This video summarizes everything that I learned over the past 2 years. Amazing content. I spent 5k $$ and 2 years to learn all these things and you summarized it in 7 minus.
Great video man! Happy to see my 3D model from 0:06 was looking for some air suspension issue on my 06 RRS SC (which I made that 3D model after it). So thanks for the valuable info and supporting me by buying my 3D model, I have a stock version if you’d like, sorry for that plug! But again great video!! You have a new sub!
Hi there I recently changed my dryer and before I did the suspension would raise slowly in the front but would still raise but now after the dryer change the front won’t raise and the compressor goes. On and off a few times then comes up with a fault saying air flow code c1311 and I can’t figure it out plz any help
My controller for my system doesn’t seem to have power going to it. What I mean is no lights illuminate saying what’s going on and the hight doesn’t change when flipping the switch up or down. What do I do to fix this???
A faulty compressor alone wouldn't cause sagging, rather it would cause "Suspension fault normal height only" messages to appear shortly after starting the car as the compressor tries to fill the tank/springs but overheats.
@@HazyJay Right on, thanks for the response. I'll have to do this test, I don't think there's too much sagging when i come out to my rover in the morning. the fault comes on right after starting, and if i turn off the truck and turn it back on it goes away. It never comes on when driving on the highway, only when starting, and occasionally when driving slow.
@@HazyJay I did the test where I pulled the fuse and let it sit overnight. My front end dropped about 3" over night, equally on both sides. Do you think I should replace the valve block and the compressor? Like I said, the warning goes away after restarting my rover and it seems to come back up to normal height again and then the warning light rarely comes on again after driving.
Just try replacing the valve block first as this would cause a front end drop when the fuse/battery is disconnected! Save the more expensive compressor for later, but a faulty compressor wouldn't cause a leak overnight.@@rhandomskate
This is a great video. I would assume this works with a RRS L494? I have a sneaky suspicion it’s my front passenger side airbag/valve block but will try this tonight.
The procedure should be the same but the fuse will likely be different, you will need to either look up the fuses or just disconnect the battery for the procedure.
Replaced both front springs and cleaned out every piece of the front valve block. Front sags (tilts front left mostly). What are the odds the lines have issues?
I'd spray the top of the front left spring and front valve block with soapy water to see if the Voss connection is leaking. Also, consider replacing the front valve block entirely, the O-rings and solenoid seals may just be worn out and are allowing leaks back to the compressor.
Fantastic vid, my RRS 2.8 has been deflating about every day and sometimes it won’t raise at all, so I let it sit for few days and started it and it rose as normally I removed the Air suspension ECU fuse and it hasn’t sagged but my power steering was lost 🙈 any idea why?
The RRS has speed sensitive steering which changes the stiffness based on the speed, sometimes it errors due to voltage drops. I'd guess that leaving your car for a few days caused the battery voltage to drop enough to cause the module to error. I would let the car idle for a while to charge the battery, then unplug the battery for an hour (to reset), reconnect and try again. If it has been a few years since a new battery you can try that, I suggest AGM batteries. Otherwise, you may need to take to the dealer. Obviously check the power steering fluid level but I'm guessing this is normal.
Thanks for this! I found my LF air bag was leaking using this video on my 2012 Range Rover Sport with VDS. I just went ahead and replaced the front strut and shock assemblies but now I have an Active Dynamics Fault. Is this because the suspension needs to be calibrated? Or is this a bad strut? (I went aftermarket). Also worried that I didn't lift the vehicle right and damaged something..
Im new to the range rover sport and the back was sagging like in the video. I followed the steps and took the fuse out. I came back in the morning and there was no sagging it was at the same height it was. Any idea what that could be thanks. Ps these are very good tutorials 👌
That's good, it means no leaks. If you're parking on an incline it will drop like that, also the system may need calibration at the dealer on a calibration (flat) surface.
Thanks for the video! My air compressor work only around 15-30 sec and it stop and the suspension light go on in the dash! My compressor is new. Anyone have a idea what it could be?
Hi Everyone, I have a RR sport 2012 and I did the test removing the fuse. The result is that the front left drop 2cm but the front right rise 3cm. And the back right rise 10cm and the left rise 5cm! What should I do?
Last time I cleaned the rear air valve and I wasn’t sure about the order of the air hoses on the back. Do you think That the car is rising because I didn’t reassemble properly the rear valve?
Hazy, i have à Theory, maybe the weight of the engine being much heavier than the back, push the air to the back suspension. Like pressing a ballon, the air will go to the opposite side of the pressure. If I’m right then what is the air valve need to be replaced?
Hi everyone, I finally changed the central air valve and now the back part of the car is not raising anymore. My theory was right, the weight of the front part of the car was lifting the back part. Thanks Hazy for your videos!
Hello Hazy! Thank you for this video. I have a question and I apologize if it's a stupid one. I have a leaking rear sway bar which is being replaced early November. (couldn't get an earlier appointment) I also have sagging on the front driver side and it progressively gets lower each day the car sits. I drive it about every 3 days and it corrects itself every time I do drive it. My question is are the sway bars part of the air suspension or are they 2 different systems? Thank you for any information you can give me. My vehicle is a 2013 Range Rover Sport Supercharged
The sway bar is just that, a metal bar, that links the left and right suspension to prevent body roll. While parked, the sway bar doesn't do anything, it really only stresses when you're taking sharp turns. The supercharged version has "dynamic stability control" which complicates things, this is likely what's leaking. Long story short, the rear sway bar leak shouldn't be causing your front driver side lowering.
