When I was building homes wrapping was a step we never missed. When we built my mom's house 30 years ago we used a combination of wrapping and taping every sq in of the home, 2×6 exterior walls, batt, spray and ridgid board. The best windows available at that time, a truck load of caulking, silent floor system, etc. It was built to a super insulated home spec. Which created some other issues to address. Air quality and moisture being the two biggest. I swear you can heat it with a candle and cool it with a cup of ice. Air exchanger with the air to air system, not sure how all of that worked but we had to bring in fresh air and vent moisture. It's 30 yo and still tight as a drum. When the HVAC system went out a few years ago it was a eye opener at the cost to replace and upgrade. Thanks for another great video brother.
@@cerealkilla4eva As I mentioned, the HVAC system used a air exchange filtering system using outside air. Basically it exchanges stale indoor with fresh outside air. I know it has a Dehumidifier built into the system and I could be wrong but I'm thinking it has the ability to also add humidity for winter time dry air.
Thank you SO MUCH for not only making this info available, but easy to understand. I'm disabled & I don't have a ton of money or a very big circle, so knowing how to do stuff on my own is A HUGE DEAL. Thank you for making this info accessible. 🥺🙏💖
Agreed. I spend my days lately watching your videos…I love them. And it reminds me of being a little girl and just sitting and watching my Dad doing this kind of stuff to our houses. Good times. Although, I am your age Jeff.
Starting on year 2 of total exterior renovation. Didn’t get the siding on last year so I have spent the whole winter with Tyvek on my house. Use cap nails if you are in a windy area! Still left to finish: replace half the windows, finish second half of roof, soffit, fascia, add foam insulation, move electrical meter, cap windows and doors, then siding … it’s a lot of work, but hoping I can finish by the fall of 2023.
When we had our home resided two years ago we had them use the Tyvek wrinkle wrap. It creates drainage channels behind the siding. We resided with James Hardie plank, so we didn’t want the potential for the boards to hold any water behind them. The contractor used a weaved nylon wrap as standard that is neither air nor waterproof. So it was worth it to me to pay the premium for the upgraded product.
I appreciate all your effort! I don't see a whole lot of info that help challenges of fixing the exterior old an old brick house. Window sills, morter repair, redirecting water to prevent bricks from being continuously saturated.
I have a house built in 1956 and I really need all that info. It's my first home and I'm learning everything the hard way. I'd appreciate a video that touches on all the things you listed.
@@YellowBunchofBananas Are you sure I neeed to be a Mason? lol. I'd love to learn a few tricks but I DIY'd pointing some brick and did a fine job. One could also say I need to be a plumber, Electrician, Carpenter. But can the working man actually afford these skilled trades? I'm handy enough that I can follow instructions and achieve results.
@@jasonfitzgerald6334 Not saying you can't DIY it; my point was more that what you were asking about was masonry work and not carpentry like in most of Jeff's exterior videos. If you want to take it on, depending on the age of the house, I would do some research before getting started to make sure I chose the right materials etc.. The hard part with old brick houses is that some of the home centre mortar etc. isn't always the right stuff to use since mortar mixes have changed over the years to suit things like changes in brick.
I ONCE GAVE some ultralight hikers a ride to the start of a 250km hike, and as a gift, they gave me a sheet of Tyvek and told me it makes a great groundsheet under your tent, to keep it dry. They were right - plus it's durable as hell and light as anything.
ZIP sheathing provides the same protection as OSB+Tyvek. One step, instead of multiple product costs, steps+labor costs. Also, easier to tape off and eliminate tiny holes in the ZIP, as opposed to Tyvek.
Zip sheathing is made of osb . Osb is vapor retarded material. Who would want to put it on outside of a wall in a cold climate? Not Canadians that for sure
Straight from Jeff Epsteins Island ! Bill Gates admits (after making 550000000 dollars) that mRNA vaccines are crap lol. He states that they can fix all the problems with the vaccines by making it INTO a mouth wash XD. I am sure he will make another 500 mil on human stupidity until he calls the spray crap and moved onto a majic lazer beam that coats the earth WITH THE CURE! All from the mouth of the guy who basically funded and hyped the mRNA transfections. I am sure wingnut Pierre Poilievre and trudeau are more than willing to tow the line of "just a college dropout' hehehe
Much more expensive though in almost every situation because the labor to put on tyvek isn’t a huge amount of time for a skilled group. But it’s also better as long as the people know how to hang it, tape the seams, and seal the fastener penetrations for the bottom 3 ft or so
ZIP is not the answer for everything. It's osb for one, not as permeable as most house wrap, and there isn't a positive overlap so you are completely relying on the tape and those installing it...
Your absolutely right about the house wrap. I'm in Brampton, there's a bunch of new subdivisions always being built here. I'm used to seeing white house wrap on them. These days they have tar paper covering the osb.
Years ago, I replaced T11 siding. Nothing was under it. I used the heavy tar/felt paper left over from roof. Walls were much warmer in winter/cooler in summer. House had no moisture issues.
