. I believe the right grade could be 8c/+" Elias Iagnemma
I made that same observation with nalle. floats this crimp testpiece and then takes 4 years for burden of dreams. won't surprise me if that turns out the first v18. for whatever the hell that means. lol.
This is incredible. Wish I could be there and be even more blown by how ridiculous those holds are he's using to hang on. The Italian in the background is just the cherry on top. "Dai Cazzo!!!" had me dying at the end haha
It's a lot steeper in real and the moves are way bigger, and the holds are trash especially the first 4 ones, I've stood in front of it and i was blown away by it
I've stood in front of that beast, it's way steeper then in the video, the moves are way further then they seem, there are crimps on the boulder, which cause you pain only by looking at them, I think Gioia is a dream for everyone who dedicated his life to climbing
If you look closely, after the big move at :42 , there are 2 hip swings that occur. the first big one, and a much smaller second one. He actually gets his left foot into position just in time for the last part of the second swing to assist in standing into the undercling. Sick technique
This was before Ondra has started hunting for every little micro kneebar tbf. He said it hurt when he saw how many kneebars Stefano had found on Change, Ondra just had a slightly different style back then
@@danyalismail3361 pretty sure Nalle also refused to comment on the grade. Am curious as to why theres ambiguity around it tho and why so many people have refused to comment
@@viktorlnt7835 I also prefer pure power moves, but saying is cheating is like when people called cheaters to the those who started hangdogging the routes instead of going down once they fell and start all over again. It's called evolution, you may not like it (the same like you don't like Ondra), I may not like it, but it's a new technique. Or should we avoid camalots and only use knots like in some europe's sandstone crags?
Cheating with kneepad!?!?!? You must not enjoy 99% of hard ascents these days, that must really suck to see such awesomeness and be too stubborn to enjoy it. Oh yeah I'm sure you have sent without kneepad also, so we really care about your opinion. 🤣
"… For the first section of the boulder I used the knee pads which transforms an extremely powerful move into an extremely technical one. Among the 8c that I have climbed, this boulder remains far more difficult, despite the new beta cause it requires a mix of power, precision and above all power endurance, which is a key factor since the total difficulty of the line is determined by keep an high level of strenght during all the climb together with a steady brain. I believe the right grade could be 8c/+" Elias Iagnemma
I love this one's soundtrack.
Dai cazzo!
This looks like the definition of a hard boulder
Crimp at :25....this dude is strong
Damn so smooth, love this dudes style
Impeccable.
Technique and power all beautifully mixed together. If climbing was a dance this would be a textbook example
climbing is dancing up rocks and walls. Textbook flow right here
@0:42 Body tension is stunning !
"Dai, cazzo!"
Beautiful line, and moves executed perfectly. The body tension needed to do this looks insane!
What a beautiful send ! Massive congrats to Elias, he made it look routine
Beautiful climbing,very powerful movements
He left Humanity behind with this one.. SOLID 💪
Incredible! Beautiful line and such strong, graceful climbing- thank you!
Damn when that heel hook slipped at 1:10 you held on for dear life, that was incredible.
Amazing brother! Passion and sacrifice have always distinguished you. You are a machine my bro.
❤️🔥🤟🏻🤙🏻
That first cut move! WOW! Dude makes it look like V5 agreed.
That was beautiful. Such elegant movement and damn strong, no wonder he made it look easy.
I remember Adam screaming up this thing and this dude just made it look like V5
how do i find the vid of ondra doing this?
@@Frivia just look it up, it's on TH-cam in the same video as him doing Terranova
Was about to say the same! Made it look so smooth.
I made that same observation with nalle. floats this crimp testpiece and then takes 4 years for burden of dreams. won't surprise me if that turns out the first v18. for whatever the hell that means. lol.
@Andy knee pad variation v15 ondra without it v16
He is so calm
Great job brooo! You are the best ❤️❤️❤️ You make it look so easy!
Powowow! So well dialed... great!
remarkably beautiful climbing.
Well done bro!!! 🙌🏻🔥💪🏻
I hope you will continue to amaze us with your sends! 🤩
floating 💪💪
It's astonishing to me that someone actually managed to find a kneebar that Adam didn't.
This is incredible. Wish I could be there and be even more blown by how ridiculous those holds are he's using to hang on. The Italian in the background is just the cherry on top. "Dai Cazzo!!!" had me dying at the end haha
And the thing is much steeper than it seems on videos...
