NO MORE JAMS on the Prusa i3 mk3 3D Printer!

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 มี.ค. 2019
  • Print WAY easier with your Prusa! Thanks to Squarespace for sponsoring - use www.squarespace.com/3dprintin... for 10% off first purchase!
    The heat break in the Prusa i3 mk3 has a 2mm bore from one side, and a 2.2mm bore from the other side. This causes certain filaments, such as HTPLA from Proto Pasta, to jam at normal PLA temps. We swapped it for a straight through 2mm bore E3D heat break - WILL IT WORK?
    LINKS FROM THE EPISODE:
    E3D Tech Doc On Heat Break:
    e3d-online.dozuki.com/Documen...
    Prusa i3 mk3:
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    Proto Pasta filaments:
    3d.pn/protopasta
    E3D Heatbreak:
    www.printedsolid.com/products...
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ความคิดเห็น • 403

  • @MakersMuse
    @MakersMuse 5 ปีที่แล้ว +68

    Fascinating!!! There's always a reason... the '3D Printer Gods' don't just hate us. I think.

    • @maverickmaker
      @maverickmaker 5 ปีที่แล้ว +21

      No the gods do not hate us, just Prusa's arrogance in assuming everyone wants MMU. They should have made the straight trough the standard and include the special heat break with the MMU kit.

    • @varukasalt
      @varukasalt 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Except this isn't true. The heat break isn't the problem. It's their shity filament

    • @blairpoll287
      @blairpoll287 4 ปีที่แล้ว +5

      @@varukasalt it is definitely their heatbreak I have this issue with just plain pla if it's small layers or has lots of retractions.
      Also the noctua fan is too underpowered.

    • @CaptainKiwiii
      @CaptainKiwiii 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      ​@@blairpoll287 I do have this issue on each print past 4/5 hours since i upgraded to mk3s..

    • @blairpoll287
      @blairpoll287 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@CaptainKiwiii put a sunon fan one will stop 90% of jams then change the heartbreak to solve the other 10%

  • @ekkesa
    @ekkesa 5 ปีที่แล้ว +9

    Thank you Joel! This explanation of the heatbreak explains the endless headaches I have with clogs printing PLA on the MK3. I have replaced almost all the parts on my extruder without solving it - At least now I know whats causing it and find settings to work around it.

  • @RonFloyd
    @RonFloyd 5 ปีที่แล้ว +11

    Community problem solving at its best! Well done Joel, Alex, and Keith! Thanks.

  • @jamesk1619
    @jamesk1619 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    THANK YOU FOR THIS!!! You helped me solve a year old problem. I essentially gave up on printing silk pla due to constant jamming and inconsistent extrusion (not a prusa). I spent so many hours/days trying to fix this which included replacing the whole hotend assembly.. but never did I realize the issue was the design of the heatbreak. I immediately bought some smooth bore heatbreak (went with titanium because it was available) and BAM! smooth prints after smooth prints. There are still occasional jams due to heat creep but it's far and few between. I've almost gone through the 5 spools of different silk pla and ordered more. Thanks again!

  • @boozekashi
    @boozekashi 5 ปีที่แล้ว +7

    Embedded bloopers is a fun format :) Interesting and informative to run down the subtleties of engineering changes that can make such a difference. Also very nice that a couple different solutions were presented.

  • @MMuraseofSandvich
    @MMuraseofSandvich 5 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Fascinating explanation of the Prusa specific heat break.

  • @MatBettinson
    @MatBettinson 4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Jesus guys. Brilliant. I saw this and then thought... but I haven't had a jam for a while... and sure enough, a jam. And they're always the same, they get stuck up in the hot end and this explains it perfectly.

  • @KitchenHooligan
    @KitchenHooligan 5 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Wow that was fascinating. As a QA guy, this level of problem identification and problem solving trips my trigger. Great vid.

  • @propsandpop9726
    @propsandpop9726 5 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    Had an extra e3d hot end from another printer so I did the swap. It worked perfectly with no more clicking and clogging!! Thanks Joel!!!

  • @vandal63
    @vandal63 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks! I've been fighting this issue for a while with Silk and other additive PLAs. I didn't know the MM heatbreak was different. Excited to swap it out.

  • @fargle2nd_117
    @fargle2nd_117 4 ปีที่แล้ว +47

    Thanks to this vid I'm no longer pulling my hair out over my shiny new MK3s (yes, it's still happening with the S). I tried everything and was bothering support daily. After seeing this I tried printing with no retractions and it worked, but obviously with lots of stringing. Finally bit the bullet and bought an original e3d heatbreak and took apart the hot end. Been printing for a few days now with no issues. Why is Prusa still sending out printers with a heatbreak that causes jams on even small amounts of retractions?

