E3D V6 All Metal Hotend Adapter to Ender 3 V2

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ม.ค. 2022
  • How to install a E3D V6 all metal hotend to the Ender 3 V2
    Victor Bared designed, low weight, compact, E3D V6 fan bracket, super-efficient blower ducts, E3D V6 to Ender 3 V2 adapter, CR Touch modified mount, Y-stepper cover & limit switch mount for $3.49
    victor-bared.myshopify.com/pr...
    E3D V6 all-metal hotend - amzn.to/3KFvlEl
    G10 Garolite Build Surface - amzn.to/3tNSGg8
    Free .STL files needed to mount the E3D V6 all metal hotend to the Ender 3 V2 X - carriage, Y - Limit switch plate, and Y - stepper motor cover.
    drive.google.com/uc?export=do...
    Screws needed to mount:
    M2 X 8mm self-tapping (need 8) - amzn.to/3qulw3o
    M3 X 12mm pan head (need 4) - amzn.to/3fqjP0B
    M3 x 6mm hex button cap screw - amzn.to/349l6Hy
    Fans needed:
    Compatible blower fans - amzn.to/3tuKfqm
    Noctua 4010 fan 3-pin - amzn.to/3fnYDbw
    Compatible with the following 3D printer:
    Ender 3 V2
    Thank you for supporting my work.
    Music: Morning Day [Original Mix] by Imperss Music is licensed under a Creative Commons License.
    creativecommons.org/licenses/...
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    Music Colors Of Sunset [Original Mix] by Imperss is licensed under a Creative Commons License.
    httpscreativecommons.orglicenses...
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ความคิดเห็น • 152

  • @mred9335
    @mred9335 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Just printed this in ASA, turned out great. Thank you for awesome work!

    • @vbared
      @vbared  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Hello Mr Ed, Thank you for commenting. I'm glad the adaptor printed well and fits properly. The E3D V6 all metal hotend is amazing. I haven't had a single hotend issue since installing it 8 months ago.
      Best of luck with your mods!

  • @viralbull8085
    @viralbull8085 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

    i am on a rabbit hole right now, trying to print 2.85 filament on a neptune 2s which is basically a clone of this machine, the machine right now has a MicroSwiss clone on it running the original 1.75 mm.
    i was looking about to see if some one had already made a bracket adapter for this vulcan type hotends, if you are the one who design this bracket, thats a beautiful feat of engineering really nice done.
    i don't know if i am going to go through trying to run 2.85 or 3 mm filament on that machine but i am glad i found this video.

    • @vbared
      @vbared  2 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Hi friend, Thank you for commenting. I'm glad you found value in these videos for your viewing time. Yeah, getting things to fit just right on this mount took many prototypes. I currently have the following hotend on order and will be doing some testing with it. It appears to use the standard E3D V6 style mounting system so it should be compatible with the fam bracket in this video. The only change that will be needed is a redesign of the blower ducts to make them longer.
      trianglelab.net/products/chc-pro-hotend?VariantsId=10271

  • @Juroriam
    @Juroriam ปีที่แล้ว

    That is a neat little fan duct! Great job!
    Would it fit BMG extruder in direct drive configuraton?

    • @vbared
      @vbared  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Hello Mykola, Thank you for commenting and kindness. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Please send me a picture of your setup vbared@gmail.com so I can answer your question.

  • @runbuh
    @runbuh 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Is the new bracket for the CR Touch meant to lower it?
    Also - what size/type are the two screws that connect the "Adapter Top" to the "Adapter Bottom"?

    • @vbared
      @vbared  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Hello Run, Thank you for commenting. Yes, the CR-Touch needed to be lowered to trigger before the new E3D V6 made contact with the build plate. The screws that join the two collar halves together are M3 X 12mm the ones needed to anchor the adapter to the carriage bracket is M3 X 6mm.
      M2 X 8mm self-tapping (need 8) - amzn.to/3qulw3o
      M3 X 12mm pan head (need 4) - amzn.to/3fqjP0B
      M3 x 6mm hex button cap screw - amzn.to/349l6Hy
      Best of luck with your mods!

  • @nostalgiagameplay3933
    @nostalgiagameplay3933 ปีที่แล้ว

    Where do you get those parts ? at 15:00 (the one where you attach fan), there's no parts like that in the file you share in the description

    • @vbared
      @vbared  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Hello Nostalgia, Thank you for commenting. If I understood you question you need The .STL files needed to mount the E3D V6 to the Creality carriage? If so is the first link to my Shopify store in the description. I included it below for your convenience.
      victor-bared.myshopify.com/products/minimalist-e3d-v6-fans-bracket-and-ducts-for-dual-4010-blowers-single-4010-or-4020-heatsink-fan-stl-files-for-diy-3d-printing
      Best of luck with your mods!

  • @runbuh
    @runbuh 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Would it be possible to combine the "top" mount with the main shroud so that the shroud becomes a bit more solid, and the whole thing mounts to the "bottom"?

    • @vbared
      @vbared  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Hello Run Buh, I'll have to look and see how it impacts the installation and maintenance. When it's all assembled I'll be rigid.