@@HazyJay left side front and back, but not every night. But if i park with off road hight, the left side front and back all gonna drop to the normal hight.
Hi!! I am experiencing a similar scenario some people have called out below. The battery has been pulled for 3 days and it's sitting on a level surface. No sagging that we can tell. Is it possible it's some sort of bad sensor that is making the system think it's losing air when it is actually not? I am getting a suspension fault pretty much constantly while driving, and the screen shows the back 2 wheels sinking off and on within the display. Any thoughts? Thanks!
Are you sure it's bottoming out (suspension completely compresses to bump stops) or does it sound like it bottoms out. If it's just the sound, it's likely the lower control arm bushings in the rear or some other suspension component.
@@chriselders6603 Be careful because a lot of things can make the noise, make sure it's nothing in the cabin (a tool box in the back) and if not, you may need to have someone rock the car while you look underneath, or possibly even rig up a go-pro and drive over a bump
@@HazyJay Hi Hazy ,,I have chance to buy one Range Rover Sport V8 5.0 2014 140000km But he have one problem with suspension fault CPU should And some bodyshop work He have estimated 10000 $CAD cost He ask 25000 CAD In the market here in Canada it's like 40000$Cad this car Can I fix this fault CPU for reasonable price ? Or change suspension with coil suspension? This engine V8 5.0 it's reliable ? Thanks
Thank you for taking the time to make this. You just saved me alot of time trying to understand the system. Perfectly explained. Thank you bud. Not all heroes wear capes
Hey I just wanted to say thank you for providing great informative repair vids for the l320. I bought one a year ago and have found your channel to be a great resource, there is such little content out there for these cars!
Superb very helpful and useful. I have always likes RR sports and finally bit the bullet and bought a superb 2006 HSE special model. Your channel is SO useful Thanks! Love from the UK !
Hi, just bought a RRS 2010 and Passenger rear (UK) side is sagging over night, not the whole rear. So problem would either be the air spring or the valve block ( not tested anything at the moment).
So I had a few of these problems, replaced struts my self etc etc, ended up going to LR shop to see why still sagging over night and they said the driver side hose had a leak in it¿ $800 was there quote, is the air hose a manageable replacement¿ lmk thanks
Front driver side? The hard part will be running the hose under the body panels, but it's definitely doable. I wonder if the problem is really a leaking hose or if it's actually the valve block.
@@HazyJay I wonder too, they had it for two days, changed the o ring fittings, car pops up, they held it a day to see if it would hold ride height and then I’m sure went through all their checks and balances etc etc, and called me back and said everything was holding except the green driver line… I see it on eBay for pretty cheap, any idea how long it will take rough estimate thank you so much for your response and videos trying to hurry and sort this so I don’t go through the compressor
@@moonbootmeechy You will need to remove the front right wheel to access the valve block and the top of the airspring, then it's just a matter of replacing the green line. You could probably tie a string to the old line before you pull it out of the bodywork so you can attach the new line to the string and pull it through, might make snaking the new line easier.
@@HazyJay okay… I have seen both components when I changed the struts myself so I imagine shouldn’t take more than a couple hours I hope… I’ll try to tend to this next weekend, and I’ll will let you know my results wish me 🍀 and thanks again¡
Awesome video, thank you! Question, if I don't notice any change in height on the vehicle in the morning, but I hear the compressor running for a min or two upon startup, is that normal? Is it just replenishing air in the reservoir? Or is it likely due to a slow leak?
While driving the vehicle will use the reservoir to make height adjustments, so when the car is turned off, the reservoir will be partially empty and it will not refill while the car is off. Because of this, when you turn the car on it will need to run for a bit to refill the reservoir even with no leaks.
I salute you sir... Just managed to get a cheap disco with a new pump that is clearly suffering from further leaks. If you want something done *rolls up sleeves - you watch a video on TH-cam 🙌
Great video, my truck goes down on the rear right only every overnight. Tried Disconnecting the battery overnight and it didn't go down at all. That would indicate it's the ride height sensor?
Thank you so much, this answers alot of my questions... I take it the vehicle has to parked on level ground overnight(excuse my stupidity😋). Been in and out of so many forums and this is the best explanation I could find so far 🙂🙏🙏.
It should be on relatively level ground, If it's a slight incline the front might drop some just from that. You can tell if it's the incline causing it by parking in reverse and seeing if the rear lowers instead.
Hi haze I tested it and my front passenger side is the culprit. It lost 2cm over 48 hours. I see some videos say there is an acceptable limit if it drops less than an inch. Do you recommend changing the air spring or is it normal to lose a little air?
@@HazyJay it's the rear right . Says height sensor faulty . But somehow car levels itself but stays slightly crooked. Whereas screen shows red blinking completely down wheel
@@asadmo You'll have to remove the wheel since it's too hard to reach otherwise (i believe), remember to disconnect the battery so the car doesn't try to change heights while you're doing it.
Thank you so much for sharing! I learned a lot from your videos! I have a question. Sometimes there is a hiss after flame out. With the hiss, two front wheels get lower rapidly at the same time. Do you think there is a problem with the valve (front valve or middle valve)? Thank you again!
