This^^ I repair these for a living. Bought by a cheapskate on the internet, total mismatch for the intended use, burns up in no time but hey the right size costs twice the price. So let's blame Makita.
@@astranger448 It's weird how vendors succeeded in making the user's fault, when the crap they are selling dies because of usage. This is SCAM because it's absolutely not necessary. And there's no 'dies within weeks if used seriously, because despite the brand name this is crap!' label on that stuff.
@@astranger448 IKR, What kind of dumb butt would use this wonder of pacific engineering for something so crude as to drive a screw into pine wood?.....!
It was blocked pre-clutch: the dirt between the magnet and the rotor. Next, the airway was also blocked by the dirt and with reduced RPMs and the fan even pumping less cool air, it had a meltdown.
Agreed, the only motor I cooked like that was by powering it with double its rated voltage and putting on twice the load. Voltage is fine, but as he runs the drill you can see the light on the front dim, suggesting a very high (mechanical) load.
I doubt blocked preclutch. More like spent the day swished arround in a muddy puddle and the last 4 months around a dirty shop with loads of fero magnetic dust, you can see it coated the feild. The iron dust would of caused drag on the arm assy also wearing off the insulation causing more drag and poss short to ground
are you sure that dust wasn't actually ash from the burning insulation on the copper wire? if I buy a pro tool I expect it to function in shop conditions aka the fan can blow modest amounts of dust out from the tool. IDK, not really a makita fan anyways.
Not sure if that's dirt, or the pulverized remains of the magnets in the yoke, they're something black and uncoated, maybe a little chip get in and cracks one, which starts an avalanche of more and more debris till they're knackered to the point the motor stalls out and burns out. The "sides" of the magnet don't seem to be well protected, could see some damage starting there and propagating inside
With how much crap was stuck to the laminated magnet ring on that motor, I'm thinking someone ran it in a room full of metal shavings and abrasive dust until the enamel got worn off the motor windings. I've taken apart some of my own dead tools that have been used for a decade doing HVAC and auto repair work to find less schmoo embedded in the magnet assembly. May be a good idea to not let the kids run the tools in the pile of chips by the old bridgeport? or if you want a real "hard to pass" test, let them run every tool through the abrasive dust ingestion gauntlet.
Honestly it looks like it spent the night in a mud puddle next to the truck. The rust spots on the laminates match the bumps inside the casing, so water was held there for a while after the rest of her dried out. The gap between the rotor and stator probably got filled up with schmoo and because of the drag between them, couldn't develop enough torque to work the hammers. Then the motor stalls, coils heat up, and it sends out SOS smoke signals. They eventually melted together and the magnetic field decreases, making less torque and more heat and now it's in the bucket. Just my guess.
Same, im in hvac too and mine never looked like this one, although I take mine apart every six months to clean and relube everything. My makita is almost a decade old.
Good to see you have good taste in fellow TH-camrs young man, as I've watched you both for some time now. I bet you two would make an excellent team, but that's only wishful thinking as the distance is too great for that to become reality. Glad to see you out n about, stay safe n be well.
Project Farm did a head-to-head knock off vs. legit Makita and it was pretty dang interesting. The knock-off had a very noticeable lag from the trigger input to the driver. Bunch of other changes inside as well.
I’m betting one adjacent turn shorted to another and the whole unit ran out of spec and got hot every use, that would explain why it’s thoroughly cooked and not one obvious hotspot
Oof. Some would say that it's too soon, but it's been 34 years. The RBMK wiki page is kind of funny when it states: 10 operational, 1 destroyed, 9 cancelled, 7 decommissioned.
I've got the old version of this in the shop. Few months back the 3rd shift guy dropped it in a tank of 15% sulfuric acid and water. Fished it out, hosed it off, and kept using it. To this day it still works (battery died the next day). I even bought a bran new XDT16 to replace it and didn't even need to.
I wouldn't say same, but I've had great experience with my makita. I've had mine for almost 10 yrs, dropped it off of 20 foot roofs multiple times and she still choochin.
No kidding! I still have a Makita cordless that’s over 20 years old hanging out in my shop. It hasn’t had a hot supper for years but it still worked the last time I picked it up and gave it the grill tong type test.
@@Norweeg stuff made 20 years ago isn't the same as the engineering firms who bought up all these tool brand names and farmed them out to the lowest chinese manufacturing plant.
I bought those Shockwave bits after watching a project farm video. I got 7 for the same price as 20 Dewalt ones but based on the testing he did, they should last longer. I've been happy with them so far.
@@lukie4ever Same along with their impact bit holders and right angle adapter, Makita makes great power tools I wish their accessories were better. 🤷♂️
Many years ago an auto electrician friend working from a tiny loft made a living rewinding Citroen starter motors and alternators. They came new with a 12 month’s warranty from the factory. However, many failed around 13 or14 months, just outside their warranty period. Each winding failed in exactly the same spot. He proved it to me by showing me an alternator that was already stripped out of its housing and guaranteed that the one he was about to open would have failed in the same spot. Why would I ever have doubted him lol just like magic the winding had burnt out exactly where he showed me it would be. His explanation was simple, he believed a drop of corrosive acid at the prescribed strength had been dropped on each winding on the production line! Each guaranteed to fail outside of the warranty period. Your Makita motor brought these memories flooding back....thank you! Perhaps this old production trick to guarantee after sales for main distributors has not been lost on modern day battery tools?
I've got either the same or similar model, I find when you trying to drive lots of posidrive screws I always push on the back to try and stop the bits camming out. After a while it gets red hot and you can feel it cooking through your gloves. I found I have to do this a lot more with this impact driver as the speed control is not very progressive, it's to easy to give it full beans and tear out the screw head, vs my old Hitachi driver this was far more controllable. My bet is the guys have been leaning on the back and blocking the cooling.