    • @trialhero4138
      @trialhero4138 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thanks, I was wondering if this would work on the s as well for me. Did you apply thermal paste or anything, or was it as simple as swapping out with the e3d headbreak linked in their video?

    • @is2scooby
      @is2scooby 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      S Ram I’ve never done an E3D heartbreak change before and it was easy as pie. I did put thermal paste on heatbreak.

    • @IstvanNagy86
      @IstvanNagy86 4 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      I only wish there was a step-by-step tutorial on how to do this. The hot-end was a part in the MK3S kit which came pre-assembled, so I'm a bit worried to disassemble it. The heat-break is cheap, but the whole hot-end is not. Those hot-end cables look extremely fragile :|

    • @easynow6599
      @easynow6599 4 ปีที่แล้ว +5

      @@IstvanNagy86 because of these underextrussion jams with mk3s i've done more than 10 dissassembles of hotend (not complete but put it out from extruder parts and clean the ptfe tube etc.)..this video has helped a lot..Assembling the E3D v6 hotend by
      Thomas Sanladerer

    • @MrAnim8orVideos
      @MrAnim8orVideos 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      @Fargle2nd What types of filaments were you experiencing the jams on? HTPLA? PLA?

  • @760creations
    @760creations 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    So glad to have found this video. Just ordered the heatbreak! No more jams here I come.

  • @ChiefPoints
    @ChiefPoints 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    thumbs up on the socks helping on the issue, I see substantially fewer MK3 jams occurring in the first few layers of prints. It's almost a necessity on the MK2 when you need fan support at higher temps. I've suspected that there was a problem with the MK3's heatbreak causing the excessive jams, thanks for the investigation on it, good job!

  • @peterharriman2372
    @peterharriman2372 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    This works! I used to need a large force to unload PLA from my Prusa i3S+. I was worried I was going to break something. After watching this I bought a standard heatbreak for a E3D V6, fitted it, and now it's easy to unload PLA! Worries are gone. Thank you Joel and Proto Pasta!

  • @tinkertv
    @tinkertv 5 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Nice to hear that, mate! Great video and informational as usual! I will get some now to see how it works. Maybe I'll make a video to test that filament 😎. I hope you have a great day!

  • @michaelmclean2095
    @michaelmclean2095 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Thank you for this video. I just put Proto-pasta through my MK3s and jammed it all up. I now know why. I should have her back up and printing tomorrow or Friday.

  • @jasonbyars73
    @jasonbyars73 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you for posting this. Like other I had just jammed up my Mk3 with some Proto-pasta a few days before video posted and I was really scratching my head on this one. This save me a lot of time on the forums.

  • @BJv4pro
    @BJv4pro 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Joel THANK YOU!!
    I usually never comment on videos but had to now! Changed out the heatbreak and WOW, it's changed my printing world. Two different filaments I could never get to print now print like a dream! They would always jamb during retracts. If you don't plan on running the MMU install this heatbreak.

  • @SoftmanCZ
    @SoftmanCZ 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    You are the kings guys. I had that issue for a long time and even now I cannot print the full spead due to this. And nobody could find the reason untill now.

  • @Hotwire_RCTrix
    @Hotwire_RCTrix 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Keith is on the ball. Heat conducting paste is crucial for the heat-break to heat-sink interface. Vegetable oils treat the surface of the nozzle and some of the heat-break, making it smoother. I don't understand the oil thing but it works.

  • @loneeagle8903
    @loneeagle8903 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Looking forward to meeting you at MRRF 2019. Loved the video as always

  • @TheKaptainFitzy
    @TheKaptainFitzy 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    I've searched for HOURS trying to find videos that actually would explain how to print Matte Fiber PLA. I got a roll for Christmas and haven't used it much because of the stringing and horrible adhesion I was getting! Never had to get it to 240C though! I've been considering oiling for a while, luckily I have a few extra heat breaks on hand if something goes awry, also going to try using a sock to see if that helps with my temp issues. This video was perfect, helped solve a TON of my issues with my MK2.5!!

  • @mistermeua
    @mistermeua 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    "I'm going! I'm keeping!" (c) Keith. That's the guy who "did the video". Thanks dude!

  • @BraydenWolframe
    @BraydenWolframe 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Im so excited my first 3d printer comes in today!!!

  • @is2scooby
    @is2scooby 4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    This video saved my sanity! Thanks Joel!

