I had an 89 Berreta with the same passive restraint system. Government regulations were going in requiring a passive restraint system for front seat passengers. Auto makers didn't have to use airbags, per se, but a system that automatically protected front seat passengers. This was GMs version. You could leave the seatbelts latched all the time, and still get in and out of the car. When you opened the door, the seat belts would release and you could get out. When you were driving and hit the brakes, or the car slowed down abruptly, the speed sensor reading would be used to tension the belts. It was a clumsy system, and everyone would just unlatch the seatbelts anyway. When airbags became more common, this system disappeared. Great videos, BTW!
FYI, My brother is a phone tech. I have brought some of his tech tools over to the auto side. I have been using a tone box and wand to follow the noise in the wire. I have had success in some cases following wires in search of those mysterious modules. Or the ones that are not listed/wrong locations. Great job your doing, refresh and learn new stuff all the time from your videos.
Used to get those when I worked at the Buick dealer. The system was designed so you could get in and out of the vehicle without taking your seat belt off. Thought that was a pretty interesting system myself. I remember getting burnt a couple of times by those solenoids when doing window motors. The solenoids would stay on and get hot with the door open. Never seen a module go bad on one though. Good catch and great video.
Excellent man I really admire your work great job.No One shows passion and interest on you tube like you do to go to extremes to impart such a great knowledge to students.great work
Wow! Another Great Video! Most Techs would’ve giving up & gave it a mediocre fix! You’re definitely thorough & complete! I will not be buying that vehicle any time soon! Lol! But seriously as it has been said, “Its always Impossible Until It’s Done!” Only you Paul could do this! Much Respect!
Great use of the Vantage!! Loved the different methods of testing parasitic draw. Amp clamp around that wire loom. Also and especially the millivolt reading on the fuse conductors!
My immediate thought was (based on the stereo installation) that the module got cooked when he nicked “that wire”. This was “one of those cases “ that seems to have many contributing factors. Hard to nail down by interesting (and educational) to watch (even at 2:20am lol)
Superb videos, no way I could have skipped any part of them. Good work diagnosing bad charger leads too - probably saved someone from an injury right there. Great job and thanks for a great case study.
Why go to the movies when we got Scanner Danner?!? Fire up some popcorn and enjoy! Agree with others - your best field trip yet, Paul! Thanks for taking us along! I'll be recommending this excursion to others.
Terrific diagnostics! Great series on finding the defective passive restraint module failure. I definitely learned something more about parasitic draw testing. Thank you Paul
I found this video interesting because when I was trying to find a parasitic draw on our 94 Cavalier, I was dealing with a lot of the same components on the circuit that was drawing as you were. Mine was at the CTSY fuse and messing with the negative battery cable at the negative battery post gave me the same sounds that you experienced. I thought it was my power lock switches as well. The CTSY circuit on my car also dealt with the door latch switches which I also could never find. I also could not find the low oil level sensor. Mine problem turned out to be the trunk light harness that was causing the draw. I just unplugged it for now since it's not important to have. I will look at it more later after the weather gets better to see if the harness has a cut in it that could have been grounding out. This draw would cause the car's battery to go dead about every 7 days even when the car was driven 5 days out of the 7.
I also forgot to mention that our car also had the seat belt retractors inside the door and had the same two retractors with the same black and yellow wires going to it.
Way to go Paul! Watched the 3.1 series. I'm impressed. Reminds me of when I was going down the freeway in my 90 Deville. Suddenly the car shut off, speedometer jumped to 85 and I lost all accessory power. Being newer I didn't look at things systematically like I should have. I did find the fix a few dollars later, turns out the primary wire from my ign. switch to my coil (inside the distributor) shorted out against the engine and fried a fusible link... Watching this reminded me of that (I think it was the way that dash looked). Keep up the good videos!!
It's good that you guys don't give up as easily as most places. A good thing that the EPROM chip was not damaged along with the computer I don't know if it would be possible to find one of those anymore.
These are great videos! Maybe, some of your best yet! This series shows just what can happen as we work on our vehicles. Even with your skills and equipment, car repair isn't always quick and/or simple. You covered so many important points for us: Vehicle history, bad or missing diagrams, customer information, making sure our test instruments are properly connected, etc! Fine job! Keep the good info coming!
and for a truly hilarious part 4, the phone conversation with two or three different parts guys, when you tell them you need that PR module on a 1993 anything...
