Rigging test: How much friction does a SafeBloc add
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- We have been using the SafeBloc a bit here and there, and the first thing you need to get used to, is how much less friction you need to add at the base of the tree, even when rigging large wood. So we were interested to see just how big of a log could we rig down with the friction of the SafeBloc slowly lowering the log down to the ground with no grounds person.
And here is our testing...
#climbingarborist #Arborist #TreeWork
Been looking at a triple thimble by notch. Thanks for this video
I have gravitated to the triple thimble and rarely use blocks anymore. The aerial friction reduces the force at the rigging point and reduces the need for a port-a-wrap.
@@markmalmstrom9038 how do you like it the triple and what size sling and which size lowering rope do you use with it? Also, does it make curly cues in the rope? Thanks!
@@paullanctot9476 sorry for the slow response I just saw this. It doesn’t really twist the rope and Is easy to use. It’s my first choice for aerial friction besides a natural crotch. Many times it eliminates the need for a port a wrap on the ground. We rarely use rigging blocks anymore.
@@paullanctot9476 I use a 3/4 tenex sling that I sliced in and usually 1/2” stable braid or Arbor Plex but you can use bigger rigging lines.
Unless I missed it (and it's highly possible), you didn't mention anything about the rope you're using. It looks to me like 1/2"- 5/8" Stable Braid, but if you were to change the diameter of the rope, the results would definitely vary. It's a super important variable with this particular device. You get a lot more friction with larger diameter ropes, and a lot less with a smaller diameter. I think the rope size and type/brand should be added to the initial info sheet. Otherwise, very interesting video. I don't use my Safebloc often, but I do like it for negative rigging- especially on compromised trees where doubling the load with a 2:1 is not a wise move.
I just wanted to be number one but I will have to settle with number two . Thanks very much genius guy !
Number 2 is ok, number one next time 😀
Great experiments!
I'd say you answered the question.
I use the triple thimble, because the rope doesn't end up running over itself/rope on rope friction
Very true, and something that was evident in this video
How do you like it? ( the triple) I haven’t seen many reviews on it and they are on sale now. Does it twist the rope and make curly cues? Also, what size sling and lowering rope do you use ? Thanks a lot.
Rope diameter is key, as is the height, as height determines how much rope is hanging beneath it (and rope diameter dictates rope weight as well).
Quick question from PA, USA. Has there been a throwline/ throw weight bwn or restriction in the EU/UK? Comes up about once a month from my one coworker who loves to have arguments over the smallest matters.
Great video but I think the first piece was bigger than 12 in LOL
That is some great stuff right there. Thanks for actually doing the testing and sharing it with all of us. That’s the kind of real world information that makes us all a little better at our craft.
Thank you, really appreciate your kind comment 🙏
Excellent video Dan, well explained and edited. The multiple camera angles and hearing the climber talking in the tree really sets this video apart from other stuff out there. Thank you, Jim H.
It's an interesting conversation about which direction to thread the safebloc. I'd never seen it threaded in the manner y'all have done in this video however this configuration actually catches the piece (when negative rigging) sooner than if threaded in the opposite direction. This distance is only the distance between the outside two holes but theatrically if it's a decently sized piece you can potentially reduce a significant amount of evergy...right?
Sling a steel figure 8 to a anchor an pocket sized porta wrap
👍
That was an interesting thought project the climber in the tree had some keen observations
💚👍👍👍
A Safe Block should add enough friction to allow the rigging to remain Safe.
🤘😎✌️
Safety is the name of the game
so just watching this video is there a right and wrong way to set up the safe bloc? as normally when snatching or negative rigging... id put the rope through the other way in the safe block... what i mean by that is you have started in the bottom hole on the safeblock>>> i would start at the top hole making the working end of the rope at the bottom hole of the safe block. you guys have it set up the other way round ? i shall instgram you a picture
When lowering a log the tail of the rope should enter the top most hole and the working end weaves through the holes and exits through the bottom most hole.
I have never heard of a rig going wrong the way they are doing it but the Xman designed and tested it the way I described.
I think I’ve seen posts about the block rotating in the splice if not done ‘your’ way
So i use friends as groundsman just to untie the rope, i tie the piece being cut with the part of the rope coming out of the bottom hole of safe block and hold the rope coming out of top hole this way when piece falls it is all oriented correctly.
Glad to see the variables of the bloc.
Alsome your alway thinking outside the box.
Have you used the safebloc with a rope such as a 18mm sirius bullrope ? Im looking at the safebloc for negative rigging big stems down
Largest was 5/8" that we used, but it will take larger, which also will add more friction so better for large pieces
Hey, great topic, great video.
