Love the video Colin; and your channel in general. It occurred to me that you don't need to make such a 'hard-wired' measuring jig for guides built on this lovely simply principle. Also you don't need to make the little angle wedge. Please bear with me! Simply take your (unnotched) base plate and lay it horizontal. At its end, fix a little vertical 'wall' at 90 degrees to the plate (making an L on its side). Push the blade-and-roller assembly firmly against this backstop and rotate the blade until its edge touches the base plate. Looking side-on, you now have a circle circumscribed by a right-angled triangle whose sides are the base, the wall and the blade. Using simple geometry you can get a really simple formula linking the angle of the bevel, the diameter of the roller and the distance from the wall that the blade hits the base plate. I've just done it and it works a treat :-) For your dowel of 1.25", the formula shows that a wall-to-bevel distance of 87.48mm gives exactly 25 degrees; 75.12mm would give 30 degrees, etc. Little stops could be put on the base plate for oft-repeated angles. Hope this helps.
Great idea. Thanks for sharing the free content. I should have tried this first before buying a sharpening jig plan which was a complicated design and did not work for me. This is a very simple design and I like how it ensures the blade is square with the side fence during setup.
This is a great beginner project because its a useful tool that almost everyone starting out needs to learn to sharpen and making the jig instead of buying it helps you learn to make something fairly simple. Can't wait to see how it works
Sometimes, or should I say most times, simple is better. This is one of those times. I've tried several other more complicated sharpening jigs. Aside from a "Worksharp" this is without a doubt the best jig out there. Simple to make, simple to use, and always end up with a super sharp and true blades. Thanks
I don't understand, how does the V-notch used for aligning the blade not subtly change the angle of the blade by lowering one end in the jig? Or is it a negligible change in degree?
That occurred to me too. Maybe a metal cylinder would work better. Other jigs online use castor wheels and even metal bearings, but surely the latter of these will gouge unwanted furrows in the stones?
Outstanding video. After watching several videos on this subject I built one like it and it performed perfectly. It is easy to adjust and use, and very precise. It only cost me the price of the butterfly nut ($1.39 for 4) and two 1/4 " screws ($.38) which I embedded in the dowel with epoxy. I used a piece of plywood for a grinding surface and it worked OK. I will be on the lookout for a small plate of glass to complete this set. Truly ingenious in its simplicity and effectiveness. Show less REPLY
How long do you expect the 1 1/4 inch dowel to last after it's rubbed many times over abrasive paper ? Won/t the angle of the bevel on the plane iron change as the dowel wears ??
I've had the same question. Most pressure will go on edge of blade but if dowel sands away you'll end up with sharper tool... Steel bearings is a must in my opinion.
Nice work on the jig! It is quite simple and easy to put together, as well as inexpensive - all things I like! One improvement you might consider is to eliminate the v-groove on the setting board...if you flip the jig over with the chisel or plane iron in the "roller" clamp after you have set the angle with your wedge, then pin the block to the board using that length setting. It saves a step in the construction process (making it even simpler to build!) Also, as Michael suggested, on a single board you could have multiple angle settings by using the top, bottom and both ends of the same board with different length measures set up on it. Great work - please keep it up!
Doesn’t the v-groove also affect the angle? If the bottom of the dowel sits below the plane at which you set the angle, but you sharpen in the same plane that seems to me like the change in height also changes the angle of the blade. Could you build up your groove instead of setting it in?
great jig and just as a FYI or heads up - cutting dowell can be easiest done on the band saw by using a vee shaped piece of wood with the dowell placed on the vee with the required amount protruding from the end of the wood. it can be made so the piece of wood is slotted in the mitre slot on the band saw
For a quick, cheap solution. Wood should be perfectly fine and won't wear down much if you use hardwood, ideally on a smooth metal, wood, or polymer surface
clever solution to an always not neatly solved problem!!! my advice: anaerobic thread locks (as the one you used) do better if you make them cure tightened regards from Argentina
Hi Colin, Great jig and video. I have a Stanley water grinding machine but I struggle with the blade alignment. I shall try your method as a control jig. Thanks. Colin from Northern Ireland
Hi Colin, I'm a great fan and love your video's, They are great and informative. I have just started using a compressor, Could you make a video explaining the difference in settings between Bar and PSI for us beginners please? I would be grateful.
This video came out at exactly the right time for me. But won't the dowel wear down over time and start altering your alignment? Guess I will need to see it in action on the next video, looking forward to it!