@@Rudy97 I keep a old dewalt dc988 and use it with a adaptor plate and new li-ion batteries as I have to push the back of my drill quite a lot when working, and its the last dewalt with good ventilation and handy rubber ribs on the back for getting a good grip of :)
@@Rudy97 yep when bearing down you gotta palm it with you fingers and thumb straight out, resist the urge to cup the back or you'll be shortening the drills lifespan. One thing we all learn for AvE is they sure don't make'em like they used to.
@@Rudy97 Not all drills. My 3 handled 600rpm Craftsman drill has the problem solved so you never block the holes. She's a beast in steel or concrete. If you are using a drill and you have to cover the holes to push more chances are you are using the wrong drill for the job and you should go up a size or three.
I sometimes feel like the limiting factor is the user, not how overbuilt the tool is. Some need a hilti to have a tool that lasts them more than two years, others get the same ammount of work done with a makita or bosch blue. Ive used makita for the last ten years and cant really complain about anything. I am not a craftman who uses them all day every day, but I still got quite a bit of use out of them. The two grinders, one impact driver and 3 drills have built an entire stay for 1600 pigs, a big barn, put new roofs onto two other barns and done everything else that came up in the last few years. The old batteries arent that great anymore and one of them failed, but we are talking about 10 years of use right here. Maybe its just me, but I think there is quite a bit of tool snobbery going on.
@Spider's Morning Yeah has to be faulty winding or debris, that may even have been left there during assembly. I've smoked so many drills over the years and they still keep running despite who knows how much of their lacquer turning into coal and noxious gasses. Even garbage tier chinese drill i bought for one grimy job that i would never subject proper power tools to is still alive despite ingesting all sorts of crap and getting smoked 4 or 5 times during the job (Lets just say i hated being there and didn't mind abusing the tools to get it over fast.).
I've got one of the 18v black & white LXT original series, used it daily for 5+ years, then changed jobs, and subsequently stuck it in my un-heated garage for the last 10ish years, and had recently took it out, to find it still had quite the charge...and still functions just like the day I bought it. Course, the second battery it came with hadn't fared well, as it failed about 8ish years ago.
I would guess the insulation in the magnet wire had a defect that allowed the motor to work but still allowed for a partial short that overheated and cooked the the entire coil.
These videos helped me have the confidence to take apart my 3/8” impact when it stopped working after a year and a half and know that the brushes needed cleaning, thank you!
"Uh, who knew?" Didn't I call this failure in the last vidjayo? I don't even own an electrical impact tool but I've seen enough motorb failures in my day. Oh, you want an *exact* reason for failure. I'm not totally sure but my best guesstimate might be repeated overheating which starts to cook the insulation off the motor coils. You see this failure on motors old and new regardless of usage or age.
I have a Makita impact driver that I use daily for 10 years. It's been through hell and back. The glow in the dark ring is long gone. The overmoulding is coming off. It's been dropped from a scissor lift. The forward and backwards switch is a bit stuff. That's it. I still use it. I think the trick is to take the thing apart when you first get it. Thanks for throwing a great tool brand under the bus.
Is it possible that there was some kind of manufacturing defect in the insulation of the wires? Maybe a bare spot where there was a heat build up which melted off the surrounding insulation etc etc.
I had the same happen on my Japan made makita 240v breaker. You can't overload it and yet the armature burnt out. I wonder if a failure in the control board could have caused it ?
Looked like a lot of dirt between the windings and stator. It could have caused enough drag to slow the motor down and made it overheat until the windings failed.
That laminated plate is supposed to have magnets attached to the inside edge of it. Is that black schmoo pulverised magnet juice? They don't seem particularly well shrouded- I could definitely see something cracking one and causing a steady deterioration in their condition, till the motor stalls and it lets the smoke out: www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-MAKITA-Yoke-Unit-638396-5-BTD130F-BTD134-BTD140-BTD142-BTD146-DTD152-/174205778787 Those weird/dimples, seems like they're just waiting to catch a bit of sand and break off a chip. What condition are the magnets in? Edit: realised grooves don't go all the way through
Would you mind going over why there are 2 different types of smoke? In the other video it is better to see, but there are 2 distinct smoke types coming out: First normal white smoke rising and one thicker darker yellowish smoke that pours out the air vents and sinks? Is the sinking one from the burning enamel and the white one just your everyday smoke of dying tool?
Sold with a drill driver, charger and 3 batterias in a set for basically the price of the batterias, for light duty. Bought by the wrong people, for the wrong applications then sent to impact driver heaven way to early.
I have lost motors on other products with a common failure mechanism. The varnish did not completely fill the motor and local heating while under heavy load would cause a short. The short-heating then becomes a cascade effect.
The drills that come in the combo kits with these are even worse. They run far too hot. My dealer tells me you can't push on the rear of the drill because it blocks the vents which makes them essentially useless as it's otherwise impossible to apply pressure to the drill. I always liked Makita, but this stuff is junk.
It also depends how you push on the rear. As long as you push with your flat hand the vents at the side are still free, if you wrap your hand completely around the rear all vents are blocked.
I love your attitude. -Normal person “hey smoke is bellowing out of the tool. I’m gonna stop”. -AVE “hey smoke started bellowing out. Interesting. I’m gonna keep trying. She done chooched her last”. Love it
my guess, some 200 pound gorilla covered up the vent holes with their hand while trying to push against the back of the drill. All that heat and nowhere to go
Question, failure point. Did you give her a hot supper then change bateria? I think on the lesser tools all temp cut out is run by the battery . So scenario, low battery, you give her some grief and battery says too hot and quits, you saw battery was close to flat, assume it was that, load in a new bank of cells and cook the windings. I've killed a cryobi that way.
If the motor is under-sized for the cooling, then all of these should be failing and Makita should have recalled them already. Further, CAD has included thermal modeling for years; it's a fundamental step in the design process. I wouldn't expect Harbor Freight to get it wrong on their cheapest tools, much less a premium brand.
