Another great video! I don't have a cable-controlled outboard now, (2014, fly-by-wire), but I still learn valuable 'how-to-do' information from your videos. Thank you for posting!
Been checking out your channel! Just saw the meaning behind your name & now I have even more respect. Thanks for the great channel. God Bless you guys.
AWESOME video! Going to use most of what was in it to change out my cables. My engines are Mercury 225 EFI's that were actually built by Yamaha back in 2004. The engine end of the cables have "barrel" type adjustments on them which cannot be removed. Those barrels stick out about an inch from the side of the cable, making it impossible to pull the barrels through the rigging tube. This is going to prevent me from being able to pull the new cables through using the old cables. Unless someone has a trick up their sleeve they're will to share, I'm going to have to tie a string to the helm end of the cable, then pull the old cables out from the back. Once the cables are all the way out and I have the string out the back of the rigging tube, I'll take the string off the old cable, tie it to the new cable, and then pull it all the way back in from the engine to the helm. Yee haa can't wait......
I agree, this was on my to do list on my power cat, previous owner used same length set of cables for both motors which meant very tight turns on port side. excellent channel... next on my list is steering hydraulics maintenance.
Oh yeah, definitely! Especially on a cat they usually have way longer cables on the port side, depending on where the control box is! Thank you, hope it goes well with your steering system :)
Another tip when pulling the me cable through would be to use a 10-32 coupling nut. Attach the new cable to the old cable using the coupling. Very slim setup and won't pull off
Awesome video,I was wondering if this would solve my issue,my motor just started to kinda grind at low rpm’s when going from reverse to forward when docking,and I’ve to rev up the engine to get it to move,what that may be?
2004 twin 150 yamaha 4 stroke, i have about 3/8 slop in cable, will new cables have less slop? Gears don't fully engage until i give throttle a little gas. Original cables in boat.
I have a single merc 225 2004, I haven't taken in apart yet. Any idea why I don't have a neutral detent, and more importantly why does my throttle lever actually touch the panel? It's going past 90 degrees. Also seems like I'm not getting full throttle.
Great video! Wish I had watched the video before starting the job it would have made this task a lot easier. I only replaced one cable vs replacing both. I have everything reinstalled, but I'm having trouble with the throttle adjustment. When I engage the throttle in the forward position it's very stiff, while reverse is super easy. Thoughts?
At least you got it done! Partially :/ um it's hard to say, take the cables off and get the shift and throttle cables in position, then adjust the cable ends to just slide on. Is the throttle cable the one you didnt change? If it is, you'll need to change it :(
For sure! It helps to keep from bending the ends of the cable too, because that happens quite often when there are really tight rigging tubes and turns in the rigging :)
Thank you for your question! Please post it in our Born Again Boating Community! Go here and scroll down to access - it’s free: www.bornagainboating.com/
Greetings! Rose here, expressing gratitude for your comment! However, I'm unable to address your specific question, but I have saved it to be answered in more details on our podcast channel in an upcoming episode. Click the link below to subscribe if you haven't already🙏 www.youtube.com/@TheBoatersPodcast
I recently replaced both throttle and shifting cable. Mi only issue is that my shifting is kinda hard to put into forward and reverse. Do I need to adjust my shifting cable again?
That's possible, just slip the cable off the shift mechanism and then put the shifter directly in neutral. Probably be a good idea to make sure it shifts easily without the cable on just in case the shift shaft is sticking on the engine. Of not, just adjust the cable so it slides right on and tighten it up. Also make sure there isn't any really tight bends in the cable. You want large smooth turns so it doesnt strain the cable and make it stiff! Thank you for commenting let us know how it turns out!