Correct me if I'm wrong, but it appears when the dowel is in the "V" slot, and you tighten the wingnuts... then when you position the jig on a sharpening surface... now the angle is different...no?
Yes and no. When he measured the blade angle, it was on a flat surface. When he made the secondary jig with the v groove, the stop block was placed wherever the blade protruded to, without moving it relative to the clamping part. Therefore so long as the dowel size, groove and stop block remain constant, he'll get a correct 25° angle when placed onto the flat surface of a sharpening stone or sandpaper as he demonstrates.
I think you are right, Martin. If he gets 25 degrees with the dowel partially submerged, he will not get 25 degrees when the rod is level to the edge of the blade. Frankly, I don't think he needs the large jig with the slot and the stop block at all. Once he cuts the 25 degree wedge he has all the jigs he needs.
@@rjamsbury1 If he gets 25 degrees with the dowel partially submerged, he will not get 25 degrees when the dowel is level with the edge of the blade. Frankly, I don't think he needs the large jig with the slot and the stop block at all. Once he cuts the 25 degree wedge he has all the jigs he needs.
I own an ancient (early 1950's) planer/joiner. I want to sharpen the three blades myself, using a jig styled after yours. Since I know little about what angle to use, would a 23 degree work ?
This would be good if you put axle trough center of dowel and two ball bearings larger than it on each end to be used as wheels. Also threaded rod doesn't need to go trough ,so you have place for center axle. Something similar can be made by using one peace of board and then using SK8 Linear Rail Shaft Support and 8mm axle(or larger if you want ) with 2 ball bearings.
If you have two common angles that you use, you can cut your "vee" shape in the middle of the alignment board and put a different measurement on each end. Be sure to mark the angle so you are not confused in the future If your board is long enough, you could even add a second "vee" and add two additional angles, for a total of 4.
I guess this is a place to start but with every stroke you are changing the angle of the blade. better to use a set of wheels to ride on instead of a wood dowel.
Micheal Trent......Shadup! Get your own channel if your so brilliant! Nice work on the Jig sir, simple (like Micheal) but very useful, thank you and looking forward to other ideas you have.👍 And Micheal did I tell ya to shadup lately. Oh yeah Micheal I do know how to spell "shut up" but for you it's shadup! Mr. Oneup
Timothy Hall was thinking the same but he said he was going to sharpen against sandpaper. I'm guessing he affixes a piece of paper to some glass and keeps the dowel off the paper. Over time it will wear down but not nearly as fast.
Collin, couldn't it be possible to secure bearings to the sides of the dowel for easy rolling rather than the metal t nuts which would wear your stone or paper too quickly?
Jesterakaozman, hi... my idea would be to bring a glas plate (or any other smooth surface.... wood would do fine) on level hight beside the stone and sharpening sideways. or in a circular motion.
Psych, I sharpen on glass plate with fabric backed adhesive sandpaper strips. Having rollers on the dowel would prevent wear on the dowel as well as limiting the chances for damage to both the paper and the glass.
Jesterakaozman . okay. i do understand now that you will move the jig not perpendicular to the blade as shown in the video. in that case ball bearings would make totally sense. but I suggested to move the jig beside the paper on the glas, perpendicular to the blade. in that case the wood has only contact to the glas, which should not cause any significant friction or wear.
This is by far the simplest and most efficient jig I found working perfect.
Endlich ein brauchbares Hilfsmittel um Geräte zu schärfen. Besten Dank für die Erklärung. Lorenzo
Love the video Colin; and your channel in general. It occurred to me that you don't need to make such a 'hard-wired' measuring jig for guides built on this lovely simply principle. Also you don't need to make the little angle wedge. Please bear with me!
Simply take your (unnotched) base plate and lay it horizontal. At its end, fix a little vertical 'wall' at 90 degrees to the plate (making an L on its side). Push the blade-and-roller assembly firmly against this backstop and rotate the blade until its edge touches the base plate. Looking side-on, you now have a circle circumscribed by a right-angled triangle whose sides are the base, the wall and the blade.
Using simple geometry you can get a really simple formula linking the angle of the bevel, the diameter of the roller and the distance from the wall that the blade hits the base plate. I've just done it and it works a treat :-) For your dowel of 1.25", the formula shows that a wall-to-bevel distance of 87.48mm gives exactly 25 degrees; 75.12mm would give 30 degrees, etc. Little stops could be put on the base plate for oft-repeated angles. Hope this helps.
