Chris this was a great tutorial in Fusion, and I liked your comment about not adding the standoffs for the BTT board, lets not complicate it - we will save that for later. Glad to see that even an expert has to go through multiple iterations to get it correct. I usually take a lot more.
Well this just came at the perfect time. After fighting with a printer all day trying to save the OEM board I've decided to replace it with an M5P. The adapter is going to make things MUCH simpler. thank you for this video.
One thing you can do, if you have an accurate image is scale the image in Fusion360. I forget the feature name, but it takes two points on the image and the measurement you give it between those two points and scales the image properly. One way to do this is to scan the object and a ruler on a flatbed scanner. In this case it seems like you could use the motherboard image and measure how big it is across to get this done.
#Chris Riley First of all I like your videos, Very helpful Thank you. I was wondering how to get my print bed to move to the front when I hit pause. Simplify3d, skr3mini, marlin & Visual Studio Code, ender 3 profile. either in the uncompiled data or in my slicer. Thanks
Rather than design for captive nuts, why not size the holes for heat sets? OR design those nut holes so the hex holes are totally inside the part. Then pause the print to insert the nuts, then allow the printer to cover the tops of the nuts with the last few layers. I've done that for the screw knobs holding the bed onto my printer.
This is a basics series. I imagine heated inserts would be a later entry in the series. He is not building ideal parts. He's building institutional knowledge in the new user
I simply do not get why people call for heated inserts at all. Not for this type of part. Nuts and screws for this type of print is available locally everywhere and is cheap. It requires no post processing at all.
@@FrodeBergetonNilsen For the purposes of this video, yes nuts are fine. Now that I've built a Voron printer, I've become exposed to other construction options and have the tools to make use of them.
@@KennethScharf Sure. But even then, you should not use them in this use case, as this is size restricted. Hard to beat 2,4mm. As for using inserts for everything, like Voron does, is well, nuts. The threading used are way too small, so offer the strength when needed, and for the most part, for smaller screws, you really want bigger threading for a plastic base.
Because not everyone has heat set inserts... I can go to the hardware store and buy nuts and bolts in the size I need. For heat set inserts, I need packs for each size of machine screw I use and I need said machine screws. You can do a captive nut or design it inside of the part but that's more advanced cad design in my opinion but are a great option.
Still not even trying to design symmetrically using the origin. You still don't lock your sketch, which is pretty easy to spot, as it is kind of blue. Watching this, I realize how people get these ridiculous long history lines, like in this case, using move instead of extrude offset, you even end up re-adjusting to get the same height. This is very far from good design practice, and is how you should not design. Also, sketching on surfaces is also poor practice, and should be avoided if you can: If you alter the design, you'll quickly learn why. If this is how people actually design their parts, I kind of get why they only share step files. This video is fine to get people going, but it is poor design, done the wrong way. I started out doing all these mistakes, but there is very few sources with good simple explanations that shows you why best practice is just that, and why best practice is dependent on the model. But at least locking in the sketch so it turns black, is kind of the basic of basics of modeling.
Chris this was a great tutorial in Fusion, and I liked your comment about not adding the standoffs for the BTT board, lets not complicate it - we will save that for later. Glad to see that even an expert has to go through multiple iterations to get it correct. I usually take a lot more.
Well this just came at the perfect time. After fighting with a printer all day trying to save the OEM board I've decided to replace it with an M5P. The adapter is going to make things MUCH simpler. thank you for this video.
One thing you can do, if you have an accurate image is scale the image in Fusion360. I forget the feature name, but it takes two points on the image and the measurement you give it between those two points and scales the image properly. One way to do this is to scan the object and a ruler on a flatbed scanner. In this case it seems like you could use the motherboard image and measure how big it is across to get this done.
Great video. As I prefer FOSS, I really like FreeCAD. I'd love to see you do some of these videos based on FreeCAD rather than Fusion 360.
Please do an episode, or short, on printing TPU on the Prusa MK 3.
Some of their boards also have STEP format to import into CAD.
#Chris Riley First of all I like your videos, Very helpful Thank you.
I was wondering how to get my print bed to move to the front when I hit pause. Simplify3d, skr3mini, marlin & Visual Studio Code, ender 3 profile. either in the uncompiled data or in my slicer. Thanks
You’ll have to change the park location in Marlin (and thus have to compile it yourself)
It is easy to do in Klipper using a macro.
Rather than design for captive nuts, why not size the holes for heat sets?
OR design those nut holes so the hex holes are totally inside the part. Then pause the print to insert the nuts, then allow the printer to cover the tops of the nuts with the last few layers. I've done that for the screw knobs holding the bed onto my printer.
This is a basics series. I imagine heated inserts would be a later entry in the series. He is not building ideal parts. He's building institutional knowledge in the new user
I simply do not get why people call for heated inserts at all. Not for this type of part. Nuts and screws for this type of print is available locally everywhere and is cheap. It requires no post processing at all.
@@FrodeBergetonNilsen For the purposes of this video, yes nuts are fine. Now that I've built a Voron printer, I've become exposed to other construction options and have the tools to make use of them.
@@KennethScharf Sure. But even then, you should not use them in this use case, as this is size restricted. Hard to beat 2,4mm. As for using inserts for everything, like Voron does, is well, nuts. The threading used are way too small, so offer the strength when needed, and for the most part, for smaller screws, you really want bigger threading for a plastic base.
Because not everyone has heat set inserts... I can go to the hardware store and buy nuts and bolts in the size I need. For heat set inserts, I need packs for each size of machine screw I use and I need said machine screws.
You can do a captive nut or design it inside of the part but that's more advanced cad design in my opinion but are a great option.
Still not even trying to design symmetrically using the origin. You still don't lock your sketch, which is pretty easy to spot, as it is kind of blue. Watching this, I realize how people get these ridiculous long history lines, like in this case, using move instead of extrude offset, you even end up re-adjusting to get the same height. This is very far from good design practice, and is how you should not design. Also, sketching on surfaces is also poor practice, and should be avoided if you can: If you alter the design, you'll quickly learn why. If this is how people actually design their parts, I kind of get why they only share step files. This video is fine to get people going, but it is poor design, done the wrong way.
I started out doing all these mistakes, but there is very few sources with good simple explanations that shows you why best practice is just that, and why best practice is dependent on the model. But at least locking in the sketch so it turns black, is kind of the basic of basics of modeling.