I have watched this the whole video to find what I was looko g for in the comments. I am facing the same problem only it's very stiff to shift. The cable does move freely when disconnected and so does the engine shift too. I'm going to try to adjust the cables and check for small loops. Anything else I should look out for ? Thanks for the comments
Hi, I’ve just re-installed control cables on a 1998 Yamaha 200 two-stroke using this method however the throttle cable doesn’t seem to pull back the carbs into idle (it sits in neutral at 2000+ rpm). I can clearly see the problem: there is a somewhat circular black plastic disk that has an arrow on it where it should align to the carb lever on idle however this disk is not being pulled back enough. Is there a spring of some sort that should be pulling the throttle into idle? I realise the carbs themselves have springs and they seem to be fine.
Thanks for the videos. Is it hard to use yamaha 704 controls and cables with a Mercury type outboard? I know that's vague, so its a general question, but having to switch from a yamaha outboard to mercury, boat has a 704 setup. Thanks in advance!
I think you can get adapters but I can't remember. Haven't had to do something like that for a long time. Did that like 7 or 8 years ago with an optimax and I can't remember if there was an adapter that goes on the engine, I think there was. Because the cables are definitely different. You might not be able to get adapters anymore and have to change out the control box :(
@@BornAgainBoating Thanks for the reply! What I have found out is that Yamaha and Mercury cables and controls are fairly universal, they do make barrel/end connectors you can change out. Teleflex and Sea Star apparently provide a lot of those types of parts. Not sure if I want to tackle another project like this right now, but at least it's good to know. I spent quite a bit of time on the net via forums, it's amazing what you can't find out there to help, just like ya'lls videos!
Is it possible to lube cable to avoid having corrosion within the cable run? I know with the small engine and aviation stuff pressure lubing is possible to avoid binding.
Technically you could do these cables with ATF and pressure them the same way. But for the time it takes to pull them out vs the cost of new cables, it's not worth it :/
I'd like to make one but haven't gotten a chance yet. Sorry about that. Here's a video that gives a pretty good explanation of the Mercury CAN network and how that operates: th-cam.com/video/b9Y6WIikRsE/w-d-xo.html&t=
Hello! I'm sorry but as of right not we don't have anything with that engine. It's possible we will in the future, what kind of technical service are you looking for?
@@BornAgainBoating Hello! I am interested in oil change, filter change, their names. Any work that connects to this engine. And maybe you can advice me some online places (shops..) where you buy spare parts. Thank you.
@serzh serzh Sorry, I didn't see you replied, this got buried in the comments! You can buy parts from Amazon.com or Boats.net they are good online places. I'm not sure about how well that works with shipping to Russia though :/ I will work on getting a video with a similiar engine service up. It may be a few months though, it's summer here and I don't have as much time to make the videos, one a week is about all I can get out right now, sorry about that :)
I am getting a clunk noise in neutral. I think i am on the right track with this video. If anyone has this issue i will post a follow up to the fix on my channel.
Traductor de google. Hello good day. Greetings from Panama. I have a Mercury twins model SaldWater 2-stroke 2.5 liters carbureted. The control levers are somewhat hard and it costs a bit to move them. I do not see any external or obvious damage to the control cable. Is there any way to lubricate them or to make them softer? or they should replace. Thanks for your comments, successes and greetings. (Hola buenos días. saludos desde Panamá. Tengo un twins Mercury modelo SaldWater 2-stroke 2.5 litros carburado. Las palancas de control están algo duras y cuesta un poco moverlas. No veo daño externo o evidente al cable de control. ¿Hay alguna forma de lubricarlas o para que sean más suaves? o se denben reemplazar. Gracias por tus comentarios, éxitos y saludos.)
Hello! Most likely it is the control cables. You can disconnect them from the engine and see how hard they are to move. As well as shift the engine, at the engine, with the cables disconnected. This will help see if the cables are the problem. There isn't really a way to lube the cables though. If you don't have a way to replace them or the money to replace them. You can pull them out and then try and soak them in ATF fluid to see if that helps. Otherwise just replacing them is the way to go!