I’m glad someone did one without needing bearings because I really just wanted to make something with what I had on hand in the shop
Hope it helps! Thanks for watching!
Great idea. Thanks for sharing the free content. I should have tried this first before buying a sharpening jig plan which was a complicated design and did not work for me. This is a very simple design and I like how it ensures the blade is square with the side fence during setup.
This is a great beginner project because its a useful tool that almost everyone starting out needs to learn to sharpen and making the jig instead of buying it helps you learn to make something fairly simple. Can't wait to see how it works
Thanks Holly. I'll have the video on how to use it up soon.
Sometimes, or should I say most times, simple is better. This is one of those times. I've tried several other more complicated sharpening jigs. Aside from a "Worksharp" this is without a doubt the best jig out there. Simple to make, simple to use, and always end up with a super sharp and true blades. Thanks
You're welcome! Thanks for watching!
I don't understand, how does the V-notch used for aligning the blade not subtly change the angle of the blade by lowering one end in the jig?
Or is it a negligible change in degree?
It must do. See my latest post, which avoids this.
He sets the angel before, this stop gives the 25 degree angle when it’s on plan ground, not 25 degree on the measuring block
I am fascinated with your little sharpening Jig for Chisels and Plane Blades. A very useful jig indeed.Thank you for sharing!
You're welcome. Thanks for watching!
Studied your video and hit the workshop. Works like a charm!! Thank you.
This an extremely handy jig. Affordable to make because here in South Africa the brand names are very pricy! Thanks, Collin!
Большое вам человеческое спасибо.
Colin, I really enjoy the simplistic solutions you have shown us on your channel. Thanks.
I'm glad you like them.Thanks for watching!
Am I wrong in thinking that the oil stone will wear away the radius of the dowel, with use, and thus alter the blade angle?
That occurred to me too. Maybe a metal cylinder would work better. Other jigs online use castor wheels and even metal bearings, but surely the latter of these will gouge unwanted furrows in the stones?
Made this jig yesterday and it works great! Thanks Colin
I like that & God knows I need to make it. Much less expensive than commercial sharpeners. Can't wait to see it in action.
Thanks for watching Joe. I hope it saves you some money.
Easy and efficient diy project. Just how I like it... Needed this so bad .thank you good sir
Thanks for watching!
Outstanding video. After watching several videos on this subject I built one like it and it performed perfectly. It is easy to adjust and use, and very precise. It only cost me the price of the butterfly nut ($1.39 for 4) and two 1/4 " screws ($.38) which I embedded in the dowel with epoxy. I used a piece of plywood for a grinding surface and it worked OK. I will be on the lookout for a small plate of glass to complete this set. Truly ingenious in its simplicity and effectiveness.
Show less
REPLY
Colin, Thanks for sharing this jig. I have made it and can say it works way better than I expected.
bravo bella idea
Esta genial la idea, económico y fácil de realizar
How long do you expect the 1 1/4 inch dowel to last after it's rubbed many times over abrasive paper ? Won/t the angle of the bevel on the plane iron change as the dowel wears ??
I've had the same question. Most pressure will go on edge of blade but if dowel sands away you'll end up with sharper tool... Steel bearings is a must in my opinion.
NICE!! I'm thinking 1-1/4" PVC & some scrap hardware..
these jig ideas are very cool and useful
Thanks
I like your videos they are so easy to understand.
GREAT IDEA SIR
Good little sharpening jig Colin. Thanks for posting it.
Very simple and useful. I like this
Simple and smart. Thank you.
Thanks for watching Hugo.
like the timing of the clip. just what i was looking for & needed
Nice Colin, I love your jigs really simple and easy to duplicate. Thanks
I'm glad they work for you Dan. Thanks for watching.
Muy buena idea, práctico y económico; Gracias por su explicación, saludos desde Santa Cruz de Tenerife
Nice work on the jig! It is quite simple and easy to put together, as well as inexpensive - all things I like! One improvement you might consider is to eliminate the v-groove on the setting board...if you flip the jig over with the chisel or plane iron in the "roller" clamp after you have set the angle with your wedge, then pin the block to the board using that length setting. It saves a step in the construction process (making it even simpler to build!) Also, as Michael suggested, on a single board you could have multiple angle settings by using the top, bottom and both ends of the same board with different length measures set up on it.
Great work - please keep it up!
Some great ideas Daniel. I'll consider them for version 2 of this jig.