  • @andrewhamop6665
    @andrewhamop6665 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Question, does the STL file include the modified position for the CR/BL touch?

    • @vbared
      @vbared  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Hello AndrewHamOp, Thank you for commenting. The free .STL files link in the video description contains the adaptor files to mount the E3D V6 hotend to the Creality bracket, CR-Touch bracket (I haven't tested it with the BL-Touch). Y-limit switch base and Y-stepper motor cover. The Shopify link below includes all the files aforementioned plus the fans bracket and ducts.
      victor-bared.myshopify.com/products/minimalist-e3d-v6-fans-bracket-and-ducts-for-dual-4010-blowers-single-4010-or-4020-heatsink-fan-stl-files-for-diy-3d-printing
      Best of luck with your mods!

    • @andrewhamop6665
      @andrewhamop6665 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@vbared Ah, yeah I guess I should have watched the whole video before commenting. Just noticed that it does indeed use the stock CR touch bracket, thanks!

    • @vbared
      @vbared  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@andrewhamop6665 Hi Andrew, No worries. The CR-Touch bracket will need to be changed if you are going to use the E3D V6 hotend with the adapter I created because the hotend is a little longer so if you don't replace the stock CR-Touch bracket for the version that I made then the nozzle will hit the bed before the probe triggers.

  • @muhammadbariakhdan2859
    @muhammadbariakhdan2859 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    heyy victor, thankss for sharing with me. I really appreciate it man🙂.
    anyway I had similar problem. my ender 3 start failing after 4 months of continuous use. I'm considering to change my hotend exactly like yours. frankly, I'm a bit sceptical about the clone e3d v6 hotend. some forum said that many encounter problem with it. can you share some of your perspective?
    how's the realibility so far victor?

    • @vbared
      @vbared  ปีที่แล้ว

      Hello Muhammad, Thank you for commenting and you're most welcome. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time. Is your hotend the original one that came with your printer? If so watch these videos I made on how to make the stock hotend bullet proof. Make sure to use the thermal paste as I indicate in the second video if you stick with the stock setup with the Capricorn tube and apply the rest of the fixes I'm suggesting. If you want to ask me questions directly feel free to call me +1 478-227-3301
      Stock hotend with Capricorn bowden - th-cam.com/video/AEdca_-Nqys/w-d-xo.html
      Stock hotend with Slice Engineering bimetal heat break - th-cam.com/video/3v_cEldgT4U/w-d-xo.html
      The hotend I installed in the video is the authentic E3D V6 all metal hotend. I had a clone that I bought many years prior that I tried to install but it clogged about 20 minutes into my first test print. I cleared the clog and tried again with the same results, another clog. I would avoid the clones of the E3D V6 all-metal just buy it the authentic one. It's a bit pricey but super reliable. I haven't had to do anything to it since making this video on it, but prefer the quality of the stock hotend using Capricorn tube and fixes I show in the second video linked above.

    • @MHTSAPAS
      @MHTSAPAS ปีที่แล้ว

      I've been running clone E3DV6's since 2017. I made the mistake of buying an original E3DV6 and I have to say that I cannot tell the difference in print quality or problems in the slightest. The one thing about my E3DV6 Hotends (Clones) is that they were perfect. I recently purchased an Ender 3 and an Ender 3 V2 and I've basically had it. In the last month I've cleared more nozzle clogs and had to stop more prints due to extruder knocking than I have in years. I believe I have had 5 total clogs in my V6 clones since 2017 and besides the need to change the odd heater cartridge, nozzle or thermistor, the V6's get it done.
      If the V6 is too close to the nozzle it will push that filament out and keep going until it gets to a layer height that it can just print. If the leveling on my Ender 3 and V2 isn't spot on, the extruder will start knocking and even then, it could get to a certain height and decide it needs the Z slightly higher now.
      I put a E3DV6 in the Ender 3 V2 and it's been perfect prints since last weekend. This weekend will be the Ender 3 and the Ender 5 Plus. I'm going back to all V6 Hotends and never looking back.

    • @vbared
      @vbared  ปีที่แล้ว

      @@MHTSAPAS Hello MHTSAPAS, Thank you for commenting. I agree with you the MK8 that come stock on the Creality printers leave much room for improvements. They can be made reliable with a few tweaks but after experiencing the reliability of the E3D V6 all metal on one of my Ender 3 V2 I couldn't be happier. I recently had a buck board go out that was driving my Noctua fan on the E3D V6. Same as you, clicking extruder followed by a failed print, and the PETG fan assembly bracket distorted. Printed up another fan bracket on my other Ender, transferred all the fans to it, remounted everything, and wired my Noctua and mainboard fans in series to get each on 12 volts, fired up the printer, and it's been running without issues ever since. I have yet to take apart or even remove the E3D V6 from the gantry bracket since I made that video. I'm sold on the V6. My clones came from China in 2017 and we're sitting in box until I needed one. Unfortunately mine were duds.
      Best of luck with your mods!

  • @nickangelidis1792
    @nickangelidis1792 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Vic what about Y axis you made this modification to center the nozzle in the table?

