Thats my first comment on a TH-cam-Video: Buddy you are an inspiration for everybody who is interested in making videos or building multicopter. My biggest respect to your work and time you spend to make these videos. Those are by far the best I have ever seen in this part of the hobby. Inspired by your videos I was building my own little lightbox to document parts of my own tricopter build. Thats where I realised how much time it takes to make an 11:00 min video. I would love to hear more information about your lightbox and slider. Your lightbox must be huge if it fits an FY680. Keep on with your work ! Christian
WOW, thanks a lot man! This means a lot to me. Yep, 11:00 min video is tough to make. About 15 hours of shooting and about 25 hours of video editing. I don't have lightbox big enough to fit the Tarot FY680 (unfortunately) so I have to mask a lot in post. :-P I use DIY motorised slider.
Worth waiting... Mate you have done it again, great video and will keep is saying it, your hard work making them will keep on going showing/providing people with nice clean builds! Thanks so much for taking time on editing your great quality builds!! Fly safe! Glad to see some one has sponsored a build for you! thumbs up foxtech! Keep eluminerRC happy! so we all can enjoy builds like this one! Ed
I may not be using the name brand components used in this video, but I'm still using a PDB, ESCs, motors a flight controller, receiver, etc, so this is still really good info and I'm using these videos to build my Tarot FY680. Thanks for your videos.
what size of prop. did you use? very well done, I like the way you done it look very easy with all the details but you miss the prop. and first test flight. The only thing you make me worry about when you put all those cables in that very small power board I thought is going to broke in pieces when you where tried to close the cover on it but you did it.
Splendid video as always. Even though I'm not a fan of these Tarot frames. They get the job done for sure, but they lack in aesthetics in my opinion. Mounting ESCs on the arms might be good for ventilation, but I still prefer to keep as much electronics as i can sandwiched between the frame.
I agree, white ESC on the arm is not the pretties thing on the world. However, this machine is more about function than form. If you look from technical perspective, having ESCs under props is the best way to mount them.
Hi, thanks to your excellent video series I'm close to finish my assembly too :). I like the idea with the antenna tubes.... but, I'm wondering where I find the tube clip for the little base? Found nothing similar or useful yet (thanks in advance for a source tip) ;)
I have one of these, it was nice to see how you built yours. Itd be cool to see your flight videos. Also, the person who built mine ziptied the ESC's in place by the arms, in such a way as to prevent the arms from folding, due to issues being reported that the holding clips were failing in flight. I didnt see if you had the older ones, or the ones I heard were sent out for warranty. Did you hear those issues before you got yours?Several things however Ive come across in research, and what Ive known. Most motor or ESC questions Ive read about extending the wiring to account for farther spaced out motors have led to the concensus being to lengthen the ESC leads due to several factors as lower resistance from the battery to the ESC, and less pulses for the filter caps to deal with. When you coupled the power leads together and then hid them inside the arm, that really threw me. You would never be able to access them again if they separated! I could see clipping the bullets off at 1 inch, soldering extensions on, then re-using the bullet connectors on the PDB end. The other thing Ive had to point out to people is their classification of pin connectors. Male pins are solid, always, regardless of what type of shroud or housing the pin gets inserted in for support. The female pin is always a socket, again regardless of what type of thread or barrel or housing it is in. Its why we call them male and female. This is true across the entire electrical and electronic industry. Servo leads are routinely called "male servo leads", but thats also not correct, only that they allow you to connect two sets of male pins. The extensions on the other hand have a male and female end each, however, NOT based upon the pin shroud, but the actual pins.
Nice placement of the escs so they are under the props and get lots of cooling. If you want to have your escs away fro. The motors and all that electromagnetic and static interference, use longer motor wires insyead of servo and power leads. Then cut a square in the heat shrink on yhe heatsink of the esc. Then get some heatsinks for computer graphics cards. Another possible fit may be heatsinks for computer motherboard northbridge and southbridge chips. Use heatsink adheasive thermal paste or thermal grease and zipties to hold them in place. The heatsinks don't have to be a perfect fit. A bit bigger or small (not too small) are fine This will improve the effectiveness of the manufacturers heatsinks. If you really know what you're doing you could completely remove and replace the factory heatsinks and replace them with better ones or even consider liquid cooling. Of course that would be better suited for large escs. The hardest thing would be keeping weight down. Liquid cooling isn't the lightest of options and definitely not for small drones.
