Thank you for this. I needed to redo my Murray so I got some embroidery thread. It normally takes a LOT of the thread I'd been using, so I didn't even divide skeins for it. It took three layers on two of the joints and two layers on the third. You saved me about two hours of winding and it's a much neater looking job, too.
This is helpful -- thank you. If I might offer a suggestion, before winding the thread, I apply to the wooden tenon a thin layer of beeswax+turpentine mixture (of about the consistency used to polish furniture). As the turpentine eventually evaporates, the firm wax helps the first layer of lapping to adhere to the tenon and helps to avoid the lapping as a whole from later rotating about the wood or becoming undone. It can also help, to reduce water absorption, to impregnate the thread with grease before winding it on; this reduces the need to build up the grease after lapping.
Thanks, Lewis. 🙂 I don't (from long experience) find it necessary to do anything extra to what I show here. I've never had one of my lappings come loose and rotate on the tenon en-masse, though of course I've met old, dried out ones that's happened to. I've tried pre-greasing the thread and don't consider it worth the effort. I also dislike using beeswax, as explained in my linked document.
You freaked me out at 11:26. WAY too tight! The fit should have been aborted and immediately some thread should have been removed before trying further. If you have to apply THAT much force and it is making THAT much friction/grinding noise, you are at a big and immediate risk of cracking the joint. You're lucky it didn't crack then. I learned the hard way!
Suit yourself. I'm not sure exactly what type of thread you're referring to, but if it's what I think it is I wouldn't choose it because it's a tight, "hard" spun thread. cf my document. I don't pre-grease the thread I use because, having tried it, I don’t find it a worthwhile extra process - applying the grease as I show is less fuss.
Modern clarinets invariably have cork-lapped joints and should be kept that way. It would be possible to apply a thread lapping instead, but not advisable and there's no good reason to do so. However, "early" clarinets (I'm no clarinet expert, but I'd guess up until the 1830s at least) would have the same kind of thread tenon lapping which can certainly be done the same way. Ditto oboes. Modern replicas of period instruments are normally set up in the same way as their original models, but if in any doubt, consult the maker if at all possible.
@@Jemtheflute it's a vintage 1940s clarinet with some bad corks. The repair shop is charging alot of money to change them. The tenons seam to be grooved. Could you elaborate on why it's not advisable?
@@PacoElMapache, because the tenons and sockets are designed for cork. "Combing" in the lapping beds is not per se an indication that thread was/should be used - it was often done on tenons to be cork-lapped to increase the surface area for the glue to improve adhesion. Thread as a temporary measure might be harmless enough, but I suspect it'll take rather a lot of thread! Corking tenons ought to be a standard and not hugely expensive job if nothing else is wrong/needs doing. I have no idea what a reasonable going rate might be, though. It's not rocket science nor terribly expensive to acquire suitable cork sheet and learn to do your own, though best to be shown how! There are risks of cracking sockets with both thread and cork lappings if not done righ/with due caution. 1940s is definitely "modern", BTW! 😉
@@Jemtheflute Yeah has cork on it. It's definitely designed for cork Its an old Jean Cartier professional clarinet. (old stencil instrument) i figured that because it was done on really old clarinets and modern obos and recorders that it wouldn't be so bad on more moden clarinets. Appart some inconveniences that cork mitigates. I mean there is a surely a reason that instruments mostly use cork and not string now days, but do you think I would damage the instrument if i thread the tenons? If so i'll just wait till i have the funds to get the corks fixed. I don't want to ruin a good instrument. Thank you greatly by the way for replying to me :)
@@PacoElMapache, you're welcome. Have you tried contacting other technicians for a quotation on the tenon corking? I've no idea where you are, of course, nor what estimate you have been given.
Thank you for this. I needed to redo my Murray so I got some embroidery thread. It normally takes a LOT of the thread I'd been using, so I didn't even divide skeins for it. It took three layers on two of the joints and two layers on the third. You saved me about two hours of winding and it's a much neater looking job, too.
This is helpful -- thank you. If I might offer a suggestion, before winding the thread, I apply to the wooden tenon a thin layer of beeswax+turpentine mixture (of about the consistency used to polish furniture). As the turpentine eventually evaporates, the firm wax helps the first layer of lapping to adhere to the tenon and helps to avoid the lapping as a whole from later rotating about the wood or becoming undone. It can also help, to reduce water absorption, to impregnate the thread with grease before winding it on; this reduces the need to build up the grease after lapping.
Thanks, Lewis. 🙂
I don't (from long experience) find it necessary to do anything extra to what I show here. I've never had one of my lappings come loose and rotate on the tenon en-masse, though of course I've met old, dried out ones that's happened to. I've tried pre-greasing the thread and don't consider it worth the effort. I also dislike using beeswax, as explained in my linked document.
@@Jemtheflute thank you.
Thanks for your time and expertise sir so very interesting!🙏🙏🙏
Wow! Thanks for this video. Very Helpful!
You freaked me out at 11:26. WAY too tight! The fit should have been aborted and immediately some thread should have been removed before trying further. If you have to apply THAT much force and it is making THAT much friction/grinding noise, you are at a big and immediate risk of cracking the joint. You're lucky it didn't crack then. I learned the hard way!
I used waxed cotton thread stays better and slid joints easy.
Suit yourself. I'm not sure exactly what type of thread you're referring to, but if it's what I think it is I wouldn't choose it because it's a tight, "hard" spun thread. cf my document.
I don't pre-grease the thread I use because, having tried it, I don’t find it a worthwhile extra process - applying the grease as I show is less fuss.
does this work with clarinets?
Modern clarinets invariably have cork-lapped joints and should be kept that way. It would be possible to apply a thread lapping instead, but not advisable and there's no good reason to do so. However, "early" clarinets (I'm no clarinet expert, but I'd guess up until the 1830s at least) would have the same kind of thread tenon lapping which can certainly be done the same way. Ditto oboes. Modern replicas of period instruments are normally set up in the same way as their original models, but if in any doubt, consult the maker if at all possible.
@@Jemtheflute it's a vintage 1940s clarinet with some bad corks. The repair shop is charging alot of money to change them. The tenons seam to be grooved. Could you elaborate on why it's not advisable?
@@PacoElMapache, because the tenons and sockets are designed for cork. "Combing" in the lapping beds is not per se an indication that thread was/should be used - it was often done on tenons to be cork-lapped to increase the surface area for the glue to improve adhesion. Thread as a temporary measure might be harmless enough, but I suspect it'll take rather a lot of thread! Corking tenons ought to be a standard and not hugely expensive job if nothing else is wrong/needs doing. I have no idea what a reasonable going rate might be, though. It's not rocket science nor terribly expensive to acquire suitable cork sheet and learn to do your own, though best to be shown how! There are risks of cracking sockets with both thread and cork lappings if not done righ/with due caution.
1940s is definitely "modern", BTW! 😉
@@Jemtheflute Yeah has cork on it. It's definitely designed for cork Its an old Jean Cartier professional clarinet. (old stencil instrument) i figured that because it was done on really old clarinets and modern obos and recorders that it wouldn't be so bad on more moden clarinets. Appart some inconveniences that cork mitigates. I mean there is a surely a reason that instruments mostly use cork and not string now days, but do you think I would damage the instrument if i thread the tenons? If so i'll just wait till i have the funds to get the corks fixed. I don't want to ruin a good instrument. Thank you greatly by the way for replying to me :)
@@PacoElMapache, you're welcome. Have you tried contacting other technicians for a quotation on the tenon corking? I've no idea where you are, of course, nor what estimate you have been given.