  • @TheMidnightSmith
    @TheMidnightSmith 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    So I wasn't crazy! I replaced my heat break with an E3D one cuz stock was bent, an no more jams. I thought it was something else like the bend or bad hotend assembly. Fantastic info! I'll also try dying out the pasta for less stringing!

  • @UKSonicBoomBoy
    @UKSonicBoomBoy 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Just think, something so simple can cause a major problem. Glad you shared Joel. Tx.

  • @MaaveMaave
    @MaaveMaave 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks. I'm probably getting a MK3 kit soon so I'll just get this part and install it off the bat.

  • @3DPIceland
    @3DPIceland 5 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Thanks for this video Joel, - I have had this same issue on my Prusa mk3 , (did a video on my makercoin sample as well), and had stringing issues and jams. Ordering the "stock" heatbreaks from E3D-online to fix my printer.

  • @makermelissa
    @makermelissa 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you! I was having this exact issue with Proto Pasta HTPLA on the MK3S.

  • @scratchinjack608
    @scratchinjack608 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    All I wish is that I had found this video before graying further than I should. That god-awful clicking sound was driving me mad. Thanks for bringing me back to earth, Joel. This video doubled my understanding of PLA, hot ends, hea breaks and other hardware and settings.

  • @d1CableGuy
    @d1CableGuy 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Oh, man this video was a lifesaver. I just started having jamming issues in my Mk3 and have been trying just about everything to get it to work. I guess I'm going to get myself a Mk2 heater block. And some matte fiber ;)

  • @Tignite91
    @Tignite91 4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    I recently got my Prusa i3 mk3s and I had the issue of jamming quite a few times.
    My printer uses the MMU2S so switching back to the old extruder design doesn't work for me but atm I only have one spool of filament.
    While I can confirm that increasing the temperature reduces the risk of a jam it also increases stringing by a huge amount!
    At your recommended 240° (and Prusament Silver PLA) I get stringing that compares to a volleyball net (which is quite an interresting phenomenon!) while a reduction in temperature directly relates to less stringing. I will have tinker with my retraction settings to further improve the print quality but so far I achieve the best results with just slightly bumping the temperature up to ~208° to increase the flow.

  • @3DPrintingwithRoberRollin
    @3DPrintingwithRoberRollin 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Great. Thanks for all your videos . Such an inspiration.

  • @StopChangingUsernamesYouTube
    @StopChangingUsernamesYouTube 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    I just wanted to say thanks. Out of an inability to leave well enough alone, I finally pulled the trigger on upgrading my MK2S (yeah, went overkill and grabbed the full MK3S upgrade kit.) I decided to save the Volcano I put in the 2S for some future frankenprinter made from the remains of the 2S and some other nonsense, and I pretty much immediately had to clear out PLA clogs on the 3S.
    I swapped in a normal heatbreak I had sitting spare after watching this, and I've successfully gone through 30 print-hours with PLA. That's not a ton of printing, but it's definitely looking more reliable so far.

    • @3DPrintingNerd
      @3DPrintingNerd  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Glad this is working well for you!

  • @FunKing3d
    @FunKing3d 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Super interesting. I had no idea there was a different heat break.

  • @rabennett79
    @rabennett79 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Awesome Video Joel, I've been working with Prusa Support for over a month now trying to get this exact issue resolved, I just sent them a link to this video and request for a Mk2 Heatbreak & PTFE Tube. Here's hoping they ship quickly and it resolves the problem!

    • @rabennett79
      @rabennett79 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Update, Prusa would not send a Mk2 heat break (a little disappointed) But I ordered a new heat break and have run at least 10 prints that were all 24+ hours with no problems now!
      Thank you again Joel for all the great information you put out to the 3d Printing Community.

  • @fbujold
    @fbujold 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    great video. This is the kind of stuff i like and expect to see. Thanks

  • @Henchman1977
    @Henchman1977 5 ปีที่แล้ว +7

    I recently started periodic filament oiling after I saw Angus do it. Definitely improved printing results on my Bowden style extruder printer. Caution, VERY LITTLE oil goes a long way. Didn't negatively effect adhesion at all.

  • @its_dan0s966
    @its_dan0s966 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thank you so much. Had the mk3s for a couple months now. Due to the filament shortage on Amazon. Im forced to settle on some off brands. This started happening and I've been tinkering with it for a long time. I've got the e3d heat break and sock on order. The Mrs. Is selling the mask ear savers to contribute to the cause after she saw that people were price gouging on etsy. People had to lower their prices after she became best seller. We can get the prusa up and running now.

