HVAC Return Vent ISSUES! DO NOT Locate Return Vents HERE!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ส.ค. 2024
- In this video, Joshua goes three locations that return vents should not be located. In some of these locations, you can cause issues in your home if you were to locate a return in these rooms, however… Some of these locations are actual safety issues if you happen to locate a return vent in these parts of the home. So before adding a return to a room in your home, watch this video, and make sure that you are not causing an issue that could harm you, your home, or your family!
For more information on Griffin Air, visit www.griffinair.net/
For more information on New HVAC Guide, visit www.newhvacguide.com/overview
*Need Financing for your HVAC? Visit www.newhvacguide.com/financing
*Own a Service Biz and want to grow? Visit www.newhvacguide.com/mastermi...
*Our favorite products?
Favorite Thermostat click here: amzn.to/3wt3Vwh
Favorite Air Cleaner here: amzn.to/4bGkqGB
Favorite Air Filter here: amzn.to/3vpVbWl
Air Tester/Monitor here: amzn.to/3oJ3LvD
Dehumidifier here: amzn.to/3Q4woPp
Humidifier here: amzn.to/3ilZ9vq
Smart Vent here: amzn.to/3JDfGDX
HVAC Soft Start: amzn.to/3kMXlwT
HVAC Guide for Homeowners is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon offers a small commission on products sold through their affiliate links. Each of your purchases via our Amazon affiliation links supports our cause at no additional cost to you.
Griffin Air and Joshua Griffin have partnered with Daikin on multiple projects. FTC requires disclosure of these relationships due to the compensation received.
---------Chapters-----------
0:00 Intro: Return Vent Locations
0:56 Garages
1:45 Bathrooms
2:05 Kitchens
2:39 High Traffic Low
3:07 Behind Furniture
3:35 Fireplaces
4:30 External Doors and Windows
5:15 Exterior Walls
6:06 Dusty Rooms or Activities
6:48 Pets
7:30 Closets
8:44 Ductwork Decisions for less static
9:20 Outro
#hvac #ductwork #acreturn - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Awesome video. Exactly the answer I was looking for. I was going to locate a Geothermal return close to stair landing, and now I will move it a couple of inches up, away from "high traffic." Smart advise thank you
Hey Joshua, newly a watcher of your vids. I'm getting ready to replace my A/C, Furnace & Ductwork. Been having some very concerning health respiratory issues that's been ongoing for a few months now. Had an Hvac company come out n' open up our A/C since we were smelling & oily smell in addition to our feeling sickly & discovered our old unit was corroded inside & I suspect a freon leak & possibly mold. This is all new to me so I'm trying to get familiar as I've been meeting w/ Hvac companies. I live in Orange County, CA & have met w/ 6 companies. So regarding return vents, I have a 2 story home about 2300 sq ft. We've got 1 return vent in a small hallway downstairs. At least a couple of these companies have suggested adding a return vent upstairs next to the A/C/Furnace that's located in a closet hallway upstairs. One company said do that but close the original downstairs vent & another company said keep them both. But the most interesting suggestion was another company said to yes add the return vent upstairs right next to the A/C furnace closet, but then also add a return vent to the bottom of the closet door that the A/C units in & would be a couple feet away from the other new vent they would add just around the wall corner. I've never heard of this. He said he would cut the door shorter & put the vent in where the bottom of the door is. But again, that's also only a couple feet away from the other vent he'd also add & is only a couple feet around a wall corner. Have you guys ever done that? And then said he'd close the downstairs return vent. A couple companies suggested closing the downstairs vent because it's taking air from a cavity space in the house & whatever questionable air quality's in there. One company said they can seal that space the downstairs vent is pulling from and they even had videos on TH-cam showing that but another company said you can't really seal it because it's basically an open area. I've been researching & watching vids trying to familiarize myself w/ all of this before choosing, including going w/ a heat pump vs a Stage 1 A/C & furnace I currently have. I asked the last company if he can do a 1 Stage traditional A/C unit & then an Electric Furnace & still do zoning & he said No, I'd have to do at least the 2 stage or variable speed pump to do zoning. Which I may not do zoning. And he mentioned doing things like bypass ducting they don't do anymore & I read is a headache & he said dumping(the air) is the other thing they do but is kind of pointless & defeats the purpose. Is that true? And w/ the ducts a couple of the companies told me I have the old alumibestos ducts & need to replace em'. After watching a bunch o' vids & my main goal is to avoid mildew or ducts that break down & release particles after a few years, so I'm wanting to go w/ metal but know their more costly. And lastly looks like I've also gotta replace my insulation in the attic. I'm probably gonna stick w/ batts. Don't think I wanna do spray foam. Would really appreciate your advice & input. And any anybody else has any to offer. Thanks!!