The solenoids would hold the pendulum still so opening the door would not cause them to grab the seatbelt. Once the door was closed the pendulums had to be allowed to move so they could lock the seatbelt in an accident. The VSS input was there to override the door latch switches so that if you started driving the car it would automatically release the solenoid so that the seatbelts could work. It would ignore the door lock switch input with vehicle speed.
My Bronco II cranks but no spark, my techs changed parts first then tried to diagnose to NO avail lol, having them tow it to house I got factory wiring diagrams on way, hopefuly i can do as good as u guys, grt work, appreciate it! jim in NC
i think i figured it out. When he clipped the harness, the wire cutters or scissors caused a momentary short to power, that backfed through the chime module, cruise module, or instrument cluster, that drk green wire is in the diagram is dotted meaning other things are connected to it, like the chime module, there are many drk green wires running to the radio but i dont think they are the same, the old pcm might of had more clues had it not exploded
Hi Paul. They use the term passive restraint because it doesn't require any action from the driver. The way that system works is you're supposed to leave the seat belt latched all the time. The driver is supposed to slide in and out underneath the seat belt that's already latched. The problem with that design is when you open the door the pendulum in the seatbelt it would cause the seatbelts to lock .
Hey ScannerDanner, I wish I could go to your automotive school...I am stuck with my local community college for auto motive tech. I have watched a few of your videos and already love them. I am using them to help me learn diagnostics and such. Keep up the awesome work!
I'm surprised that you didn't think about the VSS in relation to the latch switch. Think about it. In modern cars when you reach a certain speed the doors lock. Perhaps they weren't as sophisticated back then and instead simply prevented the door handle from being used after a certain speed. A VSS controlled "lock in" design. Think that is possible from what you saw? That's all I could think of. Nice to see you struggle once in a while. If you aren't frustrated you aren't learning!
Just out of passing interest, we have a 08 Honda Fit that has a VSS input to the radio. (The radio has an auto volume up/down adjust feature to compensate for road noise.) Maybe this has something similar, and in the act of radio wire chopping B+ was sent down the VSS and zapped the module?
Another great video, showing the real world issues we can come up against. I am liking frosty9595's idea about speed sensitive volume control, would be nice to see if the radio control module is linked to the speed signal circuit! A full conclusion as to the cause might result. Thanks Paul, a really interesting three parter.
I once had an 89 blazer mfg date 9 - 89. To find any parts that would fit it I had to use 88, 89, or 90 and compare the three to find the right part. It reminded me of that Johnny Cash Cadillac song, One piece at a time. Damn thing ran for 25+ years though with only the expected part replacements. Not one major item at all. Jpol.
You should save that module as a example for the next time your talking about transistor drivers in a ecm - ecu. That black 3 pin square - rectangle item mounted to the aluminum heat sink is a transistor it has the Base collector and emitter
I realize this is an old video, but I've found that shopkey/Mitchell is sometimes limited on diagrams for older vehicles. Where Alldata has a few more. I found the diagram for the seatbelt system that shows the switches and solenoids. As well as some system explanation.
So when you heard the noise in the door as you pulled and replaced the fuse, couldn't you have whipped off tge door panel and then using the Power probe ECT device sent a radio signal back along the yellow wire and traced the module. I know it wouldn't have given you the vehicle speed being along the green wire, but after finding it fast you could say well there's power and ground so very likely module damaged.
i've watched this video before but my brothers 93 cavalier is doing the exact same thing maybe a little late but i hope that fella did not drive that car without that module as he wont have proper working seat belts....the 93 cavalier was controlled by a chime module..the door latches/handles are wired at the door latch to illuminated the vehicle when puled up on Scanner Danner you are right about the solonoids allowing doors to be opened with belts still attached
looks like there is some burnt out print on the pcb of the control module, at the top left hand corner of the pcb pause video at 41.58 . I could be wrong, it might be a shadow Great video
I had a Grand Cherokee come into the shop, don't remember the year, it had a parasitic draw, traced it down to the door ajar switch, even using a wiring diagram it took me 4 hours plus to track it down, I do not recall if their was a door ajar lamp illuminated on the dash either.