Doesn’t the v-groove also affect the angle? If the bottom of the dowel sits below the plane at which you set the angle, but you sharpen in the same plane that seems to me like the change in height also changes the angle of the blade. Could you build up your groove instead of setting it in?
Thank you for another simple, time and money saving tip!
This is awesome thanks for sharing Colin ☺️
You're Welcome!
great jig and just as a FYI or heads up - cutting dowell can be easiest done on the band saw by using a vee shaped piece of wood with the dowell placed on the vee with the required amount protruding from the end of the wood. it can be made so the piece of wood is slotted in the mitre slot on the band saw
Hand saw and a vice or clamp is even easier
Nice jig. Thx Colin.
You're Welcome. Thanks for watching.
Please.give full skech with measurements & angles.
That's a clever design. Concerned about friction wearing out the dowel bottom. A Teflon rod may be a better material.
For a quick, cheap solution. Wood should be perfectly fine and won't wear down much if you use hardwood, ideally on a smooth metal, wood, or polymer surface
Wonderfully idea. definitely cheap. Oh what's that? You say all I need is several high saws n tools? A wearhouse to??? On it right away! 👍
clever solution to an always not neatly solved problem!!!
my advice: anaerobic thread locks (as the one you used) do better if you make them cure tightened
regards from Argentina
Excellent video Colin. Looking forward to trying mine out this morning. Thank you from Bonnie Scotland 🏴
Hope it helps! Thanks for watching!
Nice jig!. Thanks a lot.
Hi Colin, is there any reason you couldn’t epoxy in bolts and skip the t-nuts and threaded rod? Thanks from a nearly-third-generation Colin!
Thank you. I was just about to make the jig and this seems an easier way :)
Embora seja muito simples, parece extremamente funcional! Obrigado por compartilhar coisas boas!
Hi Colin,
Great jig and video. I have a Stanley water grinding machine but I struggle with the blade alignment. I shall try your method as a control jig. Thanks. Colin from Northern Ireland
Thanks for watching Colin. I hope it works out for you.
The 25 degree angle will change to 26 27 or 28 degree when the dowel is
raised on a flat plate. Or am I missing something and being dumb?
The v could be replaced by tacking 2 parallel strips of timber to hold the dowel on the face of the gauge board. This would keep the angle true.
Agreed. See my latest post to address this!
Hello sir. It is amaging technic. Thank you to for this video
Thanks for watching!
Very clever Colin. Good job!
Thank you!
Awesome
Thanks
Молодец товарищ, хорошая штуковина
Бэккэ толкуйдаабыт эбиккин👍, мин эрэй бөҕө көрөр этим, үтүктэн оҥостуон буоллаҕа.Махтал буоллун ытык кырдьаҕас✊
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Hello sir. It is very amazing tech. Thank you ti makng this video.
You're welcome.
Very Cool !!!! Thanks for the tip Sir
Bravo Master
Thank you
Nice low cost jig! 👍
Thanks for watching!
Very nice...
Hi Colin, I'm a great fan and love your video's, They are great and informative. I have just started using a compressor, Could you make a video explaining the difference in settings between Bar and PSI for us beginners please? I would be grateful.
Very clever thanks for sharing.
+toolman talal Thanks for watching!
Very cool jig.Cheap and effective thank you
Thanks for watching Joe.
This video came out at exactly the right time for me. But won't the dowel wear down over time and start altering your alignment? Guess I will need to see it in action on the next video, looking forward to it!
I'm releasing the video VERY shorty. Thanks for watching.
Good
@woodworkweb won’t the dowel just wear down over repeated use and change the angle?
GRACIAS
good work I am wood work
I like it.
Thanks Steve!
Nice work
That's awesome
Thanks for watching Anthony
Is there a model for kitchen knife's?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but it appears when the dowel is in the "V" slot, and you tighten the wingnuts... then when you position the jig on a sharpening surface... now the angle is different...no?
Yes and no. When he measured the blade angle, it was on a flat surface. When he made the secondary jig with the v groove, the stop block was placed wherever the blade protruded to, without moving it relative to the clamping part. Therefore so long as the dowel size, groove and stop block remain constant, he'll get a correct 25° angle when placed onto the flat surface of a sharpening stone or sandpaper as he demonstrates.