It's a lot steeper in real and the moves are way bigger, and the holds are trash especially the first 4 ones, I've stood in front of it and i was blown away by it
I've stood in front of that beast, it's way steeper then in the video, the moves are way further then they seem, there are crimps on the boulder, which cause you pain only by looking at them, I think Gioia is a dream for everyone who dedicated his life to climbing
That was awesome, what a send!
Complimenti!
This looks like maybe V5 tops
V3 at your gym
Practically a ladder
jugs
Pink one in the corner is harder lol
felt like power screaming just watching that
If you look closely, after the big move at :42 , there are 2 hip swings that occur. the first big one, and a much smaller second one. He actually gets his left foot into position just in time for the last part of the second swing to assist in standing into the undercling. Sick technique
Strong as hell for sure, but the footwork is also near perfection!
Absolutely mint
didnt Christian Core want to chop the feet to prevent the kneebar lol?! epic send!!!!!
Such a savage
Frickin sweet
this is insane
It's amazing Knee-bar Ondra didn't find that method haha.
I'm guessing it's just a height difference thing. I don't like ondra but let's not disrespect him :)
Well he climbed it 10 years ago... ;)
Dave Graham found that kneebar.
This was before Ondra has started hunting for every little micro kneebar tbf. He said it hurt when he saw how many kneebars Stefano had found on Change, Ondra just had a slightly different style back then
@@jacobshexladder Pretty sure Dave's been hitting the kneebars since 97' maybe even 96'
Has anyone else used the kneebar to send
Who was the fourth ascent? I only knew of Core, Ondra, Hukkataival
Niky Ceria made an ascent not too long ago, interestingly without knee pads and without mentioning the grade.
@@danyalismail3361 like a boss, in all respects
@@danyalismail3361 pretty sure Nalle also refused to comment on the grade. Am curious as to why theres ambiguity around it tho and why so many people have refused to comment
@@jacobkaye6827 i am pretty sure Nalle commented on the grade
That was pretty sick
Insane
Is this one of those who chopped the holds? Read Christian Core article about...
@Andy
Nobody chopped holds kiddos. It was brushing and from what I understand it was fixed. The whole climb has glued holds.
@Andy is DELUSIONAL.
Haha you DUMBO you agreed that chopping was involved.
@Andy is backtracking.
You're hilarious. Please keep responding.
Everyone can read your original comment you DUMBO.
Full control
Epic
Too fucking strong.
I wish there was so close ups of some of the sections he is crimping on....just crazy he looks like he's holding onto nothing.
Floating
That looks absolutely heinous
Who got the 4th?
Niky Ceria
@@MOXCRunner1 Such a lowkey crusher I totally forgot about that! legend
Dai cazzo!
Featuring my favourite cuss word that isn’t English
love how everyone complains about the kneebar pad but not about how this climb is chipped/glued :)
Its just glued isnt it?
glue isn't a problem wdym
A hold broke, it got fixed. Why would anyone complain about that?
@@peeted7105 I was reading most of them got fixed with transparent cyanoacrilate glue
There are no holds. All of them are 15mm or less it looks like lol
15 mm would be a jug.
Some crimps here are prolly like 8 mm.
Hahahaha. Yessss
Hauling in 7 crashpads is standard, but wearing a small kneepad is cheating.....
*first campus ascent
......... yet not a single move of it was campused. Please...
Downgrade? Really?
looks impossibleeeee
crimpy
Shut up
With no screams hahahaha
cheating the hard move with the kneepad but nice one anyway...
Maybe that's why he added the downgrade?
@@thorna100 it wasnt him who added the dowmgrade its a contested grade adam ondra said v16 nalle hukkatal said v15
Nowadays everyone cheating with a kneepad. Maybe it doesn't count as cheating anymore?
@@viktorlnt7835 I also prefer pure power moves, but saying is cheating is like when people called cheaters to the those who started hangdogging the routes instead of going down once they fell and start all over again. It's called evolution, you may not like it (the same like you don't like Ondra), I may not like it, but it's a new technique. Or should we avoid camalots and only use knots like in some europe's sandstone crags?
Cheating with kneepad!?!?!? You must not enjoy 99% of hard ascents these days, that must really suck to see such awesomeness and be too stubborn to enjoy it. Oh yeah I'm sure you have sent without kneepad also, so we really care about your opinion. 🤣
lame kneebar
dialed