I wanted to comment and thank you for your videos on the RR Sport. I have recently replaced the Compressor on my 2008 Sport SS based on your video instruction, and now have determined the codes / messages that you got for the 'ride height sensor' (RHS) were the exact same as I am getting and it randomly collapses to the bump stops after those warning messages. I can start it and go for an unknown period of time, then same failure again. The air test overnight resulted in no movement at all (not even 1/16 of an in.!) at each corner and no front or back reduction, so I am hopeful it is just the LF RHS - the OEM part is due to me Monday or Tuesday. I will rebuild/replace all valve blocks in the future even if they indicate no problem at present. I will also leave a comment on the compressor replacement video regarding that procedure. Thanks again! Best, Jim
Hey there hazy, so i replaced my front bags and it camed with new seals and now but not all the times i see the vehicle sag still in front could it be the front valve block and i get a dynamic error code in dashboard and rides rough can it be the valve block and height sensor?? Thanks for you response
If the entire front is down after unplugging the battery all night, it's likely the valve block. A height sensor issue would have unusual heights on the 4x4 info in the dash (versus real life), so luckily that's easy to see. I'd consider changing the valve block since it's fairly cheap and easy 👌
Mr. Hazy, a stumped LR3 owner here. I replaced the air struts, front and rear valve blocks are within a year old, overnight test confirms no leaks. But there seems to be an electrical issue. When I disconnect and reconnect the battery, I can freely raise and lower via the switch. Then, with no fault on the dash, EAS goes into "auto" mode, orange lights by switch go solid, 4x4 infotainment screen and radio lose function, and the suspension goes into normal height to drive and access mode at key off. Standard OBD2 scanner says vehicle is free of faults. Any insight would be helpful.
hello, I have such a problem with lr3, I hear that the compressor turns on often, sometimes it regulates itself, the car lets in and releases the pressure from the rear airbag when I leave the car on, it also does not fall from the given corner for 24 hours. I do not know what it could be, as I wrote, the compressor comes on often, and it seems that there is no leakage, maybe someone knows something about it. hello and thanks for the videos👍👍👍
great video, helped me a lot to under stand the system. I'm having a problem still, after finding the 2 front bags leaking and replaced, the front valve block replaced and the pump replaced its still dropping. With the fuse out i get a drop over night FL 30mm,FR 50mm, RL 5mm and RR 25mm also now the car will not actually level with each corner doing a different height. Ive sprayed them all with soapy water with no bubbles showing. any ideas would be great thanks.
This video is incredible at simplyfing the mechanicals behind the system. Thank you for this! Do you know how the different sensors all play into the air suspension? Like do wheel speed sensors help govern the behavior of it?
If the passenger side rear drops while driving, do you think this is a bad air spring? I installed new rear springs about a year ago but it is now dropping while driving
I don't have the Range Rover Sport but the LR3. After watching Hazy's other videos, I've never seen video illustrations of air suspension of LR3 and this videos are awesome. The graphical display illustrations are A++, it is so simple to understand
My 2019 RR Sport SC V8 with 76K miles as started sagging a little in the front over night. LR Dealer could not find leak.Dealer thinks it's a pinhole leak in the system. But they couldn't find the leak. The truck is not throwing any codes, nothing on the dash.They didn't charge me for the two day diagnostic. Their plan is to wait for the system to throw a error code. Any thoughts from you would be much appreciated . Great channel by the way !! Very informative.
Great video and thank you. Q4U. My 2013 RRS driver side rear sags at night bit at times if I drive long for 20 mins it will rise back up but I keep getting. Suspension fault and the higher controls are offline. I replaced the battery and reset with the steering wheel and sometimes it works and sometimes not. My next step is to replace the rear block. Would you suggest anything else?
Whsts yhe difference between $50 valve block and $100? I changed all 3 but still back and front wont raise. The compressor works but after a charge in air it lets the air out becaise air is not going to struts.
I have the same problem, a 2010 Land Rover Sport tilts to the right side, front and rear, and when driving on the road, the air pump stops working, which causes the vehicle to slide
will the self leveling system still work overnight if you leave the hood popped open? if not then you don't have to remove the negative terminal or fuse
So after leaving over night with fuse 26 removed. And none of the airbags drop at all. What do you suggest could be the problem? Fronts raise slowly when compressor running etc but the rear bags fly up pretty fast.
What is the problem with the vehicle? The good news is there are no leaks since it stayed up over night. The rear typically will rise faster due to less weight in the rear (engine in front).
Hi, I have a question. I have a Range Rover 2009 Sport. It descends on the left side, the front and rear are the same size. I mean, it descends on the left side of the front and back a little, even if it is standing or walking.
The front and rear are controlled by separate valves, so there are two possibilities. 1. you happen to have leaks on the left side front and rear springs or at the valve blocks or 2. the air suspension needs to be calibrated to be level.
Most likely the bags. Lower the vehicle all the way to access mode. Turn car off and wait for compressor to shut off. Turn car back on and raise it. Step outside the vehicle and start spraying soapy water on the strut towers. If they aren't taking any air and there's lots of bubbles then that's the culprit. If not then refer to your valves.