Alldata lists the wiring diagram as "Seat belt system" for 1993 Buick Regal. The interesting thing is that they also have the exact same location description. GM must assume that is enough info to go on.
I know it didn't have anything to do with what was causing the battery drain, but the low oil level module. Something you could have done to eliminate it as a possible cause of the drain without actually having to find it seems to me would have been to find the ground for that module shown in the diagram and remove it. By ground, I mean the one to the left @ 6:11, NOT the ground for the oil level sensor.
I have seen circuit board trace lines repaired--some even had wires soldered in to bridge the burnt part. This was on much larger and more complex computer circuit boards too----railway maintenance equipment. Imagine it is done elsewhere to repair circuit boards because new ones from OEM were VERY expensive for the ones I saw repaired.
It was definitely there before the radio well in my case because in my case somebody put an aftermarket radio but this car was also broken into and about a month or two after it got broken into he sold it or I got it taken away and the auction I believe cuz the option I bought it from and the guy who bought it from the auction drove it for a little bit did not tell me anything about it obviously he didn't know nothing and neither did I. But the engine ran super strong either way thank you very much I know I talked to you guys as you're off God bless you
Great video series Paul ! Glad Im not the only one that gets my ass kicked once in a while!! LOL. Had one recently where the battery was jumped wrong taking out multiple components!!
Welcome to Mitchell wiring diagrams pre-1994 they were pretty awful. From 1994 onward though the wiring diagrams became a lot more organized and being able to highlight the wires made tracing circuits much easier. As for the module either the PNP switching transistor (the large one on the heat sink) shorted causing the drain or the main 4 pin IC is bad and is applying power to the base of the switching transistor at all times keeping that load on.
Great video had me wanting more, better than watching murder on the orient express, with all the misleading clues to sidetrack everyone, the murderer was finally tracked down and caught.
OK on this one I have 2 questions. #1 what do you do if you cant get the module due to age? #2 what do you end up billing the customer in hrs knowing the length it took?
is it possible that the vehicle speed imput, like a very sharp decrease in speed, say from a hard stop, would cause the module to power up or down to lock the passive restraint belts?
A few terminals on the module look like they have a build-up of oxidation on them. I have had this be an issue with wiring problems. The "guts" of the module appear fine. Do you think the terminal oxidation issue may be contributing to the modules problem. One added note: Your 1/2 brother may be the professor in the family; yet, I think you are a PhD in auto diagnostics......................Doctor Dan.
They got around installing airbags in cars that vintage if they could make the seatbelts passive instead of active. This is one example. Another example is the motorized seatbelts they used in the early 90s. If they didn't do one of those two things they had to put airbags in.
hey paul, i have mitchell diy...how did you get colored wires on the diagram? or does that only come with the business accounts? Where you pay annually and you get all cars?
Wow Paul, that was an epic journey. I think somewhere between ep2 and ep3 I might have been tempted to give this thing a tuneup with 1 gallon of gasoline and a road flare ;-) To misquote an old Alka-seltzer commercial, I can't believe I watched the whole thing. But, what choice did I have? I couldn't walk away from that excellent video.
Thanks man! Old video but still good content. My editing and filming has gotten better over the years, but I'm really glad to hear this type of feedback from my older stuff. Made my day
It is becoming more and more difficult to answer questions here. I have 80,000 people asking me for help now. So I have created a forum to help you guys better. It is free to join and we can exchange pictures, wiring diagrams and waveforms if needed to help guide you through the process of troubleshooting your vehicle. Thank you so much! Hope to see you there. Paul Danner (ScannerDanner) www.scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair-questions-here.html
Hi Paul don't know if you got my email about the scope module you can buy off ebay, their about $100 or less and i guess they will work on cars, it's a 2 channel scope, Hantek 6022BE that you can use with a laptop, their are a couple of U tube clips on them, I have ordered one, they look pretty good, maybe some of your students might be interested.....Fred uk.
I loathe getting mired down in these Pandoras box cluster **** jobs... Also loathe inaccurate, missing, conflicting and/or poorly organized documentation. Looks like you got it from all sides.
