Excellent build! Gotta mention the name too, Mauro is my mother's family name! My great great grandfather Vincino Mauro, great grandfather Bartholomeo Mauro, and grandfather Giovachino Mauro. I am a very novice guitar builder, but love seeing the name on something I love. Great work!
Thank you, I'm glad you like it! An Italian friend told me that it used to be more of a surname. However, I have never met anyone in person with that name.
@@guitarsbymauro I had a high school friend named Mauro Commuzzi. BTW, the Guitars is absolutely gorgeous.! I noticed that you used a Schaller mega switch. I think you also used Schaller strap Locks as well. Two things I would’ve done differently. I would’ve also used Schaller locking tuners, and I would have recessed the neck mounting screws with Ferrels, and I would’ve contoured the neck heel for better feel and better reach to the higher frets. Other than that, it’s absolutely beautiful! #GirlPower #MetalChicksRule
I just finished building my first ever guitar. After watching this and how you so effectively use your tools... I got alot to learn! What did you use to finish the body /neck? Oil?
Paying royalties to Fender, are you? 😁 I like how you've modified the angle of the lower bout under the right arm. Fender insists on sticking with an outdated design. The angle Leo drew works for holding the guitar high, not lower like people have been ever since the 60's. Fender's still stuck in the 1950's. It works for them, I guess.
Wow, this is so cool ! That makes me so curious so i've got a bunch of question, if you're okay with it ? 06:21 does both of those shape have an impact on the acoustic of the guitar ? Like, does another shape, or the lack of shape would impact the sound ? 18:50 i've just seen another video (restoration of an old stratocaster) where they used a tiny drop of glue for the fret. I suppose you're not afraid of them going off the board ? 22:37 You've just soaked them with something, and then polish it again. What was that ? And then varnish i guess ? (and then polish and varnish again ?) 28:04 Are those gold leaf ? Does this have a purpose or is it just aesthetic ? And anyway, that might not be the most interesting thing to see, but i would have liked very much to see you do the electronics parts as well !
I'm not the builder, so take these comments for what they're worth: 1. "Comfort carves" (arm carve on front and belly carve on back of body) are unlikely to result in any audible change to final sound, imo. 2. Glue for frets is a good idea. So is pre-bending frets to the same radius as fingerboard before installing (video makes it appear that frets did have bend). However, as long as the kerf width of the fret slots is slightly less than the width of the fret tang, frets will generally stay pretty stable. Too narrow or too wide a kerf makes the install a nightmare. Usual kerf width target is .023 inches (5.8 mm) or thereabouts. 3. Don't know what products the builder used; looks as if a stain or oil mix (e.g., danish oil, tung oil) was used, with final coats of wipe-on sealer of some sort. 4. Copper tape as a lining helps to keep out RF interference, to which single coil pickups are prone. Covering both the bottom of the P/U cavity and the bottom of the pickguard (the top of the P/U cavity) creates an ersatz "Faraday cage," which resists outside signals from entering.
Thanks for explaining @D_Morse. I'd like to add that I do use some glue on the models that I sell purely for safety measures. Before finishing the guitar with several coats of Danish Oil I used a damp cloth to raise the grain. I sanded it down again shortly after for a silky smooth finish. Pretty standard woodworking procedure. Hope that helps!
Honestly, stretching every other minute to keep the stance alive! I did some rough passes for heavy removal before doing a finishing pass for clean edges.
Yeah, I don't get it. I find it impossible to rout close to a line without screwing it up. There are accurate jigs. Why not use a jig? You're already using a machine in the router.
@@hootowl6354 Just seemed like the tidier solution to me but I admit I enjoy using the router that way. I did the pre drilling where I felt I couldn't get the radius perfectly by hand. I guess I like a little challenge sometimes!
Excellent build! Gotta mention the name too, Mauro is my mother's family name! My great great grandfather Vincino Mauro, great grandfather Bartholomeo Mauro, and grandfather Giovachino Mauro. I am a very novice guitar builder, but love seeing the name on something I love. Great work!
Thank you, I'm glad you like it! An Italian friend told me that it used to be more of a surname. However, I have never met anyone in person with that name.