GREAT VIDEOS. I've done what this video says but it don't sag at all but it sags overnight when I put the fuse in. Any ideas? I had leaks in the front and replaced both front struts, front valve block as well as the middle valve block but there is still some sagging overnight
I have just discovered that the air lines on the front valve block are all in the wrong places (courtesy of previous owner). The line that's supposed to go to the air compressor is in the port for the right strut; the line that's supposed to go to the left strut is in the air compressor port; and the line that's supposed to go to the right strut is in the port for the left strut. I'm just curious about what this might do to my system. I will be correcting this.
When lifting the system all solenoids are open so they would share the same gallery regardless, however, I would predict the vehicle wont be able to equal pressure between the springs or vent excess air correctly in this configuration.
@@HazyJay Thanks very much for the reply. I'll be checking the lines to the rear valve block based on your other video to make sure they're in correctly too.
Hey Hazy thank you for your clear videos. My issue is the (right rear) side sag when left overnight. I took off the fuse "F26" overnight and the result next day was still sagging (right rear). So now what's the verdict?
Same principle should apply, remove the battery connection (or fuse) to localize the leak. If there is no leak, consider you may be parking on a sloped horizontal (left or right) surface or the sensors need calibration.
Hi dear friend i have question for you what DO you think about 2011 Range rover supercharge tilt to Right side front and rear Please let me know thank you
Awesome Hazy! I've troubleshoot and repaired a couple of suspension problems on my RR thanks to your simple yet well detailed videos. Thank you brother! I truelly appreciate your time.
Extended mode will be selected if the vehicle senses it has become "grounded" on a rock or something, but it cannot be selected manually. You can MAKE it go to extended mode by placing a block of wood under the jack point while it's in extended mode and lowering the chassis onto the block, causing it to go to extended mode.
@@HazyJay thanks for the quick response! Just want to clarify..so off road mode then place a block at jack point, then try to lower it, and it will go to extended mode?
@@HazyJay after over 50hours testing, both front drop about 1/8inch and rear stay the same. so this could be valve block issue? I hear hissing sound in the front when the vehicle is running.
Dude!!! Your Videos are the best!!!!! I live in Huntington Beach CA. Can I hire you to fix or diagnose a few things on my 2006 R/RS-S? I feel you are more trust worthy than a mechanic. Thanks
Unfortunately I live in Houston haha, but I feel your pain. Finding a trustworthy mechanic is hard which is why I learned to do most things myself, it's so much better knowing everything is torqued right and the fluids are all correct. My day job is actually in medicine.
This is the BEST video on this issue EVER.
STRONGLY AGREED BROTHER. MAY GOD HELP RECTIFY ALL OUR AND OUR RANGE ROVERS ISSUES!
1000% agree
This video summarizes everything that I learned over the past 2 years.
Amazing content. I spent 5k $$ and 2 years to learn all these things and you summarized it in 7 minus.
good tutorial , and easy to understand with the diagrams , thank you .
Omg, lifesaver. Best video on this subject ever. Thank you!
Love the animations! Thanks for the helpful info!
Best video ever about rr suspension leaks , great info ,keep it up
Excellent and easy to follow video. Thankyou
Great video man! Happy to see my 3D model from 0:06 was looking for some air suspension issue on my 06 RRS SC (which I made that 3D model after it). So thanks for the valuable info and supporting me by buying my 3D model, I have a stock version if you’d like, sorry for that plug! But again great video!! You have a new sub!
Thanks for making the model! I figured I would need to buy one since I'm a blender noob and yours is perfect 👌, hope my video helped you in some way.
@@HazyJay that’s awesome! Thanks! Happy blending! And the video was helpful! Thanks again.
Great video !
Tks
Hi there I recently changed my dryer and before I did the suspension would raise slowly in the front but would still raise but now after the dryer change the front won’t raise and the compressor goes. On and off a few times then comes up with a fault saying air flow code c1311 and I can’t figure it out plz any help
My controller for my system doesn’t seem to have power going to it. What I mean is no lights illuminate saying what’s going on and the hight doesn’t change when flipping the switch up or down. What do I do to fix this???
Awesome video! How would we know that it's not the compressor?
A faulty compressor alone wouldn't cause sagging, rather it would cause "Suspension fault normal height only" messages to appear shortly after starting the car as the compressor tries to fill the tank/springs but overheats.
@@HazyJay Right on, thanks for the response. I'll have to do this test, I don't think there's too much sagging when i come out to my rover in the morning. the fault comes on right after starting, and if i turn off the truck and turn it back on it goes away. It never comes on when driving on the highway, only when starting, and occasionally when driving slow.
@@rhandomskate Ah, sounds like the compressor, the compressor really only lasts around 10 years or 70k miles or so.
@@HazyJay I did the test where I pulled the fuse and let it sit overnight. My front end dropped about 3" over night, equally on both sides. Do you think I should replace the valve block and the compressor? Like I said, the warning goes away after restarting my rover and it seems to come back up to normal height again and then the warning light rarely comes on again after driving.
Just try replacing the valve block first as this would cause a front end drop when the fuse/battery is disconnected! Save the more expensive compressor for later, but a faulty compressor wouldn't cause a leak overnight.@@rhandomskate
This is a great video. I would assume this works with a RRS L494? I have a sneaky suspicion it’s my front passenger side airbag/valve block but will try this tonight.
The procedure should be the same but the fuse will likely be different, you will need to either look up the fuses or just disconnect the battery for the procedure.
amazing video
Replaced both front springs and cleaned out every piece of the front valve block. Front sags (tilts front left mostly). What are the odds the lines have issues?