    • @vbared
      @vbared  2 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Hi Nick, my apologies for the slow response. Please give me more details so I can understand your question.

    • @nickangelidis1792
      @nickangelidis1792 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@vbared i didn't understand why you change the sensor position...

    • @vbared
      @vbared  2 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      @@nickangelidis1792 OK, I understand now. The hotend adapter moves the new E3D V6 hotend 2mm more to the front than the original hotend. So to restore the original center position the y limit switch also needs to be moved 2mm to the front.

  • @jarrodcrase4562
    @jarrodcrase4562 11 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Hello Victor! hope you are well! I purchased a e3dy kingroon hotend for my ender 3v2 do you know if these measurements for your cr touch stl will work for it? i am thinking it will but just wanted to ask you! Thanks!

    • @vbared
      @vbared  11 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Hello Jarrod, Thank you for commenting. I am doing well, how about you? Please send me a link to the exact one you purchased so I can get an idea.
      Enjoy your day!

    • @jarrodcrase4562
      @jarrodcrase4562 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@vbared Victor I actually designed a cr touch plate for it but now I can’t get it to extrude, any pointers?

  • @burbycianburbycianovich9274
    @burbycianburbycianovich9274 ปีที่แล้ว

    Good day, I accidentally came across your channel and very sorry that it did not happen sooner)))). With great interest and pleasure watched almost all the clips dedicated to Ender 3V2 printers. If I may, a couple of small questions on the subject of this video. On the 15th minute of your video you start assembling the heatsink and fan bracket (there are several different versions of the part in the frame). However, this part is missing from the STL file archive. In your video "Creality Ender 3 V2 Minimalist Dual 4010 Parts Fans Fan Assembly Cover Design" there is a link to a very similar part E3V2 Minimalist Shroud Ver 2.stl, but it is obviously not suitable for E3D V6 radiator, скорее она предназначена MK8. First question - where can I get the stl file of the part? Or do I have to redraw it myself?)))
    And the second question. You use a 3-pin(!) Noctua NF-A4x10 fan to blow the heatsink while the standard fan is 2 pin. Do you control winding switching or use one speed and which one - 4500 or 3700 rpm? In that case, does it make sense to use a lower voltage of 9-10V?
    Sorry for the long text and sloppy English))) And once again, thank you very much for your hard work!)))

    • @vbared
      @vbared  ปีที่แล้ว

      Hello Бурбыциан Бурбыцианович, Thank you for your kind words and comments. I haven't designed a shroud cover for the E3D V6 fan bracket yet. If you are wanting the cover I'll design one to fit the V6. Currently, it's only available for the MK8 and Micro Swiss hotends. Will you be using an E3D V6? The yellow wire on the Noctua fan is a sensor wire that reports RPM so it's not used when it's mounting to an Ender 3 V2 since there is no place on the control board for it to connect. The Noctua fans are 12volts so you will need a buck converter to reduce the 24volts to 12volts the red and black wires are all that are needed to get the fan blowing at max speed. Your English is perfect I understand your questions. Send me an email to vbared@gmail.com so I can let you know when I finish designing the fan shroud to fit the V6.
      Best of luck with your mods!

    • @burbycianburbycianovich9274
      @burbycianburbycianovich9274 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks for the quick and detailed answer!))) With the stl model, I understood and also began to draw slowly. But if you take the trouble, then I will be immensely grateful to you, because 3D modeling is a completely new thing for me ... Yes, I want to get away from the MK8 and E3D the most successful of the cheap options, but I do not like that fan shroud it just fits on it and is not attached to the X-axis carriage in any way. As for the fan, I misled myself - I misread the description that the fan supports two speeds, and is not produced in two versions. Then everything is clear with wires and voltages, as you described. ))) Once again, thank you so much and success in educating the neophytes of shaping!))) P.S. It is equally convenient for me if you answer by mail or here ...

  • @onofrei_coffeeworkshop6466
    @onofrei_coffeeworkshop6466 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Hi Victor, do you think i can use this one on ender 3 v2 neo?. Thanks!

    • @vbared
      @vbared  10 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Hello onofrei_coffeeworkshop, Thank you for commenting. You can replace the X-gantry bracket with the one linked below for about $15 if yours doesn't look the same as it.
      a.co/d/43q4mFr

  • @Larry198s
    @Larry198s ปีที่แล้ว

    question dont you need too use buck converter too gain voltage on that silent fan ?

    • @vbared
      @vbared  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Hi Larry, Sorry about the slow response, I'm in the process of moving. The super quiet Noctua fans run on 12v but the power supply puts out 24v so a buck converter can dial down the voltage to the 12v needed for the Noctua fan.
      Best of luck with your mods!