I have twin verados 300 I changed all four batteries they were due I was getting a shift failure on the starboard engine when I was toggling in and out of gear the motor would shut down I would have to restart I was told low voltage can cause shift errors any ideas
Hey @Vincent Trapani sounds more like the shift actuator is starting to fail. Swap the shift actuator from the port engine to the starboard and the starboard to the port. Then just use the boat as normal and see if the issue comes back. If the issue goes to the port then you know it's the actuator! :) Good luck, let me know how it goes!
@@vincenttrapani6331 yes, just take off both cowlings and then tilt the engine forward a little bit. There are two 10 mm bolts in the front holding the plastic piece on with the rigging coming through it. Just take those out and you can lay the piece to the side with all of the rigging without having to disconnect anything. Then turn the keys off and there is a 12 mm bolt holding the shift actuator to the shift arm. Take that out, they are usually super tight so with the keys off you can disconnect the actuator and then run it in so you can break the bolt free and take it out. Then there is just a pin on the other side that you take out and pull the actuator out. Just dont spin the end of the actuator when you have it out, pull it out, set it to the side and then pull out the other and put it back on without moving the spindle. Should only take you about an hour if not less!
Born Again Boating ok ready for this swapped the actuators the problem didn’t go to the other engine I’m still getting a malfunction error but the engine doesn’t go into that mode that I have to shut key off and restart
@@vincenttrapani6331 that's good. So now the next thing to try is to see how easy that engine is to shift. Sorry, I should have mentioned this earlier, but with that 12 mm bolt off of the shift mechanism, see if you can shift the engine by hand. There is a white bushing in the bottom of the engine pan where the shift shaft goes down. Sometimes that gets build up there and makes the shifting really hard. To the point where the shift actuator can't push the shift mechanism and gives you the alarms. Try squirting oil onto it and moving it back and forth by hand to free it up if it is stuck. That could be the problem
Yes, it's pretty normal to just change them all at the same time since you've got the control box open, all the zip ties cut out and are pulling it through. Otherwise it's like paying double for the labor next year or so when the other one goes out :) Shifting should be pretty smooth. A lot of people like to shift slowly and that makes it clunky and actually harder. You want to kind of "pop" it into gear so that way it's a quick instant shift. Most engines now a days have a shift cut off switch so it slows the engine for a quick instant to relieve the pressure on the clutch dog that's in the lower unit.
You can wash out the engine without doing any damage. Just lightly spray off the engine, I wouldn't stand there and hold the water hose spraying the computer or anything like that. But you can spray the engine down with some degreaser and then hose it off. That won't harm anything. You shouldn't have to cover the electrical connectors, as long as you aren't just spraying directly on them for a long time.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 84 วันนี้!! คู่เอก "ก้องศึก vs เมืองไทย"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3kuzsAIDf1c/mqdefault.jpg)
Another great video! I don't have a cable-controlled outboard now, (2014, fly-by-wire), but I still learn valuable 'how-to-do' information from your videos. Thank you for posting!
Thank you!
Nice work, clear instructions, and visuals.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for such a great video. It goes to the point with clear explanation.
Been checking out your channel! Just saw the meaning behind your name & now I have even more respect. Thanks for the great channel. God Bless you guys.
Thank you! God Bless You Brother!
AWESOME video! Going to use most of what was in it to change out my cables. My engines are Mercury 225 EFI's that were actually built by Yamaha back in 2004. The engine end of the cables have "barrel" type adjustments on them which cannot be removed. Those barrels stick out about an inch from the side of the cable, making it impossible to pull the barrels through the rigging tube. This is going to prevent me from being able to pull the new cables through using the old cables. Unless someone has a trick up their sleeve they're will to share, I'm going to have to tie a string to the helm end of the cable, then pull the old cables out from the back. Once the cables are all the way out and I have the string out the back of the rigging tube, I'll take the string off the old cable, tie it to the new cable, and then pull it all the way back in from the engine to the helm. Yee haa can't wait......
I agree, this was on my to do list on my power cat, previous owner used same length set of cables for both motors which meant very tight turns on port side. excellent channel... next on my list is steering hydraulics maintenance.