I thought I was going to have to do finish work on walls. I watched your videos very carefully - I took notes. I even bought the tools. But I was stuck doing stud framing an insulation on an attic or whatever you want to call that 32" space between the top roof and the ceiling lo of a top unit on a 4rth floor. I did no nagg or said anything. When I was done I sheetrock the whole place Sadly to say though, I never got to use my hawk, tapping knives, or anything else I brought. They're still there for if some new thing project arises. You are a swell instructor. Bless your heart
DIY tip: If you have some left over Tyvek, save it for the next time you go camping. It makes a fantastic ground cover below your tent. Ditto if you are backpacking and it's very light to carry.
Almost 20 years ago when I built on to this house I used 30 pound roofing felt and 6 mil plastic. Felt over the plywood then plastic over that. Wish I'd know about Tyvek back then. It's sealed up but I have mold that forms on the outside vinyl. I think that's why. Inside it's fine. I have plenty of air flow with the HVAC unit and don't have an issue indoors. But, that vinyl siding molds constantly now. At least no water will penetrate into the plywood and walls. Just no air goes back out now.
crazy 😎. We just visited the US and were highly curious, why you wrap your houses - outside!!! It is the complete opposite philosophy of what we do around here 😅. For the common understanding, people say that the "breathable" vapor barrier must be as close to the inside as possible to avoid humidity to reach the dew point. High diffusion resistance at the inner side, low resistance at the outer side. As you do it, it is absolutely quick and cheap. For sure, the most important thing is to avoid convection. To do it from the inside is the better way according to physics but it is a massive effort and extremely sensitive to damage. They put air pressure into the building and measure the loss over time. If it is too much, some people have a lot of work to make it air tight afterwards. Find the whole in the wall... . I am afraid, many of the new houses will not last long and have extremely expensive repair costs. The first plumber or electrician to change something will destroy the air barrier and if he doesn`t make it air tight again - what happens - you have a house that is damaged in the construction after plenty years. We can heat a new house in Germany for 300-600€ per year. But it costs at least twice of what you pay in the US. Although Energy is so much more expensive here, the high costs for super duper insulation will hardly ever pay off. But that is due to green politics, so only upper class people can afford a new house meanwhile.
Is there any benefit to peel and stick house wrap? Is a vapor barrier like Matt Risinger uses, a bad idea for older houses? (1950s house with asbestos tile)
That depends upon your climate. In the south you can have a vapor closed system on the exterior of the house. In the north you cannot. The vapor closed system goes on the “warm side”. To keep any condensation in an area where it can dry to the warm area. I.E. I live in Minnesota, we use a vapor barrier on the inside since over 50% of the year we heat the house. Any condensation would hit right behind the drywall and can dry “in” in the south a primary cooling zone that condensation potential is kept to the other side of a wall so it needs to dry to the outside. The main “benefit” is no need to tape the overlapping joints of the wrap as the adhesive does that job. The downside, cost!
Do you normally install it horizontally or vertically? How much does it effect the integrity of you cut smaller sheets as opposed to installing in the longest strips that you can? I had to do a small job covering a storage area under a second story deck that the previous owner didn’t finish. I did it horizontally starting from the bottom and wrapped three sides in one piece. I wasn’t sure how bad cutting it would be and it was relatively small job so I dealt with it but would have been a lot easier to do in in smaller pieces especially when the breeze kicked up.
Its typically done horizontally, starting from the bottom - as you did - so that it overlaps. Always try and keep the pieces as complete as possible. Less seams.
Jeff, I’m looking at redoing my siding this summer. 1970’s construction in the Appalachians. I know I need a house wrap, I was previously set on Zip-R, but that’s too cost prohibitive to redo all my sheathing as well. Now I’m curious about doing a 1” exterior foam board. I want a continuous envelope on my walls due to 2x4 framing and our frequency to drop in the 10-20*F territory in the winter. Any recommendations on exterior insulation + house wrap assemblies? Oh, and swapping out those wood framed double hung sliders while I’m at it, your tips combining that with siding is saving me more than a few thousand bucks
@@UnexpectedTokens Right?? I saw Jeff's brick background and got all excited. But instead, I've gotta figure out why rainwater comes in when the wind blows, despite not seeing any obvious problems with the brick or flashing.
I may need to redo house wrap and siding without being able to afford to replace windows. If I do that, will there be a way to later replace windows without damaging the relatively newer siding and house wrap, and will the house wrap then maintain its effectiveness?
ohhh this is gold... Our house was built in the 1970's so I am pretty much 100% certain we do not have such a thing... they probably did not even use any type of wrap in those days... just wood/drywall... The problem we have is our home is all cedar planks, so it would be a ton of work to remove each board and then put them back in the exact same way they were aligned because no two pieces are alike.