Nice production No information on the tech side. Motors or esc 40 amp escwith those tiny motors what are you thinking? At most you would use a 30 amp esc.Even w/ tiger motors 4015 40 amp esc is NOT recomended. The enigeers reomend the t- motor 30 amp esc w/ 45 amp burst rate. This set-up is for 6-S power not 4-s. Curious on your choice in ESC. I have to use commercial industrial rated equipment to comply w/ FAA regs. on craft weighing more than fifty five lbs. and flying beyond line of sight.
Well, it is not recommended, but there is simply no place to put them on main frame. I don't expect any problems because this is relatively short extension.
Bravo, bravo, bravo! Fantastic video! This is Art my friend :) Is it possible to put the ESC on the bottom of the arms, i don't like to see them on the top lol Million of thumbs up for you ;) Thanks for sharing and happy new week
Thanks man! Well, it is possible, but they are meant to be on the top. I don't like on the arms either, but there is simply no place in the center of the frame.
So I'm hoping to start my first build soon, but I don't want to make the same mistakes others have by buying the wrong components. It seems that you and some of your followers are pretty knowledgeable about this stuff. My whole goal once it's finished is to be able to fly a 6 pack to my buddy's house about 6 miles away, fly it home, and to learn how to build and fly these things. I don't really care about the cost of the parts (within reason) but pretty much have an unlimited budget as I will be doing this over the next 6 months or year or so. I notice that on the motors there is usually 4 digit number and then another number that is assigned a kV rating, how do I translate that? what is a ridiculously bad ass motor for a 1000mm or 1500mm hex. Is there anyone out there that wants to kind of help me through the build?
I ordered the same powerd distribution board for my Tarot t960 hexacopter, do you think it is safe to use? To me it seems like the poles get dangerously close to each other, maybe cause a spark or so.
Or you could make it even better by using Tarots controller and GPS . And leave all the DJI headache out of your build , you'll never get warranty on the DJI stuff if you need it anyway . And Tarot even answers the phone when you call . to survey I am still waiting for an answer about what you plan to do about warranty for the bad E300 motor I received . When I bought the kit 1 1/2 mounts ago there was nothing telling me they were disconnected and you didn't have replacement parts . I cant fly my F550 with only five motors You need to get something done to correct this problem you have been made aware of this for over a mount now I dont see what the hold up is . You either need to send me a set of matching motors with the correct esc's like the E310 or 6 2212 motors that work with the E300 esc's and a new bottom plate and all new screws as you recommend not reusing screws . I need you to make good on your warranty . And no for $549.00 I will not go away quietly and for get it . You need to make this right and soon . You already have all the information on this case so please take care of it . Not too happy costumer Spencer Boaz . They sent me a RMA Friday the 18th at 10:45 pm and closed it Sunday the 20th at 10:45 am .
why is most videos with drones having naza ,i have seen many other sorts. can any one answer,,is these naza better, i have seen other drones howering better with other fly program then naza. whats the deal.
I do assembly hexas to 4 years, distributed throughout Brazil and did several tests for years and came to the conclusion that it is better aerodynamics when used in the ESCS central plate, these ESCS placed close to the engine, create an unnecessary burden on tips of the arms and is harmful to the adjustment and stabilization of equipamento.A assembly is very beautiful, but the performance and functionality are ugly. Ps.Um clic not like is my
I realize Naza is probably what everyone is using, but I like open source, so I'm not doing Naza, or any of the other over priced pieces your showing here.
You have a hell of a talent putting together these videos. Best on youtube
Only magician can solder that PDB that way! Well done. Kudos to the master.
Damir Spanic LOL! Thanks! I have to admit, larger PDB wouldn't hurt. :D
Thats my first comment on a TH-cam-Video:
Buddy you are an inspiration for everybody who is interested in making videos or building multicopter. My biggest respect to your work and time you spend to make these videos. Those are by far the best I have ever seen in this part of the hobby.
