I have complete another video on weathering DAK tanks -- this time a Panzer III -- showing some different effects, such as no oil paints. It's a little more simple in terms of finish but I think it still looks great. Check it out here: th-cam.com/video/wT3B0JqyC-Y/w-d-xo.html
This video was PHENOMENAL. I’ve never seen anyone go from bare model to complete weathering, paneling, etc in a single video. Well done, sir! I’ve just subbed as the quality of your videos is insanely high! The video, editing, cut scenes, narration; it’s all perfect. This is better than broadcast TV. I just wanted to say thanks for sharing and please, keep up the good work!
Man, that's a long video there! But every minute is full of informative details and well worth the time. I find your tips simple with realistic results and your camera angles are the best. Thank you for making the video and sharing your knowledge with us. I would rate this how-to video one of the best in TH-cam.
Howdy. First of all, I'm a model railroader. When I want to portray rust, I use REAL rust. I make my own real rust. First I put approx. 2 rolls of 0000 fine steel wool into a quart jar. I then add enough white vinegar to cover the steel wool and sit the jar in a window that gets a lot of sun (in my case it's the kitchen window). I usually leave it for about 2 months or until most of the steel wool is dissolved into the vinegar (sometimes takes longer) and give the jar a shake once in a while. After most of the steel wool is dissolved I pour the mixture into a square or rectangle glass baking dish and put the dish in my closet for about 2 weeks or until the vinegar is dried completely. I then use a single edge razor blade scraper and chop up the rust mixture into a very fine powder. I usually store the rust powder in little snuff cans or tins of the same size. When I want to use the rust on a railroad car (or whatever) I take several scoops of rust powder and mix it with some isopropyl alcohol and equal part of Elmer's glue and add a few drops of water soluble glycerin. I make it up as a wash if I want the plastic to look like metal, but mix it kinda like paint if I want to use it as rust spots. It works very well and is REAL rust. Everyone who has seen my models remarks about how real the plastic looks like metal and how real the rust is.
You deserve so many more subs man, you tutorials are really in depth and informative and the videos are really well edited with decent background music which doesnt overpower you voice. so glad i found your channel
The final result is very convincing. Thank you for the step by step process. Its always interesting to see how other modelers achieve their final product.
I once read that in the beginning stages or perhaps that later stages of the war in the desert that the DAK didn't bother to paint the lower hull the sand camouflage color. They left that up to mother nature and tons of desert dust to do the job. Especially in the area of the tracks and behind the road wheels. If true it sort of makes sense for conserving both paint and time. This particular tutorial was very informative and fun to watch. I've been modeling for well over 40 yrs. It's always fun to learn something new. You did a great job with this one.
The fire extinguisher is still a huge controversy today. The Bovington tank museum tour guide said in 1943 they started painting them red. having been a soldier for my entire adult life I can tell you, we painted them with krylon if they were on the outside of a vehicle but most of the time we kept them inside. Even at listening posts they paint them another color so whatever you want to paint them, I say go ahead...it is your model.
If I had not put on that matte varnish, the tank would have been very shiny - looking like a plastic toy - and also the pigments I put o later would not have stuck onto the surface.
Invaluable information in these 1 hr long tutorials -- everything from simple decal applications to base coat and gloss painting was worthwhile. I returned to model building after about a 30 year hiatus. I wish I'd known even just a small fraction of all this info back then. Thanks!
Your videos have gotten me back into modeling. I haven't done it for 35 years but you have inspired me!!! Your videos are the best I have seen on line. Good Job!!!
I've been away from this stuff for a while, and was kinda afraid the next kits I make might suck.... :) I'm so glad I found your tutorials! they embolden me to improve, but not be paralyzed with fear of imperfection. Great vids! Great instruction ( without schilling )
Best hour I've spent this weekend, very informative just what I needed in order to finish my panzer 3 except mine is the Tamiya version . brilliant work learned alot many thanks....
Another superb finish Panzermeister, I love the weathered sand camo effect you have depicted. I know you're a fan of Mike Rinaldi, and I've got say the finish you achieved on this little beauty is up there with what I've seen Mike produce in his Tank Art books. I've also got to mention the fantastic production values you are providing for these videos.
Very well done Evan. The chipping and weathering was very realistic and I think overall you have a very nice piece. I know how much work it takes to make one of these videos as I just finished editing my first video. So congrats on all your hard work!
This has actually given me ideas in an unrelated way. I have a similar old Tamiya Pz.II built many years ago that is far too dark grey once cleared for decals. It may become a candidate for a desert scheme over the top or perhaps a well-worn winter finish.