Help. I'm purchasing a TuffShed and finishing it out as a tiny cottage in Phoenix, AZ. I asked the rep why he marked that I would not be insulating it. He said so I will receive the radiant barrier which will help keep the shed cooler. Otherwise, I'd only get house wrap. What are your thoughts? 🤷🏽
@HOMERENO.... what would be any major different between aluminum siding v.s vinyl siding? I have an older house with aluminum siding.. and was planning on redoing the siding.. didn't know if I should keep with the aluminum siding style... or switch it to vinyl which is cheaper obviously.. but yeah.. I wanted to add the tyvek house wrap... and wasn't sure if I should switch the siding material? I appreciate any thoughts.. pro's and cons... thank you sir
So, I live in Las Vegas. It’s definitely windy here, no problems with that except windows rattling. But my problem is heat. The house, especially upstairs is miserable! I know that I need to get my attic insulated, and ducts sealed, biz it’s built in 1974, but would that work for heat too? The tyvek. I was told to use it in a bedroom with a vaulted ceiling to keep the heat down..that room is miserable!!
R-value is the measure of a materials thermal resistance. Insulations, both rigid and batt have known R-values, OSB even has a small amount, but Air-Barrier’s have zero. You are correct when you say air barriers can help reduce heat loss, but they accomplish this by spanning and covering gaps in the framing and sheathing. These holes would be a source of heated air leaving your building, drafts if you will. To be clear, Tyvek does not ´add R-value ‘
@James Karrie Which is exactly what I said. A hole is leaking air, the Tyvek blocks the hole, therefore you lose no heat due to leakage. We do not measure this loss of heat in "R-values"
What about if the Tyvek is ripped and stapled back together? The new $650k house up the hill sat for months last winter without siding and the tyvek got ripped to shreds by the wind. They didn't rewrap it, just stapled the flaps down.
We need to remove our siding and put OSB on the exterior. Right now it's some kind of drywall material and it's wet and crumbling. We discovered this during interior renovations last year. I'm afraid of what that is going to cost.
Jeff has got a few episodes of siding in his lists. It doesn't appear to be that difficult, its the trim work that I dread. I am looking at a bunch of projects for my home too, that's one of them.
live in Arkansas (hot/humid) going to build, going to use 2" dense board foam insulation on exterior of every wall and roof; still need "wrap"? if so, what brand?
Jeff, I have a block home in Florida. We have single pane windows which we will be replacing. We seem to get a lot of moisture coming up through the slab. Could this be used under the carpet padding to prevent water coming up through the slab?
My house is 100 years old - you can see the wind blow the curtains inside. I've been thinking of stripping the shingles and then using the zip system over the random board sheathing that's under the shingles (i'm not sure that tyvek would be enough with all the gaps). or would it be better to just put up normal osb and then wrap it?
My house was built in the late 60s/early 70s. We did some renovation and found that the builder used drywall. Found a lot of rotted and broken pieces. There’s no way to wrap the house without removing all the brick and starting over.
House wrap over osb is bare minimum. Zip with the barrier integrated would be the next level. Foam board over osb would be the better than zip but needs more time to install. All need taping at all seams for proper seal.
Would lack of a house wrap cause leaks resulting to drywall water damage and stains in first floor ceiling of a multi-story house? Would it be the reason for drywall damage around the inside window opening?
I have a 100+ year house with great original siding. I’ve started pulling the plaster out and will be adding more insulation to what was retro fitted in the 90s. What can be done for air barrier from the inside? I’ll be installing a vapor barrier prior to drywall
@James Karrie thanks! I was almost thinking of cutting the house wrap up and taping it into each stud, just to slow any air movement. But that’s a lot of tape haha
@James Karrie think your onto something haha. I’ve watched a few of your home remodel and that’s why I’m asking you!!! Thanks for all your advice. I Had not thought of painting the stud bays. Thanks!
Depends on which part of the country you live in... I started seeing it in the south in the mid-ninties in my area. The latest system they are using is the green osb-membrane system : zip. They install the panels, then tape all the joints, and openings to work like tyvek and obs.
Those u-tube signs that you display, I only recently found out by accident what they mean, so I'm sure most viewers don't know. I'll go now and create more accounts so you can earn the third one quicker for that empty shelf you have prepared.
I’m a big fan of Jeff’s work and know how much he has worked to not rely on be sponsored by products to be unbiased. Even with all that, it’s hard to shake the feeling that this reminds me of a product sponsorship. I think they were trying to make something short and sweet for the algorithm and better reach an audience 🤷♂️
@@KN-jw7ts I don't have a problem with creators being sponsored to support themselves/family. If they do it and don't disclose it, that's when it feels off. I'm not saying that is what Jeff is doing. I'm just explaining my concern from how this can be perceived.
@@YellowBunchofBananas that's what I'm thinking too. Maybe the other thing that the me off is that it feels abnormal (not the right season for working on house wrap, not related to the current basement project). It feels out of place like some creators do for a random sponsorship. I don't think Jeff is doing this to be clear
Hi Jeff, "house wrap" is cheap, but the Perfect wrap is Not Typar or Tyvek, because as you have shown, it Holds water. All the latest building science, not opinion, has well shown, a water vapor permeable membrane is the correct product. These are designed to let water vapor from the inside of your house to pass through to the exterior, but not let water from the exterior get in. Yes, they are a One way vapor directional barrier, and definitely more expensive, but they will not allow moisture to condensate in your walls. Building science has also shown, 6mil poly is another terrible product, because it also does not allow your house to breathe. With new codes pushing for more insulation, and wanting to have houses tighter and tighter, the mold and complaints of bad internal air is Not because the houses are too tight, it is because the air is trapped. The proper membranes allow it to breathe in a correct and controlled manor. If you are going to use typar or tyvek, then, my "opinion" would be to overlap joints by more than 4", maybe 12", and not tape the overlap but staple. This "might allow moisture or vapor that is inside the walls to exit, but greatly reduce air flow. Again, the last part about the overlapping joints is my "opinion, but the other is the recent and current science. Regards,
I have a question I have what looks to be like a thick sheet rock with black paper. Somebody told me you can’t wrap that. What should I use on that? Thanks.