    • @Larry198s
      @Larry198s ปีที่แล้ว

      @@vbared its ok thanks for reply, just one last thing I have cr10s pro v2 and its 24v control box, so is it ok too use those silent fans on it with out using buck converters, I dont want too shorten the fans and take your time too reply 👍

    • @vbared
      @vbared  ปีที่แล้ว

      @@Larry198s Hi Larry, I followed this video tutorial when I upgraded mine.
      th-cam.com/video/lde-SSY4vtw/w-d-xo.html

  • @cassianomartin2699
    @cassianomartin2699 ปีที่แล้ว

    Wouldn't be better to use ABS for the fan shroud? Anyways thanks for sharing your experience, looking to buy a v6 for my ender too!

    • @vbared
      @vbared  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Hello Cassiano, Thank you for commenting. I use PETG, it prints clean with a well tuned machine, resists warping, has no noticable odor when printing, and doesn't require an enclosure. The authentic E3D V6 all metal hotend has been bulletproof for me. No issues whatsoever since I installed it on this video and it prints constantly.
      Best of luck with your mods!

  • @jameslee6881
    @jameslee6881 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    beautiful sir I just happen to have a brand set in the box going to need to utilize this wishing you had the Briss fang duct set up but wow just wow.
    I do have a question which version firmware are you running jeyers perhaps?

    • @vbared
      @vbared  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Hello James, Thank you for commenting and kind words of encouragement. I'm glad you found value for your viewing time. Yes, I'm running the Jyers firmware.
      Best of luck with your build!

    • @jameslee6881
      @jameslee6881 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@vbared Thank you sir

    • @jameslee6881
      @jameslee6881 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@vbared sir I have the Briss Fang duct set up I purchased the stls for I currently have the swiss dd setup and was hoping you might be able to create some stl's to work with my combo and the e3d hotend I'd pay you for your time.

    • @vbared
      @vbared  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@jameslee6881 Hello James, Thanks again for commenting. I'll look into it but the E3D hotend on the adapter is 5mm further away from the carriage plate than the MK8 hotend so the feed tube coming from the Micro Swiss Direct Drive will not line up. Are you using the Micro Swiss direct drive bracket or something else?

    • @jameslee6881
      @jameslee6881 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@vbared micro swiss bracket sir I am willing to share the briss fang files with you it utilizes 2 40x40 fans as well

  • @jcfpv3454
    @jcfpv3454 ปีที่แล้ว

    My Microswiss hotend is only a couple months old maybe has 200 hrs on it did the same thing came loose but I couldn't see it because of satsana fan holder and by Time I seen it had completely ruined the heater block threads I am contemplating changing to a sprite pro

    • @vbared
      @vbared  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Hi JC, Yeah, I was pretty disappointed with the Micro Swiss all metal hot end. The issue with that heat block working its way loose is a serious design flaw. You're right when the blowout happens many other parts get messed up. I don't have any experience with the Sprite Pro but can tell you that the E3D V6 all metal hotend I've been running on my machine in this video hasn't had a single issue since it was installed and can run at 100mm/s using Klipper. I have a Bondtech nozzle on the way to see how much more I can get out of it. I'll make a video on it when it arrives.
      Best of luck with your mods!

    • @jcfpv3454
      @jcfpv3454 ปีที่แล้ว

      I greatly appreciate your time and advice before seeing your reply I grabbed a e3d v6 hotend kit and hopefully can set it up soon I heard the sprite and pro during fast printing ruins the pcb board and people having issues with the plugs coming out I really wanted something that works everytime. You would think M.s. would upgrade that area thanks.

  • @JustCreateYou
    @JustCreateYou ปีที่แล้ว

    For me using the 12v noctua fans for hotend for my fang . Do I need a buck converter still to use them ?? Because I can't find a step to step guide anywhere. Like visually

    • @vbared
      @vbared  ปีที่แล้ว

      Hi Abel, Thank you for commenting. What printer are you using? If it's a Creality Ender 3 V2 then the main board and hotend fans are each 24volts and turn on whenever the printer is switched on. What you can do is get another 12volt Noctua fan to replace the main board one. Wire the fans together in series connected to the wire coming from the main board that powered the stock 24volt extruder fan. Wired this way each will get 1/2 of the 24volts which is 12volts each. Link to a picture is below.
      images.app.goo.gl/wVwx1LPHumPPpTxVA
      Best of luck with your mods!

  • @pedrolopez-mu3ky
    @pedrolopez-mu3ky ปีที่แล้ว

    Coud not make mine work, it kept clogging at the tube Even at the lowest temperatures for the material, pla and PETG, both failed, Ender 3, e3d v6, direct extruder. Any advice?

    • @vbared
      @vbared  ปีที่แล้ว

      Hello Pedro, Did you buy the E3D V6 all-metal hotend using my link or directly from E3D? The reason I ask is because there are many knock offs of this hot end. I had the same experience with a clone that I bought from eBay.

  • @jonathanwebb5138
    @jonathanwebb5138 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Do you have a version of this for 5015 part cooling fans?

    • @vbared
      @vbared  10 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Hi Jonathan, Thank you for commenting. I'll have to check to see if I can make those fans work with this setup. Give me some time to play around with the design, I'll see what I can come up with. Have you tried this setup with the 4010 fans? The duct design is super efficient at focusing the airflow at just the right place.