    • @IstvanNagy86
      @IstvanNagy86 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Just curious, which brands didn't cause you this issue? The only one I tried so far is the Plasty Mladeč gray PLA came with the printer which just always clogs around 2 hours, no matter what I do. I would like to try something else.

  • @alloycrow917
    @alloycrow917 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    You, my friend, have a good video editor.

  • @gaWalt
    @gaWalt 5 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Hello Joel! Fascinating solution to past printer problems with the Prusa i3 mk3 printer.
    I was considering purchasing an ungraded i3 mk3S. I had some questions for Prusa and so I sent
    them an email on their website. I didn't get a response. I sent 2 more emails and never got any
    response to those emails!!!
    I'm disappointed, in Prusa, and concerned that if I were to purchase a printer from them that I wouldn't receive any support , from them, especially if I encountered some initial problems with the equipment.
    Their website states; "WANT TO ASK US SOMETHING? YOU CAN ASK ANYTHING!"
    Well, I asked some "ANYTHING" questions but they never answered. So, I guess it's true that you can ask them "anything" but they didn't state on their website that they would follow up with an answer!!!!
    So, unless you can convince me that it's worth investing in one of their printers and that I'll get support
    then I'm going to look at other companies and their printers that will support me when I have a problem or general questions.
    Thanks Joel for your youtube videos and valuable information. I'll continue watching you regardless of
    which manufacturer you are discussing at the time.
    Gary

    • @devonhedges8660
      @devonhedges8660 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      eGliderman you can use the 24/7 customer service chat on their website for help i always find them very responsive. Also some of the prusa guys are on twitter so you can ask them on there

    • @gaWalt
      @gaWalt 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thanks for your response! It's really strange that I sent 3 emails and didn't get any responses from them. I was really set on getting their new i3 mk3S upgraded printer
      until that happened. I'll try the the customer service chat.
      So, I assume you have a Prusa i3 mk3? If so, how do you like it? Have you tried to print using ABS filament and if so what kind of results did you get?
      Tks,
      Gary

    • @devonhedges8660
      @devonhedges8660 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      eGliderman no problem! And normally i only end up emailing if you have a problem that takes a while to solve and then you have to end up waiting a couple days between responses which isnt the best but it will probably get better in time.
      To answer your question i do have a mk3 and recently received the mk3s upgrade that i havent put on yet and its honestly the best printer ive used, i rely heavily on the filament runout when im printing props. So far i have only printed PLA but a lot of others have had amazing success with ABS

  • @GamesJames
    @GamesJames 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    OMG THANK YOU! I was going crazy!

  • @draeath
    @draeath 5 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Ah, good choice on oil. Avocado oil has a very high smoke point - 271°C. Well below the temperature being used for this filament.
    You can get it in a bottled form, as well.

  • @timdevries39
    @timdevries39 5 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Ok so what if I have the mmu2? And I do have the mk3s kit on the way but I think that just adds a through connect fitting on the hot end extruder and a new sensor. The hot end itself will stay the same.

  • @desiv1170
    @desiv1170 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I've used a sponge in a 3D printed clip with just a few drops of vegetable every once in a while (not often) and I've been really lucky with my MPSM. So I keep doing that. I wouldn't be surprised if it turns out to be a myth, but it's part of my routine and it's been working. So I'm keeping it up. ;-) Great vid!

  • @richardboyce4921
    @richardboyce4921 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Greta video Joel, very informative and interesting to see such a small difference in the heat break design can have such a large impact on the output. It's also a good example of why the originals are the better option, i.e a std genuine E3D hotend works but a simple heat break change doesn't. the original item is more expensive because of the attention to detail of the original design. Keep them coming mate, love your work.

  • @wolfwood3081
    @wolfwood3081 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Does this apply to the MK3S as well? I am new to 3d printing and have a MK3S kit on the way, so I was just curious if I should look for a hot end that that is 2mm bore the whole way through to start with and if i get the MMU later swap back to the 2 - 2.2 hot end then?

  • @orcofnbu
    @orcofnbu 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    nice tip. prusa must fix this problem for one filament users.

  • @m3chanist
    @m3chanist 5 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Well well, good effort from Proto Pasta getting out ahead of the problem and finding the cause.

    • @varukasalt
      @varukasalt 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Except they didn't. They attempted to blame the printer when it only has issues with their filament.

  • @manousosvasilakis753
    @manousosvasilakis753 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    So if I have an MMU2 will the 2mm straight bore still be a reliable option or should I stick with the 2.2 tapered? I've never tried protopasta and the only filament I ever had a problem jamming was Polyalchemy Elixer. That stuff is beautiful but I just couldn't get a decent print to complete with it.