I am not sure what that material is, but you might be better to remove it completely as part of the residing project. Then use exterior osb/plywood on the framing, tyvek, then side the house. But Jeff has a membership that for a few dollars a month, he will help you answer all your construction challenges.
The demonstration didn't show me how the tyvek is all that different from just plastic sheeting which is just as waterproof. How about showing how vapors can pass through?
Sure, but you will need to put up something that the stucco can stick to and support its weight. Metal lath is the most common. In many area’s you see stucco homes built with EPS foam used as the WRB with the lath on top of that and then the stucco. Edit: I believe that asphalt impregnated paper (kind of like what you see on your roof) is the most common WRB with stucco because it seals around all the lath penetrations better when it gets damp.
It needs to be behind the stucco. I believe when they stucco they build a gap between it and the actual exterior sheet good, so water (vapor) can escape, and not rot the obs/plywood that they attach the lath too.
@@denisegaylord382 The product I've been looking at is open cell but with a coating on both sides that's waterproof like silverboard. Yes they would be taped.
This house wrap is an inferior product it can be installed wrong so easily cut or damaged and can easily be holding water in then keeping it out. Look for something that bonds to a substrate and look into using rain screens.
isn't foam board a vapor barrier? I already have a vapor barrier inside the insulation (directly under my sheet rock) and it would not be good to have a vapor barrier on both sides of the insulation.
@@Sylvan_dB it depends on the insulation board. Some is closed cell, some is open cell. Open cell allows moisture through (and I suspect some air) where closed cell is supposed to be water and air tight. Tyvek has to be installed with their logo out. The way its designed, it is a one way membrane. Water moves from the plain side to the printed side only.
You should post on Rumble...I know you are a Canadian and not to be political but TH-cam is screwing up big time if you have an American audience. You probably won't lose many viewers but people are moving over.
![[ TEASER ] เงาะป่า - วงL.กฮ. | TMG RECORD](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/M4ObdFfcPww/mqdefault.jpg)
When I was building homes wrapping was a step we never missed.
When we built my mom's house 30 years ago we used a combination of wrapping and taping every sq in of the home, 2×6 exterior walls, batt, spray and ridgid board. The best windows available at that time, a truck load of caulking, silent floor system, etc. It was built to a super insulated home spec. Which created some other issues to address. Air quality and moisture being the two biggest.
I swear you can heat it with a candle and cool it with a cup of ice. Air exchanger with the air to air system, not sure how all of that worked but we had to bring in fresh air and vent moisture.
It's 30 yo and still tight as a drum.
When the HVAC system went out a few years ago it was a eye opener at the cost to replace and upgrade.
Thanks for another great video brother.
Very interesting. How did you address the moisture and air quality issues?
@@cerealkilla4eva
As I mentioned, the HVAC system used a air exchange filtering system using outside air. Basically it exchanges stale indoor with fresh outside air. I know it has a Dehumidifier built into the system and I could be wrong but I'm thinking it has the ability to also add humidity for winter time dry air.
Thank you SO MUCH for not only making this info available, but easy to understand. I'm disabled & I don't have a ton of money or a very big circle, so knowing how to do stuff on my own is A HUGE DEAL. Thank you for making this info accessible. 🥺🙏💖
Agreed. I spend my days lately watching your videos…I love them. And it reminds me of being a little girl and just sitting and watching my Dad doing this kind of stuff to our houses. Good times. Although, I am your age Jeff.
Starting on year 2 of total exterior renovation. Didn’t get the siding on last year so I have spent the whole winter with Tyvek on my house. Use cap nails if you are in a windy area! Still left to finish: replace half the windows, finish second half of roof, soffit, fascia, add foam insulation, move electrical meter, cap windows and doors, then siding … it’s a lot of work, but hoping I can finish by the fall of 2023.
When we had our home resided two years ago we had them use the Tyvek wrinkle wrap. It creates drainage channels behind the siding. We resided with James Hardie plank, so we didn’t want the potential for the boards to hold any water behind them. The contractor used a weaved nylon wrap as standard that is neither air nor waterproof. So it was worth it to me to pay the premium for the upgraded product.
I appreciate all your effort! I don't see a whole lot of info that help challenges of fixing the exterior old an old brick house. Window sills, morter repair, redirecting water to prevent bricks from being continuously saturated.
I have a house built in 1956 and I really need all that info. It's my first home and I'm learning everything the hard way. I'd appreciate a video that touches on all the things you listed.