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
I had an 89 Berreta with the same passive restraint system. Government regulations were going in requiring a passive restraint system for front seat passengers. Auto makers didn't have to use airbags, per se, but a system that automatically protected front seat passengers. This was GMs version. You could leave the seatbelts latched all the time, and still get in and out of the car. When you opened the door, the seat belts would release and you could get out. When you were driving and hit the brakes, or the car slowed down abruptly, the speed sensor reading would be used to tension the belts. It was a clumsy system, and everyone would just unlatch the seatbelts anyway. When airbags became more common, this system disappeared. Great videos, BTW!
Paul, I like how you are now more often opening up the faulty parts to take a look at them rather than just replacing it! Thanks for that!
FYI, My brother is a phone tech. I have brought some of his tech tools over to the auto side. I have been using a tone box and wand to follow the noise in the wire. I have had success in some cases following wires in search of those mysterious modules. Or the ones that are not listed/wrong locations. Great job your doing, refresh and learn new stuff all the time from your videos.
thanks mark macias
Used to get those when I worked at the Buick dealer. The system was designed so you could get in and out of the vehicle without taking your seat belt off. Thought that was a pretty interesting system myself. I remember getting burnt a couple of times by those solenoids when doing window motors. The solenoids would stay on and get hot with the door open. Never seen a module go bad on one though. Good catch and great video.
Excellent man I really admire your work great job.No One shows passion and interest on you tube like you do to go to extremes to impart such a great knowledge to students.great work
Thank you so much 😀
had a 93 olds I worked on and only had a test light to work with , spent hours and eventually found the same module bad. one for the record book.
Now that was an awesome trilogy! I need to have all my service writers watch them to see the pains we have to go through sometimes.
Wow! Another Great Video! Most Techs would’ve giving up & gave it a mediocre fix! You’re definitely thorough & complete! I will not be buying that vehicle any time soon! Lol! But seriously as it has been said, “Its always Impossible Until It’s Done!” Only you Paul could do this! Much Respect!
Great use of the Vantage!! Loved the different methods of testing parasitic draw. Amp clamp around that wire loom. Also and especially the millivolt reading on the fuse conductors!
Thank you Bill!
My immediate thought was (based on the stereo installation) that the module got cooked when he nicked “that wire”. This was “one of those cases “ that seems to have many contributing factors. Hard to nail down by interesting (and educational) to watch (even at 2:20am lol)
Superb videos, no way I could have skipped any part of them. Good work diagnosing bad charger leads too - probably saved someone from an injury right there.
Great job and thanks for a great case study.
Why go to the movies when we got Scanner Danner?!? Fire up some popcorn and enjoy!
Agree with others - your best field trip yet, Paul! Thanks for taking us along! I'll be recommending this excursion to others.
Terrific diagnostics! Great series on finding the defective passive restraint module failure. I definitely learned something more about parasitic draw testing. Thank you Paul
I found this video interesting because when I was trying to find a parasitic draw on our 94 Cavalier, I was dealing with a lot of the same components on the circuit that was drawing as you were. Mine was at the CTSY fuse and messing with the negative battery cable at the negative battery post gave me the same sounds that you experienced. I thought it was my power lock switches as well. The CTSY circuit on my car also dealt with the door latch switches which I also could never find. I also could not find the low oil level sensor. Mine problem turned out to be the trunk light harness that was causing the draw. I just unplugged it for now since it's not important to have. I will look at it more later after the weather gets better to see if the harness has a cut in it that could have been grounding out. This draw would cause the car's battery to go dead about every 7 days even when the car was driven 5 days out of the 7.
I also forgot to mention that our car also had the seat belt retractors inside the door and had the same two retractors with the same black and yellow wires going to it.
Way to go Paul! Watched the 3.1 series. I'm impressed. Reminds me of when I was going down the freeway in my 90 Deville. Suddenly the car shut off, speedometer jumped to 85 and I lost all accessory power. Being newer I didn't look at things systematically like I should have. I did find the fix a few dollars later, turns out the primary wire from my ign. switch to my coil (inside the distributor) shorted out against the engine and fried a fusible link... Watching this reminded me of that (I think it was the way that dash looked). Keep up the good videos!!
It's good that you guys don't give up as easily as most places. A good thing that the EPROM chip was not damaged along with the computer I don't know if it would be possible to find one of those anymore.