I'd spray the top of the front left spring and front valve block with soapy water to see if the Voss connection is leaking. Also, consider replacing the front valve block entirely, the O-rings and solenoid seals may just be worn out and are allowing leaks back to the compressor.
Fantastic vid, my RRS 2.8 has been deflating about every day and sometimes it won’t raise at all, so I let it sit for few days and started it and it rose as normally I removed the Air suspension ECU fuse and it hasn’t sagged but my power steering was lost 🙈 any idea why?
The RRS has speed sensitive steering which changes the stiffness based on the speed, sometimes it errors due to voltage drops. I'd guess that leaving your car for a few days caused the battery voltage to drop enough to cause the module to error. I would let the car idle for a while to charge the battery, then unplug the battery for an hour (to reset), reconnect and try again. If it has been a few years since a new battery you can try that, I suggest AGM batteries. Otherwise, you may need to take to the dealer. Obviously check the power steering fluid level but I'm guessing this is normal.
Thanks for this! I found my LF air bag was leaking using this video on my 2012 Range Rover Sport with VDS. I just went ahead and replaced the front strut and shock assemblies but now I have an Active Dynamics Fault. Is this because the suspension needs to be calibrated? Or is this a bad strut? (I went aftermarket). Also worried that I didn't lift the vehicle right and damaged something..
Did you ever fix this
Im new to the range rover sport and the back was sagging like in the video. I followed the steps and took the fuse out. I came back in the morning and there was no sagging it was at the same height it was. Any idea what that could be thanks. Ps these are very good tutorials 👌
That's good, it means no leaks. If you're parking on an incline it will drop like that, also the system may need calibration at the dealer on a calibration (flat) surface.
@@HazyJay thank you very much
Do you have a video on that or main dealer mate ?
@@stephenpeak3004 it's a dealer service unfortunately 😕, as much as I dislike going to a dealer
Thanks for the video! My air compressor work only around 15-30 sec and it stop and the suspension light go on in the dash!
My compressor is new.
Anyone have a idea what it could be?
Same. Did you solve this issue?
Hi Everyone, I have a RR sport 2012 and I did the test removing the fuse. The result is that the front left drop 2cm but the front right rise 3cm. And the back right rise 10cm and the left rise 5cm! What should I do?
Raising should be impossible, I would repeat the test by disconnecting the battery, the fuse might be different for a non-l320 RRS
Last time I cleaned the rear air valve and I wasn’t sure about the order of the air hoses on the back. Do you think That the car is rising because I didn’t reassemble properly the rear valve?
Hazy, i have à Theory, maybe the weight of the engine being much heavier than the back, push the air to the back suspension. Like pressing a ballon, the air will go to the opposite side of the pressure. If I’m right then what is the air valve need to be replaced?
Hi everyone, I finally changed the central air valve and now the back part of the car is not raising anymore. My theory was right, the weight of the front part of the car was lifting the back part. Thanks Hazy for your videos!
Excellent
My 2011 landrover sages while I’m driving them sometimes it goes back but sages at 32 tape measure in the front and 34 in the back?
Hello Hazy! Thank you for this video. I have a question and I apologize if it's a stupid one. I have a leaking rear sway bar which is being replaced early November. (couldn't get an earlier appointment) I also have sagging on the front driver side and it progressively gets lower each day the car sits. I drive it about every 3 days and it corrects itself every time I do drive it. My question is are the sway bars part of the air suspension or are they 2 different systems? Thank you for any information you can give me. My vehicle is a 2013 Range Rover Sport Supercharged
The sway bar is just that, a metal bar, that links the left and right suspension to prevent body roll. While parked, the sway bar doesn't do anything, it really only stresses when you're taking sharp turns. The supercharged version has "dynamic stability control" which complicates things, this is likely what's leaking. Long story short, the rear sway bar leak shouldn't be causing your front driver side lowering.
@@HazyJay thanks for replying! Take care!
Hi thank you very much, but my L320 just drop low on one side, left side over night, new 4 air spring. Any clues where i can check, no fault codes.
Front and back?
@@HazyJay left side front and back, but not every night. But if i park with off road hight, the left side front and back all gonna drop to the normal hight.
Hi!! I am experiencing a similar scenario some people have called out below. The battery has been pulled for 3 days and it's sitting on a level surface. No sagging that we can tell. Is it possible it's some sort of bad sensor that is making the system think it's losing air when it is actually not? I am getting a suspension fault pretty much constantly while driving, and the screen shows the back 2 wheels sinking off and on within the display. Any thoughts? Thanks!
Yes, it's not a leak it's likely a faulty height sensor. Please see: th-cam.com/video/ipzjoeLZnq8/w-d-xo.html
What do you think it is when everything work no leaks and when I hit a bump is bottom out the rear Shock
Are you sure it's bottoming out (suspension completely compresses to bump stops) or does it sound like it bottoms out. If it's just the sound, it's likely the lower control arm bushings in the rear or some other suspension component.