Got myself a brushless combo pack of Black Makita impact and drill, had for almost 4 years now. Used extremely rough daily, I use the drill for hole saw cutting and impact for lag bolts, lug nuts, and tapping, can't believe both still work
You let the Magical Smoke out!!! Without that motivational substance to make the pixies spin around, there'll be no Chooch! Thank you so much for the alien drill autopsy. There's something about taking apart something to examine it's bitty bits that so relaxes me.
Had the same problem with a Makita angle grinder. I probably overload it but I expected some thermal protection. I had a Bosch grinder that I (ab)used the same way with no problems at all. Quite disappointing!
I was given a 4 tool combo kit (sold by Wally World) for Christmas last year. I didn't expect much from them, initially. The work light gets the most use, driver drill became the 'indoors' drill, booting the older 18v to the shop. The little impact driver has, so far, exceeded all expectations. I figured it would do as a nut/bolt driver, used after initially breaking the fastener loose with hand tools. I'd say that, so far, the need for that has been under 20%, the impact driver has done the rest of them entirely on it's own. And I found out I need to be careful with anything 3/8 or smaller when tightening, as I managed to strip out a few with it. I've also used it long enough for it to start getting hot, but after a few minutes to cool it behaved normally, without a quick return to sending out smoke signals. The jury is still out as far as longevity, but for periodic home use, I am surprised with how well they have performed
Did you need to modify the batter holder to accept the newer 5 Amp/hour battery? I've cooked one old drill and almost another using them with the newer style 5 amp/hour batteries.
My 3 year old Milwaukee M12 drill binded up when drilling and she smoked. I sent it to Milwaukee under warranty “they pay for shipping to them and back”. A week and a half later I get my drill back with a repair form at zero dollars and stating “courtesy replacement” they sent me a brand new bare tool drill in its retail box. Milwaukee is what I use and it’s all we use at work. Over the years I have sent them other power tools and chargers that have failed “the work ones take a beating”, every single one have been repaired or replaced at zero cost. No complaints here!!
You bought it brand new? From a non-sketchy vendor? Could it have been damaged by liquid or something else getting inside? I've had a "low grade" makita impact, same thing but white, for 8 years and its still working great. Original batteries too.
My work used to have two brushed Makita impacts (likely the same type) and both had total motor failures as seen here within a year-and-a-half. No good at all. The first sign of trouble was that the plastic shell would get unbearably hot to touch and got really soft and began to melt. With a plethora of Makita batteries, we switched to the brushless ones that chooch like no other. Run them all day and they stay about 40 degrees cooler than the brushed version. Best part is that the clutch and gearing are compatible from the old ones with the new one with a little 3D printed adaptor.
This is why I love my Milwaukee m12 fuel drill and impact driver. Brushless tools normally have a thermal shutoff to protect the ESC and the stator coils.
I work for a tool store, we have sold thousands of the dtd152 with a very low warranty rate. don't have any suggestions on what went wrong here but i could say with confidence its not a design fault.
Put it on the healing bench and see if it works again in 6 months or so! Er, on second thought, toss it. FWIW, I have had very good luck with Makita tools. I have one of those little vibrating 1/4 sheet palm sanders that I bought WAY back in 1982. The power cord is a bit frayed, but it continues to work - whatever insulation they used as the outer casing deteriorated after about 3 decades for some reason. (Though to be honest, once I bought a random orbital sander, I kind of only used the vibrating sander on more rare occasions, and disuse is often misuse, because you don't notice the need for maintenance.) Just an amateur handyman here, but my wife and I do invest in rental property, and for the past couple of decades, I have avoided inexpensive tools. Not up to the Hilti/Festool level (hell, I'm retired and can't even think about that!) but I'm into the high end prosumer/low-end pro tools. Ave, you have been instrumental over about the past six or so years, when I first found this channel, in providing an education on that evaluation of what to buy, along with the entertainment. Thanks!
So check another one perhaps now to see its state of crispy. If second unit seems to be in good condition still, no burning epoxy, could the dead unit have just had a bad winding from the start?
I have noticed the same from DeWalt and Milwaukee. If you use them for an extended period of time they get hot enough to fry eggs. I have had two DeWalt XR impacts die and one Milwaukee surge. I think it's the fact they keep making them "smaller". Everyone has to have the *Highest Torque* and *Bajillion RPMs*. So that much power in a tiny package is bound to overdo it. Brushless motors help with heat, but they'll give up the ghost too.
Just one question why not get a free replacement. In the UK they have to replace it if it goes wrong in 2 years. Then there is a fazed value over 6 years depending on use so if it goes wrong in 6 years you get a proportion of the price back. Its a legal right.
I expected it to be the windings from the look of the smoke but I admit I never thought about the over torque protection. I reckon they cheaped out on wire gauge. Not enough girth to carry the load.
You didn't mention whether the rotor windings were epoxy potted, what for protection against the harsh vibration caused by the hammer mechanism. A shorted wire would reduce the impedance of the winding and the increased current cook the entire lot.
Picked a dud, hey thays my luck. Very happy to hear you go through a tool again. Very articulate and well spoken. Tool description unlike any, anywhere. Makes for epic tool reviews
I've got one very similar thats almost exclusively been used with a 3/8 socket adapter and even changed tires on Toyotas used in underground mining, full of rust and crud, thrown around with little care in tool bags and mud and water for a couple years now with no issues. Maybe you guys treated it too nice, or hydraulic oil from split flange clamps is better for electronics than I thought?
Had the same smokey failure with a 4ah battery. Could it be that those batteries put out to much amps for the windings? 3ah and less seems to work better with that model.
Does a dc motor with laminated field like that require electronical trickery to start? Cant see how DC magnetic field in the rotor could induce field in stator to get things chooching.
i mean that motor might have a duty cycle, so even if you have a constant load it doesnt expect you to keep trying to take off the tractor/truck lug nuts for 5-10 minutes full tilt before getting the real impact
Damnit, i own a 14.4 old impact driver which still chooches. However the other day i bought one of their cordless grinders of which the clampshell opens when you twist the thing from front to back. It takes more than two tools to tango but is Makita crapping out on their quality then?