These are great videos! Maybe, some of your best yet! This series shows just what can happen as we work on our vehicles. Even with your skills and equipment, car repair isn't always quick and/or simple. You covered so many important points for us: Vehicle history, bad or missing diagrams, customer information, making sure our test instruments are properly connected, etc! Fine job! Keep the good info coming!
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and for a truly hilarious part 4, the phone conversation with two or three different parts guys, when you tell them you need that PR module on a 1993 anything...
better than any HBO or SHOWTIME series, keep up the good work!!!
The solenoids would hold the pendulum still so opening the door would not cause them to grab the seatbelt. Once the door was closed the pendulums had to be allowed to move so they could lock the seatbelt in an accident. The VSS input was there to override the door latch switches so that if you started driving the car it would automatically release the solenoid so that the seatbelts could work. It would ignore the door lock switch input with vehicle speed.
Loads better Paul, clear as a Bell now, I like it so much I will watch it again...Fred.
My Bronco II cranks but no spark, my techs changed parts first then tried to diagnose to NO avail lol, having them tow it to house I got factory wiring diagrams on way, hopefuly i can do as good as u guys, grt work, appreciate it! jim in NC
I have videos on the EEC IV ignition system. Check my chapter 22 playlist
i think i figured it out. When he clipped the harness, the wire cutters or scissors caused a momentary short to power, that backfed through the chime module, cruise module, or instrument cluster, that drk green wire is in the diagram is dotted meaning other things are connected to it, like the chime module, there are many drk green wires running to the radio but i dont think they are the same, the old pcm might of had more clues had it not exploded
Hi Paul. They use the term passive restraint because it doesn't require any action from the driver. The way that system works is you're supposed to leave the seat belt latched all the time. The driver is supposed to slide in and out underneath the seat belt that's already latched. The problem with that design is when you open the door the pendulum in the seatbelt it would cause the seatbelts to lock .
Excellent. I would had thought it was more than 4 hours 2 discover the draw.
Hey ScannerDanner, I wish I could go to your automotive school...I am stuck with my local community college for auto motive tech. I have watched a few of your videos and already love them. I am using them to help me learn diagnostics and such. Keep up the awesome work!
I'm surprised that you didn't think about the VSS in relation to the latch switch. Think about it. In modern cars when you reach a certain speed the doors lock. Perhaps they weren't as sophisticated back then and instead simply prevented the door handle from being used after a certain speed. A VSS controlled "lock in" design. Think that is possible from what you saw? That's all I could think of. Nice to see you struggle once in a while. If you aren't frustrated you aren't learning!
Just out of passing interest, we have a 08 Honda Fit that has a VSS input to the radio. (The radio has an auto volume up/down adjust feature to compensate for road noise.)
Maybe this has something similar, and in the act of radio wire chopping B+ was sent down the VSS and zapped the module?
Another great video, showing the real world issues we can come up against. I am liking frosty9595's idea about speed sensitive volume control, would be nice to see if the radio control module is linked to the speed signal circuit! A full conclusion as to the cause might result. Thanks Paul, a really interesting three parter.
I once had an 89 blazer mfg date 9 - 89. To find any parts that would fit it I had to use 88, 89, or 90 and compare the three to find the right part. It reminded me of that Johnny Cash Cadillac song, One piece at a time. Damn thing ran for 25+ years though with only the expected part replacements. Not one major item at all. Jpol.
That was a Passive Aggressive module!!
Look at 42:00 when you flip the module over. Upper left corner. Board is damaged, possibly shorted.
Sorry, you're 2 YEARS too late. +Daniel Auto Elektro had it 3 YEARS ago
You should save that module as a example for the next time your talking about transistor drivers in a ecm - ecu. That black 3 pin square - rectangle item mounted to the aluminum heat sink is a transistor it has the Base collector and emitter
GREAT case study!
Thank you for so much detail and taking the Passive Restraint Module apart.
Cheers!
P
SUBSTANTIAL Sir ScannerDanner
Great tutorial thank you 👍 Take care
Sir ScannerDanner
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
i weill never thought a module can cause a drawn... i always thought a consumer like a bulb cause a drawn... amazing
with the key off anything electrical that is awake and drawing current can be a parasitic draw
I realize this is an old video, but I've found that shopkey/Mitchell is sometimes limited on diagrams for older vehicles. Where Alldata has a few more. I found the diagram for the seatbelt system that shows the switches and solenoids. As well as some system explanation.
