Big fan of your video's. I don't think anyone else has as many as you! I just commented on someone else's video, about an issue mine had when I bought it from a local guy. I will post here: I bought my 2003 FX140 with water in the oil.......a marina mechanic said it was the head gasket......I've been turning wrenches since I was 10, this was NOT a head gasket issue, because the spark plugs didn't show evidence. HOWEVER, the coolant outlet pipe at the front of the valve cover, had started bypassing water through the o-ring, and forced it into the cavity under the valve cover grommet. Thus, dead heading pressure to the valve cover gasket, and it was going UNDER it! Because, old cover gaskets get harder than a high school boy at a strip club! I had to clean the o-ring bore in the cylinder head, and use a super quality silicone rubber (mostly used in the engines of big rigs) to seal the outlet pipe with a new o-ring. I left the grommet out of the valve cover, and then drilled a hole in the valve cover area where they capped off the REAR plug of the cylinder head, on the REAR of the engine. Many people don't know there is another on the rear....but Yamaha DID IN FACT use this engine originally in the R1 motorcycle (which is one of my adrenaline fav's!!) and capped off the other water outlet that they used on the street bike cooling systems.... I don't remember if I made a video on my channel about it or not. BUT I only paid $600 for the ski, and got a DOUBLE trailer out of it!!! I have since wrapped it in a sweet decal, and installed a BOSS stereo with Rockford drivers.
Awesome 👌 sounds like a rewarding repair right there . Yes very accurate the r1 motor and the mr1 are the same. I love these motors .thank you for your positive feedback and comment .
I wanted to tell you that I figured out that the oil seal in my oil pump was sloppy. I compared to a cast off pump housing from my spare parts and there was play on the spindle. Thought I'd share that and thank you for responding to my last comment. Even though it didn't solve my issue I still really appreciated the time and your response. Take care!
Thanks for the videos. Much appreciated. I have a question you might be able to help me with. I got a fxho I bought with a rebuilt engine by previous owner. He fired it up and said it keep going off on low oil pressure. So I decided to sell it. I got it and it ran but definitely had low oil pressure. I removed the engine and disassembled the bottom end journal clearance was in tolerance as well as the rod's did see that the oring was missing so I got one reassembled it rebuilt the oil pump and no oil pressure at all. Before I removed it I had a little pressure at the pressure switch. Now nothing. Any info would be awesome
Great video. I have to assemble my motor as soon as I have all the parts together. Do you know if the head studs are re-usable, the Service Manual does not call out those bolts/studs anywhere.
Hi ,The sealant that i used on the crank is grey and i did not display adhering of sealant in this video . The oil clearances has been checked prior to the build ,the crank has been cleaned and inspected also so that the bearings used match perfectly before assembly . this particular engine has already done over a hundred hours to date after the rebuild . in order to keep the video not too long we have left out some basics of course and this is a look see into such a build
Wish you would have showed how to torque the head and set the cams. That to me is the confusing part on mine. We did a head gasket change now 3 out of the 4 cylinders don't have compression. It ran before so im assuming I messed up putting the head gasket on
@@River_Rat280 I doubt that the SBT gasket would cause that problem . Is there rust in the head ? I know the valves get rusty and it shows almost no compression. Timing wouldn’t make three out of four cylinders lose compression. Before disassembling again pour a little bit of oil in each cylinder like a table spoon 🥄 of oil . Give it a crank and then Che I compression again .
@@Redrockat I'll try that. My dad painted that copper gasket on it he uses it on everything. Probably should have put it on dry. The engine only has 40 hours on it but the water jackets between the cylinders was full of salty residue that we had to dig out. That's the reason we popped the head. Is number 1 cylinder by the oil tank or timing chain ? Thanks for your help btw
@@River_Rat280 cylinder nr 1 is at the timing chain side . The gasket does not need anything and should be used as is . The copper gasket product should not be used it fails after some time flaking and blocks everything . Let me know how it goes .