@@HazyJay just sound like it when going over bump hit really hard
@@HazyJay Thanks for reply
@@chriselders6603 Be careful because a lot of things can make the noise, make sure it's nothing in the cabin (a tool box in the back) and if not, you may need to have someone rock the car while you look underneath, or possibly even rig up a go-pro and drive over a bump
@@HazyJay ok thanks well do much help
I'm in the process of changing all my air suspension to coils. check my Instagram
I have done that as well, I used this kit from AB: www.roverparts.com/suspension/air-coil-suspension-kits/L319SRK-OMEHL/
@@HazyJay Hi Hazy ,,I have chance to buy one Range Rover Sport V8 5.0 2014 140000km
But he have one problem with suspension fault CPU should
And some bodyshop work
He have estimated 10000 $CAD cost
He ask 25000 CAD
In the market here in Canada it's like 40000$Cad this car
Can I fix this fault CPU for reasonable price ?
Or change suspension with coil suspension?
This engine V8 5.0 it's reliable ?
Thanks
Thank you for taking the time to make this. You just saved me alot of time trying to understand the system. Perfectly explained. Thank you bud. Not all heroes wear capes
Hey I just wanted to say thank you for providing great informative repair vids for the l320. I bought one a year ago and have found your channel to be a great resource, there is such little content out there for these cars!
I feel like the L320 is the forgotten RRS, luckily it shares a lot with the LR3 and there are more repair videos on those 😅
Excellent information provided in a great way. If every car repair video on TH-cam was this good, the world would be a better place.
Superb very helpful and useful. I have always likes RR sports and finally bit the bullet and bought a superb 2006 HSE special model. Your channel is SO useful Thanks! Love from the UK !
Hi, just bought a RRS 2010 and Passenger rear (UK) side is sagging over night, not the whole rear. So problem would either be the air spring or the valve block ( not tested anything at the moment).
LMAO this happened to me and omg I thought my neighbors were trying to steal my truck 😂
So I had a few of these problems, replaced struts my self etc etc, ended up going to LR shop to see why still sagging over night and they said the driver side hose had a leak in it¿ $800 was there quote, is the air hose a manageable replacement¿ lmk thanks
Front driver side? The hard part will be running the hose under the body panels, but it's definitely doable. I wonder if the problem is really a leaking hose or if it's actually the valve block.
@@HazyJay I wonder too, they had it for two days, changed the o ring fittings, car pops up, they held it a day to see if it would hold ride height and then I’m sure went through all their checks and balances etc etc, and called me back and said everything was holding except the green driver line…
I see it on eBay for pretty cheap, any idea how long it will take rough estimate thank you so much for your response and videos trying to hurry and sort this so I don’t go through the compressor
@@moonbootmeechy You will need to remove the front right wheel to access the valve block and the top of the airspring, then it's just a matter of replacing the green line. You could probably tie a string to the old line before you pull it out of the bodywork so you can attach the new line to the string and pull it through, might make snaking the new line easier.
@@HazyJay okay… I have seen both components when I changed the struts myself so I imagine shouldn’t take more than a couple hours I hope…
I’ll try to tend to this next weekend, and I’ll will let you know my results wish me 🍀 and thanks again¡
Awesome video, thank you! Question, if I don't notice any change in height on the vehicle in the morning, but I hear the compressor running for a min or two upon startup, is that normal? Is it just replenishing air in the reservoir? Or is it likely due to a slow leak?
While driving the vehicle will use the reservoir to make height adjustments, so when the car is turned off, the reservoir will be partially empty and it will not refill while the car is off. Because of this, when you turn the car on it will need to run for a bit to refill the reservoir even with no leaks.
I salute you sir... Just managed to get a cheap disco with a new pump that is clearly suffering from further leaks. If you want something done *rolls up sleeves - you watch a video on TH-cam 🙌
Excellent job explaining the processes and procedures!
Great video, my truck goes down on the rear right only every overnight. Tried Disconnecting the battery overnight and it didn't go down at all. That would indicate it's the ride height sensor?
That's a good guess, I would change that first considering it's pretty cheap.
Thank you so much, this answers alot of my questions... I take it the vehicle has to parked on level ground overnight(excuse my stupidity😋). Been in and out of so many forums and this is the best explanation I could find so far 🙂🙏🙏.
It should be on relatively level ground, If it's a slight incline the front might drop some just from that. You can tell if it's the incline causing it by parking in reverse and seeing if the rear lowers instead.
Hi haze I tested it and my front passenger side is the culprit. It lost 2cm over 48 hours. I see some videos say there is an acceptable limit if it drops less than an inch. Do you recommend changing the air spring or is it normal to lose a little air?
I think 2cm is OK, if it starts getting worse then you'll know what you need to change but it's probably OK to wait until it's more significant.
Your video is the best video on Range Rover suspension issue 👍👍👍
I have an issue where the vehicles actual height and height on screen don't match.. is it the height sensor?
For all wheels or just one? It's either the height sensor (s) or the vehicle needs calibration.
@@HazyJay it's the rear right . Says height sensor faulty . But somehow car levels itself but stays slightly crooked. Whereas screen shows red blinking completely down wheel
@@asadmo oh ok, I would replace that height sensor in that case. Should be a cheap fix.
@@HazyJay I've got it with me. Any idea how to fit it as in jack it up or extend it ? It's a 2011 sport
@@asadmo You'll have to remove the wheel since it's too hard to reach otherwise (i believe), remember to disconnect the battery so the car doesn't try to change heights while you're doing it.