  • @steffenwagner6212
    @steffenwagner6212 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thank you for this insight Joel and proto-pasta. I've got the mk3s parts ordered and will definitely add the heatbreak replacement in the mix.
    Is there a specific reason your Z axis trapezoidal nuts are mounted upside down?

    • @aa7jc
      @aa7jc 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Ooops? Good eye! I went back in the vid and sure enough... upside down..

  • @qg786
    @qg786 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    This is my exact issue! I've got a new break that has no lip and is mirror smooth. Mine is made out of titanium. You can also use heat sink compound on the break and heat sink for better thermal transfer on your bowden.

    • @qg786
      @qg786 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Never mind about the heat sink compound.

  • @foxabilo
    @foxabilo 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Now that is interesting stuff, thanks for that. The layer lines just vanish, I can make good use of that fact with organic looking models, I bet a dragon in a deep colour would look great!

  • @fusionmakeseverything7890
    @fusionmakeseverything7890 5 ปีที่แล้ว +12

    I have to "You've been Gnomed"

  • @crussty3d
    @crussty3d 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Wow! I don't think I've EVER seen Keith move that fast! He needs full time TIMELAPSE MODE!!!

    • @Tinkerz
      @Tinkerz 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I wish I had full time TIMELAPSE MODE. Imagine all the printers I could service.

  • @NathanMartinHR
    @NathanMartinHR 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    OMG guys, thank you... JGAurora/JGMaker A3S owner here going insane trying to figure out why all of my prints jam at exactly the same place...

  • @thewebexpert3311
    @thewebexpert3311 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Joel, I very VERY highly recommend the I3MK3S upgrade. The difference is phenomenal. The machine is quieter, faster, and prints better. The filament sensor is WAY better. The PINDA sensor has been replaced, and the entire extruder body has been redesigned to make things work better. Yeah, I have my own bias - because I love my Prusa and the AWESOME customer service I've received. Of course, a purpose-built I3MK3S would be even better yet - there's more improvements on that even still.

    • @varukasalt
      @varukasalt 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I have two. Everything you said is correct except the PINDA is exactly the same.

    • @thewebexpert3311
      @thewebexpert3311 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@varukasalt my PINDA looks different than the old one

    • @SSBeastman77
      @SSBeastman77 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Did you find that you had fewer filament jams as a result of the MK3S upgrade?

    • @thewebexpert3311
      @thewebexpert3311 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@SSBeastman77 quite a bit fewer. However: you really, REALLY need to get a silicone sock for the hotend, to prevent any filament from gathering on the nozzle.

  • @juckendesAuge
    @juckendesAuge 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hello,
    is the issue fixed in the MK3s+ Prusa model?
    Thank you very much for the Update.

  • @ENCOUNTERZERO7
    @ENCOUNTERZERO7 5 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    I've been using an oiler for a long time now and I found that after much trial and error that what worked best for me on my cr-10 was liquid wrench white lithium grease with cerflon reinforced ptfe. I haven't had a failed print or jam in a long time and it doesn't mess with adhesion or the melt zone either. I have sprayed it straight into an E3dv6 hotend and it coats the inside of it and it doesn't cake up or burn like other oils have.

    • @ZeeLobby
      @ZeeLobby 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Would love some more info on this. So do you still use an oiler? or just take everything apart and spray it in occasionally?

  • @rokkr
    @rokkr 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Is it possible to run some test to achieve that beautiful print with the original hot end? I am thinking on buying a Prusa Mk3 but I want to keep the original hardware first, because I know nothing yet the hardware I will handle, and second because I may use the multimaterial upgrade.
    Excellent video and really informative btw.

  • @charlievanabbema82
    @charlievanabbema82 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    If you add the new heat break is is still possible to do multi material?

  • @DustyTheKitty
    @DustyTheKitty 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    240 'c you say? I'll give it a shot! I've only been printing with my machine (Prusa i3 mk3) for a few weeks and all of a sudden half way through my project I keep having the darn thing stop extruding filament and just click-click-click-click, It's been breaking my heart for the past 4 days and I'm an absolute newbie at this (I only learned how to cold pull today) and i think I've gone though half a reel of PLA in failed prints (thankfully i did buy a second reel when i first started but still, what a waste...) but it's been a learning experience if nothing else.
    Liked and Subbed, I feel i can learn a lot here :)

  • @Moving2U
    @Moving2U 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    LOL So easy to change the heat break you brought a pro-nerd in to do it.

  • @StasWright
    @StasWright 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    You need more Brawndo! Love the Proto-pasta Tom’s orange.