How do think about about perfectly cutting the white balken of the balkenkreuze. Basically turning it into 4 piezes with help of a razor? It will make you have more edges but less decals. I always tend to cut away as much decals as possible anyway since I like paint better. Which in the is the best ofcourse. I am building the same panzer along your watching your vids. You inspired me to do make it an Afrika korps. The extreme contrast of the colors makes the chipping extra scary and fun. Really exciting stuff.
Mixing Windex with water makes a misplaced decal lift easier and keeps it moveable alot longer than just water... Automotive paint and decal technique, but I'd think it would work on plastic too
One freshly painted, factory new Panzer vs one weathering boi. Nicely done! I really have no time at all for models at the moment but once i do, i know i´m gonna at least try the hairspray chipping and the pin wash you show here. Small steps! Thank you for all those vids. Way to go!
Fantastic video. What would you think about an even lighter shade of the desert yellow with some white added sprayed very sparingly on mainly the horizontal surfaces to simulate sun bleaching before the chipping is done?
Edit: Nevermind, SHouold have kept watching lol What if I want the decals to sit on top of the desert yellow color rather than the base chipping color. I normally throw down a gloss coat then the decal, then microsol, then seal again with gloss varnish before moving on to weathing with oils and washes etc... If I put the decals on, on the 2nd color (yellow) will the chipping still work over the decal to give them a work look or will the gloss coat prevent that? I would think so. Should I do the chipping first then put decals over them, then come back and manually add chipping effects to the decals? So if I painted a grey or metal undercoat for my exposed chipping. Then painted a panel modulation of Desert yellow Then add some camo pattern with green brown. Then add the decals as above. Then removed the camo colors to expose the undercoat of metal with chipping. Will this work?
I very much appreciate your video. As a novice airbrusher, you have managed to give me the advice on mixing paint that I needed. My early attempts had the wrong paint mix, so we’re very wet and did not achieve the effect I wanted. I am attempting to now start weathering using the advice you have given in the video. Well done - keep those videos coming.
Just watched this video again. Spectacular detail. One small criticism, the divisional marking is inaccurate. When 5 Pz. Regt. shipped out for Tripoli to form up with other units into 5 Light Div. they wore the 3 Pz. Div. marking on grey paint . Arriving in North Africa Feb-March 1941 they were repainted an overall sand colour obscuring the 3 Pz. Div. marks. On 15 Aug 1941, 5 Light Div. was renamed 21 Pz. Div. and the new divisional mark was applied, on the desert camouflage.
Cheers for the input Alex. At the time I did not do much research into markings so it's partially based on photos and partially made up. Nowadays I do much more research 😁 I have another Pz I A that I may do in a DAK scheme in which case I'll get it right. Thanks!
Why did the different countries have the vehicle’s tools out exposed to the elements? Germany, Russia, USA all did it. Why not have a toolbox on the tank to keep them in?
Really really beautiful job. I have two comments but please don't take them as shots against you. I'm just not sure if this applicable for Pz.1 but I would have liked to have seen some demarcation between wheel and rubber, (if Pz.1 had rubber on wheels). Just a slight color change if you find it appropriate. Perhaps drilling out MGs? This is a great rendering of a DAK vehicle. One of the best I have seen.
Yeah, I should have gotten some metal MG barrels for this. That's a major weak point in the kit. As for the rubber, I see your point, but the panzer grey is usually dark enough in photos that it appears the same colour as rubber tyres. I don't think it would be wrong to make some visual difference there, though.
If you happen to paint any U.S. Marine humvees from Desert Storm, the Tow platoon guys and "cannon cockers" of H 2/11 used a version with the Marine Globe and Anchor in place of the Swastika. Why would boob tube demonitize your video over an accurate depiction???
They have automatic algorithms that detect swastikas to try to shut down neo nazi content. There is just too much stuff on TH-cam to have actual people verify it who can tell the difference between historical content and the bad stuff, so they use algorithms which can't tell context.
Ok not sure if I missed something or not but when using a dust or powder paint, #1 what keeps it in place and do you spray something on at the very end to keep it in place. I've never used either but would like to but never knew how to apply it. #2 is the paint powder ever mixed with something to maybe make it a thicker type of "paint" I guess you would call it. Like a thicker mud texture. Love your videos so far and I'm about to hit the subscribe button. Rick, Athens Texas
I was wondering why you use Tamiya gloss clear X22 instead of XF22 flat clear? Being armor I thought you wouldn't want it to be shining. Love your videos, I've learned a lot from them!!
Probably the best video on this topic! Is it safe to airbrush like that without a spray booth, respirator, gloves? I'm new to airbrushing and I've heard a lot of people saying that air particles of paint can really mess up your lungs and have long term health effects.
