Johnathan, yes you did get a working screen and in all fairness and because I tend to keep comments short my wording was messed up. My point was such a different mesh was used from what you intended, that’s all. I’m in my 70’s and still going strong in screen printing and like yourself can determine image to mesh and exposure but will always drop on a 21 step to fine tune. I feel with the advancement of LED’s unlike metal halide there is no need to use a scale every time to check for light degradation but you would want to check periodically. Wow, my longest comment ever but I felt I owed you an explanation. Keep well and much success in the future.
It's all good. Sometimes you need to be detailed so you are not misunderstood. It's simply a matter of preference. Today with LED exposure units, there is really no need to monitor degradation of the UV output which should be about 400 nanometers UV light. The lifetime is such that I will be dead before I would notice any degradation or have issues with it. Black lamp industrial UV lights do degrade over time but in my experience, I still do not need the exposure calculator to notice that. Not only will the exposure time become noticeably longer, the black light fluorescent UV bulbs will begin to darken at the ends. Like I said, everyone has their own way of doing things. Nothing wrong with that. Let me know if I can help out anytime.
Yes. This unit is 120v/60Hz, 540 watts, 4.5 amps. However, with exposing screen printing emulsion, the UV output is the most important factor. Black lamp fluorescent UV units are around 300 nanometers UV. LED units are at about 400 nanometers or more. Thanks for watching. CatspitScreenPrintSupply.com
That's pretty impressive except the sound of the pump lol. LED be great for high detail be less light travel down the weave because of the light spectrum IMO and quicker is better for half tones high detail.
Yeah I agree. The pump is louder than I expected. I'll be looking into that to be sure I have a good working pump. LED exposure units work great and are better than the black lamp florescent and equivalent to single source metal halide bulbs in my opinion. Screen Printing Equipment & Supplies - CatspitScreenPrintSupply.com/
@@CatspitProductions also you deff need the string no matter how good the vacum is. The string helps by creating a small channel/access so the air can be vacuumed out without the string not gonna happen. Also IMO laying the string across your design your about to expose can in some way jeopardise your uncured emulsion, un nessesary pressure on were you are to wash out your design I always lay string down the side of frame away from design.
@@Motorizedmadness Okay for the rope or string. I do not think in my opinion that it does much. Here's the thing; the screen does not make an air tight seal between it and the glass. With a vacuum pump that works like Han Solo, the string is irrelevant ;) This exposure unit will work the same with or without that rope. I can make a video about it if need be. Also the string or rope has no effect on the design and exposure since it is on the inkwell side. You can it it anywhere you want. As long as the light is coming from underneath the screen, the rope has nothing to do with the exposure itself. Especially with an LED UV unit which is at about 400 nanometers UV. That's my humble opinion. I have never had any issues with the rope or string on any exposure unit I have used honestly.
If you’re going to promote a product do it properly. You said you were going to expose a 156 and you guesstimated a 13 second exposure. Why would you not put a 21 step exposure scale on the screen. Then you used a coarser mesh what a mess.
Hello Bob. I'm pretty busy but I had to respond. It's interesting. I'm 54 and I started screen printing when I was 11. I use the same emulsion every time. I am very familiar with the process and speed of the emulsion. Never in my life have I used or needed an exposure calculator. I'm a mess? Maybe. But I can pull out any screen of any mesh count and produce an excellent stencil without a step calculator. I can even come in your "shop" and use whatever you have and I will get a working stencil. Once you become familiar with things, you won't need crutches like a step calculator. It's emulsion. It's either there or not. There are no gradients as in photography. So yes, I wanted to use a 156 or 160 because I am experienced enough to judge the artwork to determine the mesh I need to use. But I didn't have one ready. Therefore, with my experience, I used what I had and still had a working stencil with all the detail. This video was more about the machine than my method. Everyone has their own method and way. If you think I am stupid and I do not know what I am talking about, then please begin to upload over 500 screen printing videos for free for the world to use them as they wish. In the end this is true. There is no wrong way to screen print, unless your print sucks and/or you are taking too much time. Other than that, if your print looks good, I will never criticize your method. Thanks for watching and reminding me how the internet is and how TH-cam works. Since 2009 I guess I have been teaching the wrong things. Best wishes and love from the old Cat.