I have violated some of what you said - situational and could argue, but garage absolutely must be separate. Fully agree on that one. If maintain filters like I do, I want the source of crap contained. My current house, all returns are in the ceiling, so no big issues. I installed an oil furnace I aquired in the garage to keep from tying into the house gas furnace. Ya, gas can be cheaper, but up front cost, I don’t mind burning oil a few hours a day.
Informative thank you
Thanks for the channel Josh - wish you were closer to Pennsylvania!
Question on my 1989 home. Im finishing the basement but in looking in one of my ductwork (1" thick insulated) I opened it up and see black dust inside the whole main heat run. We don't have an ionizer or UV light.
Do the new metal ducts have the same problem? I'm considering getting all new ductwork before I close up my ceiling behind drywall.
I paid a small fortune for a new HVAC system in Phoenix. I paid for a new return but when the installers came they said all that was needed was to enlarge the current return. A 2nd return was not needed. My house is about 2400sq Feet. It stopped working a month after Installed and the tech that came out said I had high static pressure. I feel scammed.
Hey, I am remodeling our basement. I have to work around what’s already there so I am leaving the ducts where they are and patching in return air vents where I can. Putting in two bedrooms an office and a workout area / storage room. Typically upstairs most rooms have two supply vents and one double stud bay wide air return. The basement rooms all just have one supply vent. And I am tying into the existing return vents from upstairs. I assume that’s about as good as I can do unless I try to enclose a free/ empty joist cavity essentially running new return air circuits. I’m using the logic that if the upstairs rooms have two supply vents and a double wide vent. Then the downstairs rooms with one vent will be adequate to tie into one joist cavity return from upstairs. And shouldn’t affect the overall airflow upstairs all that much. And be good enough to circulate air in the rooms downstairs.
So, if you have an open floor plan, where should that return go? There is a kitchen and a fireplace and it would be high traffic as well. Really wanted to avoid a large vent in the wall in that part of the house.
All 3 of my bathrooms in my 1987 house have return air vents. Such a strange choice but I’ve had no issues. Although I have a giant Merv 16 carbon filter. But until last year I only had a 1 inch filter and never noticed bathroom smells in the home
Can I build a cabinet around the return vent if I have the same size opening to the front of the cabinet? Just used for the vent. So basically extending the vented area to the front of the cabinet?
What do you think about jumpers?? My kids room are so hot and I think is cause it doesn’t pull hot air from there . When doors are open it gets a little colder but when doors are closed rooms get so hot
live in a one story ranch house , the air handler is in the attic with an air filter, have only one 24 x 24 return duct located in hallway near bedrooms. Does this return require an air filter ?
My furnace/ac A-coil is in a terrible place. My laundry room right across from the back door. A return vent was placed in the laundry entrance door off of the kitchen. Not only do i have the issue of the hot or cold air being pulled in from the back door, but moisture from the drier plus the entry doors vent constantly falling off due to the air suction when the furnace/ac kicks on. Along with "ghosts" slamming other internal doors 😂
Ive got a new build house and a couple returns a are letting in cold air in when the heat is on. All returns are in the ceiling. Why would the returns be letting in cool or cold air? Thx!
I have a loud bang when the furnace turn on or off, it is coming from the return vent section that is right next to the furnace. I believe the new fence require more return air causing this bang. Is it ok to cut an opening in the return duct that is in the furnace closet to increase the return flow, knowing that the closet has the furnace and hot water tank? if not, whats the nest solution to reduce the duct bang noise
Thanks Joshua! An interesting topic to me, as I have had uneven heating and cooling on the second floor unit (separately zoned from the first floor) over time. There is a big bonus room (25 x 25, vaulted ceiling), which has 4 vents and its own return, which is located high up on an interior wall - near the ceiling, in fact. Thermostat is in an adjoining hallway. I can see that, when in heating mode at least, rising heated air from the vents will get sucked into the return without ever reaching the thermostat in the hallway, or getting a chance to mix with other second floor air beyond the bonus room.. So thermostat placement, as much as the returns, seems problematic, with other rooms getting hotter than they should while heat seems to stay on too long, maybe due to thermostat location?
Thermostat location does not typically play as big of a role as ductwork when it comes to issues with certain parts of the home getting hot versus cold. Obviously, there are exceptions to this role, but I usually start with looking at ductwork, sizing, zoning, and air flow before looking at thermostat location
Yo this dude is like my HVAC savant as a contractor/builder. 😂👍🏽 I go H.a.M. on my HVAC subs
I loved the video, I only wish that your cameraman/editor would chill with the cuts. I actually got queasy watching the video from zooming in zooming out.