I used the wrong hairspray, and maybe let the tamiya paint dry too long (maybe an hour or less). I was not able to create the weathered look, now matter how much or long I soaked the surface with water, I had to scratch very firmly with my nails to make a dent or a scratch so to speak...how long do you let the paint dry after the hairspray ? and would the same timeframe work with vallejo and or mig/ak chipping fluids ? thanks and cheers
I wait only about 15 minutes before chipping. What thinner did you use with the Tamiya paint? Don't use lacquer thinner or apply a super heavy coat otherwise it will be very hard to chip.
@@Panzermeister36 I am a bit perplexed about the order that you glue your parts...dont the paint interfere with the bond?and how do you deal with glue possibly messing up the paint?
+ScipionLaurentiend I use cement for assembling the model parts when they are unpainted. I only use super glue if the parts are painted or if they are metal parts.
Just an interesting bit of info. The Panzer 1 weighed only slightly more than one track of a Tiger 2.... Just puts this entire tank evolution into perspective.
@@rurushu8094 I only saw your reply now. What I meant was not a single track link but an entire track of the Tiger 2. ie. If you remove the entire left hand track of a Tiger 2 then it weighs slightly less than a Panzer 1. Do you understand now? I can't put it simpler than that. You should have noticed this when you typed your reply. I spoke of a track and you spoke of a track link....
It's usually not okay to let the decals wrinkle like that, the best technique is to use a q-tip and once you have the decal in place use a rolling motion to squeeze all the water out from under the decal, and to set it in place flat with no wrinkles. For the paint mess up you either didnt let the clear coat dry fully or the micro sol isint good on it. BUT the model ended up looking wicked good so why am i giving criticism
+SUHH DUUDE decal solution is supposed to wrinkle them. That's how they melt down into the surface. If you were to roll a Q-tip over them at that point you would destroy the decals.
Can you tell me where you got the soft airbrush rest that you use? Did you make it? What is it called? Is it leather? Been trying to google soft airbrush rest with no luck. Thanks.
Honestly I couldn't tell you exactly; I doubt I still have that brush. I bought a bunch of 10/0, 20/0, and similar ones from R&L Zen 73 line, including this one. That one you pointed out looks quite long, so it's not the normal 10/0 "spotter" I usually use. But it's still very fine, so roughly that size...but with very long bristles. I would guess 10/0 or 20/0 "script liner". Sorry I can't be more precise....
+Al Schwarz yes! It should make them spray better too. However I have not tried every acrylic out there with lacquer thinner, so it may not always work out. I am unsure about that.
I'm curious as to why you use a gloss varnish for the intermediate stages of paint protection and a matt one at the end? To me matt would be the instinctive choice all the time - not ever having done this yet - does gloss give you some benefit then? I really like the pace of the video, unbelievable it's an hour long!
+morssdn I use gloss because matte is too rough of a surface to allow the pinwash to flow around details and also too rough to allow me to blend out the oils nicely. Matte is good at the end for powdered pigments and stuff since the rough texture holds pigments better.
Fucking Wow!!! lol I am just getting into Bolt Action 2nd Ed. and I LOVE My Shermans!, but thats awesome! You answered all my questions about various techniques and showed me what it should look like. I just needed a Reference, and Brother YOU are it!. lol Really Nice stuff. I am impressed! Thank You for your time! Scott E.
Hello Jerry. Yeah I forgot to film when I painted the tracks. Really all I did was paint them dark brown with the airbrush and then I gave them the same pigments as the rest of the wheels and hull.
Straight forward run through,using a little to make so much.!.Excellent build,painting and effects..Be watching this for reference a good few times..Thanks for a Great video and all the best from Blighty🇬🇧🇺🇸👍
M8! WOW! I've been playing Warhammer 40k for at least 10 years and i habe seen many Model tank (including my own Imperial vehicels) but i've never seen such a work on the tabel from other Hobby players.... Respect! BTW. Heres your Popcorn! Enjoy it ^.-
Very informative. I have a working on Abrams from OIF. The camo is little too brown. If I want it have a yellow tint would you suggest an ochre filter or should I weather it with oils? Thanks! Keep up the good work!
Fantastic realistic weathering and finishing; straight out of the hot, dusty campaign in Libya. I'm new to the hobby and the DAK is what I've always found most interesting. Your tank is how I imagine armour should look like from Northern Africa. Great work!
Thank you for doing this tutorial, I have the exact kit, but I'm really having a hardtime doing those scratches and chipping and you make it look very simple. Those pigments like on the exhaust and dry Euro mud, will it stick to the model for years to come? How about if I try to seal it with clear and at a very low psi, will it be blown away or will be ruined by the clear coat. Thank you!