I've seen this driver a lot and have one myself, it's got a lot of grunt, but this thing is basically a handheld space heater. Gets so hot in heavy duty stuff the exhaust outflow can burn your hand. Chews through batteries like tater tots. I'm amazed mine hasn't gone up in smoke. I think the motor clearly has way too much amperage draw for the size of the tool and cooling setup, and it eventually it just cooks the insulation. Makita's homebrewed DC motors seem to have this issue, they are very powerful but it's really easy to cook them off, all of them get crazy hot.
My kobalt impact driver recently bit the dust after only a year of home only service. Took it back to Lowe's, without a box or a receipt and they swapped her right out. 👌 Got to love that 5-year warranty
i had a Makita combi drill that started getting really hot and smoking, so it took it apart and found the same sort of thing inside it as in the video, cleaned the rubbish out the motor and put it back together and its worked happy ever since. it looked as though the motor was full of thick black grease. Of course because i was using it i stopped as soon as i saw it was getting warm. pretty sure the model number is DHP482, its only a light duty drill that does get rather abused
Took ages to realize, but I looked up why Teal is so popular in JApan, and it turns out that it's historically a primary color. Originally Japanese had 2 colors, red, and Au (blue). Au referred to anything green, blue or in between. Now they have words for more colors, but the tradition of blue including some green carries on.
How dare you put that other Makita through the torture of disemboweling his own brethren. I'm frankly disgusted.
Job best left to DeWalt? huh..
Idk why but i had the same though xD
Examples must be made, otherwise they will all follow suit!
It's the only way they learn.
There is method in his madness - what lawyers call general deterrence, and the French call “pour encourager les autres”
There's almost something morbid about using one impact driver to dismantle another.
Fear will keep them in line!
thats because most creatures avoid eating their own. perfectly natural response
It’s like a chicken omelette. Cooked in a slurry of the young.
It's like dipping cooked chichen in a fried egg it feels wrong but oooooo boyyyy it tastes sso fucking righttttt
@@darknutgaming5510 It's in the bible. Exodus 23:19 "Do not cook a young chicken in its mother's egg.
Why only 4 months? Because this one wasn't BOLTR'd early in life. Sent to the mines like a child from the city.
This^^ I repair these for a living. Bought by a cheapskate on the internet, total mismatch for the intended use, burns up in no time but hey the right size costs twice the price. So let's blame Makita.
@@astranger448 It's weird how vendors succeeded in making the user's fault, when the crap they are selling dies because of usage. This is SCAM because it's absolutely not necessary. And there's no 'dies within weeks if used seriously, because despite the brand name this is crap!' label on that stuff.
@@astranger448 IKR, What kind of dumb butt would use this wonder of pacific engineering for something so crude as to drive a screw into pine wood?.....!
It was blocked pre-clutch: the dirt between the magnet and the rotor. Next, the airway was also blocked by the dirt and with reduced RPMs and the fan even pumping less cool air, it had a meltdown.
Agreed, the only motor I cooked like that was by powering it with double its rated voltage and putting on twice the load. Voltage is fine, but as he runs the drill you can see the light on the front dim, suggesting a very high (mechanical) load.
I doubt blocked preclutch. More like spent the day swished arround in a muddy puddle and the last 4 months around a dirty shop with loads of fero magnetic dust, you can see it coated the feild. The iron dust would of caused drag on the arm assy also wearing off the insulation causing more drag and poss short to ground
are you sure that dust wasn't actually ash from the burning insulation on the copper wire? if I buy a pro tool I expect it to function in shop conditions aka the fan can blow modest amounts of dust out from the tool. IDK, not really a makita fan anyways.
Not sure if that's dirt, or the pulverized remains of the magnets in the yoke, they're something black and uncoated, maybe a little chip get in and cracks one, which starts an avalanche of more and more debris till they're knackered to the point the motor stalls out and burns out.
The "sides" of the magnet don't seem to be well protected, could see some damage starting there and propagating inside
Long way of saying it got too hot.
Sometimes you just gotta put it down to it being made on a friday afternoon
Or a hungover Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday or Thursday.
Or the guy who just put in his two weeks notice lol.
James S exactly. Just like the fucktard that rebuilt my trucks engine. Conveniently told afterwards after lots of problems that he was on notice.
Is that a GM reference?
I had a land rover that I guess was made at 1550 on Friday because the fucker broke at every opportunity
Who knew? Makita smokes after screwing.
Yettee0201 but this one smoked WHILE screwing....herein lies the Mortal Sin.
Doesn't everyone?
@@kennethhicks2113 Hmmm....... not sure. I've never looked.
I found that a lack of lubricant leads to smoke during screwing (very uncomfortable)
Only the best do. ;)
With how much crap was stuck to the laminated magnet ring on that motor, I'm thinking someone ran it in a room full of metal shavings and abrasive dust until the enamel got worn off the motor windings.
I've taken apart some of my own dead tools that have been used for a decade doing HVAC and auto repair work to find less schmoo embedded in the magnet assembly.
May be a good idea to not let the kids run the tools in the pile of chips by the old bridgeport? or if you want a real "hard to pass" test, let them run every tool through the abrasive dust ingestion gauntlet.
Honestly it looks like it spent the night in a mud puddle next to the truck. The rust spots on the laminates match the bumps inside the casing, so water was held there for a while after the rest of her dried out. The gap between the rotor and stator probably got filled up with schmoo and because of the drag between them, couldn't develop enough torque to work the hammers. Then the motor stalls, coils heat up, and it sends out SOS smoke signals. They eventually melted together and the magnetic field decreases, making less torque and more heat and now it's in the bucket. Just my guess.
This, this seems like the most possible scenario.
He did burn off the isolation and that had to go somewhere. That is at least my guess for the source of the crap.
Same, im in hvac too and mine never looked like this one, although I take mine apart every six months to clean and relube everything. My makita is almost a decade old.