Oh yeah, definitely! Especially on a cat they usually have way longer cables on the port side, depending on where the control box is! Thank you, hope it goes well with your steering system :)
really enjoying these short vids on boat motors
Thank you!
Fantastic video! Extremely helpful and efficient!
Another tip when pulling the me cable through would be to use a 10-32 coupling nut. Attach the new cable to the old cable using the coupling. Very slim setup and won't pull off
Wow, what a great video, and tip by you! I pulled both cables at once using this method! Thank you!
Haha knew you wouldn't leave me hanging. Had our first outing today and broke the throttle cable
Awesome video,I was wondering if this would solve my issue,my motor just started to kinda grind at low rpm’s when going from reverse to forward when docking,and I’ve to rev up the engine to get it to move,what that may be?
Did you/ should you use original equipment cables?
2004 twin 150 yamaha 4 stroke, i have about 3/8 slop in cable, will new cables have less slop? Gears don't fully engage until i give throttle a little gas. Original cables in boat.
Outstanding work !!
Thank you!
I have a single merc 225 2004, I haven't taken in apart yet. Any idea why I don't have a neutral detent, and more importantly why does my throttle lever actually touch the panel? It's going past 90 degrees. Also seems like I'm not getting full throttle.
Thanks guys. Gonna fix my throttle levers today they creep like crazy!
Your welcome! Awesome! I saw you guys caught a bunch of fish the other day! Congrats!
Thanks. My little guy was slaying the vermillion snapper. LOL
Great technical videos.
thank you!
Great video! Wish I had watched the video before starting the job it would have made this task a lot easier. I only replaced one cable vs replacing both. I have everything reinstalled, but I'm having trouble with the throttle adjustment. When I engage the throttle in the forward position it's very stiff, while reverse is super easy. Thoughts?
At least you got it done! Partially :/ um it's hard to say, take the cables off and get the shift and throttle cables in position, then adjust the cable ends to just slide on. Is the throttle cable the one you didnt change? If it is, you'll need to change it :(
Thanks for sharing this I’m going to change mine 130 ocean pro wish me luck thanks again
Very helpful video instruction, thank you 🙏
You are welcome!
Great video! Gonna save me some cash!!
Good luck!
Nice never thought to attach the old cable and new cable together and feed them through.
For sure! It helps to keep from bending the ends of the cable too, because that happens quite often when there are really tight rigging tubes and turns in the rigging :)
great video
Great video thanks!
Thanks for the video. I learn an awful lot from your channel.
Great video
Thank you!
My twin engine throttle not aligned what to do? Also what is the reference while crossing? The RPM gauge for both engines ?
Thank you for your question! Please post it in our Born Again Boating Community! Go here and scroll down to access - it’s free: www.bornagainboating.com/
Could you show a inboard trodle for four cycinder
1974 iron doug
in the control box which cable goes to the throttle and which goes to shifting gears
Greetings! Rose here, expressing gratitude for your comment! However, I'm unable to address your specific question, but I have saved it to be answered in more details on our podcast channel in an upcoming episode.
Click the link below to subscribe if you haven't already🙏
www.youtube.com/@TheBoatersPodcast
Excellent!
Thank you!
Thanks. Well done gents. That was a perfect install video.
I recently replaced both throttle and shifting cable. Mi only issue is that my shifting is kinda hard to put into forward and reverse. Do I need to adjust my shifting cable again?
That's possible, just slip the cable off the shift mechanism and then put the shifter directly in neutral.
Probably be a good idea to make sure it shifts easily without the cable on just in case the shift shaft is sticking on the engine.
Of not, just adjust the cable so it slides right on and tighten it up.
Also make sure there isn't any really tight bends in the cable. You want large smooth turns so it doesnt strain the cable and make it stiff!
Thank you for commenting let us know how it turns out!