  • @makergc3d
    @makergc3d 10 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Hi Victor! I'm going to mount a E3D V6 to my Ender 3v2 and simultaneously convert my extruder to direct drive. Will the shroud need to be modified in any way to accommodate the direct drive configuration? Tyia.

    • @vbared
      @vbared  10 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Hello Maker GC3D, thank you for commenting and supporting my work. Please link the direct drive setup you're getting so I can have a look at it to be sure it will work.

    • @makergc3d
      @makergc3d 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@vbared Hi Victor, Apparently TH-cam will not send replies with urls. Tried twice previously. Here are the descriptors from Amzn. (Genuine E3D V6 Full - Direct - 24V- Hotend, Compatible With The Full V6 Ecosystem And Many Other 3D Printers (M6 Thread)); (UniTak3D Ender 3 Direct Drive Upgrade Conversion Bracket for Ender 3 V2,Ender 3 Pro and Voxelab Aquila 3D Printer for B-MG&Dual Gear&Bowden Extruder(NOT for Neo Series,Extruder&Hotend NOT Include)); (5Aplusreprap Dual Gear Ender 3 Extruder Compatible for Creality Ender-3 V2 Ender-3 Pro CR10/10S 3D Printer,Dual Hardened Steel Drive Gear Extruder 1.75mm Filament (Motor Shaft>20mm), Metal/Blue). Looking forward to your input.

    • @vbared
      @vbared  10 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@makergc3d Good morning, I believe I'm looking at the correct version. You can email me vbared@gmail.com to be sure. The flat side of the stepper is to the left and the gear side is to the right? The whole thing mounts to a plate that sits about 30mm over the hotend? The only thing that might be a problem is the alignment of the short bowden tube if you go with the E3D V6 hotend because it mounts a few millimeters forward of the stock position. I recently created a hybrid hotend that uses the Micro Swiss heatsink and titanium heat break with a genuine E3D V6 heat block, nozzle and sleeved thermistor. Doing it this way will preserve the factory position while giving you the benefits of an E3D V6 hotend.

  • @doyouhearwhatisee9500
    @doyouhearwhatisee9500 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    How did you use the fan listed that noctua is a 12v fan?

    • @vbared
      @vbared  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Hello Do You Hear What I See, Thànk you for commenting. I used a buck converter to adjust the voltage down to 12 so I could use the Noctua 4010 fans. The Ender 3 V2 has only one fan that runs on 12 volts and it's located inside the power supply.
      This is my video that upgrades the noisy 24 volt fans to Noctuas.
      th-cam.com/video/ycvHpMbo5Hw/w-d-xo.html
      Best of luck with your build!

  • @jcfpv3454
    @jcfpv3454 ปีที่แล้ว

    Do you have the fan shroud and holder parts

    • @vbared
      @vbared  ปีที่แล้ว

      Hi JC, All of the mounting parts are included with the $3.49 E3D V6 fan bracket and ducts purchase. The fan shroud is the only thing I didn't design for E3D kit because there isn't enough clearance due to the E3D V6 being wider than the stock MK8. To get enough clearance to fit a cover the CR-Touch bracket needs to be moved left another 2mm.

  • @AZWildk4t
    @AZWildk4t 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I’m having similar issues. My problem is the grub screw will not tighten. I’m not sure if its causing my filament to not come out the nozzle

    • @vbared
      @vbared  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hello AZWildk4t, Are you using the stock hotend?

    • @AZWildk4t
      @AZWildk4t 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@vbared no. i am using the micro-swiss all metal hotend and the Capricorn ptfe.

  • @user-spv96x3x7i.4kc
    @user-spv96x3x7i.4kc ปีที่แล้ว +1

    thank you

    • @vbared
      @vbared  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Hello Peace Brother, Thank you for commenting. I'm glad you found value in this video for your viewing time.
      Best of luck with your mods!

  • @madorax251
    @madorax251 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    What retaction distance and retraction speed your using for allmetal hotend?

    • @vbared
      @vbared  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hi Robby, Thanks again for commenting. I use 25mms retraction speed and 6mm retraction distance using the stock MK8 stock Creality, Micro Swiss all-metal, and E3D V6 all-metal hot ends using SUNLU PETG in black. These setting might work for the other colors that SUNLU makes if they are formulated the same but I can't confirm since I've only printed in black since dialing them in.
      SUNLU PETG - amzn.to/3IOo4Q8
      Best of luck with your tweaks!

  • @runbuh
    @runbuh 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I wish TH-cam would let me post links. Oh well. I've got this printed up pretty well. I used Cura to make a bigger notch for the screw (which is a nut and washer on mine), and I added a post between the outer wall, and the curved wall, on each side. Hopefully, I won't snap an outer wall again while trying to assemble this.

    • @vbared
      @vbared  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hello Run, email me the link vbared@gmail.com so I can see what's happening.

  • @chunikus
    @chunikus ปีที่แล้ว

    Para que le echas pasta térmica a la boquilla?