Yep, my thoughts exactly. If you keep having the same problems with tools, maybe it's you, not the tools
The magic smoke cannot be returned from whence it came.
That's what it did last time - getting out is the final escape. Peace at last.
Yeah i once inhaled it all and coughed it back in - Did. Not. Werk.
If you are going to use the word “whence”, the word “from” in front of it is redundant.
My life has been a lie. I shall crawl back under my rock.
quick sumbody call christfore nolan
01:14 You're making a Makita take apart another Makita.... You're some sick twisted individual.... I llike it.
I also bought one of the cheapo Chinese Makita knock-off impacts after you had made a video about those back in December. AND: It hasn't died yet!
@@jodeb0014 The Chinese one is genuine, too. A genuine knock-off.
Good to see you have good taste in fellow TH-camrs young man, as I've watched you both for some time now. I bet you two would make an excellent team, but that's only wishful thinking as the distance is too great for that to become reality.
Glad to see you out n about, stay safe n be well.
@@jodeb0014 Maybe they mixed up the genuine parts with the not so parts. . .
Maybe . . .
At least they read the same patents before they made it.
Happiness is seeing your favourite youtuber commenting on my other favourite. Good day indeed!
Project Farm did a head-to-head knock off vs. legit Makita and it was pretty dang interesting. The knock-off had a very noticeable lag from the trigger input to the driver. Bunch of other changes inside as well.
Damaged insulation on the windings shorted it out. Either a dud from factory or got some detritus in there that killed it.
I think it was the detritus. I think enough metallic particles built up on the magnets to physically stall the motor.
@@garywiens8625 the magnets stick out
I'm not sure how much of that "magnetic detritus" is the magnets themselves...
I’m betting one adjacent turn shorted to another and the whole unit ran out of spec and got hot every use, that would explain why it’s thoroughly cooked and not one obvious hotspot
You can't overload these like an RBMK can't explode.
Nice
Oof. Some would say that it's too soon, but it's been 34 years. The RBMK wiki page is kind of funny when it states: 10 operational, 1 destroyed, 9 cancelled, 7 decommissioned.
What a comment lol
She only let 3.6 smokes out. Not great, not terrible
The windings didn't melt. You're delusional
I've got the old version of this in the shop. Few months back the 3rd shift guy dropped it in a tank of 15% sulfuric acid and water. Fished it out, hosed it off, and kept using it. To this day it still works (battery died the next day). I even bought a bran new XDT16 to replace it and didn't even need to.
I'm surprized that it survived!
Probably needed a bath - the acid darrn well cleaned it right out.
I wouldn't say same, but I've had great experience with my makita. I've had mine for almost 10 yrs, dropped it off of 20 foot roofs multiple times and she still choochin.
@@kadmow A very quick dip will also clear a yeast infection.
@@jdhtyler OH SHITT !
As a Makita fan-boy, I am outraged at the existence of this video.
I too am furious. I demand a rematch!
No kidding! I still have a Makita cordless that’s over 20 years old hanging out in my shop. It hasn’t had a hot supper for years but it still worked the last time I picked it up and gave it the grill tong type test.
And how aboot the last one - where the tool smoked and stopped chooching. deesgusting!! (sic)
@@Norweeg stuff made 20 years ago isn't the same as the engineering firms who bought up all these tool brand names and farmed them out to the lowest chinese manufacturing plant.
@@JosephArata Nobody has bought out Makita like Milwaukee and dewalt have gotten bought out. Makita still owns Makita.
Nice. Taking apart a Makita, with a Milwaukee shockwave bit, driven by another Makita.
Mr. Worldwide
I bought those Shockwave bits after watching a project farm video. I got 7 for the same price as 20 Dewalt ones but based on the testing he did, they should last longer. I've been happy with them so far.
They are way better, thanks for pointing me to project farm.
I use milwaukee bits in my makita impact too
@@lukie4ever Same along with their impact bit holders and right angle adapter, Makita makes great power tools I wish their accessories were better. 🤷♂️
Many years ago an auto electrician friend working from a tiny loft made a living rewinding Citroen starter motors and alternators. They came new with a 12 month’s warranty from the factory. However, many failed around 13 or14 months, just outside their warranty period. Each winding failed in exactly the same spot. He proved it to me by showing me an alternator that was already stripped out of its housing and guaranteed that the one he was about to open would have failed in the same spot. Why would I ever have doubted him lol just like magic the winding had burnt out exactly where he showed me it would be. His explanation was simple, he believed a drop of corrosive acid at the prescribed strength had been dropped on each winding on the production line! Each guaranteed to fail outside of the warranty period. Your Makita motor brought these memories flooding back....thank you! Perhaps this old production trick to guarantee after sales for main distributors has not been lost on modern day battery tools?
3 years late, but found that a very interesting read!!
I've got either the same or similar model, I find when you trying to drive lots of posidrive screws I always push on the back to try and stop the bits camming out. After a while it gets red hot and you can feel it cooking through your gloves.
I found I have to do this a lot more with this impact driver as the speed control is not very progressive, it's to easy to give it full beans and tear out the screw head, vs my old Hitachi driver this was far more controllable. My bet is the guys have been leaning on the back and blocking the cooling.
I have also noticed that all drills have vents where I put my hands to press it down.
@@Rudy97 I keep a old dewalt dc988 and use it with a adaptor plate and new li-ion batteries as I have to push the back of my drill quite a lot when working, and its the last dewalt with good ventilation and handy rubber ribs on the back for getting a good grip of :)
@@Rudy97 yep when bearing down you gotta palm it with you fingers and thumb straight out, resist the urge to cup the back or you'll be shortening the drills lifespan. One thing we all learn for AvE is they sure don't make'em like they used to.
@@Rudy97 Not all drills. My 3 handled 600rpm Craftsman drill has the problem solved so you never block the holes. She's a beast in steel or concrete. If you are using a drill and you have to cover the holes to push more chances are you are using the wrong drill for the job and you should go up a size or three.