I have watched this the whole video to find what I was looko g for in the comments. I am facing the same problem only it's very stiff to shift. The cable does move freely when disconnected and so does the engine shift too. I'm going to try to adjust the cables and check for small loops. Anything else I should look out for ? Thanks for the comments
Hi, I’ve just re-installed control cables on a 1998 Yamaha 200 two-stroke using this method however the throttle cable doesn’t seem to pull back the carbs into idle (it sits in neutral at 2000+ rpm). I can clearly see the problem: there is a somewhat circular black plastic disk that has an arrow on it where it should align to the carb lever on idle however this disk is not being pulled back enough. Is there a spring of some sort that should be pulling the throttle into idle? I realise the carbs themselves have springs and they seem to be fine.
You want to take the throttle cable off and make sure that it is operating normally and maybe your adjustment is probably in the cable.
Whats the relay for inside the binnacle? Theres one on each side.
Thats the neutral safety switch, it makes it so that the engine won't turn over unless the handles are in neutral
Merci beaucoup ❤❤❤❤❤❤
Thanks for the videos. Is it hard to use yamaha 704 controls and cables with a Mercury type outboard? I know that's vague, so its a general question, but having to switch from a yamaha outboard to mercury, boat has a 704 setup. Thanks in advance!
I think you can get adapters but I can't remember. Haven't had to do something like that for a long time. Did that like 7 or 8 years ago with an optimax and I can't remember if there was an adapter that goes on the engine, I think there was. Because the cables are definitely different. You might not be able to get adapters anymore and have to change out the control box :(
@@BornAgainBoating Thanks for the reply! What I have found out is that Yamaha and Mercury cables and controls are fairly universal, they do make barrel/end connectors you can change out. Teleflex and Sea Star apparently provide a lot of those types of parts. Not sure if I want to tackle another project like this right now, but at least it's good to know. I spent quite a bit of time on the net via forums, it's amazing what you can't find out there to help, just like ya'lls videos!
Is it possible to lube cable to avoid having corrosion within the cable run? I know with the small engine and aviation stuff pressure lubing is possible to avoid binding.
Technically you could do these cables with ATF and pressure them the same way. But for the time it takes to pull them out vs the cost of new cables, it's not worth it :/
hey just purchased a used23 ft cobia and has fuel tank full stale fuel? who do i contact to get rid of this fuel?
Depending on where you live, google fuel tank pump out, or oil disposing companies near me
Thanks again
Thank you!
do suzuki throttles have the same bolts on them to keep friction on the trottle because mine has been slipping back and losing rpm at speed.
Can you do a video of verado complete rig from binnacle to the engine?
I'd like to make one but haven't gotten a chance yet. Sorry about that. Here's a video that gives a pretty good explanation of the Mercury CAN network and how that operates: th-cam.com/video/b9Y6WIikRsE/w-d-xo.html&t=
Do you happen to know the kit for a whole mechanical remote steering kit for a f70?
I don't sorry
Good afternoon! I am from Russia. I have mercury 60 efi 2007. Do you have any video, where you have technical service
Hello! I'm sorry but as of right not we don't have anything with that engine. It's possible we will in the future, what kind of technical service are you looking for?
@@BornAgainBoating Hello! I am interested in oil change, filter change, their names. Any work that connects to this engine. And maybe you can advice me some online places (shops..) where you buy spare parts. Thank you.
@serzh serzh Sorry, I didn't see you replied, this got buried in the comments! You can buy parts from Amazon.com or Boats.net they are good online places. I'm not sure about how well that works with shipping to Russia though :/ I will work on getting a video with a similiar engine service up. It may be a few months though, it's summer here and I don't have as much time to make the videos, one a week is about all I can get out right now, sorry about that :)
I am getting a clunk noise in neutral. I think i am on the right track with this video. If anyone has this issue i will post a follow up to the fix on my channel.
Traductor de google.