    • @vbared
      @vbared  ปีที่แล้ว

      Hola Juan, Gracias por comentar. La pasta térmica mejora la transferencia de calor del bloque a la boquilla rellenando los huecos de rosca. También agregarlo a la parte del lado de rotura de calor que se atornilla en el disipador de calor aleja el calor de la rotura de calor y lo lleva al disipador de calor donde el ventilador puede enfriar rápidamente las aletas. Si te diste cuenta, no agregué ninguna pasta a la parte de la rotura de calor que se atornilla en el bloque de calor porque no quiero maximizar la transferencia de calor allí. ¡Mucha suerte con tus mods!

  • @deucedeuce1572
    @deucedeuce1572 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I went to print something, but forgot that I had to modify the parts and re-slice them and all that... so my printer remained on (pre-heated) but without printing anything and that caused a serious, impossible to fix clog. The PLA+ filament at the end near the extruder tip turned into a rock. I wish I had known that before trying to back the filament out, because pulling on it from the other end like I normally do to change the filament (because that's what I was doing) caused the hardened filament to completely jam up, which made it impossible to move in either direction. Had to damage my bowden tube to get it out. It's still working, so I'm lucky I don't have to immediately replace it and can get it running for now while I wait... but it's a good lesson on why to never leave the machine running/idling with it preheated.

    • @vbared
      @vbared  2 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      Wow, I haven't had that experience yet, are you running Marlin firmware? Look into Klipper, as it shuts down the hotend and bed if the machine isn't printing after a certain amount of time. I've switched all of my machines to it. It's super easy to make changes to the firmware, no flashing required just a restart so upgrades are a snap.

    • @deucedeuce1572
      @deucedeuce1572 2 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@vbared Appreciate the info. Might not have been so terribly hard if I had just removed the tip and pulled it out the front, but I started pulling it out the back like I normally do and that completely jammed it up. On one hand it turned into this extremely thick goo (like pitch) while at the same time a mass of it turned into an extremely hard rock. I even had a hard time crushing it with pliers.

    • @vbared
      @vbared  2 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      @@deucedeuce1572 Great job persevering through that issue. It was probably one of the nastiest clogs you'll ever have to deal with and now you know how to solve it.

  • @KennethScharf
    @KennethScharf ปีที่แล้ว

    Why re-use the hot end cooling fan from the ender? Why not use the clip on fan that comes with the E6D V6? (at least the original one comes with one, clones might not).
    One of the fans you listed (extruder cooler) is 12V. Shouldn't it be 24 volt?

    • @vbared
      @vbared  ปีที่แล้ว

      Hi Kenneth, Thanks for commenting. I'm actually using ultra quiet Noctua fans wherever I can on my printers to cut down noise. That are a bit bigger than the clip on fan that came with the E3D V6 hotend kit. The Noctua fans have been working flawlessly for me. I don't care for their almond color. I would have preferred them in black.
      Enjoy your day!

  • @madorax251
    @madorax251 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Cant your share cura seting your using for print pla and petg

    • @vbared
      @vbared  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hello Robby, Thank you for commenting. Unfortunately I don't use PLA only PETG but my settings for SUNLU PETG in black is spot on if using the stock MK8 stock Creality, Micro Swiss all-metal, and E3D V6 all-metal hot ends. Link to the PETG these settings are for along with my Cura profiles. One is 25mm/s for small parts and 50mms for everything else.
      SUNLU PETG - amzn.to/3IOo4Q8
      My Cura Profiles - drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=15TONyxjzlEjhs11d-fhOYoXU8AIPSHHz
      Best of luck with your build!

  • @sschriner
    @sschriner ปีที่แล้ว

    Do you have the stl for the filament spool?

    • @vbared
      @vbared  ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Hello Shawn, Thank you for commenting. The link to the spool files I currently use are below.
      drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=158Hi0USdzBbiXl3nJAXMLx6-LQmfR9dX

    • @sschriner
      @sschriner ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@vbared Thanks Victor.

    • @vbared
      @vbared  ปีที่แล้ว

      @@sschriner Anytime friend

  • @pacocable
    @pacocable 7 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Me podria indicar para montarlo en una ender 3 neo? Muy agradecido de antemano

    • @vbared
      @vbared  7 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Hola pacocable, Gracias por comentar. Necesitará las siguientes partes.
      amzn.to/3E1ZkUp
      amzn.to/3KRNCPP
      amzn.to/3YIJjMs
      amzn.to/3KOKYua
      amzn.to/3QRaB1g
      victor-bared.myshopify.com/products/minimalist-e3d-v6-fans-bracket-and-ducts-for-dual-4010-blowers-single-4010-or-4020-heatsink-fan-stl-files-for-diy-3d-printing
      th-cam.com/video/m_0vnfnbCv0/w-d-xo.html

  • @HoppeTheZ
    @HoppeTheZ ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks!

    • @vbared
      @vbared  ปีที่แล้ว

      You're most welcome (:

  • @Rampio-yj7mk
    @Rampio-yj7mk 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Would be awesome if you could create something for the new sprite extruders

    • @vbared
      @vbared  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Hello Rampio, Thank you for commenting. Are you talking about the S1?