I'm pretty sure these devices work mostly as force multipliers, a bit like a torsen differential. So, with zero drag on the rope other than its own weight and inertia, the SafeBloc is going to be finicky. Adding a weight (maybe 10% of the chunk's weight?) to the rope might produce more repeatable/predictable results, but then you've REALLY got to know how much rope you need and deal with that weight when it gets to you in the tree (hope it's moving slow). I've tried doing a few wraps around a branch to put drag on the rope going into a triple thimble before, with poor results; the chunk either flies off or goes nowhere. This idea of rigging her down yourself from above could get scary real quick: moving ropes too close to you. I think, an electromechanical device with a drop height setting would be the way to go, if anyone ever wants to really change things, not necessarily for the best
In 2:1 system you can neg rig 2-3 m logs without portawrap(only carabiner).
And for shure ,using this device or similar you can tie your rigging point higher and rig bigger.
Thanks for making this video Dan.
I work solo. I found it very interesting to see how much the PortaWrap slowed down the log with only one wrap. I'd like to see more tests with the PW with various numbers of wraps and no one running the rope. I use similar devices. The by Sein invera-wrap and RC1000. I take the inverta-wrap up with me and hang it on a loop runner sling 12 inches from my cut. May rigging rope is locked off on the stubs. After the cut swings down I lower the limb. I only use this method when the customer insists on no lawn damage. I'm going to experiment when an opportunity presents itself.
What diameter rigging rope were you using?
Awesome video.
Great video. I use one, two or all three holes in my safe-bloc, depending on desired friction.
That is the great thing about it, the different levels of friction
Next interesting thing.For shure you have to apply some force by your hands.
Very nice tool for Solo rigging operations.
I prefer 11-12 mm rope.If you need more friction you can make two wraps on the higher bar(closer to the rigging piece in vertical position- not so how this done in the video)
Love my safe block... Thanks for the great video!.. that will make me use my safe block more often..👍👍👍
Dan your demonstration shows the safebloc threaded backwards. If it is done correctly you can add a half or whole wrap b4 threading it if you need more friction.
Thank you for this intresting content. Just yesterday we had to lower some bigger oak branches and to gain some time I started self-rigging them whilst my workmate was dragging them out. I did it old-school (rope over branch above) and was surprised to notice that, often, friction and rope weight were enough to safely bring them down.
Thanks for the comment as always. Great work on your rigging job, sounds like you were being efficient with your time and man power
@@ClimbingArborist Thanks. During the process I was trying to figure out some kind of reliable self-braking system and after your test a safebloc seems to be a good solution.
Nice edit and very instructional!
How many cameras you have on site Dan?
I only got one and it makes for slow going!
Dan, this is an interesting topic, I like it. Thanks for your sharing.
Glad you enjoyed it
What about when I would like to pull the rope back to the conopy point again? Friction...
I use the safebloc like this often, it lets my groundsman do other chores while I keep working
Legend of a video sir..... For thumbnail calculations... using ring and ring slings.... I use 50lbs for each set in the tree or on the ground. Often use a single large redirect at the base also... I love this video.. there are endless tests that can be performed, refined and re-performed.... Great job by you and the team! You'll want to check out the possibilities with the new Tylaska rigging block... it's truly innovative!! Stay safe my friend and keep the high quality content coming! xo me
Cheers Mark, so glad you enjoyed this and the testing we did.
I like the sound of innovative new products especially in the rigging department. It’s a shame about the first picture you see in the arborist section of the Tylaska website 😬
For big loads(200-300 kg) better to add rigging ring on the safebloc sling for creating bigger bend radius on moving parts of sling.And we have try to hold aside safebloc from trunk(for avoid of glazing rope).
A lot of text -but who wants to know- will study :(
Don't know why google crossed words :)
That's a great test to see the impact value of the piece .
Interesting. Not really made for snatching but the Safebloc is a useful arrow in the tree surgeon's quiver .
It is absolutely made for snatching
This is pretty cool!
Cool
🤙
Dunno how this would work with no groundies, how do you untie the the lowered piece.. unless you dropping down and then climbing back up, I guess you could but that's would be a pain in the ass, nonetheless interesting on the fiction it adds great for certain applications👍
It is explained at the end of the video that this isn’t really showing a usable technique for a job site, it was more of a test to see how much the safebloc handles with no intervention
@@ClimbingArborist Sorry Dan. My fault must of not been paying attention to that part at the end i was doing things must of got distracted 😂🙈. I did rewatch, looks like would be perfect for when you only have one groundy as you mentioned all good👍
Great video!
what safety glasses are you wearing? theylook neat
They are a brand called Arclite
Great info. Great idea for a test!
Glad you liked it!