Inspired by your videos I was building my own little lightbox to document parts of my own tricopter build. Thats where I realised how much time it takes to make an 11:00 min video. I would love to hear more information about your lightbox and slider. Your lightbox must be huge if it fits an FY680.
Keep on with your work !
Christian
WOW, thanks a lot man! This means a lot to me. Yep, 11:00 min video is tough to make. About 15 hours of shooting and about 25 hours of video editing. I don't have lightbox big enough to fit the Tarot FY680 (unfortunately) so I have to mask a lot in post. :-P
I use DIY motorised slider.
Worth waiting... Mate you have done it again, great video and will keep is saying it, your hard work making them will keep on going showing/providing people with nice clean builds! Thanks so much for taking time on editing your great quality builds!! Fly safe! Glad to see some one has sponsored a build for you! thumbs up foxtech! Keep eluminerRC happy! so we all can enjoy builds like this one!
Ed
Thanks a lot Ed! Your support on every single video means a lot to me. Thank you! ;)
2021 this guy is a professional technical and video maker
I may not be using the name brand components used in this video, but I'm still using a PDB, ESCs, motors a flight controller, receiver, etc, so this is still really good info and I'm using these videos to build my Tarot FY680. Thanks for your videos.
Fantastic video :) YOu should do a 2020 one !!!
Many things changed right?
Another sweet build. Great attention to detail. Smooth video w/professional editing. Nice.
Thank you! ;)
what size of prop. did you use?
very well done, I like the way you done it look very easy with all the details but you miss the prop. and first test flight.
The only thing you make me worry about when you put all those cables in that very small power board I thought is going to broke in pieces when you where tried to close the cover on it but you did it.
Great work! Love the high quality video as well as high quality build!!
Splendid video as always. Even though I'm not a fan of these Tarot frames. They get the job done for sure, but they lack in aesthetics in my opinion. Mounting ESCs on the arms might be good for ventilation, but I still prefer to keep as much electronics as i can sandwiched between the frame.
I agree, white ESC on the arm is not the pretties thing on the world. However, this machine is more about function than form. If you look from technical perspective, having ESCs under props is the best way to mount them.
That is a beautiful Hexacopter.
Hi, thanks to your excellent video series I'm close to finish my assembly too :). I like the idea with the antenna tubes.... but, I'm wondering where I find the tube clip for the little base? Found nothing similar or useful yet (thanks in advance for a source tip) ;)
I have one of these, it was nice to see how you built yours. Itd be cool to see your flight videos. Also, the person who built mine ziptied the ESC's in place by the arms, in such a way as to prevent the arms from folding, due to issues being reported that the holding clips were failing in flight. I didnt see if you had the older ones, or the ones I heard were sent out for warranty. Did you hear those issues before you got yours?Several things however Ive come across in research, and what Ive known. Most motor or ESC questions Ive read about extending the wiring to account for farther spaced out motors have led to the concensus being to lengthen the ESC leads due to several factors as lower resistance from the battery to the ESC, and less pulses for the filter caps to deal with. When you coupled the power leads together and then hid them inside the arm, that really threw me. You would never be able to access them again if they separated! I could see clipping the bullets off at 1 inch, soldering extensions on, then re-using the bullet connectors on the PDB end. The other thing Ive had to point out to people is their classification of pin connectors. Male pins are solid, always, regardless of what type of shroud or housing the pin gets inserted in for support. The female pin is always a socket, again regardless of what type of thread or barrel or housing it is in. Its why we call them male and female. This is true across the entire electrical and electronic industry. Servo leads are routinely called "male servo leads", but thats also not correct, only that they allow you to connect two sets of male pins. The extensions on the other hand have a male and female end each, however, NOT based upon the pin shroud, but the actual pins.