So when you heard the noise in the door as you pulled and replaced the fuse, couldn't you have whipped off tge door panel and then using the Power probe ECT device sent a radio signal back along the yellow wire and traced the module. I know it wouldn't have given you the vehicle speed being along the green wire, but after finding it fast you could say well there's power and ground so very likely module damaged.
i've watched this video before but my brothers 93 cavalier is doing the exact same thing
maybe a little late but i hope that fella did not drive that car without that module as he wont have proper working seat belts....the 93 cavalier was controlled by a chime module..the door latches/handles are wired at the door latch to illuminated the vehicle when puled up on Scanner Danner you are right about the solonoids allowing doors to be opened with belts still attached
looks like there is some burnt out print on the pcb of the control module, at the top left hand corner of the pcb
pause video at 41.58 . I could be wrong, it might be a shadow
Great video
you r very determine despite the challenge,proud of you keep it up.
I had a Grand Cherokee come into the shop, don't remember the year, it had a parasitic draw, traced it down to the door ajar switch, even using a wiring diagram it took me 4 hours plus to track it down, I do not recall if their was a door ajar lamp illuminated on the dash either.
Never say quit never say surrender
Awesome case study!
Thanks man! Just keep following me and I will fill in the gaps for you for sure.
I really appreciate your support.
Awesome investigation, really enjoyable. Love your work. Thanks for sharing.
Great information. I enjoyed this series.
Alldata lists the wiring diagram as "Seat belt system" for 1993 Buick Regal. The interesting thing is that they also have the exact same location description. GM must assume that is enough info to go on.
Thanks Fred!
That was great! Thanks for an awesome share video! Have a great one!
Good catch, thanks. I'll add a footnote. Guess I had a little brain cramp there :)
Great information Dan! Thank you so much
I know it didn't have anything to do with what was causing the battery drain, but the low oil level module. Something you could have done to eliminate it as a possible cause of the drain without actually having to find it seems to me would have been to find the ground for that module shown in the diagram and remove it. By ground, I mean the one to the left @ 6:11, NOT the ground for the oil level sensor.
As an Engineer told me once, years ago, never assume anything.
But,, he assumed that smoking wouldn't affect his health too. Did though.
i think i can see the damage line on the back of the circuit board 41:57 left top corner
You are correct, sir. There is a burnt trace (open) which goes from the center pin of Q1 to diode D1. Nice catch!
Lol good one i didnt catch it
I have seen circuit board trace lines repaired--some even had wires soldered in to bridge the burnt part. This was on much larger and more complex computer circuit boards too----railway maintenance equipment. Imagine it is done elsewhere to repair circuit boards because new ones from OEM were VERY expensive for the ones I saw repaired.
It was definitely there before the radio well in my case because in my case somebody put an aftermarket radio but this car was also broken into and about a month or two after it got broken into he sold it or I got it taken away and the auction I believe cuz the option I bought it from and the guy who bought it from the auction drove it for a little bit did not tell me anything about it obviously he didn't know nothing and neither did I. But the engine ran super strong either way thank you very much I know I talked to you guys as you're off God bless you
Great video series Paul ! Glad Im not the only one that gets my ass kicked once in a while!! LOL. Had one recently where the battery was jumped wrong taking out multiple components!!
Welcome to Mitchell wiring diagrams pre-1994 they were pretty awful.
From 1994 onward though the wiring diagrams became a lot more organized and being able to highlight the wires made tracing circuits much easier.
As for the module either the PNP switching transistor (the large one on the heat sink) shorted causing the drain or the main 4 pin IC is bad and is applying power to the base of the switching transistor at all times keeping that load on.
"Incredible Diagnosis"
Did the factory radio have the speed compensated volume? if so it may have been shorted while cutting wires of the original radio.
The transistor could being trigger and should be ohm out on the passive restraints control module
annotations added, thanks again
Possible burnt trace in the upper left of module bottom at 41:59
Great video had me wanting more, better than watching murder on the orient express, with all the misleading clues to sidetrack everyone, the murderer was finally tracked down and caught.
Thank you!
Now to work out why the oil pressure gauge says 40psi when the car is not running...
