Nice job! Got any photos or video of them mounted up after cure on the clear? I have a cerakote operation set up at home as well and I'm thinking about doing something very similar. Although I might mix Burnt Bronze with Gold and clear it with high gloss clear MC156.
@@mattpoirot2492 thanks man if u race i would recommend putting clear vinyl on them once there on thats what i did and it helped protect then from roost
@@Chris05STi1982 cerakote required 250-300 but ive had the oven at 400 i don’t think it would be the best for powder coating but not sure honestly what powder requires
Nope just open up the clamps more with a plastic wedge and i also used clear vinyl to protect them from roost got about 15 rides on them ..not a mark gonna do a review video on how the cerakote held up on the whole bike after a season stay tuned for it !
i have the same issue, i have just scraped all the corrosion off. ALL of it. its left a few flat spots on the outer forks. so maybe not a good idea to hit any massive jumps. i then lightly sanded them, degreased them with degreaser, washed thoroughly with water, then wiped down with isopropyl alcohol. waited until properly dry. masked them off so i didnt have to remove them from the bike and painted them with etch prmer. looking good so far. also i only removed the anodizing where the corrosion was, and the damage is behind the front number plate so the paint should be protected from flying rocks etc. if i were to do it again i would warm the paint and forks a bit first, i was in a hurry and forgot. i only did this yesterday so i dont know how well it will work, but the etch primer said it was good for bare aluminium and looking online the consensus was you can paint anodizing with etch primer. i will do a nice metallic top coat, but since its behind the number plate, it shouldnt matter too much what it looks like, as long as it stops the galvanic corrosion. if i hadnt done this i reckon that corrosion would have eaten through enough metal within the next few years to make these forks throwaways. its strange i couldnt find anything online about anyone doing a similar cheap repair. all i could find was people with similar problems that either replaced their forks entirely or paid a shop to strip them and re-anodize them.
old color is anodize? Can you anodize to other color?
Nice job! Got any photos or video of them mounted up after cure on the clear? I have a cerakote operation set up at home as well and I'm thinking about doing something very similar. Although I might mix Burnt Bronze with Gold and clear it with high gloss clear MC156.
far back on the page there is a video i think
th-cam.com/video/rp1ta__jzq8/w-d-xo.html
@@SIX1NINEGUITARSANDGEAR Perfect! Thanks! That looks great! I'm going for just a shade lighter so I'll mix in some gold and I should be good.
@@mattpoirot2492 thanks man if u race i would recommend putting clear vinyl on them once there on thats what i did and it helped protect then from roost
Great idea man I was thinking the same thing thanks for sharing I just subbed
After you cerakoted the fork tubes in the burnt bronze did you use cerakote clear for the clear coat?
Yes it was the air cure clear coat
wow, want to do this on mine! please what materials did you used? can i get them on amazon?
Its cerakote look it up they have starter kits and directions on what ud need
@@SIX1NINEGUITARSANDGEAR thank you, looks awesome
cerakote H series, V series or C series?
Looks great. What media did you use to blast the anodizing off?
Fine- medium grit aluminum oxide media
Is this powder coating or paint?
Cerakote its a super durable ceramic coating
Is that CERAKOTE clear coat or regular automotive clear ??
Thanks
Sup bro, you ever consider offering cerakote services for peoples parts before? I know I got some parts I'd like to get coated.
It was a buisness at one point and then i had to shut down the buisness after a year for personal reasons i do plan on doing it agian in the future.
@SIX1NINEGUITARSANDGEAR if you start it up, I would like to get some parts done. Thanks
You have à Link for your oven plz?
www.lowes.com/pd/Masterbuilt-John-McLemore-Signature-Series-536-3-sq-in-Black-Electric-Smoker/1000386191
@@SIX1NINEGUITARSANDGEAR Thanks man ! In France it’s very hard to find a oven for coating
Nice job! How hot can that oven get up to?
@@Chris05STi1982 cerakote required 250-300 but ive had the oven at 400 i don’t think it would be the best for powder coating but not sure honestly what powder requires
@@SIX1NINEGUITARSANDGEAR 400 degrees for powder coating on my last run! How hot can that electric smoker get up to?
Any trouble getting them to fit back into the triple clamps? Did it damage the clear?
Nope just open up the clamps more with a plastic wedge and i also used clear vinyl to protect them from roost got about 15 rides on them ..not a mark gonna do a review video on how the cerakote held up on the whole bike after a season stay tuned for it !
Any questions lmk im here to help
@@SIX1NINEGUITARSANDGEAR how did it hold up?
@@evanmays5021 perfectly i ran suspensions decals for protection but even in the spots that were open it was fine after a whole season
When was the clear coat Applied ?
After i baked the bronze on so i applied clear soon after if your using airdry base then u have to wait 7 days before you clear
What was the code for cerakote clear ?
How are they holding up?
Not one mark on them .. i put clear vinyl on them to protect then from roost and its been perfect
@@SIX1NINEGUITARSANDGEAR awesome! Thanks for the quick reply!
@@gabrieldean9559 you got it !
Cómo se llama el color quiero aser mi suspensión así
I think its burnt bronze
Hi man, my forks are the same than your's, but they are gettin corroded in some areas, do you think that sandblast them should help and stop it?
The outer tubes ?
@@SIX1NINEGUITARSANDGEAR Yes
@@erwinmontero9067 i wouldn’t sand blast them unless u plan on coating that cause they will corrode more with out the anodising
i have the same issue, i have just scraped all the corrosion off. ALL of it. its left a few flat spots on the outer forks. so maybe not a good idea to hit any massive jumps. i then lightly sanded them, degreased them with degreaser, washed thoroughly with water, then wiped down with isopropyl alcohol. waited until properly dry. masked them off so i didnt have to remove them from the bike and painted them with etch prmer. looking good so far. also i only removed the anodizing where the corrosion was, and the damage is behind the front number plate so the paint should be protected from flying rocks etc.
if i were to do it again i would warm the paint and forks a bit first, i was in a hurry and forgot.
i only did this yesterday so i dont know how well it will work, but the etch primer said it was good for bare aluminium and looking online the consensus was you can paint anodizing with etch primer.
i will do a nice metallic top coat, but since its behind the number plate, it shouldnt matter too much what it looks like, as long as it stops the galvanic corrosion. if i hadnt done this i reckon that corrosion would have eaten through enough metal within the next few years to make these forks throwaways.
its strange i couldnt find anything online about anyone doing a similar cheap repair. all i could find was people with similar problems that either replaced their forks entirely or paid a shop to strip them and re-anodize them.
What clear did you use?
Cerakotes air dry matte clear
Its still wasnt set up in the video so it looked a little glossy but it did turn more of a semi gloss / matte finish after its 5-7 day full cure
@@SIX1NINEGUITARSANDGEAR you said you cleared them I thought you used automotive clear