Enjoyed. The Ironworker pointed me in your direction and I'm glad he gave you a shout out. Looking forward to browsing your back catalogue. Keep up the good work.
@@deedeeindustrialsuperprecision can you tell me are do a video on the setup and what both dial’s do on the hone the top one is pressure right? What is the very bottom one do? I have my first sunnen LBB-1699k rod hone and there is no video’s on how to set it up!
@@cdpperformance2613 The top dial is light pressure, the bottom one is heavy pressure. They say to start with light pressure with the bottom dial on off, if not enough use the bottom dial with the top one on off. Be sure to get the manual and go through the adjustments of the machine to make the pressure dials operate correctly. I will make a video on that soon.
@@cdpperformance2613 The upper dial is for light stone pressure, the lower for heavy stone pressure. The light pressure should be used first if not enough the lower heavy pressure dial is used. Early machines have only the lower dial. Go through the manual for basic machine adjustments so everything operates smoothly.
I kept flubbing videos honing the rod set, then started on the old rod with softer races and overshot it. I think you will find the next video interesting going to the next step lapping.
I have a sunnen hone that I am going to hone 2 cycle engine cylinders with. They are 1.920 to 1.980 bore size. What mandrel would recommend to make sure I end up with a round bore with no taper. I am not sure if I should use the CR1900 mandrel or the 3PL1875. Can you please give my your thoughts.
In that size range a solid P type mandrel using a single stone may work depending on ports. The other type using a double stone may be needed to bridge gaps, called a rod honing mandrel in the automotive catalog or a keyway mandrel in the Sunnen industrial catalog. I found Sunnen very helpful and likely to know the mandrel you need for that application.
Dee Dee since this is the only way i know to communicate with you, I'll the question here. Have you ever needed to build up machine ways such as the saddle on a lathe? I am getting ready to do the saddle on my Clausing 5913 and plan on using a product called Moglice. Any advice would be treasured.
There is an email off my home page click on "about" I will try to test it, I have a horrible internet provider, When I started out in this field I worked in shops that worked mostly on agriculture and logging, the shops here "now gone" had really worn equipment with usually one fair condition midsize gearhead lathe. I have never seen a machine shop in my region rebuild a machine because it does not pencil out. I became used to using worn out machines. The newer Monarch 10ee in my garage has very wear at all, but you still have to make it work it.
@@deedeeindustrialsuperprecision Okay I will check out the email address. My Clausing 5913 still has a pretty good bed but the saddle has a lot of wear on it. I have taken it down to the bare bones and now am going back together with it. Sort of my sanity project. With my health issues rebuilding the old jewels keeps me going. I am sure you can relate. Thanks for the quick reply.
I can call out the #, the stone is coarse because the finish will be lapped, it is better not to have a super fine hone finish before lapping to help seat the lap. There are two systems with Sunnen Automotive and Industrial with the industrial side offering more stone types and tools.
Hi, I slip a truing sleeve over the mandrel, depress the pedal until the brake releases and then advance the stones with the dial until they grab. Then an indicator can be placed on the truing sleeve and the mandrel rotated and trued up with the 4 screws on the spindle, thanks for tuning in.
Outstanding!! Old good sunnens ... The precision felt thru sensation, you can't get that using cnc equipment!!
Should keep quiet about this secret weapon and the black art of Sunnen honing that has been only for the enlightened for a hundred years!
Enjoyed. The Ironworker pointed me in your direction and I'm glad he gave you a shout out. Looking forward to browsing your back catalogue. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for coming
brilliant ! we don't see this done every day. thank you for this video ! you a treasure !
Thanks, I found it hard to video that machine,
@@deedeeindustrialsuperprecision can you tell me are do a video on the setup and what both dial’s do on the hone the top one is pressure right? What is the very bottom one do? I have my first sunnen LBB-1699k rod hone and there is no video’s on how to set it up!
@@cdpperformance2613 The top dial is light pressure, the bottom one is heavy pressure. They say to start with light pressure with the bottom dial on off, if not enough use the bottom dial with the top one on off.
Be sure to get the manual and go through the adjustments of the machine to make the pressure dials operate correctly. I will make a video on that soon.
@@cdpperformance2613 The upper dial is for light stone pressure, the lower for heavy stone pressure. The light pressure should be used first if not enough the lower heavy pressure dial is used. Early machines have only the lower dial. Go through the manual for basic machine adjustments so everything operates smoothly.
I always thought honing and stopping were the same thing. It's nice to hear the rest of the story.
Hi, thanks for tuning in!
Thanks Dee Dee good demo.
You are so welcome
I can see that you really need to have a sensitive feel for doing this, you could take off too much material really quickly. Thanks again for sharing!
I kept flubbing videos honing the rod set, then started on the old rod with softer races and overshot it. I think you will find the next video interesting going to the next step lapping.
Looks like a lot of fun DeeDee. Clearly you are in your element. I have no doubt you made a lot of $ with that hone.
The Sunnen hone has to be one of the strangest machines ever. Not much info on them but used in industry, mine was out of Northrup Grumman.
Is there any significant difference between the Sunnen Red "Automotive" machines and the Gray "Industrial" machines?
Not much that I can see, thanks!
I have a sunnen hone that I am going to hone 2 cycle engine cylinders with. They are 1.920 to 1.980 bore size. What mandrel would recommend to make sure I end up with a round bore with no taper. I am not sure if I should use the CR1900 mandrel or the 3PL1875. Can you please give my your thoughts.
In that size range a solid P type mandrel using a single stone may work depending on ports. The other type using a double stone may be needed to bridge gaps, called a rod honing mandrel in the automotive catalog or a keyway mandrel in the Sunnen industrial catalog. I found Sunnen very helpful and likely to know the mandrel you need for that application.
@@deedeeindustrialsuperprecision Thank you for your input and time.
Dee Dee since this is the only way i know to communicate with you, I'll the question here. Have you ever needed to build up machine ways such as the saddle on a lathe? I am getting ready to do the saddle on my Clausing 5913 and plan on using a product called Moglice. Any advice would be treasured.
There is an email off my home page click on "about" I will try to test it, I have a horrible internet provider, When I started out in this field I worked in shops that worked mostly on agriculture and logging, the shops here "now gone" had really worn equipment with usually one fair condition midsize gearhead lathe. I have never seen a machine shop in my region rebuild a machine because it does not pencil out. I became used to using worn out machines.
The newer Monarch 10ee in my garage has very wear at all, but you still have to make it work it.
@@deedeeindustrialsuperprecision Okay I will check out the email address. My Clausing 5913 still has a pretty good bed but the saddle has a lot of wear on it. I have taken it down to the bare bones and now am going back together with it. Sort of my sanity project. With my health issues rebuilding the old jewels keeps me going. I am sure you can relate. Thanks for the quick reply.
What grit stone did you use and what hardness of the stone.
I can call out the #, the stone is coarse because the finish will be lapped, it is better not to have a super fine hone finish before lapping to help seat the lap. There are two systems with Sunnen Automotive and Industrial with the industrial side offering more stone types and tools.
Hello sir how do you indicate the mandrel?
Hi, I slip a truing sleeve over the mandrel, depress the pedal until the brake releases and then advance the stones with the dial until they grab. Then an indicator can be placed on the truing sleeve and the mandrel rotated and trued up with the 4 screws on the spindle, thanks for tuning in.
@@deedeeindustrialsuperprecisionHello sir the problem is when I tied the screws and the mandrel run out again. Can you please tell some tricks?