Thank you. I have just started out and only tired a wash on a plane model. Got an Tamiya Abrams M1A2 and want to give it a desert finish. Going to try many of the things you show in this video. The base colors must be different for the M1A2 than the tank in your most excellent video. Can you recommend how to find out the base colors for the M1A2? Again thank you for your long and instructive video. I can't wait to get started.
I do similar to this method for 3d model textures....applying camo etc then using an eraser tool set to certain opacities removing areas of paint where it would be chipped etc like panels and edges etc...top job on the PzKw1 looks really good.excellent 57:51 could be the real thing
Outstanding effects... I would only say that the rubber road wheels are very pristine compared to the rest of the tank. The rubber treads would pick up dents, nicks and wear.. and some would be new and others older, so they shouldn’t be uniformly worn. Also you’ll see exhaust shields rust at different rates .. not for any reason other than they could have been made at different times and if different quality steel... but don’t overdo it. Yours look pretty good as they are.
Starting back to modelling, this has been an excellent video, will be using some of these techniques for my panzer IV J. Could you do a video for photo etched techniques at some point in the future? Great content mate, subbed.
Superb video, thanks for posting. could you take us through your airbrush set up, what type and do you use a compressor? If you have already covered this in a video could you say which one, many thanks
hola panzer, no se si podras traducir mi comentario, he intentado seguir tu tutorial pero no tengo los mismos resultados, mas bien muy diferente, sera porque uso pinturas acrilicas baratas y no las tamiya del tutorial? muchas gracias
I have complete another video on weathering DAK tanks -- this time a Panzer III -- showing some different effects, such as no oil paints. It's a little more simple in terms of finish but I think it still looks great.
Check it out here: th-cam.com/video/wT3B0JqyC-Y/w-d-xo.html
This video was PHENOMENAL. I’ve never seen anyone go from bare model to complete weathering, paneling, etc in a single video. Well done, sir! I’ve just subbed as the quality of your videos is insanely high! The video, editing, cut scenes, narration; it’s all perfect. This is better than broadcast TV. I just wanted to say thanks for sharing and please, keep up the good work!
well I'm going to bed at 12 instead of 11
Niko Stavropoulos any figure ines
Im going to bed at 2 instead of 1 😂
lol i look at the time and guess what time it is
Your videos have kept me sane during this COVID crap my Brother 👍🏻🇦🇺 love your work, it’s bloody awesome ;)
Thank you! I hope you're holding up well.
Man, that's a long video there! But every minute is full of informative details and well worth the time. I find your tips simple with realistic results and your camera angles are the best. Thank you for making the video and sharing your knowledge with us. I would rate this how-to video one of the best in TH-cam.
Thank you very much!
Howdy. First of all, I'm a model railroader. When I want to portray rust, I use REAL rust. I make my own real rust. First I put approx. 2 rolls of 0000 fine steel wool into a quart jar. I then add enough white vinegar to cover the steel wool and sit the jar in a window that gets a lot of sun (in my case it's the kitchen window). I usually leave it for about 2 months or until most of the steel wool is dissolved into the vinegar (sometimes takes longer) and give the jar a shake once in a while. After most of the steel wool is dissolved I pour the mixture into a square or rectangle glass baking dish and put the dish in my closet for about 2 weeks or until the vinegar is dried completely. I then use a single edge razor blade scraper and chop up the rust mixture into a very fine powder. I usually store the rust powder in little snuff cans or tins of the same size. When I want to use the rust on a railroad car (or whatever) I take several scoops of rust powder and mix it with some isopropyl alcohol and equal part of Elmer's glue and add a few drops of water soluble glycerin. I make it up as a wash if I want the plastic to look like metal, but mix it kinda like paint if I want to use it as rust spots. It works very well and is REAL rust. Everyone who has seen my models remarks about how real the plastic looks like metal and how real the rust is.
Thanks. Enjoyed this. I am about to tackle the RyeField DAK Tiger 1
Glad you enjoyed! :)
You deserve so many more subs man, you tutorials are really in depth and informative and the videos are really well edited with decent background music which doesnt overpower you voice. so glad i found your channel
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Great video with really well detailed instructions. Also very well spoken, pleasure to watch and learn from. I look forward to seeing more. 😊👍
The final result is very convincing. Thank you for the step by step process. Its always interesting to see how other modelers achieve their final product.
Very good job.
nice and amazing build! Very realistic
Very good work...
I once read that in the beginning stages or perhaps that later stages of the war in the desert that the DAK didn't bother to paint the lower hull the sand camouflage color. They left that up to mother nature and tons of desert dust to do the job. Especially in the area of the tracks and behind the road wheels. If true it sort of makes sense for conserving both paint and time. This particular tutorial was very informative and fun to watch. I've been modeling for well over 40 yrs. It's always fun to learn something new. You did a great job with this one.