  • @reidt9155
    @reidt9155 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    For single filament prints, and while keeping retractions, would reducing/maintaining retraction distance and increasing retraction speed instead be a potential fix? This way the end of the filament wouldn't enter the 2.2mm zone.

  • @aldosv73
    @aldosv73 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Lol pretty awesome, vids as always man I can't say just how much 8ve3learned from you, thank you, I am now ready for a cr10 to move on to bigger prints. O before I forget, how about a laugh reel all those messups we don't see.

  • @thisplayer01
    @thisplayer01 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi Joel, this is valuable insight, thanks! Q: MK3S - does it have the heat-break 2.2 to 2.0 throat as well?

  • @Sensaatioko86
    @Sensaatioko86 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    OMG, i just ordered MK3S do i need to buy that heatbrake, and put it on straight away? And do i need that blue condom also?

  • @MrAnim8orVideos
    @MrAnim8orVideos 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Does this new heatbreak solution also require a different PTFE tube than the one that came with the MK3? Do I need to order the MK2 PTFE tube from Prusa, or is there another supplier (Amazon or something) that would work? I'd rather not cut my own since they have to be nearly perfect.

  • @keereelewah4524
    @keereelewah4524 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    One of the things I saw -- though god knows I don't remember where -- is that one of the big benefits of the thermal sock is actually just adding more thermal mass to the hotend. More thermal mass keeps the temperature more stable. It's also important if you do change a component of the hotend -- especially adding or removing mass -- to retune your PID control loops. The temperature control will be much more stable if you do. Check with your firmware on how to do that.

  • @SSBeastman77
    @SSBeastman77 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hello and thank you for the video. I purchased the heat break linked to this video, and I replaced my heat break in my original i3 MK3. I was hopeful, but I started getting the same frequent filament jobs and the very similar looking "bulb" at the end of the filament when removed. However, it looks more symmetrical, which I could attribute to the inner nozzle cone. I am using Matterhackers black PETG at 240 C using the Prusa edition of Slic3r's generic PET settings, 0.2 layer height. If it's not the heat break, seeing as I've replaced it, what might be my next troubleshooting steps?

  • @licensetodrive9930
    @licensetodrive9930 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    The only jams I've had with my Mk3 have been when printing TPU, occasionally I discover it stopped printing halfway through and there's a big loop of filament sticking out the side of the head :(
    I did find printing TPU at 240c pretty much eliminated that issue, and the prints look nice & glossy. Thank you very much for this video explaining the internals of the i3 Mk3 heat break.

    • @moralesmike
      @moralesmike 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      So would changing the break help with TPU? I can't seem to get TPU printing right.

    • @licensetodrive9930
      @licensetodrive9930 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      ​@@moralesmike What issues are you having with printing TPU?
      The best 'upgrade' I did to get better TPU prints was to buy a cheap temperature controlled food dehydrator, the circular type like the ones PrintDry use, take out the trays and dry my TPU & PETG filaments with it, then store them in an airtight tub with silica gel beads to keep them dry.
      TPU & PETG are hygroscopic, they soak up moisture from the atmosphere which turns into steam in the nozzle, creating tiny bubbles in the final print, you can hear popping sounds when printing 'wet' TPU.
      I also print TPU & PETG whilst they reels are still in the dryer, feeding the filament out with a bowden tube, because I've noticed TPU prints can get worse even after a couple of hours of the filament being out in the open.

  • @gibbermagash5559
    @gibbermagash5559 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Does having your go pro taped to the build plate affect the calibration?

  • @Gabosamu
    @Gabosamu 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    I love your Churros T-Shirt!!!

  • @nickanderson8305
    @nickanderson8305 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    For your timelapse printing videos, is your GoPro just plugged in to keep the camera from dying or do you record straight to your computer

  • @GiulianoMazzina
    @GiulianoMazzina 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    What was the 'schmoo' Keith used to seal the heat break in? It looked like some kind of thermal compound.

    • @philippthiele4478
      @philippthiele4478 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Yes it is, but you shouldn't use it. It degenerates really fast at the printing temperatures and doesn't help anymore..

    • @zanpekosak2383
      @zanpekosak2383 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      @@philippthiele4478 If its decent stuff and you apply it on the hotend only its fine. Some Thermal Grizzly Kryonaout or something similar.

    • @zanpekosak2383
      @zanpekosak2383 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      I mean COLDend. Sorry for that

    • @Tinkerz
      @Tinkerz 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      It's for the cold side only as I understand it.