You need a mason. Depending on the age of the house, you may even need a mason familiar with historical bricks and mortar.
@@YellowBunchofBananas Are you sure I neeed to be a Mason? lol. I'd love to learn a few tricks but I DIY'd pointing some brick and did a fine job.
One could also say I need to be a plumber, Electrician, Carpenter. But can the working man actually afford these skilled trades? I'm handy enough that I can follow instructions and achieve results.
@@jasonfitzgerald6334 Not saying you can't DIY it; my point was more that what you were asking about was masonry work and not carpentry like in most of Jeff's exterior videos. If you want to take it on, depending on the age of the house, I would do some research before getting started to make sure I chose the right materials etc.. The hard part with old brick houses is that some of the home centre mortar etc. isn't always the right stuff to use since mortar mixes have changed over the years to suit things like changes in brick.
I ONCE GAVE some ultralight hikers a ride to the start of a 250km hike, and as a gift, they gave me a sheet of Tyvek and told me it makes a great groundsheet under your tent, to keep it dry. They were right - plus it's durable as hell and light as anything.
ZIP sheathing provides the same protection as OSB+Tyvek. One step, instead of multiple product costs, steps+labor costs. Also, easier to tape off and eliminate tiny holes in the ZIP, as opposed to Tyvek.
Zip sheathing is made of osb . Osb is vapor retarded material. Who would want to put it on outside of a wall in a cold climate? Not Canadians that for sure
Straight from Jeff Epsteins Island ! Bill Gates admits (after making 550000000 dollars) that mRNA vaccines are crap lol. He states that they can fix all the problems with the vaccines by making it INTO a mouth wash XD. I am sure he will make another 500 mil on human stupidity until he calls the spray crap and moved onto a majic lazer beam that coats the earth WITH THE CURE! All from the mouth of the guy who basically funded and hyped the mRNA transfections. I am sure wingnut Pierre Poilievre and trudeau are more than willing to tow the line of "just a college dropout' hehehe
Much more expensive though in almost every situation because the labor to put on tyvek isn’t a huge amount of time for a skilled group. But it’s also better as long as the people know how to hang it, tape the seams, and seal the fastener penetrations for the bottom 3 ft or so
If you're replacing the sheathing, sure. Zip is the way to go. If you don't have to then a house wrap is next best and more cost effective
ZIP is not the answer for everything. It's osb for one, not as permeable as most house wrap, and there isn't a positive overlap so you are completely relying on the tape and those installing it...
Your absolutely right about the house wrap. I'm in Brampton, there's a bunch of new subdivisions always being built here. I'm used to seeing white house wrap on them. These days they have tar paper covering the osb.
material prices going up, housing market cooling down... builders cutting corners and costs wherever possible
Years ago, I replaced T11 siding. Nothing was under it. I used the heavy tar/felt paper left over from roof. Walls were much warmer in winter/cooler in summer. House had no moisture issues.
I thought I was going to have to do finish work on walls. I watched your videos very carefully - I took notes. I even bought the tools. But I was stuck doing stud framing an insulation on an attic or whatever you want to call that 32" space between the top roof and the ceiling lo of a top unit on a 4rth floor.
I did no nagg or said anything. When I was done I sheetrock the whole place
Sadly to say though, I never got to use my hawk, tapping knives, or anything else I brought. They're still there for if some new thing project arises.
You are a swell instructor. Bless your heart
DIY tip: If you have some left over Tyvek, save it for the next time you go camping. It makes a fantastic ground cover below your tent. Ditto if you are backpacking and it's very light to carry.
Is it a pretty close to one time use product for an under tent tarp?
Good tip!
Hi Jeff. Hope all the family is well.
I'm ready to put up T1-11 and almost forgot about the house wrap!!!!
Almost 20 years ago when I built on to this house I used 30 pound roofing felt and 6 mil plastic. Felt over the plywood then plastic over that. Wish I'd know about Tyvek back then. It's sealed up but I have mold that forms on the outside vinyl. I think that's why. Inside it's fine. I have plenty of air flow with the HVAC unit and don't have an issue indoors. But, that vinyl siding molds constantly now. At least no water will penetrate into the plywood and walls. Just no air goes back out now.
@James Karrie No, I have the blue bi fold foam insulation. It was one of my first tries as building something and I was cheap...lol.
I also use an epoxy paint for the lower 2-3 feet of my house build. Since we have a lot of snow
crazy 😎. We just visited the US and were highly curious, why you wrap your houses - outside!!!
It is the complete opposite philosophy of what we do around here 😅.
For the common understanding, people say that the "breathable" vapor barrier must be as close to the inside as possible to avoid humidity to reach the dew point.
High diffusion resistance at the inner side, low resistance at the outer side.
As you do it, it is absolutely quick and cheap. For sure, the most important thing is to avoid convection.
To do it from the inside is the better way according to physics but it is a massive effort and extremely sensitive to damage.
They put air pressure into the building and measure the loss over time. If it is too much, some people have a lot of work to make it air tight afterwards. Find the whole in the wall... .
I am afraid, many of the new houses will not last long and have extremely expensive repair costs.