Hello good day. Greetings from Panama. I have a Mercury twins model SaldWater 2-stroke 2.5 liters carbureted. The control levers are somewhat hard and it costs a bit to move them. I do not see any external or obvious damage to the control cable. Is there any way to lubricate them or to make them softer? or they should replace. Thanks for your comments, successes and greetings. (Hola buenos días. saludos desde Panamá. Tengo un twins Mercury modelo SaldWater 2-stroke 2.5 litros carburado. Las palancas de control están algo duras y cuesta un poco moverlas. No veo daño externo o evidente al cable de control. ¿Hay alguna forma de lubricarlas o para que sean más suaves? o se denben reemplazar. Gracias por tus comentarios, éxitos y saludos.)
Hello! Most likely it is the control cables. You can disconnect them from the engine and see how hard they are to move. As well as shift the engine, at the engine, with the cables disconnected. This will help see if the cables are the problem. There isn't really a way to lube the cables though. If you don't have a way to replace them or the money to replace them. You can pull them out and then try and soak them in ATF fluid to see if that helps. Otherwise just replacing them is the way to go!
@@BornAgainBoating GRACIAS ! tomaré tu consejo y veré que ocurre. THANK YOU ! I will take your advice and see what happens.
I have twin verados 300 I changed all four batteries they were due I was getting a shift failure on the starboard engine when I was toggling in and out of gear the motor would shut down I would have to restart I was told low voltage can cause shift errors any ideas
Hey @Vincent Trapani sounds more like the shift actuator is starting to fail. Swap the shift actuator from the port engine to the starboard and the starboard to the port. Then just use the boat as normal and see if the issue comes back. If the issue goes to the port then you know it's the actuator! :) Good luck, let me know how it goes!
Can it be done in the water I have no trailer
@@vincenttrapani6331 yes, just take off both cowlings and then tilt the engine forward a little bit. There are two 10 mm bolts in the front holding the plastic piece on with the rigging coming through it.
Just take those out and you can lay the piece to the side with all of the rigging without having to disconnect anything.
Then turn the keys off and there is a 12 mm bolt holding the shift actuator to the shift arm. Take that out, they are usually super tight so with the keys off you can disconnect the actuator and then run it in so you can break the bolt free and take it out.
Then there is just a pin on the other side that you take out and pull the actuator out.
Just dont spin the end of the actuator when you have it out, pull it out, set it to the side and then pull out the other and put it back on without moving the spindle. Should only take you about an hour if not less!
Born Again Boating ok ready for this swapped the actuators the problem didn’t go to the other engine I’m still getting a malfunction error but the engine doesn’t go into that mode that I have to shut key off and restart
@@vincenttrapani6331 that's good. So now the next thing to try is to see how easy that engine is to shift.
Sorry, I should have mentioned this earlier, but with that 12 mm bolt off of the shift mechanism, see if you can shift the engine by hand.
There is a white bushing in the bottom of the engine pan where the shift shaft goes down. Sometimes that gets build up there and makes the shifting really hard.
To the point where the shift actuator can't push the shift mechanism and gives you the alarms. Try squirting oil onto it and moving it back and forth by hand to free it up if it is stuck.
That could be the problem
Nice vide
Thank you!
Is it beneficial to do both the control and throttle cable at the same time? How smooth should shifting from neutral into gear?
Yes, it's pretty normal to just change them all at the same time since you've got the control box open, all the zip ties cut out and are pulling it through. Otherwise it's like paying double for the labor next year or so when the other one goes out :)
Shifting should be pretty smooth. A lot of people like to shift slowly and that makes it clunky and actually harder. You want to kind of "pop" it into gear so that way it's a quick instant shift.
Most engines now a days have a shift cut off switch so it slows the engine for a quick instant to relieve the pressure on the clutch dog that's in the lower unit.
I ask you can you wash the outboard
Yes, absolutely!
you recommend wash and cover the electrical connectors or not
You can wash out the engine without doing any damage. Just lightly spray off the engine, I wouldn't stand there and hold the water hose spraying the computer or anything like that. But you can spray the engine down with some degreaser and then hose it off. That won't harm anything. You shouldn't have to cover the electrical connectors, as long as you aren't just spraying directly on them for a long time.
Born Again Boating thanks you for your time and answer
@@williamcollejo4418 no worries, Thank you!