I think you are right, Martin. If he gets 25 degrees with the dowel partially submerged, he will not get 25 degrees when the rod is level to the edge of the blade. Frankly, I don't think he needs the large jig with the slot and the stop block at all. Once he cuts the 25 degree wedge he has all the jigs he needs.
@@rjamsbury1 If he gets 25 degrees with the dowel partially submerged, he will not get 25 degrees when the dowel is level with the edge of the blade. Frankly, I don't think he needs the large jig with the slot and the stop block at all. Once he cuts the 25 degree wedge he has all the jigs he needs.
@@claudiodigregorio4315 I think it's better because, the large jig is going to bé both faster and gets the blade square to the dowel.
The v is just to hold the jig not to lower the height
I'm confuse, the dowel is in a cut-out, when the jig is set on a sharpening stone, the angle won't be the same
Amazing!
simple and clever. tu
You're Welcome. Thanks for watching.
great! thanks!!!!
You're welcome Allan.
Ordered your book on jigs a few weeks ago. How can I make sure my order went through. How long does it take to get delivery?
Sweet!
I have a horrible time cutting ready rod. Please can you help me with some tips to get it right first time?
question - wont the wood simply get sanded down with each pass and create a shallower angle every time?
Parabens
YeHoVaH Bless....
спасибо.
perfect!
Thanks
I own an ancient (early 1950's) planer/joiner. I want to sharpen the three blades myself, using a jig styled after yours. Since I know little about what angle to use, would a 23 degree work ?
While sharpening, the Rowell won't be worn out?
นี้และยูทูบที่ผมเคยดู
Nice jig. :-)
This would be good if you put axle trough center of dowel and two ball bearings larger than it on each end to be used as wheels.
Also threaded rod doesn't need to go trough ,so you have place for center axle.
Something similar can be made by using one peace of board and then using SK8 Linear Rail Shaft Support and 8mm axle(or larger if you want ) with 2 ball bearings.
Yes, there are many modifications you can make to this project. Thanks for the tips.
great tip thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching.
If you have two common angles that you use, you can cut your "vee" shape in the middle of the alignment board and put a different measurement on each end. Be sure to mark the angle so you are not confused in the future If your board is long enough, you could even add a second "vee" and add two additional angles, for a total of 4.
Ok, ok!! One more "V" and you ended up paying an storage room to keep it.
И как этим пользоваться? Где колесики или подшипники?
I guess this is a place to start but with every stroke you are changing the angle of the blade. better to use a set of wheels to ride on instead of a wood dowel.
It's been my experience when you cut threads like on your "ready rod" you can't thread anything on. Would you explain this please?
file the ends. It's metal that's in the way of the threads that can easily be removed
@@shuttie92 Or just put a nut on the rod first and recut the threads as you remove it after the cut.
???👍👍👍👍💪
Micheal Trent......Shadup! Get your own channel if your so brilliant!
Nice work on the Jig sir, simple (like Micheal) but very useful, thank you and looking forward to other ideas you have.👍 And Micheal did I tell ya to shadup lately. Oh yeah Micheal I do know how to spell "shut up" but for you it's shadup! Mr. Oneup
Unless he has a trick I worry for the integrity of the dowel as it gets rubbed during sharpening.
Timothy Hall was thinking the same but he said he was going to sharpen against sandpaper. I'm guessing he affixes a piece of paper to some glass and keeps the dowel off the paper. Over time it will wear down but not nearly as fast.
Seth Bracken that makes sense! Rubs on the glass and sandpaper height from glass does not affect the angle in any discernable manner.
You'll see how it all work in my next video. It will be up soon. Thanks for watching.
Cool Daumen hoch von mir.
Gruß Rauman
Dobre ok
Collin, couldn't it be possible to secure bearings to the sides of the dowel for easy rolling rather than the metal t nuts which would wear your stone or paper too quickly?
Jesterakaozman, hi... my idea would be to bring a glas plate (or any other smooth surface.... wood would do fine) on level hight beside the stone and sharpening sideways. or in a circular motion.
Psych, I sharpen on glass plate with fabric backed adhesive sandpaper strips. Having rollers on the dowel would prevent wear on the dowel as well as limiting the chances for damage to both the paper and the glass.
Jesterakaozman . okay. i do understand now that you will move the jig not perpendicular to the blade as shown in the video. in that case ball bearings would make totally sense. but I suggested to move the jig beside the paper on the glas, perpendicular to the blade. in that case the wood has only contact to the glas, which should not cause any significant friction or wear.
👍👍👍 menuiseire morooco