Now for my AC question. What about areas like Kentucky that it may be cold in the morning hot in the afternoon and cold in the evening? My home is more than 50 years old and I cannot reasonably put automation into the ductworks. What if I just cover some returns when heating so that it pulls more from the hot areas and cover the others when needing to cool down the home? Is that unreasonable or is there a better solution or will it work at all?
I have return vents in my bathroom and I like it. The techs thought it was a bad idea. But it removes the moisture a lot better then the little exhaust fans. It also fixes the problem when people don't use the exhaust fan. That being said I also have a whole house dehumidifier.
I have the same. All 3 of my bathrooms have returns. I have a sensitive nose and I’ve never smelled anything. I did upgrade to a large media filter with carbon
@@skylerdylan1005 Yeah I've never notice any smells. The only thing I did notice was alot of heat when the shower was on, but that was also i think because there was way too much air coming out of the supply. Now that the amount air was reduced I haven't noticed it all.
My 1991 home has a master bedroom with a master bath, and a small/mid size walk-in closet in the master bath. Each room has its own door. There are are three similarly-sized supply vents, one in the bedroom, one in the bathroom and one in the closet, with one return for all three in the bedroom. I would like to close the closet door most of the time, and I would also like to close the bathroom door sometimes. I'm concerned that the majority of the supply is blocked off from the return when one or both doors are closed. Any advice?
We purchased a house that was massively renovated and the floor plan on the 1st floor of a 2 story is very open now.
I come to find 3 of the 4 bedrooms and 2nd story hall all have blocked returns. Meaning. There are return vents in the wall. But because of the floor plan changes on the 1st the return duct does not go anywhere.
I assume yes, but is this an issue and, how can I solve it?
hi - one of our main returns is down by front door of our townhouse and it cycles under the steps. there is a CONSTANT mildew type smell i cant get rid of. we even replaced the whole furnace and had the ducts cleaned three times. the smell is just the house and how it smells under the steps where the air draws from. can this be moved? or any solutions? im 10,000 in and my hair and clothes just always smell musty and i want to cry.
Mine is by the front door. Alternative: bedroom hallway (but outside a stinky bathroom), or in a bedroom, but have to deal with the return acting like a microphone/ speaker.
Odd question; my return vent is on the wall below the second floor system enclosed in drywall but the drywall inside the ducting was opened giving access to the second story floor system. Is this right?
Situation here:
Removed a wall and turned my space into an open concept. There were two returns that got removed. It looks like there is one return still there. Can I get away with not replacing the other 2? Can I install return in the floor? There is no wall to place them so they will have to be in the floor if anything. Any takers?
Great video. You mention filters in return vents as if every return vent must have a filter. I understand you need a filter either at the return vent or at the air handler but the air handler location is preferred. Do you put filters at the vents and at the air handler?
Depends on the house but no 🙂
My living room is 14'x21' with a vault ceiling. The return is on the interior wall 10' up on the right as you walk in the living room from the front of house. I am inform to remove the return 12' down the length of wall staying at about the same height or lower which is above a 6' open into the kitchen which the stove is about 13' away would this be a problem?
Joshua if they want a return grille in the bathrooms tell them to put an outhouse outdoors with a window unit! lol
🤣
I have ac going into 2 bedrooms, but if doors are closed, the rooms don’t cool off. I don’t want to install returns, but should I add a vent opening through the wall into the living room for airflow? Thanks Joe
The return vents in our new build are not connected to the air return duct. They are open to the entire unfinished basement and the duct just has holes cut into the top. It doesn't seem right but our HVAC guy says its normal and wont affect anything. Is this correct?
Whats added information to kow about returns is, how big they need to be or should there be more than one return and for lower noise needs, efficiency, balance etc.
Very good point sir
@@NewHVACGuide Even though I'm DIY...I can see a lot of bad installs in my travels. Especially in those verticle units that have the return 100% one foot below them on the floor or in the ceiling near a stariway that make much noise that is not necessary. Just that one return !
I have seen some improvements as well over the years in that supply vents are now going into walk in closets, bathrooms, positioned near exterior windows vs. the door entrance to bedrooms/rooms. But I still see those "expert professionals" installing those thin stamped grills/registers that restrict airflow and make noise that could easily be prevented by using those "rolled" registers that might cost a few hundred more per house. Attics more than not have ducting that are strangeled vs. routed and no dampers to balance out the install. Everyone does the minimum and customers don't know to ask this stuff. Are they supposed to rely on the Government to get the industry to do a decent install? Usually everyone is better off without the Government mandates in my experience.