You are a legend! You've made weathering look so simple and as I've never tried it before I certainly will now! Keep up the good work!
The fire extinguisher is still a huge controversy today. The Bovington tank museum tour guide said in 1943 they started painting them red. having been a soldier for my entire adult life I can tell you, we painted them with krylon if they were on the outside of a vehicle but most of the time we kept them inside. Even at listening posts they paint them another color so whatever you want to paint them, I say go ahead...it is your model.
I'm a 60 year old and learning so much from these tutorials. Well done very impressive
I was told by my grandfather your never to old to learn.
Good model! thanks. 48:13 however, ah would have personally not gone with the matt varinsh! I think the contrast was better imo.
If I had not put on that matte varnish, the tank would have been very shiny - looking like a plastic toy - and also the pigments I put o later would not have stuck onto the surface.
Excellent video!
very nice, great work and video, i really like your videos👍✌
Excellent guide and your model looks incredible - so realistic!
Yes, I think so too👍✌
Invaluable information in these 1 hr long tutorials -- everything from simple decal applications to base coat and gloss painting was worthwhile. I returned to model building after about a 30 year hiatus. I wish I'd known even just a small fraction of all this info back then. Thanks!
Your videos have gotten me back into modeling. I haven't done it for 35 years but you have inspired me!!! Your videos are the best I have seen on line. Good Job!!!
This actually helps alot thank you so much, and keep up the good work!
New to your channel amazing job
I've been away from this stuff for a while, and was kinda afraid the next kits I make might suck.... :)
I'm so glad I found your tutorials! they embolden me to improve, but not be paralyzed with fear of imperfection. Great vids! Great instruction ( without schilling )
great job!!!
very impressive model and coherent video, i am very much looking forward to the PIII DAK project :)
That looks awesome dude! If you'd have said that was the real thing, I'd have believed it!
Amazing, but where is first chipping to the grey base colour? I dont see it. Is it need for this?
Best hour I've spent this weekend, very informative just what I needed in order to finish my panzer 3 except mine is the Tamiya version . brilliant work learned alot many thanks....
Great timing! Your tips will come in handy for my M3 Stewart that I’m about to paint and weather!
Keep up the great work!
I learn so much watching you paint your models BIG like from me.
Do you know of anyone who does this with a brush rather then an air brush?
Awesome video mate, definitely need to watch this again. Thanks for taking the effort to make this video!
Davvero Bello!! Complimenti!
Farai la basetta?
Hey mate, what kind of brushes are they your using?
I use Royal & Langnickel Zen73 series.
Another superb finish Panzermeister, I love the weathered sand camo effect you have depicted. I know you're a fan of Mike Rinaldi, and I've got say the finish you achieved on this little beauty is up there with what I've seen Mike produce in his Tank Art books. I've also got to mention the fantastic production values you are providing for these videos.
Do you use dry transfers? If so, what do you think of them?
Very well done Evan. The chipping and weathering was very realistic and I think overall you have a very nice piece. I know how much work it takes to make one of these videos as I just finished editing my first video. So congrats on all your hard work!
This has actually given me ideas in an unrelated way. I have a similar old Tamiya Pz.II built many years ago that is far too dark grey once cleared for decals. It may become a candidate for a desert scheme over the top or perhaps a well-worn winter finish.
Amazing 👌👌👌
How do think about about perfectly cutting the white balken of the balkenkreuze. Basically turning it into 4 piezes with help of a razor? It will make you have more edges but less decals. I always tend to cut away as much decals as possible anyway since I like paint better. Which in the is the best ofcourse.
I am building the same panzer along your watching your vids. You inspired me to do make it an Afrika korps. The extreme contrast of the colors makes the chipping extra scary and fun. Really exciting stuff.
Mixing Windex with water makes a misplaced decal lift easier and keeps it moveable alot longer than just water... Automotive paint and decal technique, but I'd think it would work on plastic too
You would have to be careful over Acrylic paints as Windex is a REALLY good solvent for them, but over Enamel and Lacquer, it could work.
One freshly painted, factory new Panzer vs one weathering boi. Nicely done! I really have no time at all for models at the moment but once i do, i know i´m gonna at least try the hairspray chipping and the pin wash you show here. Small steps! Thank you for all those vids. Way to go!
What would be your mix for German panzer interior cream with Tamiya paints
Probably XF-57 buff and XF-2 white mixed together about 50/50 or so.
What’s your opinion on the AK interactive off-white
I have not used that specific paint, but so far all the AK Real Colors I have used are excellent. So, I would expect it is very accurate.