Do you mind me asking who’s rebuild kit did you use? Also did you put a micrometer on the journals and a piston dial bore gauge to measure piston to wall clearance?
Dont know if this will get answered.. I am rebuilding a 2006 vx110.the rod caps got moved around and dont know which way they go on rhe rod. Each cap is still with the correct rod. The caps have 2 bumps or 2 dimples. Do these face the timing chain or the other way? The manual shows numbers to line up but mine are worn off. Thanks
These are “cracked caps “ so caps to rods are easy . We have seen the Rods all face one direction and we have seen Rods all face the other direction . As long as they all face the same direction you will be okay .
generally after failure do these engines prove reliable if they are rebuilt with new oem parts and to spec with what the manual says about torquing, degreeing etc? Been hearing some horror stories on the web lately.
Yes depending on what the condition of your original bearings are . Yamaha bearings are colour coded depending on small size differences . So we always measure and make for a perfect fit .
what was the engine failure?i have the same with 140hrs and i'm thinking to put a set camshafts from the r1 engine...will it fit?the motor can take this upgrade?
This fx160 mr1 motor has already high lift cam shafts and they are also specific to marine torque and output in real world environment . The Yamaha R1 🏍 super bike cam won’t work .
Can you help me verify that there is supposed to be a rubber o ring on the spindle of the MR1 oil pump? I don't see one in the oil pump that I have dismantled, but it is shown in the manual and I see it in the oil pump rebuild kits. I placed the oil o ring in the case, but I am getting an oil alarm, and I am thinking this is the problem. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
Laz Martinez thank you for the comment , I did not show that exact procedure because it might make the video too long. Thanks for watching , I will make a dedicated video on how to set the timing perfectly on a later stage
You can get most everything here. pwcparts.com/ But I also most of the parts I needed besides the main and rod bearing cheaper through Amazon or eBay. I hope this helps.
@@Redrockat is that video out there yet? I'm not finding it and I'm about to install the head. It would be great to watch your video on setting the timing chain and cams before I install. Thanks.
Greg Frederick we have not yet made such a video . The timing is straight forward and remember to compensate for dwell zone so that you may get it spot on and harvest rpm and torque
hola, no confío en los productos sbt ya que hemos tenido algunos problemas con ellos aquí en mi país. Prefiero comprar un motor Yamaha de segunda mano y usar ese bloque como núcleo. Ya hemos reconstruido estos motores con gran éxito. ¿Qué le pasa a tu bloque?
David Garner yes it matters they have a specific way of going in . The thread is the same on both sides though . The shorter thread goes into block and the longer thread obviously gets the nut to keep the head in place .
Rik Miles how boring would it be if I make a hour long video showing all the bolts being locktite and flanges being sealant administered lol and measurements taken etc
@@Redrockat but you did show all the time struggling with the piston rod circlips and they are not really that hard to install. Someone watching this needs to know there are manual specs and tolerances for every contact point. Not checking those is a huge waste of time and money. It seems you could mention the various lock-tight types that are called for at each point. But the Yamaha Service manual lists those... So for everyone else planning to do this, better get a copy of the Yamaha Service guide so you know how to determine which bearings to use where. Most of the bolts are not straight torque values. But rather ##ft.lb torque plus ##degrees turn. Nice video. But don't do it this way without getting all the specific details first.
Greg Frederick I only show how it's done on a basic level and did not want to bore people with an hour long detailed video . The c clips are not easy to install at all hey and I chose to not do a retake of an easy c clip install to show that there is difficulty in the process . This engine is still running well today btw with no problems at all 😊 it is used for a fishing ski in the ocean .