The first plumber or electrician to change something will destroy the air barrier and if he doesn`t make it air tight again - what happens - you have a house that is damaged in the construction after plenty years.
We can heat a new house in Germany for 300-600€ per year. But it costs at least twice of what you pay in the US.
Although Energy is so much more expensive here, the high costs for super duper insulation will hardly ever pay off.
But that is due to green politics, so only upper class people can afford a new house meanwhile.
Question....if tivek will allow humidity to leave your house. Will it also allow humidity to enter your house from outside?
Is there any benefit to peel and stick house wrap? Is a vapor barrier like Matt Risinger uses, a bad idea for older houses? (1950s house with asbestos tile)
That depends upon your climate. In the south you can have a vapor closed system on the exterior of the house. In the north you cannot. The vapor closed system goes on the “warm side”. To keep any condensation in an area where it can dry to the warm area. I.E. I live in Minnesota, we use a vapor barrier on the inside since over 50% of the year we heat the house. Any condensation would hit right behind the drywall and can dry “in” in the south a primary cooling zone that condensation potential is kept to the other side of a wall so it needs to dry to the outside.
The main “benefit” is no need to tape the overlapping joints of the wrap as the adhesive does that job. The downside, cost!
Thanks Kory. I’m in New York City, so not Minnesota cold, but we do have winters. It isn’t Texas.
Do you normally install it horizontally or vertically? How much does it effect the integrity of you cut smaller sheets as opposed to installing in the longest strips that you can?
I had to do a small job covering a storage area under a second story deck that the previous owner didn’t finish. I did it horizontally starting from the bottom and wrapped three sides in one piece. I wasn’t sure how bad cutting it would be and it was relatively small job so I dealt with it but would have been a lot easier to do in in smaller pieces especially when the breeze kicked up.
Its typically done horizontally, starting from the bottom - as you did - so that it overlaps. Always try and keep the pieces as complete as possible. Less seams.
You did a good job 👍. Yes, wind and construction jobs can be a real challenge.
Jeff, I’m looking at redoing my siding this summer. 1970’s construction in the Appalachians. I know I need a house wrap, I was previously set on Zip-R, but that’s too cost prohibitive to redo all my sheathing as well. Now I’m curious about doing a 1” exterior foam board. I want a continuous envelope on my walls due to 2x4 framing and our frequency to drop in the 10-20*F territory in the winter.
Any recommendations on exterior insulation + house wrap assemblies?
Oh, and swapping out those wood framed double hung sliders while I’m at it, your tips combining that with siding is saving me more than a few thousand bucks
Step 1: Remove the siding from your old house
Step 2: Wait, my old house is all brick
Step 3: Remove all the brick 🤣
@@UnexpectedTokens Right?? I saw Jeff's brick background and got all excited. But instead, I've gotta figure out why rainwater comes in when the wind blows, despite not seeing any obvious problems with the brick or flashing.
I may need to redo house wrap and siding without being able to afford to replace windows. If I do that, will there be a way to later replace windows without damaging the relatively newer siding and house wrap, and will the house wrap then maintain its effectiveness?
ohhh this is gold... Our house was built in the 1970's so I am pretty much 100% certain we do not have such a thing... they probably did not even use any type of wrap in those days... just wood/drywall... The problem we have is our home is all cedar planks, so it would be a ton of work to remove each board and then put them back in the exact same way they were aligned because no two pieces are alike.
Can the house wrap be installed directly to my shed framed walls and then put sheathing on top of wrap?
Thank you for sharing your knowledge
Help. I'm purchasing a TuffShed and finishing it out as a tiny cottage in Phoenix, AZ. I asked the rep why he marked that I would not be insulating it. He said so I will receive the radiant barrier which will help keep the shed cooler. Otherwise, I'd only get house wrap. What are your thoughts? 🤷🏽
@HOMERENO.... what would be any major different between aluminum siding v.s vinyl siding? I have an older house with aluminum siding.. and was planning on redoing the siding.. didn't know if I should keep with the aluminum siding style... or switch it to vinyl which is cheaper obviously.. but yeah.. I wanted to add the tyvek house wrap... and wasn't sure if I should switch the siding material? I appreciate any thoughts.. pro's and cons... thank you sir
I am also curious as my house has aluminum siding.
I just bought a brand new house. How can I know if house wrap was used w/o taking of some of the vinyl siding? Enjoy your videos.
I'd bet they used it, its standard on new homes
@@bobbygargari1252 Good to know. Thanks.
Pale = Bucket- for us UK folks
Coll! Now let’s hear about cement brick siding vs clay brick.
Great Video, thank you sir!!
the appearance and sound of this Tyvec is very different than other house wraps I've seen, which were more like a light mesh tarpaulin.
I have structural brick, so this is not an option for me, but I do still need to solve some major heat loss.
So, I live in Las Vegas. It’s definitely windy here, no problems with that except windows rattling. But my problem is heat. The house, especially upstairs is miserable! I know that I need to get my attic insulated, and ducts sealed, biz it’s built in 1974, but would that work for heat too? The tyvek. I was told to use it in a bedroom with a vaulted ceiling to keep the heat down..that room is miserable!!
