You are supposed to use pillow blocks (with thrust bearings and collars) with flexible couplers. Also, if you have horizontal misalignment you can use Oldham couplers or the like
The motor work isn’t necessary. Hold the screw rigidly in place with the bearing blocks. Pull the blocks apart a bit to take out any end play in the bearings. The “springiness” in the coupler is to protect the bearings in the motor from damage from misalignment. There is no such thing as a perfectly aligned screw drive
Get rid of that "downward springyness" by putting a 6.3 mm ball bearing in the coupler and let the lead screw rest on it. It will support the weight while still allowing the leadscrew to wobble. I got that idea from Alex Kenis,who has a detailed video on here explaining the "hack". Thanks Alex!
works sometimes. The best thing to do is get rid of the spring style couplers with set crews and get some plum couplers. Set screws cause way to many issues such as the lead screw crawling up the set screws. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RMZCLZ3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The "springy" couplers are called helical beam couplers. When installed correctly they shouldn't spring but should reduce axial, angular, radial misalignment.
If the 3 piece unit were sized exactly, you would probably need a hammer to put it together. The same with everyday nuts and bolts. If the tolerance is too small they bind and don't fit together.
You are correct Mr. Abdullah, the main purpose of a flexible "springy" coupler is to compensate for misalignment. Unless you are building a perfect system, misalignment will always exist. A solid coupler would work but he will need to spend time re-aligning his axis. Still he will get more radial load that wears his bearings faster, make a bit more noise or lose motor torque.
this spring antibacklash system is so stupid it is amazing people still buy this bulshit. if you only fit one part of the nut to the carriage any force greater than the spring will render it useless. for the Z axis for example imagine the spring is pushing the spindle upwards. That is at least 1KG lifting power for an anemic spring like that? and if you are milling something hard like alminium the z tends to vibrate so you need at least 3kg lifting power in the tiny spring to remove that vibration? still people buy them . amazing
After removing the spring washer and replacing it with solid shims, does the raise in temperature of the motor, after it has been running a while, cause any noticeable difference in motor performance?
I don’t think you get the point of the plays that you’re chasing everywhere. Not all plays and what you call “springiness” are evil. Many of them are here for a reason. You should read more literature. Gut feelings only go so far. Additionally, by doing multiple “upgrades” simultaneously, you lose visibility on their impact.
Actually on the springiness, a lot of high tech systems eliminate backlash by using spring designed to operate near linearly in certain ranges. That way they dont need joints and linkages. Think mems systems, thry are currently scaling these machines up and constructing robots using series elastic actuators. Why do we care since we are in 3d printing, well corexy and belt driven z systems connect the actuator to a long stiff spring all the way to its end effector, due to the pretension it decreases backlash but allows vibrations using serial spring actuation, and then we compensate the vibration out and we are back in the high tech sector. Looking at voron + klipper combos, some smart design thoughts went into those systems.
I accident stretched the shit out of mine I set my max height on my setting to 2000mm instead of 200 it tries going higher than normal keep in mi y my motor is mounted on the top so when it kept trying to pull and it stretched it
so from going from a standard pitch lead screw to the 2mm pitch lead screw do you have to teak profile settings or it works and its as easy as swapping them ?
You will definitely need to tweak your printer firmware to make this work since it's changing the pitch of thread. It will take effectively 4 times the amount of steps to make the same distance move and your printer has no way of knowing that. There is plenty of information out there if you search for lead screw mod or something similar. Also I'm aware this is 10 months old, I'm just putting this out there for people who may have the same question and see this.
You are supposed to use pillow blocks (with thrust bearings and collars) with flexible couplers. Also, if you have horizontal misalignment you can use Oldham couplers or the like
The motor work isn’t necessary. Hold the screw rigidly in place with the bearing blocks. Pull the blocks apart a bit to take out any end play in the bearings. The “springiness” in the coupler is to protect the bearings in the motor from damage from misalignment. There is no such thing as a perfectly aligned screw drive
Get rid of that "downward springyness" by putting a 6.3 mm ball bearing in the coupler and let the lead screw rest on it. It will support the weight while still allowing the leadscrew to wobble. I got that idea from Alex Kenis,who has a detailed video on here explaining the "hack". Thanks Alex!
works sometimes. The best thing to do is get rid of the spring style couplers with set crews and get some plum couplers. Set screws cause way to many issues such as the lead screw crawling up the set screws.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RMZCLZ3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The "springy" couplers are called helical beam couplers. When installed correctly they shouldn't spring but should reduce axial, angular, radial misalignment.