Big fan of your video's. I don't think anyone else has as many as you! I just commented on someone else's video, about an issue mine had when I bought it from a local guy. I will post here:
I bought my 2003 FX140 with water in the oil.......a marina mechanic said it was the head gasket......I've been turning wrenches since I was 10, this was NOT a head gasket issue, because the spark plugs didn't show evidence. HOWEVER, the coolant outlet pipe at the front of the valve cover, had started bypassing water through the o-ring, and forced it into the cavity under the valve cover grommet. Thus, dead heading pressure to the valve cover gasket, and it was going UNDER it! Because, old cover gaskets get harder than a high school boy at a strip club! I had to clean the o-ring bore in the cylinder head, and use a super quality silicone rubber (mostly used in the engines of big rigs) to seal the outlet pipe with a new o-ring. I left the grommet out of the valve cover, and then drilled a hole in the valve cover area where they capped off the REAR plug of the cylinder head, on the REAR of the engine. Many people don't know there is another on the rear....but Yamaha DID IN FACT use this engine originally in the R1 motorcycle (which is one of my adrenaline fav's!!) and capped off the other water outlet that they used on the street bike cooling systems.... I don't remember if I made a video on my channel about it or not. BUT I only paid $600 for the ski, and got a DOUBLE trailer out of it!!! I have since wrapped it in a sweet decal, and installed a BOSS stereo with Rockford drivers.
Awesome 👌 sounds like a rewarding repair right there . Yes very accurate the r1 motor and the mr1 are the same. I love these motors .thank you for your positive feedback and comment .
I wanted to tell you that I figured out that the oil seal in my oil pump was sloppy. I compared to a cast off pump housing from my spare parts and there was play on the spindle. Thought I'd share that and thank you for responding to my last comment. Even though it didn't solve my issue I still really appreciated the time and your response. Take care!
Awesome thank you , so did the pressure loss come from the lose spindle ?
@@Redrockat yeah. Lose gap with the oil seal in the oil pump.
Thanks for the videos. Much appreciated. I have a question you might be able to help me with. I got a fxho I bought with a rebuilt engine by previous owner. He fired it up and said it keep going off on low oil pressure. So I decided to sell it. I got it and it ran but definitely had low oil pressure. I removed the engine and disassembled the bottom end journal clearance was in tolerance as well as the rod's did see that the oring was missing so I got one reassembled it rebuilt the oil pump and no oil pressure at all. Before I removed it I had a little pressure at the pressure switch. Now nothing. Any info would be awesome
Hello my friend I want to thank you very much. Your video helped me a lot.
Dmitry Doe awesome 😊
Great video. I have to assemble my motor as soon as I have all the parts together. Do you know if the head studs are re-usable, the Service Manual does not call out those bolts/studs anywhere.
All the head studs are reuse-able yes . Change out the Con-rod bolts and nuts though . Thank you for watching and commenting 👍
Just curious as to why you didn't check oil clearances between the main and connecting rod bearing and why you didn't seal the crank halves.
Hi ,The sealant that i used on the crank is grey and i did not display adhering of sealant in this video . The oil clearances has been checked prior to the build ,the crank has been cleaned and inspected also so that the bearings used match perfectly before assembly . this particular engine has already done over a hundred hours to date after the rebuild . in order to keep the video not too long we have left out some basics of course and this is a look see into such a build
When you put the reduction drive gear on. Is there a dowl that goes between the oil drive gear and the crankcase? Just assembling one of these now
Cody Richardson I don’t see any pin or dowl on the specified parts list
Wish you would have showed how to torque the head and set the cams. That to me is the confusing part on mine. We did a head gasket change now 3 out of the 4 cylinders don't have compression. It ran before so im assuming I messed up putting the head gasket on
Did you use a oem head gasket ? Always make sure that you didn’t get something caught between the head and the gasket like for example wires .
@@Redrockat it wasn't Oem that's probably part of the problem. It was a SBT , I'm going to order a Oem gasket and pull it back down.