Yep, I found the same issue with mine... gets red hot
I have had mine for 6 years, changed the brushes three times still keeps screwing hard like boat load of sailors.
I sometimes feel like the limiting factor is the user, not how overbuilt the tool is. Some need a hilti to have a tool that lasts them more than two years, others get the same ammount of work done with a makita or bosch blue.
Ive used makita for the last ten years and cant really complain about anything. I am not a craftman who uses them all day every day, but I still got quite a bit of use out of them. The two grinders, one impact driver and 3 drills have built an entire stay for 1600 pigs, a big barn, put new roofs onto two other barns and done everything else that came up in the last few years.
The old batteries arent that great anymore and one of them failed, but we are talking about 10 years of use right here.
Maybe its just me, but I think there is quite a bit of tool snobbery going on.
@Spider's Morning Yeah has to be faulty winding or debris, that may even have been left there during assembly. I've smoked so many drills over the years and they still keep running despite who knows how much of their lacquer turning into coal and noxious gasses. Even garbage tier chinese drill i bought for one grimy job that i would never subject proper power tools to is still alive despite ingesting all sorts of crap and getting smoked 4 or 5 times during the job (Lets just say i hated being there and didn't mind abusing the tools to get it over fast.).
lot of pun masters in here lol.
I've got one of the 18v black & white LXT original series, used it daily for 5+ years, then changed jobs, and subsequently stuck it in my un-heated garage for the last 10ish years, and had recently took it out, to find it still had quite the charge...and still functions just like the day I bought it.
Course, the second battery it came with hadn't fared well, as it failed about 8ish years ago.
Plot twist: the sailor were still at sea for all their screwing.
Imagine having the initials NFG and putting that on all of your tools, they would never get stolen.
Newton Fairchild Godfrey
Now show how you put the magical smoke back in!
Takes a whole lot of time around the peace fire, even then there's no guarantees.
Better call Saul...or Aladdin.
Rewind the video that does the trick.
Someone needs Mufasa to explain how tools die.
Varnish and solder
I would guess the insulation in the magnet wire had a defect that allowed the motor to work but still allowed for a partial short that overheated and cooked the the entire coil.
These videos helped me have the confidence to take apart my 3/8” impact when it stopped working after a year and a half and know that the brushes needed cleaning, thank you!
@3:55 - "There's no surprises in the load..."
My UTI: "Hold my beer..."
Better than rectum damn near killed 'em!
I wondered when you were going to drop this video. I seen it give out in the last one... Figure this video was soon to come
Sorry for your loss AvE. 😭😜
Been running my DeWALT drill and impact driver for over 5 years now and still going strong.
"Uh, who knew?" Didn't I call this failure in the last vidjayo? I don't even own an electrical impact tool but I've seen enough motorb failures in my day.
Oh, you want an *exact* reason for failure. I'm not totally sure but my best guesstimate might be repeated overheating which starts to cook the insulation off the motor coils. You see this failure on motors old and new regardless of usage or age.
Yeah, good bet, partially cooked lacquer on the windings eventually leading to short(s) which lead to proper cooking her.
1:37 how would the brushes wear out on a brushless motor
Does Dewclaw know you've been screwing his keyless??
I have a Makita impact driver that I use daily for 10 years. It's been through hell and back. The glow in the dark ring is long gone. The overmoulding is coming off. It's been dropped from a scissor lift. The forward and backwards switch is a bit stuff. That's it. I still use it. I think the trick is to take the thing apart when you first get it. Thanks for throwing a great tool brand under the bus.
You keep your Sharpie tattoo longer, than some keep the real ones....😂😂🤣
Couldn't find the laser ablater... hmmm??
I was wondering what thats all about, its inna couple other vid too
AVE just got a new sleeve is all.
Is it possible that there was some kind of manufacturing defect in the insulation of the wires? Maybe a bare spot where there was a heat build up which melted off the surrounding insulation etc etc.
Makes sense that it was working and maybe rubbed through a bare spot then shorted and melted?
Either that or a chip got in there and nicked the insulation. Then it was only a matter of time until the pixies found the path of least resistance.
I had the same happen on my Japan made makita 240v breaker. You can't overload it and yet the armature burnt out.
I wonder if a failure in the control board could have caused it ?
ye gods, the smoke coming out of it! i wasnt expecting that haha
Hello Rinoa.
Rinoa's Auspicious Travails I subscribe to your channel too. It truly is a small TH-cam world!
Looked like a lot of dirt between the windings and stator. It could have caused enough drag to slow the motor down and made it overheat until the windings failed.
Loving the tattoo work. Didn't know you were a sailor!
That laminated plate is supposed to have magnets attached to the inside edge of it.
Is that black schmoo pulverised magnet juice?
They don't seem particularly well shrouded- I could definitely see something cracking one and causing a steady deterioration in their condition, till the motor stalls and it lets the smoke out:
www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-MAKITA-Yoke-Unit-638396-5-BTD130F-BTD134-BTD140-BTD142-BTD146-DTD152-/174205778787
Those weird/dimples, seems like they're just waiting to catch a bit of sand and break off a chip.
What condition are the magnets in?
Edit: realised grooves don't go all the way through
Whatcha vaping in that thing?
by the looks of the colour, blueberry ice cream.
Orange Screwdriver flavor
Makitas vape only the highest quality enamel paint!
"That gave up the ghost."
Hahahahaha
De geest gaf
The Dutch knowledge is deep.
Awesome as always
I actually like the “anti-theft” teal? Each to their own!
I love getting off work just to watch this channel!! Keep up the work bud!!
I love your new tattoos lol. Used to get covered in them from my niece and nephew to go with my 1 real 1.ThankQ.TkEZ>UK
I bet I’ve shared this channel hundreds of times, I’m gonna need some royalties...nah it’s so worth it!
Man I've left ryobi tools in the rain, dusted the piss out of them, and they are still going.