Fantastic video. What would you think about an even lighter shade of the desert yellow with some white added sprayed very sparingly on mainly the horizontal surfaces to simulate sun bleaching before the chipping is done?
Same chipping effect I used on a white washed KV-1 platoon in 15mm, looks realistic even at that scale.
Looks great. I would add some black exhaust to the panel below the exhaust tips.
I wonder, do you have any tips on how to do some very fine and weak hairspray chipping?
Currently I'm doing IS-3M for desert color. Your tutorial really help me to finish my model. Thanks bro.
Edit: Nevermind, SHouold have kept watching lol
What if I want the decals to sit on top of the desert yellow color rather than the base chipping color. I normally throw down a gloss coat then the decal, then microsol, then seal again with gloss varnish before moving on to weathing with oils and washes etc... If I put the decals on, on the 2nd color (yellow) will the chipping still work over the decal to give them a work look or will the gloss coat prevent that? I would think so. Should I do the chipping first then put decals over them, then come back and manually add chipping effects to the decals?
So if I painted a grey or metal undercoat for my exposed chipping.
Then painted a panel modulation of Desert yellow
Then add some camo pattern with green brown.
Then add the decals as above.
Then removed the camo colors to expose the undercoat of metal with chipping. Will this work?
you must be a member at one of those fancy private golf courses to be getting free pencils. lucky bastaired.
I very much appreciate your video. As a novice airbrusher, you have managed to give me the advice on mixing paint that I needed. My early attempts had the wrong paint mix, so we’re very wet and did not achieve the effect I wanted. I am attempting to now start weathering using the advice you have given in the video. Well done - keep those videos coming.
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Do you have links to episodes 1&2 please...can't seem to find them - thanks
Great video, thanks. What brand are the black handle paint brushes? Cheers, Joe
Just watched this video again. Spectacular detail. One small criticism, the divisional marking is inaccurate. When 5 Pz. Regt. shipped out for Tripoli to form up with other units into 5 Light Div. they wore the 3 Pz. Div. marking on grey paint . Arriving in North Africa Feb-March 1941 they were repainted an overall sand colour obscuring the 3 Pz. Div. marks. On 15 Aug 1941, 5 Light Div. was renamed 21 Pz. Div. and the new divisional mark was applied, on the desert camouflage.
Cheers for the input Alex. At the time I did not do much research into markings so it's partially based on photos and partially made up. Nowadays I do much more research 😁 I have another Pz I A that I may do in a DAK scheme in which case I'll get it right. Thanks!
Why did the different countries have the vehicle’s tools out exposed to the elements? Germany, Russia, USA all did it. Why not have a toolbox on the tank to keep them in?
That would use up too much space than can be used for extra ammunition for example. The tools are also not that important that’s why.
Hi, French beginnner in tank model here. Your video are very impressive, interesting and now a reference for me. Thank you very much !
Glad it was helpful!
Really really beautiful job. I have two comments but please don't take them as shots against you. I'm just not sure if this applicable for Pz.1 but I would have liked to have seen some demarcation between wheel and rubber, (if Pz.1 had rubber on wheels). Just a slight color change if you find it appropriate.
Perhaps drilling out MGs?
This is a great rendering of a DAK vehicle. One of the best I have seen.
Yeah, I should have gotten some metal MG barrels for this. That's a major weak point in the kit. As for the rubber, I see your point, but the panzer grey is usually dark enough in photos that it appears the same colour as rubber tyres. I don't think it would be wrong to make some visual difference there, though.
If you happen to paint any U.S. Marine humvees from Desert Storm, the Tow platoon guys and "cannon cockers" of H 2/11 used a version with the Marine Globe and Anchor in place of the Swastika.
Why would boob tube demonitize your video over an accurate depiction???
They have automatic algorithms that detect swastikas to try to shut down neo nazi content. There is just too much stuff on TH-cam to have actual people verify it who can tell the difference between historical content and the bad stuff, so they use algorithms which can't tell context.
Great work and a brilliant video, perfectly pitched for those wanting to learn weathering techniques.....many thanks for posting
Stunning.. simply stunning!!
Do you use a pacific method when it comes to cleaning your brushes?
9:36 Erasing the past, even its ugliest chapters, is a bad idea. I like authenticity.
Spectacular! Thank you so much for sharing your take on weathering effects. For the record, these scale up very nicely. Cheers!
+Scale Builder's Guild thank you very much!
i mean it is true normal panzer grey kinda sucks but it real life ya know XD
Ok not sure if I missed something or not but when using a dust or powder paint, #1 what keeps it in place and do you spray something on at the very end to keep it in place. I've never used either but would like to but never knew how to apply it. #2 is the paint powder ever mixed with something to maybe make it a thicker type of "paint" I guess you would call it. Like a thicker mud texture. Love your videos so far and I'm about to hit the subscribe button.