@@River_Rat280 I doubt that the SBT gasket would cause that problem . Is there rust in the head ? I know the valves get rusty and it shows almost no compression. Timing wouldn’t make three out of four cylinders lose compression. Before disassembling again pour a little bit of oil in each cylinder like a table spoon 🥄 of oil . Give it a crank and then Che I compression again .
@@Redrockat I'll try that. My dad painted that copper gasket on it he uses it on everything. Probably should have put it on dry. The engine only has 40 hours on it but the water jackets between the cylinders was full of salty residue that we had to dig out. That's the reason we popped the head. Is number 1 cylinder by the oil tank or timing chain ? Thanks for your help btw
@@River_Rat280 cylinder nr 1 is at the timing chain side . The gasket does not need anything and should be used as is . The copper gasket product should not be used it fails after some time flaking and blocks everything . Let me know how it goes .
When mounting the crankshaft with pistons and tightening the crankcase, the crankshaft can be turned by hand or with a wrench?
You would need a strong hand hey but it should turn then . It is difficult though .
Do you mind me asking who’s rebuild kit did you use? Also did you put a micrometer on the journals and a piston dial bore gauge to measure piston to wall clearance?
We usually use a combination of Yamaha OEM parts with WSM parts depending what we are changing out .
Dont know if this will get answered.. I am rebuilding a 2006 vx110.the rod caps got moved around and dont know which way they go on rhe rod. Each cap is still with the correct rod. The caps have 2 bumps or 2 dimples. Do these face the timing chain or the other way? The manual shows numbers to line up but mine are worn off. Thanks
These are “cracked caps “ so caps to rods are easy . We have seen the Rods all face one direction and we have seen Rods all face the other direction . As long as they all face the same direction you will be okay .
generally after failure do these engines prove reliable if they are rebuilt with new oem parts and to spec with what the manual says about torquing, degreeing etc? Been hearing some horror stories on the web lately.
Wonderful video god bless you
Aiden Jafeth thank you 😊
I have a mr1 2008 in my 2008 ar230 if I decide to rebuild question can I just order stock bearing for rods and crank
Rich
Yes depending on what the condition of your original bearings are . Yamaha bearings are colour coded depending on small size differences . So we always measure and make for a perfect fit .
what was the engine failure?i have the same with 140hrs and i'm thinking to put a set camshafts from the r1 engine...will it fit?the motor can take this upgrade?
This fx160 mr1 motor has already high lift cam shafts and they are also specific to marine torque and output in real world environment . The Yamaha R1 🏍 super bike cam won’t work .
What type of sealant do you use to seal the 2 haves of the block
Jimmy Buchanan you may use a good RTV Silicone Sealant . We use the Loctite Products it’s easily available and high standard .
Can you help me verify that there is supposed to be a rubber o ring on the spindle of the MR1 oil pump? I don't see one in the oil pump that I have dismantled, but it is shown in the manual and I see it in the oil pump rebuild kits. I placed the oil o ring in the case, but I am getting an oil alarm, and I am thinking this is the problem. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
What year model and model is your yamaha that you working on ?
@@Redrockat 2002 fx140
@@biorcgis6383 okay let me check and get back to you .
Good video but why you didn't show who to put in the timing chain
Laz Martinez thank you for the comment , I did not show that exact procedure because it might make the video too long. Thanks for watching , I will make a dedicated video on how to set the timing perfectly on a later stage
Where did you get all the parts for this build?
RivaMotorsport ☝️
hello, how are you, could you tell me the valve light that takes in intake and exhaust! thanks .
I am well thanks and hope that you are also doing great . I will check the valve hight clearance and get back to you .
@@Redrockat okey .thanks
Hi,i want to do the same as you, but can't find a website where to order the overhaul. Please can you tell me where you find the parts?
+Jc Perez you can buy the parts at any Yamaha Marine Dealer .
You can get most everything here. pwcparts.com/ But I also most of the parts I needed besides the main and rod bearing cheaper through Amazon or eBay.
I hope this helps.