Would you mind going over why there are 2 different types of smoke? In the other video it is better to see, but there are 2 distinct smoke types coming out:
First normal white smoke rising and one thicker darker yellowish smoke that pours out the air vents and sinks?
Is the sinking one from the burning enamel and the white one just your everyday smoke of dying tool?
I have had a lot of luck with the high line Japanese Makita impact. There’s certainly a price difference though!
Sold with a drill driver, charger and 3 batterias in a set for basically the price of the batterias, for light duty. Bought by the wrong people, for the wrong applications then sent to impact driver heaven way to early.
I have lost motors on other products with a common failure mechanism. The varnish did not completely fill the motor and local heating while under heavy load would cause a short. The short-heating then becomes a cascade effect.
The drills that come in the combo kits with these are even worse. They run far too hot. My dealer tells me you can't push on the rear of the drill because it blocks the vents which makes them essentially useless as it's otherwise impossible to apply pressure to the drill. I always liked Makita, but this stuff is junk.
It also depends how you push on the rear. As long as you push with your flat hand the vents at the side are still free, if you wrap your hand completely around the rear all vents are blocked.
@@simonm1447 There aren't any vents on the side at all, that's the problem. It's just not designed for real world use.
@@94eg8h-t4 in this case it's a different one from mine. Mine has also vents at the rear, but also on the side.
My impact and drill combo are going 10years strong, and I use the impact like it’s a torque gun for dismantling car projects too.
I love your attitude. -Normal person “hey smoke is bellowing out of the tool. I’m gonna stop”. -AVE “hey smoke started bellowing out. Interesting. I’m gonna keep trying. She done chooched her last”. Love it
Never herd it "hammering" at the beginning of the vijho...
Was that the makita impact that you used against the fajita knock off that might explain the hot supper it got?
my guess, some 200 pound gorilla covered up the vent holes with their hand while trying to push against the back of the drill. All that heat and nowhere to go
Question, failure point. Did you give her a hot supper then change bateria? I think on the lesser tools all temp cut out is run by the battery . So scenario, low battery, you give her some grief and battery says too hot and quits, you saw battery was close to flat, assume it was that, load in a new bank of cells and cook the windings. I've killed a cryobi that way.
If the motor is under-sized for the cooling, then all of these should be failing and Makita should have recalled them already. Further, CAD has included thermal modeling for years; it's a fundamental step in the design process. I wouldn't expect Harbor Freight to get it wrong on their cheapest tools, much less a premium brand.
Got myself a brushless combo pack of Black Makita impact and drill, had for almost 4 years now. Used extremely rough daily, I use the drill for hole saw cutting and impact for lag bolts, lug nuts, and tapping, can't believe both still work
I meant to ask on the lighting vidjaya if you'd have peek under the petticoats to see what failed. I also see you're sporting some new Ink, nice work.
You let the Magical Smoke out!!! Without that motivational substance to make the pixies spin around, there'll be no Chooch! Thank you so much for the alien drill autopsy. There's something about taking apart something to examine it's bitty bits that so relaxes me.
"Now that is cookered"
Well yeah, the guy using it saw the smoke and held the trigger down anyway lol.
Well, isnt that what your supposed to do?
It ain't no better with "1/2 the magic smoke still in 'er"!
@@tl1024 Idk but if I was into ASMR I'd watch that thing smoke all day.
Why stop, and let it cool down, just to find it Did die. I say when it's time, let them die as vigorously as possible.
Drill holes for the fan on another, what do you stand to lose?
which part makes the magic smoke?
The magic part.
I always thought it was the wizard's widget. You couldn't find it before it broke but you're damn sure it turned to smoke.
Had the same problem with a Makita angle grinder. I probably overload it but I expected some thermal protection. I had a Bosch grinder that I (ab)used the same way with no problems at all. Quite disappointing!
Milwaukee man, this pleases me.
I was given a 4 tool combo kit (sold by Wally World) for Christmas last year. I didn't expect much from them, initially. The work light gets the most use, driver drill became the 'indoors' drill, booting the older 18v to the shop. The little impact driver has, so far, exceeded all expectations. I figured it would do as a nut/bolt driver, used after initially breaking the fastener loose with hand tools. I'd say that, so far, the need for that has been under 20%, the impact driver has done the rest of them entirely on it's own. And I found out I need to be careful with anything 3/8 or smaller when tightening, as I managed to strip out a few with it. I've also used it long enough for it to start getting hot, but after a few minutes to cool it behaved normally, without a quick return to sending out smoke signals.
The jury is still out as far as longevity, but for periodic home use, I am surprised with how well they have performed
The Last Chooch.
Did you need to modify the batter holder to accept the newer 5 Amp/hour battery? I've cooked one old drill and almost another using them with the newer style 5 amp/hour batteries.
looks like Makita marketing department are a little pissed off one thumb down bastards
My 3 year old Milwaukee M12 drill binded up when drilling and she smoked. I sent it to Milwaukee under warranty “they pay for shipping to them and back”. A week and a half later I get my drill back with a repair form at zero dollars and stating “courtesy replacement” they sent me a brand new bare tool drill in its retail box. Milwaukee is what I use and it’s all we use at work. Over the years I have sent them other power tools and chargers that have failed “the work ones take a beating”, every single one have been repaired or replaced at zero cost. No complaints here!!
Hmmm, makes me glad I bought the Borsch model!
You bought it brand new? From a non-sketchy vendor? Could it have been damaged by liquid or something else getting inside? I've had a "low grade" makita impact, same thing but white, for 8 years and its still working great. Original batteries too.
If ya found em cheap *there's a reason they were cheap*
How the hell does an impact driver even suffer a stallfry like that? Its supposed to never stall like a regular drill driver.
My work Makita impact is 2 years old going strong. I recommend the small batteries, lighter and they last quite a while on the impact.