Rick, Athens Texas
The matte finish already on the tank helps pigment adhere. If you try sealing it with matte afterwards it will blow away most of the pigments.
I was wondering why you use Tamiya gloss clear X22 instead of XF22 flat clear? Being armor I thought you wouldn't want it to be shining. Love your videos, I've learned a lot from them!!
I want the wash to flow smoothly so I apply a smooth gloss finish. Matte is applied later for the flat finish.
A nood question. Why didn't use you TMM paint for the metallic parts of the tools? Like Citadel Leadbelcher or Vallejo's steel/aluminium/gunmetal etc?
Because the ones I've seen have terrible flakes of metal which look out of scale.
Probably the best video on this topic! Is it safe to airbrush like that without a spray booth, respirator, gloves? I'm new to airbrushing and I've heard a lot of people saying that air particles of paint can really mess up your lungs and have long term health effects.
I do have a ventilation system, which is critical. And, you should use gloves. I didn't use them then but I do use them now.
I used the wrong hairspray, and maybe let the tamiya paint dry too long (maybe an hour or less). I was not able to create the weathered look, now matter how much or long I soaked the surface with water, I had to scratch very firmly with my nails to make a dent or a scratch so to speak...how long do you let the paint dry after the hairspray ? and would the same timeframe work with vallejo and or mig/ak chipping fluids ? thanks and cheers
I wait only about 15 minutes before chipping. What thinner did you use with the Tamiya paint? Don't use lacquer thinner or apply a super heavy coat otherwise it will be very hard to chip.
just sitting here with my mouth open ,starring at the screen as if you were teaching me the secret of immortal life...god damn the skills.....
Thank you very much! I'm glad you enjoyed it :)
@@Panzermeister36 I am a bit perplexed about the order that you glue your parts...dont the paint interfere with the bond?and how do you deal with glue possibly messing up the paint?
I use super glue for attaching most parts after painting so the paint does not really have an effect on adhesion.
@@Panzermeister36 ohh...not the first who tell me they use super glue instead of cement...gotta give it a go some time then
+ScipionLaurentiend I use cement for assembling the model parts when they are unpainted. I only use super glue if the parts are painted or if they are metal parts.
Just an interesting bit of info. The Panzer 1 weighed only slightly more than one track of a Tiger 2.... Just puts this entire tank evolution into perspective.
A track link on a tiger is 40 to 60 kilograms (can’t remember exactly) while a panzer I is 5400 kilograms. What are you on?
Perhaps have a closer look at what a track link on a Tiger 1 weighed?
@@rurushu8094 I only saw your reply now. What I meant was not a single track link but an entire track of the Tiger 2. ie. If you remove the entire left hand track of a Tiger 2 then it weighs slightly less than a Panzer 1. Do you understand now? I can't put it simpler than that. You should have noticed this when you typed your reply. I spoke of a track and you spoke of a track link....
It's usually not okay to let the decals wrinkle like that, the best technique is to use a q-tip and once you have the decal in place use a rolling motion to squeeze all the water out from under the decal, and to set it in place flat with no wrinkles. For the paint mess up you either didnt let the clear coat dry fully or the micro sol isint good on it. BUT the model ended up looking wicked good so why am i giving criticism
+SUHH DUUDE decal solution is supposed to wrinkle them. That's how they melt down into the surface. If you were to roll a Q-tip over them at that point you would destroy the decals.
I don’t know if this was covered earlier. When you did the base paint you used lacquer instead of acrylic thinner. Why was that? Thanks
+Marco Musc lacquer thinner works the same as acrylic thinner, except it makes Tamiya paints spray a little more smoothly.
Can you tell me where you got the soft airbrush rest that you use? Did you make it? What is it called? Is it leather? Been trying to google soft airbrush rest with no luck. Thanks.
It's just a couple of paperweights that I had. Leather bags full of sand I guess. No idea where I got them.
Which 10/0 brush were you using @ 11:32? Is the the R and L Zen 10/0 or a different one?
Honestly I couldn't tell you exactly; I doubt I still have that brush. I bought a bunch of 10/0, 20/0, and similar ones from R&L Zen 73 line, including this one. That one you pointed out looks quite long, so it's not the normal 10/0 "spotter" I usually use. But it's still very fine, so roughly that size...but with very long bristles. I would guess 10/0 or 20/0 "script liner". Sorry I can't be more precise....
You can thin acrylics with lacquer thinner?? I'm a newbie, so please excuse the novice question as I find the paint process a little confusing!
+Al Schwarz yes! It should make them spray better too. However I have not tried every acrylic out there with lacquer thinner, so it may not always work out. I am unsure about that.