And I’m low on funds…but when I can redo the siding…would that help with the heat?
R-value is the measure of a materials thermal resistance. Insulations, both rigid and batt have known R-values, OSB even has a small amount, but Air-Barrier’s have zero. You are correct when you say air barriers can help reduce heat loss, but they accomplish this by spanning and covering gaps in the framing and sheathing. These holes would be a source of heated air leaving your building, drafts if you will. To be clear, Tyvek does not ´add R-value ‘
@James Karrie Which is exactly what I said. A hole is leaking air, the Tyvek blocks the hole, therefore you lose no heat due to leakage. We do not measure this loss of heat in "R-values"
What about if the Tyvek is ripped and stapled back together? The new $650k house up the hill sat for months last winter without siding and the tyvek got ripped to shreds by the wind. They didn't rewrap it, just stapled the flaps down.
Great video! Just checking on the Lowes website... The Lowes house wrap vs Tyvek is 1/2 the price. Any clue why?
Great video thanks
The double Play Button flex? Brother, just get some flowers or something lol
We need to remove our siding and put OSB on the exterior. Right now it's some kind of drywall material and it's wet and crumbling. We discovered this during interior renovations last year. I'm afraid of what that is going to cost.
Jeff has got a few episodes of siding in his lists. It doesn't appear to be that difficult, its the trim work that I dread. I am looking at a bunch of projects for my home too, that's one of them.
How much R value can i add to the total R when using house wrap ? Thanks !!! :)
live in Arkansas (hot/humid) going to build, going to use 2" dense board foam insulation on exterior of every wall and roof; still need "wrap"? if so, what brand?
Jeff, I have a block home in Florida. We have single pane windows which we will be replacing. We seem to get a lot of moisture coming up through the slab. Could this be used under the carpet padding to prevent water coming up through the slab?
Is it necessary to use house wrap on block structures?
Since ERV are now code a house needs to dry to the inside. Be mindful of the dewpoint you create with cavity walls and materials
My house is 100 years old - you can see the wind blow the curtains inside. I've been thinking of stripping the shingles and then using the zip system over the random board sheathing that's under the shingles (i'm not sure that tyvek would be enough with all the gaps). or would it be better to just put up normal osb and then wrap it?
Why contractors don't spray insulation on external wall surface before adding the sidings
My house was built in the late 60s/early 70s. We did some renovation and found that the builder used drywall. Found a lot of rotted and broken pieces. There’s no way to wrap the house without removing all the brick and starting over.
Which is better Tyvek or Kimberly Clark block it
I wanna use garbage bags but you sir change my mind those house wraps cost roof paper too
thoughts on Zip Sheathing?
zip would be the much better long term choice.
House wrap over osb is bare minimum.
Zip with the barrier integrated would be the next level.
Foam board over osb would be the better than zip but needs more time to install.
All need taping at all seams for proper seal.
I wish this answer was easier to find, but maybe one of you will know. Do you put the house wrap over or under your rigid foam? Thanks!
Over the top If rigid foam is on exterior walls. You could also put rigid foam inside the walls between studs or under wall paneling.
Would lack of a house wrap cause leaks resulting to drywall water damage and stains in first floor ceiling of a multi-story house? Would it be the reason for drywall damage around the inside window opening?
Not the reason or cause off but helps to prevent such things.
Will 2 layers of tyvek for siding a goog idea?
I have a 100+ year house with great original siding. I’ve started pulling the plaster out and will be adding more insulation to what was retro fitted in the 90s. What can be done for air barrier from the inside? I’ll be installing a vapor barrier prior to drywall
@James Karrie thanks! I was almost thinking of cutting the house wrap up and taping it into each stud, just to slow any air movement. But that’s a lot of tape haha
@James Karrie think your onto something haha. I’ve watched a few of your home remodel and that’s why I’m asking you!!! Thanks for all your advice. I Had not thought of painting the stud bays. Thanks!
That’s the big disadvantage of an all brick exterior. Tough to replace windows DIY and impractical to remove the exterior to add insulation.
When did they start using this in home construction?
Late 70s / early 80s
Depends on which part of the country you live in... I started seeing it in the south in the mid-ninties in my area. The latest system they are using is the green osb-membrane system : zip. They install the panels, then tape all the joints, and openings to work like tyvek and obs.
Sounds like damproofing instead of waterproofing. How does this work if you are applying CIM as per code isn't there a conflict ?
This video is one reason to use zip system sheathing 😊
Good application methods for this? Staples, roofing nails?
staples are just fine, but after you staple, you need to seal that penetration.
How does it let water vapour through when it's water tight?
Those u-tube signs that you display, I only recently found out by accident what they mean, so I'm sure most viewers don't know. I'll go now and create more accounts so you can earn the third one quicker for that empty shelf you have prepared.
Tar paper/JumboTex
I wouldn’t feel the comment section complete without mentioning stucco/rock/cement and grade D building paper
😂
I’m a big fan of Jeff’s work and know how much he has worked to not rely on be sponsored by products to be unbiased.