Are you growing crickets ?? is this normal at your home ?
In Australia I think the outside is also inside.
DEEZ NUTZ!
back to these nuts lol had me rollin u got some play i these nuts
"anyway...back to these nuts" 1:10
If the 3 piece unit were sized exactly, you would probably need a hammer to put it together. The same with everyday nuts and bolts. If the tolerance is too small they bind and don't fit together.
My "official" anti backlash nuts have zero play in them. Ordered the cheapest ones I could find from China, too. Must've gotten lucky. XD
Thanks a lot, is exactly I was searching!
Will you recommend me an 8mm pitch or 2mm pitch screw? Which one will give me more resolution on my printings with my Ender 3 V2?
If you put a ball bearing in the coupler it will not compress
Correct me if i am wrong, but the springy coupler was supposed to compensate for the misalignment between the motor and the shaft. Is it?
Exactly, this guy doesnt have a clue what he's doing
You are correct Mr. Abdullah, the main purpose of a flexible "springy" coupler is to compensate for misalignment. Unless you are building a perfect system, misalignment will always exist. A solid coupler would work but he will need to spend time re-aligning his axis. Still he will get more radial load that wears his bearings faster, make a bit more noise or lose motor torque.
Hi, so which is the best system finally for Cr-10 ?
this spring antibacklash system is so stupid it is amazing people still buy this bulshit. if you only fit one part of the nut to the carriage any force greater than the spring will render it useless. for the Z axis for example imagine the spring is pushing the spindle upwards. That is at least 1KG lifting power for an anemic spring like that? and if you are milling something hard like alminium the z tends to vibrate so you need at least 3kg lifting power in the tiny spring to remove that vibration? still people buy them . amazing
Perfect. Tsnks
Ha!!! these nuts!!!
After removing the spring washer and replacing it with solid shims, does the raise in temperature of the motor, after it has been running a while, cause any noticeable difference in motor performance?
what is the distance that you should have between the coupler and the z motor?
I don’t think you get the point of the plays that you’re chasing everywhere. Not all plays and what you call “springiness” are evil. Many of them are here for a reason. You should read more literature. Gut feelings only go so far. Additionally, by doing multiple “upgrades” simultaneously, you lose visibility on their impact.
Actually on the springiness, a lot of high tech systems eliminate backlash by using spring designed to operate near linearly in certain ranges. That way they dont need joints and linkages.
Think mems systems, thry are currently scaling these machines up and constructing robots using series elastic actuators. Why do we care since we are in 3d printing, well corexy and belt driven z systems connect the actuator to a long stiff spring all the way to its end effector, due to the pretension it decreases backlash but allows vibrations using serial spring actuation, and then we compensate the vibration out and we are back in the high tech sector. Looking at voron + klipper combos, some smart design thoughts went into those systems.
I accident stretched the shit out of mine I set my max height on my setting to 2000mm instead of 200 it tries going higher than normal keep in mi y my motor is mounted on the top so when it kept trying to pull and it stretched it
Could also get motors that have the screw already integrated and would not need couplers.
Are those 10x2 rods ? Where did you get the plastic nuts for these. I was searching ALI for ages and all I found are 8mm 6mm but no 10mm.
Is there anything like anti backlash nut for rotary joint?
Igus has polymer anti backlash nuts with lubrication in the material, and also "long life" versions.
I had 1mm on my Prusa I3 that I went to and it was too slow so on my corexy big machine I do plan on moving to 2mm for it.
Which Corexy did you go with? I've been thinking about getting one.
so from going from a standard pitch lead screw to the 2mm pitch lead screw do you have to teak profile settings or it works and its as easy as swapping them ?
You will definitely need to tweak your printer firmware to make this work since it's changing the pitch of thread. It will take effectively 4 times the amount of steps to make the same distance move and your printer has no way of knowing that. There is plenty of information out there if you search for lead screw mod or something similar.
Also I'm aware this is 10 months old, I'm just putting this out there for people who may have the same question and see this.
legendary info - thank you so so much.
You confused lead and pitch. The pitch on both screws is 2mm. It's the lead that is 8mm on the original.
deez nuts lol