  • @bimautomo
    @bimautomo 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    sorry joel, silly question, i have i3 mk3s+ and have some clicking extruder with no jam or under-extrusion, just clicking in random time, is that caused by the heatbreak or hotend that you mention ? in mk3s+ still have the difrent model than the original 0.2 e3d model ?

  • @jamesfoley4254
    @jamesfoley4254 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I had many clogging problems with the Proto-Pasta HTPLA. I was told by Keith at Proto-Pasta that I had to upgrade to the MK3 R3 parts. That didn't fix everything. What did fix things so I could print was using a profile they published. I think it uses the 240C temperature setting and a few other tweaks. Another weirdness is I NEVER had problems with High Five Blue and it was only with the other filaments like Tangerine Orange Metallic. I was told that the High Five Blue had additives that the other colors did not. I wondered why those additives were not in the other HTPLA colors. Anyway, with the new profiles I can print and High Five Blue is still an awesome color.

    • @Tinkerz
      @Tinkerz 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      James, and yes, as our understanding of the issue evolves so does the solution. We've spent a great deal of time on it and yes the R3 parts do help with the cooling which contributes to the heat creep but that's not the whole story as we've found out. And now there's even an R4 extruder assembly. Sorry we couldn't get you fixed up 100% back then. As our understanding of the issues evolve we try to share the information which is why we asked Joel if we could do this video with him. Thank you Joel for sharing your audience.

    • @jamesfoley4254
      @jamesfoley4254 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      No worries. Thanks for the awesome product support! I have been able to print everything that I have purchased from Proto Pasta now and love the unique filament. @@Tinkerz

    • @ProtopastaMakers
      @ProtopastaMakers 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Always doing our best but we will always be better in the future. That's just life & learning :-)

  • @Robothut
    @Robothut 5 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    I always thought that using a oiler on filament was crazy talk, until I tried on my MK3 and Wow. No more jams. I have never had a print fall apart do to the oiling as it is such a small amount. I used a paper towel and a clothespin to hold it around the filament. The clothespins have that built in hole so it can not pinch the filament to much ! Joel if interested I just posted a video on using a inductive sensor for the filament on the new MK3-S upgrade. Check it out. works great and so much faster than 10 weeks lead time for the upgrade parts from Prusa.

    • @lio1234234
      @lio1234234 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Sounds great and all, but it was the other parts such as cooling and the filament path that were majorly improved. They have the upgrades open source so we can print the upgrades to make it from a Mk3 to a Mk3s all by ourselves!

    • @Robothut
      @Robothut 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Yep, already did the upgrade. My MK3 is a MK3-S now.

    • @lio1234234
      @lio1234234 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@Robothut oh yeah, sorry I hadn't seen your entire comment. Oops. Didn't the upgrade to s fix it enough for you?

    • @Robothut
      @Robothut 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      No the real problem is what they say in the video above. there is a change in the inside filament guide hole in the hot end that allows the PLA to expand and form a jam if you have a detailed part that has retractions. Prusa has changed the standard retraction setting from 2mm to 0.8mm to try and stop the jamming but this also leads to stringing. The only real cure is to replace the heat break tube with the one from the MK2 hot end. I never had a jam with the MK2 prusa but have lots with the MK3 and stringing. I still love this printer. It is a work horse and a go too printer for sure.

    • @lio1234234
      @lio1234234 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@Robothut Yes, sorry. They said they released a new 3d printed hot end since the release of the mk3s, where there is a tighter filament path so it cant build up or squiggle out if using flexible. It might be the mmu2 hot end change that I'm on about because I have that. But it fixed everything for me. :)

  • @ryano.8768
    @ryano.8768 5 ปีที่แล้ว +18

    I think that the maker coin that failed was modern art

  • @HenrikJKoch-vw4ee
    @HenrikJKoch-vw4ee 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Which camera are you using. The one attached to the bed

  • @wboyle0
    @wboyle0 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    wonder if the cooling air direction makes a difference. Stringing seems to be on 1 side of model, just left side of model and left side of right leg. also just watched someone say increasing non printing movement speed to max reduces stringing. just a thought. Great video as usual!

  • @Ichino
    @Ichino 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    CHURROS! Best T-shirt EVER!!!

  • @MaxGoddur
    @MaxGoddur 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Looking to pick up some spare screws for my Prusa i3 MK3, Checked in the assembly booklet and found M3 x 10 and some other assorted lengths but can't find the pitch for these screws. Once I find the pitch can order some from my local hardware store.

  • @Danimal-3D
    @Danimal-3D 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Super interesting video!! I have a mk3 and just had my PETG print fail due to inability to feed/ extruded jam. I’m thinking this is now related to the bore heartbreak.