Even with all that, it’s hard to shake the feeling that this reminds me of a product sponsorship. I think they were trying to make something short and sweet for the algorithm and better reach an audience 🤷♂️
And???
I think it may have just been an easy way to get a video together.
@@KN-jw7ts I don't have a problem with creators being sponsored to support themselves/family. If they do it and don't disclose it, that's when it feels off. I'm not saying that is what Jeff is doing. I'm just explaining my concern from how this can be perceived.
@@YellowBunchofBananas that's what I'm thinking too. Maybe the other thing that the me off is that it feels abnormal (not the right season for working on house wrap, not related to the current basement project). It feels out of place like some creators do for a random sponsorship. I don't think Jeff is doing this to be clear
Driving around vancouver today its been snowing and raining and i see many new build houses with no wrap at all . Its terrible
Hmm, air barriers are required by code.
How can you update a brick house that had a draft issue?
remove the casing around the windows and see if the gaps are spray foamed.
Hi Jeff, "house wrap" is cheap, but the Perfect wrap is Not Typar or Tyvek, because as you have shown, it Holds water. All the latest building science, not opinion, has well shown, a water vapor permeable membrane is the correct product. These are designed to let water vapor from the inside of your house to pass through to the exterior, but not let water from the exterior get in. Yes, they are a One way vapor directional barrier, and definitely more expensive, but they will not allow moisture to condensate in your walls. Building science has also shown, 6mil poly is another terrible product, because it also does not allow your house to breathe. With new codes pushing for more insulation, and wanting to have houses tighter and tighter, the mold and complaints of bad internal air is Not because the houses are too tight, it is because the air is trapped.
The proper membranes allow it to breathe in a correct and controlled manor. If you are going to use typar or tyvek, then, my "opinion" would be to overlap joints by more than 4", maybe 12", and not tape the overlap but staple. This "might allow moisture or vapor that is inside the walls to exit, but greatly reduce air flow.
Again, the last part about the overlapping joints is my "opinion, but the other is the recent and current science.
Regards,
I have a question I have what looks to be like a thick sheet rock with black paper. Somebody told me you can’t wrap that. What should I use on that? Thanks.
I am not sure what that material is, but you might be better to remove it completely as part of the residing project. Then use exterior osb/plywood on the framing, tyvek, then side the house. But Jeff has a membership that for a few dollars a month, he will help you answer all your construction challenges.
Nathan must be nice to have 150K to liquidate The rest of us are living check to check
If you have a home built on piers with an open crawl space underneath, what about wrapping underneath to keep pests out? Dumb idea?
I have a drinking game, every time I hear the word system, I close the mother flipping video and piss off to the pub. "System"... growl
The demonstration didn't show me how the tyvek is all that different from just plastic sheeting which is just as waterproof. How about showing how vapors can pass through?
Could anyone confirm if this could be done with stucco ?
Sure, but you will need to put up something that the stucco can stick to and support its weight. Metal lath is the most common. In many area’s you see stucco homes built with EPS foam used as the WRB with the lath on top of that and then the stucco.
Edit: I believe that asphalt impregnated paper (kind of like what you see on your roof) is the most common WRB with stucco because it seals around all the lath penetrations better when it gets damp.
It needs to be behind the stucco. I believe when they stucco they build a gap between it and the actual exterior sheet good, so water (vapor) can escape, and not rot the obs/plywood that they attach the lath too.
@@JimYeats Thanks for the detailed reply!
@@denisegaylord382 Understood, thanks!
If you're putting 2" foam up under the siding can you omit this?
Hmmm. Good question... Are the panels closed cell or open cell insulation board? you taping the seams between the insulation panels?
@@denisegaylord382 The product I've been looking at is open cell but with a coating on both sides that's waterproof like silverboard. Yes they would be taped.
👍🏽
I just cover my house with epoxy
those 600 year old european homes couldn't have survived without tyvek champs
Did you have a fight with your son again
This house wrap is an inferior product it can be installed wrong so easily cut or damaged and can easily be holding water in then keeping it out. Look for something that bonds to a substrate and look into using rain screens.
Throw the house wrap away. Continuous foam board insulation directly under the siding.
That is an and, not an or.
I disagree, no reason for house wrap with continuous foam insulation
This needs Be a Man quote.
isn't foam board a vapor barrier? I already have a vapor barrier inside the insulation (directly under my sheet rock) and it would not be good to have a vapor barrier on both sides of the insulation.
@@Sylvan_dB it depends on the insulation board. Some is closed cell, some is open cell. Open cell allows moisture through (and I suspect some air) where closed cell is supposed to be water and air tight. Tyvek has to be installed with their logo out. The way its designed, it is a one way membrane. Water moves from the plain side to the printed side only.
You should post on Rumble...I know you are a Canadian and not to be political but TH-cam is screwing up big time if you have an American audience. You probably won't lose many viewers but people are moving over.
I don’t believe you!
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Just kidding, just wanted your attention to say thank you a million times over for everything you do! 🤜
Imagine living in a country where covering your house in gift wrapping paper is considered an upgrade.
knew is was a RHINO