This video actually taught me a lot! Really like the time you guys took to show the difference between squeegee durometer. Really appreciate this. Thank you!
It's actually called "Shore" that is the number you see that designates the hardness, durometer is the testing method used to find a materials hardness.
such an informative video, short and sweet but a lot of great tips given. will suggest this video to others who need help with their white prints. thank you :)
The coating thickness and OEM is dependent on a number of things. The most important thing is that there is enough emulsion. Must feel it. There are measuring devices that people like Saati and Murakimi sell. I usually do a 2 on the shirt side and 2 on the ink side to force the thicker coating through the mesh and thus a thicker coating is achieved on the shirt side (dry the emulsion with the shirt side down). This can all depend on the type and viscosity of the emulsion. If a 2/1 coating gives you the desired thickness, then stick with that. Doing a face coat on the shirt side after first drying a previously coated screen can help a little with the quality of the coating but it adds very little additional thickness, but it does fill the voids and helps with edge definition. Do check with the emulsion manufacturer on what they recommend as well.
Yes. Starting at approximately the 7:40 minute mark, you'll see how we first print it via 110 mesh screen, then flash, then flattening screen, and then we printed the design again through a 160 mesh screen
Hi Evan, On the 110 mesh, the OEM is about 30% whereas on the 160 mesh it's 25%. We increased the OEM percentages on purpose, to increase the ink deposit. On the 110 mesh, the thread diameter is 71. On the 160 mesh, it did not state the diameter size, sorry. Generally, we do recommend a thinner mesh diameter to allow for more ink to pass thru the mesh.
Hi, on this particular print we did not choke the underbase since it was a one-color print. It can be helpful to do so, but not necessary. It was a simple one-separation print
This video actually taught me a lot! Really like the time you guys took to show the difference between squeegee durometer. Really appreciate this. Thank you!
Joel, thank you for letting us know. We appreciate it!
It's actually called "Shore" that is the number you see that designates the hardness, durometer is the testing method used to find a materials hardness.
Great video, would this work the same on water based inks?
such an informative video, short and sweet but a lot of great tips given. will suggest this video to others who need help with their white prints. thank you :)
Thank you for your kind comment!
How does one measure eom? Should we be applying a second coating of emulsion on shirt side after the screen dries? Or just coat heavily once?
The coating thickness and OEM is dependent on a number of things. The most important thing is that there is enough emulsion. Must feel it. There are measuring devices that people like Saati and Murakimi sell. I usually do a 2 on the shirt side and 2 on the ink side to force the thicker coating through the mesh and thus a thicker coating is achieved on the shirt side (dry the emulsion with the shirt side down). This can all depend on the type and viscosity of the emulsion. If a 2/1 coating gives you the desired thickness, then stick with that. Doing a face coat on the shirt side after first drying a previously coated screen can help a little with the quality of the coating but it adds very little additional thickness, but it does fill the voids and helps with edge definition. Do check with the emulsion manufacturer on what they recommend as well.
Did you hit it again after the flattening screen?
Yes. Starting at approximately the 7:40 minute mark, you'll see how we first print it via 110 mesh screen, then flash, then flattening screen, and then we printed the design again through a 160 mesh screen
What’s the actual screen mesh numbers ? 110/55? 160/55? Yellow meshes ?
What is the EOMr on the 2 screens and what thread diameter?
Hi Evan, On the 110 mesh, the OEM is about 30% whereas on the 160 mesh it's 25%. We increased the OEM percentages on purpose, to increase the ink deposit.
On the 110 mesh, the thread diameter is 71. On the 160 mesh, it did not state the diameter size, sorry. Generally, we do recommend a thinner mesh diameter to allow for more ink to pass thru the mesh.
Not sure on that, sorry Evan. We purchased these screens a long time ago and they've just been in our inventory.
Did you choke your undebase? If so, how much?
Hi, on this particular print we did not choke the underbase since it was a one-color print. It can be helpful to do so, but not necessary. It was a simple one-separation print
I asked our separator what he normally uses for an underbase choke for us:
-.009 inches