Thanks for the quick reply Joshua! These videos have been a wonderful guide for me as I select my next heat pump to invest in - yes a very big investment indeed! I had one more quick question, more about sizing but asking here because in the past counting ducts and returns seemed to be the primary measure used in my installs to determine proper tonnage. The question is - How does square footage factor into capacity determination? My 2-story home is 3800 sq. ft. and there is a 3 ton unit for each floor. In the past several years, summers in the pacific northwest have gotten hotter, and I've seen the second floor unit struggle to keep things cool on the hotter days. I read an article citing a tonnage rule of thumb = 2 tons per 1000 sq ft. Based on that figure alone it seems my net tonnage is low. Is this rule of thumb legitimate to include in capacity calculations? And fyi I expect to get a two speed or variable speed outdoor unit to ensure slight overcapacity is kinda compensated for.
People that write that stuff on the Internet don’t know what they’re talking about. To properly size, a heating and air system, several things are taken into account when doing a heat load calculation. Part of the country you’re in does play a role, square footage as well, but, they factor many other things, such as the R-value of the insulation and ceiling heights. I would highly recommend getting a heat load calculation performed by a pro, even if you have to pay for it.
@@NewHVACGuide That's good advice, thanks a bunch Joshua.
In a McDonalds kitchen. Main forced air vent, right beside air return vent side by side in the ceiling.
Can you install on the ceiling, thank you
Yes it's probably one of the best options. Just make sure the return is 2 sizes bigger than supply duct example if you have a 10 inch duct supply have a 14 inch return helps if the air handler is already in the attic
Everytime I'm in someones house I intentionally fart by their vent. It helps to send the love to the other areas of the home. They always love it
😂
Hi Joshua, I'm an interior designer and working on a second/top floor primary bedroom update. There are two (I assume) cold air return vents high on an interior wall (opposite windows) which is probably perfect from a HVAC efficiency standpoint, but they are on the headboard wall and are such an eyesore. I want to hang art above the bed which is just going to draw the eye in the direction of these vents (one on either side of a stud). I'm trying to find a way to either 1.) extend the venting and move them to the ceiling between the drywall ceiling and the roof, or 2.) somehow make them less noticeable. Any suggestions/ideas? Thanks in advance!
Without seeing the house, it’s hard to say the best course of action. But I would guess there are probably a few options if you consult a pro that they may be able to show you. Depending on the situation, you may be able to reroute the returns away from that wall entirely.
I'm trying to add at least 2 returns.. is there any good place to have them?? 😅
Nope no where and forget about fresh air
Can i move the location please? it's too noisy and located literally behind my couch in the living room. Can I move it to another room ?
All things are possible with some metal fabrication, a little wood, some drywall, and some fun 🙂
Idk, I'm working on a 101 year old house and there is no insulation in the walls. I intend to tie into the old return and block off the source that went under the house for a return due to it not being sealed brick. Huge pain considering the idiots who were supposed to do this job over 2 years ago now left it open into my woodshop basement. As a renter I'm a bit mad about this considering my landlord went the cheapest route possible and some of my tools came up missing in the shop. I'm about to sue over this and put a lean on the property, since I'm finishing the work myself and my day rate is $5,000.00 per day for my time and labor costs for my shop usually and since this is in my shop well, I feel justified charging my rate to the people I rent from. Legally a judge would agree.
Top of stairs where heat rises
The issue is the returning air makes a room cooler and dustier due to the moving of air. Never put a return vent in a drafty room, it will make the room colder. My opiniin returns should only be located in a hallway
Near a supply grill
Ah! Missed that one! Good tip!
I searched where is the best place to put your register AND THIS GUY HAS TOLD ME EVERYWHERE NOT TO PUT 1 WHICH IS GREAT CUZ OK WHATEVER HE DIDNT NAME MUST BE GOOD
BUT I DONT THINK THERES ANYWHERE LEFT TO PUT 1 NOW ........IM MORE BAFFLED THAN WHEN I STARTED BROTHA
You made me laugh saying closets where some people spend a lot of time. I can't imagine a closet that big. Now my question that might make you laugh, where do we get filters for our return? Mine is in a fine location but doesn't look like it has a filter. I'm just learning as a home owner.
We have customers with “closets” that have furniture in them. Crazy!
I do have a return right in the kitchen; it was there since the house was built in 1976.-
The 70s were a different time sir!
@@NewHVACGuide Wrong; the builders are the same and set rules!