    • @Rampio-yj7mk
      @Rampio-yj7mk 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@vbared yeah! Hopefully make it compatible with the sprite pro (all metal version of s1 extruder).

  • @boriskusic7050
    @boriskusic7050 4 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Tried to buy from your link...it says SOLD OUT! ?? It made me thinking....how digital files meant for download can be sold out?🙂🙃

    • @vbared
      @vbared  4 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Hi Boris,
      Thank you for considering supporting my work. It should be fixed now.
      It's some silly setting that I missed. Shopify makes you specify a number of units to sell but there is a toggle that says continue to sell if inventory is depleted. I agree with you, it doesn't make sense to have inventory for a digital product.

    • @boriskusic7050
      @boriskusic7050 4 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      @@vbared Done! Thank you👍

    • @vbared
      @vbared  4 หลายเดือนก่อน

      @@boriskusic7050 Thank you, Boris, let me know if you have any questions.

  • @stevesweb
    @stevesweb 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I like this setup much better. I may have to get it too. I have the other shroud but I'm having trouble printing PETG. I'll get it eventually. I'm also interested in your bed camera mount and spool holder. Are these custom designed?

    • @vbared
      @vbared  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hello Steves Web, Thank you for commenting and supporting my work. What's the problem you're having with the print? Tell me about your current setup. What's the printer model, and hotend you're using? If it's the stock MK8 or Micro Swiss all metal hotend then try and use my Cura profile so get a successful PETG print.
      My Cura Profile - drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=14hmVSJEOmKcxfNgj4ohfMzaXZERC2CSu
      Spool related files - drive.google.com/uc?export=download&id=158Hi0USdzBbiXl3nJAXMLx6-LQmfR9dX
      Camera mount - www.thingiverse.com/thing:4761307

    • @jameslee6881
      @jameslee6881 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@vbared your engagement with viewers is one of my favorite things about you besides being so meticulous.

    • @vbared
      @vbared  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@jameslee6881 Thank you James, I enjoy the interactions with viewers that I share similar interests with. It makes this hobby a lot of fun for me.

    • @stevesweb
      @stevesweb 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@vbared Thanks for the reply and files! Not sure I have ever received such a great reply. I am running a Voxelab Aquila (Ender 3 V2 Clone) with the std hotend and Capricorn tube to the nozzel. Alex's fork of Jyers UI. The couple of times I tried to print it (my first time with PETG, I bought it for this) the bottom bowed up on all for corners. I really think my room was to cold and caused some shrinkage after printing about a third of the shroud. Winter issues. lol. I plan to warm the room up and use a brim. I was also sent a bad CR Touch and dealing with that. They are sending a replacement. I will defiantly try your Cura profile. I really like Cura 4.13.0.

    • @vbared
      @vbared  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@stevesweb Try stick glue on your build plate. The best surface I've found for PETG is Garolite (G10) if adding the brim doesn't get you a successful print. I added it to both my Ender 3 V2s, it's that good. The bed has to be hot too 80 is what I set my Garolite build surface to.
      If you haven't already seen my video on it check this out when you have some free time.
      th-cam.com/video/MB-91rfvWfE/w-d-xo.html
      This is the PETG filament brand that I have had great success with - amzn.to/3HaOwD7
      It looks like they are currently out of black only but have other colors in stock of black combined with another color.
      Garolite that I use - www.mcmaster.com/85345K611/

  • @EndSky.official
    @EndSky.official ปีที่แล้ว

    but mine is stuck when loading

    • @vbared
      @vbared  ปีที่แล้ว

      Hello Ender Gaming 91, Thank you for commenting. Did you buy yours directly from E3D using the link for it in the description?

  • @ahow8017
    @ahow8017 2 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Thread lock probably will not be effective due to the temperature of the heat block. I have to remove bolts from a lot of things that have had all sorts of thread locker applied. A little heat from a butane pencil torch and the fasteners just screw out with little too no resistance.

    • @vbared
      @vbared  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Hello A How 80, Thank you for commenting and information on thread lock not being the solution. Slice has a paste they use to set their heater cartridge in their heat block. What I don't like about it is that it's permanent. Thankfully I haven't had any problems with the E3D V6 all metal hot end. It's working beautifully. I attribute this trouble free performance to it's excellent design. My Micro Swiss all metal hotend is also behaving for now. It's the one I've had the most trouble with the block loosening from the heat break.
      Best of luck with your projects!

    • @opensourceeducated2862
      @opensourceeducated2862 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@vbared coppaslip is copper engine anti-sieze grease. Use it on the threaded heartbreak side & other nozzle threads. Just not the threads on the heat break going into the heater block

    • @vbared
      @vbared  ปีที่แล้ว

      @@opensourceeducated2862 Hello, Thank you for commenting and info on Copaslip. I've been looking for something to use on the nozzle threads that can hold up to high temps.
      Best of luck with your mods!

  • @Turquoise-Turtle-Gaming
    @Turquoise-Turtle-Gaming ปีที่แล้ว

    use a direct drive, it will help, also why didn't you just change the position of the build plate to center it in the hardware, there was no need to move the limit switch, your only making the printer think there is more build plate room than there really is now.