Instead of a pinwash with the thinner, could you use Tamiya Panel Liner instead? Same difference/ techniue or is Panel Liner another Beast itself?
Tamiya Panel Liner is an enamel pinwash, so it works in exactly the same way. It is simply pre-mixed for your convenience 😊
I'm curious as to why you use a gloss varnish for the intermediate stages of paint protection and a matt one at the end? To me matt would be the instinctive choice all the time - not ever having done this yet - does gloss give you some benefit then? I really like the pace of the video, unbelievable it's an hour long!
+morssdn I use gloss because matte is too rough of a surface to allow the pinwash to flow around details and also too rough to allow me to blend out the oils nicely. Matte is good at the end for powdered pigments and stuff since the rough texture holds pigments better.
Can you chip if youre using a brush?
Fucking Wow!!! lol I am just getting into Bolt Action 2nd Ed. and I LOVE My Shermans!, but thats awesome! You answered all my questions about various techniques and showed me what it should look like. I just needed a Reference, and Brother YOU are it!. lol Really Nice stuff. I am impressed! Thank You for your time! Scott E.
Excellent video with plenty of good tips!!! 👍 Be nice if you included more about finishing the tracks.
Hello Jerry. Yeah I forgot to film when I painted the tracks. Really all I did was paint them dark brown with the airbrush and then I gave them the same pigments as the rest of the wheels and hull.
All looks good!!!
Thank you for all the videos, I’ve learnt so much especially on this and the other DAK video, extremely helpful for my own build.
Straight forward run through,using a little to make so much.!.Excellent build,painting and effects..Be watching this for reference a good few times..Thanks for a Great video and all the best from Blighty🇬🇧🇺🇸👍
M8! WOW! I've been playing Warhammer 40k for at least 10 years and i habe seen many Model tank (including my own Imperial vehicels) but i've never seen such a work on the tabel from other Hobby players.... Respect!
BTW. Heres your Popcorn! Enjoy it ^.-
Very informative. I have a working on Abrams from OIF. The camo is little too brown. If I want it have a yellow tint would you suggest an ochre filter or should I weather it with oils? Thanks! Keep up the good work!
Fantastic realistic weathering and finishing; straight out of the hot, dusty campaign in Libya. I'm new to the hobby and the DAK is what I've always found most interesting.
Your tank is how I imagine armour should look like from Northern Africa. Great work!
Big tombs up for your work. Great one of my favorite
Thank you for doing this tutorial, I have the exact kit, but I'm really having a hardtime doing those scratches and chipping and you make it look very simple. Those pigments like on the exhaust and dry Euro mud, will it stick to the model for years to come? How about if I try to seal it with clear and at a very low psi, will it be blown away or will be ruined by the clear coat. Thank you!
Thank you. I have just started out and only tired a wash on a plane model. Got an Tamiya Abrams M1A2 and want to give it a desert finish. Going to try many of the things you show in this video. The base colors must be different for the M1A2 than the tank in your most excellent video. Can you recommend how to find out the base colors for the M1A2? Again thank you for your long and instructive video. I can't wait to get started.
I do similar to this method for 3d model textures....applying camo etc then using an eraser tool set to certain opacities removing areas of paint where it would be chipped etc like panels and edges etc...top job on the PzKw1 looks really good.excellent 57:51 could be the real thing
Outstanding effects...
I would only say that the rubber road wheels are very pristine compared to the rest of the tank. The rubber treads would pick up dents, nicks and wear.. and some would be new and others older, so they shouldn’t be uniformly worn.
Also you’ll see exhaust shields rust at different rates .. not for any reason other than they could have been made at different times and if different quality steel... but don’t overdo it. Yours look pretty good as they are.
Starting back to modelling, this has been an excellent video, will be using some of these techniques for my panzer IV J. Could you do a video for photo etched techniques at some point in the future? Great content mate, subbed.
Thanks buddy!!! Super buddy!!! Took many notes. Like I always say I look to my weathering mentor hahahahaha.
Superb video, thanks for posting. could you take us through your airbrush set up, what type and do you use a compressor? If you have already covered this in a video could you say which one, many thanks
Awesome look to this Panzer I - love the European Theater Panzer Grey showing through. Well done!
Your video has helped me a thousand times more then the 57 other tutorials I've watched. Thank you for your knowledge. Definitely impressed.
hola panzer, no se si podras traducir mi comentario, he intentado seguir tu tutorial pero no tengo los mismos resultados, mas bien muy diferente, sera porque uso pinturas acrilicas baratas y no las tamiya del tutorial? muchas gracias
I think the cheap acrylic paints gave you trouble, yes. Tamiya acrylic paints are very strong and durable compared to cheap paints.