My work used to have two brushed Makita impacts (likely the same type) and both had total motor failures as seen here within a year-and-a-half. No good at all. The first sign of trouble was that the plastic shell would get unbearably hot to touch and got really soft and began to melt. With a plethora of Makita batteries, we switched to the brushless ones that chooch like no other. Run them all day and they stay about 40 degrees cooler than the brushed version. Best part is that the clutch and gearing are compatible from the old ones with the new one with a little 3D printed adaptor.
This is why I love my Milwaukee m12 fuel drill and impact driver. Brushless tools normally have a thermal shutoff to protect the ESC and the stator coils.
did Dangar Stu send you that? He had one crap out a few weeks ago from Down Under
I work for a tool store, we have sold thousands of the dtd152 with a very low warranty rate. don't have any suggestions on what went wrong here but i could say with confidence its not a design fault.
Put it on the healing bench and see if it works again in 6 months or so! Er, on second thought, toss it. FWIW, I have had very good luck with Makita tools. I have one of those little vibrating 1/4 sheet palm sanders that I bought WAY back in 1982. The power cord is a bit frayed, but it continues to work - whatever insulation they used as the outer casing deteriorated after about 3 decades for some reason. (Though to be honest, once I bought a random orbital sander, I kind of only used the vibrating sander on more rare occasions, and disuse is often misuse, because you don't notice the need for maintenance.)
Just an amateur handyman here, but my wife and I do invest in rental property, and for the past couple of decades, I have avoided inexpensive tools. Not up to the Hilti/Festool level (hell, I'm retired and can't even think about that!) but I'm into the high end prosumer/low-end pro tools. Ave, you have been instrumental over about the past six or so years, when I first found this channel, in providing an education on that evaluation of what to buy, along with the entertainment. Thanks!
So check another one perhaps now to see its state of crispy. If second unit seems to be in good condition still, no burning epoxy, could the dead unit have just had a bad winding from the start?
I have noticed the same from DeWalt and Milwaukee. If you use them for an extended period of time they get hot enough to fry eggs. I have had two DeWalt XR impacts die and one Milwaukee surge. I think it's the fact they keep making them "smaller". Everyone has to have the *Highest Torque* and *Bajillion RPMs*. So that much power in a tiny package is bound to overdo it. Brushless motors help with heat, but they'll give up the ghost too.
Just one question why not get a free replacement. In the UK they have to replace it if it goes wrong in 2 years. Then there is a fazed value over 6 years depending on use so if it goes wrong in 6 years you get a proportion of the price back. Its a legal right.
I expected it to be the windings from the look of the smoke but I admit I never thought about the over torque protection.
I reckon they cheaped out on wire gauge. Not enough girth to carry the load.
Can you do a current comparison between hammer and impact drivers? Milwaukie, DeWalt and Hilti?
You didn't mention whether the rotor windings were epoxy potted, what for protection against the harsh vibration caused by the hammer mechanism. A shorted wire would reduce the impedance of the winding and the increased current cook the entire lot.
Picked a dud, hey thays my luck. Very happy to hear you go through a tool again. Very articulate and well spoken. Tool description unlike any, anywhere. Makes for epic tool reviews
Are you ever going to do a bolter on a brushless Milwaukee 1/2-in impact wrench or have you already and it's just on your only fans
I've got one very similar thats almost exclusively been used with a 3/8 socket adapter and even changed tires on Toyotas used in underground mining, full of rust and crud, thrown around with little care in tool bags and mud and water for a couple years now with no issues. Maybe you guys treated it too nice, or hydraulic oil from split flange clamps is better for electronics than I thought?
Had the same smokey failure with a 4ah battery. Could it be that those batteries put out to much amps for the windings?
3ah and less seems to work better with that model.
Does a dc motor with laminated field like that require electronical trickery to start? Cant see how DC magnetic field in the rotor could induce field in stator to get things chooching.
i mean that motor might have a duty cycle, so even if you have a constant load it doesnt expect you to keep trying to take off the tractor/truck lug nuts for 5-10 minutes full tilt before getting the real impact
Damnit, i own a 14.4 old impact driver which still chooches. However the other day i bought one of their cordless grinders of which the clampshell opens when you twist the thing from front to back. It takes more than two tools to tango but is Makita crapping out on their quality then?
Do you hold on to good old parts and cobble together tools swapping those parts?
Brushless motors last longer because of less friction created by the connection of the brush and the plate. Idk if that makes a difference.
What would ruin the insulation on those windings? They seem easy to access on an assembled unit.
I've seen this driver a lot and have one myself, it's got a lot of grunt, but this thing is basically a handheld space heater. Gets so hot in heavy duty stuff the exhaust outflow can burn your hand. Chews through batteries like tater tots. I'm amazed mine hasn't gone up in smoke. I think the motor clearly has way too much amperage draw for the size of the tool and cooling setup, and it eventually it just cooks the insulation. Makita's homebrewed DC motors seem to have this issue, they are very powerful but it's really easy to cook them off, all of them get crazy hot.
I bought the Fakita impact driver. The reverse switch doesn't fully engage and you need to pry sockets off with a screwdriver
I've several Makita tools including this one with no problems. How can I tell where it was made? 😡🇦🇺
My kobalt impact driver recently bit the dust after only a year of home only service. Took it back to Lowe's, without a box or a receipt and they swapped her right out. 👌 Got to love that 5-year warranty
So how does that laminated field work with no windings? is there Neodymium magnets embedded in there some how? I don't see it.
The insulation might have been cut by some engressing dust or small debris, then began to make ground?
i had a Makita combi drill that started getting really hot and smoking, so it took it apart and found the same sort of thing inside it as in the video, cleaned the rubbish out the motor and put it back together and its worked happy ever since. it looked as though the motor was full of thick black grease. Of course because i was using it i stopped as soon as i saw it was getting warm. pretty sure the model number is DHP482, its only a light duty drill that does get rather abused
Took ages to realize, but I looked up why Teal is so popular in JApan, and it turns out that it's historically a primary color. Originally Japanese had 2 colors, red, and Au (blue). Au referred to anything green, blue or in between. Now they have words for more colors, but the tradition of blue including some green carries on.