Nice tutorial series. One suggestion for you when you want to line up your two sheets to 1". Instead of moving the two halves over to the ruler, just create a 1" long rectangle in between them. It doesn't even have to be the entire length of the design. That will allow you to space the parts exactly 1" apart. I'm building model railroad buildings out of cardstock using Inkscape and just got a Cricut to cut out the parts. Your video is a great help. Cheers!
I had the same issue with scaling from Inkscape to DS. What I found was that if you ensure the svg only incldues paths (select all-paths-object to paths) the scaling is maintained. The 1" square is a great double check
Thank for putting this together. I've been considering a Cricut for myself. How often do you change the blade in the machine? And how would it do with really light "C" grain balsa? And can you cut balsa thinner than 1/16th? Sorry for all the questions but your videos have me excited about the possibilities. 😁
I replace it when the blade stops cutting cleanly. I don't have any specific number of cuts or time period. I've cut extremely light balsa, just stopping the cut after two passes instead of doing the four that the program defaults to. I'm sure you could cut thinner, just with one or two passes. The thinner balsa would be more sensitive to blade condition.
any advice for basswood. i have tried cutting 1/16th inch basswood dinosaur puzzles and they always fail on the first cut pass of the knife blade. ive tried with a cricut maker, and a maker 3. ive been very frustrated
Sorry, I've only tried a basswood cut two times, and I was not satisfied either time. It may be able to cut basswood, but not in a detailed manner. Maybe jigsaw puzzle type cuts. I use my machine exclusively for balsa.
@@PunkRockBenWilson I have cut many, many airplane kits out of balsa. The only cautions I have are that the balsa is not too old and dry, as it tears rather than cuts, and try not to make the cuts too close to the edge, as the balsa will crack close to the edge after a couple of passes and it might spoil that part. Just remember to do a calibration before you start cutting, and use a good mat. I bought a cheap set of mats and they wood didn't stay stuck in place an it messed up the cuts on one side of the piece. Also, if it's really good, light balsa it might only take two or three passes instead of all four passes.
I do not. I am involved in so many different hobbies that I have to limit my "joining". I did a FF as an example because I think that this is where the Cricut could really shine, but I'm more of a 1/2A control line guy. I also just joined the local RC club last week and I'm going to be cutting 1/2A RC planes. That's in between working on my Vette and my full size Experimental Homebuilt aircraft...
Once I had all the individual parts drawn I arranged them into the two groups, then I used the cursor to to select each individual group of parts. I used the "Object" tab and selected "Group" to make the group of parts into one panel.
Nice tutorial series. One suggestion for you when you want to line up your two sheets to 1". Instead of moving the two halves over to the ruler, just create a 1" long rectangle in between them. It doesn't even have to be the entire length of the design. That will allow you to space the parts exactly 1" apart. I'm building model railroad buildings out of cardstock using Inkscape and just got a Cricut to cut out the parts. Your video is a great help. Cheers!
I had the same issue with scaling from Inkscape to DS. What I found was that if you ensure the svg only incldues paths (select all-paths-object to paths) the scaling is maintained. The 1" square is a great double check
Thank for putting this together. I've been considering a Cricut for myself. How often do you change the blade in the machine? And how would it do with really light "C" grain balsa? And can you cut balsa thinner than 1/16th? Sorry for all the questions but your videos have me excited about the possibilities. 😁
I replace it when the blade stops cutting cleanly. I don't have any specific number of cuts or time period. I've cut extremely light balsa, just stopping the cut after two passes instead of doing the four that the program defaults to. I'm sure you could cut thinner, just with one or two passes. The thinner balsa would be more sensitive to blade condition.
Thank you Mark. Great stuff. One more question if I may. What holds the balsa to the cutting mat?
@@Watchingthevideos99 I use the purple high strength mat.
OK, but what holds the balsa to the mat during the cutting? Is it glued to the mat with spray adhesive or something?
@@Watchingthevideos99 The mat has a sticky surface.
keep it going My next thing is to do it
Do all Cricut models do this? Quite nifty, actually. Thanks.
Only the Maker models.
Impressive.
any advice for basswood. i have tried cutting 1/16th inch basswood dinosaur puzzles and they always fail on the first cut pass of the knife blade. ive tried with a cricut maker, and a maker 3. ive been very frustrated
Sorry, I've only tried a basswood cut two times, and I was not satisfied either time. It may be able to cut basswood, but not in a detailed manner. Maybe jigsaw puzzle type cuts. I use my machine exclusively for balsa.
@@markmcriley2558 I think I’ll have to give balsa a whirl before giving up on it completely. At least it’s good for my vinyl
@@PunkRockBenWilson I have cut many, many airplane kits out of balsa. The only cautions I have are that the balsa is not too old and dry, as it tears rather than cuts, and try not to make the cuts too close to the edge, as the balsa will crack close to the edge after a couple of passes and it might spoil that part. Just remember to do a calibration before you start cutting, and use a good mat. I bought a cheap set of mats and they wood didn't stay stuck in place an it messed up the cuts on one side of the piece. Also, if it's really good, light balsa it might only take two or three passes instead of all four passes.
Wow! Thanks for sharing this. I will give it a go. Do you belong to Flying Aces?
I do not. I am involved in so many different hobbies that I have to limit my "joining". I did a FF as an example because I think that this is where the Cricut could really shine, but I'm more of a 1/2A control line guy. I also just joined the local RC club last week and I'm going to be cutting 1/2A RC planes. That's in between working on my Vette and my full size Experimental Homebuilt aircraft...
how did you separate the drawing into two panels?
Once I had all the individual parts drawn I arranged them into the two groups, then I used the cursor to to select each individual group of parts. I used the "Object" tab and selected "Group" to make the group of parts into one panel.
Would Trace Bitmap save you all the tracing or does that work with separate parts?
I tried using Trace Bitmap, but the plans I download are old, and the lines are not crisp enough for the Trace Bitmap function to work very well.