Nice placement of the escs so they are under the props and get lots of cooling. If you want to have your escs away fro. The motors and all that electromagnetic and static interference, use longer motor wires insyead of servo and power leads. Then cut a square in the heat shrink on yhe heatsink of the esc. Then get some heatsinks for computer graphics cards. Another possible fit may be heatsinks for computer motherboard northbridge and southbridge chips. Use heatsink adheasive thermal paste or thermal grease and zipties to hold them in place. The heatsinks don't have to be a perfect fit. A bit bigger or small (not too small) are fine
This will improve the effectiveness of the manufacturers heatsinks. If you really know what you're doing you could completely remove and replace the factory heatsinks and replace them with better ones or even consider liquid cooling. Of course that would be better suited for large escs. The hardest thing would be keeping weight down. Liquid cooling isn't the lightest of options and definitely not for small drones.
Nice production No information on the tech side. Motors or esc 40 amp escwith those tiny motors what are you thinking? At most you would use a 30 amp esc.Even w/ tiger motors 4015 40 amp esc is NOT recomended. The enigeers reomend the t- motor 30 amp esc w/ 45 amp burst rate. This set-up is for 6-S power not 4-s. Curious on your choice in ESC. I have to use commercial industrial rated equipment to comply w/ FAA regs. on craft weighing more than fifty five lbs. and flying beyond line of sight.
I have an T1100; how do you connect the ESC; did you connect them to the plate using the signal wire or just directly to the flight controller?
Any advantage of having the esc's next to the motors as opposed to having them closer to the centre of the body to help with CG??!
Nice demo. Watching in 2018. Which motors you will recommend for this frame...???
Thanks
How much did this entire project cost? No tools and materials, just frame, motors, flight controller, and esc's.
I'm not too sure about putting the ESC all the way out to the arms with out putting the right resistors between power.
It is not ideal, but there is no place to put them on the main frame.
Keep us updated if you end up placing resistors
Christian Frey I will!
Take bheli sunrise 20A esc (5cm long and 14mm width and remove the heat shrink it) fits very tight inside the 16mm tube.
Doesn't the FY680 frame have an integrated PDB? Or is that new since this video was published?
Nice vid, as always! But should there be no problem by extending the esc wires to the battery?
Well, it is not recommended, but there is simply no place to put them on main frame. I don't expect any problems because this is relatively short extension.
i love it. i cant wait to build my very own! and tnx for all the information in the bio!
No problem!
Great video! Just wondering if you're having any problems with the ESC? Do we need to place any resistors?
Thanks! No, no problem what so ever with ESC after more than 20 flights and with over 2.000 g off additional weight tests.
eluminerRC awesome! thanks for the reply ;)
Do you have a video that shows the completed build ready for take off from eRC and not the Helipal wantaB.
Was there any reason you didn't run S-Bus? or was it just personal preference.
can you please share the flight video link..
Awesome job nice & clean build
Bravo, bravo, bravo!
Fantastic video!
This is Art my friend :)
Is it possible to put the ESC on the bottom of the arms, i don't like to see them on the top lol
Million of thumbs up for you ;)
Thanks for sharing and happy new week
Thanks man! Well, it is possible, but they are meant to be on the top. I don't like on the arms either, but there is simply no place in the center of the frame.
eluminerRC Thanks for your answer! Have a great week
You too! ;)
So I'm hoping to start my first build soon, but I don't want to make the same mistakes others have by buying the wrong components. It seems that you and some of your followers are pretty knowledgeable about this stuff. My whole goal once it's finished is to be able to fly a 6 pack to my buddy's house about 6 miles away, fly it home, and to learn how to build and fly these things. I don't really care about the cost of the parts (within reason) but pretty much have an unlimited budget as I will be doing this over the next 6 months or year or so. I notice that on the motors there is usually 4 digit number and then another number that is assigned a kV rating, how do I translate that? what is a ridiculously bad ass motor for a 1000mm or 1500mm hex. Is there anyone out there that wants to kind of help me through the build?
Is there a particular sequence you solder the the ESC wires to the PDB..?
Nope! ;)
Where did the antenna tubing come from? Nice video!
eBay. Any antenna tubing will do.
Sorry, can you give a link for the the motors on the video? Coz under the link there is different motor.
MrAntonAc www.foxtechfpv.com/foxtech-motor-s3508-kv700-p-1414.html
Beautiful as always ! Keep up the great work:)
Thank you!