    • @vbared
      @vbared  ปีที่แล้ว

      Hello Hedgehog, Thank you for commenting. The limit switches are used by the printer as a starting point for each axis. When the printer is homed it records those limit switch positions as zero and then applies the build volume from there. The firmware and slicer control the build volume.
      Best of luck with your mods!

  • @alexivanov6112
    @alexivanov6112 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Отлично!

    • @vbared
      @vbared  ปีที่แล้ว

      Здравствуйте Алексей Иванов, Спасибо за комментарий. Я рад, что вы нашли ценность в этом видео для вашего времени просмотра.
      Удачи в ваших модах!

    • @alexivanov6112
      @alexivanov6112 ปีที่แล้ว

      Здравствуйте , думаю какой купить 3D принтер для дома, это будет первый принтер.

    • @vbared
      @vbared  ปีที่แล้ว

      Какие из них вы рассматриваете?

    • @alexivanov6112
      @alexivanov6112 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@vbared KINGROON KP5L , Creality Ender-3 V2, CREALITY Ender 3 .

    • @vbared
      @vbared  ปีที่แล้ว

      Обратите внимание на Ender 3 Max Neo, если вам нужен больший объем сборки, но при этом у вас есть вся поддержка сообщества Ender 3 V2 или Ender 3 V2, если у вас ограниченный бюджет. На данный момент лучшей прошивкой для Ender 3 V2, Ender 3 Max Neo и Ender 3 S1, отличной от Klipper, является профессиональная прошивка Мигеля. Эта замечательная прошивка несовместима со стандартным Ender 3 или Kingroon KP5L. Очень важно иметь доступ к хорошей прошивке, которая постоянно развивается.

  • @burbycianburbycianovich9274
    @burbycianburbycianovich9274 ปีที่แล้ว

    Greetings Victor! Let me ask you a "childish" question. Ender 3 printer, there is a significant negative error in the Z axis of about 10% along the entire length of the propeller. To correct the error, I used an uncalculated Z step/mm = 381 (400 by default), but I was practically pecked and stomped on on a topic forum for it. I understand perfectly well that integer and multiple numbers of step factors are set by the geometry of the propeller and the angle of rotation of the motor shaft. But what to do if for some reason the formula and reality are at variance? And here, as it seems to me(!), the correction factor in the control program is an excellent tool or an excellent crutch, whatever you like, which helps to solve the problem. Shouts "deal with mechanics", with all their fidelity, do not answer the question, where and what is wrong with this mechanics and boils down to replacement of screw or nut, or maybe something else. Whereas the adjustable link in the chain perfectly solves the problems of errors of all other links. Sorry for the long wording, but I want to understand the logic. And actually the question itself, how to get rid of the error in the Z-axis? I will be grateful to you for any answer!)))

    • @vbared
      @vbared  ปีที่แล้ว

      Hello Burbycian Burbycianovich, Thank you for commenting. If I'm understanding what you are saying, before changing the z axis step values I would first make sure that your z-offset is spot on. If you are too low your objects will be short on the z axis. Changing the x,y, and z steps to get super accurate small prints will produce highly inaccurate large prints. They will be much smaller. Hopefully I understood your question.
      Best of luck with your projects!

    • @burbycianburbycianovich9274
      @burbycianburbycianovich9274 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks for the quick response! And I hope I understood your answer.) I understood your point as accuracy on small dimensions does not guarantee accuracy on larger dimensions. Yes, I understand that. Let me put it simply - is it possible to fight the Z-axis error by changing the Zstep/mm coefficient? And if this method is indispensable, what should I do - should I replace the stem screw/nut, watch the voltage on the stepper motor drivers or something else?
      Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version)

    • @vbared
      @vbared  ปีที่แล้ว

      @@burbycianburbycianovich9274 Good morning, What machine are you using?

    • @burbycianburbycianovich9274
      @burbycianburbycianovich9274 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@vbared Good day to you too!)) Ender 3 Pro printer with Creality 4.2.7 (Marlin 2.1.1) + BLTouch, voltages on drivers were not changed, all assembled neatly, carriage movements are smooth and light. Yes, the Z axis motor is on an aluminum bracket attached to the vertical frame profile. The printer is used to print household stuff, small decor and toys for the baby, mostly PLA and some PETG.

    • @vbared
      @vbared  ปีที่แล้ว

      @@burbycianburbycianovich9274 Hello, I came across this mod, just ordered the parts, and download the files. It should improve the z-axis accuracy by doing away with the lead screw, replacing it with belts, and a transmission.
      kevinakasam.com/find-your-config/
      Best of luck with your mods!

  • @runbuh
    @runbuh 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Trust me when I say this: when you are working on your fan connections, make sure you work while the printer is OFF (preferably unplugged), and don't turn it on until you're sure you're got everything wired up correctly. Otherwise, you might blow a surface mount pico fuze, which pretty much forces you to replace the main board (unless you're really good at soldering surface mount components). $50.00 down the tubes.

    • @vbared
      @vbared  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hi Run, I'm sorry that happened to you.