Superb video. Best I've seen on this topic
Thank you so much for sharing! I learned a lot from your videos! I have a question. Sometimes there is a hiss after flame out. With the hiss, two front wheels get lower rapidly at the same time. Do you think there is a problem with the valve (front valve or middle valve)? Thank you again!
Sounds like the valve is working fine, the car will level once it's turned off (downwards only)
I wanted to comment and thank you for your videos on the RR Sport. I have recently replaced the Compressor on my 2008 Sport SS based on your video instruction, and now have determined the codes / messages that you got for the 'ride height sensor' (RHS) were the exact same as I am getting and it randomly collapses to the bump stops after those warning messages. I can start it and go for an unknown period of time, then same failure again. The air test overnight resulted in no movement at all (not even 1/16 of an in.!) at each corner and no front or back reduction, so I am hopeful it is just the LF RHS - the OEM part is due to me Monday or Tuesday. I will rebuild/replace all valve blocks in the future even if they indicate no problem at present. I will also leave a comment on the compressor replacement video regarding that procedure. Thanks again! Best, Jim
Hey there hazy, so i replaced my front bags and it camed with new seals and now but not all the times i see the vehicle sag still in front could it be the front valve block and i get a dynamic error code in dashboard and rides rough can it be the valve block and height sensor?? Thanks for you response
If the entire front is down after unplugging the battery all night, it's likely the valve block. A height sensor issue would have unusual heights on the 4x4 info in the dash (versus real life), so luckily that's easy to see. I'd consider changing the valve block since it's fairly cheap and easy 👌
Will try this thank you
Mr. Hazy, a stumped LR3 owner here. I replaced the air struts, front and rear valve blocks are within a year old, overnight test confirms no leaks. But there seems to be an electrical issue. When I disconnect and reconnect the battery, I can freely raise and lower via the switch. Then, with no fault on the dash, EAS goes into "auto" mode, orange lights by switch go solid, 4x4 infotainment screen and radio lose function, and the suspension goes into normal height to drive and access mode at key off.
Standard OBD2 scanner says vehicle is free of faults.
Any insight would be helpful.
hello, I have such a problem with lr3, I hear that the compressor turns on often, sometimes it regulates itself, the car lets in and releases the pressure from the rear airbag when I leave the car on, it also does not fall from the given corner for 24 hours. I do not know what it could be, as I wrote, the compressor comes on often, and it seems that there is no leakage, maybe someone knows something about it. hello and thanks for the videos👍👍👍
great video, helped me a lot to under stand the system. I'm having a
problem still, after finding the 2 front bags leaking and replaced, the front valve block replaced and the pump replaced its still dropping. With the fuse out i get a drop over night FL 30mm,FR 50mm, RL 5mm and RR 25mm also now the car will not actually level with each corner doing a different height. Ive sprayed them all with soapy water with no bubbles showing. any ideas would be great thanks.
This video is incredible at simplyfing the mechanicals behind the system. Thank you for this!
Do you know how the different sensors all play into the air suspension? Like do wheel speed sensors help govern the behavior of it?
If the passenger side rear drops while driving, do you think this is a bad air spring? I installed new rear springs about a year ago but it is now dropping while driving
I don't have the Range Rover Sport but the LR3. After watching Hazy's other videos, I've never seen video illustrations of air suspension of LR3 and this videos are awesome. The graphical display illustrations are A++, it is so simple to understand
Excellent! Very instructional and professionally done!
I'll be trying this very soon.
Thank you!😎👍
Brilliant. That is the best explanation of how the Landrover air suspension works. I have a Disco 4 which i am led to believe is the same. Thank you.
Where do I go to get a $50-60 Middle valve block for 2006 RR HSE L322? Do you happen to have part number? Thanks
Awesome, thats exactly what I needed. Thank you so much!!!!! Great explanation!!!
My 2019 RR Sport SC V8 with 76K miles as started sagging a little in the front over night. LR Dealer could not find leak.Dealer thinks it's a pinhole leak in the system. But they couldn't find the leak. The truck is not throwing any codes, nothing on the dash.They didn't charge me for the two day diagnostic. Their plan is to wait for the system to throw a error code. Any thoughts from you would be much appreciated . Great channel by the way !! Very informative.
Great video and thank you. Q4U. My 2013 RRS driver side rear sags at night bit at times if I drive long for 20 mins it will rise back up but I keep getting. Suspension fault and the higher controls are offline. I replaced the battery and reset with the steering wheel and sometimes it works and sometimes not. My next step is to replace the rear block. Would you suggest anything else?
Whsts yhe difference between $50 valve block and $100? I changed all 3 but still back and front wont raise. The compressor works but after a charge in air it lets the air out becaise air is not going to struts.
I have the same problem, a 2010 Land Rover Sport tilts to the right side, front and rear, and when driving on the road, the air pump stops working, which causes the vehicle to slide
I tried disconnecting the battery terminal and left it for 1 night but the suspension wouldn't go down. where's the problem?
I have found that my front right started to sag and then rear right. So my entire right side sags in a matter of hours. Valve block?
will the self leveling system still work overnight if you leave the hood popped open? if not then you don't have to remove the negative terminal or fuse
So after leaving over night with fuse 26 removed. And none of the airbags drop at all.
What do you suggest could be the problem?
Fronts raise slowly when compressor running etc but the rear bags fly up pretty fast.