Hello, I wass just wondering if you could detail how to set the timing chain.
Thanks!
+Samuel Matthews I will make a detailed video for you next time we build another motor :)
Redrockat let me know also cause im working on my own right now and i wanna do it the right way like you did thank you so much
Anthony Gonzalez ok
@@Redrockat is that video out there yet? I'm not finding it and I'm about to install the head. It would be great to watch your video on setting the timing chain and cams before I install. Thanks.
Greg Frederick we have not yet made such a video . The timing is straight forward and remember to compensate for dwell zone so that you may get it spot on and harvest rpm and torque
Mi motor está siniestro, estoy pensando en comprar un motor long block nuevo de la marca sbt.
Conoces si esos motores funcionan bien???
hola, no confío en los productos sbt ya que hemos tenido algunos problemas con ellos aquí en mi país. Prefiero comprar un motor Yamaha de segunda mano y usar ese bloque como núcleo. Ya hemos reconstruido estos motores con gran éxito. ¿Qué le pasa a tu bloque?
I have a problem with the main bearings of the crankshaft, it is too tight and I don't know how to choose the colors.
You have to let a engineering works measure it for you with there inside and outside micrometers and they will choose the correct colours for you .
Cool Sound 18:07 . Thanks
Cool Bro :)
Thank for made it!!
Is everything new?
+Jorge Batista Yes
Can you supply a link so this video can be downloaded please?
David Garner unfortunately that is no longer possible ,just click on the save off line function .
Redrockat quick question. The head boats seem to have two different ends as far as thread length. Does it matter which way they go?
David Garner yes it matters they have a specific way of going in . The thread is the same on both sides though . The shorter thread goes into block and the longer thread obviously gets the nut to keep the head in place .
Redrockat thanks. Trying this for the first time and don't wanna screw up
O meu jet ski e sho 2011 quanto custa a emgrenajem. vc tem?
English ?
Где купить б\у такой двигатель??
+ Igor You Can Buy the Engine From Riva Racing in Florida USA and have it shipped out to were you are :)
How much will contract the engine?
you will have to ask the guys at Riva Racing for the price because the prices vary
My God...don't they make a circlip tool for that?
+MrShadyfish these are c-clips without "eyes" ,and this is how its done .
Very little lube on all bearings and no protection on the big ends to prevent scoring or scratching of the bores, you need more assembly care.
The big ends never touch the critical points and I used lots of Lube ☺😊one should take care yes but still it's not too fragile
bullshit, you are just one of the broke-ass crazy people
7:05 he did dab oil on critical parts. You nickers need to show some appreciation for him putting up this video or go fuk ur self
Sounds horrible
Too many mistakes , sealant missing, lock tite missing, all bearing clearance, camshaft clearance, connecting rod ...wow what a mess
Rik Miles how boring would it be if I make a hour long video showing all the bolts being locktite and flanges being sealant administered lol and measurements taken etc
Redrockat how I know timing mark on it
Redrockat too many children watching this video and whining when they don’t see what they read in their coloring books.
@@Redrockat but you did show all the time struggling with the piston rod circlips and they are not really that hard to install. Someone watching this needs to know there are manual specs and tolerances for every contact point. Not checking those is a huge waste of time and money. It seems you could mention the various lock-tight types that are called for at each point. But the Yamaha Service manual lists those... So for everyone else planning to do this, better get a copy of the Yamaha Service guide so you know how to determine which bearings to use where. Most of the bolts are not straight torque values. But rather ##ft.lb torque plus ##degrees turn. Nice video. But don't do it this way without getting all the specific details first.
Greg Frederick I only show how it's done on a basic level and did not want to bore people with an hour long detailed video . The c clips are not easy to install at all hey and I chose to not do a retake of an easy c clip install to show that there is difficulty in the process . This engine is still running well today btw with no problems at all 😊 it is used for a fishing ski in the ocean .
Bare hands, goodbye!