@@guitarsbymauro I had a high school friend named Mauro Commuzzi. BTW, the Guitars is absolutely gorgeous.! I noticed that you used a Schaller mega switch. I think you also used Schaller strap Locks as well. Two things I would’ve done differently. I would’ve also used Schaller locking tuners, and I would have recessed the neck mounting screws with Ferrels, and I would’ve contoured the neck heel for better feel and better reach to the higher frets. Other than that, it’s absolutely beautiful! #GirlPower #MetalChicksRule
No template to route the pickups or neck pocket??? Just done by eye! This is a master woodworker and luthier!
Fantastic workmanship and great result
Thanks, glad you like it!
I just finished building my first ever guitar. After watching this and how you so effectively use your tools... I got alot to learn! What did you use to finish the body /neck? Oil?
That's awesome, congratulations! Yes, I used danish oil on this guitar.
Beautiful guitar! Awesome video!
Thanks, appreciate the support!
amazing ❤
That is a lovely looking guitar mate. It's a shame we didn't get to hear a play test of it though.
Thanks! I definitely want to do sound demos of my own models in future videos, I'm thinking of band setups/collabs with musicians. Stick around!
Paying royalties to Fender, are you? 😁
I like how you've modified the angle of the lower bout under the right arm. Fender insists on sticking with an outdated design. The angle Leo drew works for holding the guitar high, not lower like people have been ever since the 60's. Fender's still stuck in the 1950's. It works for them, I guess.
Ergonomics and playability are (almost) everything!
Wow, this is so cool ! That makes me so curious so i've got a bunch of question, if you're okay with it ?
06:21 does both of those shape have an impact on the acoustic of the guitar ? Like, does another shape, or the lack of shape would impact the sound ?
18:50 i've just seen another video (restoration of an old stratocaster) where they used a tiny drop of glue for the fret. I suppose you're not afraid of them going off the board ?
22:37 You've just soaked them with something, and then polish it again. What was that ? And then varnish i guess ? (and then polish and varnish again ?)
28:04 Are those gold leaf ? Does this have a purpose or is it just aesthetic ?
And anyway, that might not be the most interesting thing to see, but i would have liked very much to see you do the electronics parts as well !
I'm not the builder, so take these comments for what they're worth:
1. "Comfort carves" (arm carve on front and belly carve on back of body) are unlikely to result in any audible change to final sound, imo.
2. Glue for frets is a good idea. So is pre-bending frets to the same radius as fingerboard before installing (video makes it appear that frets did have bend). However, as long as the kerf width of the fret slots is slightly less than the width of the fret tang, frets will generally stay pretty stable. Too narrow or too wide a kerf makes the install a nightmare. Usual kerf width target is .023 inches (5.8 mm) or thereabouts.
3. Don't know what products the builder used; looks as if a stain or oil mix (e.g., danish oil, tung oil) was used, with final coats of wipe-on sealer of some sort.
4. Copper tape as a lining helps to keep out RF interference, to which single coil pickups are prone. Covering both the bottom of the P/U cavity and the bottom of the pickguard (the top of the P/U cavity) creates an ersatz "Faraday cage," which resists outside signals from entering.
Thanks for explaining @D_Morse. I'd like to add that I do use some glue on the models that I sell purely for safety measures.
Before finishing the guitar with several coats of Danish Oil I used a damp cloth to raise the grain. I sanded it down again shortly after for a silky smooth finish. Pretty standard woodworking procedure. Hope that helps!
nice. What did you use as a finish? Oil, varnish, what was that?
Thanks, I applied several coats of danish oil on both body and neck.
This neck 🔥🔥
Love the pale flame on this neck!
That router bit is a beast!!! Where can I buy one???
Got this off amazon if I remember correctly. Came with replaceable blades which is always handy!
Wonderful, I just build some from Parts I bought. Somethin completly different
Very cool!
9:56 why dont do this with a router? 🙈🙈
Cutting the excess fret material with an ANGLE GRINDER??? You're brave sir.
I had initial concerns about burn marks around the fret slots from the heat transfer. Turns out being fast helps at times.
How are you routing that perfectly by hand?
Honestly, stretching every other minute to keep the stance alive! I did some rough passes for heavy removal before doing a finishing pass for clean edges.
Yeah, I don't get it. I find it impossible to rout close to a line without screwing it up. There are accurate jigs. Why not use a jig? You're already using a machine in the router.
I was wondering, too, why you didn't drill out most of the material before routing the final sliver of wood.
@@hootowl6354 Just seemed like the tidier solution to me but I admit I enjoy using the router that way. I did the pre drilling where I felt I couldn't get the radius perfectly by hand. I guess I like a little challenge sometimes!
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Thanks!