I ordered the same powerd distribution board for my Tarot t960 hexacopter, do you think it is safe to use?
To me it seems like the poles get dangerously close to each other, maybe cause a spark or so.
I had exact same worries. However, 10 flights in, I don't see any problems with it. If I'll have some, I'll let you know.
if the fc position to the left side the gps should point the same diraction or to the nose of the quad??
Special discount coupon code is in the video description! ;)
what battery should i get
what is your motor thurst.
hay i cant find any foxtech S3508 KV700 motors on e bay as well as foxtech MULTI-PAL 40 A OPTO ESCs Also how im find this things
Or you could make it even better by using Tarots controller and GPS . And leave all the DJI headache out of your build ,
you'll never get warranty on the DJI stuff if you need it anyway . And Tarot even answers the phone when you call .
to survey
I am still waiting for an answer about what you plan to do about warranty for the bad E300 motor I received . When I bought the kit 1 1/2 mounts ago there was nothing telling me they were disconnected and you didn't have replacement parts . I cant fly my F550 with only five motors You need to get something done to correct this problem you have been made aware of this for over a mount now I dont see what the hold up is . You either need to send me a set of matching motors with the correct esc's like the E310 or 6 2212 motors that work with the E300 esc's and a new bottom plate and all new screws as you recommend not reusing screws . I need you to make good on your warranty . And no for $549.00 I will not go away quietly and for get it . You need to make this right and soon . You already have all the information on this case so please take care of it .
Not too happy costumer Spencer Boaz .
They sent me a RMA Friday the 18th at 10:45 pm and closed it Sunday the 20th at 10:45 am .
Nice video, subscribed.
How much weight it carries with these motors? And what about flight time?
Ricardo Costa Please chech out the flight video about this hexacopter.
OK, thanks
Where can I find the pipe clip part?
Did you made it under a grand?
I appreciate these videos and know you're very busy, will this frame kit work with the new DJI A3 kit?
How many pounds is this equim?
hi, I know this vid is getting on a bit but what sort/brand of paste are you using to do the wire tipping?
None of the links work for me.
Excellent video but I want to move away from the DJI stuff now. I am interested in Naze32 and Pixhawk.
Aleem Mohammed Me too. That is why I'm going with Pixhawk on my next build. Can't tell you what it is, but it's pretty epic. ;)
hu tell me - what the model PDB ? small detail with cover.
I found it on eBay. Can't find it right now, though. :-P
+eluminerc How much did this project cost?
why is most videos with drones having naza ,i have seen many other sorts. can any one answer,,is these naza better, i have seen other drones howering better with other fly program then naza. whats the deal.
+eluminerRC How much did this cost?
nice clean build :D
flipporabasta Thanks!
Very pro video editing. :)
Thanks!
Amaziing
5:38 very dirty power distribution board
you just make awesome vedio.......
Eluminer your videos are fucking awsome!
Muito bom o vídeo!!!!! Me ajudou muito :-)
Great to hear that! ;)
waow what a mess with PDB i would never be able to do it
That’s horrible placement of the ESCs. It blocks the motor mount screws which constantly require adjustment on that frame.
I do assembly hexas to 4 years, distributed throughout Brazil and did several tests for years and came to the conclusion that it is better aerodynamics when used in the ESCS central plate, these ESCS placed close to the engine, create an unnecessary burden on tips of the arms and is harmful to the adjustment and stabilization of equipamento.A assembly is very beautiful, but the performance and functionality are ugly.
Ps.Um clic not like is my
I agree with this. But, in this build there is simply no place in the centre plate for ESCs if you want to keep folding capabilities of the frame.
That's a bit of an upgrade from that sk lol
;)
nice video
Thanks!
Проще s-bus подключать
Евгений Горский I could do that, but the this video would be useless for people without S-BUS receiver.
Way too much solder on most of those connections, but otherwise a great instructional video.
I could agree, but I never had a loose solder joint. So, they work! ;)
I realize Naza is probably what everyone is using, but I like open source, so I'm not doing Naza, or any of the other over priced pieces your showing here.
My dad made this
That PDB looks super bad and dangerous.
Видео ниочем
nice video