Great video
Great job good learning video
Good case study good stuff.
That was an interesting 3 part video. Well done.
You are the man
OK on this one I have 2 questions. #1 what do you do if you cant get the module due to age? #2 what do you end up billing the customer in hrs knowing the length it took?
Question one, junk yard.
Question 2 bill time involved, as long as your accurate, you can
This is so fun to watch! Been there!
Awesome video, thanks!
Thanks! Paul. God Bles You.
Nice work fellows!! Thank you
Can you make out the markings on the chip in the module? I'm curious to know if its a standard micro controller.
Last post was 9 years ago but Paul do you see the Search function? Check the Full search? Just type restraint.
Search function of what? Time frame please
Wow, I know this is one case study u want soon to forget.. Has this been the toughest diagnostic opponent of 2013??
is it possible that the vehicle speed imput, like a very sharp decrease in speed, say from a hard stop, would cause the module to power up or down to lock the passive restraint belts?
input
A few terminals on the module look like they have a build-up of oxidation on them. I have had this be an issue with wiring problems. The "guts" of the module appear fine. Do you think the terminal oxidation issue may be contributing to the modules problem.
One added note: Your 1/2 brother may be the professor in the family; yet, I think you are a PhD in auto diagnostics......................Doctor Dan.
Gee there was a fair bit involved in that one !
U went 3 rounds with this one.. U usually tko them in the first.. I haven't seen this much excitement since ur first bout with jeep case study..
great videos...
Omg thank u so much it worked...thank you I have 1994 gmc sierra stepside
My Mitchell do not look like yours. Is there another Mitchell?
hi Dan Morey here in Edmonton Alberta Canada wondering how I can get a hold of this fantastic book?
From my website at www.scannerdanner.com
Thank you!
They got around installing airbags in cars that vintage if they could make the seatbelts passive instead of active. This is one example. Another example is the motorized seatbelts they used in the early 90s. If they didn't do one of those two things they had to put airbags in.
whenever there is a diode involved, they can be blown open...or...closed! Those solenoid diodes' could be the problem...check those also.
fantastic detective work! Another great reason not to buy a used GM.
hey paul, i have mitchell diy...how did you get colored wires on the diagram? or does that only come with the business accounts? Where you pay annually and you get all cars?
Could the solenoid be "stuck" in the closed position?
Any solenoid can stick open or closed
I meant in this case stuck closed and thus would be on causing a drain.
Wow Paul, that was an epic journey. I think somewhere between ep2 and ep3 I might have been tempted to give this thing a tuneup with 1 gallon of gasoline and a road flare ;-)
To misquote an old Alka-seltzer commercial, I can't believe I watched the whole thing. But, what choice did I have? I couldn't walk away from that excellent video.
Thanks man! Old video but still good content.
My editing and filming has gotten better over the years, but I'm really glad to hear this type of feedback from my older stuff. Made my day
what's that call. the tool you put on the wire
Which tool? It's been a long time since I filmed this. Give me a time stamp
I guess he didn't disconnect the battery before changing the radio!
are them switches in tge door
It is becoming more and more difficult to answer questions here. I have 80,000 people asking me for help now. So I have created a forum to help you guys better. It is free to join and we can exchange pictures, wiring diagrams and waveforms if needed to help guide you through the process of troubleshooting your vehicle. Thank you so much! Hope to see you there.
Paul Danner (ScannerDanner)
www.scannerdanner.com/forum/post-your-repair-questions-here.html
Very defcult tes
you keep doubting if the issue occurred at the battery explosion...NOOOOOOO~ the issue was present before that, it was the original complaint!
it was caused by a reverse polarity battery charger being connected. I believe I covered that in here. Did I not?
any body know what that module actually does ?
what module?
Hi Paul don't know if you got my email about the scope module you can buy off ebay, their about $100 or less and i guess they will work on cars, it's a 2 channel scope, Hantek 6022BE that you can use with a laptop, their are a couple of U tube clips on them, I have ordered one, they look pretty good, maybe some of your students might be interested.....Fred uk.
I loathe getting mired down in these Pandoras box cluster **** jobs...
Also loathe inaccurate, missing, conflicting and/or poorly organized documentation.
Looks like you got it from all sides.
Should of just taped up the switches and took the doors off (job done) lol.