What is the problem with the vehicle? The good news is there are no leaks since it stayed up over night. The rear typically will rise faster due to less weight in the rear (engine in front).
Hi, I have a question. I have a Range Rover 2009 Sport. It descends on the left side, the front and rear are the same size. I mean, it descends on the left side of the front and back a little, even if it is standing or walking.
The front and rear are controlled by separate valves, so there are two possibilities. 1. you happen to have leaks on the left side front and rear springs or at the valve blocks or 2. the air suspension needs to be calibrated to be level.
This video was one of the best of its types!!
Thank you ,very accurate explanation
Unbelievable video. thank you so much
My compressor comes on randomly all the time
Hey Hazy, what if the passenger side (front and back) doesn't raise, what could be the cause of that?
Most likely the bags. Lower the vehicle all the way to access mode. Turn car off and wait for compressor to shut off. Turn car back on and raise it. Step outside the vehicle and start spraying soapy water on the strut towers. If they aren't taking any air and there's lots of bubbles then that's the culprit. If not then refer to your valves.
Perfect ten*!! Thank you
Good stuff man. Just spent $18k at a Brit specialist and that's it. From now on itnis DIY.
That's the spirit, definitely will save some 💰
Is the L405 suspension the same?
great video! thanks again
What if one side is leaning more than the other? My left side are both lower than me right
Does the 4x4 info screen show that both sides are level? If so It might need to be calibrated.
@@HazyJay no, the front right tire looks like it’s falling off the car on the screen😂
@@alexcora2369 likely need a new front right height sensor in that case, check out my video on height sensors 🤙
@@alexcora2369 only like 50$ and pretty easy to do, don't even need to take the wheel off
@@HazyJay you’re awesome! Thank you!!
Very good! Congrats
GREAT VIDEOS. I've done what this video says but it don't sag at all but it sags overnight when I put the fuse in. Any ideas? I had leaks in the front and replaced both front struts, front valve block as well as the middle valve block but there is still some sagging overnight
When the fuse is out let it sit and measure each wheel height manually, which one is sagging?
It doesn't sag at all with the fuse out
There is no sagging at all with the fuse out
I have just discovered that the air lines on the front valve block are all in the wrong places (courtesy of previous owner). The line that's supposed to go to the air compressor is in the port for the right strut; the line that's supposed to go to the left strut is in the air compressor port; and the line that's supposed to go to the right strut is in the port for the left strut.
I'm just curious about what this might do to my system. I will be correcting this.
When lifting the system all solenoids are open so they would share the same gallery regardless, however, I would predict the vehicle wont be able to equal pressure between the springs or vent excess air correctly in this configuration.
@@HazyJay Thanks very much for the reply. I'll be checking the lines to the rear valve block based on your other video to make sure they're in correctly too.
Hey Hazy thank you for your clear videos.
My issue is the (right rear) side sag when left overnight.
I took off the fuse "F26" overnight and the result next day was still sagging (right rear).
So now what's the verdict?
Likely a leak with the right rear airspring or it's connection to the valve block.
I would spray the spring with soapy water to see if there is a leak, if not, try replacing the valve block.
Sorry I forgot to mention I already did that, couldn't really see anything.
But thanks for your rapid response tho!
Brilliant!
Hi what about is is drivers side go down front and back ? Thanks for you videos.
Same principle should apply, remove the battery connection (or fuse) to localize the leak. If there is no leak, consider you may be parking on a sloped horizontal (left or right) surface or the sensors need calibration.
Thanks
Ditch the music...... can't hear the leak man.
The vehicle in the video has coil springs, it's used for demonstration only 😅
🤝
This is the best troubleshooting video ever.
BEST VID ON TH-cam!!
Good explanation ❤️
Hi dear friend i have question for you what DO you think about 2011 Range rover supercharge tilt to Right side front and rear
Please let me know thank you
Front AND rear one-sided sagging is likely due to a calibration issue, consider going to a dealer and having it calibrated.
Thanks mate
Awesome Hazy! I've troubleshoot and repaired a couple of suspension problems on my RR thanks to your simple yet well detailed videos. Thank you brother! I truelly appreciate your time.
thank you so much .
How do I go to extended mode instead of off road height? Thanks
Extended mode will be selected if the vehicle senses it has become "grounded" on a rock or something, but it cannot be selected manually. You can MAKE it go to extended mode by placing a block of wood under the jack point while it's in extended mode and lowering the chassis onto the block, causing it to go to extended mode.
@@HazyJay thanks for the quick response! Just want to clarify..so off road mode then place a block at jack point, then try to lower it, and it will go to extended mode?
@@95x300 Yes, the block should be just below the jack point when in off-road mode. You can usually drive about 30mph like this.
@@HazyJay after over 50hours testing, both front drop about 1/8inch and rear stay the same. so this could be valve block issue? I hear hissing sound in the front when the vehicle is running.
Thank you 🙏
Best explanation for this system! Thanks for putting this together and sharing your knowledge!
Dude!!! Your Videos are the best!!!!! I live in Huntington Beach CA. Can I hire you to fix or diagnose a few things on my 2006 R/RS-S? I feel you are more trust worthy than a mechanic. Thanks
Unfortunately I live in Houston haha, but I feel your pain. Finding a trustworthy mechanic is hard which is why I learned to do most things myself, it's so much better knowing everything is torqued right and the fluids are all correct. My day job is actually in medicine.