Johnathan, yes you did get a working screen and in all fairness and because I tend to keep comments short my wording was messed up. My point was such a different mesh was used from what you intended, that’s all. I’m in my 70’s and still going strong in screen printing and like yourself can determine image to mesh and exposure but will always drop on a 21 step to fine tune. I feel with the advancement of LED’s unlike metal halide there is no need to use a scale every time to check for light degradation but you would want to check periodically. Wow, my longest comment ever but I felt I owed you an explanation. Keep well and much success in the future.
It's all good. Sometimes you need to be detailed so you are not misunderstood. It's simply a matter of preference. Today with LED exposure units, there is really no need to monitor degradation of the UV output which should be about 400 nanometers UV light. The lifetime is such that I will be dead before I would notice any degradation or have issues with it. Black lamp industrial UV lights do degrade over time but in my experience, I still do not need the exposure calculator to notice that. Not only will the exposure time become noticeably longer, the black light fluorescent UV bulbs will begin to darken at the ends. Like I said, everyone has their own way of doing things. Nothing wrong with that. Let me know if I can help out anytime.
Thank you so much for continuing to make great educational videos for us! It's very much appreciated!
You're welcome. I'm happy I can still make videos and help people out. Thanks for watching. CatspitScreenPrintSupply.com
Hello, do you know Watts of this uv light source? Thanks
Yes. This unit is 120v/60Hz, 540 watts, 4.5 amps. However, with exposing screen printing emulsion, the UV output is the most important factor. Black lamp fluorescent UV units are around 300 nanometers UV. LED units are at about 400 nanometers or more. Thanks for watching. CatspitScreenPrintSupply.com
That's pretty impressive except the sound of the pump lol. LED be great for high detail be less light travel down the weave because of the light spectrum IMO and quicker is better for half tones high detail.
Yeah I agree. The pump is louder than I expected. I'll be looking into that to be sure I have a good working pump. LED exposure units work great and are better than the black lamp florescent and equivalent to single source metal halide bulbs in my opinion. Screen Printing Equipment & Supplies - CatspitScreenPrintSupply.com/
@@CatspitProductions also you deff need the string no matter how good the vacum is. The string helps by creating a small channel/access so the air can be vacuumed out without the string not gonna happen. Also IMO laying the string across your design your about to expose can in some way jeopardise your uncured emulsion, un nessesary pressure on were you are to wash out your design I always lay string down the side of frame away from design.
@@Motorizedmadness Okay for the rope or string. I do not think in my opinion that it does much. Here's the thing; the screen does not make an air tight seal between it and the glass. With a vacuum pump that works like Han Solo, the string is irrelevant ;) This exposure unit will work the same with or without that rope. I can make a video about it if need be. Also the string or rope has no effect on the design and exposure since it is on the inkwell side. You can it it anywhere you want. As long as the light is coming from underneath the screen, the rope has nothing to do with the exposure itself. Especially with an LED UV unit which is at about 400 nanometers UV. That's my humble opinion. I have never had any issues with the rope or string on any exposure unit I have used honestly.
If you’re going to promote a product do it properly. You said you were going to expose a 156 and you guesstimated a 13 second exposure. Why would you not put a 21 step exposure scale on the screen. Then you used a coarser mesh what a mess.
Hello Bob. I'm pretty busy but I had to respond. It's interesting. I'm 54 and I started screen printing when I was 11. I use the same emulsion every time. I am very familiar with the process and speed of the emulsion. Never in my life have I used or needed an exposure calculator. I'm a mess? Maybe. But I can pull out any screen of any mesh count and produce an excellent stencil without a step calculator. I can even come in your "shop" and use whatever you have and I will get a working stencil. Once you become familiar with things, you won't need crutches like a step calculator. It's emulsion. It's either there or not. There are no gradients as in photography. So yes, I wanted to use a 156 or 160 because I am experienced enough to judge the artwork to determine the mesh I need to use. But I didn't have one ready. Therefore, with my experience, I used what I had and still had a working stencil with all the detail. This video was more about the machine than my method. Everyone has their own method and way. If you think I am stupid and I do not know what I am talking about, then please begin to upload over 500 screen printing videos for free for the world to use them as they wish. In the end this is true. There is no wrong way to screen print, unless your print sucks and/or you are taking too much time. Other than that, if your print looks good, I will never criticize your method. Thanks for watching and reminding me how the internet is and how TH-cam works. Since 2009 I guess I have been teaching the wrong things. Best wishes and love from the old Cat.