  • @punkisdread
    @punkisdread 5 ปีที่แล้ว +12

    If I use oil anywhere on my printer I use airtool oil. It won't turn rancid like plant based oils. And it won't plasticize like vegetable oil.

    • @Dave_the_Dave
      @Dave_the_Dave 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      You want the oil to polymerize in the hot end, but the key is using a miniscule amount. A thin layer of polymerized vegetable oil in a hot end is not going to go rancid any more than it would on a cast iron skillet.

  • @videoscrapheap
    @videoscrapheap 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    I just ordered a Prusa MK3 kit primarily based on Joel's ongoing praise of the platform. I'll wait to see if the filament I normally use has any issues before ordering and swapping out the part. If this is a potential issue it may make sense for Prusa to ship the MK3 with the normal V6 tube then include the modified tube with the multi material kit.

    • @varukasalt
      @varukasalt 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      You won't unless you use protopastas shitty filament

  • @michelrail
    @michelrail 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Can anyone tell me what is the white substance Keith used when he screwed in the throat tube into the heatbreak and what is it used for?

  • @christianwiller3814
    @christianwiller3814 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    I updated my mk2 to mk2.5 and still had jamming with the mk2 stock heatbreak. I had to increase the Nozzle temperature by about 15°C and add a printed clip to the pushfit at the heatbreak. Thats seemed to solve it. Im also using a NozzleX of E3D. That might be another reason for the higher temperature needed.

  • @thesleepingtsi6782
    @thesleepingtsi6782 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    I Love this guy!

  • @thierrypache3659
    @thierrypache3659 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Good to know that hotend was different in MK3. Perhaps also interesting to make a critic on the Noctua extruder fan. It is quiet but not very efficient. It can also explain some situations, isn't it?

  • @Sembazuru
    @Sembazuru 4 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I know this is an old video but... When working on a MK3: As long as the printer is powered on the hotend cooling fan automatically runs if the extruder is about 40°C or warmer. So when Alex was getting ready to put the sock on I could see the Noctua fan not spinning. As long as the printer was powered on, that is an indication that the hot end is a safe temperature to touch.

  • @arminth
    @arminth 5 ปีที่แล้ว +8

    Would be interesting to see, how the MMU behaves now with the straight thru heatbreak. Maybe, that lip wasn't necessary in the first place!

    • @blairpoll287
      @blairpoll287 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      It's probably better won't have giant tips causing jams when reloading it. 😂😂😂

    • @testpipedh22a
      @testpipedh22a 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      I actually had to replace my heatbreak with the mk3 version with the step in order to get my mk2.5s mmu2s to function reliably. what I don't understand is that I have been getting zero jamming with the new heat break, which suggests to me that the problem isn't the heat break because I'm using perfectly normal retraction and haven't had a jam yet on the new heat break. Something tells me this has more to do with simply reassembling the hot end

  • @charlestetlow4668
    @charlestetlow4668 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Used Thingiverse thing:2920611 oiler with olive oil with great success. Got lazy later and just started printing all PLA at 220 or above.
    I actually had to take the oiler off when I built the Lack enclosure, but with the heater sock and the enclosure, 220-225 is good for cheap PLAs. Never been able to get rid of the stringing though. I'll have to try the heat break change out. Thanks for sharing.

  • @IraQNid
    @IraQNid 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Is there a containment solution that keeps the filament dry while it is in use?

  • @themadjedi2488
    @themadjedi2488 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    I'm very happy with my Prusa i3Mk3s but not with the jams over the last year now I know why, already contacted Prusa for a price on the original E3d Heatbreak can't wait to see if this works

  • @AZwupatki
    @AZwupatki 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Olive oil just wipe on the first few inches, I do it when ever I go thru a roll or anytime I use wood filament.

  • @Dragonballgrz
    @Dragonballgrz 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Wich CAD Programm do you use?

  • @ramimorsky1317
    @ramimorsky1317 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Would changing the heatbreak bring issues with normal unloading? If I understood correctly the modification to the heatbreak is to help unloading with the MMU.

    • @ProtopastaMakers
      @ProtopastaMakers 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      It's possible. Someone should verify if it works with mmu. We did the replacement knowing we weren't planning to use mmu.

    • @stevejordan1968
      @stevejordan1968 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      I have a standard e3d heatbreak on my mmu2s/mk3s. Mainly because this is the first time I heard Prusa was using a custom part. So far on PLA and PETG I’m having no issues unloading but I have not tried a multi-material print yet. Had Proto-pasta discussed this with Prusa?